I use to have to take those off all the time repairing mine equipment I would weld a nut on the top in the center and put an eye bolt on em raise em with crane and spin and heat em.
Been using this method on bearing races for at least 30 years. These are definitely "tricks" that need to be passed down to new generations of technicians. Thanks for showing this.
Exactly. When you're up against a shoulder on a shaft heat is the best option. Hard to get a grinder in there. Sometimes it just won't come off and you gotta cut it diagonally and split it with a chisel. This is not a new invention.
Love toyotas, im an old electrical tec. Starters alternators rebuilder warranty station for leece Neville in central washington. Had to pull many bearing races. I used a lathe, torch and screw driver. Come off like butter
I wouldn't consider him a genius because professional technicians have been using this method forever. There are some things we just don't make common knowledge to the general population.
@@Enter-a-name55 I mean..Im pretty sure anyone from “professional technicians” to said “general populations” would deduce that’s more of a compliment in say, excessive praise. People that would get it usually having more personality than that of a grapefruit. And those who have the grapefruit personality usually sound butthurt that they didn’t get the praise for thinking of it.
@@themetalfusionologist yeah the words have real meanings and heroes and some other ones are definitely being overused man the real heroes aren't even around anymore I can tell you because I left a few of them behind
Brilliant! Use to put shafts that were small enough in the freezer to shrink them and warm up the bearings or vice versa if the bearings were being inserted into a housing. Another cool trick we used was if a large shaft was frozen and galled, needed to be removed we’d use a welder to arc out on a consumable brake line and bore through with an air hose blowing air through the brake line as it was consumed all while cutting out the internal shaft without damaging the loader bucket
yes sir I also seen a lot of Fords AMC and Allis Chalmers John Deere but not at the dealership of course I remember in the Oldsmobile dealership that's anywhere from 120 to 200,000 miles that's pretty damn good vehicles don't do that today
Bearing race on an axle. Hit bearing race with big hammer several times and it will fall off. High tensile strength steel does not spring back like spring steel does. Still, I like the blow torch. If it is burned on as in high glowing red heat the blow torch might not work. Will need to be machined off.
I can only push the thumbs up button once. YT needs to fix that, these boys deserve a dump truck full of thumbs up for that sick trick. Maybe the best thing I’ve seen on YT today. Thanks for an actual incredible video
Find a old farmer with a couple of tanks and get em inspected just for your safety much cheaper and alot of times you can get a bunch of other tools from em just by showing interest and cleaning out space for em too
I've seen a lot of old timer tricks in my day but that by far is one of the most badass tricks I've seen. Hopefully this trick helps when I do the axel bearings on my brick nose F150... Only took 470k for one of them to start whining.
Although I'm 55 now an don't think I have that kind of coordination....that pretty slick!. Been wrenching over 35yrs an that's a new one to me...thanks.
This is one of the most intelligent things Ive ever seen. So simple and yet so effective combining properties from multiple disciplines into a single display. I think you missed your true calling sir. We would have already been driving electric and colonizing Mars if more people like you went into the sciences. Well done.
This is a cool trick although since you’re using a press to reinstall the bearing, you might as well use press to pull the bearing. What I worry about is losing or affecting the heat treatment of the axle
As a machinist and engineer that has dealt with heat treatment for years, this is absolutely not a concern in this application. You aren’t putting nearly enough heat into that axle shaft to even approach the point at which you need to be concerned about altering the heat treatment. I would be willing to bet that, at least in this case (the one that we just watched), that shaft didn’t get above 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Hardened steel needs to see about 600 degrees before it starts to lose its temper. This is obviously a generalization as the exact temperature is dependent on the type of steel and the mass of the part and a myriad of other factors, but for the average, run of the mill (pun intended) piece of steel, it would take a significant sized area achieving 600 degrees to a depth of at least .01”-ish before I would expect to see any sort of degradation in the parts temper or the performance that would be expected as a result of the heat treatment process.
Consider how much heat and shock the axle shaft takes on a regular basis. If they heat the race in oil, it should drop on without much trouble. A goldilocks piece of pipe and a hammer will easily seat the race without elaborate set up. Remember alot of the dealer service centers put them boys on a ridiculously tight time frame.
Guy I worked for had a small scrap business an he used to show me how to do different tricks ,and one time said you can hit a hardened pin next to the casing a couple of times with a chisel n itll fly right out when i was cleaning the steel out of a transmission n it worked . He used to work for the R&R so he had experience in that field of work fixing rails n cars.
Alternatively, one man job with the angle grinder. You don't need to grind through the race as a tap with the hammer cracks what's left. Faster, safer and more cost effective too.
@@andrewmicas4327 Me too. Escorts, Viva, Chevette, Victors, Zephyrs, Rovers to name a few. 👍 The gaffer wouldn't let me waste gas. But compressed for the air grinder was free! Lol
I've always wondered why someone hadn't figured out a way to differentially heat an interference part to disassemble it. It never crossed my mind to just heat the outer ring so fast that the inner part doesn't have a chance to heat up and expand. Well done.
Trick is to heat the outer raise very quickly to not allow the heat to transfer to the axle so that thermal expansion takes effect into the interferance fit and it becomes larger than the shaft, if you do it slow the axle will catch up and you might just make it less tight or never comes off because the shaft expandes when with it too
Yep, after turning the O-A torch Off, hit the axle shaft with unlit MAP gas torch gas … it super expands when pressure is released and COOLS down whatever it touches. C-R-A-C-K! Inner race snaps free of shaft. Disassemble B4 both parts achieve common temperatures again. You’re welcome
Heated the bearing so that it expanded(metal expands when heated) so that the bearing would fall off. It would be too tight to try and pull off any other way without damage.😊
To explain why this works is simple, yet brilliant. Heat makes metal expand. Rotating the column makes the heat distribution even so as to prevent overheated areas which may warp the structure. Honestly this is so cool.
Why would you heat up that axel like you are doing. Axles are heat treated. The bearing race is extremely hard and brittle. When you can simply use a cutoff wheel. Just scoring the bearings race. Take a ball peen hammer and chisel. A few hits on the chisel. Where you scored the bearing race. The bearing race will crack apart and fall off. Make sure you wear safety glasses and work gloves while doing this procedure.
Done fast enough like they did doesn't get enough heat to cause any problems. I have used that method many times in the past but usually just use press I have a large enough one set up is less than a minute and another minute to press then flip it press new on and done.
@@theodoreflageolle3617 I absolutely agree using a hydraulic press or an Arbor Press to remove a bearing race is the proper way. And the little amount of heat applied in this video.Most likely didn’t affect the temper of the Axel. But many people don’t realize that and would overheat the axel where a bearing race is normally pressed on. Axels are heat treated and some people would over heat the axel. Either softening or making it harder and brittle. I think this video is a poor representation of what someone should do to remove a Bearing Race. A cutoff wheel, Hammer and Chisel is something I think most people would have. That work on their vehicles.
That axle would get hotter in the diff going down the road that’s a really clean way to do the job I’m going to try that with the axle seals on my disco
I used to love doing this with differential races. Also on a piece of rail equipment I ran that had a set of rolling rail lifts. The inner race was shrunk onto the shaft. We'd get it glowing red then smack it with a chisel and hammer and watch it fly off into the air.
I had the rose bud out yesterday. I had an NPT drain plug in the rear axle of a tractor that 450-foot lbs couldn't loosen. Who would tighten it that much !!? That plug is in a thousand lbs of thick cast but I heated up just around it, gave the plug a couple of good whacks with a 5 lb persuader, applied 200 ft lbs and when I gave it another hammer blow while torque applied it moved. Amazingly, nothing damaged. Farm boy success this time. The tractor is a 70HP 1976 IH Hydro 70 that is what I use to blow snow off my driveway, so it is imperative that I get the hydrostatic transmission serviced. Common oil for transmission, hydraulics, and rear axle. So, the oxy-acetyline torch is a farm necessity.
Nice trick. Not going to lie. I've just got races off with a torch but I'm pretty good with the torch. I can even cut a piece of exhaust pipe out of another piece of exhaust pipe without hurting the exterior pipe. Kind of proud of that
I’ve had to use the gentle heat method in a LOT of items. When I don’t want to use the big torch, I set a lit propane torch in a cradle, and let it heat whatever needs it for a period of time that would tire my arms out. Come back, and usually find the bolt or nut ready to go without ruining the temper.
That was bad ass! Another trick if you don't have a torch that gets hot enough, cut a groove in it as close to the axle as possible on the race and take a wedge air hammer in the cut and it will break and fracture and come off..
Outstanding.. i would have put it in a lathe and heated it up, but i would have still needed to knock it off with. lead mallet. This is genius at work.
The time I had to do this I just rested the axle on a pipe with the torch clamped to a cinder block. Rotated the axle while heating it till the race spun when poked, tilted the axle upright and tapped the race off. Y doesn’t fall right off but at least I’m not worried about dropping an axle while it’s spinning on a stainless steel ball.
We used to cut the Ford 9 inches off with a torch , but they weren't flat against the axle flange , its easier if it's backed off , where you can hit either side , never cut the axle , how you get that ball bearing back out ? Drill and dent puller ?
I learned this from a guy from Honduras those people are big-time Toyota lovers a lot of T100 tundras have come in with broken differentials trying to do man's work in the econo truck It will be either the gears or the bearings but we change out everything
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[2/2] ประสบการณ์ขนหัวลุกจากตำนานวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T_kFecQw7Ds/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been an automotive technician for more than 35 years and still learn something new every day. Great video!
Neat trick
They don't teach you this because, it's a good way to warp the crap out of that shaft for no reason.
If you do it right, you will not heat the shaft enough to warp it.
Did you pass the third grade? Because that's when they teach you about heat expanding and cold contracting...
Wow, what childlike behavior. You can disagree with someone without insulting them. But have a great day!
That was freaking slick!
🤣🤣🤣 I was thinking something similar, but it wasn't "freaking"... LMFAO
Stole the words out of my mouth.
I use to have to take those off all the time repairing mine equipment I would weld a nut on the top in the center and put an eye bolt on em raise em with crane and spin and heat em.
Took the words outta my mouth.
😊😊😊😊😊
Been using this method on bearing races for at least 30 years. These are definitely "tricks" that need to be passed down to new generations of technicians. Thanks for showing this.
I bet u have
Right lol 😂
I've been a mechanic since 1985, so yeah. That's the easiest way to remove a lot of races. This is not a new found method by any means.
Exactly. When you're up against a shoulder on a shaft heat is the best option. Hard to get a grinder in there. Sometimes it just won't come off and you gotta cut it diagonally and split it with a chisel. This is not a new invention.
@@griffinphilemon5083is there a market for a tool to remove the race?
As a Toyota tech, I thank you
Huge pain in the ass repair. Masters only in my eyes.
Dude rear bearings on the tundras and sequoias can be frustrating
How’d you get the bearing out
Love toyotas, im an old electrical tec. Starters alternators rebuilder warranty station for leece Neville in central washington. Had to pull many bearing races. I used a lathe, torch and screw driver. Come off like butter
Just cut the bearing with a grinder and it comes right off
Man, “if a day goes by when you don’t learn something…it was a wasted day”. 👍👍👍
I love it. 40yrs of wrenching and I love people's thinking on your feet and getting it done. Great job guys.
Not all heroes wear capes…
You sir, are a genius
I wouldn't consider him a genius because professional technicians have been using this method forever. There are some things we just don't make common knowledge to the general population.
@@Enter-a-name55 I mean..Im pretty sure anyone from “professional technicians” to said “general populations” would deduce that’s more of a compliment in say, excessive praise. People that would get it usually having more personality than that of a grapefruit.
And those who have the grapefruit personality usually sound butthurt that they didn’t get the praise for thinking of it.
@@themetalfusionologist yeah the words have real meanings and heroes and some other ones are definitely being overused man the real heroes aren't even around anymore I can tell you because I left a few of them behind
Works on hubs too if you find a bearing big enough (the one in the snap-on ball joint press usually works the best)
You sir deserve a raise.
Brilliant! Use to put shafts that were small enough in the freezer to shrink them and warm up the bearings or vice versa if the bearings were being inserted into a housing. Another cool trick we used was if a large shaft was frozen and galled, needed to be removed we’d use a welder to arc out on a consumable brake line and bore through with an air hose blowing air through the brake line as it was consumed all while cutting out the internal shaft without damaging the loader bucket
so like an oxygen lance?
I'm sorry I'd need to see the film of that as I can't picture what ur sayin
This applies to Pontiac and Oldsmobile style non-C clip style 10 bolts and 12 bolts.
yes sir I also seen a lot of Fords AMC and Allis Chalmers John Deere but not at the dealership of course I remember in the Oldsmobile dealership that's anywhere from 120 to 200,000 miles that's pretty damn good vehicles don't do that today
Well if I ever have a race stuck to an axle shaft I will most definitely be trying this first
Amazing what no lubricant does to metal parts. Sorta like Damascus syeel.
Well, they're not stuck, they're press fit. Things like this aren't meant to be disassembled with simple hand tools.
Bearing race on an axle.
Hit bearing race with big hammer several times and it will fall off. High tensile strength steel does not spring back like spring steel does. Still, I like the blow torch. If it is burned on as in high glowing red heat the blow torch might not work. Will need to be machined off.
@@TrashPanda5150 I was hoping someone would say that.👍
If it not a press fit, you need a new axel
I can only push the thumbs up button once. YT needs to fix that, these boys deserve a dump truck full of thumbs up for that sick trick. Maybe the best thing I’ve seen on YT today. Thanks for an actual incredible video
Same, I have 2 thumbs, shouldn't I be able to give 2 thumbs up?
Just another reason I need to just bite the bullet and get a cutting torch.
They are life changing, both as a mechanic and on your wallet. But I highly recommend you just buy a good one right away, you'll thank yourself later
Find a old farmer with a couple of tanks and get em inspected just for your safety much cheaper and alot of times you can get a bunch of other tools from em just by showing interest and cleaning out space for em too
You can also get a torch just for heating.
@@notsevenfeettall Exactly. . They torched this all the way through, but one tap and it would've been off way sooner.
Oxy propane is a cheap alternative if you are only cutting and heating and not welding with it.
Like $500 for it all. And propane is cheap.
I've seen a lot of old timer tricks in my day but that by far is one of the most badass tricks I've seen. Hopefully this trick helps when I do the axel bearings on my brick nose F150... Only took 470k for one of them to start whining.
That's a pretty sweet piece of knowledge.
Maybe the coolest mechanic trick I've seen all year. Very cool thanks
I usually put a cut thru it and then air hammer it of lightly
I normally don't learn anything from these videos until now. That was awesome
Buenos trucos nos ayudas mucho en simplificar el trabajo, sobre todo cuando hay que reaprovechar alguna parte del conjunto de piezas
So, I have been a mechanic for 15 years and this is in my top 5 coolest hacks I have ever seen. VERY SLICK!
Fantastic idea! I might try this on the next bearing I can't get off
Although I'm 55 now an don't think I have that kind of coordination....that pretty slick!. Been wrenching over 35yrs an that's a new one to me...thanks.
Wow I’ve never seen it done that way . Great idea with the ball bearing
This is one of the most intelligent things Ive ever seen. So simple and yet so effective combining properties from multiple disciplines into a single display. I think you missed your true calling sir. We would have already been driving electric and colonizing Mars if more people like you went into the sciences. Well done.
This is a cool trick although since you’re using a press to reinstall the bearing, you might as well use press to pull the bearing. What I worry about is losing or affecting the heat treatment of the axle
As a machinist and engineer that has dealt with heat treatment for years, this is absolutely not a concern in this application. You aren’t putting nearly enough heat into that axle shaft to even approach the point at which you need to be concerned about altering the heat treatment. I would be willing to bet that, at least in this case (the one that we just watched), that shaft didn’t get above 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Hardened steel needs to see about 600 degrees before it starts to lose its temper. This is obviously a generalization as the exact temperature is dependent on the type of steel and the mass of the part and a myriad of other factors, but for the average, run of the mill (pun intended) piece of steel, it would take a significant sized area achieving 600 degrees to a depth of at least .01”-ish before I would expect to see any sort of degradation in the parts temper or the performance that would be expected as a result of the heat treatment process.
Consider how much heat and shock the axle shaft takes on a regular basis. If they heat the race in oil, it should drop on without much trouble. A goldilocks piece of pipe and a hammer will easily seat the race without elaborate set up. Remember alot of the dealer service centers put them boys on a ridiculously tight time frame.
Good luck removing that race on a press
@@krisholden5365 you said that much better than I was going to say it.👍
Exactly what I was thinking.but if you don’t have a press?? Then it’s a decent alternative.. but not my first choice for sure..👍✌️
Guy I worked for had a small scrap business an he used to show me how to do different tricks ,and one time said you can hit a hardened pin next to the casing a couple of times with a chisel n itll fly right out when i was cleaning the steel out of a transmission n it worked . He used to work for the R&R so he had experience in that field of work fixing rails n cars.
That's the most anxiety inducing/satisfying thing I've ever seen
I love that you perfected this task and shows us how it's done!
Great spin drop technique man good to see a man working with his hands and his mind
You, sir, are a genius
Just tried this at the dealership I work for , worked great thank you for sharing !
Alternatively, one man job with the angle grinder. You don't need to grind through the race as a tap with the hammer cracks what's left. Faster, safer and more cost effective too.
That how always got them off 40 years ago all Uk rear wheel drive half shafts.
@@andrewmicas4327 Me too. Escorts, Viva, Chevette, Victors, Zephyrs, Rovers to name a few. 👍
The gaffer wouldn't let me waste gas. But compressed for the air grinder was free! Lol
Yep👍
Been a mechanic for 25 years. So used to cutting off. I'll have to try this. Pretty cool.
If you run an inch of mig on the race it permanently gets a larger Id and just falls off
That doesn't make sense... the weld will pull on the material when it cools
@@tragikk03 It worked, it does not have to "make sense".
@@tragikk03 it pulls when it cools. It won't cool fast enough to shrink on the shaft.
@@tragikk03 your right I was trying to get out an inside race that was in the neck of a motorcycle
@@chuckcts-v3460 you're assuming it actually worked because someone on youtube said it did? lol no wonder yall thought covid was gonna kill everyone
This would have helped me out on my Nissan titan 😩
been there, ended up just buying a new rear end for a nissan frontier off road, next to impossible to find parts for.
I've always wondered why someone hadn't figured out a way to differentially heat an interference part to disassemble it. It never crossed my mind to just heat the outer ring so fast that the inner part doesn't have a chance to heat up and expand.
Well done.
Trick is to heat the outer raise very quickly to not allow the heat to transfer to the axle so that thermal expansion takes effect into the interferance fit and it becomes larger than the shaft, if you do it slow the axle will catch up and you might just make it less tight or never comes off because the shaft expandes when with it too
Yep, after turning the O-A torch Off, hit the axle shaft with unlit MAP gas torch gas … it super expands when pressure is released and COOLS down whatever it touches.
C-R-A-C-K!
Inner race snaps free of shaft.
Disassemble B4 both parts achieve common temperatures again.
You’re welcome
Nice, my problem is by the time I have a bearing to change I've gone and forgot about your mechanic tip...great idea fellas...👍
Idk what you did but good job doing it
Heated the bearing so that it expanded(metal expands when heated) so that the bearing would fall off. It would be too tight to try and pull off any other way without damage.😊
Great tip. I use an induction heater on shafts, rarely have to pound/press bearings on or off.
If you've got two people than this is a great way to do it.
You could use a drill press with a center chucked in. Just need something to hold it while it spins.
To explain why this works is simple, yet brilliant. Heat makes metal expand. Rotating the column makes the heat distribution even so as to prevent overheated areas which may warp the structure. Honestly this is so cool.
Why would you heat up that axel like you are doing. Axles are heat treated. The bearing race is extremely hard and brittle. When you can simply use a cutoff wheel. Just scoring the bearings race. Take a ball peen hammer and chisel. A few hits on the chisel. Where you scored the bearing race. The bearing race will crack apart and fall off. Make sure you wear safety glasses and work gloves while doing this procedure.
Exactly. Wrap a rag over race during the smash.
Done fast enough like they did doesn't get enough heat to cause any problems. I have used that method many times in the past but usually just use press I have a large enough one set up is less than a minute and another minute to press then flip it press new on and done.
@@theodoreflageolle3617
I absolutely agree using a hydraulic press or an Arbor Press to remove a bearing race is the proper way. And the little amount of heat applied in this video.Most likely didn’t affect the temper of the Axel. But many people don’t realize that and would overheat the axel where a bearing race is normally pressed on. Axels are heat treated and some people would over heat the axel. Either softening or making it harder and brittle. I think this video is a poor representation of what someone should do to remove a Bearing Race. A cutoff wheel, Hammer and Chisel is something I think most people would have. That work on their vehicles.
That axle would get hotter in the diff going down the road that’s a really clean way to do the job I’m going to try that with the axle seals on my disco
@@gadgetg9479 Of the race gets hotter than that in operation what keeps the axle from walking out while driving?
I used to love doing this with differential races. Also on a piece of rail equipment I ran that had a set of rolling rail lifts. The inner race was shrunk onto the shaft. We'd get it glowing red then smack it with a chisel and hammer and watch it fly off into the air.
I just cut it & hit it with a chisel off in half the time & I don't have to let the axle cool before I press new bearings
Same here
In all my years at doing this!?! That is the neatest thing I ever SEEN! REAL SMART!!!!
Dude dude dude.. the single best trick I've ever seen!!
Too damn cool. I love watching skill sets like this. Absolutely amazing.
That was pretty cool one of the best tech tips I've seen special about the ball bearing
I had the rose bud out yesterday. I had an NPT drain plug in the rear axle of a tractor that 450-foot lbs couldn't loosen. Who would tighten it that much !!? That plug is in a thousand lbs of thick cast but I heated up just around it, gave the plug a couple of good whacks with a 5 lb persuader, applied 200 ft lbs and when I gave it another hammer blow while torque applied it moved. Amazingly, nothing damaged. Farm boy success this time. The tractor is a 70HP 1976 IH Hydro 70 that is what I use to blow snow off my driveway, so it is imperative that I get the hydrostatic transmission serviced. Common oil for transmission, hydraulics, and rear axle. So, the oxy-acetyline torch is a farm necessity.
Absolutely genius! Using it. Should work on my Ford 9inch.
What a cool fucking trick. I'm real glad you don't click bait us. You actually give us useful life skills like a father would. Good on ya.
This one's of the reasons i love TH-cam man 👌🏽💪🏽
Thank you for teaching us something new sir 🙂
been doing that for quite a bit BUT I do like the addition of that ball bearing on that application.
That will work for so many axle shafts. Especially my 9 inch Ford's! Thanks.
That was pretty slick. I'll have to give that one a try.
Faces was such an underrated mixtape, thanks for the memories 🎶😎
That’s pretty damn smart!
Nice trick. Not going to lie. I've just got races off with a torch but I'm pretty good with the torch. I can even cut a piece of exhaust pipe out of another piece of exhaust pipe without hurting the exterior pipe. Kind of proud of that
That's a backyard mechanic trick for sure.. that's what man was designed to do from the beginning of time.. hell yeah brother
Very cool! What step to apply new wheel bearing? Wait for shaft to cool or heat new bearing?
Great idea, I've never seen it done this way before. Thanks for the tip.
Simply Awesome brains over brawn! You can also do this for the 1969 GTO Rear Axles Bearing retainer as well.
👍Good stuff. Old axels make GREAT property boundary markers. Pound them in and they’ll never rot away! 🇺🇸
I’ve had to use the gentle heat method in a LOT of items.
When I don’t want to use the big torch, I set a lit propane torch in a cradle, and let it heat whatever needs it for a period of time that would tire my arms out.
Come back, and usually find the bolt or nut ready to go without ruining the temper.
👏👏BRAVO👏👏 and our parents told us we would "never learn anything on TH-cam" GOOD FOR YOU, MY DUDE!!!!
A wise man once showed me a video... and I appreciated him!
I'm used to cutting a groove then breaking the race... cool idea I will definitely try
That was so brilliant I had to watch it multiple times
You sir deserve a pat on the back for that one! 💪💯
That was bad ass! Another trick if you don't have a torch that gets hot enough, cut a groove in it as close to the axle as possible on the race and take a wedge air hammer in the cut and it will break and fracture and come off..
Outstanding.. i would have put it in a lathe and heated it up, but i would have still needed to knock it off with. lead mallet. This is genius at work.
I like the ball bearing idea - ive never tried this trick on axle shafts - the method works great for hubs though
I’ve been around the block, it’s a bigggg block, and I’ve never seen this trick! Top five nifty way to speed up the process!
Mad ingenuity! Much respect 😮
Lol! Dude that was amazing! Didn't even scar the shaft.🤠👍
Yeah, you taught me something new, on Sunday morning no less... Slick brother. 👍
It works great. We do it all the time at work
Awesome. Thanks to this video, I now know EVERYTHING.
Damn! No more cutting it off with the cutoff! Great tip. I need to do my other rear axle bearing and hated it the first time.
The time I had to do this I just rested the axle on a pipe with the torch clamped to a cinder block. Rotated the axle while heating it till the race spun when poked, tilted the axle upright and tapped the race off. Y doesn’t fall right off but at least I’m not worried about dropping an axle while it’s spinning on a stainless steel ball.
Cool Trick, I'll remember this. Thanks for sharing!
As a Mechanic we say work smarter not harder. Good job.😊
We used to cut the Ford 9 inches off with a torch , but they weren't flat against the axle flange , its easier if it's backed off , where you can hit either side , never cut the axle , how you get that ball bearing back out ? Drill and dent puller ?
Cool trick, still faster to use a die grinder and cutoff wheel to cut a notch in the race and hit it once with an air hammer. Makes for good tv though
NICE!!! I'll be sure to use that trick next time I get one that style
No wonder it’s so expensive to have them replaced at the dealership. Nice video and trick.
Damn all these years setting up my press or cutting them off.
Thanks!!
Tig welder also works perfect, nothing beats the focused heat of tig
It would take a man with such a great taste in music to find a solution like this.
You can also mask the shaft and weld a bead on the bearing/race and let it cool. It'll fall right off
This is brilliant 👏 👌. Thank you for posting it.
I learned this from a guy from Honduras those people are big-time Toyota lovers a lot of T100 tundras have come in with broken differentials trying to do man's work in the econo truck It will be either the gears or the bearings but we change out everything
Very smart
. I do have a lathe that can spin it and if it don't come out I can just cut it right off.
Nice! Pretty smart and handycteick there sir. 👍👍
That is awesome love this great technique sir
Finally a worthwhile trick.
Here I was with my slick removal / installation tool made from an old axle end and a press.
This is way better.
Nice. Need to remember ghat trick for future repairs
This was so cool thank you it will save me so much time the next 1 I do !!
Thank you for this I almost broke my press getting the last one off