Smyth Busters: AR-15 Bolt / Carrier Lubrication
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
- Brownells Gun Techs Steve Ostrem and Caleb Savant are back to help us separate fact from fiction. Or should we say "friction"? Today's topic is the PROPER way to lubricate an AR-15 bolt / carrier assembly. Turns out the Army Way isn't always right. When our guys were in basic training (a few years apart), what the Army told them to do was wrong. Well, Steve has theory that it served a purpose, but keeping the rifle running reliably wasn't it. Caleb shows us the metal-on-metal friction points where you actually need oil: the rails on the underside of the carrier, shiny wear points on top, and just a dab on the cam pin. How much oil should you use? The AR-15 is pretty forgiving on that point. Just keep it out of the combustion areas. Those little holes in the carrier are gas vent holes, NOT oil holes! Do BCGs with special coatings like Titanium Nitride or NP3 need to be lubed? The guys have some advice on that. What are your tips for lubricating an AR's BCG? Tell us in the comments below.
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I just like how these videos don't start with a 5 minute intro and a 10 minute life story. Straight to the point.
And I like the way they start without music blasting and somebody screaming, "What's happening, Dudes!"
The first time I shot an AR style rifle was when I was 18 and in basic training. The instructor on the range that day told us "that the rifle is like your girlfriend, the wetter she is, the happier she is" LOL, that has stuck with me for over 25 years now :)
😂😂👍
If its carbon fouled, the lubricant just thins the fouling to allow ease of movement. But carbon and oil also creates a lapping compound that increases wear.
If its clean, itll run when dry and stay cleaner for longer. If its carbon gunked, it takes oil to restore ease of movement if cleaning isnt possible.
Well, its entirely possible for a girl to be too wet, both for her sake and your own.
And, the wetter she is, the happier YOU are!
Rule of thumb for any firearm: lubricate any contact points of moving parts. Any thing else just collects dirt and waste lube.
@William Bailey holy shit man ur killing me!!! :) lmfao
"Any contact points of moving parts": Firing pin, locking lugs, piston, trigger group.....all places where most people say not to lube.
a nice thin coat of oil does help with rust tho, not a total waste
@JKSteve1124 To each their own, it's all opinions anyway.
Good advice Long Shot. I usually have one handgun, a carbine and a shotty in "grab and go" status. These firearms are lubed on all contact points. If I take a gun out knowing I'll shoot it, I go a heavy on the lube. This further helps to reduce wear and tear and usually makes the gun a bit easier to clean.
Every time I see something like this or find myself in a discussion about BCG lubrication I'm transported back to 1985 at Fort McClellan in Alabama. I see Drill Sgt Odom picking up a weapon that was malfunctioning on the firing range (those basic training M16's where older than dirt) and cracking it open, then giving it a literal enema of CLP out of one of those green bottles. Just hosed the BCG down and shoved it back in there with oil running out of the rifle. Didn't give that private anymore problems that day.
Wow, beat you there by 6mo or so, but I remember SGT Odom! "Of The Troops!"
I live in Jacksonville, just north of Ft. McClellan. It was a major economic blow to the area when that base closed. There's still a small area that is used for Govt training of some kind but the rest of the property was given over to Anniston to be developed. It's a beautiful base, pity I missed it in its heyday.
Fort McClellan! We've chewed some of the same dirt bro. Christ I remember a mail call while out on bivouac December '79. Got a letter from a friend inviting me to his place for xmas. Quite possibly the best letter I ever got.
@Gulf Relay Yes, my Mother did wear combat boots! As did my Dad and me and now our son and Ft. MClellan was where my Mother had basic training.
Ft McClellan here too.....1997 ....B795!!
I have an external oil tank which feeds an oil line that runs directly into my gas block with a spring loaded valve. Each time the gas impingement system is cycled, the pressure pushes open the valve, allowing oil to circulate the entire action through the gas tube. The oil catch tank is inside the pistol grip. Once it reaches a certain level, the oil is forced back into the main tank for recirculating. Every 500 rounds I do an oil change and filter with 10w-40 full synthetic.
man, I would like to see a schematic of that system! share please!
I have never heard of that but I'm definitely gonna have to look I to it. Also my good old car also uses 10w40 fully synthetic so I have plenty of that laying around.
You guys
🤣🤣🤣
And the oil pump gear runs off the forward assist gear notches on the side of the bolt carrier 😂
From the manual on the use of the 1919 machine gun “Oil when it’s cold, Grease when it’s hot, and crisco on Sunday.”
Lol that was the M2 predecessor Interesting I wonder about using car engine oil as a last resort
Edd Z3r0x Possibly, I know back then they used a lot of mineral oil for aircraft engines. Radials specifically, you could use that I’m sure
@@derubersoldatx Car engines contain thousands of explosions every minute and lubricate tightly compressed components oscillating faster than any machine gun. It'll work just fine in any rifle you care to put it into, even as a first resort.
@@derubersoldatx I've been looking everywhere and lots of military and law enforcement use 10-30 it seems. So yeah engine oil is great and a lot cheaper.
@@derubersoldatx I use 10-30 to lubricate all my guns. Works great. If you lube it and happen to not use it for a while, when you look at it later it'll have spotty coverage in my experience. Wouldn't recommend getting it sopping wet though
I have to tell you, I REALLY appreciate these particular 'smyth busters'. Talk about an eye opener
Thank you so much!
When running a high round count SWAT class there have been times after a few hundred rounds that we actually dipped the carrier assembly in a small bucket of light oil.
@@gscop1683 Vickers has a video where he decisively destroys the myth of two much lubrication, involving gallons of motor oil and dipping a handgun and an AR in it and blasting away.
I don't have personal experience with this, but I have heard that too much lubrication can be a problem in really fine dusty places like Afghanistan. The moon dust sticks to the oil and can cake up after a while. Could also be a myth though.
Personally, I always grease up my buffer tube too, just to get rid of the sproing.
@@brownells I second this!
What are Caleb’s hair lube points?!
Run it wet!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
CLP... It cleans, lubricates AND protects.
@@beeleo Cleaner kills Lube, so CLP attacks itself. Use seperate cleaner, lube, and protector.
@@markwright760 it sounds like this needs a Smith Busters episode.
I've never seen a bolt that was so wet the gun wouldn't function but I've absolutely seen them not run dry. I'd also recommend putting a few drops inside and outside of the charging handle.
How about wet with silty sand?
@@Golgi-Gyges ARs are sealed well enough that sand shouldn't get into the action.
@@mustangkrillin ha ha!
You've never been to the Persian Gulf - and what about during firing?
@@Golgi-Gyges Lube your rifle properly and it will work properly in ALL conditions. th-cam.com/video/htE91fMUA-s/w-d-xo.html
I'm not military but I've shot with military since the late 1980s. I've tried most of these methods and had problems. Starting in the early 90s I run dripping wet an never had any problems.
Does anyone else get jealous when they see their set where they make these videos? I'd love to have a gun room like it.
That's a commandment
Build one.
I generally run it wet using CLP. I've found that they run well dry and clean, wet and clean, wet and dirty but, not dry and dirty. That being said, it's easier to clean when it's been lubricated properly.
yea i like it when you basically wipe it clean instead of having to scrub.
Anytime you have friction between two metal parts, and a high explosion going on, you decrease that friction with proper lubrication, and help to dissipate that heat. Two of the most destructive forces, heat, and friction...
After cleaning I look at the bolt and receiver, anywhere there is wear, I put a tiny drop of oil on my finger and run across it. Zero issues in 20 years
Mine goes wet with 5w30
@@thedeathwobblechannel6539 Me 2 with $1 store synthetic
I run mine moderately wet but mine also spends a lot of time sitting in a corner in-between cleanings so I want that extra barrier to prevent corrosion
Word!
@@brownells -lol, Word up. In the 90's it was "word to your mother"
I mainly use grease since it sets muzzle up in the safe. That with dry film lube
@@bradbeam7254 what grease in particular and do you feel it's better? I'm curious about Mil-Comm TW-25b, and recently been experimenting with it particularly bolt/cam pin area.
Fireteam Michael, anything besides long term preservative treatment. Price and availability at my local store is what I use. I don’t recommend any certain brand in particular. The guys below me seems to share the same sentiment.
I just dip the whole thing in french fry oil.
Crisco ;) ... sticks better :)
@@hazcat640 Tastes better too.
mmmm french fries..
Bacon grease. That way it smells delicious when you shoot
Hahahaha
"If it ain't wet, she ain't ready!"
One can never use too much lube. ;-)
🤣👍
LMFAO
I thought we were talking about guns.
Life advice to live(and love) by!
Myth I heard in the Army: “In the desert, don’t use any lube, it attracts dust”. Although I agree dust will mix with oil, I’d rather wipe off and re-lube my weapon daily. I’ve seen a lot of malfunctions caused by nothing in the gun for lubrication other than sand/dust.
In some cases in WW2 North Africa and in the Arctic graphite powder is recommended.
@@shawnr771 I don't know about WWII in Africa, but today in Arctic climates, LAW is the lubrication called for in the TMs and FMs.
@@jcnikoley I had read it somewhere many years ago that it was tried. Not sure how well it worked.
I grew up in the desert, but now I live in lush mountains. I struggle getting used to leaving oil all over everything (it's wet here as well).
If in doubt, we only used oil if absolutely essential - but graphite was fine.
@@farmerbrown84 Thanks.
When I was a new soldier, and most of my time in the military I kept it well-oiled, as directed and the established norm. Before and during my deployment to the Middle-East, I used practically none. I thought very carefully about it and decided that only true "friction surfaces" may need lubrication. It worked very well...actually better than with more lube. I wasn't wanting to attract sand and dust to those surfaces either.
There has been so much misinformation in the military about lubing the bolt-carrier group.
I am a big fan of dry lube also.
I was introduced to tw25b in Iraq my second tour and I swear by it. It runs smooth and no issues with dirt and dust.
@Justin Haven lubriplate?
@@Oldmankingspiffy TW25b is a great product. Beyond using it on my AR, my Sig P220 won’t run reliably without it and most of my 1911s run better if I use this on the slide rails.
@@Oldmankingspiffy I started using TW25B over the last 10 years or so on everything. It stays in place, and easily outlasts most other products.
I’ve seen a few ARs out on the range quit running because of not lubricating their BCGs. The ARs history tells us that the rifle needs to be kept maintained depending on the environment whether well, or lightly lubricated.
I never lubed my service m4 because tbey never had any lube, ran it dry everytime i went to the range and never had a single jam. The only time i ever had a jam was because of shitty mags
I was told by a friend who was our gun guru to use a dab of wheel bearing grease on the BCG rails, and oil everything else. So far, all my ARs run well.
This is what I searched for, I was sad they didn't mention grease. High temp stuff. The rail surfaces need only a small amount but it really lengthens the life of each cleaning and oiling.
Another very useful presentation, thank you gentlemen.
Grand dad told me that firearms lubrication was very simple - find where the action has movement and metal on metal contact. Consider lubricating those surfaces and the conditions under which the firearm will be used. He insisted I always use Hoppes gun oil and better to apply it sparingly than heavily. John Moses Browning, Eliphalet Remington, Bill Ruger, John Garand, Eugene Stoner, Samuel Colt all knew how to design and manufacture reliable firearms that require little maintenance and modest amounts of the proper lubricants to provide generations of reliability and accuracy.
Well said!
@@brownells With products from Brownells and time and a food dehydrator I refinished the stock of a Winchester 88 in 284 Win. Over the course of a month I extracted approximately a half cup of oil (smelt like WD40) from the wood. Less is more.
Thanks for the clarification. I recently saw a few videos by former military guys (special forces) who lubricate the BCG by dropping oil in the gas holes. It was confusing, so wanted to do some more research on it.
Here in Wyoming where the relative humidity can be single digits, I have had several failures (usually FTCs) trying to run an AR dry. A light application of CLP or Tetra oil on the "shiny spots" on the outside of the BCG and a few drops in the bolt bore result in 100% functionality.
If you look at the bottom of the BCG, you were see slight wearing on the rails on each side and in the center area between the rails. I have seen videos where they recommend a very light coat of oil on these areas.
@@Bream243 Oh, like this very video? Lol!
Whatever gun I have, I look for wear points from metal on metal contact, and lube there.
I generally like using a gun grease for sliding surfaces, and oil for pivoting surfaces.
Seems to work well.
Tim at Military Arms Channel is testing the limits of a BCM build by not lubing it. He's up past 7000 rounds without a malfunction shooting it about a thousand rounds at a time with cooling time between mags. His hypothesis is that carbon can act as a dry lube and he'll get far more rounds without a malfunction than anyone else thinks. The idea that carbon COULD be a dry lube is valid as I once had a maintenance job at a college where we regularly lubed sticky door locks using a dry graphite powder, graphite being a form of carbon. However, the charcoal in your grill, the coal in a power plant, the graphite in your pencil, the graphite in a golf club, and the diamond in your ring are all carbon but with different functional properties due to the exact molecular structure and orientation. Which form comes out of burnt gun powder I don't know but I am interested to see how far Tim's BCM goes.
We are interested to see how that goes as well!
I believe he lubricated it once before starting that test. So it is not so much how long it will run with no lube but how long it will run between lubrication applications.
I agree
Tim is a fucking idiot. He was running that piece of shit C39v2 telling everyone its fine and dandy past 4k-5k rounds. Even running it suppressed. Then a REAL man of integrity Robski came onto the channel and proved the C39V2 was actually destroying the receiver/bolt. And Tim changed his toned. But all those poor bastards bought a c39v2 off a dumbass like Tims opinions. Guy is a fucking larper.
Maybe Tim happened to have a well made example? Sure, he's more of an AK platform guy than most firearms enthusiasts, but he's not Rob Ski, Jim Fuller, or somebody else who is specialized in that platform. I don't agree with him 100% of the time, but in the big picture, he's a decent resource.
I used to oil everything and wipe off the excess until I started to have some cycling issues. Now I run mine as wet as possible, basically wipe or hose the thing down with whatever lube I am using and don't wipe any off, just assemble it and run it. Haven't had any problems since.
A lot of counter people at local LGS often say that AR`s like to or need to run wet but I would say that it`s due to the parkerized type finishes that many have witch seem to be a bit thirsty if you notice when you oil them up. And I always oil up the gas rings for storage. Heck I even used to clean the gas tube , being a clean freak after shooting, But I asked Chris at small arms solutions and he said there is no need to clean the gas tube as there are no related issues of that type with a gas tube.
@Thystaff Thywill The AR I had an issue with was a M&P 15 Sport. I believe the bolt is nitride if I remember correctly.
@Thystaff Thywill Why would I swap out a BCG that works? That doesn't make any sense.
I also add a drop of oil to the cam pin and the actual bolt. I look for anything that shows wear and add a drop. Besides that, I do what you recommend.
I apply a thin coat of lubricant over the entire exterior of the bcg. Primarily lubrication, but also to protect it from the elements. Gr8 vid. 🔫
I put my BCG in the skillet when I’ve finished the last batch of bacon frying. Wipe down the excess and reinstall! Smells awesome on range day!
Well, we wanna come sniff that American goodness!
It's worth noting that I recently saw a video in which the presenter placed drops of lubricant on the openings you identified at the onset of the video. He did state that is how he learned it. He was very emphatic that he did not endorse or recommend his method; it's what he prefers. Thanks for putting this Intel out. Sometimes the way that it was always done may not necessary be the best way to do it. Thanks for providing us with a different perspective.
I tried grease and I like it better than oil. It protects against corrosion, wear and doesn't need to be reapplied as often
Any place metal rubs against metal and couses friction.
Yep. Just like a car! Metal on metal should be lubricated. (Engine, Transmission, Rear Differential, etc.)
@@rexlr695 And Mobil1 0-5 is just fine and dandy, if it's good enough for a race car engine it's good enough for my weapons. The stuff sticks to the metal and doesn't hurt it one bit and is slippery.
And friction causes heat which, can lead to a lot of issues.
@@UpChuckLiberals mobil1 0-5? I cant find that one
@@zstunts4843 Get the lowest you can find, it's not going to matter one bit. Happy shooting.
Mobil 1 full synthetic. Once it gets into the gun, it feels smooth as glass and runs without issue for a LOT of rounds. Cheap too, a quart will last a decade for $10
amen. hand sanding with Mobil 1 full synthetic made me a true believer. On my guns, shiny spots tell
me where to put lube.
I've been an advocate of synthetic motor oil for years... it's designed to operate at a high temperature... and only suckers pay $10 for a couple of ounces of Rem Oil, etc.
Isnt it really carcenogic for your hands?
Joshua Tipps new, clean oil is basically harmless. Used oil has been shown to carcinogenic in animal tests, but that’s from all the nasty chemicals from combustion being mixed into it.
Years ago, I got into some nasty synthetic oils made for jet engines which caused blisters on my skin. I have sensitive skin and Mobil 1 synthetic has never bothered me one bit.
Eating lab rats from the state of California has been shown to cause cancer and possible birth defects
That dude's hair is always impeccable.
Always!
Rumor has it, he uses Hoppes
I can imagine what his pillow looks like.
Caleb, I think its pretty dam cool to see your career having excelled to this level. When you were at Jim's you were the only one I wanted working on my guns because of the level of professionalism you practiced. You deserve it.
Thanks brother, I appreciate that!
Word! Caleb is a great addition to our company!
Almost my entire yearlong tour in Baghdad I kept her dry but consistently brushed debris/dirt and kept carbon buildup to a minimum and never had a misfeed/malfunction. The only time I would lube it was in long firefights which I always kept a bit of lube handy to keep the friction heat down.
Small amount of high temp ball bearing grease for friction surfaces but running oil the rest of the way. Very smooth action when you run it hot or cold.
Makes sense not to put oil in the vent holes - like I've been doing! However, since the gas rings are contacting the inside diameter of the carrier, don't we want to lubricate that friction point?
I do but mostly for protection of the parts in storage and while being cycled. Not while firing but I see it as a moving part.
Yes, if you want to do a quick lube and not disassemble the bcg.
As with all the videos of two dudes in agreement with each other, no one to ask your question to them or give an alternate opinion.
I just use Militec 1 dry lube on my rifle because i live in the mohave desert. Heard good things about it from some army buddies in the sandbox
Being a gun noob that never had anyone to teach them anything. I just want to say thank you! I love yall and all the videos yall make together thank you for your knowledge and wisdom from the bottom of my heart.
Even did it this way in the army.. moderate oil on those friction rails, light oil on the rest of the bcg, light oil on the gas rings (not through any holes, literally directly applied to the gas rings after making sure the end of each gas ring was pointed a different direction, before putting the bolt in the bcg), LIGHT oil on the part that resets the hammer - you never want oil getting on your ammo.. great way to increase chamber pressure and go boom instead of bang.
I went to a swat school several years ago and had my belt just slathered with a grease that was not specifically designed for firearms. The class was out doors with temps in the fifties. The class continued after dark until about nine pm. As soon as the sun went down so did the temps. Before the class ended my ar was doing anything but running. I finally pulled out my spare ar and finished the class. Make sure you use a lube that is heat and cold tolerant. There are many on the market. My lube turned into glue.
I do drop lube down the 2 holes on the side of the carrier and on the rails then give a few racks of the charging handel...I then drop lube on the underside of the carrier that rides up against the trigger hammer, few more racks....then I lock the bolt back and do a few drops of lube on the bolt that goes inside the carrier do a few more racks and finished
I lubricate the places you shown on the carriage group with a drop of synthetic motor oil and apply it with the finger. It works perfect !
How its done!
I do exactly the same with Mobil 1. Works perfectly
I use lithium grease on my ARs (and everything else, really). A thin film on the carrier rails, the cam pin, that raised surface on the bolt itself, and the rear of the locking lugs. The charging handle gets some too and any excess on my finger when I'm done gets smeared on the face of the hammer and into the detent groove on the takedown pin.
If that's too hard to remember, then just shoot your rifle a bit and you'll start to see shiny areas where wear is occurring; put a very thin film of grease on those shiny spots and you'll probably be fine.
I actually use Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer on all my AR bcg's.. Works great! Little on the cam pin and a little on the rails. I wouldn't use it for corrosion resistance, but to keep the bolt slick, it works pretty good.
I do the same exact thing you do. Something my dad taught me. It's really good stuff, I use it on all my rifles and pistols too.
When I was a fresh recruit, I did whatever was told of me and trusted the NCOs. Fast forward to the end of my contract and I was very particular about what NCOs tried to do to _MY_ rifle. They wanted it DRIPPING wet with CLP and I refused, didn't get any reprimand for it. Dripping wet just didn't make sense to me, it was unnecessarily introducing the potential for schmoo and crud to habitate in the rifle.
Schmooooo
@@tuco86x Schmoo. I haven't heard that term but I think I will use it. Ty.
My late brother in law, said that they cleaned their guns with soap and hot water, and ran their M16's bone dry in Vietnam. They only squirted it with lube if it jammed up in a firefight.
@@stevenrichards3699 That's the exact truth. Lubrication only helps after theres already a problem.
Honestly, the amount of conflicting information, myths, "works for me, so it must be fact" that I've encountered throughout my years in the firearms community is staggering. Firearms seem to be built to run in spite of our best efforts, not solely because of our intervention. Do whatever let's you sleep at night...it's your tool.
I was in the Army myself in the med to late 70's and I remember that drop or 2 of oil down the gas key lol. I oil the rails and bottom as well as the bolt assembly itself, run it sorta wet. Thanks for the video guys
We've all been there! Haha Thank you!
I really enjoy these videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keep up the good work!
Love these videos! Learning a lot. Just built my first AR, and I love the tips and facts vs myths.
Lube it up!
Thanks guys!
On Camp Lejuene we ran our guns “wet” because of the environment. Things rust fast. In the sand box we ran them “dry” because too much extra oil would help accumulate dust and dirt and cause issues. Basically just keep it minimally lubed in the desert and super lubed on the east coast USA.
Red Synthetic grease works great on the buffer spring gets rid of the noise and makes it feel smooth. I also use it on my bolt and charging handle as well as gun oil.
I lube the gas rings. I have never had an issue. I always tend to run it the bcg and bolt wet.
Eh I'm a grease guy, been using wheel bearing grease for over a decade now and never had an issue, never have had my bolt dry up when firing it and I go to the range sometimes 3-4 times between cleanings and fire about 200 rounds each time. When I finally go to clean my gun the grease is still where I left it. I use to use oil when I first got into shooting and instantly noticed at the end of my range session my gun would start to feel considerably more sluggish. Went to grease and never looked back.
Are u in an area that ever has extreme cold? I've thought of trying grease but always end up back to oil bc half the year its sub freezing temps here and have heard 'stories' of thick grease preventing the action from cycling in extreme cold
Matthew Beaver I use lithium wheel bearing grease which has a thinner viscosity over some of the others. I live in FL so can’t say anything on cold (coldest it gets here is in the 30s) but the fact that we trust the same grease in our automobiles without ever giving it a second thought about maintaining for decades should say something about it’s effectiveness in all weather types. I did look up that same question years back and never found a definitive answer. Most just had the same concern you have but no concrete evidence. No expert but I always thought in extreme cold leaving the weapon dry was best since any lube would probably end up freezing.
You use grease to lube everything or just the bolt and just on your AR or other guns as well?
I have used LSA from quart cans for decades, in hundreds of AR15 and M16 rifles, of all manufactures. Lubricated as US Army or Marine Corps manuals state and illustrate. I have fired thousands of rounds in a two week period to test necessity to clean. After 2700 rounds, in 6 days without cleaning or lubrication, the action slowed so I squirted LSA in the BCG and ran one patch thru the barrel. Good for another 1000 rounds.
I've always run them quite wet with clp. Always have with no issues and I shoot weekly. Great video. Love your videos.
Thank you. It's been a while since I was in the Army during desert storm. I haven't picked up a rifle since 1996. My memory of cleaning these are coming back to me as I had to inspect them being a supply specialist.
My LWRCI stays pretty clean (piston) as far as carbon goes.so I have running the BCG dry. The carrier and bolt are both NP3 coated but I do spray 'em with E&L Dry Gun Lube. Graphite by any other name. No failures at all.
I have always used a little Tetra gun grease on the bolt carrier rails and ware surfaces , Rem oil with teflon on the firing pin ... Break Free CLP on everything else ,,,, it has worked well for me , very little ware and several thousand rounds , they always run well , I clean my ARs after every trip to the range , I keep the gas tube clear with Birchwood Casey gun scrubber and a few shots of compressed air , I keep the bolt free of carbon deposits and well oiled .
We were told to use the two vent holes on the side to put oil on the gas rings inside, not as oil holes but convenient if you forgot to put oil on the gas rings before reinserting the bolt.
Exactly. If your taking your bcg apart then this isn't necessary but the bolt should be slightly lubed within the bcg... These guys are making it sound like you don't need to lube these thing much at all. I think this video is giving slightly mis guided info. If in doubt the ar platform should run more lubed vs less lubed. Not had a problem in the over decade Ive owned multiple ar-15's. Hell Ive heard story's from vietnam vets of them dunking their bcg's in buckets of motor oil to keep the guns running.
I lube mine like an engine. Any area that touches another area that has movement during the cycle gets lube , other then rings. Rails on bolt carrier, hinge outer surface on extractor and pin. Shiny area in the middle of bolt where in makes contact with bolt carrier, ejection pin on bolt face, thin lube on all wings on bolt. Thin lube on cam pin. Any area that shows indication of friction- will be missing some finish or shiny metal gets lube . Inspect inside of lower after shooting session, if its bone dry at contact points then needs more or more often lube is how I run. In my experience after 240-300 rounds all oil is burned off or evaporated on the b.c.g rails and on the lower where rails mate. If two pieces of metal are rubbing during movement I say keep it wet .
Sounds good except the locking lugs, bolt face and ejector should be dry, otherwise you will introduce oil into the chamber which is unnecessary but also potentially hazardous and increase wear and tear by not allowing the case to properly obturate to the chamber walls for a good gas seal,
Oil in the chamber will allow some of that gas to travel rearward onto the bolt face, hence the extra wear and tear, not to mention filth.
Lube her all you want behind the locking lugs, forward of that should be bone dry.
I had negative experience with dry bolts so I use a moderate coat of lube oil mainly in the surfaces you pointed out. However, a light spray of lube oil throughout the entire bolt seems to really work better. I don't clean my ARs every time I shoot them but I don't usually use more than 100 rounds at the range as others use much more than that. To me carbon removal is essential followed by a light coat of lube oil.
If it moves, its lubes. I pull the bolt and dip the bolt end of the bcg in red oil then wipe off the excess. The bolt gets a simple green soak, a water rinse, then goes for a red oil soak. I dont scrape the carbon off the back of the bolt.
I am willing to accept the fact that carbon particles suspended in the oil may cause more wear than running it dry.
Special note: I also put a squirt of red oil down the gas tube, let it set for a few minutes then give the regulator a few turns back and forth to prevent carbon locking. It also helps me grow a wicked patch of pimples when I shoot it.
Thanks guys. I never had any instruction on lubing my AR's. Lubing a gas port didn't make sense, lubing parts that contact each other always did. Caleb hit the operative word, "shiny". Shiny always gets lube, ports get a dissipating solvent. Kinda like the human body, you don't want anything gummin' up the ports. 😳
I have had issues with jamming in cold weather when lubed with oil; so when it’s cold (far north here. I’m talking -20 and colder) I clean the oil off and run graphite dry lube. The graphite has worked well in the cold, and since doing that I haven’t had any problems.
Interesting to know.
Fucking what?
it is interesting how temperatures wreck havoc with metal expansion/contraction, hardening rubber seals, freezing water droplets trapped in the action etc the whole physics change.
Vince Anders ...... not sure how to explain more clearly that extremely cold temps will jam you up if you run wet lube in it.
@@kurtisb100 because cold weather justifies running an abrasive "lubricant" in your gun. Yes carbon is abrasive as hell. Source: I work with it every day. You're extremely stupid for doing that vs buying a lubricant that wont gel up at those temps.
If we had a malfunction some dude with a clp spray bottle would just spray your bolt and have you rack it a few times and send it
Wise counsel mixed with interesting and relevant anecdotes. Well done!
Ar15's are not meant to be ran wet. Minimal lubricant is all you need. Lube the wear spots by using a lightly oiled rag. I ran my m16 this way in the Army and never had any issues. When you run them wet or like he said oil dripping out there is the high probability of oil getting on the cartridges and in the chamber and that messes with the pressures in the chamber. Gunblue490 has a good video on this.
A light coat of Supertech high temp grease from Walmart works great on all those surfaces mentioned. It's cheap too.
I use it for my handguns too, that stuff lasts FOREVER almost. I'm in Arizona and I shoot in the summer as well, the thinner oils aren't nearly as long lasting.
@@tehkoalainsurgency I am a fan of Slip 2000 or Slip 2000 EWL too. Doesn't evaporate easily, excellent viscosity.
I use the high temp bearing grease and holds up well. And for the few bucks it costs you get a lifetime supply.
If it slides use grease
If it rotates use oil.
@@JamesSmullins That's what Cajun Gunworks told me two weeks ago. Bought their moly grease/oil.
@vegeta420z Amazon is no better and in many ways far worse though Walmart is trying to catch up in those areas with their online third party sellers.
You can get that grease at any auto parts store, if you have a local one use that.
Light coat of breakfree on entire bcg under normal conditions . I live in low humidity desert enviorment . Wet but not driping wet.
Carbon will give some lubrication . Never run a AR dry! IMO thanks good video for beginners
I run mine wet! The only place I don't want lube is the flat on the bolt face. Rotella T6 5w-40 with a splash of zinc and moly additive added in. Carrier rails, LIGHT coat on the back of the lugs, extractor pivot pin and spring, gas rings, bolt tail, cam pin. The real trick is to not get it soaking wet so that it gunks up the FCG. Everything, however, has at least a light smear of oil. Sometimes I do add a bit in the gas key or vent holes and fire a few shots before cleaning. Gun experiences a lot of dust, grit, water, and debris around the farm. No problems yet!
I learn a tremendous amount from these two. When I got my first gun, an IWI Z15, a year ago I was intimidated to take it apart, these videos helped me figure out the hows and whys of maintaining my ar. Have shot about 2K rounds so far, installed new buffer springs, triggers, scopes and overall feel much more comfortable working on my rifle.
One of the first things I was told about oiling the M16/4 in boot camp that goes across all sister platforms is the fact that the platforms like to run wet. We were told that when in doubt, be liberal with the CLP we were issued. The type of lubricant is another subject entirely, but I recommend a liquid CLP for a couple of reasons.
First is the fact that it does everything for you. It will actively prevent fouling and keep the fouling wet, negating the need for a designated cleaner. CLPs typically are designed to condition the metal, making it easier to clean with subsequent cleaning and lubrication cycles.
You can also use grease in some parts of the rifle, that's another topic.
I put grease on my bolt & Carrier, also lugs
& cam pin. I ran it in 2 day classes with out cleaning, l just put a little extra grease (red auto grease ) that stuff is tacky it stays where you put it. Thanks for the videos guys.
Do either of you guys think using Aero shell grease would work alright?
Im personally just not a fan of using oil etc. It seems to just leak everywhere through the holes of the rifle and that annoys me. So I prefer grease. Just want a second opinion on the type of grease. I have Aeroshell and would prefer not to buy a different type. I also like LSA.
@@aholegunner Aero Shell is a anti-seize, it's also used to get proper torque. I like high temperature bering grease for high round count reliability.
@@Mr1gun Thank you for your help
@C-Bomb Thanks buddy!
As an A&P I'd recommend not using aeroshell. It doesn't have much lubricant in it (its fire retardant) use red wheel bearing grease (I've used Shell Rotella in m1s and m14s). Used it in my ar15s but I have mixed emotions if it's too thick. But when I have I never had a problem.
I watched a you tube vudeo.just over a week ago telling me to put oil in those 2 vent holes. I'm glad to hear from Professionals to not do it.
I oil it on the places you pointed out and a drop on my Charging handle where I see a shiney spot
If u don't take the bolt out. I could see putting some thru the holes. If the rifle is going into storage. For corrosion resistance on the bolt itself.
Typically I'm just going to pull the bolt and have a light sheen of oil on the whole thing bolt and carrier. With extra attention to wearing surfaces rails, bottom where hammer drags and gas rings along with the bolt tail that's always a pita to clean
Definitely a great feature of Brownells you guys offering us your varied experience.
The above method of lubricating the friction points was something I was taught by our Unit Armorer. He told all of us to beware putting lube down the vent holes and the gas key. Like it was stated, "It was busy work for the soldiers."
I run as dry as I can to keep from prematurely gathering dust, I live in the High Desert in Eastern Oregon. Deployed 3 times as a Hawk Crew Chief. my rifles and pistols stayed dry and carbon free as much as possible but I used T25 or TU25 on my M240H. after the Marines gave us a bunch and we started using it, there is nothing better for belt fed. Its labeled for 50cal and up but I tell u what, its the best on a 240.
TW-25 was probably the best weapon lubricant I ever used. I used on everything from 20MM, .50 Cal, M16A2 and M9. The grease was good for crew served weapons and the spray was great on personal weapons.
I agree. When I went to Iraq, all of my weapons were run dry, and cleaned daily, at least. Never had a problem.
Now that I am not in the desert, I have a wide array of lube and cleaning products to use. I still have some TW-25 floating around here somewhere.
You guys do some great work here keep em coming fellas !!
Thank you!
For the record I already learned all this. I'm just watching for the hundredth time because I find you guys calming
Too many times people think you can run nichol boron dry. Its best to put a light layer on those BCGs too.
Yeah, wow. Thanks guys! From back in the day, the gas key, the vent holes, just as you guys said, were all to be lubed. I've learned over time that it isn't really necessary, and obviously just areas of metal on metal contact need lube, though always seemed like "general consensus" was, better to run it wetter, than dry.
Red lithium automotive grease stays slick rain or shine dosen't burn off after lots of rounds 200 or 300 in a session.
I too have heard of (and used) high temp grease on the sliding parts. Makes sense and easier to clean off carbon fouling later on.
I have been running white lithium,, runs great. I have run over 800 with no problems.
I run my 5.56, 6.8 spc and my 300 blk out BCGs lightly wet all over the surface and charging handles stems. Not any seizing issues, run perfect. All my rifles also have H2 buffers that are lightly oiled along the rim of buffer itself being a high friction area. Flawless operations. Like a well oiled motor, keep it lubed!! Happy shooting and be safe.
I just shoot a short blast of lithium grease inside the buffer tube before inserting the buffer and spring. CherryBalmz firearms grease on the BCG rails. Couple drops of oil on the gas rings and seal.
I am really enjoying this series, I hope you guys keep it up.
But war poet says drop in the holes 🕳
😂😂 great work
That's what I thought lol
His opinions are irrelevant. He ceased to be relevant after his "holier than thou" political tirade a while back.
Good riddance.
@@BertShackleford I never heard about that. What'd he say?
Bert, which video are you referring to?
As for the substance....I've participated as an assistant and student at many AR weekend classes and I've noticed that the number one issue people have with their ARs is caused by .... under lubrication. They hear the myth that you can "run them dry" and this may work ok for the first few hundred rounds, but ... in a situation where they are putting 500 rounds through a day often in rapid strings of fire....I see ARs choke up.
I also make it a point to use a needle applicator and I do apply oil to the bolt itself and between the lugs, etc.
I do not agree
I could see maybe precise amount with needle applicator on the lugs.. I'd imagine focus mostly on bolt/cam pin area.. I do, though haven't been to class shooting THAT many rounds.. few hundred here and there..
Also what's your opinion on grease? Actually synthetic grease like Mil-Comm TW-25b? I've always stuck with CLP but after my Sig Sauer P226 manual recommended above grease, I've experimented with it, particularly around bolt/cam pin. (My comment to the video says all this too)
Fireteam Michael I think grease can be very dependent on your environment. I quit using it because it gets too think on cold days.
Glenn Pady ..You don’t HAVE to, BUT he’s right as most concur
Thank you, your show is a lot of help, much appreciated!
Thanks guys. You're both quite credible.
I live in Florida with the salt air and although my rifles live in dry, cool air conditioning I don't use them alot so I lube them periodically and err towards putting them away fairly wet. The comment about where you see wear or bare unfinished metal shining through was helpful.
I run it pretty wet with M-pro 7. A little goes a long way.
I oil my muzzle brake.... just to make sure the gas flies out with perfect smoothness 😅 j/k! Lube the wear marks is ok for me!
Exactly. No need to lube a place that isn't touching something.
Bruce L. Ha ha ha, good one
I'm a new AR owner and run mine wet. About 300 rounds in and haven't had an issue yet. Thanks to you guys for all the great information and tips!!!
THANKS love the series you have built up
Ordered a BCG from BCM it came wet like the ocean.
That's probably packing grease...not a lubricant
Everything is shipped out covered in birthing fluids to prevent corrosion. I clean all that off and spray it down with synthetic oil, wipe off the excess for break in purposes. Afterwards the only thing that gets oiled are the bcg rails.
That's probably storage/shipping grease so they don't start rusting while waiting to be purchased. I would clean if off and start your own fresh lube job with your preferred lubricant.
clean that off and use a little bit of Mobil 1 synthetic :)
Pretty much any machined product will come with generous amount of rust-preventing oil. The right thing to do is remove it and apply your own lubricating oil.
Thank you for this video. I bought an AR type carbine a few years ago and recently started shooting it. I was told to run it with very little lubrication. The last time I shot it it malfunctioned with every shot. I'm going to give it a little more lube on my next outing and I'll see if that fixes the issue.
Lubrication is important, but also look at the magazine as a potential cause for malfunction. The only time mine ever failed to function was while using a Promag. Never again will I use one. Magpul is always a safe bet, and the gen 2 is perfectly fine for an AR and usually a little cheaper than the gen 3
In a bolt carrier group, the only place I wet lubricate are the rings on the bolt.
As for the entire bolt/bolt carrier, I use a molybdenum disulfide spray for the wear surfaces.
The fire control group has the pivoting surfaces lubricated with Hoppe's gun oil or CLP depending on what's in the range box at the time. In extremely dusty areas/conditions, the entire gun is DRY lubricated only. I don't need or want a wet lubricant mixing with dirt, turning into a lapping compound.
I have to tell you...I stopped using oil on my bolt carriers, and instead use a nice thing layer of high temp grease. Never had a problem and the guns run smooth.
Put oil on the The shiny parts
Great Video. Will Brownells be coming out with a Charging handle for the BRN180?
Great information. So many people have old myths about running wet and or dry. Thank you.
Both times I was in the desert I ran my weapons as dry as I could. Everyone I saw who ran theirs wet had a sugar cookie 15 minutes after they cleaned 'em. At home, with my own ARs, I run a very light coat but I live in the Northwest where there's very little sand... Thank God!