My daughter just bought her first house - which came with this style washer, in pretty decent shape, but stopping mid-cycle. Your solution worked perfectly (she has no kids or animals to fall in!). Also made me realize how much I miss these older direct-drive washers - no computer interface, everything home-fixable - IMO worth maintaining vs. today's entry-level junk. So I updated a few parts, and she's running like a champ. Thanks for keeping this video up!
Congratulations for your daughter! Oh yeah, definitely keep that machine operational--AT ANY COST. I have many other repair videos of these types of machines.
A year of frustration is over. Took longer to find my wire stripper than to do the job. Plugged it back in and hot damn it fired back up. You are my hero today. Thanks.
At the time of me posting this comment this video is over seven years old and it's still helping people. I have this exact same washing machine and your method worked perfectly. You save me a lot of money. I was either going to call a repair man or buy a new washer. So thank you!👍
I know this is from 2 years ago, but you just saved me from having to buy a whole new washer! I bought and installed 2 new lid switches thinking it was faulty parts.. but no it was the darn connector and by bypassing it, it works again! We have had this washer in the family since my parents bought it new over 20 years ago!
@@FixitWithFoxy this was 3 years ago... I no longer have that washer. But it's under the front panel... There should be 2 clipped in trim pieces on the front side. You take those off and there's screws underneath those.. there's a couple screws on the back if I remember correctly, but if I were you def look up other videos on how to open the control module then come back to this video
Bravo! Saved me a remodel of my laundry room to replace the unit just like the one in the video. (The space BARELY fits the current 15 year old units and while I could afford a brand new set, they are all wider and I would have to take out a wall to fit them in). Hopefully this fix buys me a few more years! THANK YOU!
You're welcome! It'll buy you way more than a few years, that machine can last forever and it's simple to fix if something goes wrong, and parts are inexpensive. I have many other repair videos on these types of washers, so in the rare event you do have a problem, you know who to go to!
This video saved me, we where doing laundry tonight before a big trip and the washer just stopped, I did this and now we will be able to have all our laundry done in time for the trip. Thank you
You're very welcome. It will last for way longer than 10 more years. Never get rid of it, fix it at any expense, you will never be able to buy another one because they stopped making them. I have other repair videos, and if you don't find one of mine, there are many others out there. Parts are cheap and plentiful, yet the machines rarely break.
THANKS BROTHER, YOU HAVE MADE MY DAY. HONESTLY WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU HEARD OF A SMALL CHILD CLIMBING UP THE SIDE OF A WASHER AND GOING FOR A DIP WHEN ITS RUNNING.
Worked like a charm for me! I wasn't even sure if the lid switch was the problem because I don't have a ohm-meter or whatever. Too fancy. But the load of laundry stopped mid-cycle, and it would add more water but wouldn't spin. I read that the lid switch is a common culprit so I will get the part online. I'm a mom to a 5 month old and I needed to be able to do laundry NOW!
Glad I was able to help out! Multimeters aren't expensive, Harbor Freight often has coupons giving them away free with purchase--go in, buy a pack of batteries you can always use, and get a free meter. More than plenty enough for simple testing like this.
Omg I fixed my machine. I did exactly what you showed. I previously did a different way and it caught fire and melted part of the black adapter. With electrical tape. I used an electrical cap to the Grey and white wire. Omg you saved me so much money. Thank you thank you for showing exactly what to do. I am sooooo happy.
I was about to order the OEM part for $39, then the knock-off for $9. Yours is an even better solution. Simple, well explained, perfect. Brilliant, thanks! Read several comments. Do you ever get tired of the red, white, and blue wire questions? 😉
Thanks Jeff! Yes, I sure do get tired of them. Thank you for reading through the comments, often there is a wealth of information and questions that have already been asked, that have been answered. I have many other videos of these types of machines, including several repair videos. In case you ever need them, you'll know where to look first!
Thanks man. After reading reviews on replacement switches, I decided to just save myself the time and do this. Wishing I never actually removed the old switch at this point! Good video.
@@jaykay18 my parents have this same washing machine. I just replaced the lid latch switch and the lid will still open mid cycle. What would be your next step?
Great brother! Ordered and tried to install new switch- still no clicking🤷🏽♀️Thanks to you Im totally by passing it and its breezing through all the stages of wash with no hesitations 😃Thanks so much❣️
Love the video. Took me 20 years to realize that you shouldn't twist the wires individually if you are using a wire nut. The bare loose strands grip much better and mesh better, creating a better electrical joint. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this, I was just getting ready throw in the towel and go get another washer. You were clear on the instructions and right to the point.
Thank you! Just did this to the machine I picked up for my shop. You explained it very well, took me longer to get the panel open than to snip and wrap up the wires!
Can you help me, my washing machine has different colored cables: green, gray and black. The gray and black do pass current and the green does not. I can do what you show in your video but with the gray and black cable? Thank you, I will appreciate your help.
In AC (Alternating Current) circuits, such as the washing machine in this video, green is almost always ground. So that stays left alone. If there are ONLY 2 other wires, you should be able to do the same. You can check the wiring diagram (should be tucked in the underside of the controls panel) to be sure.
My washer went down yesterday...timing is bad as we are still on lockdown in Michigan. I followed the steps with minimal tools and corrected. I am the least handy dude around by the way. Thank you very much
All the way from Jamaica just wanna say thanks for your video it left me to fix my washer I did exactly the same thing you did an it's works like new thanks a lot for your help
Thanks for the video man. I JUST replaced the timer on our washer about a month ago, and then it was on again, off again working. We'd open the lid and shut it again, and it would work for a couple minutes and then cut back out. It was driving my wife and I nuts, and we didn't really WANT to go buy a new washer and dryer after JUST spending $160 for the timer. Figured it was the switch, saw this video, and voila! Works like a charm. Thank you!
Don't ever do that Todd, you'll never get another washer that works as good as this one! You can find a replacement lid switch online pretty cheap if you were interested in replacing it.
I have a different machine/make but the concept should be the same with mine. The pins on my lid switch connector are as follows. Which pins should be shorted to achieve a 'switch defeat'? 1 DC Motor #1 (red) 2. DC Motor #2 (black) 3. Lock switch 4. Gnd. 5. Lid Reed Switch 6. Unlock
@@MarkSmith-hp6os Those are even easier to fix, just put on a hand truck and wheel to the curb. No, not a joke. READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH.
@@MarkSmith-hp6os If you did read it, you would not have asked the question. Your assumption is completely incorrect. Your machine has a weenie little DC motor, as opposed to an AC motor like what drives this machine, so it doesn't work very well. And that's not just due to the motor, it uses that weakling motor to drive the whole machine. The AC motor machine uses a transmission, to achieve better performance, just like a car.
Thank you 😊...I was going nuts trying to figure out what is going on. I'm glad that you posted this because IT'S SAVING MONEY 💰 FOR A 10 MINUTE FIX...THANKS AGAIN.
Would have been more helpful to mention the modle you are working on. My machine did not have any green wire at all. Only red, white blue and a light yellowish
im so glad your here ! so i hsve an 2005 whirlpool cabrio platnum the fella down the road said i cabt disconnect my lid lock !! i accidently broke off the tab to lock it ...im hoping to disconnect please advise ..
That's not this kind of machine. There is no way to bypass the lid lock if it's broken. If it fully works, you can dismount the latch from the lid and stick it into the lock and it will work that way.
Excellent! My grandmother's whirlpool machine that I acquired lives on. I don't need to go and find a replacement machine or spend anything on my current one!
You SHOULD replace the lid switch, it's cheap. This job was done because the owner asked for it to be, not because the switch failed. On my own personal machines, I put a switch in so I could have the lid switch operate properly, or have it always disabled.
Great Video and highly appreciated However, question to be raised my Waching machine when I lift the Lid its stopped but when release the Lid again the Machine does not started and you can't hear any clicking, please advise, B.Regards
With a model number of the machine, I can research it a little further. But these lid switches have been known to go bad in such a way as you explained. Replacing or disabling it may solve the problem.
If your machine has a lid LOCK that actually locks the lid shut, you're out of luck, there's no defeating it. You have to buy the expensive parts and replace them.
@@jaykay18 Oh GREAT! Aren’t I lucky to buy a useless washing machine? I honestly don’t think it’s a “Safety Issue” as much as Corporate Greed… a way for Whirlpool, Maytag Et.al. to make sure we replace units frequently. This NEW (used 5 times) washer constantly makes loads so uneven, it’s going to kill the whole motor assembly. This washer always redistributes even SMALL loads, so the machine DANCES ALL OVER THE FLOOR no matter how small or how many times I stop it to make the load even! I’m disgusted w all of them. But thanks a lot; at least I know. Now I’m just gonna wash my clothes the Old Fashioned way….WITH AN OLD WOODEN WASHBOARD.
@@denirn8725 I fully agree with you on that, they're junk. Last good washer Whirlpool made rolled off the line in 2009. So, the trick is to buy a USED machine, 2009 or older, that doesn't have the lid lock. Those are called DIRECT DRIVE machines. There's no belt, no dinky motor, no sub-par wash action. It's an old-school washer that has one job to do and does it better than anything else out there. No lock, it won't really go off balance because it has an actual suspension system. It has a tub brake to prevent he tub from turning while it agitates, because that negates the effect of the agitation. It's a direct-drive machine with no belt and it has an actual transmission to do the hard work. Just like the kind we used to have, or your parents or grandparents may have had. They are out there. If you're worried about the machine breaking down, don't. They're very easy to service, I have several repair videos on different things that can go bad. And of course there are other TH-cam channels to show you how to fix stuff. Parts are inexpensive and plentiful. Those machines run for a good 20 years without much in the way of any trouble. I have 2 machines, and I will never get rid of them or replace them with any other kind of washer. They were some of the best ever, ever made.
@@jaykay18 You guys are wonderful! You know so much about machines like washers etc. & can fix almost anything. Reminds me of Mike Rowe’s program, telling young kids, they DON’T NEED A $300K University Education to succeed & be fulfilled. They spend 4 years on Useless Knowledge they’ll never use & NEVER get the job of their “Dreams”. I thank God & personally thank every genius tradesman I can every time I meet one. They’re the amazing people who keep our good lives GOOD in this country. Oh & you’re right! I did think about an old refurbished washer. In my vacation house I have a 27 y/o Kenmore that’s perfect. My Granny bought it right before she died. And I bought the house without everything in it. That old Kenmore has never failed. I keep all parts I can get to clean & lubricated. AND the only lock on it, is on the final spin cycle. It stops spinning BUT you still can always open the lid. It’s gonna be a nice “USED” IN GOOD SHAPE WASHER when this piece of junk dies…. Probably next year when it’s 2 years old. 😆 THANKS AGAIN it’s refreshing to know I’m not just the only complainer about this technology.
@@denirn8725 You are too kind! For me, I went to college, got my useless knowledge, did all that. My actual knowledge was hands-on. I was just naturally curious. I wasn't afraid to take things apart to see how they worked. I'm a computer technician by trade, as such my mechanical skills are lagging behind but I can get the job done. Mike Rowe is absolutely right. If you're willing to put your blood, sweat, and tears into stuff, it can get done. Nowadays with the advent of the Internet and TH-cam, we have instructionals and instructional videos. That makes a lot of jobs very simple these days, if only people can follow directions (they usually can't). Tradesmen are great people, until it comes time for the bill. I once had a plumber in to change some gaskets and a valve on my boiler, he quoted me $625. I bought the parts myself and saved $600. So they usually charge too much. There are, however, some jobs that are just out of my league, and I have to pay what they ask. Finding an honest tradesman who would charge a reasonable price is one the hardest things to do. Your granny's washer is the type just like this one in this video. And yes, the content of this video applies, you can disable that lid switch so it will stay running even with the lid open, if you want it to. On my own machines, I added that option, and put in a switch so I can enable the lid switch function again if I wanted. I also like a warm rinse, so once again, I added that option via a switch. Regarding your junker, what you can do, though may be in the way/inconvenient, is to remove the latch from the lid of the washer, the top part. Then you stick that down into where it normally would mate up and leave it there. Might even duct tape it in place and call it good. All of the other problems will still be there, but there won't be any waiting for the machine to stop, provided you don't mind going for a spin yourself. Any other questions, I'm always here.
Great and very helpful video. I do have a question, what if I don’t have the little green piece you put on the end of the wires? Is it something else you can use?
You can solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing, but that requires skill. Do not substitute, the full current of the machine is passing through these wires. If they short out you're going to have a very big problem. You need wire nuts. Home improvement stores sell them.
Thank you Chris! I'm only sorry that you can't use this trick on your washer. But I would suggest, if it's too costly to fix, that you find a good used appliance shop and buy an older washer. Chances are very good you will have it for 30 years or more without a problem. And if you find a machine like the one I showed in this video, I have several repair videos on it for common problems, that are super-inexpensive to fix.
Hi Jay. I took apart my washer and instead of grey white and green I have blue white and red. I would appreciate if you helped me out to figure out which two to splice. Thanx
There is more to a video than just the video. There's the description. OFTENTIMES, THE DESCRIPTION WILL CONTAIN VITAL INFORMATION THAT WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE VIDEO. *ALWAYS* READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION!!!!!!!!!!!
@@jaykay18 I cut the blue and white wires, left the red wire as is,washer is workin perfectly once again. I won't thank you for your reply, I will thank you very much for your video. Have a great one, Jay.
Some models have screws at the bottom of the control panel. Some models have screws behind the machine. Some have no screws, and you use a putty knife to pop the clips underneath.
This video is very helpful. I think it’s pointing me in the right direction. My model is a whirlpool WTW4800BQ0. my lid lock has four wires coming from the control board. Red white blue and yellow. Any idea how I could bypass this lid lock on my model?
Yes, there are two things you can do: 1. Throw out the machine. OR 2. Buy the parts that you need to fix it. That's it. There's no fooling a machine like that with a lid lock, if it's broken, there's no way to bypass it. A machine like I showed has no computers in it, it's strict point-to-point wiring like wall outlets in your house.
This video does not depict, nor talk about a lid lock. If you have a machine with a lid lock, the best thing to do is to take it out to the curb since the washing action is extremely poor (they changed to a belt-driven design with an indexing tub, which is just about useless). There is absolutely no workaround or trick that you can do to get around this problem you have. REAL washing machines don't have this malarkey. The only way you can fix yours is to buy all the parts it requires and replace them, only to waste your money when the next thing breaks.
Hey jaykay. Will this work on a whirlpool WTW5000DW1? mine has the same console as the one in the video, but no agitator. Thanks and great video! Darn. I just saw my model number on your junk list. Shoot. I was trying to save some cash these days.
OK, you figured it out. Junk the washer, buy one of these old school ones used, with the agitator, and never worry about laundry again. If it has a button on it to start the wash, that's the bad ones. The old school mechanical timer, the kind mom or grandma used to have.
@jaykay18 looks like they did the same wires and just used electrical tape. Got loose and started arcing maybe? Redid the connection and will see what happens🤞
@@brettc1981 Yeah electrical tape isn't going to cut it. You're putting the full current of the motor through those wires, it needs a solid connection. At the very least, wire nuts, better would be solder and heat shrink.
Hey Jay, great video! My washer stopped draining/spinning. Inspected the switch and it was for sure bad. The connector and switch had melted together. Is this a common problem? What would cause them to melt together like that?
I have seen that happen before. Generally, a bad connection, corroded metal contacts, or moisture can cause that. A bad connection causes heat, heat causes plastic to melt.
Something non-HE. Yes, an old-school, used washer, like one your mother or grandmother used to have. It'll run for years and years and years, and your clothes will be cleaner than you ever thought was possible.
@@jaykay18 dang that is not what I wanted to hear. Lol. Our lid lock decided to die tonight and then my husband broke out the whole housing case beating it up so I was hoping the wire trick would solve the prob
Why don't you "just wanderer" over to the video description first. I don't write those video descriptions for my health, you should read them for yours.
I opened the panel and found this is already done. My washer won’t spin during a cycle but will when I turn the dial to spin and start it. Any suggestions?
I first need to make sure that the machine you have does NOT have a lid lock. If it does, you're out of luck. If it doesn't, that's an odd problem. I would first listen to the timer. It's a motor-driven electromechanical timer and has a small and quiet clock motor inside. You may have to stick your ear on it, but you should heard it run. If it doesn't, I have seen them stall mid-cycle, in which case you'd need a new timer. Without a model number of the machine, that's the best I can offer.
My lid switch connector melted. I tried to bypass just as you showed in the video, but it did not do anything. I checked the wires for connectivity, and there is none. Do you have any suggestions?
Hey man. I have a Whirlpool LSR8010PQ0 and the middle contact of the switch melted. I tried your method and the washer won't run, after about 60 seconds of waiting for it to do anything I smelled something melting so I unplugged the washer. The two wires felt warm to the touch but not hot enough to melt.
My wires are brown, white and black, also a whirlpool top loader machine... I connected the brown and black together... that makes the machine be able to rinse and spin... but I have to revert them to normal if I want the machine to go through a wash cycle... when the wash cycle goes to the rinse and spin part I have to jump the wires again (brown and black) /// Is there a way to just not have to be moving wires around? The part arrives 3 weeks from now, and I have no kids, it is really annoying having to do every time I want to complete the wash cycle.
The "screw thingy" is called a wire nut. You use the wire nut size appropriate to the gauge wire you're dealing with. Or, in "screw thingy" terms, whichever one fits.
Thank you for this video; I tried shorting the black and white leaving the green intact but it still doesn't work. It is a whirlpool washer and dryer combo; do you have any recommendations? Many thanks. *I saw your additional humiliation clause; I have traced the latch assembly wires from the panels onwards; at this point I just want to drain the tub and get a new machine. Is there any other way to drain the washer than the 'hose' in the bottom? Many thanks.
I want to try this for my washer but I don’t have wire strippers or the little cover for the wires . Would I just be able to use electrical tape to cover the exposed wires ?
For a test, you're better off unplugging the connector and probing that with a short piece of 14 gauge wire. If you don't have any wire, you can use 2 paper clips together in tandem, bent into shape--FOR NO MORE THAN A SECOND, they cannot carry the current needed and will get hot! Don't even THINK about touching the exposed stuff, and keep it away from the machine, in other words, hold the wire behind the connector in the air. Get some wire nuts, you can get them at a hardware store for a couple bucks. No strippers, a pocket knife can work in a pinch but it'll be a sloppy job. Strippers are a couple of bucks as well.
@jaykay18 you RoCk my friend. I can't thank you enough for this. This happens to be my second repair ever on a washer and I'm soooo stoked to do it with your instructions! Mahalo nui loa!
Washer will drain but won't spin. Is that indicative of a faulty lid switch? Oddly, it spun fine prior to repairing the pressure hose attached to water level setting (was overflowing). Reconnect hose, no spin; unhook hose, overflows but spins fine. What's the interrelation between the two? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I need to first know what kind of washer this is. A lot of people think they have a washer similar to what I showed in this video, but theirs is a newer machine, which is a totally different ball of wax. If you can give me the model number of the machine I can help you further.
@@jaykay18 It's a Whirlpool, older model; numbers 3357978 stamped on back. Not sure if that's the model # or not. I since disconnected/bypassed lid switch and same issue occurs. When in spin mode I can spin drum by hand and it engages kind of randomly (sometimes easier than others); clutch maybe??. And thx for the prompt response.
@@indoctrinationamericasgrea3543 Ha, that's the part number for the back cabinet panel itself! All right, if this is a direct-drive unit like this, and does NOT have a lid lock, Play button, LEDs or other indicator lights on the panel, the first thing to check is agitation. If the unit WILL agitate, then the motor coupler is OK. If not, then the motor coupler needs to be replaced. If the motor coupler is OK, note that the washers have a neutral drain. So after agitating, they will stop, start up again and run the motor, but the only thing that will happen is it will drain just sitting there. That goes for about 2 minutes. After that, it will shut off for a moment, start back up, and should spin. If it's not spinning, then check the clutch. You'll need to remove the cabinet and look on top of the transmission while it's put into spin. The clutch should spin. If it doesn't, the transmission is bad. If it does, the drive block, or brake and drive tube are bad.
@@jaykay18 Thanks again. Won't have time today to pull it back apart, but Ill let you know what happens tomorrow. However, before I do, some say it won't agitate if clutch is bad (and it does); but it spins and pumps fine once engaged (which a faulty transmission won't do (??)); unless I'm mistaken; which is very possible. Consequently leaving me a bit confused... . Thanks again!
@@minalmasud381 If the machine is used, see if the original owners will take it back and give you your money back. If it was brand new, the place you bought it from will have to fix it.
Hi great video, my question is that my machine lid lock has 4 wires, red, blue, yellow and white. What 2 wires I connect together and what do I need to do with the other two wires? If you could help, it’ll be greatly appreciated! Thanks
My help is for you to read the description. ALWAYS READ THE DESCRIPTION, ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH, IT HELPS PREVENT STUPID QUESTIONS THAT HAVE ALREADY BEEN ANSWERED.
The one wire in the connector to my lid switch burned the plastic on the connector and lid switch. It oddly still works but I was hoping to replace the wires and lid switch but I'm having trouble finding replacements, mainly for the wires. Is this a safe alternative to replacing them?
Replacement parts for these machines are cheap and plentiful. Finding the actual wire connector, that's a different story. What is depicted in this video is at your own risk.
Do you know why the lid switch is overload and heating, the tree wires plug can't be removed? I have cut and bypass the lid swich, this trouble can be fix with the lid switch replace?
Probably a bad connection in the connector to the switch. Sometimes water can get in there and cause corrosion, which will make a bad connection. Bad connections can overheat. You can try replacing the switch, but if it happens again, you'll need to replace the switch and the connector on the wire.
So the gray and the white fused together. When the machine finish the whole washing cycle and I lift the door will it shut off the red light (the one that remains on at the end indicating that it's done)?
I seen this video on the washer lid lock bypass and I’m trying to do it myself on a Whirlpool mode, i ran into an issue though, the three wires you have are green white and black and the three that I have are dark blue white and red I’m not sure which ones to put together and cap off. I’m assuming dark blue and red are pos and neg and white is ground or neutral ?
The title says Whirlpool. I'd suggest you source a wiring diagram for your model and see which wires need to be cut and spliced, if it can be done at all.
Thanks for letting me at least finish the load without bailing water. This will buy us some time on these old appliances. Now the wife gets to pick out a new washer and dryer. :-)
Make that smiley face a frown face--there are NO washing machines on the market, at any price, that can do as good of a job as what you have. Fix what you have at any price, believe me, you'll end up being really sorry if you replace it. Not to mention, it won't last anywhere near as long as this machine. I have two of these "direct drive" Whirlpool machines, one is 11 years old and the other is 26 years old. I've replaced ONE part on the older one, a $6 part called the agitator dogs, and I have a video on how to change that. Also I have replaced the timer on this machine in this video, and a motor coupler on another one. They're easy to work on, parts are cheap and plentiful. Trust me. If you don't want to and pick out a new set, tell me how bad it is.
I couldn't tell what Washer exactly this was, but would this work on a Whirlpool WTW5550X Washer? The lid lock mechanism in my washer is busted internally. Would this able me to actually do laundry?
Sorry, you're S.O.L. Lid lock washers have sensors that need to work to satisfy the computer. Without all of that safety equipment in place, it's not going to wash. You have to replace the broken parts, then you should be all right.
Thanks, but no, it won't work. You have a Playskool washer, you have to fix what's wrong, or just replace it with an old school one from a used appliance shop.
I have a whirlpool ultimate care ii washer model number LSQ9030PQ1.. I did some research and it says to try the lid switch. ( fills up with water, then stops) I bought the new part put it in, still nothing. Can I cut the wires like you did on my machine for it to bypass the lid switch and wash my clothes?
It's pretty rare that a new switch is defective, but not unheard of. Unplug the connector, and make yourself a jumper wire and jump the pins before you go cutting any wires. Best to use a piece of wire like from a piece of Romex, 14 gauge. If you don't have that handy, for a _quick_ test, and I mean *quick*, you can unbend a paper clip. Chances are very good that if it works that paper clip will get VERY hot so be careful. If it doesn't work still, you could be looking at a bad timer. Try a different cycle, like delicates. You also didn't mention if it drains or if the motor makes any noise at all, I'm assuming it doesn't. If all of that's good, then likely you're looking at a bad motor. Sometimes the capacitor on them goes bad, but you'd hear a hum or something, which again, you didn't mention so I'm assuming not.
HI Jay, I have been waiting on a new lid lock assembly for 6 weeks - every week the repair company says "another week". Meanwhile, I'm doing laundry for 12 people - lugging a mountain to the laundromat and back every 3 days. The Whirlpool Model MVWB955FW1 is 3 years old. I asked if the repairman could just override the lid lock mechanism and he said he "will lose the contract with Whirlpool if we do that." So I'm 70 and ready to try to override it using your cut, strip, wire nut and tape" solution. Do you think it will work on my model?
The repairman is right, he CAN'T bypass the lid lock for you. He would probably get fired, and the company he works for would likely lose their contract to repair them. As for your bypassing it yourself, lesson learned. Your washer is 3 years old and already broken. This trend will continue after it has been repaired. There's no fooling a modern washer into working, they make it that way so it CAN'T be bypassed. You should have fixed your old machine. If you're seriously doing laundry for that many people, you should consider either an older direct-drive washer like the one shown here (would need to get it secondhand as they don't make them anymore--and never will again.) Or, your other option is to invest in a Speed Queen Model TC5--and ONLY that model, which you will not find in Home Depot or Lowe's or any other big-box store, you'd have to go to an appliance store. If you invest in such a machine, it will likely outlive you, as would an older Whirlpool.
@@jaykay18 Hi, I did just buy a Speed Queen dryer, with NO bells and whistles. I will take your advice about the TC5 - I hope it has a BIG tub. That's why I bought the Whirlpool. But for the time being, and sorry for asking twice, will your instructions on cutting the wires in this video work for getting my washer to work right now?
@@kirstiewilde5015 While I do have a propensity for speaking with alacrity most times, I also wouldn't deliberately NOT answer your question. I suppose I will have to repeat myself. There's no fooling a computer-controlled machine like you have. Cutting and splicing wires on that would likely fry the computer circuit boards, making the repair cost more than you paid for the machine in the first place. It's not worth it's weight in scrap either, and never was High Efficiency. It took longer to wash the clothes than ever before. It was garbage before it left the showroom floor. Any of the washers I had recommended have a center agitator, like the old school washers did. They have the same size tub as the old washers did. They do a good job, and they do it FAST and EFFICIENTLY, in one shot. Unfortunately, you were duped into the marketing hype like most consumers. Now you're paying the price. You're thoroughly screwed. Go out and hunt down what you had, you never know what you have until you lose it. Once you see how fast a REAL washing machine can do the laundry, you'll see that what you have is garbage.
@@jaykay18 Thank you, Jay. Amazingly quick and kind advice. Is there an old school front-load that you recommend (like the big ones at the laundromat I see when I'm lugging my mountain of laundry there twice a week)? I have to wash a lot of blankets and quilts and the top load with agitator can't do them.
@@kirstiewilde5015 They never made a decent front loading washer in this country, except for ones back in maybe the 1950s and 1960s. But they were rare. You'd be surprised what you can fit in a top loader with an agitator. I do Queen size blankets, sheets, and comforters in mine. King size is a problem.
@@ytubeworld. Yes, the innards are the same. If it's not draining, then it wouldn't be agitating either, because the lid switch controls the entire washer on this style unit. If the machine will fill and agitate but not drain, chances are the drain pump is bad and you will need to replace that. There are many videos out there on how to do it, it's very easy. That's if the motor runs. If it won't run at all when it's supposed to drain or spin, it is possible the motor itself has gone bad.
Have a GE washer that refused to spin/drain and is working after watching this video, thanks! Question, ended up clipping all three by mistake and the green (assuming it's the ground) is hanging freely. Should this wire be grounded somehow? Not sure what to do.
Generally, green is ground. You can possibly reconnect it from where you clipped it off. If you can't because it was clipped too close, lesson learned for next time--always leave a little slack. Quite honestly, since the machine is otherwise working, it should be fine. The top has metal-to-metal contact somewhere else so it will remain grounded.
That's a Playskool washer with a lid lock and a belt drive. Everything's computer controlled, and without that lid lock and switch working properly, the washer wants to be brought to the curb so it can be recycled into more Playskool junk, that will break in short order. You need to fix the actual problem, and that means parts, maybe even sensors or circuit boards.
Thanks A lot! I tried the trick and it worked great.... until for some reason whatever burned out the Lid switch caused the wires to heat up and almost melt... Everyone know why or have any suggestions?
The full motor current goes through those wires. If you have a bad connection anywhere, that's a source of resistance and therefore heat. If your motor has a bad capacitor, it can pull excessive current and cause overheated wires. It's time to find the root cause of the problem instead of putting bandaids on it.
@@jaykay18 Thanks a lot. I'm currently doing missionary work in a 3rd world country so parts are not easy to get and a tech that can fix this is even harder to find. But I thought there was a short somewhere because when I lifted the control panel I heard the machine stop and start. Thanks again for your help! I'll see what I can do.
My daughter just bought her first house - which came with this style washer, in pretty decent shape, but stopping mid-cycle. Your solution worked perfectly (she has no kids or animals to fall in!). Also made me realize how much I miss these older direct-drive washers - no computer interface, everything home-fixable - IMO worth maintaining vs. today's entry-level junk. So I updated a few parts, and she's running like a champ. Thanks for keeping this video up!
Congratulations for your daughter! Oh yeah, definitely keep that machine operational--AT ANY COST. I have many other repair videos of these types of machines.
A year of frustration is over. Took longer to find my wire stripper than to do the job. Plugged it back in and hot damn it fired back up. You are my hero today. Thanks.
Great to hear! Happy washing!
At the time of me posting this comment this video is over seven years old and it's still helping people. I have this exact same washing machine and your method worked perfectly. You save me a lot of money. I was either going to call a repair man or buy a new washer. So thank you!👍
You're welcome!
I know this is from 2 years ago, but you just saved me from having to buy a whole new washer! I bought and installed 2 new lid switches thinking it was faulty parts.. but no it was the darn connector and by bypassing it, it works again! We have had this washer in the family since my parents bought it new over 20 years ago!
Excellent! Keep that machine running at ANY cost--you cannot buy another washer out there that can do anywhere near as good of a job!
What is the washer model, please? We want to see if we can find one. We have a large family and need something reliable and easy to fix
Where is the connector you are referring to? Please give me a step by step i can try- if you have the time! Tia!
@@FixitWithFoxy this was 3 years ago... I no longer have that washer. But it's under the front panel... There should be 2 clipped in trim pieces on the front side. You take those off and there's screws underneath those.. there's a couple screws on the back if I remember correctly, but if I were you def look up other videos on how to open the control module then come back to this video
Bravo! Saved me a remodel of my laundry room to replace the unit just like the one in the video. (The space BARELY fits the current 15 year old units and while I could afford a brand new set, they are all wider and I would have to take out a wall to fit them in). Hopefully this fix buys me a few more years! THANK YOU!
You're welcome! It'll buy you way more than a few years, that machine can last forever and it's simple to fix if something goes wrong, and parts are inexpensive. I have many other repair videos on these types of washers, so in the rare event you do have a problem, you know who to go to!
This video saved me, we where doing laundry tonight before a big trip and the washer just stopped, I did this and now we will be able to have all our laundry done in time for the trip. Thank you
Glad I could help!
Shout out to you. Got this same washer had it for 10 years now and because of you it will last longer
Thank you
You're very welcome. It will last for way longer than 10 more years. Never get rid of it, fix it at any expense, you will never be able to buy another one because they stopped making them. I have other repair videos, and if you don't find one of mine, there are many others out there. Parts are cheap and plentiful, yet the machines rarely break.
THANKS BROTHER, YOU HAVE MADE MY DAY. HONESTLY WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU HEARD OF A SMALL CHILD CLIMBING UP THE SIDE OF A WASHER AND GOING FOR A DIP WHEN ITS RUNNING.
Thanks. great question. Though I am surprised that in this day and age, we don't hear of it more, because parents don't watch their kids anymore.
My washer was filling but not agitating and I was so frustrated, but this totally worked! Thank you so much. Took 3 minutes.
Great to hear!
Worked like a charm for me! I wasn't even sure if the lid switch was the problem because I don't have a ohm-meter or whatever. Too fancy. But the load of laundry stopped mid-cycle, and it would add more water but wouldn't spin. I read that the lid switch is a common culprit so I will get the part online. I'm a mom to a 5 month old and I needed to be able to do laundry NOW!
Glad I was able to help out! Multimeters aren't expensive, Harbor Freight often has coupons giving them away free with purchase--go in, buy a pack of batteries you can always use, and get a free meter. More than plenty enough for simple testing like this.
Omg I fixed my machine.
I did exactly what you showed.
I previously did a different way and it caught fire and melted part of the black adapter. With electrical tape.
I used an electrical cap to the Grey and white wire.
Omg you saved me so much money.
Thank you thank you for showing exactly what to do.
I am sooooo happy.
Those wires are carrying the full current of the motor, so they have to be good, solid connections.
I was about to order the OEM part for $39, then the knock-off for $9. Yours is an even better solution. Simple, well explained, perfect. Brilliant, thanks! Read several comments. Do you ever get tired of the red, white, and blue wire questions? 😉
Thanks Jeff! Yes, I sure do get tired of them. Thank you for reading through the comments, often there is a wealth of information and questions that have already been asked, that have been answered.
I have many other videos of these types of machines, including several repair videos. In case you ever need them, you'll know where to look first!
Where'd you see the OEM part for $39?
@@kickasbutterfly Parts direct
Thanks man. After reading reviews on replacement switches, I decided to just save myself the time and do this. Wishing I never actually removed the old switch at this point! Good video.
Thanks Kevin!
@@jaykay18 my parents have this same washing machine. I just replaced the lid latch switch and the lid will still open mid cycle. What would be your next step?
Model #110.29522800
Kenmore
Thank you! After a week of trying to figure out my machine, this took just a couple minutes and it works!!
No problem Jaye!
@@jaykay18 My wires are red, white and blue? Suggestions?
@@leatherneck7476 Read the description. LIKE YOU SHOULD DO FOR EVERY VIDEO.
Great brother! Ordered and tried to install new switch- still no clicking🤷🏽♀️Thanks to you Im totally by passing it and its breezing through all the stages of wash with no hesitations 😃Thanks so much❣️
You're welcome.
3 minutes just saved me 300 dollars. You are very much appreciated!
Thank you!
Love the video. Took me 20 years to realize that you shouldn't twist the wires individually if you are using a wire nut. The bare loose strands grip much better and mesh better, creating a better electrical joint. Thank you!
Thanks. I've had mixed results both ways, and have found that for me, twisting them usually works better.
I wanted to thank you about this fix. Worked like a charm on my Kitchenaid. The washer was stopping mid-cycle. Now its back running again. Happy 2020!
Great to hear, thanks for watching! Happy New Year!
You are THE MAN !!!! Fixed washer in 5 minutes.
Great to hear Marlon!
Thanks for posting this, I was just getting ready throw in the towel and go get another washer. You were clear on the instructions and right to the point.
Thanks. Point is, you CAN'T get another washer, at least not one that works like this. Doing that would have been the worst decision you've made.
Thank you! Just did this to the machine I picked up for my shop. You explained it very well, took me longer to get the panel open than to snip and wrap up the wires!
Thanks Karen!
Can you help me, my washing machine has different colored cables: green, gray and black. The gray and black do pass current and the green does not. I can do what you show in your video but with the gray and black cable? Thank you, I will appreciate your help.
In AC (Alternating Current) circuits, such as the washing machine in this video, green is almost always ground. So that stays left alone. If there are ONLY 2 other wires, you should be able to do the same. You can check the wiring diagram (should be tucked in the underside of the controls panel) to be sure.
@@jaykay18thank you
My washer went down yesterday...timing is bad as we are still on lockdown in Michigan. I followed the steps with minimal tools and corrected. I am the least handy dude around by the way. Thank you very much
You're very welcome!
Just wanted to say thanks! I made a jumper to try on the connector first before I made the cut and it was the culprit!
Thanks again!!!!
You're welcome!
All the way from Jamaica just wanna say thanks for your video it left me to fix my washer I did exactly the same thing you did an it's works like new thanks a lot for your help
Glad I could help
Thanks for the video man. I JUST replaced the timer on our washer about a month ago, and then it was on again, off again working. We'd open the lid and shut it again, and it would work for a couple minutes and then cut back out. It was driving my wife and I nuts, and we didn't really WANT to go buy a new washer and dryer after JUST spending $160 for the timer. Figured it was the switch, saw this video, and voila! Works like a charm. Thank you!
Great to hear Bruce!
Thank you so much! My washer stopped mid cycle. Did this bypass, it worked. I was getting ready to go out and buy a new one.
Don't ever do that Todd, you'll never get another washer that works as good as this one! You can find a replacement lid switch online pretty cheap if you were interested in replacing it.
P
I have a different machine/make but the concept should be the same with mine. The pins on my lid switch connector are as follows. Which pins should be shorted to achieve a 'switch defeat'?
1 DC Motor #1 (red)
2. DC Motor #2 (black)
3. Lock switch
4. Gnd.
5. Lid Reed Switch
6. Unlock
@@MarkSmith-hp6os Those are even easier to fix, just put on a hand truck and wheel to the curb. No, not a joke. READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH.
@@jaykay18 I read it. I assume the principle is the same with every switch. My machine works very well. No need to wheel it to the curb. :)
@@MarkSmith-hp6os If you did read it, you would not have asked the question. Your assumption is completely incorrect. Your machine has a weenie little DC motor, as opposed to an AC motor like what drives this machine, so it doesn't work very well. And that's not just due to the motor, it uses that weakling motor to drive the whole machine. The AC motor machine uses a transmission, to achieve better performance, just like a car.
@@jaykay18 I didn't make any assumptions. I just asked which pins should be shorted, that's all.
@@MarkSmith-hp6os That makes it more obvious you still didn't read the video description.
Thank you 😊...I was going nuts trying to figure out what is going on. I'm glad that you posted this because IT'S SAVING MONEY 💰 FOR A 10 MINUTE FIX...THANKS AGAIN.
You're welcome.
Husband said THANK YOU! This was simple and easy!
You're welcome!
With this; one can open the lid and the machine won't stop, right?
Yes, that's correct.
Would have been more helpful to mention the modle you are working on. My machine did not have any green wire at all. Only red, white blue and a light yellowish
It would be even more beneficial if you read the video's description.
im so glad your here ! so i hsve an 2005 whirlpool cabrio platnum the fella down the road said i cabt disconnect my lid lock !! i accidently broke off the tab to lock it ...im hoping to disconnect please advise ..
No way to do it, you have to replace the broken piece.
@@jaykay18 ok i sure do Thank you
@@jamesminton91 No problem, best of luck.
Hey do this bypass the lid lock
That's not this kind of machine. There is no way to bypass the lid lock if it's broken. If it fully works, you can dismount the latch from the lid and stick it into the lock and it will work that way.
Excellent! My grandmother's whirlpool machine that I acquired lives on. I don't need to go and find a replacement machine or spend anything on my current one!
You SHOULD replace the lid switch, it's cheap. This job was done because the owner asked for it to be, not because the switch failed. On my own personal machines, I put a switch in so I could have the lid switch operate properly, or have it always disabled.
This suggestion works, saved me the hassle/expense of buying a new washer
Great to hear!
You have saved my life thank you ! I fixed mine !! God bless you!
Great, glad to hear!
I'm ready to try this, but my wires are red, white and blue going into the panel in that order. Not sure which 2 on this are tied together.
If you were truly ready, you would have read the video description, and not commented.
Thank you so much, can't afford a washer right now and this video was a blessing.
Sure, no problem.
Great Video and highly appreciated However, question to be raised my Waching machine when I lift the Lid its stopped but when release the Lid again the Machine does not started and you can't hear any clicking, please advise, B.Regards
With a model number of the machine, I can research it a little further. But these lid switches have been known to go bad in such a way as you explained. Replacing or disabling it may solve the problem.
Will this work for the older style that’s located in the center of the body ?
As long as the machine doesn't have any lights or a "play button" on the control panel, it should work.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! You are a lifesaver!
You're welcome.
I'm so please with your video. Thank you for helping me fix my machine, greatly appeciated!
You're welcome.
Can you recommend a video that shows taking that panel off, so we can get to the USELESS lid lock? THANKS 🙏🏼
If your machine has a lid LOCK that actually locks the lid shut, you're out of luck, there's no defeating it. You have to buy the expensive parts and replace them.
@@jaykay18 Oh GREAT! Aren’t I lucky to buy a useless washing machine? I honestly don’t think it’s a “Safety Issue” as much as Corporate Greed… a way for Whirlpool, Maytag Et.al. to make sure we replace units frequently. This NEW (used 5 times) washer constantly makes loads so uneven, it’s going to kill the whole motor assembly.
This washer always redistributes even SMALL loads, so the machine DANCES ALL OVER THE FLOOR no matter how small or how many times I stop it to make the load even!
I’m disgusted w all of them.
But thanks a lot; at least I know.
Now I’m just gonna wash my clothes the Old Fashioned way….WITH AN OLD WOODEN WASHBOARD.
@@denirn8725 I fully agree with you on that, they're junk. Last good washer Whirlpool made rolled off the line in 2009. So, the trick is to buy a USED machine, 2009 or older, that doesn't have the lid lock. Those are called DIRECT DRIVE machines. There's no belt, no dinky motor, no sub-par wash action. It's an old-school washer that has one job to do and does it better than anything else out there. No lock, it won't really go off balance because it has an actual suspension system. It has a tub brake to prevent he tub from turning while it agitates, because that negates the effect of the agitation. It's a direct-drive machine with no belt and it has an actual transmission to do the hard work. Just like the kind we used to have, or your parents or grandparents may have had. They are out there.
If you're worried about the machine breaking down, don't. They're very easy to service, I have several repair videos on different things that can go bad. And of course there are other TH-cam channels to show you how to fix stuff. Parts are inexpensive and plentiful. Those machines run for a good 20 years without much in the way of any trouble. I have 2 machines, and I will never get rid of them or replace them with any other kind of washer. They were some of the best ever, ever made.
@@jaykay18 You guys are wonderful! You know so much about machines like washers etc. & can fix almost anything. Reminds me of Mike Rowe’s program, telling young kids, they DON’T NEED A $300K University Education to succeed & be fulfilled. They spend 4 years on Useless Knowledge they’ll never use & NEVER get the job of their “Dreams”.
I thank God & personally thank every genius tradesman I can every time I meet one. They’re the amazing people who keep our good lives GOOD in this country.
Oh & you’re right! I did think about an old refurbished washer. In my vacation house I have a 27 y/o Kenmore that’s perfect. My Granny bought it right before she died. And I bought the house without everything in it. That old Kenmore has never failed. I keep all parts I can get to clean & lubricated. AND the only lock on it, is on the final spin cycle. It stops spinning BUT you still can always open the lid.
It’s gonna be a nice “USED” IN GOOD SHAPE WASHER when this piece of junk dies…. Probably next year when it’s 2 years old. 😆
THANKS AGAIN it’s refreshing to know I’m not just the only complainer about this technology.
@@denirn8725 You are too kind! For me, I went to college, got my useless knowledge, did all that. My actual knowledge was hands-on. I was just naturally curious. I wasn't afraid to take things apart to see how they worked. I'm a computer technician by trade, as such my mechanical skills are lagging behind but I can get the job done. Mike Rowe is absolutely right. If you're willing to put your blood, sweat, and tears into stuff, it can get done. Nowadays with the advent of the Internet and TH-cam, we have instructionals and instructional videos. That makes a lot of jobs very simple these days, if only people can follow directions (they usually can't).
Tradesmen are great people, until it comes time for the bill. I once had a plumber in to change some gaskets and a valve on my boiler, he quoted me $625. I bought the parts myself and saved $600. So they usually charge too much. There are, however, some jobs that are just out of my league, and I have to pay what they ask. Finding an honest tradesman who would charge a reasonable price is one the hardest things to do.
Your granny's washer is the type just like this one in this video. And yes, the content of this video applies, you can disable that lid switch so it will stay running even with the lid open, if you want it to. On my own machines, I added that option, and put in a switch so I can enable the lid switch function again if I wanted. I also like a warm rinse, so once again, I added that option via a switch.
Regarding your junker, what you can do, though may be in the way/inconvenient, is to remove the latch from the lid of the washer, the top part. Then you stick that down into where it normally would mate up and leave it there. Might even duct tape it in place and call it good. All of the other problems will still be there, but there won't be any waiting for the machine to stop, provided you don't mind going for a spin yourself. Any other questions, I'm always here.
Great and very helpful video. I do have a question, what if I don’t have the little green piece you put on the end of the wires? Is it something else you can use?
You can solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing, but that requires skill. Do not substitute, the full current of the machine is passing through these wires. If they short out you're going to have a very big problem. You need wire nuts. Home improvement stores sell them.
Hey, did you get the answer to that question? I'm wondering if I can just use electrical tape
Jay you would be proud of me, I read the description and determine that this wouldn't work for my washer :) I can't speak for the other people though.
Thank you Chris! I'm only sorry that you can't use this trick on your washer. But I would suggest, if it's too costly to fix, that you find a good used appliance shop and buy an older washer. Chances are very good you will have it for 30 years or more without a problem. And if you find a machine like the one I showed in this video, I have several repair videos on it for common problems, that are super-inexpensive to fix.
Hi Jay. I took apart my washer and instead of grey white and green I have blue white and red. I would appreciate if you helped me out to figure out which two to splice. Thanx
There is more to a video than just the video. There's the description. OFTENTIMES, THE DESCRIPTION WILL CONTAIN VITAL INFORMATION THAT WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE VIDEO. *ALWAYS* READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION!!!!!!!!!!!
@@jaykay18 I cut the blue and white wires, left the red wire as is,washer is workin perfectly once again. I won't thank you for your reply, I will thank you very much for your video. Have a great one, Jay.
@@jesercueva did you put the blue and white wire together
My washer dont spin but you can hear motor if I do this will it fix it.
No.
Would you happen to know which to cut and splice on a 3 wire ? I got red white and blue.
No, but I definitely know you don;t read video descriptions. I don't write them for my health, you should read them for yours.
How do you get the damn top open! I can’t get the top to flip open so I can get at those wires
Some models have screws at the bottom of the control panel. Some models have screws behind the machine. Some have no screws, and you use a putty knife to pop the clips underneath.
Bypassed correctly
Can I connect the other two that are connected to switch to remove switch completely?
You can replace the switch, that's the proper fix.
Jay I used this trick today to fix a Kenmore washer that would not complete the cycles. I also replaced the timer as only one cycle worked.
Great to hear!
This video is very helpful. I think it’s pointing me in the right direction. My model is a whirlpool WTW4800BQ0. my lid lock has four wires coming from the control board. Red white blue and yellow. Any idea how I could bypass this lid lock on my model?
Yes, there are two things you can do:
1. Throw out the machine. OR
2. Buy the parts that you need to fix it.
That's it. There's no fooling a machine like that with a lid lock, if it's broken, there's no way to bypass it. A machine like I showed has no computers in it, it's strict point-to-point wiring like wall outlets in your house.
@@jaykay18 I appreciate the prompt reply. They have the entire lid lock mechanism for $50 was just trying to see if I could avoid it. Thanks again!
@@HugoStiglitz609 No problem, best of luck in your repair.
Will this defeat the lid lock error? I'm not able to run now because if a kid lock problem and hope this will fix that problem.
This video does not depict, nor talk about a lid lock. If you have a machine with a lid lock, the best thing to do is to take it out to the curb since the washing action is extremely poor (they changed to a belt-driven design with an indexing tub, which is just about useless). There is absolutely no workaround or trick that you can do to get around this problem you have. REAL washing machines don't have this malarkey. The only way you can fix yours is to buy all the parts it requires and replace them, only to waste your money when the next thing breaks.
Hey jaykay. Will this work on a whirlpool WTW5000DW1?
mine has the same console as the one in the video, but no agitator.
Thanks and great video!
Darn. I just saw my model number on your junk list. Shoot. I was trying to save some cash these days.
OK, you figured it out. Junk the washer, buy one of these old school ones used, with the agitator, and never worry about laundry again. If it has a button on it to start the wash, that's the bad ones. The old school mechanical timer, the kind mom or grandma used to have.
@@kickasbutterfly READ THE DESCRIPTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Someone tried the same on my current used washer and those wires just caught fire. What would cause that
Probably the wrong wires were connected, live was shorted to neutral or ground. That creates a dead short across the wire.
@jaykay18 looks like they did the same wires and just used electrical tape. Got loose and started arcing maybe? Redid the connection and will see what happens🤞
@@brettc1981 Yeah electrical tape isn't going to cut it. You're putting the full current of the motor through those wires, it needs a solid connection. At the very least, wire nuts, better would be solder and heat shrink.
Boom you did it, and i repeated your process on mine and it works. Thanks
You're welcome.
Hey Jay, great video! My washer stopped draining/spinning. Inspected the switch and it was for sure bad. The connector and switch had melted together. Is this a common problem? What would cause them to melt together like that?
I have seen that happen before. Generally, a bad connection, corroded metal contacts, or moisture can cause that. A bad connection causes heat, heat causes plastic to melt.
Do you have any suggestions on a good replacement washer?
Something non-HE. Yes, an old-school, used washer, like one your mother or grandmother used to have. It'll run for years and years and years, and your clothes will be cleaner than you ever thought was possible.
Thank you. That’s exactly what I’ll do.
@@joevara2600 Excellent idea, you will be pleased at the end result!
Does this work on a whirlpool chrome shadow washer
The only thing that will fix that machine is the garbage dump.
@@jaykay18 dang that is not what I wanted to hear. Lol. Our lid lock decided to die tonight and then my husband broke out the whole housing case beating it up so I was hoping the wire trick would solve the prob
Hopefully you will see this and respond, will this work for model wtw4616fw2
Your washer is made by Playskool. To the curb it goes.
Thanks! I replaced this switch a few years ago and it started to go again. Now I don't have to worry about it.
Sure, no problem!
Does it matter that my three colors are not the same as the three colors as urs? Red yellow purple
It only proves that you didn't read the description.
What isn't it a good thing I went back and re-read😮 so do you have any updated versions on how to do it with this type GE
@@THD66-24 The title says WHIRLPOOL, not GE.
Sir i have a whirlpool top load commercial washing machine, i have 4 wires red,blue, yellow, white, which one should i top to bypass?
Why don't you "just wanderer" over to the video description first. I don't write those video descriptions for my health, you should read them for yours.
The wires connecting the switch in my machine are red, white and blue. 🤔 which one is the ground?
The video description.
I opened the panel and found this is already done. My washer won’t spin during a cycle but will when I turn the dial to spin and start it. Any suggestions?
I first need to make sure that the machine you have does NOT have a lid lock. If it does, you're out of luck. If it doesn't, that's an odd problem. I would first listen to the timer. It's a motor-driven electromechanical timer and has a small and quiet clock motor inside. You may have to stick your ear on it, but you should heard it run. If it doesn't, I have seen them stall mid-cycle, in which case you'd need a new timer. Without a model number of the machine, that's the best I can offer.
My lid switch connector melted. I tried to bypass just as you showed in the video, but it did not do anything. I checked the wires for connectivity, and there is none. Do you have any suggestions?
Please give me the model number for your machine so I can look up the schematic and help you further.
Hey man. I have a Whirlpool LSR8010PQ0 and the middle contact of the switch melted. I tried your method and the washer won't run, after about 60 seconds of waiting for it to do anything I smelled something melting so I unplugged the washer. The two wires felt warm to the touch but not hot enough to melt.
It's possible you have a bad motor, or bad capacitor. That's causing the excess current condition.
I ended up cutting all 3 👎🏽 can it still work if crimp the ground too?
You can leave the ground disconnected, or reconnect it to the chassis for safety, but it should be grounded through the case screws.
jaykay18 I left it bare should I put tape on it ? There’s no way to ground it unless I drill a whole in the frame
@@garygonzales1568 Yeah just tape it up good and you'll be fine.
My wires are brown, white and black, also a whirlpool top loader machine... I connected the brown and black together... that makes the machine be able to rinse and spin... but I have to revert them to normal if I want the machine to go through a wash cycle... when the wash cycle goes to the rinse and spin part I have to jump the wires again (brown and black) /// Is there a way to just not have to be moving wires around? The part arrives 3 weeks from now, and I have no kids, it is really annoying having to do every time I want to complete the wash cycle.
Without a model number, it's very hard to tell.
When the wires are cut and splice together, what size is the screw thingy?
The "screw thingy" is called a wire nut. You use the wire nut size appropriate to the gauge wire you're dealing with. Or, in "screw thingy" terms, whichever one fits.
do you have to use a wire nut or can you just use electrical tape if that’s all i got
Does A mid 2000's Kenmore Elite Direct Drive use the same wire arrangement/ switch?
It should.
@@jaykay18 Okay thank you!
@@DylBuilder1 Best of luck.
Thank you for this video; I tried shorting the black and white leaving the green intact but it still doesn't work. It is a whirlpool washer and dryer combo; do you have any recommendations? Many thanks. *I saw your additional humiliation clause; I have traced the latch assembly wires from the panels onwards; at this point I just want to drain the tub and get a new machine. Is there any other way to drain the washer than the 'hose' in the bottom? Many thanks.
You mentioned "latch assembly". If this machine you have will latch the lid closed while washing or spinning, you're completely out of luck.
My washers lock has decided to stay locked and wont budge, will this help fix it?
You've tried unplugging it?
jaykay18 yes i have, ive looked it over and tried figuring out what else to do but its still broke
If it stays locked when unplugged then something is mechanically broken. You're going to have to fix the actual issue.
I want to try this for my washer but I don’t have wire strippers or the little cover for the wires . Would I just be able to use electrical tape to cover the exposed wires ?
For a test, you're better off unplugging the connector and probing that with a short piece of 14 gauge wire. If you don't have any wire, you can use 2 paper clips together in tandem, bent into shape--FOR NO MORE THAN A SECOND, they cannot carry the current needed and will get hot! Don't even THINK about touching the exposed stuff, and keep it away from the machine, in other words, hold the wire behind the connector in the air. Get some wire nuts, you can get them at a hardware store for a couple bucks. No strippers, a pocket knife can work in a pinch but it'll be a sloppy job. Strippers are a couple of bucks as well.
I have that same question right now
What model of Whirlpool is this?
I don't know, I don't own it. I do know it's a lower model (less features) compared to the WTW5300VW.
@jaykay18 you RoCk my friend. I can't thank you enough for this. This happens to be my second repair ever on a washer and I'm soooo stoked to do it with your instructions! Mahalo nui loa!
You're very welcome!
Will this work on the commercial coin op whirlpool
That depends on how old the machine is.
Washer will drain but won't spin. Is that indicative of a faulty lid switch? Oddly, it spun fine prior to repairing the pressure hose attached to water level setting (was overflowing). Reconnect hose, no spin; unhook hose, overflows but spins fine. What's the interrelation between the two? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I need to first know what kind of washer this is. A lot of people think they have a washer similar to what I showed in this video, but theirs is a newer machine, which is a totally different ball of wax. If you can give me the model number of the machine I can help you further.
@@jaykay18 It's a Whirlpool, older model; numbers 3357978 stamped on back. Not sure if that's the model # or not. I since disconnected/bypassed lid switch and same issue occurs. When in spin mode I can spin drum by hand and it engages kind of randomly (sometimes easier than others); clutch maybe??. And thx for the prompt response.
@@indoctrinationamericasgrea3543 Ha, that's the part number for the back cabinet panel itself!
All right, if this is a direct-drive unit like this, and does NOT have a lid lock, Play button, LEDs or other indicator lights on the panel, the first thing to check is agitation. If the unit WILL agitate, then the motor coupler is OK. If not, then the motor coupler needs to be replaced.
If the motor coupler is OK, note that the washers have a neutral drain. So after agitating, they will stop, start up again and run the motor, but the only thing that will happen is it will drain just sitting there. That goes for about 2 minutes. After that, it will shut off for a moment, start back up, and should spin. If it's not spinning, then check the clutch. You'll need to remove the cabinet and look on top of the transmission while it's put into spin. The clutch should spin. If it doesn't, the transmission is bad. If it does, the drive block, or brake and drive tube are bad.
@@jaykay18 Thanks again. Won't have time today to pull it back apart, but Ill let you know what happens tomorrow.
However, before I do, some say it won't agitate if clutch is bad (and it does); but it spins and pumps fine once engaged (which a faulty transmission won't do (??)); unless I'm mistaken; which is very possible. Consequently leaving me a bit confused... . Thanks again!
@@indoctrinationamericasgrea3543 Drive block, or brake and drive tube are culprits. Let me know what you find out.
What about a Maytag with 4 wires ?
What about reading the video description?
my washer locked light stopped lit up and sensing light keep flashing. what shall i do?
Throw it out, it's not worth fixing.
@@jaykay18 Are you sure ? I have just bought it from marketplace.
@@minalmasud381 If the machine is used, see if the original owners will take it back and give you your money back. If it was brand new, the place you bought it from will have to fix it.
sure I talk to that person to refund my money. thanks to male sure its not fixable and I shouldn't waste my time and effort.
@@minalmasud381 You're welcome.
Thanks for the info because slamming the lid was working but stopped now I don’t have to worry about that situation 💙
You're welcome.
Hi great video, my question is that my machine lid lock has 4 wires, red, blue, yellow and white. What 2 wires I connect together and what do I need to do with the other two wires? If you could help, it’ll be greatly appreciated! Thanks
My help is for you to read the description. ALWAYS READ THE DESCRIPTION, ON EVERY VIDEO YOU WATCH, IT HELPS PREVENT STUPID QUESTIONS THAT HAVE ALREADY BEEN ANSWERED.
@@jaykay18 wow that was really rude
@@markusray319 And you're another one who doesn't read the description, where you have been duly warned.
lol i just read the bottom of your description - 😂
The one wire in the connector to my lid switch burned the plastic on the connector and lid switch. It oddly still works but I was hoping to replace the wires and lid switch but I'm having trouble finding replacements, mainly for the wires. Is this a safe alternative to replacing them?
Replacement parts for these machines are cheap and plentiful. Finding the actual wire connector, that's a different story.
What is depicted in this video is at your own risk.
Do you know why the lid switch is overload and heating, the tree wires plug can't be removed? I have cut and bypass the lid swich, this trouble can be fix with the lid switch replace?
Probably a bad connection in the connector to the switch. Sometimes water can get in there and cause corrosion, which will make a bad connection. Bad connections can overheat. You can try replacing the switch, but if it happens again, you'll need to replace the switch and the connector on the wire.
So the gray and the white fused together. When the machine finish the whole washing cycle and I lift the door will it shut off the red light (the one that remains on at the end indicating that it's done)?
Sounds to me like you have a lid lock on your machine. If so, this won't work.
@@jaykay18 Yes, the door won't open unless I press the stop button on the panel.
I seen this video on the washer lid lock bypass and I’m trying to do it myself on a Whirlpool mode, i ran into an issue though, the three wires you have are green white and black and the three that I have are dark blue white and red I’m not sure which ones to put together and cap off. I’m assuming dark blue and red are pos and neg and white is ground or neutral ?
Read the video description.
Does this work on Sharp Washing Machine??
The title says Whirlpool. I'd suggest you source a wiring diagram for your model and see which wires need to be cut and spliced, if it can be done at all.
Thanks for letting me at least finish the load without bailing water. This will buy us some time on these old appliances. Now the wife gets to pick out a new washer and dryer. :-)
Make that smiley face a frown face--there are NO washing machines on the market, at any price, that can do as good of a job as what you have. Fix what you have at any price, believe me, you'll end up being really sorry if you replace it. Not to mention, it won't last anywhere near as long as this machine.
I have two of these "direct drive" Whirlpool machines, one is 11 years old and the other is 26 years old. I've replaced ONE part on the older one, a $6 part called the agitator dogs, and I have a video on how to change that. Also I have replaced the timer on this machine in this video, and a motor coupler on another one. They're easy to work on, parts are cheap and plentiful. Trust me. If you don't want to and pick out a new set, tell me how bad it is.
Why would you need to get a new set? The newer they are...the worse they are.
I couldn't tell what Washer exactly this was, but would this work on a Whirlpool WTW5550X Washer? The lid lock mechanism in my washer is busted internally. Would this able me to actually do laundry?
Sorry, you're S.O.L. Lid lock washers have sensors that need to work to satisfy the computer. Without all of that safety equipment in place, it's not going to wash. You have to replace the broken parts, then you should be all right.
How we have a whirlpool wtw 4915 ew will this work on ours thank you for your help great video
Thanks, but no, it won't work. You have a Playskool washer, you have to fix what's wrong, or just replace it with an old school one from a used appliance shop.
Thank you JK for your quick response
No problem, wish I had better news.
May be yoi might why the lock light is flashing on my whirlpool top loader washer and won't start or finish the cycle
Problem with the lock. This video won't help you, you have to probably replace the lock assembly and/or latch.
I have a whirlpool ultimate care ii washer model number LSQ9030PQ1.. I did some research and it says to try the lid switch. ( fills up with water, then stops) I bought the new part put it in, still nothing. Can I cut the wires like you did on my machine for it to bypass the lid switch and wash my clothes?
It's pretty rare that a new switch is defective, but not unheard of. Unplug the connector, and make yourself a jumper wire and jump the pins before you go cutting any wires. Best to use a piece of wire like from a piece of Romex, 14 gauge. If you don't have that handy, for a _quick_ test, and I mean *quick*, you can unbend a paper clip. Chances are very good that if it works that paper clip will get VERY hot so be careful.
If it doesn't work still, you could be looking at a bad timer. Try a different cycle, like delicates. You also didn't mention if it drains or if the motor makes any noise at all, I'm assuming it doesn't. If all of that's good, then likely you're looking at a bad motor. Sometimes the capacitor on them goes bad, but you'd hear a hum or something, which again, you didn't mention so I'm assuming not.
Thank You I Hate my washer and now you made it Better
You're welcome.
HI Jay, I have been waiting on a new lid lock assembly for 6 weeks - every week the repair company says "another week". Meanwhile, I'm doing laundry for 12 people - lugging a mountain to the laundromat and back every 3 days. The Whirlpool Model MVWB955FW1 is 3 years old. I asked if the repairman could just override the lid lock mechanism and he said he "will lose the contract with Whirlpool if we do that." So I'm 70 and ready to try to override it using your cut, strip, wire nut and tape" solution. Do you think it will work on my model?
The repairman is right, he CAN'T bypass the lid lock for you. He would probably get fired, and the company he works for would likely lose their contract to repair them.
As for your bypassing it yourself, lesson learned. Your washer is 3 years old and already broken. This trend will continue after it has been repaired.
There's no fooling a modern washer into working, they make it that way so it CAN'T be bypassed. You should have fixed your old machine.
If you're seriously doing laundry for that many people, you should consider either an older direct-drive washer like the one shown here (would need to get it secondhand as they don't make them anymore--and never will again.) Or, your other option is to invest in a Speed Queen Model TC5--and ONLY that model, which you will not find in Home Depot or Lowe's or any other big-box store, you'd have to go to an appliance store. If you invest in such a machine, it will likely outlive you, as would an older Whirlpool.
@@jaykay18 Hi, I did just buy a Speed Queen dryer, with NO bells and whistles. I will take your advice about the TC5 - I hope it has a BIG tub. That's why I bought the Whirlpool. But for the time being, and sorry for asking twice, will your instructions on cutting the wires in this video work for getting my washer to work right now?
@@kirstiewilde5015 While I do have a propensity for speaking with alacrity most times, I also wouldn't deliberately NOT answer your question. I suppose I will have to repeat myself.
There's no fooling a computer-controlled machine like you have. Cutting and splicing wires on that would likely fry the computer circuit boards, making the repair cost more than you paid for the machine in the first place. It's not worth it's weight in scrap either, and never was High Efficiency. It took longer to wash the clothes than ever before. It was garbage before it left the showroom floor.
Any of the washers I had recommended have a center agitator, like the old school washers did. They have the same size tub as the old washers did. They do a good job, and they do it FAST and EFFICIENTLY, in one shot.
Unfortunately, you were duped into the marketing hype like most consumers. Now you're paying the price. You're thoroughly screwed. Go out and hunt down what you had, you never know what you have until you lose it. Once you see how fast a REAL washing machine can do the laundry, you'll see that what you have is garbage.
@@jaykay18 Thank you, Jay. Amazingly quick and kind advice. Is there an old school front-load that you recommend (like the big ones at the laundromat I see when I'm lugging my mountain of laundry there twice a week)? I have to wash a lot of blankets and quilts and the top load with agitator can't do them.
@@kirstiewilde5015 They never made a decent front loading washer in this country, except for ones back in maybe the 1950s and 1960s. But they were rare. You'd be surprised what you can fit in a top loader with an agitator. I do Queen size blankets, sheets, and comforters in mine. King size is a problem.
Hello after 6 years 😂 would this work if my whirlpool washing machine dosnt drain some times? Hope ican get an answer
If I can get a model number of the machine, I can look it up.
Ok thank you so much will send it shortly
model 3xwtw5705sw0 doesn't drain all water and some times out of nowhere it just drains it all.
I think it's the same model you have in this video as the lid switch looks the same and in exact location
@@ytubeworld. Yes, the innards are the same. If it's not draining, then it wouldn't be agitating either, because the lid switch controls the entire washer on this style unit. If the machine will fill and agitate but not drain, chances are the drain pump is bad and you will need to replace that. There are many videos out there on how to do it, it's very easy. That's if the motor runs. If it won't run at all when it's supposed to drain or spin, it is possible the motor itself has gone bad.
Have a GE washer that refused to spin/drain and is working after watching this video, thanks! Question, ended up clipping all three by mistake and the green (assuming it's the ground) is hanging freely. Should this wire be grounded somehow? Not sure what to do.
Generally, green is ground. You can possibly reconnect it from where you clipped it off. If you can't because it was clipped too close, lesson learned for next time--always leave a little slack. Quite honestly, since the machine is otherwise working, it should be fine. The top has metal-to-metal contact somewhere else so it will remain grounded.
Great Video thanks!....By the way, her fire alarm battery is low.. I heard the chirp
Yeah, no kidding. It was driving me nuts when I was there! Chances are good that battery went dead completely and hasn't been replaced.
@@jaykay18 they probably though it was a cricket
Probably not far from the truth.
What if the wires are red white and blue?
That's a Playskool washer with a lid lock and a belt drive. Everything's computer controlled, and without that lid lock and switch working properly, the washer wants to be brought to the curb so it can be recycled into more Playskool junk, that will break in short order.
You need to fix the actual problem, and that means parts, maybe even sensors or circuit boards.
Thanks A lot! I tried the trick and it worked great.... until for some reason whatever burned out the Lid switch caused the wires to heat up and almost melt... Everyone know why or have any suggestions?
The full motor current goes through those wires. If you have a bad connection anywhere, that's a source of resistance and therefore heat. If your motor has a bad capacitor, it can pull excessive current and cause overheated wires. It's time to find the root cause of the problem instead of putting bandaids on it.
@@jaykay18 Thanks a lot. I'm currently doing missionary work in a 3rd world country so parts are not easy to get and a tech that can fix this is even harder to find. But I thought there was a short somewhere because when I lifted the control panel I heard the machine stop and start. Thanks again for your help! I'll see what I can do.
@@marcs7847 Good--that's a definite clue where the problem lies. If Amazon delivers where you are, parts are easy to get.