Thank you so much for explaining all this and showing the chart. I just got a cargo e-bike, 52 teeth on the front, and finding that I am “over pedaling” when the motor assist is set to its lowest setting. The assist will only go up to 17mph / 27kmh in this mode. I am getting to about 14mph / 22kmh and start spinning out. Thinking of trying a 56 tooth and see what I get. I know I will lose some gearing if the battery actually dies on me, but if I can assist in moving the bike better, thinking I can get some longer battery life. Going to look now and see if you have anything on swapping out a single for a two or three ring, and need to check the bike to see if it can take it. Great job here.
Thanks for the info, I think you answered my question on should I change the crankset for my Aventon Level, It came with a 170mm 46T crankset gear, and a 12-32T 8 speed cassette in the back. I live in FL so no hills and use my bike as a cummuter, but I run out of usability of the pedals after about 23 MPH (37 KPH), my legs cannot go any faster. May try out a 52T as i just want a little more useability of the full transmission and more top speed, i start in 6th gear and never really go lower than that since there are not hills.
Sounds like a good plan. The other benefit is that with a larger chainring at the front you can use the gears in the middle of the cassette which will improve your chainline efficiency and make you go faster!
I have a mountain bike with a 1x 11 11 to 52 tooth cassette that I'm using to commute I'm finding that the top speed is just to low at a max of about 42km what size chainring do you think would improve my top speed without destroying the hill climbing abilities to much as i do live in a very hilly area
A challenging question about bicycles. I love cycling and I understand you do to. I’m currently riding a steel frame Bridgestone. Beautiful bike. This bike has a top speed of about 46km/h on a flat clean windless road. I understand that the rear wheel gains angular momentum as its velocity increases up to a point where the required force to increase velocity is outpaced by the resistance force of the angular momentum of the spinning wheel. I can produce a maximum 1200 watts of leg drive and at 46km/h this amount of power is insufficient to increase the speed of the bike. To be clear at 46km/h I am still at a reasonable cadence so adding additional leg drive is not an issue. I know that if I get a lighter wheel/tire system for the bike I can reduce the angular momentum of the system and therefore increase the speed of the bike. But I have not found any studies that show how much speed improvement I can expect by reducing the weight of the wheel/tire system. In order to do a proper cost benefit analysis on how much I should spend on a new rear wheel, I need to know the calculation for, weight equals how much angular momentum. If we assume an average strong male cyclist can produce max sprint 1000 watts then we should be able to rate wheel/tire systems by speed. No? My second question here is how much if any does the overall weight of the bike contribute to angular momentum force on the rear axle? Do I need to reduce the overall weight of the bike if I only care about max sprint speed? Does the front wheel weight contribute anything to the resistance force of angular momentum at the rear axle? I feel like the front wheel and bike don’t contribute much to this analysis. I’m not at all worried about friction or wind because my leg drive is insane 😂 due to a ton of deadlifting. But when that rear wheel hits its angular momentum threshold, no amount of leg drive is going to increase the speed of the bike. I hope that makes sense, the ideas are clear enough in my mind but I’m not sure I’ve expressed them clearly here. I know you like cycling and I know you have the brain to analyze this question. I live in saigon and lack Human Resources and technological resources to find an answer to this question. But I thought if you found the question interesting you might have the people and tech around you to find the answer. Or perhaps you already know.
I won't pretend to be smart enough to actually comment on your questions, but dude, at 1200w you should be able to absolutely smoke me on pretty much any bike, yet I've maxed out at 58km/h on my 49x16 geared track bike out on a flat road. I haven't ridden with a power meter, but I know I don't come close to a 1200w peak, so are you sure there aren't other factors that keep you from going faster?
I want to make my chainrings cheaper. When Shimano moved to 4 arm 110 BCD, the chainrings became very sophisticated 3D and expensive. I am not sure whether to move back to my 130BCD 5 arm for which there are lots of cheaper 130bcd flat chainrings. Or, should I try a cheap flat/solid 110 BCD chainring. Litepro makes one which can be used on both 4 and 5 arm cranks.
Hi, l am touring using a triple crank, would it be possible to build my own crank using an osymetyric 55 chainring for speed, then add a lower tooth chainring for climbing?
Wonderful.. I Need to upgrade my Scott Aspect 930 .. 10 x 2 gear system ... Shimano Deore ... front chainrings are 26 and 36T. Is a 36 T and 48 T combo available for this and from where ?
What is the maximum number of teeth a chain-ring can have? is there a rule that the maximum size of chain-ring at an international event is 55T? or is it up to you? is a double or triple o-symetrical chrainring possible? Is there a specific training method for o-symetrical chainring? I mean the way you time it while swifting from inner to outer chainring how long did it take you to get used to it?
Your top speed wouldn’t be that fast as a 11-40 isn’t a huge gear. The problem of having one chainring at the front means it’s difficult to have the best of everything
I've got an e mtb which I struggle to pedal above 25mph, I'd like to be able to pedal it up to around 35mph, can I get a 3 stage chainring set to do that while maintaining the ability to tackle hills?
35mph is seriously quick which most top Time Trial riders only really hit for a consistent period of time. They generally use 58/60 tooth chainrings which I don’t believe would fit on a mtb due to clearance issues.
@@thebikecatalogue9476 Thanks for the info, my bike has a 1000w motor assisting up to around 30-35mph, after 25mph I struggle to assist the motor. I will definitely upgrade my chainring set to whatever is possible. I didn't understand the gearing gains until I watched your video. Thanks
The optimal speed is based upon All assuming the driven road wheel is the size you’ve not told us... Modern bicycle wheels, old bicycle wheels can be of all sizes... It’s the overall ratio from the crank sprocket, through the rear wheel sprocket AND the diameter of the rear tyre... Point of note..it’s not a bolt circle diameter, it’s a Pitch circle diameter.
What it means is that for the same gear on your cassette it will be harder than what you are already on if it is smaller than 53. So say you have a 11-30 cassette, using the 53 -30 would be harder than the 50 - 30. But on the other hand, having the 53 will mean when in the 11t sprocket on the cassette you will be able to push the pedals harder than a 50 - 11.
@@thebikecatalogue9476 and one more thing, is it possible to climb with 50t chainring? Because I've Triban Rc100 which comes with 7 speed and 44t front chainring only! and for performance I'll get 50t chainring but, at the same time I think it's gonna get really tough to ride only with 50t at front. What's your suggestion? Should I get a front chainring or a new group set like Sora because I don't have none, it has Tourney. What's your take
@@Auto_India0 it would be significantly harder to climb with a 50T instead of the 44T you currently use but if you feel like you are strong enough and need harder gears then buying a larger chainring is useful
Plz answer my question I am going to buy marlin 6(trek) thats 1x drivetrain but thats really low teeth Can i upgrade it to a bigger chain ring for more teeth Bcz i will ride more onroad than off.. PLZ REPLY🙁
The Marlin bike is a mountain bike and so the requirements of chainring sizes are very different to road cycling chainrings. I've not covered the mountain bike ranges in this video, apologies.
Hi Sir, I am currently on a 38T(NW) Oval Chainring mated to a Deore 10 Speed, 11-36 RD(Long Cage) for abt 2 yrs, I actually upgraded it from a 34T NW Oval as well as it is too slow for me, I don’t do trails with my bike but only mostly on pavement, occasionally road and asphalt. Problem with my current 38T is that I hardly uses the smallest and the 2nd smallest cog even when going downslope or on flats as I find it too hard to pedal. But times when I’m pedalling at a constant speed on flats, very seldom I will even use the smallest cog to cruise. Should I change down to a 36T NW Oval? Also, I am afraid it will slow down my speed! I will need and appreciate your best opinion PLEASE.🙏🏻Thank you
Cluld some one please call me and give advice I have Highland 27 speed mountain bike I want to put figure chain ring on the big gear maybe a 52 or 53T how do I get correct size
I have 52 chaing ring, I absolutely can not use my smallest cog, i wanna downsize to 42 or 44 and be able to use my smallest cog, i enjoy spinning more than grinding
Just switched from 50/34 to a 46/30. It's made a big difference in on the bike comfort for me. My rides are twice weekly at 35-40 miles each. Happy with the switch and don't miss the larger rings. 68yo male
i'm riding a cannondale caad12 ultegra with 52t chainring and using favero assioma duo. (1) if i switch to an oval chainring, will it any impact on the power reading on my favero? (2) if i opt for a 55t rotor round chainring, will there be space to fit without affecting the derailluer? pls clarify
Hyy Bro I own a semi fat bike in which I have set 6-speed gears it's been a year now and I go for long rides which makes me difficult bcoz of less gearing ratio so I have decided to change my front chain ring to a Narrow wide chain ring it is possible to do this?? And it will make my peddling smooth?? Plzz reply sir or anyone who knows the answer
Hi there. The narrow wide chain ring is made for a bike that runs just one chainring. The narrow wide profile of the teeth make it less likely for the chain to fall off. It will make no difference to your pedalling experience
Manufacturer says max size of 34t. I understand that with more teeth the circumference grows. Does anybody make spacers or anything of the sort to get around this?
Great explanation!. Have a gravel bike GRX 40T crankset. With 11-42 cassette. Like to upgrade it to GRX 42T to 11-42 cassette. Will this make it bit faster? How much faster? Keep it up thank you.
Hi there. If you check what type of cranks you have (Shimano 4 bolt/5 bolt, Sram, Microshift) you will then be able to find out what Bolt Circle Diameter chainring you require. Most companies which sell chainrings should clearly show which chainrings work for different types of crank arm brands
In the road bike world a 50 is probably one of the smaller sizes you would come across. I appreciate MTB and Cross riders use much smaller but I didn’t really want to go down that route for this video! Your point is valid though!
@@greveeen appreciate the SRAM AXS stuff comes in with 46t rings and smaller for gravel set ups. But I was trying to take a very simplistic and broad approach to most set ups. Shimano still dominate the bike market and 50t is one of their smallest offerings on the road
@@thebikecatalogue9476 Ha ha I thought that might be for some reason when I said that . There is a nice little climb at Pondsworthy if you cross the little stream and go up the back lane to the moor if you have not found it. Very nice video by the way Thanks for it . Did thing about trying oval rings.
Hi there, I have rewatched the video and haven't heard my error. I don't know whether it is my accent that has caused any confusion over what I am saying. Apologies if I didn't make it clearer or if I did just miss my error
You have explained Chainrings in an easy and understandable way.
Yes, I subscribed. GCN couldn't explain it as easy as you did. 👍
Thank you for the info!
Your 50-52-53 tooth comparison is exactly what I was looking for!
Watching this again, have had a couple weeks to digest things and almost ready for a switch.
And done.
42T up from a 36T and waaaaaay better cadence at top end, no longer whipping through my pedals.
Among the best explanations of chainrings anywhere. Gets to the point, easy and stays at it. Fantastic work.
I’ve just done a service on a friends British Eagle mountain bike. It has a 4 by front chainring, never seen one before, or even knew they existed
Thank you so much for explaining all this and showing the chart. I just got a cargo e-bike, 52 teeth on the front, and finding that I am “over pedaling” when the motor assist is set to its lowest setting. The assist will only go up to 17mph / 27kmh in this mode. I am getting to about 14mph / 22kmh and start spinning out. Thinking of trying a 56 tooth and see what I get. I know I will lose some gearing if the battery actually dies on me, but if I can assist in moving the bike better, thinking I can get some longer battery life. Going to look now and see if you have anything on swapping out a single for a two or three ring, and need to check the bike to see if it can take it. Great job here.
Thanks for the info, I think you answered my question on should I change the crankset for my Aventon Level, It came with a 170mm 46T crankset gear, and a 12-32T 8 speed cassette in the back. I live in FL so no hills and use my bike as a cummuter, but I run out of usability of the pedals after about 23 MPH (37 KPH), my legs cannot go any faster. May try out a 52T as i just want a little more useability of the full transmission and more top speed, i start in 6th gear and never really go lower than that since there are not hills.
Sounds like a good plan. The other benefit is that with a larger chainring at the front you can use the gears in the middle of the cassette which will improve your chainline efficiency and make you go faster!
Did you improve in travel range since it creates more torque on spinning and save battery power?
I have a mountain bike with a 1x 11 11 to 52 tooth cassette that I'm using to commute I'm finding that the top speed is just to low at a max of about 42km what size chainring do you think would improve my top speed without destroying the hill climbing abilities to much as i do live in a very hilly area
i am in love with 50 and 46t chainrings. 46t is easier and feels better for a city.
quick question. after changing my chainring 34T to a 36T. do I need to change anything with the chain or gears?
Excellent explanation! Thank you.
A challenging question about bicycles. I love cycling and I understand you do to. I’m currently riding a steel frame Bridgestone. Beautiful bike. This bike has a top speed of about 46km/h on a flat clean windless road. I understand that the rear wheel gains angular momentum as its velocity increases up to a point where the required force to increase velocity is outpaced by the resistance force of the angular momentum of the spinning wheel. I can produce a maximum 1200 watts of leg drive and at 46km/h this amount of power is insufficient to increase the speed of the bike. To be clear at 46km/h I am still at a reasonable cadence so adding additional leg drive is not an issue. I know that if I get a lighter wheel/tire system for the bike I can reduce the angular momentum of the system and therefore increase the speed of the bike. But I have not found any studies that show how much speed improvement I can expect by reducing the weight of the wheel/tire system. In order to do a proper cost benefit analysis on how much I should spend on a new rear wheel, I need to know the calculation for, weight equals how much angular momentum. If we assume an average strong male cyclist can produce max sprint 1000 watts then we should be able to rate wheel/tire systems by speed. No?
My second question here is how much if any does the overall weight of the bike contribute to angular momentum force on the rear axle? Do I need to reduce the overall weight of the bike if I only care about max sprint speed? Does the front wheel weight contribute anything to the resistance force of angular momentum at the rear axle? I feel like the front wheel and bike don’t contribute much to this analysis. I’m not at all worried about friction or wind because my leg drive is insane 😂 due to a ton of deadlifting. But when that rear wheel hits its angular momentum threshold, no amount of leg drive is going to increase the speed of the bike.
I hope that makes sense, the ideas are clear enough in my mind but I’m not sure I’ve expressed them clearly here. I know you like cycling and I know you have the brain to analyze this question. I live in saigon and lack Human Resources and technological resources to find an answer to this question. But I thought if you found the question interesting you might have the people and tech around you to find the answer. Or perhaps you already know.
I won't pretend to be smart enough to actually comment on your questions, but dude, at 1200w you should be able to absolutely smoke me on pretty much any bike, yet I've maxed out at 58km/h on my 49x16 geared track bike out on a flat road. I haven't ridden with a power meter, but I know I don't come close to a 1200w peak, so are you sure there aren't other factors that keep you from going faster?
Chasing the crank is a real issue on an Hand Cycle. I am trying to upgrade from a mere 9 gears to a Single chainring so more Teeth makes real sense.
Succinct!
Lots'a love, cheers, & Mabuhay, from your 290th subscriber from tropical Philippines! #KeepBiking
Thanks!
I want to make my chainrings cheaper. When Shimano moved to 4 arm 110 BCD, the chainrings became very sophisticated 3D and expensive. I am not sure whether to move back to my 130BCD 5 arm for which there are lots of cheaper 130bcd flat chainrings. Or, should I try a cheap flat/solid 110 BCD chainring. Litepro makes one which can be used on both 4 and 5 arm cranks.
The newer Shimano ones are quite light, but brands like rotor offer quite good prices for all BCD sizes
Thanks a lot for this simple and clear video!
Hi, l am touring using a triple crank, would it be possible to build my own crank using an osymetyric 55 chainring for speed, then add a lower tooth chainring for climbing?
How do you calculate the speed based on chainring/cassette/wheel size/cadence?
There are lots of calculators online which do this for you!
I had a 50t chainring it was so hard but good once I got it going lol
Wonderful..
I Need to upgrade my Scott Aspect 930 .. 10 x 2 gear system ... Shimano Deore ... front chainrings are 26 and 36T.
Is a 36 T and 48 T combo available for this and from where ?
I would suggest talking to your local bike shop as they will be able to assist with ordering your exact chainrings required
What is the maximum number of teeth a chain-ring can have?
is there a rule that the maximum size of chain-ring at an international event is 55T? or is it up to you?
is a double or triple o-symetrical chrainring possible?
Is there a specific training method for o-symetrical chainring? I mean the way you time it while swifting from inner to outer chainring
how long did it take you to get used to it?
Can anyone help me please.
Would a Single 40T front chainring and 11-40T cassette be ok for hill climbing and and going fast?
Thank you
Your top speed wouldn’t be that fast as a 11-40 isn’t a huge gear. The problem of having one chainring at the front means it’s difficult to have the best of everything
I've got an e mtb which I struggle to pedal above 25mph, I'd like to be able to pedal it up to around 35mph, can I get a 3 stage chainring set to do that while maintaining the ability to tackle hills?
35mph is seriously quick which most top Time Trial riders only really hit for a consistent period of time. They generally use 58/60 tooth chainrings which I don’t believe would fit on a mtb due to clearance issues.
@@thebikecatalogue9476 Thanks for the info, my bike has a 1000w motor assisting up to around 30-35mph, after 25mph I struggle to assist the motor. I will definitely upgrade my chainring set to whatever is possible. I didn't understand the gearing gains until I watched your video. Thanks
@@ricardosmythe2548 I’m lost omgggg helpppp me please! My 30 tooth is poop on my new bike!!!!🥺
Hi im currently running 50t on my roadie can i upgrade to a 54t ?
Yes, you should be able to
48/32t is compatible to 11/32t? For climb
The optimal speed is based upon All assuming the driven road wheel is the size you’ve not told us...
Modern bicycle wheels, old bicycle wheels can be of all sizes...
It’s the overall ratio from the crank sprocket, through the rear wheel sprocket AND the diameter of the rear tyre...
Point of note..it’s not a bolt circle diameter, it’s a Pitch circle diameter.
Using the Cateye Wheel Circumference calculator web page, it appears he used a tyre width of approximately 26mm (assuming 700c wheels)
Need someone to help me with my 60/46/32 mountain bike project. Not sure of Front derailer that can take the range
Im new to biking mod and upgrades. Just wanna ask if its ok to have a 42-32-22 crankset on a 7 speed? and if a 42-34-24 crankset on an 8 speed? Thanks
I was hoping to learn about tooth spacing and mounting for replacement chainrings. Denied
Is 53t chainring too hard to ride? Or is it manageable
What it means is that for the same gear on your cassette it will be harder than what you are already on if it is smaller than 53. So say you have a 11-30 cassette, using the 53 -30 would be harder than the 50 - 30. But on the other hand, having the 53 will mean when in the 11t sprocket on the cassette you will be able to push the pedals harder than a 50 - 11.
@@thebikecatalogue9476 Thanks :)
@@thebikecatalogue9476 and one more thing, is it possible to climb with 50t chainring? Because I've Triban Rc100 which comes with 7 speed and 44t front chainring only! and for performance I'll get 50t chainring but, at the same time I think it's gonna get really tough to ride only with 50t at front. What's your suggestion? Should I get a front chainring or a new group set like Sora because I don't have none, it has Tourney. What's your take
@@Auto_India0 it would be significantly harder to climb with a 50T instead of the 44T you currently use but if you feel like you are strong enough and need harder gears then buying a larger chainring is useful
@@thebikecatalogue9476 Is it possible to win races like States and Nationals with 44t front chainring and 7 speed at the rear? 1×7 system
Wonderfully explained, clear and concise. I'm a novice cyclist.
What do you call a chainring that is directly mounted at i think bottom bracket or the right crank arm? My bike is a classic track bike by Miyata.
Plz answer my question
I am going to buy marlin 6(trek) thats 1x drivetrain but thats really low teeth
Can i upgrade it to a bigger chain ring for more teeth
Bcz i will ride more onroad than off..
PLZ REPLY🙁
The Marlin bike is a mountain bike and so the requirements of chainring sizes are very different to road cycling chainrings. I've not covered the mountain bike ranges in this video, apologies.
@@thebikecatalogue9476 is there any option for make bike faster?
Hi Sir, I am currently on a 38T(NW) Oval Chainring mated to a Deore 10 Speed, 11-36 RD(Long Cage) for abt 2 yrs, I actually upgraded it from a 34T NW Oval as well as it is too slow for me, I don’t do trails with my bike but only mostly on pavement, occasionally road and asphalt. Problem with my current 38T is that I hardly uses the smallest and the 2nd smallest cog even when going downslope or on flats as I find it too hard to pedal. But times when I’m pedalling at a constant speed on flats, very seldom I will even use the smallest cog to cruise. Should I change down to a 36T NW Oval? Also, I am afraid it will slow down my speed! I will need and appreciate your best opinion PLEASE.🙏🏻Thank you
Cluld some one please call me and give advice I have Highland 27 speed mountain bike I want to put figure chain ring on the big gear maybe a 52 or 53T how do I get correct size
I have 52 chaing ring, I absolutely can not use my smallest cog, i wanna downsize to 42 or 44 and be able to use my smallest cog, i enjoy spinning more than grinding
Just switched from 50/34 to a 46/30. It's made a big difference in on the bike comfort for me. My rides are twice weekly at 35-40 miles each. Happy with the switch and don't miss the larger rings.
68yo male
I have a middrive 750w bbs motor 42 teeth are too few...moving to 55
i'm riding a cannondale caad12 ultegra with 52t chainring and using favero assioma duo. (1) if i switch to an oval chainring, will it any impact on the power reading on my favero? (2) if i opt for a 55t rotor round chainring, will there be space to fit without affecting the derailluer? pls clarify
I don’t believe the faveros have any oval compensation so your data may be impacted making it incorrect.
I don’t know on that specific bike if you can fit a 55t chainring. Apologies
@@thebikecatalogue9476 thanks for your info
Hyy Bro I own a semi fat bike in which I have set 6-speed gears it's been a year now and I go for long rides which makes me difficult bcoz of less gearing ratio so I have decided to change my front chain ring to a Narrow wide chain ring it is possible to do this?? And it will make my peddling smooth??
Plzz reply sir or anyone who knows the answer
Hi there. The narrow wide chain ring is made for a bike that runs just one chainring. The narrow wide profile of the teeth make it less likely for the chain to fall off. It will make no difference to your pedalling experience
Manufacturer says max size of 34t. I understand that with more teeth the circumference grows. Does anybody make spacers or anything of the sort to get around this?
Any cheap 54 (or bigger chainring) for ultegra r8000? The original costs 100 euro. This is ridiculus.
Drive at speed downhill to keep in contact with bike cycle not be passenger, sure it's the oval or the hey fever mixture in a brown bag
Great explanation!. Have a gravel bike GRX 40T crankset. With 11-42 cassette. Like to upgrade it to GRX 42T to 11-42 cassette. Will this make it bit faster? How much faster?
Keep it up thank you.
@bikee hi thanks!
The larger the faster, up to a point, the smaller, the slower, but easier to pedal.
I got 34T :( even when I pedal harder I don't go further
I searched a lot for 60-62 tooth chainrings for my triban500 can you tell me where can i get these types of chainrings ??
Hi there. If you check what type of cranks you have (Shimano 4 bolt/5 bolt, Sram, Microshift) you will then be able to find out what Bolt Circle Diameter chainring you require. Most companies which sell chainrings should clearly show which chainrings work for different types of crank arm brands
There are 58 teeth chainrings on AliExpress. Why would you need one that big?
You should name this video 52t chainring explanation...
Thanks for this vid :0)
48T ideal 54T is good
First comment 😁keep it up👍
50t is hard and 32 is easy but i chpse 50t bcuz of speeed😌
All the gear no idea springs to mind.
"different chainrings do different things" at that point by BS detector went off , a chainring , no matter what , does exactly the same thing
Helpppp?
i have a hard time understanding the british accent sometimes, good content though
Noice
A 50 is small? Really?
In the road bike world a 50 is probably one of the smaller sizes you would come across. I appreciate MTB and Cross riders use much smaller but I didn’t really want to go down that route for this video! Your point is valid though!
@@thebikecatalogue9476 still, the 50 is small?
@@greveeen appreciate the SRAM AXS stuff comes in with 46t rings and smaller for gravel set ups. But I was trying to take a very simplistic and broad approach to most set ups. Shimano still dominate the bike market and 50t is one of their smallest offerings on the road
30 lmao 30!!!! 30 I HAVE! WTF! With a 53 fit on or be necessary on my trek procaliber 9.5! 48? 50? I’m lost
@@McRemmyBaby this video is specific to road bikes and not mountain bike chainrings which are very differnt
Ha ha keep it in the 50 t big chainring while you spin up the hills you don't Live in Devon then or you are a pro with legs of steel
Devon is home so unfortunately I know the joys of trying to get around Dartmoor only too well
@@thebikecatalogue9476 Ha ha I thought that might be for some reason when I said that . There is a nice little climb at Pondsworthy if you cross the little stream and go up the back lane to the moor if you have not found it. Very nice video by the way Thanks for it . Did thing about trying oval rings.
Have you listened to yourself? You mix up number of tooth quite a lot, you talked about compact and repeatedly say it has 52 tooth !!!!
Hi there, I have rewatched the video and haven't heard my error. I don't know whether it is my accent that has caused any confusion over what I am saying. Apologies if I didn't make it clearer or if I did just miss my error