Although I learned a lot from this channel, I only use low angle planes. My jack and my smoother uses the same irons, this gives me a wide range of bevels. I tried to put back bevels on standard plane, this forced me to move the chip breaker upward, causing vibration while planing(even with the thick iron). Custom frogs are hard to find and I ended up with bevel up planes. The Veritas low angle plane is a lot heavier than the stanley 62 replica, the edges are wider, it works really well at shooting thanks to the thumb recess, the adjusting is super fin, no backlash, iron stays put while shooting thanks to the lateral set screws. Not to mention that the pmv11 steel holds the edge a lot longer.
Thanks for commenting. I really want to hear alternate opinions. At the end of the day the wood does not care what cuts it, as long as you can achieve a great surface.
Absolutely. I love my vintage 1921 Bedrock Jack, but nothing beats the Lee Valley low-angle Jack for the reasons you said above. I find it to be very user friendly, not nearly as temperamental as a traditional plane, and easy to adjust for multiple uses by switching out the blade with a higher primary angle and/or closing the mouth. And it is an excellent plane for shooting.
I just bought veritaas no 62, this thing is extraordinary in many ways but I couldn't manage to smooth complex grain surface (with 50 degree PM11 blade +12 degree = 62 degree cuttig angle) as I do in my cheap jack plane. I think it's about chipbreaker, keeping cutting angle at 45 but breaking the chip just after 0,1-0,2mm in contrast with just increasing the cutting angle as done in no 62. And in veritas no 62 lever cap is T-shaped, this gives your 4 fingers something to grab on and works perfect in endgrain cutting (shooting board).
I have a veritas #4 smoothing plane which I am happy with but about 4 yrs ago I found a baily#6 ar a garage sale and the sole was square to both sides and had what turned out to be surface rust on, Paid $20.00 for it. Bought a hock replacement blade for it, spend about 4 hrs polishing it and scraping off old chipped paint. It has been my go to hand plane ever since. I have been contemplating a low angle plane and after watching your video I am now convinced that I am better off not spending that money and will continue to use my old #6 Bailey. Thank you for your support of us Canadian Veterans.
Your description of how these tools function is second to none. I bought a 4 1/2 plane from you 6 or 7 years ago and I’ve never felt more informed before making a purchase. It’s a great tool. Many thanks.
Excellent video Rob. You changed my mind of this topic. So, now I have to call up all the folks who I told "If I could only have one plane it would be my low-angle jack, and add another iron to it. It can do everything I need to do with a plane with different kinds of wood." It might take me a while.
I have the Veritas low angle jack, and they solve all of the issues complained about in this video, from the Wood River plan. The Veritas has easy lateral adjustments, with set screws for locking the position. Close to 6 lbs of weight, and a large surface to grip onto, with recesses for thumb and fingers. It has been a joy to use on my shooting board. An actual shooting board plane would be even better. I don't have a 5-1/2 but my low angle jack is far better for shooting then my Stanley #5.
Totally agree with your assessment. I'm tired of hearing people talk about how the low angle is better for end grain! Plus, using a 5 1/2 just feels so natural and comfortable, it's an absolute joy to use. Why use anything else?? Keep the great videos coming Rob!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking 1st: i absolutely love your videos and your style Rob, and imported a WR 5 1/2 to germany because of your perfect video-contents, thank you! But in this comparison you tell the easyer setup (no chipbreaker, easy mouth-control) of the LA should be no "game-changer". But not all beginners (or oldies like me) are used to cope with all those different types of plane constructions out there as you do. And as the blockplanes often have LA and norris-style - they are extremely similar to (for example) veritas LA-planes. As a result the workflow (setup & sharpening) on ALL your planes would be nearly the same. That is a major point for the LA-Scenario in my opinion. Nice is that we all have the option to chose - the price between BRock/LA is nearly the same, from budget to premium level, isn't it?
Rob, bought my 5 1/2 thru you 5 years ago while in your Niagara Falls class as they were on back order here at Woodcraft in the States other than an occasional specialty or block plane its pretty much all I've used ever since and can't thank you enough for the fantastic class and coming home with that plane.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob, retired all my dovetail jigs and strictly hand cut now thanks to you, addicted to veneering as I just can't find that kind of amazing wood otherwise.
The Veritas LAJ is set up to be used with a shooting board and does an excellent job. The cap iron is optimized for holding and a dimple in the side gives a rest for the thumb. My Veritas gets used 90% of the time and the Woodriver 5 1/2 the remaining 10%
the 62 is amazing and blows my WR jack out of the water in performance, ease of use, edge retention, etc. just my experience. its the best plane ive ever purchased, out of stanley wood river lie nielson and veritas, the 62 beats them all for me. (I own planes fron all of these companies.)
Hey Rob, Try the Veritas Low Angle Jack in comparison to the WR 5&1/2. I think you'll find the heft, width and finish of this jewel with a PVM-11 blade hard to resist. I own a #5 Stanley Bailey with a corrugated sole and I love it for my go to. But for the shooting board, surface flattening, and even edge jointing, the Veritas is superior. Now come come Sir, show a little Canadian pride! Disclosure, I own a Wood River #7 and love it along with a sweet Wood River low angle Block. Bless you for your work with the Vets -- you are fine man and a superior craftsman.
I’ve been using the veritas low angle jack for the past 3 years and I immediately understood the pain when Rob tried to push it through the difficult Maple. If you have knots in the wood, this plane will get hung up on them no matter how shallow you try to cut. And the balance is very difficult to master, you almost have to throw the plane over the wood. I also really dislike the side to side adjustment. It takes a really long time to get the blade centered and get even shavings. I think I have given up at this point trying to master this plane. Will get a 5-1/2 and see if that suits me better.
Agree with Kashman. I enjoy and love using my Veritas LA jack plane with the PM-V11 blade. It cuts through anything, but you just gotta know how to get that powdered metal alloy steel blade sharp, I think that's where some people are failing and therefore having a not so great experience with it.
IMO... LV Veritas L/A B/U at just under 6 lbs with PM- V11 is Superior!! Great for shooting end grain. There are alot of variables and personal preference that influence ones choice but it's hard to beat LVs.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking He didn't say to change your entire career around a new tool, just to try it as you have here. Maybe its because Veritas doesn't pay you like Woodriver probably does (at the very least you have a vested interest in the brand).
Hi Rob, thanks for all your wonderful videos, I have learned so much from them all! I have never used a 51/2, have used a 5 for 35 years now, but based on your advice I have ordered a Clifton 51/2, it’s arriving from Germany tomorrow and I can’t wait to try it out!
You'll have to let me know how the Clifton is, i've been looking at them myself. Though i'm intrigued as to why getting it from Germany. As far as i'm aware they're made in Sheffield, UK. Not sure what laws are in Germany, but planes from UK have to be a certain level of flatness. It's why Luban planes for UK are only available from UK suppliers as they adjust the hand planes to be within the legal requirement (chinese online stores don't allow shipping to UK for that reason). At end of day though, flatness can be achieved with a little bit of elbow grease.
@@soul146 Hi Nick, The Clifton is amazing, the build quality, the mechanical parts, the finish, the weight, the quality of the steel in the blade, top marks. I have a Lie Nielsen block plane and scraping plane, and they are top class also. I got a Juuma No 7 a few months ago to replace my old Stanley, and it’s very good, it doesn’t get the same use a Jack, so I didn’t want to spend the money for a Clifton. Every element of the Clifton is just a bit better than the Juuma. Is it worth the extra money? It is to me, I have a big smile every time I use it. I got it from Fine Tools in Germany because I live in Ireland, with the UK not in the EU it’s cheaper than buying it from England, and they only charged me €12 shipping.
@@garethbaker3429 I found out yesterday i'm owed backdated holiday pay, soooo thats now been spent on a Clifton too aha. Let's raise our Cliftons together, but i may be too scared to clink them aha
I wish I watched your videos back in November last year when I was looking for advise buying my first plane. I quickly found out that the lateral adjustment on the 62 was a pain to dial in. Just got my LN 5 1/2 couple days ago, I found myself using it just planing a piece of scrap for no reason. It is oddly satisfying. The weight and the control just make planing a lot smoother. This video just sum it all up, a must watch for first plane buyer.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking No worries, Rob. You also mentioned all these points in other videos, just not as condense and focus. Already signed up for the newsletter couple months ago.
@@alanj822 Sure, I have a Veritas block plane and I like the lateral adjustment on that thing and I was looking at their low angle too because they are basically using the same control, but have you had trouble planing and advancing the blade at the same time (without taking you hand off the tote)? It seems to me that it can mess up the blade lateral setting very easily even if you can reach the adjuster with your index finger.
Quite the nice comparison between the two...seeing previous videos where you were clear about your preference, I knew the winner before the start of the video. However I must commend the video presented here for being as objective as practical. Nicely done and thanks for the video
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yes, indeed good effort! Owning both LA and bedrock style planes (loving both kinds by the way) i would still select bedrock style over LA _if_ I were to choose from Woodriver. The no.62 from Woodriver seems so primitive in terms of adjustability and easy of use compared to the no.5 1/2 (have You considered that Your own input into the design might influence the outcome). Still i use no.62 (Dictum) over no.6 (Record) on my shooting board, but guess that is down to what I am used to (yes, i have all "nice-to-have" adddons for comfy grip). I also have three blades with my no.62: 25 and a 54 degree straight ground and a 27 degree rounded blade for general dimensioning (after David Charlesworth). Again props for objective comparition.
I like to watch the Rob Cosman videos because of the way he pronounces the word "out", and also because he shows you how to choose, use and sharpen planes. that's all
I, too, am a fan of the Low Angle Jack. You should try the Veritas - the rear handle (tote) is much closer to the adjustment mechanism, giving a better balance, and easier adjustment. It also has a blade angle adjustment without a hammer. The throat can easily be opened to clear a shaving, and returned to the previous setting. The blade is far enough back that I can use either the front, before the blade, or the back, behind the blade, for reference when I am trimming edging on plywood.
Charlie, I'm considering a Veritas Jack for a shooting board. I'm familiar with Veritas tools and their quality and don't mind spending the money .... I'm retired and no longer chase women so I have bucks in the bank. I have the Veritas router plane and prefer it to the Stanley plane I inherited from my Grandfather so I trust their tools and the quality built in to those tools.... the question is would you use this plane on a shooting board? Mark
@@markbell335 The Veritas low angle jack was my first premium plane, and I think it's great. It's certainly a decent choice for a shooting board. Really, it's a decent choice for almost any planing job, but probably not the *best* choice for any of them. I have since bought a Lie-Nielsen 4 1/2 and am saving for a 7. Eventually, I'll get a 5 1/2, but having the 62 1/2 makes it a lot easier to be patient.
I purchased the #62 from Woodcraft a couple years ago when it was on sale because everything I saw indicated it was the most versatile plane you could get. Shortly after purchase, I watched your video making the case for the 5-1/2 and it made perfect sense to me. Been waiting for Woodcraft to put the 5-1/2 on sale ever since. Still waiting... :-) Appreciate you, Rob.
Hi Rob. Two years ago, I got suckered in to buying a Lie Neilsen low angle jack plane. I've never got on with it. The primary problem is the lack of mass to carry you through the wood. I've gone back to my Stanley 5½ and treated it to a Hock blade and it works a treat.
Really nice explanation. I was thinking about buying a 62 additionally to my Nr. 4 but now I’m convinced that I will not need the 62. Just sharpen the blade a bit better to get the work done. Thanks a lot. 😊
I also use the 5 1/2 as my main plane; however one of the few times I reach for the low angle jack is to remove a lot of material. I open the throat wide and insert a toothed blade. The lighter weight and relatively long length means it is a good substitute for a fore plane.
I do not have Stanley or other types of modern planes but a wooden plane of my father and replicating it i made myself another of 45° angle and still another 20° angle plane as a low angle bevel down plane. Surprisingly both 45° & 20° angle planes do exactly the same in end grain, of course with a sharp iron, Thanks to your free hand sharpening technique.
I rather use the 5 1/2 although I do own a Lie Nielsen 62 I like using it but I do prefer 5 1/2 and would recommend the 5 1/2 over the 62. Another great video Rob, do more comparison videos.
I don’t know how I didn’t watch this video until now since I’m subscribed but I normally don’t comment or thumbs up videos but this video has cleared up my decision on which plane to buy because I’ve been going back and forth between the two planes for quite some time now because I’ve heard both sides of this argument and I like you comparisons and preferences. Thanks!
Wow, great demo~! I wish that I'd discovered your videos B4 I'd bought my Low-Angle Jack plane (about 4yrs ago at the Atlanta WWS from Lee Valley). It was my first hand plane (other than a block) and I bought it based on other woodworkers saying that it's the best plane for difficult grain...exactly as you mention in this video. I have my WoodRiver 5 1/2 now and what a difference~! Both are very nice, but the +'s and --'s are just as you describe them here. I saw Richard Leon's comment below and using the low-angle with a different blade as a scrub plane isn't a bad idea. Thanks Rob~!
I like the 62, it is easier to set up, easier to sharpen, easier to repeat set ups, just easier all around, for me. I have a Veritas LA Jack with the PMV-11 blade and am blown away by it. It is super easy to use, it is versatile. I use it for everything. I even got the mini version of the Veritas LA Jack for inlays and precision planning and it is amazing as well. I must add I have only been woodworking for a little over a year and the 62 is perfect for me because of how easy everything is compared to the 5-1/2. I also work with a lot of difference species and curly grain, rarely do I get tare out. I will be investing in more blades for the LA so I have different degree blades to work with when I do hit that tough grain. I am new to your channel and have been binge watching a lot of episodes, I was happy to watch this because I was wondering why you were using a BD plane compared to a BU. I do think you should try the Veritas LA Jack with the PMV-11 blade, this plane also has holds for using shooting boards. if you don't like it.... you can ship it to me :)
I agree that the 5 1/2 is a superior tool in terms of feel and performance, but I would argue that the adjustment of the frog vs. closing the throat with the turn of a knob gives an advantage to the 62. That's not enough reason to buy a 62, but I do think it's fair to acknowledge that adjusting the frog on a 5 1/2 (or any similar bench plane) is a bit more cumbersome, especially for those with less experience than you. Thanks for the video!
The 62 throat adjustment is slightly easier than a bedrock style plane. Certainly tons rasier than a Bailey style plane. However i disagree that you need some high leveel of skill to loosed two screws and turn a third screw to adjust a Bedrock style frog.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sure - and I didn't mean to intimate that a high level of skill is needed for the screws - my thinking was knowing where to position the frog to get that 'just right' shaving is something that comes with experience (though it's surely not rocket science). And your point about the Bailey style is well taken - I spent a good bit of time getting my Bailey setup correctly!
Thank you for sharing some of the "secrets" of your house. I've been reading about Japanese architecture. But some things talked about weren't well illustrated, mostly because many building types were included along with minka.
Rob, I agree with everything you said in the video. I have the L-N version of the 62 and use it in the following instances: When I travel to classes, because it's significantly lighter in my luggage (I try to lighten my toolkit with just about all my other tools too in this situation,) and I really like to use it with a toothed blade as a scrub plane when dimensioning stock by hand...again, because it's lighter and more nimble than a standard bench plane. That being said, other than that, it doesn't see a lot of use in my home shop...I rarely hand dimension my stock anymore, and let my stationary jointer and planer do the grunt work nowadays.
I like trying different tools. I bought the Lie-Nielsen 5 1/2 based on your videos. Before that I had a new Stanley LA Jack Plane. I couldn’t really get on with it and I gave it to a guy getting into woodworking at the time. I told him he could pawn it, trade it, or use it. He uses it but he has bought other planes, as most of us do. Now he builds beautiful guitars from scratch. The 5 1/2 will remain my #1 plane because it works so well. Will I try a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen LA Jack Plane? Probably, because I like trying new tools and I’m partial to both companies. I think I fall into what my Dad said when I was young, “he has to find out for himself, you can’t tell him anything.” 😂
I agree completely, bit when reflattening my finished workbench, any of my standard planes would gum up between the blade and chip breaker, no matter how i adjusted or reflattened them, but the 62 blasted right through, without issue. I did switch back to my #7 for final smoothing, after the finish was removed
Got a Lie-Nielsen #62 in the box. It has been in the back room, unused for ten or fifteen years now because, after I was all moneyed up and bought it on an impulse, I realized every point you made was true. Additionally, as I'm sure you know but some of your viewers may not, the blade-and-chip-breaker sets on the #4-1/2 and #7 interchange (does the 5-1/2 also?) which means that 4 high quality after-market sets cover the need for a set in each of the planes, an ordinary 45 degree spare set kept razor sharp and a fourth steeply ground set, york or middle pitch, for difficult grain with either plane.
When I started woodworking I had a bad habit of grasping the tote with my fist three fingers with my little pinky hanging of the plane. After catching my finger a few times and bleeding on my work I now use the pistol grip with my forefinger pointing. The Stanley 62 has lateral adjustment with the iron adjuster.
I have both the Lie Nielsen 62 and the 5-1/2 and agree with your conclusions. I haven't found either plane particularly comfortable when using with the shooting board as the heel of my palm gets sore so I use a weight lifters glove to cushion my hand.
This video made me smile! I agree with you completely. I personally think the 62 is a bit of a hype. Stanley never made a lot of these. It never took off for them, because it was a gimmick. There is absolutely no real benefit to a 62 compared to the regular angled planes. I suspect that the real reason people buy them is that they are the cheapest way to own a LN or Veritas plane.
Hi Rob, as a cabinet maker of over 40 years experience I have always reached for my Stanley Bailey planes and have never had a problem with them, they get the job done. About a year ago I thought I needed to get a low angle jack to see for myself the difference. In the UK we have a company called Axminster Tools and their in house tools are branded as Rider, I think they are very similar to your Wood River ones and likewise they do not have a lateral adjuster, I am aware that the Stanley sweetheart and Veritas do have a Norris style adjuster for the blade and are much better. I purchased a Rider from Axminster mainly because of the reasonable price, it is very nicely made and finished however when I came to use it I found it difficult having 4 fingers around the rear handle, I like you am used to putting my finger on the frog. Having persevered with it for a while it will not be my go to plane and I really cannot see what all the fuss surrounding these planes, I also accept that after all these years with a standard plane, changing is difficult. In conclusion I think if people just getting into woodwork find them great and easy to work with then who am I to say what is best, as long as it works for them and it keeps them working in wood that's good for me.
The wood doesn’t care what cuts it. I just think there is a lot of hype about the 62, especially for a new woodworker. I wanted to get the other side of the story out there.
Hi Rob, Thanks for another outstanding instructional video. Also very timely as I'm about to purchase another plane, and yes you have made the choice easy for me, it's the 5 1/2 for me. kmdc downunder
I have both bought from Rob. I prefer the tradional plane. Easier to adjust on the fly.i know it sounds silly what I am going to say but with the nechanism on the bevel up being so low down I FEEL as though 1/2 my plane is missing . Ha ha .He's a real honest guy so I would listen to him . In fact I did .
Thanks Rob, just starting with my hand tool journey and really enjoyed this video. I have Luban 62 which I was planning to use on the shooting board, but I think I must get my Stanley 5 1/2 restored and install the Veritas blade on that. Even though it is not the bedrock version, just the standard one. Thanks also for the back bevel to change the angle of attack - I have a restored No 6 with a VERY pitted blade, so much that I cannot get an edge without a chip... I think I will do the back bevel on that blade for higly figured wood. Will see how that goes.
I have the Henry Eckert No 62 made here in Aussie. It weighs the same as a No 5 plane so is heavier that all other No 62s. With the Hot dog attached it works so well as a shooting board plane and the PMV10 blade is about the best for sharpening and staying sharp. It is the go to plane for all things and with a second blade at 50 degrees it deals with all Aussie hardwoods and reversing grain. My No 6 Stanley now sits on the shelf and never gets a look in anymore. Unsure why you struggled on the shooting board or when planing but maybe the extra weight on my Henry Eckert is the answer. The added bonus is the Henry Eckert is so finly manufactured that blade alignment is so simple as long as you sharpen a square edge the extremely close tolerance of the blade and plane makes lateral adjustments totally obselete :)
Great review. It's amazing how polarizing this issue is. Not too many people ride the fence. My biggest gripes about my Stanley #62 are its weird balance (due to the setback of the tote) and the inability to finger-adjust the iron projection while planing. I'd be much less enthusiastic about my plane if I had to tap the iron with a hammer to adjust the angle, but mine has a Norris adjustment which is actually pretty user-friendly. The game changer is the adjustable mouth. Adjusting the frog on Bailey-style planes (especially older ones) is enough of a hassle that I don't do it.
Its like politics!!! No one wants to have a friendly discussion. I don't like the Norris style adjustment system, in fact I find I can do a finer adjustment with a hammer verses a Norris style adjuster. Foe me weight and ease of use on the shooting board are the deciding factors.
I have both next to my bench and use them back and forth all day. The bevel down blade has more of a camber to it. I can see how the 62 would be hard on a Canadians wrist. The full four finger grip really helps.
Thank you Rob you just saved me some money. I have an father's old Stanley No 4 and an old Stanley No. 6 my brother got from a recycling shop at a rubbish dump. I use the No.6 on a shooting board mostly. I think I will just buy it a new blade.
Thank you for explaining the setup on the high angle plane so thoroughly. I now understand the relationship and target adjustment between all of the parts.
Mr. Cosman, I’m glad you made this video after taking the time to talk to me about it the week before. Any chance you want to make a video of the #62 with the blade ground to 90 degrees vs a cabinet scraper plane?
At my summer cottage I only have #5 1/2 and #4 bench planes. They are able to do everything I need them to do. At home I have all sizes from #1 to #8. For some reason I like my Veritas #62 the most. I use #4 or #4 1/2 (Hock blade) for smoothing but most of them time I grab #62. It has a place for your hand when you’re using a shooting board on the sides and the lever cap. The sides are tall enough for stability. It has a scred adjustment which prevents the mouth piece to knock the blade when adjusting the mouth. It holds the blade very well in place - Better than a Stanley bench plane. I like the low center of gravity. Veritas #62 is 5 lb 12 oz.
You sound like me, collect all the planes. The 62 just does not feel right and I have not seen it perform as well as a 5-1/2 with the students who come to my workshop
When I started out in woodworking I found the LA far superior for the beginner. The simplicity of set up, the ease of making adjustments, the ability to open/close the throat. That’s not to say that with experience you can get the same results with a bevel down plane - I now get on just fine with me BD Stanley. But for beginners the LA is a far more user friendly tool.
I think that's why they've gotten popular. They'll give you fine results with less thinking. I think that the new breed of hybrid users understand bevel ups better than bed angles and beginners frequently don't get their lateral adjustments right anyway which is the one area where bevel up planes are absolutely atrocious. The lack of chipbreaker I think also helps beginners since chipbreaker clogs are common when starting out and not knowing how a properly fit chipbreaker looks and beginners always set them too far back causing issues. For me, a 62 is a plane for a DIYer and Bailey/Bedrock patterns are for craftsmen.
Thank you for saving me from spending the extra money on a low angle jack. I could see you trying to ignore your bias but I could see the difference in effort required visually.
I really wish somebody would make a hybrid style plane - I want a Bedrock with a frog that is fixed in place perfectly square and an adjustable mouth like the 62. Like you mentioned in this video, the mouth adjustment on the 62 is the best part about that plane and I think it’s superior to the movable frog design for several reasons. Great video as always, thanks for sharing all of your experience!
I sharpened my low angle Stanley 62 and my Stanley 5 1/2 for a big end grain job. The bevel down was definitely the happier cutting end grain. Both were sharpened to 25 deg.
I own both types of planes and I fully agree with your points other than one minor point. The geometry of the way a low angle addresses the timber is totally different to a Bailey or Bedrock. As such, achieving a slight convex on the blade of a low angle is totally different to achieving it on a Bailey or Bedrock. I have found that what works for me is to stone/polish the full length of both edges of the bottom of the plane blade. This only needs to be done once. That full length polishing on the bottom edges gives the "lift" at the edge that is required. Getting that same "lift" by addressing the micro-bevel on a low angle requires a lot more concaving than on a bevel down. On a different point, you have done a great job of comparing the two styles of plane. And it is clear that there are more advantages to a "standard" plane. I think they get the point that they could have made a better choice. You have much feedback showing that many of your followers, for what ever reason, have and use a low angle jack or smoother. I ask, might there be a case to develop a few videos advising how to get the best out of their choice.
Umm, since I don't use low angle planes I think I would be uncomfortable doing that subject. I don't have the experience necessary to give tips in the use of a low angle jack plane.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking It is very refreshing to see someone who is unquestionably an expert craftsman decline to shoot his opinion on something like this, because he doesn't feel he has enough experience... far too many pundits don't have that level of integrity. Many thanks Rob for all the hours of effort you put in to teach what you have learned over the years. There's no BS on this channel, just a lot of skill and hard won knowledge. Personally, my most-used plane is a Veritas LA block with the auxiliary handle (a great idea). Mini-smoother, small shooter, fixer of nasty tear-out after I've run over a knot with another plane... just does what I want time after time. A really nicely engineered and effective small plane, even if it's not as pretty as some others and I still don't have the slow adjuster. My second favourite is a Clifton No. 5 which is a very nicely built classic bevel-down plane, with an excellent and thick Clifton Victor iron. Well-sharpened, this also always performs very nicely but is not as flexible for really nasty grain, where a steep secondary bevel on the Veritas is easier to put on when needed. Many classic woodies with lovely old tapered irons and (usually) rather wide mouths also get a lot of use, and also make me smile when they are in the hand. But when the chips are down or I've screwed up, it's the little Veritas that is usually the one I turn to. I am definitely feeling tempted by the block's bigger brothers - and Lee Valley are also a really nice company from what I have seen of them, and deserve support for investing so much effort and money in engineering such a nice set of tools: even if not everyone agrees with the aesthetics, there are a lot of practical details that they have taken trouble over and none of it is driven by BS as far as I know. Just like Rob :) cheers to everyone, and happy planing.
I like all style of good quality handplanes. I have the Lie Nielsen 62, the jointer No. 8 and the shoot board plane, European wooden planes (Ulmia) and Japanese Kanna. I enjoy to work with all of them. Most important is the sharpness of the blade. The big advantage of the low angle plane for me is to open and adjust the mouth of the plane so quickly.
A sharp blade trumps all. I think the adjustable throat on the 62 is nice, but for me it that doesn't overcome all the other things I dont like with it. So do you have a favorite plane among your collection?
RobCosman.com, Hi Rob, I have got two old Kanna from good traditional Japanese Blacksmiths in very good condition (the Kanjis in the Irons are chiseled, not imprinted), difficult to set up and to sharpen, but these Japanese planes are something special. The challenge for me is to get the best out of the tools, use it were it serve best and enjoy the tool feels good in my hand. I like the handle of the Lie Nielsen No. 62, it feels good in my hand. The lateral adjustment is easy enough for me. But after watching your videos I bought the Lie Nielsen No 8 and no low angel jointer. A friend of mine bought the Veritas low angle jointer plane - we are both happy with our decision.
This video is extremely helpful! I didn't realize it was okay to position the frog forward to close the mouth; I'm definitely going to try that on my No. 5. Do you have an opinion on auto-set planes? Thanks again, Rob!
I think one of the main problems is that the LA planes have been promoted as the ideal 'jack of all trades' planes, whereas that title really belongs to Leonard Bailey's bench planes which are, of course, bevel-down. Stanley never intended the 62 to be an all-singing, all-dancing plane, and their catalogue states that it was "especially adapted for use in cutting across the grain on heavy work". I can't comment on the 62's performance in that respect, because I've never used one (although that Wood River one certainly didn't impress!), but I do have a Veritas Low-Angle Jack which is superb at cross-grain work - that's why I bpught it. Although it acquits itself well on general work it's unfair to compare it with the superbly versatile Baileys, and Rob's comment on dept adjustment "on the go" is well-founded. If you're a beginner - get a Bailey! Later on you can buy an LA plane and use it for the purpose for which it was intended. It's nice to have, but not essential. Bailey designed his bench planes to be versatile, and Stanley designed the 62 as a large and powerful block plane. How about a Bailey plane with an adjustable mouth? Now that would really finish the debate!
Thanks for posting such a useful video! I have been considering picking up a Woodriver #5 1/2 as my next big plane purchase. I was recently given a Henry Eckert #62 Low Angle Jack Plane, which weighs in at 2.6 kgs (5.7 lbs), which is significantly heavier than the Woodriver #62 Low Angle Jack Plane (4.6 lbs), but still less than the Woodriver #5 1/2 just over (7lbs). The extra weight in the Henry Eckert #62 really makes a big difference for cutting end grain. Now I really want that 5 1/2 to do a comparison :)
Thank you for all the information, I’ve been a Sheetmetal Worker for over 20yrs. I’m looking to get into Woodworking as a hobby. I have a strong metal fabrication background and I’m gonna build a table and looking into a hand planing to assist me in jointing. I was looking at the Sweetheart 62 sold at the Orange Box, I’m convinced of your heavy plane view I just don’t know if my lack of experience will become a hindrance with Jack plane. You seem to adjust things very fluidly but I’m afraid I’m gonna screw it up and nobody I know can actually bring all the adjustments back to working order…. Btw your an inspiration to me, I want to build like you and adopt your methodology into my toolbox. I have so much to learn, I’m tempted to download your MDF WORKBENCh,. But joining lumber seems like I’ll get a lot of garage time with a plane and learn how to sharpen… still in contemplation phase, your input would be greatly appreciated!
Hi, you might be subscibed to the Wood By Wright channel, and his latest video is an in-depth comparison between Standard High angle bevel-down planes, and Low Angle bevel-up planes. He argues that the Low Angle Bevel-up does 80% of what the Standard High Angle Bevel-down does, but is easier to set up then use, and its easier for beginners to get up to speed. It's good for roughing out and edge work, but it excels at dealing with endgrain. Where it is less successful is in smoothing figured wood. Where the grain changes direction, you might suffer tearout because it lacks a chip breaker. A Standard high angle bevel down plane can do every task, including figured wood, but needs careful setup to handle end grain. So you can start woodworking with either one. It just a descision to whether you start learning to drive with a stick shift, or an automatic, and what terrain you'll be driving across. If you arent going tobbe tackling projects with anything but straight grained wood, you can buy a 62. Low angle. But if you aregoing to tackle complex and figured wood, and don't mind taking more time in learning how to make it work for you, a standard 5-1/2 high-angle bevel-down is the one to start with. More moving parts, more knowledge and practice needed, but its an all-rounder. And you can get a decent one for less than a decent 62. And another thing, the 5-1/2 was sold to schools for teaching children woodworking. It's extra weight and length makes it easier to register it on the wood surface, and keep it true and level for beginners.
Lots of good info here. For me, the most important thing is proper sharpening. I went a few years before I really learned how to do it quickly..... which allows me to do it often. I don't have a 62 or a 5 1/2 but I have a 3,4,5 and 6 and a block plane. So far so good....
Sharpening is the KEY. Its the most important skill for a hand tool woodworker. Since you have a #6 I would not get the 5-1/2. I prefer the 5-1/2 over the 6 but the #6 is a close second.
Thank you for this helpful demonstration. Again I learned very much. I think, that you at least produce one of the best Woodworking-Chanels. From Germany again - thank you very much. KD
Here's my two cents...I own both, having the LN 62 for 20 years, and the LN 5-1/2 for two years. I purchased my 5-1/2 with the 50-degree frog. My work suffered from poor lateral blade adjustment, as the 62 blade shifts laterally very easily. Yes its lighter, and some like that, like Garrett Hack, who travels with his tools, and prefers the 62. Also, some feel that the simpler blade adjustment and lack of a chip breaker make the 62 more user friendly. But my lack of good results led me to the 5-1/2. I also found that the throat adjuster on the 62 sticks, so when I would want to close it down, I would foul the blade-ouch! So my 62 now gathers dust mostly. The 5-1/2 is a joy to use, and I recently prepared multple hard maple counter tops for a new home, and had no problems when I encounterd reversing grain. If I could do it again, I would go right for the LN 5-1/2. If I were not a tool hoarder, I would sell the 62. Thanks for the great video, I always learn something, or confirm what I knew from you Rob
Rob, the only time I found useful for a low angle plane is in the block plane dressing edge chamfers in exotic wood where the thin opening of the throat eliminates those grain tear outs using it skewed.
Not really. COL Luther took over production of the videos and that's the source of all the changes you see. We did decide what playlist subjects we wanted (and there are a lot) and we decided to focus on one subject, deep dive videos, to create what we hope will become a "GO TO" video library of woodworking knowledge. We welcome your ideas on this.
Thanks buddy been thinking I absolutely needed a no. 62 lol not so much totally overrated by all the modern day power tool wood workers it looks like I am not buying one but will be buying a new 5 1/2 lol already have a 5 and 6 and love them both thanks again your the man Cosman
Its really surprises me how many "so called" experts write about the 62 and when you check it out invariably they are not woodworkers they are writers. If you have a 5 and a 6 you really don't need a 5-1/2. A #6 is my second choice. Unless of course you are like me and just want to get most of the sizes!!!
Hi Rob -! I finally got a moment to watch this. Entirely trivial comment from me, at 7.02 I'm suddenly distracted by your 'weeping' briefcase on the floor behind you.
I have more pre-war Stanley's than any one person actually needs because I'm lazy and don't like swapping irons. I'd rather just have a high angle iron setup in a plane already which in my case is a No 6 because I had a spare. I've seen so much information on a 62 that I actually considered picking one up several times. I don't think I will now. I think that money would be better spent on some more modern irons for my the old crew. Thanks for finally laying this internal debate to rest for me.
I agree. A new blade in an old plane make all the difference. As self-serving as this is I highly recommend you look at my revival plane blades. They are the best out there. Watch my video on the product page. Here is the link for the 2-3/8 blade: robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/ibc-rob-cosman-revival-plane-blade-set-2-3-8-inches
I've got the Lie-Nielsen 62 Low Angle Jack as well as their 4-1/2 High Angle Frog smoothing plane. I find that they are nice companions and each do their own thing well. Also have the Lie-Nielsen #7 Jointer plane and the Iron Miter plane for use on the shooting board. Have used the 4-1/2 High Angle Frog on some highly figured stuff and works well. Haven't tried the "back bevel" on the 62, might have to give that a try, thanks for the tip :-)
I have a Lie Nielsen #62 and really like it. Have 2 blades for different angles of attack for different wood hardness/grain. It works great for me. Of course I don't do a lot of hand planing and have no experience with other planes(besides a WR block plane). If I buy another plane it will be a 5 1/2 WR. Haven't found a need yet but maybe I just don't know what I'm missing.
@@briancarroll6803 It's 40 degrees. I don't use it much but works good on really crazy grain. I recently inherited a collection of 18 vintage Stanley planes. Most need some TLC. Going through them and getting them in good working order now.
Rob, pretty much everything you know about hand planes is what I don’t know. I was debating which way to go as a second plane for my tool box - I have a block plane that has been ok for my rudimentary wood projects. I will definitely go with the 5 1/2 now. Thanks
When I built my shooting board I made the ledge a little too narrow for a Bedrock to fully rest on. My 62 though is narrow enough it fits the ledge, so, as far as stability goes the low angle works better on my particular board. I was considering building a new board with a wider ledge when I watched this. A new shooting board is now defintely on the to-do list. The greater weight of the Bedrock is something I do consider an advantage. Thanks.
I do love my 5.5 I must admit, I have a L/N 62 with a 'hot dog' attachment but it's not quite the ticket. I recall Alan Peters commenting in his book on using a No.7 for almost everything, remarkable considering the size of the thing.
I use a 5 1/2 Stanley and a Veritas Low Angle jack and both have their uses. What you’re missing in this in this comparison is the ability to use different angle blades in the LA jack. I have a 25, 38 and 50 degree blades that you can quickly swop out. So in one plane you have a low angle plane, a regular angle and a high angle almost scraper plane. I use the 50 degree blade to plane difficult woods (curly birch, wild grain elm etc) and it is impossible to get tear out with it. It’s got me out of trouble many times. Having said that my go to plane is the Stanley 5 1/2...
My point was that I find that a lower angle of attack (37 vs 45) is not a noticeable difference, if you know how to sharpen well. The other angles you create with other blades can be duplicated on a bevel down by shaping the back side of the bevel, making the blade argument for me,, mute
Rob we have both, since I build musical instruments . I find the L/N 62 with a 40 deg bevel works well on our angled shooting board for the exotics.If I was building furniture the 5 1/2 would be much more useful
Great comparison. I have both planes and find the 5 1/2 easier and faster to use than the 62. I would agree the weight and width makes a huge difference in better performance.
You know Rob I've seen these expensive models even with the iron set on an angle instead of straight across the sole of the plane and some even with brass to make it look so good, they look so good and are so expensive and they get a man wondering but the biggest point that I Absolutely agree with you is T"TheWEIGHT BEHIND THE PUNCH." I have a Stanly #5 lei Nielson #7 & #8, among others but I use my #7 on my custom-made shooting board for the #7, WHY? all that weight behind each push makes the job so much better and easier. Now if I had to use a shooting board all day on the job would the lighter plane be better, I think not because it takes so much more effort to push it through the wood. BRAVO my man on this one. I couldn't agree more with you on this one too.
I am having issues with my Veritas low angle on mixed grain maple and cherry. I just ordered 38 degree bevel blade from LV. Hopefully this will resolve the issue.
Rob, several comments on this video, yours and others, mention scrub planes. I have several vintage Stanleys (both 40 & 40 1/2. Oddly, when I purchased it the 40 1/2 had been ground straight across like a regular plane iron 🤷♂️) and a rather narrow wooden Ulmia. I use them all, constantly. There seems to be a general lack of understanding/mystery about scrub planes and their usefulness so I’m wondering if you might consider doing a video on the subject...how they are used, sharpened, how to turn an ordinary plane into a dedicated scrub plane (I have a #4 1/2H that I’ve pulled the frog way back on and ground a curve on the iron)...that sort of thing?
The bench plane I reach for most is my Miller's Falls No. 15, I prefer MF planes to Stanley Bailey planes. However, I also have the Veritas low-angle jack and a Lie Neilsen No 4 in bronze. I reach for the Veritas and the LN No 4 when I'm doing something that feels picky. You don't seem to like Veritas tools very much, but I have several, and I'm happy with all of them. I'm sorely tempted to buy a LN low angle smoother. but I need to sell a few other planes first.
4 degree's is not a small difference when you are scrubbing end grain, especially when your not having to fight a chipbreaker that increases back pressure. But the original low angle Stanley was very much a specialist tool for end grain work. But the most important trick to finishing end grain is wetting it. Massively reduces the effort required and prolongs edge life. The only time I double bevel is when cleaning out mortise's in knotty timber and site work.
Although I learned a lot from this channel, I only use low angle planes. My jack and my smoother uses the same irons, this gives me a wide range of bevels. I tried to put back bevels on standard plane, this forced me to move the chip breaker upward, causing vibration while planing(even with the thick iron). Custom frogs are hard to find and I ended up with bevel up planes. The Veritas low angle plane is a lot heavier than the stanley 62 replica, the edges are wider, it works really well at shooting thanks to the thumb recess, the adjusting is super fin, no backlash, iron stays put while shooting thanks to the lateral set screws. Not to mention that the pmv11 steel holds the edge a lot longer.
Thanks for commenting. I really want to hear alternate opinions. At the end of the day the wood does not care what cuts it, as long as you can achieve a great surface.
Absolutely. I love my vintage 1921 Bedrock Jack, but nothing beats the Lee Valley low-angle Jack for the reasons you said above. I find it to be very user friendly, not nearly as temperamental as a traditional plane, and easy to adjust for multiple uses by switching out the blade with a higher primary angle and/or closing the mouth. And it is an excellent plane for shooting.
I just bought veritaas no 62, this thing is extraordinary in many ways but I couldn't manage to smooth complex grain surface (with 50 degree PM11 blade +12 degree = 62 degree cuttig angle) as I do in my cheap jack plane. I think it's about chipbreaker, keeping cutting angle at 45 but breaking the chip just after 0,1-0,2mm in contrast with just increasing the cutting angle as done in no 62.
And in veritas no 62 lever cap is T-shaped, this gives your 4 fingers something to grab on and works perfect in endgrain cutting (shooting board).
@@e139439, I never had to go beyond 38 degrees. May I know what wood species you are dealing with?
@@ionut5316 Pine mostly, also beech but most problematic one for me is construction grade pine
I have a veritas #4 smoothing plane which I am happy with but about 4 yrs ago I found a baily#6 ar a garage sale and the sole was square to both sides and had what turned out to be surface rust on, Paid $20.00 for it. Bought a hock replacement blade for it, spend about 4 hrs polishing it and scraping off old chipped paint. It has been my go to hand plane ever since. I have been contemplating a low angle plane and after watching your video I am now convinced that I am better off not spending that money and will continue to use my old #6 Bailey. Thank you for your support of us Canadian Veterans.
This was not only a good A versus B, it was a great all around plane guide. I learned a lot. Thanks.
Your description of how these tools function is second to none. I bought a 4 1/2 plane from you 6 or 7 years ago and I’ve never felt more informed before making a purchase. It’s a great tool. Many thanks.
Excellent video Rob.
You changed my mind of this topic.
So, now I have to call up all the folks who I told "If I could only have one plane it would be my low-angle jack, and add another iron to it. It can do everything I need to do with a plane with different kinds of wood."
It might take me a while.
I have the Veritas low angle jack, and they solve all of the issues complained about in this video, from the Wood River plan. The Veritas has easy lateral adjustments, with set screws for locking the position. Close to 6 lbs of weight, and a large surface to grip onto, with recesses for thumb and fingers. It has been a joy to use on my shooting board. An actual shooting board plane would be even better. I don't have a 5-1/2 but my low angle jack is far better for shooting then my Stanley #5.
Thanks for giving us info on that plane. Is your Stanley 5 a bedrock or bailey style?
Totally agree with your assessment. I'm tired of hearing people talk about how the low angle is better for end grain! Plus, using a 5 1/2 just feels so natural and comfortable, it's an absolute joy to use. Why use anything else?? Keep the great videos coming Rob!
Almost like a conspiracy isn't it?
Thanks. keep watching and commenting and i will keep making videos
@@RobCosmanWoodworking 1st: i absolutely love your videos and your style Rob, and imported a WR 5 1/2 to germany because of your perfect video-contents, thank you! But in this comparison you tell the easyer setup (no chipbreaker, easy mouth-control) of the LA should be no "game-changer". But not all beginners (or oldies like me) are used to cope with all those different types of plane constructions out there as you do. And as the blockplanes often have LA and norris-style - they are extremely similar to (for example) veritas LA-planes. As a result the workflow (setup & sharpening) on ALL your planes would be nearly the same. That is a major point for the LA-Scenario in my opinion. Nice is that we all have the option to chose - the price between BRock/LA is nearly the same, from budget to premium level, isn't it?
Rob, bought my 5 1/2 thru you 5 years ago while in your Niagara Falls class as they were on back order here at Woodcraft in the States other than an occasional specialty or block plane its pretty much all I've used ever since and can't thank you enough for the fantastic class and coming home with that plane.
Hi Michael....hows your woodworking been since the class?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob, retired all my dovetail jigs and strictly hand cut now thanks to you, addicted to veneering as I just can't find that kind of amazing wood otherwise.
The Veritas LAJ is set up to be used with a shooting board and does an excellent job. The cap iron is optimized for holding and a dimple in the side gives a rest for the thumb. My Veritas gets used 90% of the time and the Woodriver 5 1/2 the remaining 10%
20:34 that is bloody clever mate. Love it.
Thanks Rob, I was about to order the 62 and really grateful that I watched this video and your expert advise. Great help & thanks.
the 62 is amazing and blows my WR jack out of the water in performance, ease of use, edge retention, etc. just my experience. its the best plane ive ever purchased, out of stanley wood river lie nielson and veritas, the 62 beats them all for me. (I own planes fron all of these companies.)
@@justinsane332
I wonder how you'd rate the LN #62 vs the WR #62. The LN #62 was my second high end plane after the LN low angle block plane.
Hey Rob, Try the Veritas Low Angle Jack in comparison to the WR 5&1/2. I think you'll find the heft, width and finish of this jewel with a PVM-11 blade hard to resist. I own a #5 Stanley Bailey with a corrugated sole and I love it for my go to. But for the shooting board, surface flattening, and even edge jointing, the Veritas is superior. Now come come Sir, show a little Canadian pride! Disclosure, I own a Wood River #7 and love it along with a sweet Wood River low angle Block. Bless you for your work with the Vets -- you are fine man and a superior craftsman.
Thanks for the commenting. I do OK with my 5-1/2 and after 30 years of professional woodworking i am sticking to my 5-1/2.
I’ve been using the veritas low angle jack for the past 3 years and I immediately understood the pain when Rob tried to push it through the difficult Maple. If you have knots in the wood, this plane will get hung up on them no matter how shallow you try to cut. And the balance is very difficult to master, you almost have to throw the plane over the wood. I also really dislike the side to side adjustment. It takes a really long time to get the blade centered and get even shavings. I think I have given up at this point trying to master this plane. Will get a 5-1/2 and see if that suits me better.
Agree with Kashman. I enjoy and love using my Veritas LA jack plane with the PM-V11 blade. It cuts through anything, but you just gotta know how to get that powdered metal alloy steel blade sharp, I think that's where some people are failing and therefore having a not so great experience with it.
IMO... LV Veritas L/A B/U at just under 6 lbs with PM- V11 is Superior!! Great for shooting end grain. There are alot of variables and personal preference that influence ones choice but it's hard to beat LVs.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking He didn't say to change your entire career around a new tool, just to try it as you have here. Maybe its because Veritas doesn't pay you like Woodriver probably does (at the very least you have a vested interest in the brand).
Hi Rob, thanks for all your wonderful videos, I have learned so much from them all!
I have never used a 51/2, have used a 5 for 35 years now, but based on your advice I have ordered a Clifton 51/2, it’s arriving from Germany tomorrow and I can’t wait to try it out!
You'll have to let me know how the Clifton is, i've been looking at them myself. Though i'm intrigued as to why getting it from Germany. As far as i'm aware they're made in Sheffield, UK. Not sure what laws are in Germany, but planes from UK have to be a certain level of flatness. It's why Luban planes for UK are only available from UK suppliers as they adjust the hand planes to be within the legal requirement (chinese online stores don't allow shipping to UK for that reason). At end of day though, flatness can be achieved with a little bit of elbow grease.
@@soul146
Hi Nick,
The Clifton is amazing, the build quality, the mechanical parts, the finish, the weight, the quality of the steel in the blade, top marks.
I have a Lie Nielsen block plane and scraping plane, and they are top class also. I got a Juuma No 7 a few months ago to replace my old Stanley, and it’s very good, it doesn’t get the same use a Jack, so I didn’t want to spend the money for a Clifton. Every element of the Clifton is just a bit better than the Juuma. Is it worth the extra money? It is to me, I have a big smile every time I use it.
I got it from Fine Tools in Germany because I live in Ireland, with the UK not in the EU it’s cheaper than buying it from England, and they only charged me €12 shipping.
@@garethbaker3429 I found out yesterday i'm owed backdated holiday pay, soooo thats now been spent on a Clifton too aha. Let's raise our Cliftons together, but i may be too scared to clink them aha
I wish I watched your videos back in November last year when I was looking for advise buying my first plane. I quickly found out that the lateral adjustment on the 62 was a pain to dial in. Just got my LN 5 1/2 couple days ago, I found myself using it just planing a piece of scrap for no reason. It is oddly satisfying. The weight and the control just make planing a lot smoother. This video just sum it all up, a must watch for first plane buyer.
Sorry I didn't get this out sooner for you. Make sure you sign up for my free monthly newsletter, the link is in the video description
@@RobCosmanWoodworking No worries, Rob. You also mentioned all these points in other videos, just not as condense and focus. Already signed up for the newsletter couple months ago.
LOL not on a veritas it aint
@@alanj822 Sure, I have a Veritas block plane and I like the lateral adjustment on that thing and I was looking at their low angle too because they are basically using the same control, but have you had trouble planing and advancing the blade at the same time (without taking you hand off the tote)? It seems to me that it can mess up the blade lateral setting very easily even if you can reach the adjuster with your index finger.
It's nice to see someone speaking sense on this subject.
I just think there is a lot of mis-info on LA vs Standard angle planes out there, and wanted to get my opinion out there.
Quite the nice comparison between the two...seeing previous videos where you were clear about your preference, I knew the winner before the start of the video. However I must commend the video presented here for being as objective as practical. Nicely done and thanks for the video
It was soooo hard to remain objective, but I really tried.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yes, indeed good effort! Owning both LA and bedrock style planes (loving both kinds by the way) i would still select bedrock style over LA _if_ I were to choose from Woodriver. The no.62 from Woodriver seems so primitive in terms of adjustability and easy of use compared to the no.5 1/2 (have You considered that Your own input into the design might influence the outcome). Still i use no.62 (Dictum) over no.6 (Record) on my shooting board, but guess that is down to what I am used to (yes, i have all "nice-to-have" adddons for comfy grip). I also have three blades with my no.62: 25 and a 54 degree straight ground and a 27 degree rounded blade for general dimensioning (after David Charlesworth). Again props for objective comparition.
I like to watch the Rob Cosman videos because of the way he pronounces the word "out", and also because he shows you how to choose, use and sharpen planes. that's all
Its Canadian you know! Eh?
I, too, am a fan of the Low Angle Jack. You should try the Veritas - the rear handle (tote) is much closer to the adjustment mechanism, giving a better balance, and easier adjustment. It also has a blade angle adjustment without a hammer. The throat can easily be opened to clear a shaving, and returned to the previous setting. The blade is far enough back that I can use either the front, before the blade, or the back, behind the blade, for reference when I am trimming edging on plywood.
Charlie, I'm considering a Veritas Jack for a shooting board. I'm familiar with Veritas tools and their quality and don't mind spending the money .... I'm retired and no longer chase women so I have bucks in the bank. I have the Veritas router plane and prefer it to the Stanley plane I inherited from my Grandfather so I trust their tools and the quality built in to those tools.... the question is would you use this plane on a shooting board?
Mark
@@markbell335 The Veritas low angle jack was my first premium plane, and I think it's great. It's certainly a decent choice for a shooting board. Really, it's a decent choice for almost any planing job, but probably not the *best* choice for any of them. I have since bought a Lie-Nielsen 4 1/2 and am saving for a 7. Eventually, I'll get a 5 1/2, but having the 62 1/2 makes it a lot easier to be patient.
I purchased the #62 from Woodcraft a couple years ago when it was on sale because everything I saw indicated it was the most versatile plane you could get. Shortly after purchase, I watched your video making the case for the 5-1/2 and it made perfect sense to me. Been waiting for Woodcraft to put the 5-1/2 on sale ever since. Still waiting... :-)
Appreciate you, Rob.
You are going to love the 5-1/2. A great plane.
Thanks Rob, this was very informative. I wish I would have seen it before I plopped down money on the No. 62, but I like them both.
Yes I should have made this a long time ago
I have the same experience - I only blame Rob for having to buy a 5 1/2...
He will have to take that up with my wife😂😂
Hi Rob. Two years ago, I got suckered in to buying a Lie Neilsen low angle jack plane. I've never got on with it. The primary problem is the lack of mass to carry you through the wood. I've gone back to my Stanley 5½ and treated it to a Hock blade and it works a treat.
The old Stanleys perform tons better with a modern blade. Good call
That's my setup too. Bedrock 605 1/2 with hock iron / breaker. Just sails through the end grain!
Damn i don't know jack about these, still you were so comprehensive. Thank you!
Really nice explanation. I was thinking about buying a 62 additionally to my Nr. 4 but now I’m convinced that I will not need the 62. Just sharpen the blade a bit better to get the work done. Thanks a lot. 😊
Rob thank you and the time you spend to teach us and the crew you guys and girls are awesome
Thanks for watching and commenting
I also use the 5 1/2 as my main plane; however one of the few times I reach for the low angle jack is to remove a lot of material. I open the throat wide and insert a toothed blade. The lighter weight and relatively long length means it is a good substitute for a fore plane.
Yup, I can see how that would be a good use. I just use the scrub plane, same idea
Can you get a toothed blade for the wood river?
I purchased a Bedrock 5 1/2 over a year ago It is my favorite plane.
Mine too!!!!!
I do not have Stanley or other types of modern planes but a wooden plane of my father and replicating it i made myself another of 45° angle and still another 20° angle plane as a low angle bevel down plane. Surprisingly both 45° & 20° angle planes do exactly the same in end grain, of course with a sharp iron, Thanks to your free hand sharpening technique.
I rather use the 5 1/2 although I do own a Lie Nielsen 62 I like using it but I do prefer 5 1/2 and would recommend the 5 1/2 over the 62. Another great video Rob, do more comparison videos.
Standard IBC chisel handles vs Super Ammed "knock your socks off" Holy Smokes they're gorgeous chisel handles! How about that one?
Yes but being from California don't you flip flop on everything????? (Hey folks Ammed and I are good friends)
I agree with your every word. You mentioned the distance from the handle to the cutting edge at LA plane - for me this is the main argument. Balance.
Its definitely one of the important ones. Thanks for watching
I don’t know how I didn’t watch this video until now since I’m subscribed but I normally don’t comment or thumbs up videos but this video has cleared up my decision on which plane to buy because I’ve been going back and forth between the two planes for quite some time now because I’ve heard both sides of this argument and I like you comparisons and preferences. Thanks!
Best video i have seen so far on adjusting hand planes!
Just seeing you struggle with the 62 on the 1st piece is enough to convince me, especially factoring in your years of hand planning.
Thank you.
Lots of folks do love their 62. A sharp blade is the key regardless of which plane you use. But i do prefer the 5-1/2
Wow, great demo~! I wish that I'd discovered your videos B4 I'd bought my Low-Angle Jack plane (about 4yrs ago at the Atlanta WWS from Lee Valley). It was my first hand plane (other than a block) and I bought it based on other woodworkers saying that it's the best plane for difficult grain...exactly as you mention in this video. I have my WoodRiver 5 1/2 now and what a difference~! Both are very nice, but the +'s and --'s are just as you describe them here. I saw Richard Leon's comment below and using the low-angle with a different blade as a scrub plane isn't a bad idea.
Thanks Rob~!
I agree with you , the 5-1/2 is my go to general purpose plane. Sure the 62 could be a good scrub plane.
I like the 62, it is easier to set up, easier to sharpen, easier to repeat set ups, just easier all around, for me. I have a Veritas LA Jack with the PMV-11 blade and am blown away by it. It is super easy to use, it is versatile. I use it for everything. I even got the mini version of the Veritas LA Jack for inlays and precision planning and it is amazing as well. I must add I have only been woodworking for a little over a year and the 62 is perfect for me because of how easy everything is compared to the 5-1/2. I also work with a lot of difference species and curly grain, rarely do I get tare out. I will be investing in more blades for the LA so I have different degree blades to work with when I do hit that tough grain. I am new to your channel and have been binge watching a lot of episodes, I was happy to watch this because I was wondering why you were using a BD plane compared to a BU. I do think you should try the Veritas LA Jack with the PMV-11 blade, this plane also has holds for using shooting boards. if you don't like it.... you can ship it to me :)
i was just about to buy my first plane which would have been the No. 62, now after watching this video im going to reconsider. Thanks for the help!
In my opinion, there is so much mis-info out there about the 62, I wanted to put out what I thought.
I agree that the 5 1/2 is a superior tool in terms of feel and performance, but I would argue that the adjustment of the frog vs. closing the throat with the turn of a knob gives an advantage to the 62. That's not enough reason to buy a 62, but I do think it's fair to acknowledge that adjusting the frog on a 5 1/2 (or any similar bench plane) is a bit more cumbersome, especially for those with less experience than you.
Thanks for the video!
The 62 throat adjustment is slightly easier than a bedrock style plane. Certainly tons rasier than a Bailey style plane. However i disagree that you need some high leveel of skill to loosed two screws and turn a third screw to adjust a Bedrock style frog.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sure - and I didn't mean to intimate that a high level of skill is needed for the screws - my thinking was knowing where to position the frog to get that 'just right' shaving is something that comes with experience (though it's surely not rocket science). And your point about the Bailey style is well taken - I spent a good bit of time getting my Bailey setup correctly!
Thank you for sharing some of the "secrets" of your house. I've been reading about Japanese architecture. But some things talked about weren't well illustrated, mostly because many building types were included along with minka.
Rob, I agree with everything you said in the video. I have the L-N version of the 62 and use it in the following instances: When I travel to classes, because it's significantly lighter in my luggage (I try to lighten my toolkit with just about all my other tools too in this situation,) and I really like to use it with a toothed blade as a scrub plane when dimensioning stock by hand...again, because it's lighter and more nimble than a standard bench plane. That being said, other than that, it doesn't see a lot of use in my home shop...I rarely hand dimension my stock anymore, and let my stationary jointer and planer do the grunt work nowadays.
I like trying different tools. I bought the Lie-Nielsen 5 1/2 based on your videos. Before that I had a new Stanley LA Jack Plane. I couldn’t really get on with it and I gave it to a guy getting into woodworking at the time. I told him he could pawn it, trade it, or use it. He uses it but he has bought other planes, as most of us do. Now he builds beautiful guitars from scratch.
The 5 1/2 will remain my #1 plane because it works so well.
Will I try a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen LA Jack Plane? Probably, because I like trying new tools and I’m partial to both companies.
I think I fall into what my Dad said when I was young, “he has to find out for himself, you can’t tell him anything.” 😂
Paul Sellars uses his No. 5 instead of a block plane and the shavings do not lie. It works like a charm.
I agree completely, bit when reflattening my finished workbench, any of my standard planes would gum up between the blade and chip breaker, no matter how i adjusted or reflattened them, but the 62 blasted right through, without issue. I did switch back to my #7 for final smoothing, after the finish was removed
Sounds like a mating issue between the blade and chipbreaker
Got a Lie-Nielsen #62 in the box. It has been in the back room, unused for ten or fifteen years now because, after I was all moneyed up and bought it on an impulse, I realized every point you made was true. Additionally, as I'm sure you know but some of your viewers may not, the blade-and-chip-breaker sets on the #4-1/2 and #7 interchange (does the 5-1/2 also?) which means that 4 high quality after-market sets cover the need for a set in each of the planes, an ordinary 45 degree spare set kept razor sharp and a fourth steeply ground set, york or middle pitch, for difficult grain with either plane.
When I started woodworking I had a bad habit of grasping the tote with my fist three fingers with my little pinky hanging of the plane. After catching my finger a few times and bleeding on my work I now use the pistol grip with my forefinger pointing. The Stanley 62 has lateral adjustment with the iron adjuster.
I have both the Lie Nielsen 62 and the 5-1/2 and agree with your conclusions. I haven't found either plane particularly comfortable when using with the shooting board as the heel of my palm gets sore so I use a weight lifters glove to cushion my hand.
I am working on a detachable and comfortable handle to solve that problem. Similar to one Alan Peters used.
This video made me smile! I agree with you completely. I personally think the 62 is a bit of a hype. Stanley never made a lot of these. It never took off for them, because it was a gimmick. There is absolutely no real benefit to a 62 compared to the regular angled planes. I suspect that the real reason people buy them is that they are the cheapest way to own a LN or Veritas plane.
Well they are a ton of magazine writes and website that tell beginners to get them. It really baffles me.
I’ve recently made a low angle bevel up with Veritas blade and adjuster. It beats my other bevel downs by a huge margin.
Hi Rob, as a cabinet maker of over 40 years experience I have always reached for my Stanley Bailey planes and have never had a problem with them, they get the job done. About a year ago I thought I needed to get a low angle jack to see for myself the difference. In the UK we have a company called Axminster Tools and their in house tools are branded as Rider, I think they are very similar to your Wood River ones and likewise they do not have a lateral adjuster, I am aware that the Stanley sweetheart and Veritas do have a Norris style adjuster for the blade and are much better. I purchased a Rider from Axminster mainly because of the reasonable price, it is very nicely made and finished however when I came to use it I found it difficult having 4 fingers around the rear handle, I like you am used to putting my finger on the frog. Having persevered with it for a while it will not be my go to plane and I really cannot see what all the fuss surrounding these planes, I also accept that after all these years with a standard plane, changing is difficult. In conclusion I think if people just getting into woodwork find them great and easy to work with then who am I to say what is best, as long as it works for them and it keeps them working in wood that's good for me.
The wood doesn’t care what cuts it. I just think there is a lot of hype about the 62, especially for a new woodworker. I wanted to get the other side of the story out there.
At least axminster has fantastic customer service
I bought a Rider no 92 once. It was defective so I sent it straight back and bought a Wood River instead.
Hi Rob,
Thanks for another outstanding instructional video. Also very timely as I'm about to purchase another plane, and yes you have made the choice easy for me, it's the 5 1/2 for me.
kmdc downunder
ONLY if you buy Wood River . Planes . There's a whole world out there beyond Chinese made planes that are NOT much cheaper than han Premium planes
I have both bought from Rob. I prefer the tradional plane. Easier to adjust on the fly.i know it sounds silly what I am going to say but with the nechanism on the bevel up being so low down I FEEL as though 1/2 my plane is missing . Ha ha .He's a real honest guy so I would listen to him . In fact I did .
I agree with you
Thanks Rob, just starting with my hand tool journey and really enjoyed this video. I have Luban 62 which I was planning to use on the shooting board, but I think I must get my Stanley 5 1/2 restored and install the Veritas blade on that. Even though it is not the bedrock version, just the standard one.
Thanks also for the back bevel to change the angle of attack - I have a restored No 6 with a VERY pitted blade, so much that I cannot get an edge without a chip... I think I will do the back bevel on that blade for higly figured wood. Will see how that goes.
I have the Henry Eckert No 62 made here in Aussie. It weighs the same as a No 5 plane so is heavier that all other No 62s. With the Hot dog attached it works so well as a shooting board plane and the PMV10 blade is about the best for sharpening and staying sharp. It is the go to plane for all things and with a second blade at 50 degrees it deals with all Aussie hardwoods and reversing grain. My No 6 Stanley now sits on the shelf and never gets a look in anymore. Unsure why you struggled on the shooting board or when planing but maybe the extra weight on my Henry Eckert is the answer. The added bonus is the Henry Eckert is so finly manufactured that blade alignment is so simple as long as you sharpen a square edge the extremely close tolerance of the blade and plane makes lateral adjustments totally obselete :)
Great review. It's amazing how polarizing this issue is. Not too many people ride the fence.
My biggest gripes about my Stanley #62 are its weird balance (due to the setback of the tote) and the inability to finger-adjust the iron projection while planing. I'd be much less enthusiastic about my plane if I had to tap the iron with a hammer to adjust the angle, but mine has a Norris adjustment which is actually pretty user-friendly. The game changer is the adjustable mouth. Adjusting the frog on Bailey-style planes (especially older ones) is enough of a hassle that I don't do it.
Its like politics!!! No one wants to have a friendly discussion. I don't like the Norris style adjustment system, in fact I find I can do a finer adjustment with a hammer verses a Norris style adjuster. Foe me weight and ease of use on the shooting board are the deciding factors.
Your presentations are very clear and to the point. Thanks!
I have both next to my bench and use them back and forth all day. The bevel down blade has more of a camber to it. I can see how the 62 would be hard on a Canadians wrist. The full four finger grip really helps.
Thank you Rob you just saved me some money. I have an father's old Stanley No 4 and an old Stanley No. 6 my brother got from a recycling shop at a rubbish dump. I use the No.6 on a shooting board mostly. I think I will just buy it a new blade.
Hi Rob, I got the impression right from the start, that the 62 was never going to win your heart. A fairer comparison might have been with a No. 5.
my thoughts exactly lol
@@BatCaveCreations Glad I'm not the only one. Hardly a "level playing field".
Thank you for explaining the setup on the high angle plane so thoroughly. I now understand the relationship and target adjustment between all of the parts.
Mr. Cosman, I’m glad you made this video after taking the time to talk to me about it the week before. Any chance you want to make a video of the #62 with the blade ground to 90 degrees vs a cabinet scraper plane?
Probably not since I dont use that. I prefer to stick to videos of the stuff I use and really know about.
At my summer cottage I only have #5 1/2 and #4 bench planes. They are able to do everything I need them to do.
At home I have all sizes from #1 to #8. For some reason I like my Veritas #62 the most. I use #4 or #4 1/2 (Hock blade) for smoothing but most of them time I grab #62. It has a place for your hand when you’re using a shooting board on the sides and the lever cap. The sides are tall enough for stability. It has a scred adjustment which prevents the mouth piece to knock the blade when adjusting the mouth. It holds the blade very well in place - Better than a Stanley bench plane. I like the low center of gravity. Veritas #62 is 5 lb 12 oz.
You sound like me, collect all the planes. The 62 just does not feel right and I have not seen it perform as well as a 5-1/2 with the students who come to my workshop
When I started out in woodworking I found the LA far superior for the beginner. The simplicity of set up, the ease of making adjustments, the ability to open/close the throat. That’s not to say that with experience you can get the same results with a bevel down plane - I now get on just fine with me BD Stanley. But for beginners the LA is a far more user friendly tool.
I think that's why they've gotten popular. They'll give you fine results with less thinking. I think that the new breed of hybrid users understand bevel ups better than bed angles and beginners frequently don't get their lateral adjustments right anyway which is the one area where bevel up planes are absolutely atrocious. The lack of chipbreaker I think also helps beginners since chipbreaker clogs are common when starting out and not knowing how a properly fit chipbreaker looks and beginners always set them too far back causing issues. For me, a 62 is a plane for a DIYer and Bailey/Bedrock patterns are for craftsmen.
Great video. Thank Rob. This is very helpful.
Thank you for saving me from spending the extra money on a low angle jack. I could see you trying to ignore your bias but I could see the difference in effort required visually.
Glad I could help. I tried hard to be as fair as I could...but I do prefer the 5-1/2
I really wish somebody would make a hybrid style plane - I want a Bedrock with a frog that is fixed in place perfectly square and an adjustable mouth like the 62. Like you mentioned in this video, the mouth adjustment on the 62 is the best part about that plane and I think it’s superior to the movable frog design for several reasons. Great video as always, thanks for sharing all of your experience!
You might want to check out Veritas's custom line of bench planes as they have an adjustable mouth.
I sharpened my low angle Stanley 62 and my Stanley 5 1/2 for a big end grain job. The bevel down was definitely the happier cutting end grain. Both were sharpened to 25 deg.
I own both types of planes and I fully agree with your points other than one minor point. The geometry of the way a low angle addresses the timber is totally different to a Bailey or Bedrock. As such, achieving a slight convex on the blade of a low angle is totally different to achieving it on a Bailey or Bedrock. I have found that what works for me is to stone/polish the full length of both edges of the bottom of the plane blade. This only needs to be done once. That full length polishing on the bottom edges gives the "lift" at the edge that is required. Getting that same "lift" by addressing the micro-bevel on a low angle requires a lot more concaving than on a bevel down.
On a different point, you have done a great job of comparing the two styles of plane. And it is clear that there are more advantages to a "standard" plane. I think they get the point that they could have made a better choice. You have much feedback showing that many of your followers, for what ever reason, have and use a low angle jack or smoother. I ask, might there be a case to develop a few videos advising how to get the best out of their choice.
Umm, since I don't use low angle planes I think I would be uncomfortable doing that subject. I don't have the experience necessary to give tips in the use of a low angle jack plane.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking It is very refreshing to see someone who is unquestionably an expert craftsman decline to shoot his opinion on something like this, because he doesn't feel he has enough experience... far too many pundits don't have that level of integrity. Many thanks Rob for all the hours of effort you put in to teach what you have learned over the years. There's no BS on this channel, just a lot of skill and hard won knowledge.
Personally, my most-used plane is a Veritas LA block with the auxiliary handle (a great idea). Mini-smoother, small shooter, fixer of nasty tear-out after I've run over a knot with another plane... just does what I want time after time. A really nicely engineered and effective small plane, even if it's not as pretty as some others and I still don't have the slow adjuster. My second favourite is a Clifton No. 5 which is a very nicely built classic bevel-down plane, with an excellent and thick Clifton Victor iron. Well-sharpened, this also always performs very nicely but is not as flexible for really nasty grain, where a steep secondary bevel on the Veritas is easier to put on when needed. Many classic woodies with lovely old tapered irons and (usually) rather wide mouths also get a lot of use, and also make me smile when they are in the hand. But when the chips are down or I've screwed up, it's the little Veritas that is usually the one I turn to.
I am definitely feeling tempted by the block's bigger brothers - and Lee Valley are also a really nice company from what I have seen of them, and deserve support for investing so much effort and money in engineering such a nice set of tools: even if not everyone agrees with the aesthetics, there are a lot of practical details that they have taken trouble over and none of it is driven by BS as far as I know. Just like Rob :)
cheers to everyone, and happy planing.
I like all style of good quality handplanes. I have the Lie Nielsen 62, the jointer No. 8 and the shoot board plane, European wooden planes (Ulmia) and Japanese Kanna. I enjoy to work with all of them. Most important is the sharpness of the blade. The big advantage of the low angle plane for me is to open and adjust the mouth of the plane so quickly.
A sharp blade trumps all. I think the adjustable throat on the 62 is nice, but for me it that doesn't overcome all the other things I dont like with it. So do you have a favorite plane among your collection?
RobCosman.com, Hi Rob, I have got two old Kanna from good traditional Japanese Blacksmiths in very good condition (the Kanjis in the Irons are chiseled, not imprinted), difficult to set up and to sharpen, but these Japanese planes are something special.
The challenge for me is to get the best out of the tools, use it were it serve best and enjoy the tool feels good in my hand. I like the handle of the Lie Nielsen No. 62, it feels good in my hand. The lateral adjustment is easy enough for me. But after watching your videos I bought the Lie Nielsen No 8 and no low angel jointer. A friend of mine bought the Veritas low angle jointer plane - we are both happy with our decision.
This video is extremely helpful! I didn't realize it was okay to position the frog forward to close the mouth; I'm definitely going to try that on my No. 5. Do you have an opinion on auto-set planes? Thanks again, Rob!
I think one of the main problems is that the LA planes have been promoted as the ideal 'jack of all trades' planes, whereas that title really belongs to Leonard Bailey's bench planes which are, of course, bevel-down. Stanley never intended the 62 to be an all-singing, all-dancing plane, and their catalogue states that it was "especially adapted for use in cutting across the grain on heavy work". I can't comment on the 62's performance in that respect, because I've never used one (although that Wood River one certainly didn't impress!), but I do have a Veritas Low-Angle Jack which is superb at cross-grain work - that's why I bpught it. Although it acquits itself well on general work it's unfair to compare it with the superbly versatile Baileys, and Rob's comment on dept adjustment "on the go" is well-founded. If you're a beginner - get a Bailey! Later on you can buy an LA plane and use it for the purpose for which it was intended. It's nice to have, but not essential. Bailey designed his bench planes to be versatile, and Stanley designed the 62 as a large and powerful block plane. How about a Bailey plane with an adjustable mouth? Now that would really finish the debate!
Thanks for posting such a useful video! I have been considering picking up a Woodriver #5 1/2 as my next big plane purchase. I was recently given a Henry Eckert #62 Low Angle Jack Plane, which weighs in at 2.6 kgs (5.7 lbs), which is significantly heavier than the Woodriver #62 Low Angle Jack Plane (4.6 lbs), but still less than the Woodriver #5 1/2 just over (7lbs). The extra weight in the Henry Eckert #62 really makes a big difference for cutting end grain. Now I really want that 5 1/2 to do a comparison :)
Your thinking is correct. I just released a video
Thank you for all the information, I’ve been a Sheetmetal Worker for over 20yrs. I’m looking to get into Woodworking as a hobby. I have a strong metal fabrication background and I’m gonna build a table and looking into a hand planing to assist me in jointing. I was looking at the Sweetheart 62 sold at the Orange Box, I’m convinced of your heavy plane view I just don’t know if my lack of experience will become a hindrance with Jack plane. You seem to adjust things very fluidly but I’m afraid I’m gonna screw it up and nobody I know can actually bring all the adjustments back to working order….
Btw your an inspiration to me, I want to build like you and adopt your methodology into my toolbox. I have so much to learn, I’m tempted to download your MDF WORKBENCh,. But joining lumber seems like I’ll get a lot of garage time with a plane and learn how to sharpen… still in contemplation phase, your input would be greatly appreciated!
Hi, you might be subscibed to the Wood By Wright channel, and his latest video is an in-depth comparison between Standard High angle bevel-down planes, and Low Angle bevel-up planes. He argues that the Low Angle Bevel-up does 80% of what the Standard High Angle Bevel-down does, but is easier to set up then use, and its easier for beginners to get up to speed. It's good for roughing out and edge work, but it excels at dealing with endgrain. Where it is less successful is in smoothing figured wood. Where the grain changes direction, you might suffer tearout because it lacks a chip breaker. A Standard high angle bevel down plane can do every task, including figured wood, but needs careful setup to handle end grain. So you can start woodworking with either one. It just a descision to whether you start learning to drive with a stick shift, or an automatic, and what terrain you'll be driving across. If you arent going tobbe tackling projects with anything but straight grained wood, you can buy a 62. Low angle. But if you aregoing to tackle complex and figured wood, and don't mind taking more time in learning how to make it work for you, a standard 5-1/2 high-angle bevel-down is the one to start with. More moving parts, more knowledge and practice needed, but its an all-rounder. And you can get a decent one for less than a decent 62. And another thing, the 5-1/2 was sold to schools for teaching children woodworking. It's extra weight and length makes it easier to register it on the wood surface, and keep it true and level for beginners.
Thanks for taking the time to compare these. I've long wondered and now you've presented a very convincing comparison.
Glad it was helpful! whats the next video we should make?
Nice to see plane laid on the side & bringing the plane back along the timber helps to keep the iron sharp,a type of homing..
Lots of good info here. For me, the most important thing is proper sharpening. I went a few years before I really learned how to do it quickly..... which allows me to do it often. I don't have a 62 or a 5 1/2 but I have a 3,4,5 and 6 and a block plane. So far so good....
Sharpening is the KEY. Its the most important skill for a hand tool woodworker. Since you have a #6 I would not get the 5-1/2. I prefer the 5-1/2 over the 6 but the #6 is a close second.
Thank you for this helpful demonstration. Again I learned very much.
I think, that you at least produce one of the best Woodworking-Chanels.
From Germany again - thank you very much.
KD
tahnk dich zum zuschauen und kommentieren. Ich wünschte, ich könnte hier in Kanada Brtotchin bekommen
I really enjoy your videos. Have you evaluated the Bridge City Tools planes?
Here's my two cents...I own both, having the LN 62 for 20 years, and the LN 5-1/2 for two years. I purchased my 5-1/2 with the 50-degree frog. My work suffered from poor lateral blade adjustment, as the 62 blade shifts laterally very easily. Yes its lighter, and some like that, like Garrett Hack, who travels with his tools, and prefers the 62. Also, some feel that the simpler blade adjustment and lack of a chip breaker make the 62 more user friendly. But my lack of good results led me to the 5-1/2. I also found that the throat adjuster on the 62 sticks, so when I would want to close it down, I would foul the blade-ouch! So my 62 now gathers dust mostly. The 5-1/2 is a joy to use, and I recently prepared multple hard maple counter tops for a new home, and had no problems when I encounterd reversing grain. If I could do it again, I would go right for the LN 5-1/2. If I were not a tool hoarder, I would sell the 62.
Thanks for the great video, I always learn something, or confirm what I knew from you Rob
Thanks for watching and commenting. I agree with your assessment of the 5-1/2
Rob, the only time I found useful for a low angle plane is in the block plane dressing edge chamfers in exotic wood where the thin opening of the throat eliminates those grain tear outs using it skewed.
Killing it with these videos lately. Did you decided to purposely go over all the basics again during COVID or something? It’s nice to see a refresh!
Not really. COL Luther took over production of the videos and that's the source of all the changes you see. We did decide what playlist subjects we wanted (and there are a lot) and we decided to focus on one subject, deep dive videos, to create what we hope will become a "GO TO" video library of woodworking knowledge. We welcome your ideas on this.
Thanks buddy been thinking I absolutely needed a no. 62 lol not so much totally overrated by all the modern day power tool wood workers it looks like I am not buying one but will be buying a new 5 1/2 lol already have a 5 and 6 and love them both thanks again your the man Cosman
Its really surprises me how many "so called" experts write about the 62 and when you check it out invariably they are not woodworkers they are writers. If you have a 5 and a 6 you really don't need a 5-1/2. A #6 is my second choice. Unless of course you are like me and just want to get most of the sizes!!!
RobCosman.com yes sir I want them all lol!!!
Hi Rob -! I finally got a moment to watch this. Entirely trivial comment from me, at 7.02 I'm suddenly distracted by your 'weeping' briefcase on the floor behind you.
Haha that thing is crying
I have more pre-war Stanley's than any one person actually needs because I'm lazy and don't like swapping irons. I'd rather just have a high angle iron setup in a plane already which in my case is a No 6 because I had a spare. I've seen so much information on a 62 that I actually considered picking one up several times. I don't think I will now. I think that money would be better spent on some more modern irons for my the old crew. Thanks for finally laying this internal debate to rest for me.
I agree. A new blade in an old plane make all the difference. As self-serving as this is I highly recommend you look at my revival plane blades. They are the best out there. Watch my video on the product page. Here is the link for the 2-3/8 blade: robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/ibc-rob-cosman-revival-plane-blade-set-2-3-8-inches
I've got the Lie-Nielsen 62 Low Angle Jack as well as their 4-1/2 High Angle Frog smoothing plane. I find that they are nice companions and each do their own thing well. Also have the Lie-Nielsen #7 Jointer plane and the Iron Miter plane for use on the shooting board. Have used the 4-1/2 High Angle Frog on some highly figured stuff and works well. Haven't tried the "back bevel" on the 62, might have to give that a try, thanks for the tip :-)
I have a Lie Nielsen #62 and really like it. Have 2 blades for different angles of attack for different wood hardness/grain. It works great for me. Of course I don't do a lot of hand planing and have no experience with other planes(besides a WR block plane). If I buy another plane it will be a 5 1/2 WR. Haven't found a need yet but maybe I just don't know what I'm missing.
Hi, I just got my LN 62 in and also ordered an extra blade. I'm curious what angle you ground your second blade to if you don't mind me asking?
@@briancarroll6803 It's 40 degrees. I don't use it much but works good on really crazy grain. I recently inherited a collection of 18 vintage Stanley planes. Most need some TLC. Going through them and getting them in good working order now.
Rob, pretty much everything you know about hand planes is what I don’t know.
I was debating which way to go as a second plane for my tool box - I have a block plane that has been ok for my rudimentary wood projects. I will definitely go with the 5 1/2 now.
Thanks
When I built my shooting board I made the ledge a little too narrow for a Bedrock to fully rest on. My 62 though is narrow enough it fits the ledge, so, as far as stability goes the low angle works better on my particular board. I was considering building a new board with a wider ledge when I watched this. A new shooting board is now defintely on the to-do list. The greater weight of the Bedrock is something I do consider an advantage. Thanks.
I do love my 5.5 I must admit, I have a L/N 62 with a 'hot dog' attachment but it's not quite the ticket. I recall Alan Peters commenting in his book on using a No.7 for almost everything, remarkable considering the size of the thing.
Great examples your showing cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it
Another option for the bedrock plane is buy a steeper frog, great video btw.
I use a 5 1/2 Stanley and a Veritas Low Angle jack and both have their uses. What you’re missing in this in this comparison is the ability to use different angle blades in the LA jack. I have a 25, 38 and 50 degree blades that you can quickly swop out. So in one plane you have a low angle plane, a regular angle and a high angle almost scraper plane. I use the 50 degree blade to plane difficult woods (curly birch, wild grain elm etc) and it is impossible to get tear out with it. It’s got me out of trouble many times. Having said that my go to plane is the Stanley 5 1/2...
My point was that I find that a lower angle of attack (37 vs 45) is not a noticeable difference, if you know how to sharpen well. The other angles you create with other blades can be duplicated on a bevel down by shaping the back side of the bevel, making the blade argument for me,, mute
Rob we have both, since I build musical instruments . I find the L/N 62 with a 40 deg bevel works well on our angled shooting board for the exotics.If I was building furniture the 5 1/2 would be much more useful
Do you use a hot dog on your 62 when shooting with it?
His favorites always win!
Is it okay to use the ruler trick when prepping the back of the #62?
What wax is he using? What wax would you recommend?
Awesome class. 5 1/2” wood river definitely
Thanks 👍 I think its the way to go
Great comparison. I have both planes and find the 5 1/2 easier and faster to use than the 62. I would agree the weight and width makes a huge difference in better performance.
Well you know I agree with your assessment
You know Rob I've seen these expensive models even with the iron set on an angle instead of straight across the sole of the plane and some even with brass to make it look so good, they look so good and are so expensive and they get a man wondering but the biggest point that I Absolutely agree with you is T"TheWEIGHT BEHIND THE PUNCH." I have a Stanly #5 lei Nielson #7 & #8, among others but I use my #7 on my custom-made shooting board for the #7, WHY? all that weight behind each push makes the job so much better and easier. Now if I had to use a shooting board all day on the job would the lighter plane be better, I think not because it takes so much more effort to push it through the wood. BRAVO my man on this one. I couldn't agree more with you on this one too.
I am having issues with my Veritas low angle on mixed grain maple and cherry. I just ordered 38 degree bevel blade from LV. Hopefully this will resolve the issue.
Rob, several comments on this video, yours and others, mention scrub planes. I have several vintage Stanleys (both 40 & 40 1/2. Oddly, when I purchased it the 40 1/2 had been ground straight across like a regular plane iron 🤷♂️) and a rather narrow wooden Ulmia. I use them all, constantly. There seems to be a general lack of understanding/mystery about scrub planes and their usefulness so I’m wondering if you might consider doing a video on the subject...how they are used, sharpened, how to turn an ordinary plane into a dedicated scrub plane (I have a #4 1/2H that I’ve pulled the frog way back on and ground a curve on the iron)...that sort of thing?
I have touched on pieces of this but not in one comprehensive video. I will tell COL Luther to put it on th e to do list
The bench plane I reach for most is my Miller's Falls No. 15, I prefer MF planes to Stanley Bailey planes. However, I also have the Veritas low-angle jack and a Lie Neilsen No 4 in bronze. I reach for the Veritas and the LN No 4 when I'm doing something that feels picky. You don't seem to like Veritas tools very much, but I have several, and I'm happy with all of them. I'm sorely tempted to buy a LN low angle smoother. but I need to sell a few other planes first.
4 degree's is not a small difference when you are scrubbing end grain, especially when your not having to fight a chipbreaker that increases back pressure.
But the original low angle Stanley was very much a specialist tool for end grain work.
But the most important trick to finishing end grain is wetting it.
Massively reduces the effort required and prolongs edge life.
The only time I double bevel is when cleaning out mortise's in knotty timber and site work.