Pre-Load | Rear Steer | Scaling Your Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2020
- When to Pre-Load on rear and/or Rear Steer and tips on how we scale drag cars!
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Preload on the 4 link bars is certainly a solid method for adjusting the weight bias from side to side. At times though, you may need to utilize other methods to help drive a drag car straight, which is where Rear Steer comes in, especially without wheelie bars. Also, in this video I cover how we scale drag cars at the shop. How much pre-load? What is rear steer? When to use either or both?
Samson Performance of Sam's Alignment in North Charleston, SC.
samsonperformance.com - This site has our email and shop info
More to come on ladder bars, frontend double adjustable shocks, frontend rise, frontend alignment, and of course, the updates on the Blown 48 Ford Coupe at the track.
Drag Racing Suspension and Instant Center Calculator:
www.baselinesuspensions.com/i...
How to setup double adjustable shocks and springs for drag racing. How to tune rear shocks for drag racing also known as tuning coilovers for drag racing. Drag car alignment is critical as you know for your safety and the safety of the other driver.
Samson Performance of Sam's Alignment in North Charleston, SC.
samsonperformance.com - This site has our email and shop info along with remote services you can purchase.
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Amsoil Products for all your high performance needs:
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#suspension #dragracing #Coilovers #chevy #horsepower #qa1 #kevinwilsonsbc #dragcar #shocks #howto #streetracer #streetrace #instantcenter #caralignment - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you so much for these videos! I have been asking these questions for years and nobody could help.
Victor Dahn thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great video. Your simple drawings I feel help a lot of people.
Drag rear suspension is something I feel you can’t stop learning about. Hearing all opinions to develop your own is key along with testing
Thankyou for your support
Nathan Kahler thanks so much for your comments! I absolutely agree with you! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
GREAT GREAT GREAT !!! My scales should be here Monday... Testing next Wed... Will keep you posted.. Thank you for this information
tqservices2000 thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Thanks for your time, new four link driver... no problems yet but doing the homework
supercharged6771 thanks so much for your comments! You will enjoy the four link! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great video, a lot of information that most people won't share, very helpful information for the do it yourself kind of guy, thank you 👍
Edsel Valles thanks so much for your comments! Glad it is helping! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Nice job Kevin. Hadn't thought about rear steer. Nice tip about the second set of blocks for the scales
Scott Nettell thanks so much for your comments! I will show the blocks we built more soon, nothing fancy, but they work for us. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Thanks Kevin, another great video.
Ryan Humfrey thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great explanation, wish I lived closer I need help with an Fbody torque arm setup.
Thanks for sharing learned lots. A video showing how you measure on a real car and square everything up would be awesome.
Fred G thanks so much for your comments! I will be doing a complete video on my own 48 Ford for all this to share and I agree it would help tie it all together to have real world and chalkboard. Right now we have the front upper and lower control arms on order so we are stuck until we have those, but hopefully not much longer. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Kevin, your videos are awesome. Thank you so much!
What I’m looking for specifically is I just put four new QA1 double adjustable coilovers on the car.
It’s obvious that for both the front and back I would adjust both the left and right to get the ride height equal.
But what then? I’ve double checked the 39.1% (you recommended 40%) spring on the front and I’m A perfect 27% on the rear.
I’m running a ladder bar big tire set up.
Am I over thinking it?
I was thinking the coilover height needed some preload or something.
Mikeyhunts thanks so much for your comments! The coil springs are mainly supporting the weight of the rear and you can use them to level the rear cross member. On a ladder bar car it is not as simple as adding preload like a 4 link bar on the top passenger side. You really need to scale the car with 4 corner scales if you have issues with the car going left or right. I have used the top adjuster on ladder bars to shift some weight around, but mainly that adjuster is used to help set the pinion working angle. Once you get the ride height set on the rear with coil springs with a ladder bar car, you just want to ensure the rear end is square and centered. Wheelie bars will influence if the car goes left or right on the hit if they are on the track. Mainly we I am talking pre-load with 4 link, I am talking about using the top left rear bar to either add or lessen weight on one side or the other. Like I said, you can do that some with a ladder bar, but not as effective as 4 link. Hope this helps. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
so, I put my 3 flats in on the RR and still going right.. I could simply take a couple flats in on the lower RR bar which adds rear steer and unloads the 4link from my previous adjustment... Now I need to move the center of the rear end to the right via what ever means I am using... yes?
randalljames thanks so much for your comments! You can add some rear steer by moving the right rear tire back some. Remember a little goes a long way. Then after adding rear steer, you may want to do a scale so you can confirm 4 corner weight. You can always shorten the upper right 4 link bar 1 - 2 flats which will move a tad more weight to the right rear. If you have wheelie bars, that is another tuning aid. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Am i correct for thinking you always make adjustments on the right rear? How would a fella be able to tell if somthings just bound up or it has rear steer in it.
What is a flat? Is that 1 turn in the bar?
a lot of fast heads up cars dont run equal wheelbase. a couple inches of stagger in the front wheels increases rollout in the staging beams to stop redlights.
Can you talk about f-body type suspensions with torque arm setups?? As far as instant centers...
Dale Salazar thanks so much for your comments! I have that on my list for sure. I will move it up the priority list as you along with others are asking. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Manyour videos explain this for guys like me that dont understand big words lol, im having a slight issue with the 4 link we just installed (im no chassis builder) but we followed the instructions to a T and after I square it up and set the pinion angle,I put the top passenger bar in and its neutral. But when you step back and look at the truck its down on the RR,so I put some preload (21 1/2-2 flats) in the top right bar and it picks it up perfect. Truck has slight pull to left but were trying some adj to correct it (its raining here) but why would it sag on the RR like this? Thanks so much
Ment 1 1/2-2 flats
C McGill thanks so much for your info and question! When you say the RR is down, just to confirm, you are saying the RR chassis is closer to the ground then the left rear at the same point, but opposite side? Shoot me an email at samsalignmentsc@gmail.com and some pics and we will can into more detail outside of TH-cam. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great video , but my car is a ladder bar suspension any chance on a video ?
These are my videos on ladder bars:
th-cam.com/video/mmjieeSov4Q/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/HF9cvi4I_OU/w-d-xo.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Can you manipulate how straight the car leaves with shock settings? I have an f-body with a torque arm and preload isnt currently an option, not even on an anti roll bar yet
Chris Lynn thanks so much for your question! Definitely a rear ARB is your friend and I highly recommend it. You can stagger shock settings to do some minor corrections or load the springs differently from side to side to load one tire more. There are just so many variables involved with each setup I don't feel comfortable going too deep on this one without more facts on your setup. It is all about the right combination and balance of all the suspension components working together so be careful with staggering to many things at once as the launch is just 1 part of the job of the suspension components. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thankyou, I will play with shocks a little then I may try a small rear steer adjustment and see how it reacts. Spring loading probably isnt an option unfortunately
When talking about side to side wheel base changes in 1/8 to 3/16" of an inch, I'm curious what you're using to measure to that precision. Obviously not a buddy with a tape measure eyeballing the center of the axle...
Corey Binkiewicz thanks so much for your comments! Absolutely not eyeballing that part. Wheels off the car and a plumb bob off the axle flange measuring to the rear cross member. You bring up a good point, and I should do a video on ensuring your chassis is square and how to do that with the simple string method. More to come on that part. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
You can simply measure the length of the lower 4 link bars (eye to eye). For adding rear steer, SHORTEN the lower right bar X amount, then neutral the top bar. If it's still going a little left, add negative pre-load (lengthen the top right bar 1 flat) & see what it does. If it's still going left, rinse & repeat. If it's still going left, add another 1/8" rear steer, etc.
Hang about... car is going left, or rear is driving left [causing the car to turn right]?
Not sure I am following the question. Sorry. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!