New pistons are some pretty machine work, jewelry! I've never seen so many pieces and rings on a piston but then again I never worked on a diesel engine.
Nice work Lance. I'm hoping your fuel tank is dirty and rusty inside, so I can see how a professional cleans it out. I have tried to clean inside of a few and have never been completely happy with the result. I always think to myself, I'm glad the fuel goes through 4 filters before it gets to the injectors.
Mine only goes through two filters..but I will tell you my tank was very dirty and when I took apart my injection pump I was surprised how clean the little filter was inside..before I changed my fuel tank my main filter always looked like someone threw a handful of mud inside
I often use REDKOTE to seal them up but this has a new tank so Im not thinking it will need the treatment on this one. We stock it for the Hot Rod guys as well.
I'm watching your series and preparing to do my engine as well. This is my first time attempting to build an engine bottom end but have watched several videos. Only question I have is do you have to check for ring gap and file these rings?
It wont, they need to be reamed to size to make sure they are correct. Standard practice. You probably need an engine reco shop to do the rods, thats what I do.
That might just be a filming blunder, I didnt have any parts left over and the tractor runs very sweet so Im presuming it ended up in there. It is that far back now I cant remember if it was a cast ring or segmented. Ill have to re watch it.
The Oil control Rings on your video look to be a one-piece cast Iron rings.. They look like a GKN set? Having Five piston rings, with Two oil control rings, one below the Gudgeon pin and One above, was an option Deleted on later Land rovers. This left a vacant groove. So I fitted Two, 'One piece' oil control rings to my early LR pistons, with the springs behind, which is why I asked.. Could two Oil control rings be detrimental to cylinder bore lubrication? I fitted them, with new compression rings in the hope of reducing Oil consumption and crank case breathing and maybe help with Piston support and heat dissipation?
I dont think it would. the old 23c engine discarded the bottom one as well due to premature cylinder wear but they were segmented rings. I think nowadays with the one-piece cast rings they should be fine. The oils are a mile better nowadays as well.
Good morning from sunny England, I'm rebuilding a Perkins 4.248 engine built in a factory under licence in the former Yugoslavia. The tractor was bought seized, I've fitted new crankshaft and pistons but I made the mistake of buying small end bushes and taking to a engine specialist for fitting and reaming. They told me 3 of the conrods were twisted or bent, I bought 3 new ones and discovered the small end bushes are pre fit and reamed already! Now I woukd like you to confirm if I'm stupid fitting the one original? It looks a more substantial built conrod especially in the end cap area having a bit more steel in it I would say. Will this throw out the balance of the engine? It's on piston number 4 so is accessible even with the balancer unit fitted, sump not bolted on yet so could remove and change this rod if you think it needs doing. Thanks in advance and keep up the good videos.
Hello I’m building a d3.152 I’m using a Maxie force kit and they have the 5th bottom ring the spring loaded ring .I see yours spring loaded rig the fourth what should I do ?
@@BundyBearsShed I've just found that out, but for the same price you can buy new conrods with bushes already fitted and reamed as paying a specialist to do the work. I found out 3 of my rod's were twisted so just put new in.
Good one Lance. This a part of the job I enjoy. I always feel new pistons, rings, sleeves etc means you’re giving the engine a new heart. Lovely job!
thanks Gordon, I like playing with the new parts as well.
New pistons are some pretty machine work, jewelry! I've never seen so many pieces and rings on a piston but then again I never worked on a diesel engine.
The new pistons are nice indeed. Always look good.
Good one lance couldn’t get over the long stroke on the con rod, pretty mean compression for a 3 cylinder thanks mate John
Thanks John.
Great stuff Lance - very informative as usual.
Thanks Charles.
You know your stuff buddy
Thankyou.
Nice work Lance. I'm hoping your fuel tank is dirty and rusty inside, so I can see how a professional cleans it out. I have tried to clean inside of a few and have never been completely happy with the result. I always think to myself, I'm glad the fuel goes through 4 filters before it gets to the injectors.
Mine only goes through two filters..but I will tell you my tank was very dirty and when I took apart my injection pump I was surprised how clean the little filter was inside..before I changed my fuel tank my main filter always looked like someone threw a handful of mud inside
I often use REDKOTE to seal them up but this has a new tank so Im not thinking it will need the treatment on this one. We stock it for the Hot Rod guys as well.
I'm watching your series and preparing to do my engine as well. This is my first time attempting to build an engine bottom end but have watched several videos. Only question I have is do you have to check for ring gap and file these rings?
I like to check them but not often you need to file rings nowadays.
@BundyBearsShed okay thank you. I will still check them like you said
Neat. Car is much the same? Can you just put new rings on old cylinders?
Yes you can as long as the bore is not worn too much and you remove any wear lip from the top of the bore.
Do you normally check the end gap on the rings in the bore or is that not a concern when the liners, pistons and rings are all new?
Yes but not an issue now a days I find. I only ever check a couple. But I cant remember when it was I needed to change the gap its been that long ago.
hi lance love the video. my piston wont fit on my con rod. i have pressed the new gundgone bushes in and it wont go in
It wont, they need to be reamed to size to make sure they are correct. Standard practice. You probably need an engine reco shop to do the rods, thats what I do.
5 years old I know.. Why did you leave out the spring behind the bottom Oil control Ring?
That might just be a filming blunder, I didnt have any parts left over and the tractor runs very sweet so Im presuming it ended up in there. It is that far back now I cant remember if it was a cast ring or segmented. Ill have to re watch it.
The Oil control Rings on your video look to be a one-piece cast Iron rings.. They look like a GKN set? Having Five piston rings, with Two oil control rings, one below the Gudgeon pin and One above, was an option Deleted on later Land rovers. This left a vacant groove. So I fitted Two, 'One piece' oil control rings to my early LR pistons, with the springs behind, which is why I asked.. Could two Oil control rings be detrimental to cylinder bore lubrication? I fitted them, with new compression rings in the hope of reducing Oil consumption and crank case breathing and maybe help with Piston support and heat dissipation?
I dont think it would. the old 23c engine discarded the bottom one as well due to premature cylinder wear but they were segmented rings. I think nowadays with the one-piece cast rings they should be fine. The oils are a mile better nowadays as well.
Good morning from sunny England, I'm rebuilding a Perkins 4.248 engine built in a factory under licence in the former Yugoslavia.
The tractor was bought seized, I've fitted new crankshaft and pistons but I made the mistake of buying small end bushes and taking to a engine specialist for fitting and reaming.
They told me 3 of the conrods were twisted or bent, I bought 3 new ones and discovered the small end bushes are pre fit and reamed already! Now I woukd like you to confirm if I'm stupid fitting the one original? It looks a more substantial built conrod especially in the end cap area having a bit more steel in it I would say. Will this throw out the balance of the engine? It's on piston number 4 so is accessible even with the balancer unit fitted, sump not bolted on yet so could remove and change this rod if you think it needs doing. Thanks in advance and keep up the good videos.
I would try and fit a matched set and with that Im advising to weigh the con rods so you get no vibration and the piston heights are exactly the same.
@@BundyBearsShed Many thanks Lance, I'll take that rod out in the morning and pop down to the supplier and grab a matching new one.
Hi Lance, do you have a video of replacing the bush in the conrod? Thanks
No, sorry, as they need to be reamed to size I get them done at the engineering place.
@@BundyBearsShed Hi, ok th thanks for the reply. Was not aware of that. Cheers
Hello I’m building a d3.152 I’m using a Maxie force kit and they have the 5th bottom ring the spring loaded ring .I see yours spring loaded rig the fourth what should I do ?
Follow their recomendations is best.
Did you check the ring end gap in the bore, or the depth and side clearance??
Yes but not an issue now a days I find. I only ever check a couple.
I have just replaced the small end bushes and I cannot get the gudgeon pin to go through at all
What do you think is wrong
All gudgeon bushes need to be reamed to size
@@BundyBearsShed I've just found that out, but for the same price you can buy new conrods with bushes already fitted and reamed as paying a specialist to do the work. I found out 3 of my rod's were twisted so just put new in.
Fancy rings< what about the ring gap??
Checked and all good, not such a big issue now a days with manufacturing tolerance very accurate. I still check one or two per engine.
ar ok
Seit wann hat der Mf 135 Wannenkolben ?
Probably came with direct injection.