I got a bmw 1 series 2.0L diesel and 80% of the time when I turn the car on the idle revs drop every second and then come back up again it also does it when I drive so it feels like the car is jerking and pulling but I have no clue what it is and I can’t find anything similar anywhere can anyone help?
My saxo was revving itself and it wasn’t into any depth and wasn’t worth a twelve minute video to figure it out , go into a dark place with a torch get one of those small water bottles that’s you’d use to water plants , put it in mist mode and spray it at the engine and shining the torch at it , you can see where the waters being blown as mist and diagnoses where the air leak is , talking about gaskets and stuff whatever it’s just an air leak lol
@@skenginmyblazer8190 I got a fabia vrs my egr is blanked off, if the car is revving it’s self it’s because a pipes leaking and it’s getting more air than fuel
I had a bearing going bad in the alternator. It would turn hard sometimes and smooth sometimes. When the bearing would hang up a bit it would pull the engine down causing the computer to open the throttle to find the idle point it wanted to see, when the bearing would smooth out it did the reverse causing the engine to speed up. As a result of the bearing doing that the engine would idle up and down erratically. There are bearings in the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, A/C compressor, tensioner pully, and idler pulley so any of these could cause this problem. Anytime you unplug the throttle body or remove it from the intake you have to reset the computer and let the car idle for about 15 minuets with no load so the computer can relearn the idle settings. This needs to be done when the vehicle is cold with no electrical load and up until the engine is warm so the computer can learn the different positions to hold the throttle body plate at different engine temperatures, that is why you need to let it idle for 15 minuets or so.
Hello sir , yesterday I had the same problem, and after watching your video, I searched and found a leak in EGR tube causing the truble to my engine, and i fixed it, you saved me lot of time and money sir, so thank you very very very much.
You can take wd40 (non flammable) and spray it around all of the hoses and gaskets and when you hear the engine rpm's go up you have found you're leak. To identify a vacuum leak is the issue before even wasting any time and money replacing sensors, hook up a scan tool and go to live data. Go down to the short term fuel trims and see what % they are at. If a vacuum leak is present, the fuel trims will be very positive anywhere from 5-25. This is the computer adding fuel to compensate for the lean condition the vacuum leak is causing. press the throttle and hold it around 2000 rpm's. If the fuel trims go into negative or close to 0...you have a vacuum leak present. This is because when you rev the engine, you are out of vacuum and in positive pressure. Doing these procedures saves time, money and a dry scalp from scratching it too much.
Spray water bottle with a heavy stream will be safer, you can hear it suck into the hole and car will sputter slightly. Slight steam clean of piston won't hurt it or use a smoke machine, some are near $100 now
When sporadic idle, usually it's the " Idle Air Control Valve " or something to do with Air. Check for Air / Vacuum Leaks or Idle Air Control Valve not opening / closing correctly. Another possibility... Throttle Position Sensor or Throttle Body / Butterfly not closing correctly or dirty.
Does this work for recent models, I’m having a similar issue but it also feels like it’s losing power when I’m driving around with a little vibrations too
Her: "I love manual!" - Yes you did raise her right. My older sister is the same way and won't drive automatics. She just got a 2022 Mustang 5.0 6 spd, which caused me to get bit by the bug again and get my own manual Mustang too. Couldn't be happier after not having driven a manual for decades.
Great job .. now do you have a video for the shocks.. My lady have a Hyundai 2005 we replaced the shocks but still have a bumping sound.. like to see how you do it
It's a 20 year old Hyundai. I am amazed it still runs. Given of course that I myself have a 15 year old car that runs very well, but it's a lexus. 20 years ago Hyundai was still learning how to effectively copy cars from Toyota.
They did nothing like Toyota. Calm down with this Toyota pride. Hyundai dorsnt make boring ass cars just like Toyota does. They cant even figure out how to bring back their one and only legend car, the Supra. They had to ask BMW about that.
Can’t argue with the Supra comment! I was super excited when it was announced, then disappointed when I found out it was a rebrand! They could have done something epic and blew it! 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
@@RBZ06LT6 you cant be serious right now. Just like in the 70s toyota went after bmw and mercedes, in late 90s and early 2000 Hyundai went after Toyota. Their Equus was an identical replica of Lexus LS, for instance.
I used the throttle body cleaner method. Crank it up and start lightly spraying around the hose connections on the intake manifold. The vehicle will rev up if the cleaner gets into the manifold allowing you to pinpoint the leak
Sign language known the world over by diy mechanics to illustrate revs going up and down....wave hand around from the wrist.....sometimes accompanied with a sound impression to match 😂
We had a similar problem in our 2001 Hyundai Elantra. As I can see it's more common than I thought. The car was already old when it started so we scraped it a couple months later. That was in 2011
We’ve babied this car along. My daughter is still driving it today. However it’s getting too scary for her now that she’s got a baby, it’s about time to upgrade and scrap this one. It’s been a great little car! 👍🏼
Bro i had the same issue with my 2004 accent...idle control broken..yesterday i removed d same and glued with good resin...now very fine...me too like u...im alone doing my all electric..electronic and auto. Myself....im so happy...u r doing like me...
Very Informative video Thanx! Have the same problem on my 2006 Opel Corsa 1.4. Also changed the tps, icv and checked for leaks, never thought of checking the manifold gasket!
Hey Nixon, I’m still driving with the problem, I’ve decided to take the head off as well to do valve stem seals, so still need to make time to fix it. I have replaced the tps, icv and map sensors, I would recommend trying that first, and if the problem still persist like in my case you must check the intake manifold gasket like in this video.
My 335i was throwing several codes indicating throttle body circuit, throttle body valve stuck and both cam sensors. I disconnected the harness on my DME and found corrosion on pins. Cleaned them with vinegar and then reinstalled. The corrosion caused my 30 amp engine fuse (#37 on 07' 335i in the junction box under glove box) Replaced the fuse and it runs like a champ!
@@troysgarage I don't knoe about luck it took lots of reading and 2 days to find the problem. Tried lots of different solutions before checking the above.
@@davecrupel2817 Try to Google the engine fuse location, and engine wiring harness to find the dme, ecu, ( All the same thing to my knowledge). Then check the connectors and fuse.
ive got a 2009 hyundai i30 thats just started doing this exact same thing. so glad i found this video. im going to check my intake manifold tomorrow! it was really starting to boggle my mind. i have zero vacuum leaks from my lines. fingers crossed i find the issue :)
@@troysgarage oh for sure its not fun, my intake is at the front so luckily i dont have to go under the car. though i still have to disconnect the coolant hoses/throttle body/ sensors and injectors. Unfortunately i didn't find any issues with the gaskets they look great actually. but i did find dirt on the fuel rail right where the seem is on the manifold, which i think might be actually a crack. damn plastic manifolds. Ive taken it out completely and gone around the seams with some silicone. Ill have to wait to add it back and see if it changes anything!
One check at a time. I’m much better now at diagnosing these kinds of issues. I used to just throw parts at problems till they were fixed. (Parts cannon! Hahaha)
The process is very similar but bolt locations would be a little different. I believe in you! Take a chance and save yourself a bunch of money. It’s very satisfying to complete a job like this on your own! 🙌🏼👍🏼
I have a 2011 Chevy Aveo5. Whenever I'm in idle, hot or cold, the engine will drop to it's normal 800rpms for a brief few seconds before "surging" up and down, all the way down to 200rpms. If I don't press the accelerator, the engine will drop to 0 and quit. I've replaced the MAF, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the sparkplugs. I have a 'too lean' code, and a low voltage code for bank 1 sensor 1. Can't for the life of me figure out what is causing this, but I know I don't want to spend $1000 at a mechanic shop. Does this issue sound like anything you've dealt with in other cars?
My golf VI TSI 2009 1.4 manual makes a loud revving sound. I'll give you the scenario when this happens - I've been driving for 10 minutes minimum and then be idle in some traffic. The car will rev for 3 seconds as though I've put my foot flat on the accelerator and then decelerate (no movement of car (this sound will happen regardless of me being in gear 1 or neutral)). There will be no movement on my dashboard tachometer. This will occur again and again (every 30 seconds) so long as I sit in traffic.
*very good video in my case my ford taurus when I turn it on the rpm goes up to 1500 and then goes down to 600 and goes up and down but when it heats up it stops doing that, the codes show me injector number 3 and maf sensor or it could be the iac valve ? my car has these symptoms when it's cold when it's hot it does little*
Before you changed your old idle air control valve, did turning the ac on made the engine run wilder? Or the rpm does jmmediately when the ac compressor kicks in?
Lool I watched the vid before I read the description.. I thought, wow it does pretty much the same thing as my Hyundai Tiburon... Actually, it's almost exactly the same as my Hyundai Tiburon... Damn, it's totally replicating my Tiburon...... Cheers for the help man!
My Honda S03 civic does this. My mechanic replaced my intake with an bottle intake and said it will resolve the issue. The issue got worse. The jumping of the revs.. 2k to 1k then 2k again. Its very annoying. I need help. Cause it doesn't seem like they know what they are doing
Thanks bro got the same prob 2005 sonata. Gotta try this i guess. A lot of work. By the way, chunks are coming off of my steering wheel too! Freaking hyundais!
We were down to bare metal on the top side of the wheel. I finally put one of those cheap covers over it. Maybe should have done that years sooner and saved the wheel. 🤷🏼♂️
I have a 2000 Impala my son just bought for $500 due to an exploded intake plenum. After replacing the destroyed parts (plenum, upper intake gasket, MAP sensor, IAC and a few other misc things), only code I’m getting is the p0507 and the same exact pulsating idle that you had. I haven’t yet replaced the lower intake gasket nor the head gasket or valve cover gaskets. Taking it in to have a proper diagnostic done before I dig that deep. Hopefully it’s just an ECM programming issue.
@@troysgarage sorta! The shop ran their diagnostic tools on it and determined I had a bad ECM/PCM. I ordered a new one flashed to my VIN for about $150 and got it installed. I had to do a Crank Position Relearn procedure (which you’re supposed to do if you install a new ECM and/or replace your Crank and/or Cam sensors - I did all of the above) via my ODB scan tool and after that my idling problem seems to have cleared up.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, oxygen sensor tests, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, Emission readiness test, and MORE! It retains the memory of test results. It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. The screen is well-lit. It comes in a black pouch. A Actron CP9680 is for OBDII only. It's the same tester. Get 4 aaa batteries, not included, for under the rear cover. Warm or drive the car first. Check the radiator and oil.
Thank you very much for your video, it helped me a lot. I wanted to know if you have the part number for the intake gasket? since in my locality I cannot find the spare part. thank you. Greetings.
At least you got Codes mine does this with Zero Codes I know it's not a Vacuum leak and its not IAC or MAP or TPS I am able to stop the revving by Putting the car in (R) or (D) Nothing else stops it! I can not afford to bring it to a garage and Don't have any Sophisticated Scanners except OBD2
Crap! That’s no good. Did it start suddenly like out of the blue or get worse over time? Bad gas maybe? Add some fuel treatment with your next tank? I’m grasping for something that might help. Sorry brother! 🤷🏼♂️ If you figure it out reply back so we all can learn from it. 👍🏼
@@troysgarage Nope it's been going on for years. I can't remember when it started but I know when it did, I thought "Vacuum leak" or "sensor" It seems like it came way back when my radiator was leaking. Then the car sat for 2-3 year's Everything that had caused a Check engine light has been fixed. That only consisted of the Cam shaft Sensor. But I have replaced every sensor besides the O2's I love this Car I always wanted a Chrysler 300m and I finally got one that has otherwise been such a great car to me. Never ever left stranded 167000 - 203000 miles now and most repairs have been preemptive maintaining and of course the Idle.
Well, at least it’s a reliable vehicle. Seems more like an annoyance than a break down. 🤷🏼♂️ Maybe someone else will see your comments and have an idea you can try. Sorry man! Hope you can find a resolution! 🙌🏼
Wow. That is great work. I have a same problem with my Honda Accord. I dont think I can do it myself as I am not that knowledgeable with car. I hope it does not cost me fortune. Thanks for sharing the video.
Give it a go my man. You'd be surprised what you can achieve following videos like this on TH-cam. There's almost certainly gonna be detailed ones for your exact car too!
Well said! I also use videos to learn. In fact that’s how my channel got started. I watched a video and said to myself “I could do a better video than that!” Then I made myself prove it. Haha. I’ve gotten better with time and experience too. Do’t be afraid to try! 🙌🏼🕺🏼
@@troysgarage thanks mate, found this one real helpful. Just got myself a Yaris Verso (big ugly Vitz/Echo I think it's called over there) for my family as I've spent the past year working on my own Toyota's thanks to TH-cam vids. Paid very little for it, it's quite beat up but it's got pretty low mileage and is solid. Took a few hours to fix little issues which cost nothing to fix (fuses, dodgy cabling, and pinching a few things off an old Yaris I've got laying around I'm using for parts). I've got a p0505 which is the idle air control valve. I cleaned the throttle body while on the car, and found somebody had taped over the hole inside it lol. I guess this was a temp 'fix' in the past?! Removed the tape and sprayed the TB which has caused it to start revving between 1500-2000rpm at idle. It was just over 1000 before and never changed. I figure I've gotta get the TB assembly off the car and take a closer look, maybe check the wires with a multi meter too in case they're faulty. The idle air control valve probably needs a good clean and test itself. I never even thought of disconnecting it and starting the car til I saw this vid to see what happens so I'll try that in the morning. It's a bit of a bitch to get at, unlike the 1litre parts car I've messed with which had an acre of room either side of the TB. I remember the anxiety the first time I did an oil change, then filters, then plugs.... Then I realised how much I was actually enjoying it and as long as you've got time set aside (or a spare car ;) ) you're never in a rush and finding solutions to problems is very rewarding, especially when it's not costing you a fortune. Done brakes, loads of stuff under the hood and a fair few electrical bits and pieces since and feel more confident every time. With TH-cam and a bit of time anyone can work on their cars!
My car recently started idling rough. It normally idles around 1,000rpm. Now if I am sitting idling for a few minutes (when the engine is warm) it would drop down to below 500rpm and sound like it is about to die before coming back up to normal. It would repeat several times then run normally for a while before repeating. If anyone knows what might be wrong I would appreciate your reply
So my g35 revs up when I shift and then it goes but it feels forced I first noticed on second but now feel it in mostly all gears, no gear struggles to go in though. It it just the clutch giving out on me?
Great information thank you ... My car is having the same issue but no codes are coming up... Is there a way to figure out what's wrong do exist and everything and hope I get lucky
i have a 2002 Honda Accord that i just bought as a project, when i turn it on after a while it starts to rev on its own just like yours showed in the video, i was planning on buying a new throttle body to see if that works but what do you think i should do
Hello, thanks for your video. I also did all those tests and more and I can't find a solution, but now I'm going to try the one that you. made. I still ask you, otherwise it's the intake gasket, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8 liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, I clarify that you cannot take out the IAC valve to clean but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were spotless. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. The same if I disconnect the PCV valve and it idles at 200 rpm until it shuts off. Could it be a fault in the EGR vacuum valve or Crankshaft Sensor and cams (CKP and CMP)?
yuup sounds like you chased this like I chased mine. Seems like you are getting extra air introduced post sensor so it could be intake gasket. No other vacuum leaks anywhere you can find? If not the intake gasket is the likely culprit. Sorry, not very fun to chase these but you'll be thrilled when it works!
@@troysgarage Hello, thank you very much for answering. I thought it may be the PSV valve that was never changed in the 230 thousand kilometers it has. When I disconnected it from the hose there the revolutions dropped, oscillating between 300 and 500 rpm's. I wonder could it be the valve? I put my hand and covered it and it went back up to 2000 rpm's. , then I disconnected and saw that air coming from the crankcase comes out of the PSV, I suppose, and it is possible that it is open and already defective?
@@troysgarage Thank you! Hopefully that's it, I already bought a new original and I'm waiting for it to arrive, when I have the new one I'll try it and tell you how it went. Greetings
Excellent analytics. I have 85 Honda Preude. In a barn and started and raced to 4000 rpm and then drops and stalls and backfires intermittently. I fear now that you have solved the issue but getting a gasket here in UK is impossible and its a hell of a job..ugh...
Not sure if this is an exact match. But Amazon is a great place to get auto parts. They ship right to you and it’s great for project cars when it’s ok to wait for the parts to arrive. Here’s what found: amzn.to/2TQ3xTr
Had same issue, i have checked the intake manifold gasket and seems its fine. Also added some gasket maker on the intake manifold to be sure. Also cleaned IACV and throttle body. Replaced pcv valve as well. No luck....just checking, so its not your TPS and IACV that fixed it right?
Got the same problem but wayyyy more drastic with my 2000 alero sprayed the maf sensor just in case sounds like this’ll be pricey because that’s something I definitely can’t fix without some serious help
Do you happen to be my neighbor? I just moved to a new place and my neighbors car revs up and down and up and down and up and down every morning. I was wondering why they were doing it, maybe to warm it up quicker. But I realized the sound was too consistent. 😂
Man I never would have thought to even check that. I hope you can respond to this if you have knowledge about. I'm having a similar issue with revving too high mine actually sits in between 1500 and 1800 idling. But when I'm driving my car won't rev past 2600 RPM. Any thoughts? I've replaced every intake sensor, can and crank sensor, unclogged the cat (which was bad) and I'm still having these issues.
Depending on the year of the vehicle sometimes they just need to have their idle “relearned”. I fixed a strange issue in our 08 Corolla with a simple re training of the computer idle. Maybe it’s just that easy. Google search for idle reset and you make/model. Hope this helps.
Appreciate that! We ended up selling this car about 5 years ago. Strange cuz this is my number one video on my channel. Over a million views! That's crazy to me!!! Now about the Nova!!!! I wanna know more about that!!! ;)
Hi buddy great video you have me thinking now here's my problem. U.k Vauxhall Astra Sri 2010 when warmed up if I go into 1st gear engine revving up to 3 I can not find the cable any were but I'm going to check the things I seen on your video and see if it works🤞
06 TL 142,600 miles. Just did a major service on it and have a new egr valve to put on still but mine goes up like 300 rpms every 30 seconds or so in park 🤔
great video man thankyou! My '98 coupe is just hunting a little but it's not right. TPS is fine. Your video leads me to IAC next check. What code reader are you using?? I need one but having trouble finding out which ones work & i'm hoping it would be same as yours! My coupe is 2.0l G4GF RD2. Tried an ELM 327 bluetooth thingy a while ago but could not get it to read
I use the Innova 3120f - www.amazon.com/Innova-BLUETOOTH-Engine-Battery-vehicles/dp/B06Y5MDLX4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?crid=235I50WOX0X45&keywords=innova+3120f&qid=1552885848&s=gateway&sprefix=innova+3120f,aps,293&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=diyhomeandaut-20&linkId=deec17b6cd4a00bcc646b9f149f9a252&language=en_US
The Innova 5023 is also a solid option with a few less features and a more affordable price - www.amazon.com/Innova-5023-CarScan-Reader-Freeze/dp/B076N5V6SN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=innova+5023&qid=1552885893&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=diyhomeandaut-20&linkId=5f7fccb1c575aeed81bcc0c96b2eb1cc&language=en_US
Check engine light did come on, I mention the codes I got with mine. I've heard others say they didn't see any codes or lights, just a rough or inconsistent idle. It depends on how bad the air leak is, mine was pretty bad!
I cleaned the TB unit, still the rpm is at 650 on idle on hyundai i20. Now, I checked for resistances of each 4 ignition HT cables. The 4th wire being the shortest is supposed to have lowest value, however, it reads 8.8 ohm which is very much higher than all the 3 wires..2.4,.2.0, 1.8 respectively. Is the 4th wire leading to drop of rpm to 650??? Awaiting reply. Thanks.
4:38 to 10:02 Another perfectly good white t-shirt full of grease and oil. I'm sure glad that I'm not the only one to do this... (for me... on a regular basis) Thanks for the great video. I'll be chasing down the same vacuum leak this weekend.
Hey I do the same for my daughters car , but dude I don’t just spend money throwing parts at it ! I do the research and read the codes as well , and make sure it’s defective before replacing. It can expensive quick ..I believe you might have needed a idle relearn after replacing the tps...along with the iac valve which you usually just clean it..clean out the throttle body it’s probably dirty as well. That other sensor you unplugged as well appears to be a map sensor ? Not sure., cause I didn’t see a mass airflow sensor..
My hyundai elantra 2013 does this at 800-1000 rpm but it seems to only do it when the Air conditioner is on any idea? Also had a check engine for a downstream o2 sensors but after getting new spark plugs the check engine light is gone. The reving problem was gone after new spark plugs but is back again. Also interior lights dim on and off
whats up bro love the video man so i just recently cleaned my throttle body on my 05 gmc sierra 5.3 just because i had no check engine light on for it before so after i cleaned it i installed everything back the right way and did the 3 minute idle re learn well tried now when i turn it on it warms up good but once it warms up it starts to surge the rpm goes up and down then when i put it in reverse or drive it revs up and going into gear or to reverse, drive any when i drive it and give it a little pull to see it it feels good i feel good normal power but as soon as i let go the gas now it stays reved up or accelerated then once i come to a stop the idle kind of goes down like slowly and just starts surging again do you think this could be my problem or what else do you think it can be i replaced air filter cleaned my maf sensor do you think this may be the cause of that before my truck wouldn’t do that it would die out coming to a stop though so i would just hold the gas to keep the idle from drop all the way and stalling the truck ?
Hey! I have almost exactly the same car, an AT 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and i have some issues with the transmission. First, the car recognises the 3rd gear as part of the D gear and the 2nd gear as part of the L gear, instead of each being independent. And also, what no one has been able to find an explanation for so far, if the car has just been started, you have the "option" of flooring it and it going into some kind of "overdrive mode" where it is louder, faster, and if kept accelerating ca go until the rev limit before it shifts. Do you know what may be causing this?
Check fluid levels in the trans. Also visually inspect the fluid and smell it. It should be light red in color and be almost odorless. If it’s dark brown and smells bad you have likely burned your clutches.
@@troysgarage replacing the throttle body did the trick. I believe your information was on spot. Both the Idle air control valve, and the throttle position sensor that were on, were from my OLD motor. Because i just bought a crate motor. When we switched to the throttle body from the replacement engine, it ran beautifully. The only issue i still have is my oil pressure sensor has been acting up. Keeps saying im losing pressure but im not!
Glad you got the hard part sorted. For the oil pressure sensor it’s either a dirty connection or a failing sensor, but you probably already knew that. Nice work on the motor swap! 🙌🏼
I’ll bet you need to just have the idle reset. Google how to reset idle on your model. Likely something like “key on/off, then start and idle for 5 minutes, then repeat”. Don’t quote me on it but I’ll bet this fixes it.
Good info and did think it was leads as any malfunction begins in a lead corrosion or not oiled enough to for the cleaning car has modes in some models now modern cars
I got a bmw 1 series 2.0L diesel and 80% of the time when I turn the car on the idle revs drop every second and then come back up again it also does it when I drive so it feels like the car is jerking and pulling but I have no clue what it is and I can’t find anything similar anywhere can anyone help?
I’m no help on a Diesel engine unfortunately. Hopefully someone out there will see your question and can help. 🤷🏼♂️
I’m not sure how this guy diagnoses it
My saxo was revving itself and it wasn’t into any depth and wasn’t worth a twelve minute video to figure it out , go into a dark place with a torch get one of those small water bottles that’s you’d use to water plants , put it in mist mode and spray it at the engine and shining the torch at it , you can see where the waters being blown as mist and diagnoses where the air leak is , talking about gaskets and stuff whatever it’s just an air leak lol
@@thistownfails I think it’s a problem with my EGR
@@skenginmyblazer8190 I got a fabia vrs my egr is blanked off, if the car is revving it’s self it’s because a pipes leaking and it’s getting more air than fuel
I had a bearing going bad in the alternator. It would turn hard sometimes and smooth sometimes. When the bearing would hang up a bit it would pull the engine down causing the computer to open the throttle to find the idle point it wanted to see, when the bearing would smooth out it did the reverse causing the engine to speed up. As a result of the bearing doing that the engine would idle up and down erratically. There are bearings in the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, A/C compressor, tensioner pully, and idler pulley so any of these could cause this problem. Anytime you unplug the throttle body or remove it from the intake you have to reset the computer and let the car idle for about 15 minuets with no load so the computer can relearn the idle settings. This needs to be done when the vehicle is cold with no electrical load and up until the engine is warm so the computer can learn the different positions to hold the throttle body plate at different engine temperatures, that is why you need to let it idle for 15 minuets or so.
W. M be
Pm
I’m hook throttle boody?
Hello sir , yesterday I had the same problem, and after watching your video, I searched and found a leak in EGR tube causing the truble to my engine, and i fixed it, you saved me lot of time and money sir, so thank you very very very much.
Glad it helped! Good find too! Thanks for commenting that could help someone else out as well. 🙌
Nice to see father taking good care of his daughter 🙂!
Thanks man! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Fathers are important
Almost as important as Mothers. But it takes both to win the game sometimes.
If rather have a good mother than a good father. Because I did
Haha p.s. make your daughter fix the car. Opportunity missed
Finally a video with a 16 valve Hyundai engine repair with useful information.
Thanks! Glad this helped. 🙌🏼
Thanks u for this video that gave me another clue why my car is reving up and down and stalling then just dies before i start throwing parts at it
Glad to help! 👍🏼
Same issue in a 01 focus, no codes. Only thing I did before this was change the spark plugs 2 weeks before this issue.
You can take wd40 (non flammable) and spray it around all of the hoses and gaskets and when you hear the engine rpm's go up you have found you're leak.
To identify a vacuum leak is the issue before even wasting any time and money replacing sensors, hook up a scan tool and go to live data.
Go down to the short term fuel trims and see what % they are at.
If a vacuum leak is present, the fuel trims will be very positive anywhere from 5-25. This is the computer adding fuel to compensate for the lean condition the vacuum leak is causing.
press the throttle and hold it around 2000 rpm's. If the fuel trims go into negative or close to 0...you have a vacuum leak present.
This is because when you rev the engine, you are out of vacuum and in positive pressure.
Doing these procedures saves time, money and a dry scalp from scratching it too much.
.
Not the best thing to do with a exhaust leak
The issue is a vacuum leak not an exhaust leak. That said…. this type of testing should be done with caution. You are doing it at your own risk.
Spray water bottle with a heavy stream will be safer, you can hear it suck into the hole and car will sputter slightly. Slight steam clean of piston won't hurt it or use a smoke machine, some are near $100 now
@@menace1485 ... my smoke machine cost me $ 4.19 at the Smokers Shop. 1 corn cob pipe !
Legend video. Man newer cars ain't built how they used to build em. Cars are a head ake now lol
You ain’t kidding!!! Thanks for the kind words! Means a lot. 🙌🏼
I love the way that video ends “I Love Manuals!”
Truth!!! 🙌🏼
Me too!
When sporadic idle, usually it's the " Idle Air Control Valve " or something to do with Air. Check for Air / Vacuum Leaks or Idle Air Control Valve not opening / closing correctly. Another possibility... Throttle Position Sensor or Throttle Body / Butterfly not closing correctly or dirty.
Yup, that’s exactly what this video is all about.
So like. How do we fix this?
@@adrianprinsloo5930 - Reread my post again and again. You will know HOW to fix it after reading !!! *
You are a better Dad & mechanic than I am. Same problem but there's no way I can do all that.
Fake it till you make it. 😜
Nobody is the best at something the first few times they try.
You can also try cleaning the IAC valve, that problem happens just because the inner mecanism is getting sticky and the ECM can't handle it smoothly.
Great tip! But.... that didn't solve my issue. I chased it with parts and cleaning until I got to the root cause - intake manifold gasket.
this guy is good,one of the best youtube on line,very good info !!
Thanks for the kind words! 🙌🏼
Does this work for recent models, I’m having a similar issue but it also feels like it’s losing power when I’m driving around with a little vibrations too
He said schwing !!!! Very thorough garth
🤣
You're a good Father.
I miss mine.
My daughter presented me with her car exhibiting the same behavior. Thank you for sharing!
Hope this helps to resolve it. 🙏🏼
Your a great dad to your daughter 👍
I appreciate that
Her: "I love manual!" - Yes you did raise her right. My older sister is the same way and won't drive automatics. She just got a 2022 Mustang 5.0 6 spd, which caused me to get bit by the bug again and get my own manual Mustang too. Couldn't be happier after not having driven a manual for decades.
Automatic is boring! 🤣
Great job .. now do you have a video for the shocks.. My lady have a Hyundai 2005 we replaced the shocks but still have a bumping sound.. like to see how you do it
Bumping sound could be warn motor mounts or bushings on the control arms (assuming front is where the sound is coming from). Check those things first.
Try replacing bushing first it's super cheap and really common to cause a rather weird bouncing and cranking sounds
It's a 20 year old Hyundai. I am amazed it still runs. Given of course that I myself have a 15 year old car that runs very well, but it's a lexus. 20 years ago Hyundai was still learning how to effectively copy cars from Toyota.
You aren’t wrong. But even the older cars will last a long time is you take care of them.
They did nothing like Toyota. Calm down with this Toyota pride. Hyundai dorsnt make boring ass cars just like Toyota does. They cant even figure out how to bring back their one and only legend car, the Supra. They had to ask BMW about that.
Can’t argue with the Supra comment! I was super excited when it was announced, then disappointed when I found out it was a rebrand! They could have done something epic and blew it! 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
@@RBZ06LT6 you cant be serious right now. Just like in the 70s toyota went after bmw and mercedes, in late 90s and early 2000 Hyundai went after Toyota. Their Equus was an identical replica of Lexus LS, for instance.
One way of figuring out if a leak is present is by blowing smoke from a cigarette into one of the tubes. Scotty Kilmer shows a video on engine leaks
that a nice one works with weed smoke XD
I used the throttle body cleaner method. Crank it up and start lightly spraying around the hose connections on the intake manifold. The vehicle will rev up if the cleaner gets into the manifold allowing you to pinpoint the leak
Sign language known the world over by diy mechanics to illustrate revs going up and down....wave hand around from the wrist.....sometimes accompanied with a sound impression to match 😂
Guilty as charged! 😜🤷🏼♂️
Haha, that is an imitation of the tach needle.
What did it for Me was the smile on Your face when You realized "hey - I think I just fixed it!" GREAT video!
Haha. Thanks! I remember how that felt. 😅
OMG!!!! I've been trying to find someone who had the same problem and made a video. THANK YOU!!
Glad I could help!
We had a similar problem in our 2001 Hyundai Elantra. As I can see it's more common than I thought. The car was already old when it started so we scraped it a couple months later. That was in 2011
We’ve babied this car along. My daughter is still driving it today. However it’s getting too scary for her now that she’s got a baby, it’s about time to upgrade and scrap this one. It’s been a great little car! 👍🏼
Bro i had the same issue with my 2004 accent...idle control broken..yesterday i removed d same and glued with good resin...now very fine...me too like u...im alone doing my all electric..electronic and auto. Myself....im so happy...u r doing like me...
issac joseph I love to fix things on my own. Learn new things! Good times!
This valve will get in Ali express for 8 dollar..I purchased and is now very nice..old one i kept safely..
Good vídeo, butt the end was awesome great father daughter moment ❤ thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much! She was super happy to have her own car back for sure!
Very Informative video Thanx! Have the same problem on my 2006 Opel Corsa 1.4. Also changed the tps, icv and checked for leaks, never thought of checking the manifold gasket!
Same problem with my corsa b 16v but only when the engine is warm and rmps drops when shifting gears sometimes it turns off.did you fix it?
Hey Nixon, I’m still driving with the problem, I’ve decided to take the head off as well to do valve stem seals, so still need to make time to fix it. I have replaced the tps, icv and map sensors, I would recommend trying that first, and if the problem still persist like in my case you must check the intake manifold gasket like in this video.
@@likebike2 maybe lambda sensor?
That can also be🤔We can always unplug it and see what happens if there is any difference, but it will definitely throw a fault code
@@likebike2 who know it can be many things.i will try with cleaning throttle body and IAC sensor
Awesome job. My 2005 is giving me some similar issues.
Thanks man! Hope this helps you resolve yours too. 🙌🏼
What was wrong with your 2005? I have a 2005 revving as well
Thanks so much I have this issue with my 2011 Acura MDX!! Been to the dealership for the run around.
Glad this helped.
My 335i was throwing several codes indicating throttle body circuit, throttle body valve stuck and both cam sensors. I disconnected the harness on my DME and found corrosion on pins. Cleaned them with vinegar and then reinstalled. The corrosion caused my 30 amp engine fuse (#37 on 07' 335i in the junction box under glove box) Replaced the fuse and it runs like a champ!
WOW!!!! That was a lucky find! Thanks for sharing that tip! Goes to show that even the simplest thing can cause our fancy cars to misbehave!
@@troysgarage I don't knoe about luck it took lots of reading and 2 days to find the problem. Tried lots of different solutions before checking the above.
Good call!!!! Sorry if I made it sound easy! I guess the lucky part was finally finding the answer. 🤷🏼♂️
How on Earth do i do that with my 2014 Nissan Versa Note?
@@davecrupel2817 Try to Google the engine fuse location, and engine wiring harness to find the dme, ecu, ( All the same thing to my knowledge). Then check the connectors and fuse.
Love your videos mate :-) I'm doing tonnes of work to my i30 2010 hyundai
Thanks! That means a lot! 🙌🏼
Worked great. Replaced the throttlebody mounting gasket and wallah!
Awesome!!! 🙌🏼
ive got a 2009 hyundai i30 thats just started doing this exact same thing. so glad i found this video. im going to check my intake manifold tomorrow! it was really starting to boggle my mind. i have zero vacuum leaks from my lines. fingers crossed i find the issue :)
It’s not a fun repair for sure but so satisfying to be able to fix things yourself. Glad this helped. Hope you identify and can get it resolved! 🙌🏼
@@troysgarage oh for sure its not fun, my intake is at the front so luckily i dont have to go under the car. though i still have to disconnect the coolant hoses/throttle body/ sensors and injectors. Unfortunately i didn't find any issues with the gaskets they look great actually. but i did find dirt on the fuel rail right where the seem is on the manifold, which i think might be actually a crack. damn plastic manifolds. Ive taken it out completely and gone around the seams with some silicone. Ill have to wait to add it back and see if it changes anything!
Good find though. Yeah those plastic manifolds are a little too cheap! Company saves money while the consumer pays the price later. 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Thanks Troy brilliant video and really helpful now need to sort my car out😂
One check at a time. I’m much better now at diagnosing these kinds of issues. I used to just throw parts at problems till they were fixed. (Parts cannon! Hahaha)
Let’s face it your motor sounds like it’s unhealthy anyway
awesome thankyou, I have the exact same problem with my 2001 Elantra! fantastic information and a great big help.
Awesome! Well, not that you had car trouble but that this helped! 😜👍🏼
Having the same problem w my honda, replaced the air valve yesterday with no luck, hopefully this can help 🤞🤞
Hope you find the issue. This wasn’t very fun. But satisfying once it was fixed!
I have a 2004 kia optima 2.4L with the same problem-wish u had a good video on removing/replacing it👍
The process is very similar but bolt locations would be a little different. I believe in you! Take a chance and save yourself a bunch of money. It’s very satisfying to complete a job like this on your own! 🙌🏼👍🏼
U on point bro thanks! I was lost my problem was similar
Yeah same but I'mma check the gasket tomorrow and see if it work
I have a 2011 Chevy Aveo5. Whenever I'm in idle, hot or cold, the engine will drop to it's normal 800rpms for a brief few seconds before "surging" up and down, all the way down to 200rpms. If I don't press the accelerator, the engine will drop to 0 and quit.
I've replaced the MAF, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the sparkplugs. I have a 'too lean' code, and a low voltage code for bank 1 sensor 1. Can't for the life of me figure out what is causing this, but I know I don't want to spend $1000 at a mechanic shop. Does this issue sound like anything you've dealt with in other cars?
Too lean is exactly what this video uncovers. You have a huge vacuum leak somewhere.
My golf VI TSI 2009 1.4 manual makes a loud revving sound. I'll give you the scenario when this happens -
I've been driving for 10 minutes minimum and then be idle in some traffic. The car will rev for 3 seconds as though I've put my foot flat on the accelerator and then decelerate (no movement of car (this sound will happen regardless of me being in gear 1 or neutral)). There will be no movement on my dashboard tachometer. This will occur again and again (every 30 seconds) so long as I sit in traffic.
*very good video in my case my ford taurus when I turn it on the rpm goes up to 1500 and then goes down to 600 and goes up and down but when it heats up it stops doing that, the codes show me injector number 3 and maf sensor or it could be the iac valve ? my car has these symptoms when it's cold when it's hot it does little*
Before you changed your old idle air control valve, did turning the ac on made the engine run wilder? Or the rpm does jmmediately when the ac compressor kicks in?
Yes it did. I might not use the term “wildly” but it was a noticeable change when AC kicked on.
Thank you so much! Keep posting these videos. Really helped me out alot.
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Love those csi-miami-style click n wink n fingershoot
Lool I watched the vid before I read the description.. I thought, wow it does pretty much the same thing as my Hyundai Tiburon... Actually, it's almost exactly the same as my Hyundai Tiburon...
Damn, it's totally replicating my Tiburon......
Cheers for the help man!
Hahaha. Good one. Yup same engine. 🙌🏼
My Honda S03 civic does this. My mechanic replaced my intake with an bottle intake and said it will resolve the issue. The issue got worse. The jumping of the revs.. 2k to 1k then 2k again. Its very annoying. I need help. Cause it doesn't seem like they know what they are doing
Nicely done! Im glad it all worked out for you!
Yes! Thank you!
Impressive repair! Great video!
Thanks man! I’m no mechanic, but I’m learning as I go. Hoping to help others do the same.
Wow thanks for sharing obd code's. Now I can easily check it myself
Glad it helped. 👍🏼
oh boy I got a similar issue but it happens randomly and only increases and dips revs about 100+ up and down. I think I might have the same issue.
I noticed this on my car when I’m going about 30 mph the RPM moves a little bit up and down I’m not sure what the problem is
Could be the throttle position sensor. But that’s a total guess. Something to check though.
Thanks bro got the same prob 2005 sonata. Gotta try this i guess. A lot of work. By the way, chunks are coming off of my steering wheel too! Freaking hyundais!
We were down to bare metal on the top side of the wheel. I finally put one of those cheap covers over it. Maybe should have done that years sooner and saved the wheel. 🤷🏼♂️
I have a 2000 Impala my son just bought for $500 due to an exploded intake plenum. After replacing the destroyed parts (plenum, upper intake gasket, MAP sensor, IAC and a few other misc things), only code I’m getting is the p0507 and the same exact pulsating idle that you had. I haven’t yet replaced the lower intake gasket nor the head gasket or valve cover gaskets. Taking it in to have a proper diagnostic done before I dig that deep. Hopefully it’s just an ECM programming issue.
So was it a programming issue? You’ve got me curious. 🤷🏼♂️
@@troysgarage sorta! The shop ran their diagnostic tools on it and determined I had a bad ECM/PCM. I ordered a new one flashed to my VIN for about $150 and got it installed. I had to do a Crank Position Relearn procedure (which you’re supposed to do if you install a new ECM and/or replace your Crank and/or Cam sensors - I did all of the above) via my ODB scan tool and after that my idling problem seems to have cleared up.
Dude..that was a great video. I also have a 2001 with the same issue. Until I fix it with confidence thanks too you dad. 👍
That’s the goal for sure
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, oxygen sensor tests, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, Emission readiness test, and MORE! It retains the memory of test results. It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. The screen is well-lit. It comes in a black pouch. A Actron CP9680 is for OBDII only. It's the same tester. Get 4 aaa batteries, not included, for under the rear cover. Warm or drive the car first. Check the radiator and oil.
One hell of a fix brother!!!!! Major Props!!! Kudos! :)
Thanks man. This one just about had me stumped. 😱
Thank you very much for your video, it helped me a lot. I wanted to know if you have the part number for the intake gasket? since in my locality I cannot find the spare part. thank you. Greetings.
This is it right here: amzn.to/2YAll7u
At least you got Codes mine does this with Zero Codes
I know it's not a Vacuum leak and its not IAC or MAP or TPS
I am able to stop the revving by Putting the car in (R) or (D)
Nothing else stops it!
I can not afford to bring it to a garage and Don't have any Sophisticated Scanners except OBD2
Crap! That’s no good. Did it start suddenly like out of the blue or get worse over time? Bad gas maybe? Add some fuel treatment with your next tank? I’m grasping for something that might help. Sorry brother! 🤷🏼♂️ If you figure it out reply back so we all can learn from it. 👍🏼
@@troysgarage Nope it's been going on for years.
I can't remember when it started but I know when it did, I thought "Vacuum leak" or "sensor"
It seems like it came way back when my radiator was leaking.
Then the car sat for 2-3 year's
Everything that had caused a Check engine light has been fixed.
That only consisted of the Cam shaft Sensor.
But I have replaced every sensor besides the O2's
I love this Car I always wanted a Chrysler 300m and I finally got one that has otherwise been such a great car to me. Never ever left stranded 167000 - 203000 miles now and most repairs have been preemptive maintaining
and of course the Idle.
Well, at least it’s a reliable vehicle. Seems more like an annoyance than a break down. 🤷🏼♂️ Maybe someone else will see your comments and have an idea you can try. Sorry man! Hope you can find a resolution! 🙌🏼
Wow. That is great work. I have a same problem with my Honda Accord. I dont think I can do it myself as I am not that knowledgeable with car. I hope it does not cost me fortune. Thanks for sharing the video.
QAJUSSI your welcome. Hope it helps! 👍🏼
Give it a go my man. You'd be surprised what you can achieve following videos like this on TH-cam. There's almost certainly gonna be detailed ones for your exact car too!
Well said! I also use videos to learn. In fact that’s how my channel got started. I watched a video and said to myself “I could do a better video than that!” Then I made myself prove it. Haha. I’ve gotten better with time and experience too. Do’t be afraid to try! 🙌🏼🕺🏼
@@troysgarage thanks mate, found this one real helpful. Just got myself a Yaris Verso (big ugly Vitz/Echo I think it's called over there) for my family as I've spent the past year working on my own Toyota's thanks to TH-cam vids. Paid very little for it, it's quite beat up but it's got pretty low mileage and is solid. Took a few hours to fix little issues which cost nothing to fix (fuses, dodgy cabling, and pinching a few things off an old Yaris I've got laying around I'm using for parts). I've got a p0505 which is the idle air control valve. I cleaned the throttle body while on the car, and found somebody had taped over the hole inside it lol. I guess this was a temp 'fix' in the past?! Removed the tape and sprayed the TB which has caused it to start revving between 1500-2000rpm at idle. It was just over 1000 before and never changed. I figure I've gotta get the TB assembly off the car and take a closer look, maybe check the wires with a multi meter too in case they're faulty. The idle air control valve probably needs a good clean and test itself. I never even thought of disconnecting it and starting the car til I saw this vid to see what happens so I'll try that in the morning. It's a bit of a bitch to get at, unlike the 1litre parts car I've messed with which had an acre of room either side of the TB.
I remember the anxiety the first time I did an oil change, then filters, then plugs.... Then I realised how much I was actually enjoying it and as long as you've got time set aside (or a spare car ;) ) you're never in a rush and finding solutions to problems is very rewarding, especially when it's not costing you a fortune. Done brakes, loads of stuff under the hood and a fair few electrical bits and pieces since and feel more confident every time. With TH-cam and a bit of time anyone can work on their cars!
My car recently started idling rough. It normally idles around 1,000rpm. Now if I am sitting idling for a few minutes (when the engine is warm) it would drop down to below 500rpm and sound like it is about to die before coming back up to normal. It would repeat several times then run normally for a while before repeating. If anyone knows what might be wrong I would appreciate your reply
Did you fix it yet? How did you fix it? I'm equally in this same shoes, pls help out
@@jotieangbenia4307 nope, it just stopped doing it so I'm gonna pretend nothing happened and start saving up for a new vehicle
So my g35 revs up when I shift and then it goes but it feels forced I first noticed on second but now feel it in mostly all gears, no gear struggles to go in though. It it just the clutch giving out on me?
Great information thank you ... My car is having the same issue but no codes are coming up... Is there a way to figure out what's wrong do exist and everything and hope I get lucky
If no codes then I suspect a vacuum leak. Check all the hoses for cracks first then start looking at gaskets. Hope this helps.
How did you get the throttle position sensor out? Hyundai put this in a very odd place?
i have a 2002 Honda Accord that i just bought as a project, when i turn it on after a while it starts to rev on its own just like yours showed in the video, i was planning on buying a new throttle body to see if that works but what do you think i should do
Check for vacuum leaks first. Parts may not solve the problem and some leaks are free to fix.
I'm having the same problem with my Honda civic lx! Were you able to fix the problem?
Please let me know how you fixed the problem on the 2000 Honda Civic LX!
Hello, thanks for your video. I also did all those tests and more and I can't find a solution, but now I'm going to try the one that you. made. I still ask you, otherwise it's the intake gasket, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8 liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, I clarify that you cannot take out the IAC valve to clean but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were spotless. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. The same if I disconnect the PCV valve and it idles at 200 rpm until it shuts off. Could it be a fault in the EGR vacuum valve or Crankshaft Sensor and cams (CKP and CMP)?
yuup sounds like you chased this like I chased mine. Seems like you are getting extra air introduced post sensor so it could be intake gasket. No other vacuum leaks anywhere you can find? If not the intake gasket is the likely culprit. Sorry, not very fun to chase these but you'll be thrilled when it works!
@@troysgarage Hello, thank you very much for answering. I thought it may be the PSV valve that was never changed in the 230 thousand kilometers it has. When I disconnected it from the hose there the revolutions dropped, oscillating between 300 and 500 rpm's. I wonder could it be the valve? I put my hand and covered it and it went back up to 2000 rpm's. , then I disconnected and saw that air coming from the crankcase comes out of the PSV, I suppose, and it is possible that it is open and already defective?
Sounds like you found it! Also be glad cuz intake gaskets are a lot more work to swap. 😅
@@troysgarage Thank you! Hopefully that's it, I already bought a new original and I'm waiting for it to arrive, when I have the new one I'll try it and tell you how it went. Greetings
Excellent analytics. I have 85 Honda Preude. In a barn and started and raced to 4000 rpm and then drops and stalls and backfires intermittently. I fear now that you have solved the issue but getting a gasket here in UK is impossible and its a hell of a job..ugh...
Not sure if this is an exact match. But Amazon is a great place to get auto parts. They ship right to you and it’s great for project cars when it’s ok to wait for the parts to arrive. Here’s what found: amzn.to/2TQ3xTr
Very good troubleshooting practise. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks man! Appreciate the kind words. 🙌🏼
Non-chlorinated brake clean is best to use to find vacuum leaks. It evaporates quickly, yet is very flammable.
Truth!
what does it do if it finds a leak? different color?
No it revs consistently at when sprayed on that spot.
Had same issue, i have checked the intake manifold gasket and seems its fine. Also added some gasket maker on the intake manifold to be sure. Also cleaned IACV and throttle body. Replaced pcv valve as well. No luck....just checking, so its not your TPS and IACV that fixed it right?
chanrio1308 try cleaning/replacing MAF sensor
So smooth display and illustration to the fix. Thumbs up
Thanks man! Means a lot. 🙌🏼
Great dad , looking out for your daughter !!
Thanks 👍
Got the same problem but wayyyy more drastic with my 2000 alero sprayed the maf sensor just in case sounds like this’ll be pricey because that’s something I definitely can’t fix without some serious help
Thanks alot, im gonna check this on my car that has been doing this for months.
Glad to help. 👍🏼
Do you happen to be my neighbor? I just moved to a new place and my neighbors car revs up and down and up and down and up and down every morning. I was wondering why they were doing it, maybe to warm it up quicker. But I realized the sound was too consistent. 😂
@@OGbqze probably not i sold that car like 2 weeks ago
🤣🕺🏼
Man I never would have thought to even check that. I hope you can respond to this if you have knowledge about. I'm having a similar issue with revving too high mine actually sits in between 1500 and 1800 idling. But when I'm driving my car won't rev past 2600 RPM. Any thoughts? I've replaced every intake sensor, can and crank sensor, unclogged the cat (which was bad) and I'm still having these issues.
Have you solved this and how did you solve it?
Depending on the year of the vehicle sometimes they just need to have their idle “relearned”. I fixed a strange issue in our 08 Corolla with a simple re training of the computer idle. Maybe it’s just that easy. Google search for idle reset and you make/model. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing...now, about the chunk that's missing on the steering wheel? Go get a newer used one .
Appreciate that! We ended up selling this car about 5 years ago. Strange cuz this is my number one video on my channel. Over a million views! That's crazy to me!!! Now about the Nova!!!! I wanna know more about that!!! ;)
Going very well, with your work! Great video, thank you, Troy!
Thanks man!
Happy you found the fix!
The fix is always the last thing you try! Haha. I was hoping it was an easier fix, but I did finally get it! 👍🏼
Hi buddy great video you have me thinking now here's my problem. U.k Vauxhall Astra Sri 2010 when warmed up if I go into 1st gear engine revving up to 3 I can not find the cable any were but I'm going to check the things I seen on your video and see if it works🤞
I love manuals .. that’s what you want to hear from your kids ❤
So true! Raised her right! 🙌🏼
06 TL 142,600 miles. Just did a major service on it and have a new egr valve to put on still but mine goes up like 300 rpms every 30 seconds or so in park 🤔
great video man thankyou! My '98 coupe is just hunting a little but it's not right. TPS is fine. Your video leads me to IAC next check. What code reader are you using?? I need one but having trouble finding out which ones work & i'm hoping it would be same as yours! My coupe is 2.0l G4GF RD2. Tried an ELM 327 bluetooth thingy a while ago but could not get it to read
I use the Innova 3120f - www.amazon.com/Innova-BLUETOOTH-Engine-Battery-vehicles/dp/B06Y5MDLX4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?crid=235I50WOX0X45&keywords=innova+3120f&qid=1552885848&s=gateway&sprefix=innova+3120f,aps,293&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=diyhomeandaut-20&linkId=deec17b6cd4a00bcc646b9f149f9a252&language=en_US
The Innova 5023 is also a solid option with a few less features and a more affordable price - www.amazon.com/Innova-5023-CarScan-Reader-Freeze/dp/B076N5V6SN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=innova+5023&qid=1552885893&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=diyhomeandaut-20&linkId=5f7fccb1c575aeed81bcc0c96b2eb1cc&language=en_US
Did the check engine light ever come on? Or can you get error codes even when the check engine light never came on?
Check engine light did come on, I mention the codes I got with mine. I've heard others say they didn't see any codes or lights, just a rough or inconsistent idle. It depends on how bad the air leak is, mine was pretty bad!
I cleaned the TB unit, still the rpm is at 650 on idle on hyundai i20. Now, I checked for resistances of each 4 ignition HT cables. The 4th wire being the shortest is supposed to have lowest value, however, it reads 8.8 ohm which is very much higher than all the 3 wires..2.4,.2.0, 1.8 respectively. Is the 4th wire leading to drop of rpm to 650??? Awaiting reply. Thanks.
I don’t have any idea. Sorry. Hopefully another viewer can chime in to help out.
4:38 to 10:02 Another perfectly good white t-shirt full of grease and oil. I'm sure glad that I'm not the only one to do this... (for me... on a regular basis) Thanks for the great video. I'll be chasing down the same vacuum leak this weekend.
Yup I underestimated how messy this would get. It escalated quickly! 🤷🏼♂️
Brilliant Thankyou for taking the time to make the video
Thanks for the kind words. Glad this has helped so many people! 👍🏼
Hey I do the same for my daughters car , but dude I don’t just spend money throwing parts at it ! I do the research and read the codes as well , and make sure it’s defective before replacing. It can expensive quick ..I believe you might have needed a idle relearn after replacing the tps...along with the iac valve which you usually just clean it..clean out the throttle body it’s probably dirty as well. That other sensor you unplugged as well appears to be a map sensor ? Not sure., cause I didn’t see a mass airflow sensor..
i have the same car but on manual and have the exact same problem man will replace the same parts to see if it helps
Here’s hoping you can resolve it. We ended up doing a cracked exhaust manifold as well about a year later.
My hyundai elantra 2013 does this at 800-1000 rpm but it seems to only do it when the Air conditioner is on any idea? Also had a check engine for a downstream o2 sensors but after getting new spark plugs the check engine light is gone. The reving problem was gone after new spark plugs but is back again. Also interior lights dim on and off
If your daughter loves manuals, you know you haven't failed
Fact!
Youre amazing papa! Good job.😘😎
Thanks. She’s a good kid and worth it.
whats up bro love the video man so i just recently cleaned my throttle body on my 05 gmc sierra 5.3 just because i had no check engine light on for it before so after i cleaned it i installed everything back the right way and did the 3 minute idle re learn well tried now when i turn it on it warms up good but once it warms up it starts to surge the rpm goes up and down then when i put it in reverse or drive it revs up and going into gear or to reverse, drive any when i drive it and give it a little pull to see it it feels good i feel good normal power but as soon as i let go the gas now it stays reved up or accelerated then once i come to a stop the idle kind of goes down like slowly and just starts surging again do you think this could be my problem or what else do you think it can be i replaced air filter cleaned my maf sensor do you think this may be the cause of that before my truck wouldn’t do that it would die out coming to a stop though so i would just hold the gas to keep the idle from drop all the way and stalling the truck ?
Sounds like an air leak somewhere past the MAF sensor.
@@troysgarage okay thank you i will check it out
Hey! I have almost exactly the same car, an AT 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and i have some issues with the transmission. First, the car recognises the 3rd gear as part of the D gear and the 2nd gear as part of the L gear, instead of each being independent. And also, what no one has been able to find an explanation for so far, if the car has just been started, you have the "option" of flooring it and it going into some kind of "overdrive mode" where it is louder, faster, and if kept accelerating ca go until the rev limit before it shifts. Do you know what may be causing this?
Check fluid levels in the trans. Also visually inspect the fluid and smell it. It should be light red in color and be almost odorless. If it’s dark brown and smells bad you have likely burned your clutches.
Good job but did you figure out the rattle sound?
Never did figure that out.
Having this problem with my 99 gmc sierra rn. Just replaced the motor. Think ill replace the air control valve on the throttle body next
Hope you can figure it out. If it continues to surge at idle it’s likely an air leak somewhere.
@@troysgarage replacing the throttle body did the trick. I believe your information was on spot. Both the Idle air control valve, and the throttle position sensor that were on, were from my OLD motor. Because i just bought a crate motor. When we switched to the throttle body from the replacement engine, it ran beautifully. The only issue i still have is my oil pressure sensor has been acting up. Keeps saying im losing pressure but im not!
Glad you got the hard part sorted. For the oil pressure sensor it’s either a dirty connection or a failing sensor, but you probably already knew that. Nice work on the motor swap! 🙌🏼
Hey man please help me. When I start up my car at cold start, it revs up and down slowly but when it warms up it’s back to normal. What can it be?
Sounds like an old school choke issue. Had a lawnmower back in the 80’s that did this. 🤷🏼♂️
Have the same problem with a 2001 Camry. O2 sensor just replaced, and removed a family of critters from air filter.
I’ll bet you need to just have the idle reset. Google how to reset idle on your model. Likely something like “key on/off, then start and idle for 5 minutes, then repeat”. Don’t quote me on it but I’ll bet this fixes it.
@@troysgarage yes I did that, no effect
Thanks for helping! Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated 👍
Good info and did think it was leads as any malfunction begins in a lead corrosion or not oiled enough to for the cleaning car has modes in some models now modern cars