@@imho7250 I’m using a iPhone and the old ANT BMS app don’t work. I’m trying to use the new ANT BMS but it only tries to connect to the BMS. Nothing else
Yes, but the bricks should be well matched in INTERNAL RESISTANCE and SELF-DISCHARGE, as well as CAPACITY. I’m using it on 20s6p (30AH) LiFePO4 battery, which I matched IR and Capacity well but did not test all cells for self-discharge, so each day one brick needs to be brought back up. The ANT can easily do this as long as its charged daily and then it enters autobalance to discharge all the other bricks. The limitation of the ANT is its only 0.1a passive balance. (Even though the app says is .2a, its just .1a). This is more than enough for a well matched battery but if your battery is charged at a high rate you might need more balancing capability. The JK BMS comes in several versions which have from 0.6a to 2a active balancing. So it’s significantly better than the ANT because all the high cells are drained into the low cells, so it balances fast and efficiently. With the ANT passive balance you basically have to charge every brick until the lowest brick gets to the value you want, while slowly bleeding off the extra and turning it into heat. If you want the most flexibility in your power storage battery then the 200a discharge, 2a balance JK BMS, which supports 8s-24s for your battery. Then once you get the initial top balance and test to see what the max cell difference is during peak charge rate of your solar/charger, then you can set the active balance at the lowest setting that keeps up with the differential. The ANT BMS will work but your battery should not have any brick self discharging too much or the BMS will never catch up during the charge cycle. If the charge rate is very high, the internal resistance needs to be low and matched or else the high IR cell voltage will go above the high discharge cell voltage and you will be bleeding the wrong cell, and then when charged stops the high IR cell will drop below the other cells. Passive balance cant fix it but active balance can easily bring that one cell back up, even after charge cycle has ended.
The first time you balance after making the pack it can take a ridiculous amount of time, so I always manually balance with a hobby charger first. The balance resistor can only bleed 0.1a max (even though they call it 200 milliamps), so if you have a 20ah battery, it’s going to take a long time. But the good news is, you can charge it up until the first brick reaches 4.1-4.2 volts, unplug the charger, click START AUTOBALANCE, and it wil keep going until its done. If you have a good battery, after the first time, it just takes a little while to balance it for maintenance.
@@MrDeceptacon88 , yes, and thats 3x faster than a regular BMS. Lol. If your battery is 💩 or LiFePO4, sometimes a bms with active balancing can help, they balance at 0.6a to 2a, very fast. But a good battery doesn’t need that. I have my balance current set at 0.020a now because it’s all i need. With a smart BMS, balance is best initiated manually if you see excessive differential during idle (5 minutes without charging or running the motor.). That way you will notice if something is wrong. But it can be set to do everything automatically for those who don’t want to do it.
@@imho7250 do you mean the Ant bms is 3x faster than normal bms units? Also You said a smart bms is best when initiated manually..do you mean just manually pushing the start autobalance tab??
@@MrDeceptacon88 , the ant can be set 20-100 milliamps, while basic bms are fixed at 30 or 50 ma. The basic BMS will only balance when the cell is over 4.2v, but the ANT can be at any voltage, even storage voltage of 3.8v/cell, and you can click Auto Balance and it will balance every brick to within 0.000v if you want. Default is 0.020v differential start balance and 0.005v differential end balance. But thats only during charging and only if you set the start balancing voltage low enough. Currently I have my balance limit voltages set at 4.3v so they will never start automatically. I just look at the cell voltages and decide if and when to balance. In practical use, you would fully charge the battery, and fully balance it at the top, then ride it until it’s about 3.4v/cell and let it sit idle for a few minutes and make sure the differential voltage is still under 0.020v , which means all the bricks have matched mah capacity. If differential climbs up to 0.100v then there is a problem. Thats how I found a bad cell in my 13s5p battery because the differential climbed too fast and also showed up during acceleration. So the smart BMS is valuable in keeping the battery healthy
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Which BMS do you need for this app??
ANT BMS
How you get it to work for the iPhone?
Download or update the app in the app store
If you have a very old ANT bms you might need to use one if the old Android APK apps to be able to enter the password and change settings.
@@imho7250 I’m using a iPhone and the old ANT BMS app don’t work. I’m trying to use the new ANT BMS but it only tries to connect to the BMS. Nothing else
Cześć, czy takie ustawienia BMS można zastosować w magazynie energii, gdzie pojemność jednego ogniwa to 220ah magazyn w układzie 16s2p 48V
Pozdrawiam
Yes, but the bricks should be well matched in INTERNAL RESISTANCE and SELF-DISCHARGE, as well as CAPACITY.
I’m using it on 20s6p (30AH) LiFePO4 battery, which I matched IR and Capacity well but did not test all cells for self-discharge, so each day one brick needs to be brought back up. The ANT can easily do this as long as its charged daily and then it enters autobalance to discharge all the other bricks.
The limitation of the ANT is its only 0.1a passive balance. (Even though the app says is .2a, its just .1a). This is more than enough for a well matched battery but if your battery is charged at a high rate you might need more balancing capability.
The JK BMS comes in several versions which have from 0.6a to 2a active balancing. So it’s significantly better than the ANT because all the high cells are drained into the low cells, so it balances fast and efficiently. With the ANT passive balance you basically have to charge every brick until the lowest brick gets to the value you want, while slowly bleeding off the extra and turning it into heat.
If you want the most flexibility in your power storage battery then the 200a discharge, 2a balance JK BMS, which supports 8s-24s for your battery.
Then once you get the initial top balance and test to see what the max cell difference is during peak charge rate of your solar/charger, then you can set the active balance at the lowest setting that keeps up with the differential.
The ANT BMS will work but your battery should not have any brick self discharging too much or the BMS will never catch up during the charge cycle.
If the charge rate is very high, the internal resistance needs to be low and matched or else the high IR cell voltage will go above the high discharge cell voltage and you will be bleeding the wrong cell, and then when charged stops the high IR cell will drop below the other cells. Passive balance cant fix it but active balance can easily bring that one cell back up, even after charge cycle has ended.
Thank
Hiw long did it take to balance?
The first time you balance after making the pack it can take a ridiculous amount of time, so I always manually balance with a hobby charger first. The balance resistor can only bleed 0.1a max (even though they call it 200 milliamps), so if you have a 20ah battery, it’s going to take a long time.
But the good news is, you can charge it up until the first brick reaches 4.1-4.2 volts, unplug the charger, click START AUTOBALANCE, and it wil keep going until its done. If you have a good battery, after the first time, it just takes a little while to balance it for maintenance.
@imho7250 thanks a lot...i didnt know it only balances at 0.1a ????
@@MrDeceptacon88 , yes, and thats 3x faster than a regular BMS. Lol.
If your battery is 💩 or LiFePO4, sometimes a bms with active balancing can help, they balance at 0.6a to 2a, very fast. But a good battery doesn’t need that. I have my balance current set at 0.020a now because it’s all i need.
With a smart BMS, balance is best initiated manually if you see excessive differential during idle (5 minutes without charging or running the motor.). That way you will notice if something is wrong.
But it can be set to do everything automatically for those who don’t want to do it.
@@imho7250 do you mean the Ant bms is 3x faster than normal bms units?
Also
You said a smart bms is best when initiated manually..do you mean just manually pushing the start autobalance tab??
@@MrDeceptacon88 , the ant can be set 20-100 milliamps, while basic bms are fixed at 30 or 50 ma.
The basic BMS will only balance when the cell is over 4.2v, but the ANT can be at any voltage, even storage voltage of 3.8v/cell, and you can click Auto Balance and it will balance every brick to within 0.000v if you want. Default is 0.020v differential start balance and 0.005v differential end balance. But thats only during charging and only if you set the start balancing voltage low enough.
Currently I have my balance limit voltages set at 4.3v so they will never start automatically. I just look at the cell voltages and decide if and when to balance.
In practical use, you would fully charge the battery, and fully balance it at the top, then ride it until it’s about 3.4v/cell and let it sit idle for a few minutes and make sure the differential voltage is still under 0.020v , which means all the bricks have matched mah capacity. If differential climbs up to 0.100v then there is a problem.
Thats how I found a bad cell in my 13s5p battery because the differential climbed too fast and also showed up during acceleration. So the smart BMS is valuable in keeping the battery healthy
How you have English on your app
Yes, mine is set for English, but there are still parts that only show as Chinese.