I like to keep everything seperate so I can go back and adjust them separately further if I need to. If they are in one node they can do weird things to each other sometimes.
I always expose for skin tones even when shooting vlog so generally I like to have the light meter showing a 0 in evenly lit scenarios. Where possible I shoot in 24fps with 1/50 shutter speed. I’ll occasionally shoot 60fps but only when I absolutely need slow motion. I prefer to use real time movement.
thank you for the video , as a noob I rather get a good starting point with a nice conversion and the gamut luts looking good . the time I would have spent on getting the right conversion would cost me way more than a few bucks , it was useful for me
Hi! I would like to ask you. As you and many other creators I´ve seen, the way of working is by applying the conversion lut or the color space transform at the end of the chain. The explanation is that if i work with nodes after the conversion, it is more destructive for the image. What I notice is that if I work like this, the corrections I make are more severe. It´s like I had less headroom to play with. Do you know what can be the reason? Thank you
It's like working with a painting. Whatever you paint first is already there. If you get to the end and want to add a house you'll be painting over all the smaller details you've already added. Nodes work the same way so you start with the most basic corrections and then when you get to the end you add the details that you don't want painted over, in this case the conversion luts as if you add them at the start any exposure adjustments can actually make you clip earlier than you would have otherwise.
thanks for the video tips. I just started shooting with the Real Time LUT on the S5ii and using the Leeming base conversion as my in camera burned in LUT. It doesn't seem to quite react the same as LOG to conversion in POST, as I am finding the suggested ETTR from Lemming doesn't seem to work the same when the base lut is applied in camera in Real Time - do you have any thoughts on using the Real Time LUT in the S5ii and exposure rules / issues? Also - just as a side, I am really liking the CINED2 with the Lemming CINED LUT cube file burned in as one of the camera color profile presets. It seems to give some pretty good dynamic range, with good color and minimal messing about in POST.
my only thoughts with the real time luts are that I wouldn't use them. I think they are a bit gimmicky. Personally I want the most amount of flexibility in post that I can have and the real time luts remove that flexibility. Especially if I want to do white balance/exposure corrections in post... these should be done BEFORE the rec709 lut or any other luts otherwise you're actually creating more work for yourself. so yeah I personally would avoid using them.
What a great video and explanation. Thank you. I'd love to see another video like this - but with indoor shots and how you deal with denoising within Davinci Resolve. I'm in the process of switching from Premiere to Resolve - so I'd love more content like this. Thanks again :)
I used the gamut LUT before I switched to colour managed mode in Davinci resolve. Now I miss it. Wish Gamut could make a corresponding input colour space (if that is possible).
Yeah I’ve avoided using colour managed workflows for that reason. They are good for more flexibility but for most of the work I do it’s not really necessary and just ends up taking more time.
@@RoryandCasey I understand. At the same time, the way that the sliders work differently in colour managed mode is just something that I couldn't be without. For example how the HDR slider doesn't crush the shadows and highlights when adjusting the brightness, or how the colour temperature changes more naturally when warming or or cooling down the image.
It does depend what I'm exposing for but I've got my zebras set to 95 so I don't clip anything and I use the luminance spot meter to try to keep skin tones at or around middle grey (0 stop exposure on the Meyer)
I generally always expose for the subject. The gamut conversion luts I use are designed to be used with middle grey exposure at 42ire which is exactly what Panasonic recommend.
While you explained your method you haven't actually answered if you overexpose or not, I'm curious as well. I'm coming from Sony's S-log and I expose 2 stops over to get the best results. Do you expose your subject at 0 or do you add exposure?
Sorry should have been clearer. I don't overexposed at all when using gamut luts. If you're unsure though it is better to slightly over expose rather than under expose.
Great video showcasing Gamut. Well done
Glad you liked it!
Is there a reason to have base, saturation and contrast as all seperate nodes rather than do all that work in one node?
I like to keep everything seperate so I can go back and adjust them separately further if I need to. If they are in one node they can do weird things to each other sometimes.
Hey do you have a breakdown of your setting son your camera and how you expose your images?
I always expose for skin tones even when shooting vlog so generally I like to have the light meter showing a 0 in evenly lit scenarios. Where possible I shoot in 24fps with 1/50 shutter speed. I’ll occasionally shoot 60fps but only when I absolutely need slow motion. I prefer to use real time movement.
Great Job man, thank you for teaching me something today really appreciate it.
thank you for the video , as a noob I rather get a good starting point with a nice conversion and the gamut luts looking good . the time I would have spent on getting the right conversion would cost me way more than a few bucks , it was useful for me
Hi! I would like to ask you. As you and many other creators I´ve seen, the way of working is by applying the conversion lut or the color space transform at the end of the chain. The explanation is that if i work with nodes after the conversion, it is more destructive for the image. What I notice is that if I work like this, the corrections I make are more severe. It´s like I had less headroom to play with.
Do you know what can be the reason?
Thank you
It's like working with a painting. Whatever you paint first is already there. If you get to the end and want to add a house you'll be painting over all the smaller details you've already added. Nodes work the same way so you start with the most basic corrections and then when you get to the end you add the details that you don't want painted over, in this case the conversion luts as if you add them at the start any exposure adjustments can actually make you clip earlier than you would have otherwise.
thanks for the video tips. I just started shooting with the Real Time LUT on the S5ii and using the Leeming base conversion as my in camera burned in LUT. It doesn't seem to quite react the same as LOG to conversion in POST, as I am finding the suggested ETTR from Lemming doesn't seem to work the same when the base lut is applied in camera in Real Time - do you have any thoughts on using the Real Time LUT in the S5ii and exposure rules / issues? Also - just as a side, I am really liking the CINED2 with the Lemming CINED LUT cube file burned in as one of the camera color profile presets. It seems to give some pretty good dynamic range, with good color and minimal messing about in POST.
my only thoughts with the real time luts are that I wouldn't use them. I think they are a bit gimmicky. Personally I want the most amount of flexibility in post that I can have and the real time luts remove that flexibility. Especially if I want to do white balance/exposure corrections in post... these should be done BEFORE the rec709 lut or any other luts otherwise you're actually creating more work for yourself. so yeah I personally would avoid using them.
Very helpful, thanks!
Glad you found it useful!
If I use real time lut feature on the S5ii, to do the conversion; would I only have to do the last 2 steps in post?
I'd recommend not using it personally. Give yourself the most amount of flexibility in post.
What a great video and explanation. Thank you. I'd love to see another video like this - but with indoor shots and how you deal with denoising within Davinci Resolve. I'm in the process of switching from Premiere to Resolve - so I'd love more content like this. Thanks again :)
Very good video, I have saved this and will definitely be using some of these methods once I get in my Lumix S5IIX
Amazing quality!! How to you expose vlog? And what do you think of that gamut kinetic lut
Hey! Great and helpful video! Can You tell what are Your color management settings in a project settings?
I used the gamut LUT before I switched to colour managed mode in Davinci resolve. Now I miss it. Wish Gamut could make a corresponding input colour space (if that is possible).
Yeah I’ve avoided using colour managed workflows for that reason. They are good for more flexibility but for most of the work I do it’s not really necessary and just ends up taking more time.
@@RoryandCasey I understand. At the same time, the way that the sliders work differently in colour managed mode is just something that I couldn't be without. For example how the HDR slider doesn't crush the shadows and highlights when adjusting the brightness, or how the colour temperature changes more naturally when warming or or cooling down the image.
Not sure if I missed it.
What zebra % or IRE level do you set too?
It does depend what I'm exposing for but I've got my zebras set to 95 so I don't clip anything and I use the luminance spot meter to try to keep skin tones at or around middle grey (0 stop exposure on the Meyer)
@@RoryandCasey Thank you!
@@RoryandCasey can you make a video about this?
I actually did a while ago about getting perfect exposure on the original S5 using a mix of zebras and luminance spot meter. Same applies to the s5ii
Thanks for that great video! Do you overexpose when using VLog? I sometimes have issues with underexposed footage if I don´t.
I generally always expose for the subject. The gamut conversion luts I use are designed to be used with middle grey exposure at 42ire which is exactly what Panasonic recommend.
While you explained your method you haven't actually answered if you overexpose or not, I'm curious as well. I'm coming from Sony's S-log and I expose 2 stops over to get the best results. Do you expose your subject at 0 or do you add exposure?
Sorry should have been clearer. I don't overexposed at all when using gamut luts. If you're unsure though it is better to slightly over expose rather than under expose.
Thanks for the update.
@@ocimaging I normally overexpose maybe 2/3 stops cause this gives me better results in the low lights...
Tutorial starts at 4 minutes. Talking too much
got that from my mum. Sorry bout that 😂