You need to check further. The stator support seals have nothing to do with the 3-4 clutch. There is 0 pressure there until the manual lever is shifted to reverse. Start with #7 check capsule and then the 3rd accumulator seals in the servo. Also, hard to see but are you using a torx PLUS socket on the bellhousing bolts?
Agreed, but when I checked everything else, didn't find an issue. I will clarify that in a follow up video. And yes, that is a TP50 bit I was using. The socket was worn out. I've since replaced it. Again, some things will be clarified in the next video.
@@IrocinZ That is good because in this video, you didn't remove the servo and check that. Pressure checks before the trans was removed would have been helpful.
@@skutahuniai4830 I had to remove the servo in the rebuild video and that's when I checked it. Also, he just brought it to me, i didn't actually diagnose it other than what he told me with the TECH2 and driveability. He is a fellow tech and this is his sons truck. Stay tuned for follow-ups. Still editing...
Hi Smitty,good you are back,looks like you need a new (Torq Plus) driver socket,when old used a lot bolts,or even new bolts with wrong driver is used on these bolts,they can be a royal pain in the rear end to get out inside that bell housing,I agree with you on the air hammer!I like to use an extension on the socket and smack it into each one with a hammer to make sure it is seated into bolt head good,you dont have much material in the bolt to make a mistake with,they arent deep enough,bad designed bolts!
Yep, and the new design is even worse in my book. I've since replaced the socket, but I'll go back to breaking them loose by hand. Thanks for watching!
@@IrocinZ I'm getting into rebuilding 4l60's and I'm finding I have alot of ones I'm scratching my head at. To bad you didn't live close by you could use all the reamers I have and also got the sonnax pressure tester too lol. I bought all this so I can fix all my own junk. Buddy wants me to learn good enough so I can fix all of his too LOL. Seems all my vehicles have these transmissions in them and I'm constantly dealing with these going out after a while after I bought them so I decided to start fixing them myself. Just trying to learn everything I can. I usually can fix anything else but these are tricky when starting out but I will learn them good enough
@@DS-Turbo I still learn things and I've been rebuilding for 20 years! I don't attest to know everything and I make mistakes too. If you have one that fails, go thru it and find out why and Don't count it as a loss, but a learn, that way you don't do it again. As far as the reamers are concerned, it's more cost effective to get a valvebody from Sonnax than to buy the reamers, imo.
@@IrocinZ kinda how I'm doing it just going with the flow and watching a bunch of videos and I've definitely made a bunch of mistakes already. As for the reamers I am a tool horder lol and like to have everything so if I have a fail I can tear it apart and fix it then and now and not wait for the parts to come in. Hope to see some interesting videos from you.
Could you just mig weld a nut to the stuck bolt head as is done with the exhaust manifold bolts in aluminum ls heads? Seems like it would be easier than a chisel and at least as controllable. And bolt will have to be replaced anyway. Or are the bolts made from a metal that does not easily weld?
Great video, no one likes a come-back so kudos for showing us the cause. What would cause the seal to blow out, and could you use a high pressure Teflon seal so it does not happen again?
This is to explain the question below,I had a front seal blow due to bad oil pump shift bearings,finally got that problem solved but now I don't have 3-4 gears,it's like they just disappeared,1-2,and reverse no problem,so what's wrong ,can it be fixed without dropping the trans ??
Mr Smitty, I have a question, what would cause Stacked shifting in a 4l60e or 4L65E . Goes threw all 4 gears before 25 mph. Out of a 2004 Tahoe with 5.3L .
Are you familiar with Hp tuners? I have data logs. I fucked up man. touching to many tables . The computer is commanding the shifts. It just stays in first. No it doesn't matter if it's part or wot .
Please delete those damn load release Springs. I know the installed them to help with a momentary bind up on 3-2 downshift. 32 downshift is way less common than burnt 3/4 clutches.
They are also there to prevent high speed clutch burn from hydraulic fluid coupling. I install them in all my builds and have never had an issue. Even my personal ones. It's a builders preference to what they like but GM put them there for a reason....
Drill them out , it works so much better . Those bolts are soft .
I'd rather get them out in one piece
Thanks for jumping on it and getting it back on the road. Great job.
You bet!
Great work. Thanks for jumping on it and getting it back on the road
Welcome!
You need to check further. The stator support seals have nothing to do with the 3-4 clutch. There is 0 pressure there until the manual lever is shifted to reverse. Start with #7 check capsule and then the 3rd accumulator seals in the servo. Also, hard to see but are you using a torx PLUS socket on the bellhousing bolts?
Agreed, but when I checked everything else, didn't find an issue. I will clarify that in a follow up video. And yes, that is a TP50 bit I was using. The socket was worn out. I've since replaced it. Again, some things will be clarified in the next video.
@@IrocinZ That is good because in this video, you didn't remove the servo and check that. Pressure checks before the trans was removed would have been helpful.
@@skutahuniai4830 I had to remove the servo in the rebuild video and that's when I checked it. Also, he just brought it to me, i didn't actually diagnose it other than what he told me with the TECH2 and driveability. He is a fellow tech and this is his sons truck. Stay tuned for follow-ups. Still editing...
Hey Smitty! Good video Appreciate it for showing us this video you’re the best
No problem! Thanks for watching!
SWEET!!!
Thanks brother!
the music is awesome 👍👍👍🔥
Thanks...lol
Hi Smitty,good you are back,looks like you need a new (Torq Plus) driver socket,when old used a lot bolts,or even new bolts with wrong driver is used on these bolts,they can be a royal pain in the rear end to get out inside that bell housing,I agree with you on the air hammer!I like to use an extension on the socket and smack it into each one with a hammer to make sure it is seated into bolt head good,you dont have much material in the bolt to make a mistake with,they arent deep enough,bad designed bolts!
Yep, and the new design is even worse in my book. I've since replaced the socket, but I'll go back to breaking them loose by hand. Thanks for watching!
Good video. Great that it was easy to find the problem
Yep, you always feel better when you find a cause. Its the ones that leave you scratching your head that I don't like...lol
@@IrocinZ I'm getting into rebuilding 4l60's and I'm finding I have alot of ones I'm scratching my head at. To bad you didn't live close by you could use all the reamers I have and also got the sonnax pressure tester too lol. I bought all this so I can fix all my own junk. Buddy wants me to learn good enough so I can fix all of his too LOL. Seems all my vehicles have these transmissions in them and I'm constantly dealing with these going out after a while after I bought them so I decided to start fixing them myself. Just trying to learn everything I can. I usually can fix anything else but these are tricky when starting out but I will learn them good enough
@@DS-Turbo I still learn things and I've been rebuilding for 20 years! I don't attest to know everything and I make mistakes too. If you have one that fails, go thru it and find out why and Don't count it as a loss, but a learn, that way you don't do it again. As far as the reamers are concerned, it's more cost effective to get a valvebody from Sonnax than to buy the reamers, imo.
@@IrocinZ kinda how I'm doing it just going with the flow and watching a bunch of videos and I've definitely made a bunch of mistakes already. As for the reamers I am a tool horder lol and like to have everything so if I have a fail I can tear it apart and fix it then and now and not wait for the parts to come in. Hope to see some interesting videos from you.
@@DS-Turbo thanks man!
Hey brother I'm happy to see you doing well and merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to you as well!
What's up Smitty
What's happening!
@@IrocinZ not a whole lot good to see you back on the road
@@ice4278 yep, Still here...lol
Could you just mig weld a nut to the stuck bolt head as is done with the exhaust manifold bolts in aluminum ls heads? Seems like it would be easier than a chisel and at least as controllable. And bolt will have to be replaced anyway. Or are the bolts made from a metal that does not easily weld?
You could, I've never tried it. I don't have a power source for my MIG yet and I don't know if they are weldable...
Great video, no one likes a come-back so kudos for showing us the cause. What would cause the seal to blow out, and could you use a high pressure Teflon seal so it does not happen again?
Those were the latest seals. occasionally you get a bad one. I also did some pump mods to this one and it will put extra pressure on those seals,,,
Yeah,I got the same problem,could the safety neutral switch or the 3-4 shift solenoids be the problem?????
Not usually....
This is to explain the question below,I had a front seal blow due to bad oil pump shift bearings,finally got that problem solved but now I don't have 3-4 gears,it's like they just disappeared,1-2,and reverse no problem,so what's wrong ,can it be fixed without dropping the trans ??
Probably not. Could have a failed forward sprag too...
Hey Smithy where do you buy your transmission parts from? Thanks buddy
All over right now. Ebay, Amazon, and I have two suppliers I use. One is A&Reds out of KC, and the other one Total Transmissions out of Chicago.
Mr Smitty, I have a question, what would cause Stacked shifting in a 4l60e or 4L65E . Goes threw all 4 gears before 25 mph. Out of a 2004 Tahoe with 5.3L .
Does it matter on how much throttle you give it?
Are you familiar with Hp tuners? I have data logs. I fucked up man. touching to many tables . The computer is commanding the shifts. It just stays in first. No it doesn't matter if it's part or wot .
@@joer6948 Did you save the original file before you modified it? If so, revert to that.
Everything they tell not to do. I DID!! 3 times. Because I'm hard headed an think I kno Everything. You don't happen to have a transmission for sale.
@@joer6948 Not at the moment. Not going to fix your shifting issue unless you get the programming correct...
Please delete those damn load release Springs. I know the installed them to help with a momentary bind up on 3-2 downshift. 32 downshift is way less common than burnt 3/4 clutches.
They are also there to prevent high speed clutch burn from hydraulic fluid coupling. I install them in all my builds and have never had an issue. Even my personal ones. It's a builders preference to what they like but GM put them there for a reason....