4 1/2 Hand Plane Smoother, review by Rob Cosman, Woodriver
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มี.ค. 2014
- this is the lastest plane offerings from Woodcraft, the 4 1/2 and the 5 1/2. In this review I take the plane from the box and get it ready to use. I also show and explain some of the latest features.
4-1/2 - robcosman.com/products/woodri...
5-1/2 - robcosman.com/products/woodri...
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I’m a recovering alcoholic. One of the reasons I’m so successful this time is that I found my passion for wood working again. I enjoy watching your videos. I’m starting fresh with a hole new life. Working very hard to save up money for all of the tools I’ll need to start small. Things like jewelry boxes, end tables, small dressers and work my way up to bigger furniture. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it is helping you. Reason enough for us to do it. God's speed Brother.
Rob, I can never thank you enough for your tutelage for me and my son (14 yo) over the years. He is now attempting your assembly bench because of your style of explaining and confidence. This video is a treasure and a huge reference. Thanks very much. Stay healthy! Dave
Rob, thank you for all your videos, I recently travelled to north America and was able to my hands on Woodriver Jackplane, I'm extremely happy with the quality, all your videos about how to set them up were very very helpful on getting the plane to work even better than I expected, a thousand times thank you!
I bought one of these planes from Rob a number of years ago. My experience with it is exactly as advertised. This video is a great resource for understanding the mechanics of handplanes. It’s an impressive tool.
I got a new 4 1/2 last week at the Woodcraft store in Atlanta. I have an Anant and a few Stanley planes and the Woodcraft right out of the box is as good or better than any of the others after a full tune up.
Very happy with this plane. Thanks for the tuning tips Rob. This one is a winner.
These are very well made planes.I must say he did a completely thorough unbiased review.
You're the man Rob! My first stop for hand tool knowledge.
Rob, Thank you this is the most informative plane video i have seen.
Stat was great to watch , I learned a lot ! I'm 73 yr's young & im sucking up sharing Wood Chisels &Wood planes Sharping!!! 👍👏🇺🇸
Very nice presentation all the people who were watching will be very happy to see you giving step by step guidance
Rob, this is SUPER lesson. I just bought 3 planers, but I have know ideas about it, but I saw most of wood workers have them and talk about them. I am new to woodworking, but want to create quality wood work. I have NOT built anything yet, except work station. Thank you for making this video and taken such a timely to explain everything about planer's parts. Have a wonderful day.
Rob, sorry I didn't get Woodriver from Woodcraft because I didn't know about Woodriver planes until now watching your video, but I am looking at the 4 pieces set of Woodriver. From what I saw from open box that you did on the video, it look very, very well done. My next purchase will be those set of hand planes.
Mai
Rob. Thanks for sharing. This is a great resource. It has been immensely helpful to me. Cheers!
I have just purchased a Wood River 5 1/2 and can confirm these are very good planes.
I am so impressed I am buying a 4 1/2 to compliment it.
I also own several LN planes that while even better made have regrettably become too expensive in Australia and out of reach.
Thanks Rob for a great video.
I just got a plane that was my father's, l stripped it did the things it needed l thought it was ok until l watched this, then l stripped it again doing basically what you did to this plane, what a difference now, and this plane just an old 60s plane called a Rapier no 400, but I'd say it's cutting now better than it prob ever did thanks to your true craftsmanship video. Thanks.
A very fine and informative video, from a craftsman who knows the tools of the trade.... Well done
Nice look at that fine looking plane. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. I didn't realize Wood River planes were that good. Thank you.
Great video, also a great plane. Thank You for sharing your skill and knowledge.
Was sharpening my 5-1/2 blade this weekend & the wife asked me something so I looked up. When I looked up to make eye contact I lifted the blade off the stone with my right hand and since I wasn't looking at my hands my left pointer then left ring finger both grazed the corner of the blade and ripped me open like a scalpel. No stitches needed, but a good reminder to focus on what I'm doing when I'm sharpening.
Great Video - decided to buy one and try........ they may not be LN class but with design improvements and the old bedrock heritage should be a step up from my old No 5 Stanley plane
I have had this plane for several years that I purchased brand new. It worked so well I was wondering if there had been some set up in the actual store I purchased it in however after watching this video, I think it’s just that it was well designed and I see that it has had some improvements since I purchased it.
Muy bueno Rob. Saludos desde Uruguay!
Excellent review, thank you.
Definitely improved my thoughts on woodriver; reconfiguring the totes a definite improvement over the stanley/baileys. Thanks for the info.
Thanks Rob, nice review.
Finest kind. Keep up the good work man
179.99 is still a bargain after sifting through multiple pages and reviews of competitors. Finding the sweet spot between affordable and 'worth the money'. Thanks for the hands on review!!!
I just bought this plane. Been using a $15 harbor freight no 4 for 2 years on odds and ends. But I’m interested in switching to only hand tools and cut out the machinery. Wow, didn’t know hands planes work this well. The good thing about the cheap plane is it made me learn a lot about wood grain. Now, this wood river plane will take it to the next level.
Great demo. I totally want one of these now. They really should hire you to market this thing, as it's clear that (A) you know this stuff cold and (B) you LOVE planes. This one is on my list of things to acquire now.
The Qiangsheng tote and knob are very comfortable and beautiful. The plane is heavier than I like. Overall a great plane at a great price. A lot less backlash than Stanleys. The sides are square to the sole for shooting.
Hey Rob, I just bought the cabinet makers set of WoodRiver planes. Set them up just as you have shown here. Awesome tools. I was pulling shavings just as you demonstrated. Thanks for all the great info you put in your videos.
you are welcome Scooter, Merry Christmas!
OK, I understand why you would check the sole flatness if there were a problem but the shavings you were getting already told us it's good to go.
Rob, you've proven that the Woodriver V3 planes can get the job done.
I took a few years off from woodworking. I'm breaking out the old Stanley's, a few L-N and Veritas tools and tuning/cleaning them while I'm enjoying your demonstrations.
I'm not in competition with anyone for "plane prestige." I have the money to add whichever manufacturer I want but some people don't. I'm going to buy a couple Woodriver planes just because I think there should be lower cost options in new production for people on a limited budget and I'd like to support that principle. (A local school teaches hand tool use to elementary school kids and I'll donate them to the class. I've done it with older planes that I refurbished in the past. ) I remember the frustration of fixing and fettling with the old Stanley tools. stripped threads, crooked adjuster lever arms, bent rods, chipped irons and caps... drives a guy nuts. Why we constantly tell new hand tool users to buy old iron confuses me when they can have success with minimal set up time, while a new product and have close to the same $ in the project.
Why you don't have another 100K subscribers kinda baffles me too.
Very good and convincing presentation. Have the Quangsheng chisel plane, and the build and the finish are top rung, at a sensible price. No doubt where future planes will come from. Quangsheng makes the Wood River planes.
I have to say this. Just picked a 5-1/2 about two months ago and was disapointed, Had to put quite a lot of work into the plane to get it working. Don't think at this point I would buy another Woodriver plane. I have other Woodriver planes that work well and I did not spend to much time getting them cutting smooth. I do like watching your videos. great content. Have a good one.
I have lots of planes but typically I use my Wood Rivers ,they are GREAT,well made planes and much cheaper than a lot of others.
Hi Rob, I live in Hawaii and everything bare metal will rust within days due to the salty breeze, anything steel. I've tried Honerite on my blades as per your this video and everything still rusted. I diluted it per instructions. I found that wiping it clean will completely remove the acid so now I use LPS 2 lube. Spray it on and let it dry. No rust problems anymore. Maybe you should promote this?
Hi Rob thanks for the great review! After much thinking I got one of these last month but I learned they are no longer using A2 steel which is kind of a bummer since if I buy another A2 steel blade and chip breaker combo most of the savings compared to LN/Veritas will be wiped off. Also looking at the commentaries below you mentioned they were in fact never made of A2 steel which is kind of confusing, maybe you should post a video update correcting the part where you mention A2 steel in order to help people make better buying decisions. Thanks!
Very nice improvements sir. Well done. Thank you. Definitely will consider buying.
You sharpen a lot sir. Have you noticed any improvement in sharpness/smoothness when you flatten the 16k stone with the 1000grit diamond trend stone compared to flattening it with the coarser shapton diamond lapping plate?
Thanks for the info 🔨
Whoa, new Woodriver plane! Congrats! :)
Hey Rob
I love all your videos and I also love all your dvd's one more side line job I will buy you saw Tajiks for all the videos
Hey Rob! What file did you use? I can't find a 'fine' file at my local box store, just a "coarse/medium to finish"..?
I just purchased a set, Low angle block, 4 1/2, and 5 1/2. Excited to start using them, thanks for all your great videos!
Rob: I think this product is on the right lines and I'm looking into buying some. One thing that could also make it stand out is if you look at the Footprint planes they have a small chromed plate under the lever cap that helps to prevent ware on the cap iron when the lever is engaged. Might be a good addition to the product?
question: you mention your float glass is 3/4" thick. Where did you get it from? Also what are the dimensions of the piece?
Impressive performance. Is there a way to tell from the packaging that the plane is the new version and not and older model?
is the new yoke interchangeable with the previous model (V.2) planes? Is the yoke available for purchase if so?
I just bought a v3 #4. I was surprised by the weight - it's heavier than my old Stanley #5s. Feels nice, haven't used it yet.
i'm curious if the hardened steel pins are in the v3 #4s. In the video, you only mention the #4 1/2 and #5 1/2.
Thank you.
Hmm. I didn’t know Woodriver made such a decent plane. You’ve convinced me to have a look. Thanks!
EXACT copy of my Stanley Bedrock 606 Apr19-10 Made 100 years ago.Wood River is Chinese . Quang Sheng . Renamed to fool westerners.Don't get me wrong I have these planes they ARE good but the renaming thing I just found out annoys me.
@@738polarbear - what do you mean they've been renamed? They can't call them "Stanley Bedrock" planes because they aren't made by Stanley.
Hi Rob...how can you tell if you're buying the updated spec. models, or previous issues ? I note the handle height/angle is one of the later mods you refer to ?
Thanks Rob. Entertaining and educational, as always :)
If you start planing from one end, won’t you usually leave a few mm of a peak at the start unless you start the blade from BEFORE the wood start? Is it recommended to plane from both sides to avoid this?
Could you please post the size (Product Code) for the Trend Diamond stone - want to get it for my new WoodRiver No 4, and Chisel set - Thanks for a great series and yes, the new models of Woodman planes are GREAT>
I'm sold. I want one!
All this prep work is necessary, and I approve. But won't some of it, particularly the edge filing, void the warranty?
Thank you
I have undiagnosed ADD/OCD and I polish the whole blade to a mirror finish( to the point you could use it to shave in if it were larger) back and front lol. Regardless of my on personal preference. Paul Sellers says you do not need to sharpen a blade beyond 250 grit I believe it was. Not when i first started (still a newbie really) I use to sharpen to 380 as I use sticky back auto body sandpaper on MDF. Now I sharpen to a much higer grit ( I get sand paper from lee valley that is in microns and then polish more with the higest grade polish for automotive finishes. So before i share what I find different in a higher degree of sharpness I will ask you what you find are the differences?
Very nice presentation
Looks like a nice plane Rob but how would it match up to the beautiful Lie-Nielson25th Anniversary Special Edition No. 4 1/2 Bronze Smoothing plane # 147/500 that I purchased from you 10 years ago at a trade show? I enjoyed hanging out at your booth and talking shop. You have helped me become a much better woodworker and for that sir I thank you.
I miss those days Doug, the show circuit was the highlight of my year. Internet sales are efficient but not near the fun. Hold on to your bronze, will only get more valuable.
Hi Rob, you may not see this, but in your testing, why retract the iron between the pine and the bird’s eye maple? If you knew you had such a translucent shaving on the pine, wouldn’t it still be perfect to begin work on the maple?
Nice instruction video
Rob, I just don't understand why this plane cannot be shipped to the US. Same on the woodcraft site. thanks for all the great videos...
Can I use the granite stone sold at Woodcraft instead of the float glass to dress the sole of my planes?
gorgeous shaving of a wood .😄
What is the woodcraft part number for this hand plane?
Rob secondo il tuo parere le pialle rider sono all'altezza delle luban? Girando diversi tutorial sono confuso 😕 grazie per eventuale risposta Ciao
Hi Rob,
Curious as to what grit of sand paper you have on the glass for the sole grind?
Thanks for the videos!
He said 320
Hey Rob, great vids! Just purchased a #6 Four plane from WoodCraft in North Carolina on a 2 day trip there based on your reviews. Anyhow, being I purchased this from the store, am I eligible for the free month to your videos? This is a great plane as you described and would be even better buy if I can follow more of your contact online! Thanks in advance!!
Is there a vid on jointing?
Very informative. I have a question on sharpening and going from coarse to finer grit stones. I was taught to always clean off the blade(or whatever) before foing to a finer grit to avoid contaminating the finer stone. I have recently been admonished by some for believing an old tale. What is the story with it..is cross contamination real and can it ruin a 1000 or finer plate/stone?
Thanks in advance
It is real; knifemakers, gem cutters and jewelers all guard against it to a certain extent. That said, the amount of people that don’t do it makes me think it’s not crucial. Strops definitely can’t have (much) grit on them though. I don’t keep it in a case, but I wouldn’t store it with the sandpaper either or cut sandpaper with scissors over my strop.
What is your opinion on Narex number four plane ? Will I be in trouble buying one as they no longer make them?
This looks like a great plane. I just (within the past 3 weeks) got a woodriver V3 no 4. Is the major difference simply the width of the blade, or are there subtle other changes?
BTW, GREAT and comprehensive review. Thus far I sm thrilled with the results I'm getting with my No. 4
Upon reading the comments, I'm reminded that I was told by a manager at Woodcraft that Lie-Neilsen assisted Woodcraft's product development department in having these planes made. Lie-Neilsen, so I was told, wanted out of supplying Woodcraft with their products. These are the planes which replaced them.
Woodcraft's first iteration of these planes were a good try, but nowhere near today's attention to detail and execution. Speaking to the dislike of the source of the manufacturer of these planes, I happen to be quite fond of Mujingfang wooden planes, once sold at Woodcraft. They're the best planes I've ever used. So, buy what you like and what you can afford.
where do you find glass like that?
Camera is moving excessively. Made me continuously adjust my focus, which is distracting. It might help to move back to capture the working area. Only zoom in when Rob gives a que. Otherwise, this video has given me additional insight into my choice for a first plane. Excellent!
Rob, as always, your videos are inspirational even when you promote a tool.
Question: does your 8000 grit Shapton stone has a crack in the middle? Visible from 7':30".
After having a 4 1/2 Stanley and a Record, as much as it is tempting, I'll stick to what I have for now.
As for other people I do encourage ALL the WoodRiver planes, I have #s 4,5 and 6.
Thanks for this video.
BTW, I'm still waiting for a gift from you...maybe one day with Gods will?
I'm glad Rob, Thanks.
Any chance you'd do a little talking on Woodcrafts offering on Pinnacle products? As much as I want a Starrett combo square, Pinnacle's offering seems like a happy medium between price and accuracy (as far as it's description, anyway). I just can't find any reviews or talking points about their products that seem legitimate.
Square is a square
Hi Rob. David from OR here. Do the current v3 No. 4s have these same features (hardened steel frog retention pins; rounded yoke pin; etc.)? Thank you and
Regards,
David
***** Thank you! -David
Nice explanation. Where can I buy this Wood River plane? Where to Norden and how much.
I'm also new in wood working and my 2 cheap planes sucks.
I'm presently working here in Saudi Arabia and do some small working here as hobby but I'm from Philippines.
Dear Mr. Rob, is it necessary to do all of those work for the new planer ???
For the average woodworker, no - except possibly for sharpening. For the person wishing to get the most out of their tool, then it is necessary, even for the highest end mass produced products.
Just got the Woodriver 4-1/2 from Woodcraft for Christmas. Is the offer of 3 months free membership still valid? If so, how does one sign up? By the way, right out of the box, excellent plane!
Thanks Rob!
Excuse me, where you bought these (17:30) planes?
Since this question wasn't directly answered, I'll link to the WoodRiver planes:
www.woodcraft.com/categories/planes
The one shown in this video is WoodRiver #4 1/2 Smoothing Plane:
www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-4-1-2-smoothing-plane
-But you might also be interested in the #5 1/2 Jack Plane here (see another video for this):
www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-5-1-2-jack-plane
I'd rather support WR over LN, because LN's markup is insane. Way too greedy!
debating btn 4 4.5 & 5. I got several old vintage 4s & 1930 craftsman #5.
gr8 video subbed
We were taught never to place the plane like that with blade down, always lay it sideways. woodworking lessons in school 🇬🇧👍
Ok Rob the laws of geometry negates the rounded surface creating less friction than a triangulated surface.(talking of the yoke) What you are saying in essence is that a sharp plane blade has less friction than a dull blade. One triangle the other rounded. Now what a rounded yoke does provide is less slack in adjustment by having more friction (contact surface) which is one thing I hate about my old stanleys/lie nielsens. So a question. has wood river incorporated this in all the their planes and at what point of time have they done this? I have come across wind river planes in yard sales etc but never bought one as they were above my usual $50 max for a plane. (unless collector value)
Since this video was done in 2014 have they brought the other planes up to the quality of the # 4 1/2 plane? If not how much longer do you think it will take? Another question is how do these planes compare with the Lie- Nielsen?
All the Woodriver are now V3 and that has been the case for 6 years. These planes perform as well, they last the spit polish of a LN but what are you willing to pay for over the actual functionality of the tool. your call.
Thank you, I have been looking at WR, LN, and LV planes. The LV planes have a weird adjustment for the side to side and the blade, I think I will drop them from consideration except for some specialty planes and I think the same for the LN. Wood craft has some deals on plane sets and I think I'll go that rout. By the way, have you seen their adjustable shooting board fence? It looks like it could be very useful.
Hi Rob
How do you adjust the frog on the WoodRiver planes. Not clear to me. Thanks, Dan.
Loosen the two frog locking screws, adjust the center screw as desired, then tighten the two locking screws.
I think the term you're looking for is "bigly thin!" which is thinner than thin.
Is your 8000 stone broken? Looks like a big crack all the way across. If so then you must have glued it back together, correct?
I don't think anyone still manufactures plate glass in plates. (Of course, all glass comes to fabrication plants in large plates, but that's not what the term originally meant.) It's all done by floating the glass on molten tin. Today, many glaziers refer to annealed glass as 'plate' glass -- technically wrong, but it's very common. If you're looking to buy glass that is flat, the first thing that you need to do is make sure that it is 'annealed' which means that is has not been tempered. Tempered glass is stronger and safer (breaking in to little nuggets) than annealed glass, but the tempering process makes glass wavy. You can usually tell if glass has been tempered by looking at the reflection of straight lines on the surface of the glass. If the lines look wavy, the the glass is probably tempered. Also, you will want to get glass that is either 3/8" or 1/2" thick -- 3/4" and even 1" are out there, too, but less common. Thinner glass might flex a little on an uneven surface. But that's not all! Even annealed float glass has a side that is flatter than the other. In the industry the two sides a generally referred to the 'air side' and the "tin side.' The side of the glass that came into contact with the tin is less flat than the air side, so it's best to use the air side when you need flatness. In a glass fabrication operation, it is often necessary to distinguish between air and tin sides, especially when applying paint (for spandral) or other coatings to annealed glass. (The tin residue from manufacturing can sometimes react with coatings.) We use little UV detectors that can distinguish between air/tin sides. These devices typically are not cheap, but there are other ways to do it. One involves putting a drop of water on the each side of the glass, but as I have forgotten how this works; it might be best to try googling it. I've also heard that you can find the air side by looking for bubbles in the edge of the glass; I'm not sure, but I assume that the side with more bubbles would be the air side. If you want glass like this, you might just contact several glaziers and tell them what size rectangle of 1/2" clear annealed glass you want to buy. The reason that I say to contact several is that prices tend to vary radically from glazier to glazier. Some buy directly from fabricators, others just buy from larger glaziers. You might ask them to mark the air side for you, but it's likely that you'll just get a blank stare when you ask. Unfortunately, most fabricators do not like to deal directly with the public. I'm pretty lucky, because I can just ask the workers to save me cut-offs of 1/2" clear that would normally be put in the recycling bins. As an amateur clarinetist, I built a table onto which I put a 1/2" clear annealed top which I use for adjusting clarinet reeds. My glass has polished edges for beauty and safety, but you could just have the glass seamed for safety. I would not have the glass beveled however, as the guy running the beveling machine could probably care less which side was the air side.
You my friend are a nutjob. I use snadpaper stuck to MDF and I get it to a mirror finish with automotive polish on 3/16 glass laid on a piece of MDF. You are the type that make something simple seem complicated and when people hear you ramble it scares them from trying as they think there is some magic formula.
I purchased one of these and the #6 about a month ago. One thing I've noticed is the iron, chip breaker, and frog tend to rust quickly. I live in Florida and keep them in a wood cabinet in my non-climatized garage. I am sure most people don't have climate controlled shops. Any thoughts or direction on this issue. So far, high maintenance to keep up with.
I will not buy nice hand tools for this reason. I may end up keeping them in my house, which isn't very practical.
+Donald Newton Paste wax for those things that rust. It will prevent rust for a long time. In extreme cases, a very light coat of shellac on non-wear surfaces is OK. You can strip it off at a future date with alcohol without removing japanning, etc. I can't think of an iron that won't rust other than the PM-V11 (they won't say what's in them, but they seem stainless to me - like powder 440C). Something will always rust, though, if it's not the iron, it'll be the chipbreaker, if it's not that, it'll be the castings. Keep them in your tool box and use them regularly and you won't have much of a rust issue no matter where you are.
In Florida, any bare iron items rust. You have both high humidity and high temperatures, which encourage such rusting. A thin coat of oil when in storage will not hurt, although it will oxidize and gum up sooner or later. Easy enough to clean it off if that happens. It is better than getting rust/pitting on your expensive tool.
these really do seem like the best value in hand planes
I wouldn't buy LN out of principle. They're clearly taking the piss.
The plane does look suspiciously like the excellent quangsheng 4 1/2 I bought recently (because you can no longer buy Sheffield made tools at realistic prices)
yes, I just checked their prices Oh My. I got an old Stanley from eBay and completely restored it and I have the same result shaving pine and hardwood.
So I like these new planes but they are so expensive and why buy a new one when the old tools do the same job.
Buy a mill or metal lathe. THEN you'll know what it is to clean gunk off a new toy. They slather red grease all over those things. Clean up is no small thing.
But I don't complain about it. I like my new tools (and current tools) to be rust-free.
Maybe he wants the wood that he would be working on not be saturated with nasty greese crap
I don't want to be the one to tell you this. But that rust preventive coating is called Cosmoline.
Rob, what is the cost of the stones that you used? And where can I find them?
HI Tom, we sell them on our site www.robcosman.com Combination of Shapton and Trend
Rob WHY don't you clean the grit/dirt up in between uses!
Just picked up one of these today. Had a heck of a time getting the frog screws out, but finally did. I'm having some trouble with the adjustment knob, seems tight or stiff. I keep adjusting the tightness of the lever cap. Seems to work better now, but finding the sweet spot is a bit tricky. Any other tips or thoughts with regard to cap tightness?
Thanks, I'll give it a go and let you know. I'm sure it will all work out just fine.
Was wondering if you were going to come out with a video on the low angle jack plane? Very interested in your opinion.
A piece of float glass with self adhesive abrasive sheet does little to clear the mystery: "how flat is it?" My machinist background tells me that actual measurements will quantify flatness and bring in its wake better understanding of the dynamics of hand plane performance.
That said, many woodworkers can be unnecessarily daunted by measuring in thousandth of an inch or 0.02 millimeter. I say "unnecessarily daunted" because good joiners and woodworker regularly fit glued joints to 0.004" to 0.007" clearance: they already work to thousandths but don't know it.
I suggest a small (9 x 12 or 12 x 18) import granite flat and a dial test indicator mounted on a garage sale surface gage as the basic flatness checking apparatus (this apparatus has many other uses in the wood shop.) Set the plane sole up on three wood wedges and adjust for parallelism to the granite. Then using the dial test indicator scan the plane sole for flatness. The readings of a good 0.001 graduated dial test indicator can be eyeballed to 0.0002" by anyone with good corrected vision and a little practice.
Why bother? Save yourself unnecessarily work and uncertainty. Uncertainty gives hucksters and demagogues oportunity to make suckers of otherwise shrewd individuals. The multi-billion dollar advertising industry is based on this very premise.
BTW, that little 0.0005" to 0.0008" parallel offset the Japanese planemakers apply between the sole ahead of the mouth to the sole behind? It works on my doctored up junk Stanldy Baileys.
I've tuned up many a garage sale and flea market Stanley Bailey hand plane to superior performance. However the process requires a full day of shop time, access to machine tools in some cases, and precision metalworking skills. Acquistion of a $15 junk plane requiring a bunch of painstaking work Vs $160 for a new precision made plane forces a purcase decision based on self-assessment, time, resources, and budget. YMMV
bs... 2 hours, flat surface, sand paper, and wire brush.