I love this... I've been thinking for the last year or 2 that I'd like to pursue this as a new career, been looking at courses and wondering if I'd like it as much as I think I would, and then I watched this... and now I'm certain it's something for me. Thank you
@@NicTaylorWoodworking couldn't agree more Nic. In a strange way I think it's the hard work that attracts me to it! Along with the pure craftsmanship. I miss the feeling of a hard days work, stepping back and seeing something you've created with your own hands. I've been in large scale construction for years now and it's just knowhere near the same feeling, I'll work on a skyscraper for 2 years and feel no connection to the finished project at all. Anywho, been watching all the parts, they're brilliant - thank you for them 👍🏻
Beautifully filmed. Very artistic and informative. You can see what was done and why it was done without a word being said. Much respect. We are starting a 58’x80’ Timberframe barn in Seward Alaska and trying to get ideas of how to document its journey. Very inspiring work.
58’ x 80’ 😅 slightly larger project than mine :) Thanks for the kind words! Report back if you start posting videos of the build. I’d love to chem them out.
@@NicTaylorWoodworking ....добрый день....я из России....хотелось бы у Вас спросить, как Вы , определяете на какую глубину поставить и забетонировать-фундамент....зимой он-фундамент у Вас не поднимет пучением при отрицательной температуре?...
@@ТОЛИКИВОЛГИН-п4ф Good question! I dug the concrete footers 6 inches below the frost line in my area. It’s pretty warm where I live, so the ground only freezes to 18 inches deep. In Russia, you would probably need to dig deeper. Since the concrete is poured below the frost line, it will help stop the concrete from moving in the cold. Cheers!
Nic...I subscribed tonight to your channel and turned on the notifications too so as to follow along on your progress. You have done well to emulate the presentation style of Mr. C...well done. Now, we just need to get you to using only all traditional natural and sustainable materials...LOL!...and leaving materials behind like that nasty concrete! I look forward to seeing you progress...Good luck Nic!
Thanks! glad to have you on board. Mr. C is awesome. I definitely prefer sustainable/traditional materials which should show with the rest of the build. The foundation was the one thing I wasn't quite sure how to accomplish without cheating and using concrete :) Maybe that’s a subject to tackle on my next timber frame. Thanks again for subscribing, looking forward to getting the next few videos up soon. Cheers!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Will get some stone under one of your creations soon. All you have to do is ask and I would be pleased to share whatever help you find useful...Blessings, j
Love your videos! Very inspiring and relaxing to watch! Great tool list too! I was wondering what wood species your using? Also, was curious if you could show or explain your rope technique and other systems you use for moving timbers. I'm thinking of building a tiny timber frame soon! Thank you
Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad your enjoying the videos. I’m using Southern Yellow Pine for my frame, but any pine would work well. As for the rope systems, I’m basically rigging up a 6-to-1 pulley system. It’s a large topic, but the idea is that each time the rope is doubled back. it reduces the amount of strength needed to pull the object. Most folks would use a block and tackle or snatch block, I’m using friction hitches and carabiners because I have a lot of climbing gear lying around. Maybe I could write up the basic idea sometime as a PDF or something. In the meantime, if you google ‘pulley systems’ you should be able to find the info you need to get started. Good luck on timber frame. let me know if you have any other questions. cheers!
Thank you for the information! I'm wanting to use eastern white for most of the timbers and maybe white oak for sills and joists for its rot resistant. However, I'm really concerned about the weight of white oak on an 8x8x20 beam. Is that manageable by myself with your rope system at a weight of 636lbs or a block and tackle? Any tips would be greatly appreciated 😊🙏
I'm about to tackle my first timber frame construction. I'm building a 16x24 pavilion in my back yard. I'll be using 8x8 and 8x12 cypress for the build. The question I have is, I can only get fresh milled lumber, should I let it dry first or am I ok to build green? Will shrinkage as it dries cause issues with my jointery?
Fresh milled lumber is the way to go. Green lumber has been used for timber framing for ages. The timber will dry out over the hears after the project is done. Good luck on the build, let me know if you have any questions during the project
Enjoyed the timber framing content and have subscribed. I don't want to steal the thread, but your crosstie retaining wall caught my eye. Did you build that, and if so, did you video it? I am thinking of doing the same at my house and would like to know how you secured them to the hill and to each other.
Thanks for subscribing! Unfortunately, I didn’t build the retaining wall. However, it seems to just be built with staggered seems (like a brick wall) and held in place with 12 inch spike nails. Wish I could be more help!
Great watching you work, I have never used a frame saw, but as I watched you cutting with it, the saw wasn’t at a 90 degree angle, could you please explain why? Thank you, and a new subscriber.
Thanks, Stephen! I assume you mean the blade wasn’t at a 90 degree angle with the saw frame? If so, the reason I tilt the blade to one side is so I can easily grip the frame with two hands. One hand on the lower handle, and the other at the top. This also allows my top hand to make super micro adjustments as I cut, since it has more leverage, I can better steer the saw. Hopefully that helps! Cheers
Awesome. I actually started a similar project (at a stage where I just got the wood in). Nice to see you have the same approach. Do I see a bit of Jack Sobon there? I like the framing square/combination square trick. Paul Sellers shows the use of a guiding block to pare a mortice side parallel to your reference face, might also work here. Looks like you're working with dried stock. What wood are you using? Is it oak?
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Workshop actually, about 13 by 20 feet. Started with the first scarf joint, already enjoying it :) Might even start a YT channel for the heck of it. Doesn't that slow you down though, moving the camera around all the time?
go for it! It definitely adds time filming during the projects, but honestly it’s kind of nice to have an excuse to catch your breath while hand planing or sawing. Let me know if you end up posting a video!
Definitely subscribed. Love the work here! Can I ask about your timber... I assume you bought from a local person or shop that does large timbers like this, did you get it kiln dried, or dry it yourself? Or are you using green timbers (that's probably a crazy question)? I recently made a very large workbench out of green oak (rough sawn 2x4s, 1x6x10s, 4x4s, etc) and it's holding together very well. I'm always curious when I see folks doing builds like this (Mr. Chickadee for example as well) on how they got their timbers, how/if they dried, etc. If you wouldn't mind letting me know, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks for subscribing! The wood is green from a local saw mill in town. I basically told them what sizes I wanted and the species, and they dropped it off a few weeks later. I’m working with green lumber, so they delivered it as soon as it was cut. Most places can also kiln dry the wood, but it means you’ll have to wait longer and it probably increases the cost. Plus, if the wood warps when drying, you might be stuck with it. The hardest part about working with green wood is that is weighs so much. You’re also working on a bit of a time crunch as you want to get the frame together before the wood has a chance to twist and bend while air drying.Hopefully that helps!
Binge away! This build was a ‘learn as I go type thing’ but I learned woodworking from youtube and reading old books. Lots of poorly cut dovetails in my past :)
Just saw this, sorry for the slow reply! Basically, i’ve read everything from Roy Underhill, as well as several books from lostartpress.com/ they have a bunch of historical reprints that give tons of info. I also watched a ton of woodwright’s shop on PBS (an embarassing amount, you might say). highly recommended!
Great video! I’m thinking of building a timber frame workshop as well. A couple of questions about the foundation Nic. Did you pour a footing under the piers? For the piers themselves, did you put rebar in it for strength?
I followed codes in my area which only specified a certain diameter for the piers (8”), the depth of the holes (24”) and a specific strength for the concrete. I was told to use four piers, but actually ended up doing six because it made me feel better :) No rebar needed, but I put gravel at the bottom of the holes before pouring the concrete. I’m definitely no expert, but I basically just did a little research and followed the process provided by the manufacturer. Hopefully that helps!
I wish I had a good resource for ya, but I don’t. I did some research into my local building codes which explained how deep the footers needed to be dug. After that, it’s just a matter of roughly laying out the locations, and then digging extra large holes (so you have space to adjust the posts). Once the holes were dug, I used gravel in the bottom of the holes to level the tubes before pouring the concrete. I’m sure you could find some good tutorials if you spend some time looking around on youtube. Hopefully this helps a little bit. Cheers!
I use a pick axe, shovel and a post hole digger. Something like this: www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-14-in-Post-Hole-Digger/1000377421?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-ggl-_-PLA_SOL_242_Tools-Watering-Storage-Sheds-_-1000377421-_-0-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkbuKBhDRARIsAALysV44MEKWKrQCXKLece3pnUqDD97RSp9zYTDmEaoiv2P9-wsxcX-dqR0aAuADEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Most of my tools are antique (the drill, hand planes, etc). You can find them at flea markets or ebay. The chisels are from Barr Tools (www.barrtools.com). I highly recommend them!
@@patrickbrady5457 I got a few from ebay, and then kept my eyes peeled for others at antique shops. i used a Stanley #4, #5 & #7. You should be able to find them pretty easily online. Hope this helps!
Great question! I select my reference face based on how square it is. Typically there is only one square corner per beam, so I’ll do all of my measuring from there. After selecting the reference corner, I’ll actually check for twist only where joinery will be cut. If it’s twisted too much, I’ll plane the twist out with a jack plane. Surprisingly, there is little twist in the timbers as they are all fresh green cuts. They haven’t had much time to warp from drying out
When doing large tenants, why not use a circular saw and then do repeated cuts to the correct depth, lightly tap out the waste and finish them out with either your paring chisel we're playing? Ps 20 seconds later in #4 you puck up a plane
Yup, you could totally do it the way you are describing. I personally just prefer to use hand tools, but a lot of folks have success with the circular saw.
If I depended on carrying the timbers, they would still be sitting in a pile in my driveway. I work with ropes for a living, this was significantly easier for me.
I’ve been climbing for about 10 years and teaching for the last 7 or so. I used to take it pretty seriously, but now I climb recreationally and teach mostly.
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Funny thing is I among my 4 best friends have the worst knot making skills. In spite of being the son of a lifelong sea farer and inheriting his copy of Ashley's Book of Knots. By a coincidence, I live about 1 mile from the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, so lots of people to learn knots from.
Put a Powermatic mortiser on a rolling Shop Fox and you would save days of work! The chisel method is cool and all until your wrists and elbows wear out. Why would you want to spend an hour on a mortise that would take only a couple of minutes with a mortiser? Great video though!
Well, the Powermatic mortiser would cost me around $1,000. Which means I’d have to go work for someone else for 2 weeks to pay it off. So actually, the chisel is much faster. Not to mention i’d have to find a place to store the machine in the tiny workshop I have.
Timber Frame plans available at Nictaylorwoodworking.com
Mr. Chickadee style videos are always the best ones. Cheers mate
Glad you like them!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking cheers !
I love working. I could watch it all day.
Thanks!
You've got the most important tool any woodworker needs.... a good dog.
Someone’s gotta eat all these wood chips
@@NicTaylorWoodworking sounds like my dog too
I saw it all at Mr. Chickadee
I love this style of video! I feel like I'm learning so much, even without narration. Excellent stuff, can't wait to see more 😃
Thanks, dude!
Absolutely wonderful work! Peaceful ambience as well! Great vid.
Thanks!
I love this... I've been thinking for the last year or 2 that I'd like to pursue this as a new career, been looking at courses and wondering if I'd like it as much as I think I would, and then I watched this... and now I'm certain it's something for me.
Thank you
Glad to hear it, Dave! it’s hard work, but there are few things as rewarding my eyes. Cheers!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking couldn't agree more Nic. In a strange way I think it's the hard work that attracts me to it! Along with the pure craftsmanship.
I miss the feeling of a hard days work, stepping back and seeing something you've created with your own hands. I've been in large scale construction for years now and it's just knowhere near the same feeling, I'll work on a skyscraper for 2 years and feel no connection to the finished project at all.
Anywho, been watching all the parts, they're brilliant - thank you for them 👍🏻
Loved this video so much dude, really enjoyed your visual style. Nice to see brave, artistic content in this day and age!
Thanks, dude! I really appreciate it!
I just found your channel and already know i am going to enjoy this build. High equality filming and sound. Keep it up.
Thanks dude! glad to have you along for the ride. Cheers
I toothink border collies and timber framing are the way to live🙂
11:50 haven't seen that method before, nice one, good vid.
Thanks!
I love the sound quality so much!
Thanks, Daniel!
great video! so much to learn, excited to watch the rest of the series
Thanks, dude!
Off to a good start, subscribed.
Cheers!
Man that’s some dry earth..great video
I try to block the digging part out of my memory :) thanks for watching!
Very nice work!!!💯👍
je tire mon chapeau monsieur; enjoyed every second of this.
Cheers!
"That's not a chisel. THIS is a chisel."
(Also, love this video! Really well made!)
if you like this try Krish Harbour natural building,love the work they do
Agree on this comment 100% Awesome work over on that channel
Your best video yet! Can't wait to see how this project comes along :-D
Thanks!
Beautifully filmed. Very artistic and informative. You can see what was done and why it was done without a word being said. Much respect. We are starting a 58’x80’ Timberframe barn in Seward Alaska and trying to get ideas of how to document its journey. Very inspiring work.
58’ x 80’ 😅 slightly larger project than mine :)
Thanks for the kind words! Report back if you start posting videos of the build. I’d love to chem them out.
This is so relaxing to watch :)
Thanks for checking it out, dude!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking of course! It's amazing to watch you make stuff sans power tools.
Didn't even see you had put up these videos on the timberframe until now, awesome work!
thanks, dude! It’s slow work, but we’re getting there
@@NicTaylorWoodworking ....добрый день....я из России....хотелось бы у Вас спросить, как Вы , определяете на какую глубину поставить и забетонировать-фундамент....зимой он-фундамент у Вас не поднимет пучением при отрицательной температуре?...
@@ТОЛИКИВОЛГИН-п4ф Good question! I dug the concrete footers 6 inches below the frost line in my area. It’s pretty warm where I live, so the ground only freezes to 18 inches deep. In Russia, you would probably need to dig deeper. Since the concrete is poured below the frost line, it will help stop the concrete from moving in the cold. Cheers!
Nice video 👍 looking forward to watching the rest. Very similar vibes to Mr Chickadee. It works well doesn't it 👍👍👍
Thank you! Mr Chickadee is an inspiration to a lot of timber framers, myself included
Nic...I subscribed tonight to your channel and turned on the notifications too so as to follow along on your progress. You have done well to emulate the presentation style of Mr. C...well done. Now, we just need to get you to using only all traditional natural and sustainable materials...LOL!...and leaving materials behind like that nasty concrete!
I look forward to seeing you progress...Good luck Nic!
Thanks! glad to have you on board. Mr. C is awesome.
I definitely prefer sustainable/traditional materials which should show with the rest of the build. The foundation was the one thing I wasn't quite sure how to accomplish without cheating and using concrete :) Maybe that’s a subject to tackle on my next timber frame. Thanks again for subscribing, looking forward to getting the next few videos up soon. Cheers!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Will get some stone under one of your creations soon. All you have to do is ask and I would be pleased to share whatever help you find useful...Blessings, j
This is awesome, thanks for sharing Nic! Can't wait to see the progress. I was literally just thinking about making a timber frame workshop
Thanks! I definitely recommend building the timber frame. It’s so awesome when things start fitting together
There is a limit to trying to do everything by hand!
Frodo came back to the Shire and became a carpenter
Haha!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Nic Taylor…….is a badass.
This was really well made and relaxing. Must have been a ton of work to get all the shots lined up. Very enjoyable
Thanks for checking out the video. Glad you enjoyed it!
Well this will be awesome.
Thanks dude!
Love your videos! Very inspiring and relaxing to watch! Great tool list too!
I was wondering what wood species your using?
Also, was curious if you could show or explain your rope technique and other systems you use for moving timbers.
I'm thinking of building a tiny timber frame soon!
Thank you
Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad your enjoying the videos.
I’m using Southern Yellow Pine for my frame, but any pine would work well. As for the rope systems, I’m basically rigging up a 6-to-1 pulley system. It’s a large topic, but the idea is that each time the rope is doubled back. it reduces the amount of strength needed to pull the object. Most folks would use a block and tackle or snatch block, I’m using friction hitches and carabiners because I have a lot of climbing gear lying around. Maybe I could write up the basic idea sometime as a PDF or something. In the meantime, if you google ‘pulley systems’ you should be able to find the info you need to get started. Good luck on timber frame. let me know if you have any other questions. cheers!
Thank you for the information!
I'm wanting to use eastern white for most of the timbers and maybe white oak for sills and joists for its rot resistant. However, I'm really concerned about the weight of white oak on an 8x8x20 beam. Is that manageable by myself with your rope system at a weight of 636lbs or a block and tackle? Any tips would be greatly appreciated 😊🙏
I'm about to tackle my first timber frame construction. I'm building a 16x24 pavilion in my back yard. I'll be using 8x8 and 8x12 cypress for the build. The question I have is, I can only get fresh milled lumber, should I let it dry first or am I ok to build green? Will shrinkage as it dries cause issues with my jointery?
Fresh milled lumber is the way to go. Green lumber has been used for timber framing for ages. The timber will dry out over the hears after the project is done. Good luck on the build, let me know if you have any questions during the project
Enjoyed the timber framing content and have subscribed. I don't want to steal the thread, but your crosstie retaining wall caught my eye. Did you build that, and if so, did you video it? I am thinking of doing the same at my house and would like to know how you secured them to the hill and to each other.
Thanks for subscribing! Unfortunately, I didn’t build the retaining wall. However, it seems to just be built with staggered seems (like a brick wall) and held in place with 12 inch spike nails. Wish I could be more help!
Great watching you work, I have never used a frame saw, but as I watched you cutting with it, the saw wasn’t at a 90 degree angle, could you please explain why? Thank you, and a new subscriber.
Thanks, Stephen! I assume you mean the blade wasn’t at a 90 degree angle with the saw frame? If so, the reason I tilt the blade to one side is so I can easily grip the frame with two hands. One hand on the lower handle, and the other at the top. This also allows my top hand to make super micro adjustments as I cut, since it has more leverage, I can better steer the saw. Hopefully that helps! Cheers
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Thanks Nick, great explanation, very much appreciated, keep up the excellent work, I’m truly enjoying the videos.
I’m curious about how you build something like this in regards to permits
In my area, permits are only required if the building is more than 120sqft. So, I don’t really have to deal with the permitting system.
Subbed. Nice videos.
Thanks! Glad to have you here
came here from reddit .... great content subbbbed
awesome! glad to have you!
Awesome. I actually started a similar project (at a stage where I just got the wood in). Nice to see you have the same approach. Do I see a bit of Jack Sobon there?
I like the framing square/combination square trick. Paul Sellers shows the use of a guiding block to pare a mortice side parallel to your reference face, might also work here.
Looks like you're working with dried stock. What wood are you using? Is it oak?
oh, man, it’s so exciting when the wood gets dropped off! Are you building a workshop? Cabin? Shed?
Let me know how it goes. Stoked for you!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Workshop actually, about 13 by 20 feet. Started with the first scarf joint, already enjoying it :)
Might even start a YT channel for the heck of it. Doesn't that slow you down though, moving the camera around all the time?
go for it! It definitely adds time filming during the projects, but honestly it’s kind of nice to have an excuse to catch your breath while hand planing or sawing. Let me know if you end up posting a video!
Definitely subscribed. Love the work here! Can I ask about your timber... I assume you bought from a local person or shop that does large timbers like this, did you get it kiln dried, or dry it yourself? Or are you using green timbers (that's probably a crazy question)? I recently made a very large workbench out of green oak (rough sawn 2x4s, 1x6x10s, 4x4s, etc) and it's holding together very well.
I'm always curious when I see folks doing builds like this (Mr. Chickadee for example as well) on how they got their timbers, how/if they dried, etc.
If you wouldn't mind letting me know, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks for subscribing!
The wood is green from a local saw mill in town. I basically told them what sizes I wanted and the species, and they dropped it off a few weeks later. I’m working with green lumber, so they delivered it as soon as it was cut.
Most places can also kiln dry the wood, but it means you’ll have to wait longer and it probably increases the cost. Plus, if the wood warps when drying, you might be stuck with it.
The hardest part about working with green wood is that is weighs so much. You’re also working on a bit of a time crunch as you want to get the frame together before the wood has a chance to twist and bend while air drying.Hopefully that helps!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Sure does. Appreciate it!
Okay so maaaybe I'm on a bit of a binge of your videos. For real tho, where did you learn to do all this?
Binge away! This build was a ‘learn as I go type thing’ but I learned woodworking from youtube and reading old books. Lots of poorly cut dovetails in my past :)
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Dude, that is so impressive! I love self-taught builders! What kinda books did you read? Do you remember?
Just saw this, sorry for the slow reply! Basically, i’ve read everything from Roy Underhill, as well as several books from lostartpress.com/ they have a bunch of historical reprints that give tons of info. I also watched a ton of woodwright’s shop on PBS (an embarassing amount, you might say). highly recommended!
Great video! I’m thinking of building a timber frame workshop as well. A couple of questions about the foundation Nic. Did you pour a footing under the piers? For the piers themselves, did you put rebar in it for strength?
I followed codes in my area which only specified a certain diameter for the piers (8”), the depth of the holes (24”) and a specific strength for the concrete. I was told to use four piers, but actually ended up doing six because it made me feel better :) No rebar needed, but I put gravel at the bottom of the holes before pouring the concrete. I’m definitely no expert, but I basically just did a little research and followed the process provided by the manufacturer. Hopefully that helps!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking what is the square footage? I'm looking to do a similar build
@@joshleyshon1985 It’s 10’x12’ 120sqft in total
How can I learn more about techniques for laying out where footers go and levelling them?
I wish I had a good resource for ya, but I don’t. I did some research into my local building codes which explained how deep the footers needed to be dug. After that, it’s just a matter of roughly laying out the locations, and then digging extra large holes (so you have space to adjust the posts). Once the holes were dug, I used gravel in the bottom of the holes to level the tubes before pouring the concrete. I’m sure you could find some good tutorials if you spend some time looking around on youtube. Hopefully this helps a little bit. Cheers!
Love the saw! Would you mind telling us where you got the blade?
Thanks! I use: www.highlandwoodworking.com/continentalframesawroughcrosscutblade.aspx it needs a sharpen, but can’t beat the price. Hope that helps!
What is the digging tool you use in this video? I have been looking for something like this, but I never see one in HD/Lowes.
I use a pick axe, shovel and a post hole digger. Something like this: www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-14-in-Post-Hole-Digger/1000377421?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-ggl-_-PLA_SOL_242_Tools-Watering-Storage-Sheds-_-1000377421-_-0-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkbuKBhDRARIsAALysV44MEKWKrQCXKLece3pnUqDD97RSp9zYTDmEaoiv2P9-wsxcX-dqR0aAuADEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Those are some awesome tools! Where would I be able to get them?
Most of my tools are antique (the drill, hand planes, etc). You can find them at flea markets or ebay. The chisels are from Barr Tools (www.barrtools.com). I highly recommend them!
@@NicTaylorWoodworking how did you come across your set of planes?
@@patrickbrady5457 I got a few from ebay, and then kept my eyes peeled for others at antique shops. i used a Stanley #4, #5 & #7. You should be able to find them pretty easily online. Hope this helps!
Where did you source your timbers from?
I called a local sawyer in my area. Then it was just a conversation about what I needed and what they could provide.
When did Daniel Tosh become a woodworker?
Tosh.0 couldn’t last forever...
@@NicTaylorWoodworking you got that right! Nice job on the video and framing.👍
Marking mortice from edges of beam... how do you know there’s not twist over a 3 metre long beam?
Great question! I select my reference face based on how square it is. Typically there is only one square corner per beam, so I’ll do all of my measuring from there. After selecting the reference corner, I’ll actually check for twist only where joinery will be cut. If it’s twisted too much, I’ll plane the twist out with a jack plane. Surprisingly, there is little twist in the timbers as they are all fresh green cuts. They haven’t had much time to warp from drying out
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Informative, thanks!
When doing large tenants, why not use a circular saw and then do repeated cuts to the correct depth, lightly tap out the waste and finish them out with either your paring chisel we're playing?
Ps 20 seconds later in #4 you puck up a plane
Yup, you could totally do it the way you are describing. I personally just prefer to use hand tools, but a lot of folks have success with the circular saw.
Damn, I'd pay my rent on time everytime if this guy was my landlord. Taking a circular saw to his tenants, jeez he doesn't mess around.
@@denisl2760 lol, my dad used a circular saw on a tenant’s door because he hadn’t paid rent for months and boarded himself up in the apartment.
surely it would have been easier to just pick up that 8x8 and carry it to the project..
If I depended on carrying the timbers, they would still be sitting in a pile in my driveway. I work with ropes for a living, this was significantly easier for me.
Are you a climber?)))
Mr. Chikadee much>?!
Mr. Chickadee is awesome
How long have you been a climber?
I’ve been climbing for about 10 years and teaching for the last 7 or so. I used to take it pretty seriously, but now I climb recreationally and teach mostly.
@@NicTaylorWoodworking Funny thing is I among my 4 best friends have the worst knot making skills. In spite of being the son of a lifelong sea farer and inheriting his copy of Ashley's Book of Knots.
By a coincidence, I live about 1 mile from the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, so lots of people to learn knots from.
ha, get on it! Everyone should know a handful of good knots
Hello 👋
What size hand drill is that?
It’s a 12” sweep. Though, I must say, it really struggles boring this many 1” holes. For normal furniture work, it’s perfect.
Me thinking that it not possible to built something without electric tools.
It’s not only possible, but deeply satisfying. Thanks for checking out the videos!
Электроинструменты вера не позволяет?
Pre pandemic: worked at a hedge fund
Those GME stocks man...
скажите же кто нибудь ему что пила 8:19 для продольного пила,а не поперечного
The frame saw I use in the video has a crosscut blade on it. Frame saws can be used for cross cut or rip cut. Thanks for checking out the video!
Put a Powermatic mortiser on a rolling Shop Fox and you would save days of work! The chisel method is cool and all until your wrists and elbows wear out. Why would you want to spend an hour on a mortise that would take only a couple of minutes with a mortiser? Great video though!
Well, the Powermatic mortiser would cost me around $1,000. Which means I’d have to go work for someone else for 2 weeks to pay it off. So actually, the chisel is much faster. Not to mention i’d have to find a place to store the machine in the tiny workshop I have.
@@NicTaylorWoodworkingYou are right. Plus, the forearm and bicep workout you get from cutting mortises by hand is immense!
@@Goodthink2024 haha, exactly! Cheers!
If you ar not a monk, use power tools, the work will be still hard enough.
There were definitely a few times I dreamed about having a chain mortiser. Cheers!
This guys using old fashioned tools driving a car. Amish are riding horse and buggy using modern tools 😂