it's been 5 years since stopping the hobby (family stuff) and i finally said goodbye to my gear only yesterday when i sold it off for real cheap to a really happy middle aged guy getting BACK IN to the hobby after 20years. it made my happy knowing someone could make use of all that stuff that was sitting in storage for half a decade. i had to come back to your channel to figure out how to arm my drone because i remembered setting this exact arming flow 5 years ago and forgot it and needed to tell the new owner how to do it :). also made me really happy to see that you are still around helping the community learn something new everyday, and are more successful than ever. cheers and maybe i'll be back again in 20 years.
A tip for others following the video. I followed all the programming instructions and it seemed the quad arming was backwards and screwy on how it would arm and disarm. After looking at the video over a few times, I noticed J.B.'s arm mode was at the opposite end of the scale from mine. I connected the quad to betaflight, mode tab, reset the arm mode scale, and "voila" works perfectly. Proud of myself that i was able to figure that out, maybe I really am "learning something" from Mr. Bardwell? Thanks for the great videos and support to all us noobs out here!
Great vid. Learned so much. I took this idea and gave it my own twist . L1 (AND) SH , SF . 1.5 sec delay. Arm and momentary beeper sw. L2 (STKY) L1, disarm with SH Off Mixer CH5 set to L2 Now when I flip the arm sw and hold the momentary beeper sw for 1.5 sec, I will get a beeper sound for 1.5 sec and then props arm. This serves 2 functions. If I accidently have it armed and press on beeper, I get a warning before it arms, secondly, if I am intentionally arming the quad, it let's anyone around know that I am arming the quad . This was so much fun to play around with and to get working. Thanks for all the work you do.
@@JoshuaBardwell what do you think about using a rotary knob > 90% condition instead of the throttle > -99 one? That would feel like a "turn on/off the key" feedback, even more positive and less prone to false activations. Add the 1.5 sec beeper on top of that, looks like a very safe procedure.
This is pretty sweet because you can assign your "Arm" switch to an "Engine Armed" sound effect, and "Engine Start" to L4, which will only sound when the motors should be starting. I think its helpful when you're working with goggles on to have both the tactile feel of the switch positions and the audio in confirming what you're doing.
Joshua, thanks for the video. I was following you way back when you posted this video and I programmed the sticky arming function, at that time. Nice work on your part and posting a video was so helpful. I put the copter away for a few years and pulled it out just recently. It would NOT arm. I panicked. Well, I forgot about the sticky arming feature, which was enabled or available on my Taranis. It will arm now.
Hey Joshua great tip and video. Also a tip for your viewers. I don't fly with an OSD, I know its a personal choice, so I have a timer set up with voice announcements. I set the timer to count down on L4, or Logical switch 4, with your setup and included a special function to reset timer with the SH forward. This way it resets when I begin to fly and also only begins to count down when L4 is active and armed. You can than also expand it with another special function with L4 to play the track of engines armed when L4 becomes active.
Been there done that accidentally (arm that is). Disarmed after i landed after a race, the switch got bumped after i picked up the quad and LUCKILY i was carrying it by the battery which was on the bottom. Scary moment! When you set it up people, take the props off! Thanks for the vid!
Really nice way to Arm. I have another way off failsafe arming, I have two switch's : one is a "master kill", the other is the Arm. It works in the way that any off them can disarm if flipped, but the Arming will only happen when the "Master Kill Switch" is on. This will avoid the "accidental radio bump", as long as any off the switches are set low. And yes, this came up after I had a scaring experience when retriving a drone from a low tree, I sent the drone to the ground, then when I jumped from the tree, the radio switch bumped on me and the drone armed, lucky I was fast enought to hit disarm. Now I have one for you guys, yesterday when I was to land, I hit disarm (as always) at about 30cm from the ground, right after the drone when into FULL power (disarmed !!!), I lost ALL command with the drone, had to quickly turn the radio off, to let failsafe (1sec) bring it to ground (100mt away after a perfect loop), I had my goggles on but this is what by buddy descrived to me (he was on standby to fly and watching me land). So, what happended ???? (BF3.2, Turnigy 9XR with ER9x, Frsky XJT Tx, Frsky XM+ Rx)
Major like from a beginner! I just finished building my first drone and were looking for tips how to setup the arming and everything. This was so help- and useful! Click... subscribed! Cheers man!
I'm newer to fpv and multi rotor but what you suggested is exactly what I started doing on my own. I flip the SF switch the arm/disarm and when I have battery power to the quad and radio on I will disarm with the switch then I raise my throttle as a redundancy. I figured it out by dumb luck when I couldn't get my quad to arm and then noticed after a few minutes my throttle was up just a hair. So I started using the throttle as a second safety.
This is genius. I am always paranoid I am going to bump my switch, and with my luck I'd probably hit the throttle right after and then disaster. Great video, didn't even know this could be done.
great info Josh. about 3 months ago planned to set my radio up this way...I didn't. Today I have a nasty cut on my right hand which cut through my fingernail down close to the bone. (I bumped the arming switch while I was positioning the quad for takeoff) Thankfully for me the quad was set in Horz mode, throttle down, and motors started spinning in idle position. Could have been much worse had i also bumped the throttle up while trying to get away from the spinning props. Needless to say a lesson learned. I am now taking a few 'safety steps' to protect myself. 1. keep the transmitter off until the quad is on the ground ready to go. 2. when plugging in the battery keep all fingers and other body parts away from the props. Roger
Genius Joshua! Tweaked this to work with my switch assignments and just went out to test. I never felt safe trying to unplug the quad battery with the radio swinging about on a neck strap.
you forgot that right after you arm it, you need to make sure it can also disarm if you put the SF switch to disarm. In order to do that, add the SF(up) on the L04 line second area on the right (funny enough, L04 should activate only when you have the sticky scenario, AND SF(up) is actually armed; this way it will deactivate right away when you disarm SF, no matter what the sticky scenario is at). I added a delay of 0.1 to the "AND SF(up)" on the right to avoid the little glitch otherwise.
Thank you for this. I have added to my horus x10, as well as tied it to a widget- shows red/white when L04 is enabled. Really like the safety this adds...... cheers, neil
I have one issue with this. I have once, not often, disarmed accidentally in flight. It should be possible to extend this scheme a little to require the arm switch to be off for say 2 seconds before sticky arm is needed. This would allow emergency rearm, but maintain all of the other great features. And by the way, Thank-you. Fantastic idea, great instructions.
Personally, when I want to disarm, I want to disarm RIGHT FREAKING NOW. I would never put a "safety" on disarm. th-cam.com/video/bTalnzcO0xk/w-d-xo.html
Misunderstanding here. I didn't mean "safety on disarm", I meant for rearm. So, instant disarm. For two seconds instant rearm. After that sticky rearm. I totally agree on "RIGHT FREAKING NOW" for disarm.
That's just clever enough that I might go for it. I have actually had it happen that I disarmed early in a crash and then spent the next second and a half wishing I hadn't while the copter tumbles through the air.
I run "Arm" as" SA-" and found a better change is the have"L4 Stcky L3 !SA-" or in Joshua's example "L4 Stcky L3 !SF↑". This means the switch can go to any position other than armed to disarm. I've always used the middle of the switch as I figured it's harder to knock into that place, and is a great addition to this guide. If doing the same you want the mixer CH5's second line as "+= 0 MAX". Hope that's a helps others too.
Awesome, I have been racking my brain trying to figure this out...Thank God you beat me to it...It works like a champ...I got a three switches repeating the function, SWEET!!!
Awesome video! Even with the newer BetaFlight - Pre Arm functionality, this still helped me set up the logical switching for the rest of my programming. Thanks, JB!
Great tutorial as always Josh! From one Engineer to another, thanks for moving this hobby forward! Keep up the awesome work. Worked like a charm for both Kiss and Betaflight!
Only difference with KISS is that you have to configure the Aux channel to go ... I think it is low for armed. I don't think KISS has a generic "modes" tab like betaflight/cleanflight does.
ive been arming my quad with the throttle right arm left dissarm for a long time because the first time i set it to the switch to arm i bumped it in flight and watched helplessly in horror as my fairly new quad plummeted to the ground.. you cant accidently have the throttle to 0 long enough and to the left to do that lol. this method looks awesome i will have to try it out. thanks joshua!
Just got one as Spektrum range no good with quads. I just have to follow exactly what JBs vids tell me to do. I barely understand it either! I have twice picked up the quad and caught the arm switch whilst setting it down somewhere. Once made me jump and once made it shoot off in the boot of my car. Just so dangerous. Well, now it won't happen again!
Excellent tip, i'm implementing right now. I raised a clear and precise issue on Betaflight GitHub regarding the CleanFlight phenomenon you mentioned, however it got closed without being implemented.
Been doing something similar for months. 2x switches have to be in a specific positions to arm. They have to be in the same position as when I fly helicopters. So left shoulder switch in the middle, right shoulder all the way back. Any other combination is disarmed. Not as fancy, but just uses a simple AND in the Taranis. I haven't had an accidental arm yet (touch wood).
Excellent - excellent - excellent! I'd change the function in the mixer entries to "replace" or whatever it is instead of "add". But that's just OCD, it doesn't really matter.
My buddy accidentally armed just two days ago. Got lucky since he was holding the battery at the time. I just sent this to him and will be implementing it too. With all my inflight adjustments and battery warnings these'll be Logical Switches 23-26 :-D
Just started to implement this in conjunction with my flight mode switches, had a couple of "bumped throttles" last few months, great video Josh, I might modify it a little so the momentary switch can still be used to throttle cut on glow models, bit of thinking to do :)
I wanted to have this safety feature, but when I try the throttle trick (1:45), the engines won't start. I'm using latest stable FC firmware and Betaflight 4.3.0. So now it is not necessary using two switches to arm the quadcopter :-)
1:03 exact the same thing happened to me last week and I came by an unpleasant thumb injury. Now I configured the Frsky X7 in that way, that I have to turn the potentiometer and a switch to arm the copter. Hopefully this arming accident won't repeat...
Pls take note that JB SF(up) switch is Armed so you have to reverse some of the settings if your Armed is SF(down). I missed that and took me awhile to realize that.
I have followed this perfectly. I saw on the Logical Switch screen, it worked on one occasion I mean I saw what your screen did when armed. ! It will not work consistently. I just don't know where to go next. Your screens are easy to replicate. Could you offer suggestions.
KISS still has the throttle "ticking time bomb". I just found this vid and tried it on my latest firmware KISSFCV2F7-1.3-RC36i. Never knew it would do that. If it ever wouldn't arm because of bumped throttle, I would naturally disarm, lower throttle, and rearm, not ever noticing if it would throttle only rearm. It creeped me tha hell out when I just tried it. Yikes! Just an FYI. Thanks for your great vids.
Joshua, I love your videos! I've learned so much from them. But in this one you did now show how you added a second line to the mixer channel for when L4 is not fired. I'm sure people can figure it out but it would be nice to have it in the video for beginners like me.
Just being using Raceflight the last few days and have arming set to a switch which in order to arm you have to on/off on/off to arm would be cool if that feature was on bf.
I totally armed my quad just like you did by accident. I hate that switch on the back. I was holding the Taranis in my arm and quad in my hand and was walking and bumped the switch. Scared me. I was okay. I changed it to a switch in front. Maybe I should use a knob!!?? Thanks for the insight. Love it.
great video! just got my Taranis X9Dplus SE and drones (tinyhawk and TBS oblivion). going to use this setup before i even try to get my drones in the air :)
I use a similar set up on a devo7. I use a switch for arming and set my throttle hold as well to 0 throttle. I need to set both switches to arm and to throttle up my props.
@@JoshuaBardwell Perfect and thanks!!..I know I was complaining about that switch arm..but if thats how it is i want it as easy as possible with the least amount of hoops to jump through.
I set it up blindly following your instructions and when I armed, nothing happened but when I disarmed the motor ran and wouldn't stop. I then had to try to understand by playing over and over. I finally realised that you had reversed the instructions in the mixer. It should read, when L4 is true throttle is 100. When L4 is not true throttle is -100. Thank you for the error, it forced me to persevere until I understood. I find it hard to believe I'm right and you're wrong and I hope you'll correct me if I've missed something but it now works and it didn't before.
The way I show in the video is exactly how mine is set up and works. My best guess is your setup is different from mine somehow. But if it works, it works!
@@JoshuaBardwell I knew it was very unlikely that I'd find an error in one of your how to videos. So now I've gone back to confused, but as you say, if it works, it works. Thanks for a great safety feature.
Hi Joshua, thanks a lot for your work. May I propose an extension to that? Wasting an AUX channel for the beeper can be prevented by modifying your setup. I added a 5th logical switch with "AND SF-down SH-down". then I changed the mixer setting to 70/-70 and added a line "100 L5" This way I can send the beep instruction by holding SH in disarmed mode.
Hi, Something unusual happened, my quad armed itself under strange circumstances. I use the sticky switch arming and like it very much. Story: I may not be exact here because it was an unexpected surprise. I was bench testing to uncover a faulty esc and because I'm using Ghost, all of my receivers are #1. After running the motors (7 inch props on for load) I realized I was testing under the wrong model so once I selected the correct model, it armed and I can't be sure whether it was running higher than Idle because I was panicking to get it disarmed but I don't think I would have panicked if it was just idling. Something to watch for. I did not try to reproduce it.
my experience the other day: Accidentally armed while carrying it back from a crash... rotor hit my nipple. i'm not joking. hilarity ensued as i tried to turn it off without letting go bc it was flailing trying to correct itself against my movements... So yea...dual control arming. good thing. no damage done, thankfully
I'm wondering if using one of those pots to arm is a decent solution. seems unlikely you could bump a nob and arm the copter. The sticky switch is very cool though. Thanks for the tutorial!
Why the MAX override on CH5 mix, instead of a OverrideCH3 -100 on Special Functions? I think the latter is safer, as it overrides the input completely, and keeps to possibility to move the other axes freely, useful on some quadcopters where you can recalibrate or do other things using some stick movement combination.
Very handy. I've always been afraid of an accidental arm as well. I may try this. I am still looking for a way to get a switch to hold my throttle at 1500 until I switch it off for my AP Y6 so that the altitude will hold even if when Yawing I go above or below center. I haven't done a deep search yet on how to do this.
+Joshua Bardwell yep. Well it's not for me it's for whenever I may want to hand over the controls for a minute or two to someone not that experienced. It is just one less thing to worry about. At higher altitudes I do rely on my OSD to see if I'm descending too much. The higher you are the less you can tell obviously.
I like this method, I do something similar. I fly with a sprung throttle (this way I can feel mid-throttle - In one mode I use S2 to adjust throttle max so I can fly overpowered quads comfortably). I use a dual stick arming. SA is a safety (and instant disarm), SF is hold (and instant disarm), SH is arm (and disarm if hold still on). This way knocking any edge switch will also prevent arming if safety is on. I do however force the throttle channel to -100 while SF hold is engaged. Question: Below min_check, is yaw still disabled if switch arming is in use (ie. while in throttle deadband)?
Hey Josh! Great vid! I put it all in my radio and it works great. Only thing is I want to tie my failsafe into it and I'm running into some problems. I set it up so L4 won't enable if the failsafe is enabled, and that works. But if my quad is armed and I hit failsafe, it disarms, but as soon as I come out of failsafe it's armed again. (At least to the radio, not the quad!) how do I get it so if I hit failsafe, when I come out of it I still have to re-arm?
I like the added safety here. Is there a way to use this setup, but also add another line to make L4 not true with a quick flip of the momentary switch? I was to be able to disarm but flipping EITHER SF or SH. Thanks!
I THINK THIS IS A GREAT QUESTION! I DO! I am using the Taranis momentary switch for an assigned telemetry report. Will this also trigger the arming switch? I only tap the momentary switch while flying to get the readout...not holding it for any length of time...if that makes any difference...8) THANK YOU JOSHUA!
I have a QX7S and I had some problems getting this to quite work. I'm using opentx 2.3.1. It took me several hours to get it to work correctly. Maybe this will help someone else. The problem I was having is the the Sticky would not disengage when I disarmed. It would only disarm when I rearmed the quad. And then it would arm immediately the next time. The Sticky is the problem. There are 2 things u need to do.. In the logical switch code. You need to add below what Joshua has in the "AND switch" your disarm switch position in the sticky code. This will force the sticky to go false and disarm the quad. Also you will need to add a delay I used 0.5 or else the motors with turn for a brief second when you flip the arm switch which is not what u want. I also removed the "and" code in the "EDGE" part since beta-flight will not arm if the throttle is not in the 0 position. Also I use a trim switch for the EDGE instead of the beeper switch since i didn't want to hear the beeper ever time i wanted to arm the quad. I by default disable all trims on the radio. Hope the help someone else.
This works great but I was wondering if you could add disarming once armed with the momentary switch as well. Just in case of emergency's having the second switch to disarm fast would be awesome. Thanks
+Dobemandan that would be doable. Have one logical switch that becomes true when SF OR the momentary. Then make the logical switch the disarm condition.
This is generally why I leave my idle up switch in the idle up position after I disarm, means the copter wont arm by accident due to the way the idle up switch works.
Hi Joshua Do you know if theres away to set up the momentary switch on the x9d plus for the trainer switch. Single click to go to the student then single click again to go back to the instructor . I love the way the spektrums work,all the instructor has to do to get control back is move either stick a small amount. This would also be cool if the taranis could work like this also. Thanks for any input RK
I have failsafe mode on a different switch. So before I pick up the copter, flick into failsafe and I get a 2 switch arming process. Its pretty hard to accidentally knock 2 switches into the correct position, especially the smaller ones on the front panel
Hi Joshua, I know this is an old video, but I'm unable to get this arming method working on my Taranis QX7.... I've setup the Logical Switch as described, and the Mixer exactly as shown....but am stuck with how to setup the input for the Arming I think is the cause of it not working. Yes, I'm a noob but really appreciate your knowledge and video's. Keep up the great work ;)
I got the safer switch arming to work but need a quick emergency disarm. You explained it when someone else asked in another question...but I don't understand. Was hoping you can clear it up? Thank you for the reply and all you do.
Joshua, When switching models in my Taranis x9D, the ghost module sets all channels low. this has caused a powered ghost equipped model to arm. I posted a demo video of the effect. It was posted before I figured out why. Left a vid on the immersionrc facebook page warning anyone who may be using this combo.
@@JoshuaBardwell Hi. and Thanks. Is there a safety reason like losing the armed state by keeping the arming channel low and raise it to arm? If that is even possible?
Just when switching models, you don't know what status the new model's channels will be in and you don't want to risk them being in an undefined state. I doubt that the Ghost module itself had the problem. I think probably the new model for some reason commanded the channels to go the new positions?
@@JoshuaBardwell Hi. Thanks for the conversation, AGREED! and I think this will help, you should try it. I Watched the channels on the Ghost display, the arming channel was above the arming threshold. During the model switch the arming channel went low then back high. While low, it armed the copter. You would think this would be brief however my transmitter was waiting for me to correct a switch setting and in one case to get past the check list and during that period where the ghost module was not talking to the Taranis, the arming channel was held low (assuming the ghost sets them all low for safety reasons. In hindsight, I'm planning to remove the post on the IRC facebook page because it isn't the proper place to post the warning. I will be revisiting how to arm because someday, sometime i WILL forget to not change models while quad is powered. Thanks for your time.
That was a really good video. I am just in the process of building my first drone. I learned to fly on cheap smashable drones. Now building FPV for the first time. I am having a contest with my bud to see who gets up and running first. I have everything running except for telemetry and arming to I am well along. I understood this video but have a question. I am a little unclear how to configure cleanflight to support the arming. I know it will have to detect L4 and NOT L4 but I am unsure how to set this up.
Hi Joshua, do you know a way to add the SH switch to disarming too? I can't get it to work, because in your case on channel 5, i can only use one !L4, and not for example !L4 and !L7, where L5,L6 would be in place of L1 and L3
No delay, but it would be rather difficult to bump SE. Still allows me to disarm quickly. Then I have the Start timer on SF, and the reset on SE, so I can land and disarm in the middle of a pack, without tripping the auto reset timer.
I've never had such a condition yet. As long as failsafe is set to cut motors, I haven't had to kill the motors except for one condition: when airmode is on and I'm landing and I want to stop props from spinning. I have the right side rocker switch set up to switch between modes where airmode is ON and OFF while still in acro mode. That way, as soon as I bring quad in for landing, I flip that rocker switch to stop props from spinning. Also, mine is set up to NOT spin props when armed. So, whenever throttle is at zero, the props aren't spinning. Am I missing something? Is there another situation I don't see where I would need to cut motors immediately?
Slightly of topic; is it possible to set the momentary switch to stay at the state when its switched? Let's say I flip the switch it goes to 100, usually when the switch goes back it will go to -100 again, but I want it to stay at 100 until I flip the switch a second time. Any idea how I can do this?
So I did everything in the video perfectly. Problem is you left out what to do next to set your arm mode in Betaflight. Do you set it up normally like if you had a one click switch arm or is there a special setup for the sticky switch arm in Betaflight? Because my drone isn't arming. EDIT: To setup the arming mode in Betaflight first make sure your momentary switch isn't set for anything else, if so use another switch for that function. Once you've made sure your momentary switch is cleared and not being used, Go to the arm mode, set it to "Auto" and perform your sticky switch arming sequence. Your Arm mode will pick it up (mine picked it up as AUX 1) and now from there move your range tabs to the appropriate position and save.
Great video even a newbie could follow (-; I do have a simple question about why you chose for the up position on switch SF to be armed and the down position on SF to be un-armed? Is there some ergonomic reason about how you hold your transmitter that makes it better this way?
I did just that and coupled it with a physical switch. A little simpler, and I don't find it clumsy at all. For anyone who wants to try this, the pot (knob) must first be set in a logical switch. I made one using a>x SB1 90, which activates the switch when the pot is in the top 5% of its value spektrum. Then you make a second logical switch type AND with the first logical switch (LS1 in my case) and your regular arm switch down. Then set that new logical switch as an AUX channel in the mixer and use that as your Arming channel. Both knob and switch must be engaged to arm, and if either is disangeged, it disarms.
Real good help there! Will definitely do this setting on all my profiles! One I'm thinking would need some special treatment is the double arm for raceflight. Have a fix for that yet? :)
Question 1 of 2: Safety wise, does it matter if the arming signal is on the left or the right end of the switch range? One of the reasons I ask this is because the switch positions on my build seem to be at different levels for the various channels with the transmitter off and Q2: am wondering if the arm range were to be picked where the switch lied, would the copter arm on power up? I have just adopted stick arming only because of this awesome way to do it (and I think I disarmed during a hard turn :-)
unrelated topic, did I read somewhere that now we could assign a cli variable to a mode and aux channel in betaflight...im prob confusing my quads with my helis and multiwii boards with mikado vcontrol...but man would be nice, can we petition for it!
I like the manner of teaching that someone who till now just surfed the net can follow your logic and be able to amp up this great radio. I do have a problem in that I had already programmed functions for the first five logic switches and just plugged in 6, 7,8, and 9 where you had 1, 2, 3, 4. I made sure that the channel monitor graph tracked correctly and that the direction arrow on the outputs page changed when SH was held up. I cant see any differences from your program to mine other than I started father down the logic page but it has no effect on the throttle at all and I can still run the motor anytime I advance the stick. Does your setup only work in L1 thru L4 or can it be transposed farther down
Any guess why it did not connect to the channel one? I do like the way it's set up and would like to use it. I did connect to ch5 like on ur vid. I just wonder if it should have been inserted to chk instead
I have looked at this again and all my stuff is exactly as the video shows but I am still not able to get it to work. When I plug in the lipo to the esc the rcvr goes thru all the beeps and will also in a couple of seconds go into motor arm as long as the throttle stick is down. I guess what I dont understand (coming from JR/Spektrum radios) is how do In link ch5 to ch1. Do I move, copy, or insert ch5. Sorry if this seems tedious but I am determined to beat the radio one way or another. LOL
Kind of getting this but when I set it to the same as you it would only disarm. Until I switch the 100 and -100. It works as it should except the false part is the wrong way around I'm thinking maybe I should have just changed the true and false values. My switch disarm is also switch away from me and arm is towards me.
@@JoshuaBardwell Hey dude. Excellent vid... I'm new to the hobby (but a professional tinkerer). I just got an x9d plus, it appears as if the off position is when the switches are down for me (The remote complains when I turn it on if all the switches aren't down). I thought I was doing something wrong since I had to swap the up and down on my arm switch and swap the positive and negative values, but from the original comment it appears as if I'm not the only one. Might want to make a mention of that in the description to help the noobs like me.
would you mind sharing (and maybe this is a whole other video) what your other switches do? I always like to see how others do things in case there is a more efficient or logical way of setting things up.
cool, I have disarm/arm/blackbox-arm on a 3 position switch and beeper on the 2 position switch. I used to have arm on the 2 position like you though and have been thinking of going back to that cause maybe it's better to just worry about on/off for arming and make any extras on a different switch. funny how we have all these switches and really use a few of them. :)
This video is recommended in the Holybro Kopis 2 manual. Because it uses the DJI HD system, and thus the DJI controller, OpenTX hasn't been implemented by DJI. Is there a method to have 2-step arming with the DJI controller. I'm thinking no, but I'm wrong more ofter than right lately.
Thanks for this nice video! I'm setting up a standard 4-channel model plane with your arming system so that I can copy this for all future models. I am a new Taranis user. Just as you demonstrated, I've got the Logical Switches working perfectly! I'm having trouble linking it to my Mixer values, same as yours. They don't seem to have any effect. From your narration...How do I know that Ch5 or Aux1 are my arming channels? (Fairly new radio, same as yours. Taranis X9+, OpenTx) Thanks in advance! Garland
+Safety48 the mixer lines need to be set up with a source of the input lines. Or you can just take the stick outputs as a source to the mixer directly. For a simple build with no expo or custom curves the latter is fine.
Hey joshua.. i was wondering if you can tell me how to do this but instead of using the stucky switch i want to use one of the 3 pos. Switches on the right side of taranis and the 2 pos. Switch on the left side (i think it SE or SD).. i cant figure out how to use 2 switcjes to arm.. thanks
If you are not using a momentary switch then you don't need to use a sticky switch at all. Just set up a Logical Switch that is TRUE when SF=UP and SH=DOWN or whatever logic you prefer.
Switch forward for armed and away for disarmed is how a lot of pilots do it. The old standard was that switches away was the default/neutral position and switches towards is active. So you could prep your transmitter by pushing all switches away. To do this, you would just invert the mixer logic. Or change the Arm Mode so "high" channel is armed and "low" is disarmed.
Thanks for the reply even though I do not completely understand. You move a little fast for me so I have to review what your doing several times. I am just glad it works and thanks for all the amazing help you've given me.
Sorry, Adding... A little tweak. I play a warning message when the first switch is toggled in case it is unknowingly hit and also those near me know when I'm arming.
Thanks, I was wondering if you could do this. I had the same incident as you where I had the taranis on a neck stap and I hit the arm switch and the prop slit half my finger open
Just set this all up but i have one problem, when i first flick the arm switch, before i flick the momentary switch, the motors spin up for a quick second then back off. How can i fix this?
Hi Joshua, nice programming but how's about accidentally disarming the motors in midair? Any suggestion? Maybe also with SH switch or that disarming is only possible while throttle is at lowest position?
My answer to accidental disarming: th-cam.com/video/bTalnzcO0xk/w-d-xo.html When I want to disarm, I want to disarm right f'ing now. If you feel different, a solution where you only disarm when the throttle is down could work well. Bear in mind that Cleanflight has an option to only allow disarm when the throttle is at zero, so no Taranis wizardry is required, although it would also be easy to do in Taranis.
it's been 5 years since stopping the hobby (family stuff) and i finally
said goodbye to my gear only yesterday when i sold it off for real cheap
to a really happy middle aged guy getting BACK IN to the hobby after
20years. it made my happy knowing someone could make use of all that
stuff that was sitting in storage for half a decade. i had to come back
to your channel to figure out how to arm my drone because i remembered setting this exact arming flow 5 years ago and forgot it and needed to tell the new owner how to do it :). also made me really happy to see that you are still around helping the community learn something new everyday, and are more successful than ever. cheers and maybe i'll be back again in 20 years.
A tip for others following the video. I followed all the programming instructions and it seemed the quad arming was backwards and screwy on how it would arm and disarm. After looking at the video over a few times, I noticed J.B.'s arm mode was at the opposite end of the scale from mine. I connected the quad to betaflight, mode tab, reset the arm mode scale, and "voila" works perfectly. Proud of myself that i was able to figure that out, maybe I really am "learning something" from Mr. Bardwell? Thanks for the great videos and support to all us noobs out here!
Good one :-)
Great vid. Learned so much.
I took this idea and gave it my own twist .
L1 (AND) SH , SF . 1.5 sec delay. Arm and momentary beeper sw.
L2 (STKY) L1, disarm with SH Off
Mixer CH5 set to L2
Now when I flip the arm sw and hold the momentary beeper sw for 1.5 sec, I will get a beeper sound for 1.5 sec and then props arm. This serves 2 functions. If I accidently have it armed and press on beeper, I get a warning before it arms, secondly, if I am intentionally arming the quad, it let's anyone around know that I am arming the quad . This was so much fun to play around with and to get working. Thanks for all the work you do.
Very nice idea. I like that a lot.
@@JoshuaBardwell what do you think about using a rotary knob > 90% condition instead of the throttle > -99 one? That would feel like a "turn on/off the key" feedback, even more positive and less prone to false activations.
Add the 1.5 sec beeper on top of that, looks like a very safe procedure.
This is pretty sweet because you can assign your "Arm" switch to an "Engine Armed" sound effect, and "Engine Start" to L4, which will only sound when the motors should be starting. I think its helpful when you're working with goggles on to have both the tactile feel of the switch positions and the audio in confirming what you're doing.
Joshua, thanks for the video. I was following you way back when you posted this video and I programmed the sticky arming function, at that time. Nice work on your part and posting a video was so helpful. I put the copter away for a few years and pulled it out just recently. It would NOT arm. I panicked. Well, I forgot about the sticky arming feature, which was enabled or available on my Taranis. It will arm now.
Hey Joshua great tip and video. Also a tip for your viewers. I don't fly with an OSD, I know its a personal choice, so I have a timer set up with voice announcements. I set the timer to count down on L4, or Logical switch 4, with your setup and included a special function to reset timer with the SH forward. This way it resets when I begin to fly and also only begins to count down when L4 is active and armed. You can than also expand it with another special function with L4 to play the track of engines armed when L4 becomes active.
Good tips. The Taranis is a real Swiss-army knife!
I have once done a accidental arm like u and ever since I have always been very paranoid. This video is a great way of fixing the problem!
Been there done that accidentally (arm that is). Disarmed after i landed after a race, the switch got bumped after i picked up the quad and LUCKILY i was carrying it by the battery which was on the bottom. Scary moment! When you set it up people, take the props off! Thanks for the vid!
Really nice way to Arm.
I have another way off failsafe arming, I have two switch's : one is a "master kill", the other is the Arm.
It works in the way that any off them can disarm if flipped, but the Arming will only happen when the "Master Kill Switch" is on.
This will avoid the "accidental radio bump", as long as any off the switches are set low.
And yes, this came up after I had a scaring experience when retriving a drone from a low tree, I sent the drone to the ground, then when I jumped from the tree, the radio switch bumped on me and the drone armed, lucky I was fast enought to hit disarm.
Now I have one for you guys, yesterday when I was to land, I hit disarm (as always) at about 30cm from the ground, right after the drone when into FULL power (disarmed !!!), I lost ALL command with the drone, had to quickly turn the radio off, to let failsafe (1sec) bring it to ground (100mt away after a perfect loop), I had my goggles on but this is what by buddy descrived to me (he was on standby to fly and watching me land). So, what happended ????
(BF3.2, Turnigy 9XR with ER9x, Frsky XJT Tx, Frsky XM+ Rx)
its DEC 2021. almost 2022, EdgeTX. your vid is still very accurate and useful ! Thanks JB !!!
Major like from a beginner! I just finished building my first drone and were looking for tips how to setup the arming and everything. This was so help- and useful! Click... subscribed! Cheers man!
I'm newer to fpv and multi rotor but what you suggested is exactly what I started doing on my own. I flip the SF switch the arm/disarm and when I have battery power to the quad and radio on I will disarm with the switch then I raise my throttle as a redundancy. I figured it out by dumb luck when I couldn't get my quad to arm and then noticed after a few minutes my throttle was up just a hair. So I started using the throttle as a second safety.
This is genius. I am always paranoid I am going to bump my switch, and with my luck I'd probably hit the throttle right after and then disaster. Great video, didn't even know this could be done.
great info Josh. about 3 months ago planned to set my radio up this way...I didn't. Today I have a nasty cut on my right hand which cut through my fingernail down close to the bone. (I bumped the arming switch while I was positioning the quad for takeoff) Thankfully for me the quad was set in Horz mode, throttle down, and motors started spinning in idle position. Could have been much worse had i also bumped the throttle up while trying to get away from the spinning props. Needless to say a lesson learned. I am now taking a few 'safety steps' to protect myself. 1. keep the transmitter off until the quad is on the ground ready to go. 2. when plugging in the battery keep all fingers and other body parts away from the props. Roger
Genius Joshua! Tweaked this to work with my switch assignments and just went out to test. I never felt safe trying to unplug the quad battery with the radio swinging about on a neck strap.
you forgot that right after you arm it, you need to make sure it can also disarm if you put the SF switch to disarm. In order to do that, add the SF(up) on the L04 line second area on the right (funny enough, L04 should activate only when you have the sticky scenario, AND SF(up) is actually armed; this way it will deactivate right away when you disarm SF, no matter what the sticky scenario is at). I added a delay of 0.1 to the "AND SF(up)" on the right to avoid the little glitch otherwise.
Thank you for this. I have added to my horus x10, as well as tied it to a widget- shows red/white when L04 is enabled. Really like the safety this adds...... cheers, neil
Mr B. Awesome as always. I really have learnt SOOOOO much from you this month !
The logic switches are pretty cool. I can imagine some fun uses. Love this extra safety step.
Every time i get more and more amazed by the taranis. Best buy ever!
That's a really great tip Joshua. On Mine SC and SD have to be in the middle to arm. SC up SD down is beeper and SC down SD middle is Blackbox on/off.
I have one issue with this. I have once, not often, disarmed accidentally in flight. It should be possible to extend this scheme a little to require the arm switch to be off for say 2 seconds before sticky arm is needed. This would allow emergency rearm, but maintain all of the other great features. And by the way, Thank-you. Fantastic idea, great instructions.
Personally, when I want to disarm, I want to disarm RIGHT FREAKING NOW. I would never put a "safety" on disarm.
th-cam.com/video/bTalnzcO0xk/w-d-xo.html
Misunderstanding here. I didn't mean "safety on disarm", I meant for rearm. So, instant disarm. For two seconds instant rearm. After that sticky rearm. I totally agree on "RIGHT FREAKING NOW" for disarm.
Ohhhhhh. That's clever.
That's just clever enough that I might go for it. I have actually had it happen that I disarmed early in a crash and then spent the next second and a half wishing I hadn't while the copter tumbles through the air.
I run "Arm" as" SA-" and found a better change is the have"L4 Stcky L3 !SA-" or in Joshua's example "L4 Stcky L3 !SF↑". This means the switch can go to any position other than armed to disarm. I've always used the middle of the switch as I figured it's harder to knock into that place, and is a great addition to this guide. If doing the same you want the mixer CH5's second line as "+= 0 MAX". Hope that's a helps others too.
Awesome, I have been racking my brain trying to figure this out...Thank God you beat me to it...It works like a champ...I got a three switches repeating the function, SWEET!!!
Took me all day to get it working correctly But It is working and I love it. Thanks for your knowledge!!!
Awesome video! Even with the newer BetaFlight - Pre Arm functionality, this still helped me set up the logical switching for the rest of my programming. Thanks, JB!
Great tutorial as always Josh! From one Engineer to another, thanks for moving this hobby forward! Keep up the awesome work. Worked like a charm for both Kiss and Betaflight!
Only difference with KISS is that you have to configure the Aux channel to go ... I think it is low for armed. I don't think KISS has a generic "modes" tab like betaflight/cleanflight does.
Thanks for this. You explained things well enough here that I was able to apply this to my electric aircraft.
ive been arming my quad with the throttle right arm left dissarm for a long time because the first time i set it to the switch to arm i bumped it in flight and watched helplessly in horror as my fairly new quad plummeted to the ground.. you cant accidently have the throttle to 0 long enough and to the left to do that lol.
this method looks awesome i will have to try it out. thanks joshua!
+rayikaikin this method still instantly disarms. Just don't bump that switch.
how do i set this up on a X7? My screen isnt big as yours to see how the rest is set up, any howto manual on internet?
I haven't used an X7 to be able to say.
I love and hate the Taranis, love everything it can do, hate that I'm to stupid to understand it!!
Me too, brother.
@@jimmcminnsr6309 Me too, brothers
Ooo me too
Just got one as Spektrum range no good with quads. I just have to follow exactly what JBs vids tell me to do. I barely understand it either! I have twice picked up the quad and caught the arm switch whilst setting it down somewhere. Once made me jump and once made it shoot off in the boot of my car. Just so dangerous. Well, now it won't happen again!
It is not TARANIS boys, is yours genome....you have opportunity to sue yours Ma & Pa and ask for compensations
Excellent tip, i'm implementing right now. I raised a clear and precise issue on Betaflight GitHub regarding the CleanFlight phenomenon you mentioned, however it got closed without being implemented.
Been doing something similar for months. 2x switches have to be in a specific positions to arm. They have to be in the same position as when I fly helicopters. So left shoulder switch in the middle, right shoulder all the way back. Any other combination is disarmed.
Not as fancy, but just uses a simple AND in the Taranis.
I haven't had an accidental arm yet (touch wood).
Wanted to do this 4 years ago just sat down thank u JB
Excellent - excellent - excellent!
I'd change the function in the mixer entries to "replace" or whatever it is instead of "add". But that's just OCD, it doesn't really matter.
+Chris Mavrakis you're technically right, but because the switches are mutually exclusive it doesn't matter.
Thanks, Josh. I was able to follow this for my Jumper T16 ProHall v2.
My buddy accidentally armed just two days ago. Got lucky since he was holding the battery at the time. I just sent this to him and will be implementing it too. With all my inflight adjustments and battery warnings these'll be Logical Switches 23-26 :-D
Just started to implement this in conjunction with my flight mode switches, had a couple of "bumped throttles" last few months, great video Josh, I might modify it a little so the momentary switch can still be used to throttle cut on glow models, bit of thinking to do :)
A+ for your work on puppy death prevention.
I wanted to have this safety feature, but when I try the throttle trick (1:45), the engines won't start. I'm using latest stable FC firmware and Betaflight 4.3.0. So now it is not necessary using two switches to arm the quadcopter :-)
1:03 exact the same thing happened to me last week and I came by an unpleasant thumb injury. Now I configured the Frsky X7 in that way, that I have to turn the potentiometer and a switch to arm the copter. Hopefully this arming accident won't repeat...
Pls take note that JB SF(up) switch is Armed so you have to reverse some of the settings if your Armed is SF(down). I missed that and took me awhile to realize that.
I have followed this perfectly. I saw on the Logical Switch screen, it worked on one occasion I mean I saw what your screen did when armed. ! It will not work consistently. I just don't know where to go next. Your screens are easy to replicate. Could you offer suggestions.
KISS still has the throttle "ticking time bomb". I just found this vid and tried it on my latest firmware KISSFCV2F7-1.3-RC36i. Never knew it would do that. If it ever wouldn't arm because of bumped throttle, I would naturally disarm, lower throttle, and rearm, not ever noticing if it would throttle only rearm. It creeped me tha hell out when I just tried it. Yikes! Just an FYI. Thanks for your great vids.
Joshua, I love your videos! I've learned so much from them. But in this one you did now show how you added a second line to the mixer channel for when L4 is not fired. I'm sure people can figure it out but it would be nice to have it in the video for beginners like me.
Just being using Raceflight the last few days and have arming set to a switch which in order to arm you have to on/off on/off to arm would be cool if that feature was on bf.
I love this method, been using it for a while now, very intuitive
I totally armed my quad just like you did by accident. I hate that switch on the back. I was holding the Taranis in my arm and quad in my hand and was walking and bumped the switch. Scared me. I was okay. I changed it to a switch in front. Maybe I should use a knob!!?? Thanks for the insight. Love it.
great video! just got my Taranis X9Dplus SE and drones (tinyhawk and TBS oblivion). going to use this setup before i even try to get my drones in the air :)
I use a similar set up on a devo7. I use a switch for arming and set my throttle hold as well to 0 throttle. I need to set both switches to arm and to throttle up my props.
Must my 5 channel need to be setup exactly like 5:13 in order to arm?...I dont have the mix part,just the channel 5 toggle.
That's fine you just have to be more careful not to arm accidentally.
@@JoshuaBardwell Perfect and thanks!!..I know I was complaining about that switch arm..but if thats how it is i want it as easy as possible with the least amount of hoops to jump through.
I set it up blindly following your instructions and when I armed, nothing happened but when I disarmed the motor ran and wouldn't stop. I then had to try to understand by playing over and over. I finally realised that you had reversed the instructions in the mixer.
It should read, when L4 is true throttle is 100. When L4 is not true throttle is -100.
Thank you for the error, it forced me to persevere until I understood.
I find it hard to believe I'm right and you're wrong and I hope you'll correct me if I've missed something but it now works and it didn't before.
The way I show in the video is exactly how mine is set up and works. My best guess is your setup is different from mine somehow. But if it works, it works!
@@JoshuaBardwell I knew it was very unlikely that I'd find an error in one of your how to videos. So now I've gone back to confused, but as you say, if it works, it works.
Thanks for a great safety feature.
Hi Joshua, thanks a lot for your work. May I propose an extension to that? Wasting an AUX channel for the beeper can be prevented by modifying your setup. I added a 5th logical switch with "AND SF-down SH-down". then I changed the mixer setting to 70/-70 and added a line "100 L5" This way I can send the beep instruction by holding SH in disarmed mode.
Yeah. I'm just lazy about it.
Hi, Something unusual happened, my quad armed itself under strange circumstances. I use the sticky switch arming and like it very much. Story: I may not be exact here because it was an unexpected surprise. I was bench testing to uncover a faulty esc and because I'm using Ghost, all of my receivers are #1. After running the motors (7 inch props on for load) I realized I was testing under the wrong model so once I selected the correct model, it armed and I can't be sure whether it was running higher than Idle because I was panicking to get it disarmed but I don't think I would have panicked if it was just idling. Something to watch for. I did not try to reproduce it.
my experience the other day:
Accidentally armed while carrying it back from a crash...
rotor hit my nipple. i'm not joking. hilarity ensued as i tried to turn it off without letting go bc it was flailing trying to correct itself against my movements...
So yea...dual control arming. good thing. no damage done, thankfully
I'm wondering if using one of those pots to arm is a decent solution. seems unlikely you could bump a nob and arm the copter. The sticky switch is very cool though. Thanks for the tutorial!
This was awesome!! Thought about doing something like this even before getting my Taranis. Thanks for sharing :)
Why the MAX override on CH5 mix, instead of a OverrideCH3 -100 on Special Functions? I think the latter is safer, as it overrides the input completely, and keeps to possibility to move the other axes freely, useful on some quadcopters where you can recalibrate or do other things using some stick movement combination.
Very handy. I've always been afraid of an accidental arm as well. I may try this.
I am still looking for a way to get a switch to hold my throttle at 1500 until I switch it off for my AP Y6 so that the altitude will hold even if when Yawing I go above or below center. I haven't done a deep search yet on how to do this.
Managing the throttle while yawing is just a matter of practice. Walk and chew gum, you know?
+Joshua Bardwell yep. Well it's not for me it's for whenever I may want to hand over the controls for a minute or two to someone not that experienced. It is just one less thing to worry about. At higher altitudes I do rely on my OSD to see if I'm descending too much. The higher you are the less you can tell obviously.
This is brilliant!! I've been wanting to set something like this up on my 9xr for a while...
Awesome!
Hah, exactly what I was looking to do. your channel is becoming invaluable. The stick down arming is annoying :P
I like this method, I do something similar.
I fly with a sprung throttle (this way I can feel mid-throttle - In one mode I use S2 to adjust throttle max so I can fly overpowered quads comfortably). I use a dual stick arming. SA is a safety (and instant disarm), SF is hold (and instant disarm), SH is arm (and disarm if hold still on). This way knocking any edge switch will also prevent arming if safety is on. I do however force the throttle channel to -100 while SF hold is engaged.
Question: Below min_check, is yaw still disabled if switch arming is in use (ie. while in throttle deadband)?
Hey Josh! Great vid! I put it all in my radio and it works great. Only thing is I want to tie my failsafe into it and I'm running into some problems. I set it up so L4 won't enable if the failsafe is enabled, and that works. But if my quad is armed and I hit failsafe, it disarms, but as soon as I come out of failsafe it's armed again. (At least to the radio, not the quad!) how do I get it so if I hit failsafe, when I come out of it I still have to re-arm?
Awesome fix for accidental arming! Thanks
I like the added safety here. Is there a way to use this setup, but also add another line to make L4 not true with a quick flip of the momentary switch? I was to be able to disarm but flipping EITHER SF or SH.
Thanks!
+Marshall Campbell you can do that. Make a new line that is true whenever SF or SH and make that line be the end condition for the sticky.
I THINK THIS IS A GREAT QUESTION! I DO!
I am using the Taranis momentary switch for an assigned telemetry report. Will this also trigger the arming switch? I only tap the momentary switch while flying to get the readout...not holding it for any length of time...if that makes any difference...8)
THANK YOU JOSHUA!
I have a QX7S and I had some problems getting this to quite work. I'm using opentx 2.3.1. It took me several hours to get it to work correctly. Maybe this will help someone else. The problem I was having is the the Sticky would not disengage when I disarmed. It would only disarm when I rearmed the quad. And then it would arm immediately the next time. The Sticky is the problem. There are 2 things u need to do.. In the logical switch code. You need to add below what Joshua has in the "AND switch" your disarm switch position in the sticky code. This will force the sticky to go false and disarm the quad. Also you will need to add a delay I used 0.5 or else the motors with turn for a brief second when you flip the arm switch which is not what u want. I also removed the "and" code in the "EDGE" part since beta-flight will not arm if the throttle is not in the 0 position. Also I use a trim switch for the EDGE instead of the beeper switch since i didn't want to hear the beeper ever time i wanted to arm the quad. I by default disable all trims on the radio. Hope the help someone else.
This works great but I was wondering if you could add disarming once armed with the momentary switch as well. Just in case of emergency's having the second switch to disarm fast would be awesome. Thanks
+Dobemandan that would be doable. Have one logical switch that becomes true when SF OR the momentary. Then make the logical switch the disarm condition.
This is generally why I leave my idle up switch in the idle up position after I disarm, means the copter wont arm by accident due to the way the idle up switch works.
Yup. I also used to push my throttle slightly up to lock out arming.
Hi Joshua
Do you know if theres away to set up the momentary switch on the x9d plus for the trainer switch. Single click to go to the student then single click again to go back to the instructor .
I love the way the spektrums work,all the instructor has to do to get control back is move either stick a small amount. This would also be cool if the taranis could work like this also.
Thanks for any input
RK
Yes, you can definitely do this. All trainer functions can be tied to activate only when a switch is set.
I have failsafe mode on a different switch. So before I pick up the copter, flick into failsafe and I get a 2 switch arming process. Its pretty hard to accidentally knock 2 switches into the correct position, especially the smaller ones on the front panel
Hi Joshua, I know this is an old video, but I'm unable to get this arming method working on my Taranis QX7.... I've setup the Logical Switch as described, and the Mixer exactly as shown....but am stuck with how to setup the input for the Arming I think is the cause of it not working. Yes, I'm a noob but really appreciate your knowledge and video's. Keep up the great work ;)
I got the safer switch arming to work but need a quick emergency disarm. You explained it when someone else asked in another question...but I don't understand. Was hoping you can clear it up? Thank you for the reply and all you do.
Safer switch arming doesn't change disarm at all. Disarming is still a one-step process. Just flick the switch back agai.
Guess something is going on with my Kiss setup...cause flipping the switch back isn't disarming. Thanks again!
+Angel Pagan check the aux channel. Does it move? The logic is probably wrong.
Joshua, When switching models in my Taranis x9D, the ghost module sets all channels low. this has caused a powered ghost equipped model to arm. I posted a demo video of the effect. It was posted before I figured out why. Left a vid on the immersionrc facebook page warning anyone who may be using this combo.
I definitely think you should not be changing models with the bound model powered up.
@@JoshuaBardwell Hi. and Thanks. Is there a safety reason like losing the armed state by keeping the arming channel low and raise it to arm? If that is even possible?
Just when switching models, you don't know what status the new model's channels will be in and you don't want to risk them being in an undefined state. I doubt that the Ghost module itself had the problem. I think probably the new model for some reason commanded the channels to go the new positions?
@@JoshuaBardwell Hi. Thanks for the conversation, AGREED! and I think this will help, you should try it. I Watched the channels on the Ghost display, the arming channel was above the arming threshold. During the model switch the arming channel went low then back high. While low, it armed the copter. You would think this would be brief however my transmitter was waiting for me to correct a switch setting and in one case to get past the check list and during that period where the ghost module was not talking to the Taranis, the arming channel was held low (assuming the ghost sets them all low for safety reasons. In hindsight, I'm planning to remove the post on the IRC facebook page because it isn't the proper place to post the warning. I will be revisiting how to arm because someday, sometime i WILL forget to not change models while quad is powered. Thanks for your time.
That was a really good video. I am just in the process of building my first drone. I learned to fly on cheap smashable drones. Now building FPV for the first time. I am having a contest with my bud to see who gets up and running first. I have everything running except for telemetry and arming to I am well along. I understood this video but have a question. I am a little unclear how to configure cleanflight to support the arming. I know it will have to detect L4 and NOT L4 but I am unsure how to set this up.
th-cam.com/video/SLy28mYiAzU/w-d-xo.html
Hi Joshua, do you know a way to add the SH switch to disarming too? I can't get it to work, because in your case on channel 5, i can only use one !L4, and not for example !L4 and !L7, where L5,L6 would be in place of L1 and L3
Thx man! Worked perfectly on the Frsky qx7! ^^
what did u change in the mixer screen to get the !L4 100 and L4 -100
I just have "SF OverrideCH5 -100" in the Special functions tab, so I basically have SF and SE set up as an AND gate to arm
+PiManASM but no delay right? Still a simple and clever solution.
No delay, but it would be rather difficult to bump SE. Still allows me to disarm quickly. Then I have the Start timer on SF, and the reset on SE, so I can land and disarm in the middle of a pack, without tripping the auto reset timer.
I put my arm switch on of the KNOBS on the Taranis. So much safer. No issue of ever bumping it. Just have to turn knob up all the way to arm it.
How do you disarm immediately in the event of an unsafe condition?
I've never had such a condition yet. As long as failsafe is set to cut motors, I haven't had to kill the motors except for one condition: when airmode is on and I'm landing and I want to stop props from spinning. I have the right side rocker switch set up to switch between modes where airmode is ON and OFF while still in acro mode. That way, as soon as I bring quad in for landing, I flip that rocker switch to stop props from spinning. Also, mine is set up to NOT spin props when armed. So, whenever throttle is at zero, the props aren't spinning. Am I missing something? Is there another situation I don't see where I would need to cut motors immediately?
Slightly of topic; is it possible to set the momentary switch to stay at the state when its switched? Let's say I flip the switch it goes to 100, usually when the switch goes back it will go to -100 again, but I want it to stay at 100 until I flip the switch a second time. Any idea how I can do this?
Thanks for the video, I use a modified version for my electric fixed wings.
So I did everything in the video perfectly. Problem is you left out what to do next to set your arm mode in Betaflight. Do you set it up normally like if you had a one click switch arm or is there a special setup for the sticky switch arm in Betaflight? Because my drone isn't arming.
EDIT: To setup the arming mode in Betaflight first make sure your momentary switch isn't set for anything else, if so use another switch for that function. Once you've made sure your momentary switch is cleared and not being used, Go to the arm mode, set it to "Auto" and perform your sticky switch arming sequence. Your Arm mode will pick it up (mine picked it up as AUX 1) and now from there move your range tabs to the appropriate position and save.
You set it up based on the Aux channel like normal.
At your mixer screen I noticed that your ch5 doesn't show the input symbol - only MAX. At my Taranis plus I can't get rid of the input symbol.
Hold down the ENTER button and it should be able to be set in the Edit menu.
Great video even a newbie could follow (-; I do have a simple question about why you chose for the up position on switch SF to be armed and the down position on SF to be un-armed? Is there some ergonomic reason about how you hold your transmitter that makes it better this way?
I feel better disarming swiping the switch towards me rather than pushing it away.
How about putting the arming on one of the turn-knobs? I mean.. You'd be hard pressed to accidentally turn those? Seems pretty safe to me?
Seems a little clumsy, but the Taranis could do it for sure. Just make sure you can quickly disarm!
I agree on the clumsy part indeed.. Safe it is though :)
I did just that and coupled it with a physical switch. A little simpler, and I don't find it clumsy at all. For anyone who wants to try this, the pot (knob) must first be set in a logical switch. I made one using a>x SB1 90, which activates the switch when the pot is in the top 5% of its value spektrum. Then you make a second logical switch type AND with the first logical switch (LS1 in my case) and your regular arm switch down. Then set that new logical switch as an AUX channel in the mixer and use that as your Arming channel. Both knob and switch must be engaged to arm, and if either is disangeged, it disarms.
Real good help there! Will definitely do this setting on all my profiles!
One I'm thinking would need some special treatment is the double arm for raceflight. Have a fix for that yet? :)
Question 1 of 2: Safety wise, does it matter if the arming signal is on the left or the right end of the switch range? One of the reasons I ask this is because the switch positions on my build seem to be at different levels for the various channels with the transmitter off and Q2: am wondering if the arm range were to be picked where the switch lied, would the copter arm on power up? I have just adopted stick arming only because of this awesome way to do it (and I think I disarmed during a hard turn :-)
It doesn't matter exactly where the arming position or channel value is. Just as long as the logic is set up correctly.
unrelated topic, did I read somewhere that now we could assign a cli variable to a mode and aux channel in betaflight...im prob confusing my quads with my helis and multiwii boards with mikado vcontrol...but man would be nice, can we petition for it!
I like the manner of teaching that someone who till now just surfed the net can follow your logic and be able to amp up this great radio. I do have a problem in that I had already programmed functions for the first five logic switches and just plugged in 6, 7,8, and 9 where you had 1, 2, 3, 4. I made sure that the channel monitor graph tracked correctly and that the direction arrow on the outputs page changed when SH was held up. I cant see any differences from your program to mine other than I started father down the logic page but it has no effect on the throttle at all and I can still run the motor anytime I advance the stick. Does your setup only work in L1 thru L4 or can it be transposed farther down
No, it doesn't matter which specific switches you use, as long as the logic is correct. Congrats on getting it all set up. Happy flying!
Any guess why it did not connect to the channel one? I do like the way it's set up and would like to use it.
I did connect to ch5 like on ur vid. I just wonder if it should have been inserted to chk instead
I used Ch5 because I use Aux1 to arm, for switch arming.
I have looked at this again and all my stuff is exactly as the video shows but I am still not able to get it to work. When I plug in the lipo to the esc the rcvr goes thru all the beeps and will also in a couple of seconds go into motor arm as long as the throttle stick is down. I guess what I dont understand (coming from JR/Spektrum radios) is how do In link ch5 to ch1. Do I move, copy, or insert ch5.
Sorry if this seems tedious but I am determined to beat the radio one way or another. LOL
Jim Dieckow I'm really sorry, but I'm not following what you're asking. I don't know what you mean by "link ch5 to ch1".
Kind of getting this but when I set it to the same as you it would only disarm. Until I switch the 100 and -100. It works as it should except the false part is the wrong way around I'm thinking maybe I should have just changed the true and false values.
My switch disarm is also switch away from me and arm is towards me.
That's why: because your switch is the opposite direction from mine.
Was thinking that. I did not expect a reply never mind a reply so fast you are an absolute legend I'm just new to this and you are helping me so much.
@@JoshuaBardwell Hey dude. Excellent vid... I'm new to the hobby (but a professional tinkerer). I just got an x9d plus, it appears as if the off position is when the switches are down for me (The remote complains when I turn it on if all the switches aren't down). I thought I was doing something wrong since I had to swap the up and down on my arm switch and swap the positive and negative values, but from the original comment it appears as if I'm not the only one. Might want to make a mention of that in the description to help the noobs like me.
Love this tip. Really smart and safe.
Awesome! I'm going to use it! 😃
Thanks a lot, JB!
would you mind sharing (and maybe this is a whole other video) what your other switches do? I always like to see how others do things in case there is a more efficient or logical way of setting things up.
The only other switch I have set up for quadcopters is a three-position with buzzer and blackbox on two positions.
cool, I have disarm/arm/blackbox-arm on a 3 position switch and beeper on the 2 position switch. I used to have arm on the 2 position like you though and have been thinking of going back to that cause maybe it's better to just worry about on/off for arming and make any extras on a different switch. funny how we have all these switches and really use a few of them. :)
This video is recommended in the Holybro Kopis 2 manual. Because it uses the DJI HD system, and thus the DJI controller, OpenTX hasn't been implemented by DJI. Is there a method to have 2-step arming with the DJI controller. I'm thinking no, but I'm wrong more ofter than right lately.
The way to do that would be to use the Betaflight Prearm mode. But it'll take up a whole extra aux channel.
Thanks for this nice video! I'm setting up a standard 4-channel model plane with your arming system so that I can copy this for all future models. I am a new Taranis user. Just as you demonstrated, I've got the Logical Switches working perfectly! I'm having trouble linking it to my Mixer values, same as yours. They don't seem to have any effect. From your narration...How do I know that Ch5 or Aux1 are my arming channels? (Fairly new radio, same as yours. Taranis X9+, OpenTx) Thanks in advance! Garland
+Safety48 the mixer lines need to be set up with a source of the input lines. Or you can just take the stick outputs as a source to the mixer directly. For a simple build with no expo or custom curves the latter is fine.
Hey joshua.. i was wondering if you can tell me how to do this but instead of using the stucky switch i want to use one of the 3 pos. Switches on the right side of taranis and the 2 pos. Switch on the left side (i think it SE or SD).. i cant figure out how to use 2 switcjes to arm.. thanks
If you are not using a momentary switch then you don't need to use a sticky switch at all. Just set up a Logical Switch that is TRUE when SF=UP and SH=DOWN or whatever logic you prefer.
Maybe it has to do with L1 where I have the direction for SF reversed. I like the switch forward for armed as it is easier to reach from the sticks.
Switch forward for armed and away for disarmed is how a lot of pilots do it. The old standard was that switches away was the default/neutral position and switches towards is active. So you could prep your transmitter by pushing all switches away. To do this, you would just invert the mixer logic. Or change the Arm Mode so "high" channel is armed and "low" is disarmed.
Thanks for the reply even though I do not completely understand. You move a little fast for me so I have to review what your doing several times. I am just glad it works and thanks for all the amazing help you've given me.
I upgraded my transmitter to 2.2 per your video and the safe arming no longer works. Any ideas?
Sorry, Adding... A little tweak. I play a warning message when the first switch is toggled in case it is unknowingly hit and also those near me know when I'm arming.
Thanks, I was wondering if you could do this. I had the same incident as you where I had the taranis on a neck stap and I hit the arm switch and the prop slit half my finger open
I got really lucky to not be injured. Multiple layers of safety paid off, but you should really never go past the first one ideally.
Just set this all up but i have one problem, when i first flick the arm switch, before i flick the momentary switch, the motors spin up for a quick second then back off. How can i fix this?
Hi Joshua, nice programming but how's about accidentally disarming the motors in midair? Any suggestion? Maybe also with SH switch or that disarming is only possible while throttle is at lowest position?
My answer to accidental disarming:
th-cam.com/video/bTalnzcO0xk/w-d-xo.html
When I want to disarm, I want to disarm right f'ing now. If you feel different, a solution where you only disarm when the throttle is down could work well. Bear in mind that Cleanflight has an option to only allow disarm when the throttle is at zero, so no Taranis wizardry is required, although it would also be easy to do in Taranis.