HOLY CRAP! That was so easy. I thought there was way more to it than that. I've having cycling issues on my AR pistol (11.5 BCM) and through my research an H2 buffer and carbine spring will fix the cycling issue. I thought I was going to have to have a gunsmith take it apart to replace it. Thank you all so much!!
I'm having cycling issues, I'm guessing lowering the spring tension will allow the bolt to come back further and get behind the base of the bullet and push it into the chamber. Is my theory correct?
Make sure the buffer tube is seated with the rounded part up against the retaining pin and not one of the flat parts of the tube. You risk the tube flying past the pin in recoil.
Bravo company,, palmetto state arms, and others need to take a business model from BROWNELLS they dont even answer their phones!!!! Brownells is like Discount tire they get the job done
Dumb question. I went through an entire combat tour and never once asked or was told anything about this, so I'm assuming it's a non-issue. But because I'm OCD and paranoid about protecting my first AR, does it matter if the rounded edge or flat edge is flush with the little pin? I'm assuming no since it spins. But still lol.
How about the detent for the takedown pin. I’m having problems because the wrench won’t budge because there are the little tabs that get knocked into place to prevent you from torquing either direction.
Just run a semi wet rag with gun oil on it over it and clean out the channel where the buffer sits when empty so no grit is in there. That's what's causing the sound is that you have debris in the tube that's now collecting on the spring portion.
@@ajguyer1 No problem man! There's also a wear in period for brand new buffer tubes. With your new rifle just be sure to thoroughly clean it after EVERY use for the entire break in period, that way your rifle will be perfectly in sync once the break in is over. I usually do this break in cleaning process for the first 500 rounds.
My plunger pin will not budge and I don't even know if it can be pushed down, does this mean I can't get the buffer and spring out to ever clean it??? Are some buffers permanently locked in and can't access??? Or is there a solution because I will break the rifle if I try to press the plunger down any harder.
For some reason mine will not go back in. Over 15 years messing with these ars and 6 years in the military I have NEVER had an issue putting in the damn buffer spring....
Possibly dumb question: can you install the buffer tube without having a spring or buffer yet. Mostly concerned about the buffer detent getting lost before the spring and buffer arrive
It comes down to cycle rate created from the gas impingement. With different applications you need various degrees of gas blowback and retention in junction with the buffer spring. Someone shooting suppressed would need a totally different buffer weight and spring compared to the normal factory 55gr fmj. This also highly comes into play for automatic firing vs semi auto as well as different power cartridges and bullet weight. 9 times out of 10 you'll never need to worry about this on a normal AR platform that's atleast 16"-26" barrel length that's firing anywhere from 45g to 80g ammunition. Any deviation from what I just mentioned most likely will need a new buffer and spring tension. Now, let's say that your AR is within the range I just mentioned and is under or over gassed. You can easily tell this by the direction of which the casing are being thrown out of your rifle. A healthy range that's properly gassed should throw the rounds out anywhere from 2 to 3 o'clock position. If you notice shells being thrown out from a 12:30 - 2 o'clock position then your system is over gassed, from a 3-5:30 position is under gassed. Both over and under gassed systems can be met with a new buffer spring and tube tension and will fix the issue almost every time.... Hopefully this helps in understanding Alittle even though my explanation was very long winded :)
My thing that holds the buffer in place broke off what should i do force it in or by holding it in there while putting the bareel on or will tht mess it up
It shouldn’t. If anything your bolt wouldn’t go into battery which is not a good time at all. Not knowing what kind of ammo you’re using, you either have a short firing pin, damaged firing pin, bent firing pin, or your bolt is too long.
My man, it looks as if your carrier is showing your receiver whose boss. Add a couple washers to your buffer tube so your carrier key stops smacking your lower receiver.
Use just a semi-oil soaked rag to clean the spring. You dont want it wet at all because it will cause binding and cycling issues since it's collecting tons more dirt, grit and carbon from being so wet. Honestly it runs perfectly fine completely dry when it's brand new. The only time you want to run a rag over it is after say anywhere from 700-1k shots. That's about the time you need to give the rifle a proper strip and cleaning.
HOLY CRAP! That was so easy. I thought there was way more to it than that. I've having cycling issues on my AR pistol (11.5 BCM) and through my research an H2 buffer and carbine spring will fix the cycling issue. I thought I was going to have to have a gunsmith take it apart to replace it. Thank you all so much!!
I'm having cycling issues, I'm guessing lowering the spring tension will allow the bolt to come back further and get behind the base of the bullet and push it into the chamber. Is my theory correct?
Love brownells, one of the most useful channels when working on guns
Make sure the buffer tube is seated with the rounded part up against the retaining pin and not one of the flat parts of the tube. You risk the tube flying past the pin in recoil.
This is what I was looking for - I lost a damn spring! 🤣
Just got a lower wanting to replace the buffer weights, going down the rabbit hole of ar15s. Really appreciate this short and helpful video.
I keep forgetting that the ar15 isn't a piece of tissue paper so I had to look up this video just to realize that i just have to force it back.
Very informative video that gets right to the point. This will help me swap out to an H2 buffer for my 7.62 build. Thanks Brownells!
Did the H2 buffer help with your build?
You can also use the Charging Handle to press it down
Holy shit that’s a good idea
Simple and to the point 👍🏼
Thank You BROWNELLS FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS.
BY the way...Steve Ostrem does the best DEMO'S.!
Youre very welcome and heck yeah he does! :)
Bravo company,, palmetto state arms, and others need to take a business model from BROWNELLS they dont even answer their phones!!!! Brownells is like Discount tire they get the job done
Thank you, awesome video. Also, Sir, you have a great speaking voice !!!
Well. I'll never need to watch the video again on how to do this 😂😂😂 I thought there'd be more to it 😂
Straight to the point. Thank you
What would be the cause of not being able to push that button down to get your spring and buffer tube mine cannot be pushed down
Right on Sir, I was thinking the positioning mattered, I tend to over complicate things from time to time...
Thank you!!!
It helps to cock the hammer and put the safety on. Pushing that little pin can be frustrating sometimes.
I appreciate your help!
Going from a standard buffer and spring to a BCM H2 and spring. You know what that means.... :O
Dumb question. I went through an entire combat tour and never once asked or was told anything about this, so I'm assuming it's a non-issue. But because I'm OCD and paranoid about protecting my first AR, does it matter if the rounded edge or flat edge is flush with the little pin? I'm assuming no since it spins. But still lol.
Thank you
Great vid thank you.
How about the detent for the takedown pin. I’m having problems because the wrench won’t budge because there are the little tabs that get knocked into place to prevent you from torquing either direction.
I fuckin love ya brownells
simple video, nice
What's the easiest way to quiet down that scratching sound when you charge it? Can you grease it?
No. The easiest way is to get yourself a JP Silent Buffer Assembly
Absolutely you can grease it or use gun oil. It will definitely quite it down
Just run a semi wet rag with gun oil on it over it and clean out the channel where the buffer sits when empty so no grit is in there. That's what's causing the sound is that you have debris in the tube that's now collecting on the spring portion.
@@TerminalM193 bro y’all are amazing just got my first ar15 a couple weeks ago and couldn’t figure out why tf my buffer tube sounds like sandpaper
@@ajguyer1 No problem man! There's also a wear in period for brand new buffer tubes. With your new rifle just be sure to thoroughly clean it after EVERY use for the entire break in period, that way your rifle will be perfectly in sync once the break in is over. I usually do this break in cleaning process for the first 500 rounds.
Could this guy do every TH-cam demonstration video, it's a minute and a half, took longer than a minute and a half decide what the wright.
Thanks
My plunger pin will not budge and I don't even know if it can be pushed down, does this mean I can't get the buffer and spring out to ever clean it???
Are some buffers permanently locked in and can't access???
Or is there a solution because I will break the rifle if I try to press the plunger down any harder.
thank you
My spring won't seat. Twisting doesn't work with flat wound springs.
For some reason mine will not go back in. Over 15 years messing with these ars and 6 years in the military I have NEVER had an issue putting in the damn buffer spring....
Beautiful. H0 to an H3. You know what that means!!
Why can't i push down the detent button to remove the buffer spring?
Possibly dumb question: can you install the buffer tube without having a spring or buffer yet. Mostly concerned about the buffer detent getting lost before the spring and buffer arrive
So long as you never ever fire the rifle then sure, just to keep parts together
Thank you:)
Thanks
Updated video on flat springs?
Do I need to lube the buffer spring and buffer?
Why are there a bunch of different “Carbine” length buffer weights, styles, but the rifle length spring and buffer seems to be just one?
It comes down to cycle rate created from the gas impingement. With different applications you need various degrees of gas blowback and retention in junction with the buffer spring. Someone shooting suppressed would need a totally different buffer weight and spring compared to the normal factory 55gr fmj. This also highly comes into play for automatic firing vs semi auto as well as different power cartridges and bullet weight. 9 times out of 10 you'll never need to worry about this on a normal AR platform that's atleast 16"-26" barrel length that's firing anywhere from 45g to 80g ammunition. Any deviation from what I just mentioned most likely will need a new buffer and spring tension. Now, let's say that your AR is within the range I just mentioned and is under or over gassed. You can easily tell this by the direction of which the casing are being thrown out of your rifle. A healthy range that's properly gassed should throw the rounds out anywhere from 2 to 3 o'clock position. If you notice shells being thrown out from a 12:30 - 2 o'clock position then your system is over gassed, from a 3-5:30 position is under gassed. Both over and under gassed systems can be met with a new buffer spring and tube tension and will fix the issue almost every time.... Hopefully this helps in understanding Alittle even though my explanation was very long winded :)
@@TerminalM193your timing is wrong 3:30-4:30 is ideal ejection.
My thing that holds the buffer in place broke off what should i do force it in or by holding it in there while putting the bareel on or will tht mess it up
You need to get a castle nut wrench and unscrew your castle but/ buffer tube and put a new buffer retainer pin in
would a bad buffer and spring cause light primer strikes?
It shouldn’t. If anything your bolt wouldn’t go into battery which is not a good time at all. Not knowing what kind of ammo you’re using, you either have a short firing pin, damaged firing pin, bent firing pin, or your bolt is too long.
What about the AR-Pistol? How do you install the spring
The same….
Mine def doesn’t lock in by itself.
Clint Gibson what brand is your lower?
Colby niudsiodv Pretty sure Diamond back firearms
You did NOT take out the buffer recoil weight. Mine wont come off
Mines smaller on one end Wich end do I use
My man, it looks as if your carrier is showing your receiver whose boss. Add a couple washers to your buffer tube so your carrier key stops smacking your lower receiver.
Ive heard some people actually put a lite coat of lube on the buffer spring...anybody here do that?
Can u guys check my at out it's missing springs
Is it necessary to lube the buffer spring, if so, with what??
Rifle Grease
Use just a semi-oil soaked rag to clean the spring. You dont want it wet at all because it will cause binding and cycling issues since it's collecting tons more dirt, grit and carbon from being so wet. Honestly it runs perfectly fine completely dry when it's brand new. The only time you want to run a rag over it is after say anywhere from 700-1k shots. That's about the time you need to give the rifle a proper strip and cleaning.
How would u disassemble the buffer
Why would you??🙄
M16 A1 buffer contains spare firing pins any idea how to take them out without damaging the buffer
I’ve never heard about this ?
You mean it should not take more than 2 or 3 seconds!!🤣
Jesus Loves You
Thanks