Привет Paul, я твой зритель из России, хочу сказать спасибо тебе за контент, у тебя очень подробные и доступные видео, особенно часто пользуюсь роликами про RAV 4 96. У меня RAV 4 95, даже не владея английским языком я прекрасно понимаю тебя, так как ты очень подробно всё делаешь. Спасибо огромное, жду новые видео, мне очень интересно 🤝
Paul, you legend, thank you for the great video. Love the way you explain the work done analytically, I guess the lab-coat helps! 😄 Unfortunately I've already installed lift springs on my mk2 RAV4, but that doesn't make the video any less useful! There should be a special place in paradise for people who take the time to share part numbers!
Hey man! I love your videos! They are so helpful and informative! Keep them coming! I binge watched your whole rav4 series and plan on getting one as my first car. I'm just looking around for the perfect deal.
Thanks so much for watching them all! The RAV4 can be a good car, but I'll share a few of my opinions on it: 1. It's a beater car. It's 25 years old. Most of them have over 220,000 miles. Even with low mileage or "it's in good condition", every fluid will leak from every seal because it's 25 years old. 2. It's not very safe. The IIHS rates the first gen RAV4 "Marginal" in the moderate overlap test where the front of the car into a concrete barrier at 40mph. That crash will crush your leg and your head will bounce off the B-pillar. The airbag might shoot metal shrapnel in your face if it's one of the defective Takata ones. Back in the 90's, cars didn't even have side impact testing. If you get T-boned by a truck in the RAV4 you're fucked. Crashing is a bad idea in most cars made before 2010. 3. Find a good RAV4. Avoid anything rusty. The rear suspension rusts the most on these cars because it doesn't have oil leaks protecting it. Take a close look at the rear camber and toe adjusters. Go down there with a wrench and try to turn one. If they're seized, you're in for a bad time. That's what happened on this RAV4: th-cam.com/video/brNSkw6d42s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RxshjjyGcPteKk9x&t=1194 4. A 4 door first generation RAV4 in good condition is worth about $3,500 here in Utah. Paying more than that is kinda dumb, even if its "really clean" it's still a 25 year old car. 5. Don't try to restore it. It's great to fix things the car needs, but if you start nitpicking at little problems, you'll find 1,000 of them. It will become an endless pit for time and money into a car that isn't worth much. A nice 2-door RAV4 can be worth $10,000, but the 4 doors are always cheap. 6. The gas mileage is bad. Mine gets 19mpg with the Old Man Emu 1.5" lift and LT225/75R16 Bf Goodrich All terrain tires. With normal tires, these cars will do 22mpg. Some liars say they get 30. They're probably going downhill. 7. Oh, and I forgot the GOOD things: lots of repair videos parts are cheap junkyard has lots of parts reliable the car is cheap Lots of cargo room in the 4 door
@@LabCoatPaul Yeah, i really enjoyed the insight into working on an older car and particularly one worth getting. Thanks for taking the time to share your opinion. The safety is a bit of a concern. But anyway i go about it, i'll end up buying a 20+ year old beater because that is my budget. The 2nd gen rav4 is more enticing in that sense as they aren't much more expensive but are safer. I won't be doing a ton of driving though, so if a find a good deal I'm not going to hesitate either way. It will mostly be for running errands and weekend activities. Gas mileage isn't what i expected but i wont be driving too much. My other beater option is a carolla, but i want/need 4wd. Doesn't snow much here every year, but often enough.
heck yeah you're back vice grips also work wonders for sway bar links when the allen key inevitably round out if you don't have a saw You can also get spring compressors that bolt onto the springs with u bolts, seems like a good inbetween of safety and cost, it cost me roughly 90 dollars
The service manual for my 05' states the 3 top nuts for the front strut is 59lbs, sways bars front and back 32lbs, and the bolts to the knuckle 105lbs. Are you also getting your torque values from the service manual? I'm curious because I snapped one of the studs on the strut at 59lbs. It was the last nut to torque down... Wondering where you're getting the torque values from
The service manual torque specs are mostly nonsense. I referenced the manual and compared it to generic torque specs, then made up my own recommendations based on how the bolts felt while tightening. For example: M6 bolts: 6-10 ft-lb M8 bolts: 35-41 ft-lb M10 bolts: 70-80 ft-lb The torque specs found in the service manual are not what the factory uses to assemble cars. Instead, a technical writer puts the book together, apparently while being very drunk.
Great videos, especially the first generation RAV4 repair videos. I am going to try to fix my oil pump and seal leak and timing belt using your videos on my 4-door 5-speed manual 1998 RAV4. It has 225k miles on it but it's my daily driver and it's fun to drive but because the oil keeps coming out, I have to put in a quart of oil every 1000 miles. That's a lot of oil that's leaking out and it's all over the bottom of the car! One question, what size air compressor do you use for your air tools? I noticed you didn't use an air impact wrench anymore and used all electric. Also, I see that you installed a roof rack on your first generation. Where is the video for that set up, lol. Thanks for all the help.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos, thanks! I don't use air tools any more, because the Milwaukee electric tools are more convenient, more powerful, and quieter than pneumatic. I only use my compressor for the blow gun for cleaning, inflating tires, and the air hammer / chisel. I have the ridgid 4.5 gallon compressor. It's faster and quieter than most compressors on the market: www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-5-Gal-Portable-Electric-Quiet-Air-Compressor-OF45200SS/300779816 I will have a video about the roof rack soon. It's custom made by Budget Build Bureau. He has a youtube channel too.
when we needed him most he returned. welcome back king. greetings from australia
Thanks! I'll have more car repair videos soon.
Привет Paul, я твой зритель из России, хочу сказать спасибо тебе за контент, у тебя очень подробные и доступные видео, особенно часто пользуюсь роликами про RAV 4 96. У меня RAV 4 95, даже не владея английским языком я прекрасно понимаю тебя, так как ты очень подробно всё делаешь. Спасибо огромное, жду новые видео, мне очень интересно 🤝
whoooaaa new raw4 video!!🎉🎉🎉
Glad you back bro
Thanks!
Glad to see you're back! Wish you did a before & after.
Paul, you legend, thank you for the great video. Love the way you explain the work done analytically, I guess the lab-coat helps! 😄
Unfortunately I've already installed lift springs on my mk2 RAV4, but that doesn't make the video any less useful!
There should be a special place in paradise for people who take the time to share part numbers!
Great DIY guide!
Hey man! I love your videos! They are so helpful and informative! Keep them coming! I binge watched your whole rav4 series and plan on getting one as my first car. I'm just looking around for the perfect deal.
Thanks so much for watching them all! The RAV4 can be a good car, but I'll share a few of my opinions on it:
1. It's a beater car. It's 25 years old. Most of them have over 220,000 miles. Even with low mileage or "it's in good condition", every fluid will leak from every seal because it's 25 years old.
2. It's not very safe. The IIHS rates the first gen RAV4 "Marginal" in the moderate overlap test where the front of the car into a concrete barrier at 40mph. That crash will crush your leg and your head will bounce off the B-pillar. The airbag might shoot metal shrapnel in your face if it's one of the defective Takata ones. Back in the 90's, cars didn't even have side impact testing. If you get T-boned by a truck in the RAV4 you're fucked. Crashing is a bad idea in most cars made before 2010.
3. Find a good RAV4. Avoid anything rusty. The rear suspension rusts the most on these cars because it doesn't have oil leaks protecting it. Take a close look at the rear camber and toe adjusters. Go down there with a wrench and try to turn one. If they're seized, you're in for a bad time. That's what happened on this RAV4: th-cam.com/video/brNSkw6d42s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RxshjjyGcPteKk9x&t=1194
4. A 4 door first generation RAV4 in good condition is worth about $3,500 here in Utah. Paying more than that is kinda dumb, even if its "really clean" it's still a 25 year old car.
5. Don't try to restore it. It's great to fix things the car needs, but if you start nitpicking at little problems, you'll find 1,000 of them. It will become an endless pit for time and money into a car that isn't worth much. A nice 2-door RAV4 can be worth $10,000, but the 4 doors are always cheap.
6. The gas mileage is bad. Mine gets 19mpg with the Old Man Emu 1.5" lift and LT225/75R16 Bf Goodrich All terrain tires. With normal tires, these cars will do 22mpg. Some liars say they get 30. They're probably going downhill.
7. Oh, and I forgot the GOOD things:
lots of repair videos
parts are cheap
junkyard has lots of parts
reliable
the car is cheap
Lots of cargo room in the 4 door
@@LabCoatPaul Yeah, i really enjoyed the insight into working on an older car and particularly one worth getting. Thanks for taking the time to share your opinion. The safety is a bit of a concern. But anyway i go about it, i'll end up buying a 20+ year old beater because that is my budget. The 2nd gen rav4 is more enticing in that sense as they aren't much more expensive but are safer. I won't be doing a ton of driving though, so if a find a good deal I'm not going to hesitate either way. It will mostly be for running errands and weekend activities. Gas mileage isn't what i expected but i wont be driving too much. My other beater option is a carolla, but i want/need 4wd. Doesn't snow much here every year, but often enough.
we are so back
heck yeah you're back
vice grips also work wonders for sway bar links when the allen key inevitably round out if you don't have a saw
You can also get spring compressors that bolt onto the springs with u bolts, seems like a good inbetween of safety and cost, it cost me roughly 90 dollars
I'll have to check out the U bolt compressors. Those do sound a bit better. If I could only have ONE tool, it would be vise grips.
Glad to see you with another Rav4 video! Can you do an "After the OME lift" video? How different are the "before" and "after" measurements?
I have a 2000 RAV4 I want to show you Paul!
that how many times you change white work wear show how clean this cars are
The service manual for my 05' states the 3 top nuts for the front strut is 59lbs, sways bars front and back 32lbs, and the bolts to the knuckle 105lbs.
Are you also getting your torque values from the service manual? I'm curious because I snapped one of the studs on the strut at 59lbs. It was the last nut to torque down... Wondering where you're getting the torque values from
The service manual torque specs are mostly nonsense. I referenced the manual and compared it to generic torque specs, then made up my own recommendations based on how the bolts felt while tightening.
For example:
M6 bolts: 6-10 ft-lb
M8 bolts: 35-41 ft-lb
M10 bolts: 70-80 ft-lb
The torque specs found in the service manual are not what the factory uses to assemble cars. Instead, a technical writer puts the book together, apparently while being very drunk.
Great videos, especially the first generation RAV4 repair videos. I am going to try to fix my oil pump and seal leak and timing belt using your videos on my 4-door 5-speed manual 1998 RAV4. It has 225k miles on it but it's my daily driver and it's fun to drive but because the oil keeps coming out, I have to put in a quart of oil every 1000 miles. That's a lot of oil that's leaking out and it's all over the bottom of the car! One question, what size air compressor do you use for your air tools? I noticed you didn't use an air impact wrench anymore and used all electric. Also, I see that you installed a roof rack on your first generation. Where is the video for that set up, lol. Thanks for all the help.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos, thanks! I don't use air tools any more, because the Milwaukee electric tools are more convenient, more powerful, and quieter than pneumatic.
I only use my compressor for the blow gun for cleaning, inflating tires, and the air hammer / chisel. I have the ridgid 4.5 gallon compressor. It's faster and quieter than most compressors on the market: www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-5-Gal-Portable-Electric-Quiet-Air-Compressor-OF45200SS/300779816
I will have a video about the roof rack soon. It's custom made by Budget Build Bureau. He has a youtube channel too.
I love your videos 😊 You can get a free holiday in Norway if you help me with my cars 😅 I got four first gen. Rav4s 😮
You have a RAV16. Also, thanks! A holiday sounds fun.
😁😍😊
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇮🇩
where were you bro?
I get busy with work and I hate editing videos, so I don't get much done in the summer. Sorry about that.
Я поставил проставки 2мм между кузовом и верхней опорой амортизатора
Hey! Question about stabilizer bar, can I use the original or do we need to buy a new one more small or mor bigger? like the suspension is more tall!
The stock stabilizer bar is just fine.
I don’t know prices in the US, but doesn’t so much money buy you another 2005 RAV4?
I have a 2000 rav4 would the suspension work on it?
Yes. The rear springs are slightly different for the 2 door model, but the kit is mostly the same.