I built a 355 over 20 years ago and put a set of pro top line’s version of the vortec head on it. They worked very well. I also used Childs and Alberts gapless rings, which you can’t get anymore. That engine is still roasting tires for the guy I sold it to.
I got a set of the aluminum vortec speedmaster heads, got em bare and put American made valves, springs and screw in studs and the difference in the truck is night and day from the 882 stock heads
The easy way to get clearance up to .550 lift was to use Comp 26918 springs or the PAC equivalent (1218 I think), 795 10* retainers and 614 locks which are 10* +.050 locks. Install height is around 1.75-1.77 and there's enough spring pressure for a decent HR cam. This method has been done a million times but that kind of spring pressure does require the studs to at least be pinned.
Eric, back years ago, like I’m the early 90s when I started actually rebuilding engines, & years before I worked @ the race engine shop, I used to stack some heavy washers on the studs & then grab a good 1/2in air gun & just tighten the bolt against the washers! It used to pull them right out 🙄🙄🙄🙄! I’ve had those press in studs pull out on a RV type camshaft before! Actually even doing all the work yourself! Which you know you could spend hours on! Before you even get to the valve job, it seemed that we could buy decent aftermarket heads with all decent parts in them for not much more money 🙄🙄🙄🙄! It got to the point that unless it was a restoration job! We would just save all the hours of making them decent & replace the heads with Darts, or World products ones! My boss used to buy them by the pallet & he knew Dick Maskin & Billy Mitchell so we would get a really good deal on them! Never mind you should have seen the customers light up 😍😍😍😍 when they found out that their stockish type rebuild had a new rotating assembly & brand new heads! At that point they were so happy that they didn’t just buy a Targetmaster 350 & stick a cam in it 😂😂😂😂! Most went out as 465hp/475ftlbs 383s, if they weren’t superbrokedicks & actually had us put a decent carb, intake, headers & oil pan on them! The guys that wanted everything original! Heads included, got what they got because manifolds sucked & the stock 2bbl Rochester carbs were tiny 🙄🙄🙄🙄! But even when we had to do it that way the boss would get sneaky with the ports, compression & camshafts to make sure they made around 1hp per cube, which sounds poor! But they were way more powerful than when the engine was factory 👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻! My bosses shop was well known for making power & building engines that would last decades 😂😂😂😂! Those old 306s 331s 355s 383s that were done with the good bolt ons, are still out, most getting the shit kicked out of them w a minimum of a 150 shot or even 2/150 shots & still going after well over 20 years 😂😂😂😂! NOBULLSHIT 💩💩💩💩💩🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪! That’s the main thing my boss would try to pound into morons heads 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Build the shortblock right, with good machining & parts & have at least 2 different engines out of the one 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! Because when they finally bought a good set of aluminum heads, bigger camshafts, & bla bla bla, they got another 150hp or more than what we originally dynoed them at 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! So they only needed 1 kit instead of 2! When they finally give up, it’s usually the block getting split in half with those guys who just keep getting greedy with the nitrous & spray 2 kits at over 175ea 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Have a good rest of your week 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻!
Hey Eric. I was thinking about your 403ci engine. Maybe the ports were too small for the cam increase. If you're limited on port size and engine displacement in a racing class a common thing is to oversize the cam and it will act just like you observed with the 403. Small CI, small port, big duration cam, means higher peak power and a drop in torque.
I have a set of vortec heads and they've worked really well for me I'm not using them currently but I run them for a while they have 007B numbers with screw in studs and bronze guides
The vortec heads that have the hardened seat inserts are from Hd trucks. If you get a 5.7l C/K3500 they will have hardened seats. The really big issue i have heard is they have a 90° final taper on the insert. The only way to fix it is to go to a bigger valve so you can have a clean up the angles on the valve job.
Another thing to when you mention bronze guide vs cast I used to work at a machine shop and my old co worker had EQ heads and he had the valves sticking with the bronze but not the cast. So I thought that was interesting when you said the cast ones were sticking but good think to know
Eric, you could weld and then grind inthe number castings to look like the factory numbers. And grind of casting markings. And most tech guys then would never know.if course you would have ti sandblast and make them look factory.
Hey Eric what do u think about aluminum freedom patriots heads 202/160 188cc 64 cc champers got them for $300 look like new wanting to port them is it worth doing Thanks for the content man
Nice video on different vortec head and does the aftermarket heads are thicker than the stock ones I know those stock vortec heads are known to crack and and does the aftermarket ones prevent the cracking if they are thicker
They are much thicker or at least they seem to be I run these on demolition derby engines and I have yet to crack one. I've ran several sets 20 plus minutes with no water in the engine whatsoever multi-layer steelhead gaskets and ARP head bolts. If I do crack a set I'll retract the statement lol
what is a good cheap bare head for a foundation to port on, dart iron eagle? GM scoggin dickey new casting 906 heads? jegs, dart or promaxx? i really really love the AFR competition cut 180cc, its not listed anymore although comp cut is an option. Someone ran them on their 2nd gen stock chassis and ran mid to high tens Could i port some heads to be as efficient as those at low lifts? i love low lift numbers and high efficiencies. i found some IMCA heads made by EQ they have the bath tub chambers 740 for the pair on evil bay. Its only that those heads are meant for stock class racing and not all out efficiency, i mean it looks as bad as a stock 882 chamber bet it still makes power though somehow, probably after changing them. oh well maybe i find somehting better. yup replacement for 882, and 624 heads. Well i had 882 on the 355 and no thanks.
Studs? I have removed studs and never had issues. I have machined and tapped screw in studs. Not very succesfull! They were not square with each other. Subsequently just paid to have it done. Pinned studs? The boss can and will break, I have seen that a couple of times. Though have seen the Boss break with a big cam and springs as well. I have seen screw in studs break as well. Use ARP, not cheapies as they will fail
If I knew what I know now I would of not did vortecs! Their Mexican castings from the researched are down 20+ cfm.. What a waste of money! Cheap set of Chinese aluminum heads flow better and lighter than cast iron boat anchors!
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Good info once again. Thanks for putting the time in
I built a 355 over 20 years ago and put a set of pro top line’s version of the vortec head on it. They worked very well. I also used Childs and Alberts gapless rings, which you can’t get anymore. That engine is still roasting tires for the guy I sold it to.
isn’t this an Australian company? I think no matter how good they are, Shipping to the USA/Northeast would be cost prohibitive for me.
I got a set of the aluminum vortec speedmaster heads, got em bare and put American made valves, springs and screw in studs and the difference in the truck is night and day from the 882 stock heads
The easy way to get clearance up to .550 lift was to use Comp 26918 springs or the PAC equivalent (1218 I think), 795 10* retainers and 614 locks which are 10* +.050 locks. Install height is around 1.75-1.77 and there's enough spring pressure for a decent HR cam. This method has been done a million times but that kind of spring pressure does require the studs to at least be pinned.
Eric, back years ago, like I’m the early 90s when I started actually rebuilding engines, & years before I worked @ the race engine shop, I used to stack some heavy washers on the studs & then grab a good 1/2in air gun & just tighten the bolt against the washers! It used to pull them right out 🙄🙄🙄🙄! I’ve had those press in studs pull out on a RV type camshaft before! Actually even doing all the work yourself! Which you know you could spend hours on! Before you even get to the valve job, it seemed that we could buy decent aftermarket heads with all decent parts in them for not much more money 🙄🙄🙄🙄! It got to the point that unless it was a restoration job! We would just save all the hours of making them decent & replace the heads with Darts, or World products ones! My boss used to buy them by the pallet & he knew Dick Maskin & Billy Mitchell so we would get a really good deal on them! Never mind you should have seen the customers light up 😍😍😍😍 when they found out that their stockish type rebuild had a new rotating assembly & brand new heads! At that point they were so happy that they didn’t just buy a Targetmaster 350 & stick a cam in it 😂😂😂😂! Most went out as 465hp/475ftlbs 383s, if they weren’t superbrokedicks & actually had us put a decent carb, intake, headers & oil pan on them! The guys that wanted everything original! Heads included, got what they got because manifolds sucked & the stock 2bbl Rochester carbs were tiny 🙄🙄🙄🙄! But even when we had to do it that way the boss would get sneaky with the ports, compression & camshafts to make sure they made around 1hp per cube, which sounds poor! But they were way more powerful than when the engine was factory 👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻! My bosses shop was well known for making power & building engines that would last decades 😂😂😂😂! Those old 306s 331s 355s 383s that were done with the good bolt ons, are still out, most getting the shit kicked out of them w a minimum of a 150 shot or even 2/150 shots & still going after well over 20 years 😂😂😂😂! NOBULLSHIT 💩💩💩💩💩🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪! That’s the main thing my boss would try to pound into morons heads 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Build the shortblock right, with good machining & parts & have at least 2 different engines out of the one 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! Because when they finally bought a good set of aluminum heads, bigger camshafts, & bla bla bla, they got another 150hp or more than what we originally dynoed them at 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻! So they only needed 1 kit instead of 2! When they finally give up, it’s usually the block getting split in half with those guys who just keep getting greedy with the nitrous & spray 2 kits at over 175ea 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Have a good rest of your week 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻!
Good ole ProComp / Speed Master.
Hey Eric. I was thinking about your 403ci engine. Maybe the ports were too small for the cam increase. If you're limited on port size and engine displacement in a racing class a common thing is to oversize the cam and it will act just like you observed with the 403. Small CI, small port, big duration cam, means higher peak power and a drop in torque.
This is some great content for the vortec guys. Still good stuff
I have a set of vortec heads and they've worked really well for me I'm not using them currently but I run them for a while they have 007B numbers with screw in studs and bronze guides
The vortec heads that have the hardened seat inserts are from Hd trucks. If you get a 5.7l C/K3500 they will have hardened seats. The really big issue i have heard is they have a 90° final taper on the insert. The only way to fix it is to go to a bigger valve so you can have a clean up the angles on the valve job.
Another thing to when you mention bronze guide vs cast I used to work at a machine shop and my old co worker had EQ heads and he had the valves sticking with the bronze but not the cast. So I thought that was interesting when you said the cast ones were sticking but good think to know
I like info on cast iron heads. It's more in my league
Eric, you could weld and then grind inthe number castings to look like the factory numbers. And grind of casting markings. And most tech guys then would never know.if course you would have ti sandblast and make them look factory.
Hey Eric what do u think about aluminum freedom patriots heads 202/160 188cc 64 cc champers got them for $300 look like new wanting to port them is it worth doing Thanks for the content man
If you were to do a simple bowl/seat blend, rough cast removal, guide contour and proper valve job, how well would these heads flow do you think ?
have you tested afr vortec heads
292 from vortecs is serious accomplishment I would I could pull that off or make for a great sleeper.
Nice video on different vortec head and does the aftermarket heads are thicker than the stock ones I know those stock vortec heads are known to crack and and does the aftermarket ones prevent the cracking if they are thicker
They are much thicker or at least they seem to be I run these on demolition derby engines and I have yet to crack one. I've ran several sets 20 plus minutes with no water in the engine whatsoever multi-layer steelhead gaskets and ARP head bolts. If I do crack a set I'll retract the statement lol
@@timothyesmond7358 got it thank you
Good stuff!
Thanks Eric!
You're redaction of the names needs to be included in the "baseline title" block as the name is also listed there and quite viewable.
Yep I missed that. These are almost 10years old so I don’t think it’s a huge deal.
I'm running a set of EQ heads on my Vortec with 2.02 and 1.6 valves. I'm also running a whipple super charger. Any benefit to porting these heads?
How do u like the eq vortec heads. I am about to purchase some aftermarket heads. Do u get the fully assembled with the rockers and springs?
Have you had any experience with Promaxx Vortec heads
I have, I like em! I`ve dynoed the motors I put em on and the guys at the dyno were surprised as well myself.
what is a good cheap bare head for a foundation to port on, dart iron eagle? GM scoggin dickey new casting 906 heads? jegs, dart or promaxx? i really really love the AFR competition cut 180cc, its not listed anymore although comp cut is an option. Someone ran them on their 2nd gen stock chassis and ran mid to high tens Could i port some heads to be as efficient as those at low lifts? i love low lift numbers and high efficiencies. i found some IMCA heads made by EQ they have the bath tub chambers 740 for the pair on evil bay. Its only that those heads are meant for stock class racing and not all out efficiency, i mean it looks as bad as a stock 882 chamber bet it still makes power though somehow, probably after changing them. oh well maybe i find somehting better. yup replacement for 882, and 624 heads. Well i had 882 on the 355 and no thanks.
@port nut right on :o)
Thank you!
Right on
Thanks
Studs? I have removed studs and never had issues. I have machined and tapped screw in studs. Not very succesfull! They were not square with each other. Subsequently just paid to have it done. Pinned studs? The boss can and will break, I have seen that a couple of times. Though have seen the Boss break with a big cam and springs as well.
I have seen screw in studs break as well. Use ARP, not cheapies as they will fail
we're famous cylinder head block factory in China 🙂
Do you mean you copy American products or you actually design your own stuff.
Being seedmaster those studs will be soft anyways
If I knew what I know now I would of not did vortecs! Their Mexican castings from the researched are down 20+ cfm.. What a waste of money! Cheap set of Chinese aluminum heads flow better and lighter than cast iron boat anchors!