Amendment: Hello All, The newer and replacement gear sets have done away with marking the inspection numbers on each gear. The inspection numbers on these later units will be stamped on the rear gear/shaft coded as follows: F=front gear, R=rear gear, P= pinion gear
Thank you. It was so helpful watching through your vids. I am an Engineer that used to have all the gear, milling machine, colchester lathe etc, I am now the Chief Engineer for our national health service here in uk and have little opportunity to do the hands on, but I have a boat with the 290DP penta sterndrive and when I priced a new one, I decided I would have a go and rebuild my own. I am starting it tomorrow as just got the leg off the boat this evening. What a fantastic Engineers talk through, I could not have asked for more. I have written all the specs and tolerances that you work to and will, where possible follow your build. So here goes. Thanks again, I have saved the vids for reference as I am sure many guys will have already done. Keep up the great work.
Patience and the tools all ways a plus. I use to enjoy rebuilding munci 4 speeds, but now after 30 + since my last one, think my patience are to far long,,hehe! Bash right around the corner, have a blast, Bear
Not sure why people say it's difficult to rebuild these. The only thing I find hard is finding one place that has everything you need to do it. Don't know if it's because I've rebuilt many vehicle axles, but setting up pinions isn't hard. I have several friends with outdrives and they say I'm the only guy around that will touch them. I myself have talked to a few marine shops close to me and they all said they won't touch them. Funny how as a non-marine mechanic I get swamped fixing them around when boat season really kicks in. Nice video. I was looking for a video with a complete breakdown of a dp-d1 because the one I'm working on currently seems to be missing pieces.
Found a AQ 280 DP in what i think is good shape, clean oil, tiny amount of fuzz and rotates nice. Repowering a old 270 4 cylinder (still runs great, just underpowered) on my 21 trophy. Also in great shape. Did go the new route with a 350 sbc. Pieceing it together now. Got several 280 V-8 ratio drives plus this duoprop. I have both course and fine spline tail stocks. I know the DP has course but can't find the right U-joint. Bearing caps are different sizes. One has inside C-clips the other outside to hold the bearing caps.
Gday Dean, there’s a fair bit involved in rebuilding one of these and I’m guessing the cost for parts would be up there to, really interesting video mate and thanks for sharing, cheers
G'Day Matty, Yeah the parts especially the gears are insanely expensive. This model has been out of production for about 20 years, but there's quite a few still in use. Thanks for the view and comment. 👍 Cheers...ATB...Dean
Thanks for the video mate. If you were re assembling this one for long term use. Would you shim it all as per calculations and then put dye on the gears after to check contact?
@@jflavell888 not a bad idea to do a contact pattern check although it’s a bit more involved because it’s not easy to remove the bearing shaft assembly to check the pattern each time. Leaving the O-ring seals out will make it a little easier, but you’ll still have to fight it a bit. I just trust the shimming calculations and I always check the backlash.
No worries. I’ve got one im hoping to use that has gears in perfect condition. But the bearing carrier has been worn down with a prop. I have another carrier with same C number. Is it fine to swap it across, keeping the original bearing cup / shims from the worn one?
@@jflavell888 if all the numbers match your good to go But most likely you will need to run the calculations. I can send you the work sheet if you email me Dean57ayr@gmail.com
Do they still sell these gears and bearings? I have one of these and she is 30 years old now... this was very interesting to watch. I cant even find a mechanic who will even take this job on.
The bearings and seals are industry standard most bearing suppliers can get them. Gears are only available as NOS or used. Most of the rubber and some small parts are available from Volvo. Most aftermarket bellows are junk, stick to genuine Volvo. Servicing the lube oil is most important. Yeah most shops only want to sell a repower unit. These will last a long time on 4 and 6 cylinder engines with regular maintence.
Hello, great video! I have a question; where is oil circulation pump on DP290, or rather how oil circulates threw out the drive? On SP model in cross section is shown oil circ. pump behind the rear gear but not on DP version. Tnx, keep up the good work! ;)
Hi Oly, yeah I've thought about this one as well. And this is just a total guess; I suspect since there's two side gears rather than just one some centrifugal pumping action is generated by the gears even though they're spinning in opposite directions. Like I noted, that's a total guess. The DPs still use a return oil strainer so there's flow happening somehow. Thanks for commenting and viewing, ATB.....
@@vincas229 yes they are but; you will need to recheck all your shims that interface between the upper and the lower, to maintain the proper clamping and Bearing preloads
@@michaelgarner5081 a dual prop lower will bolt right on, but here’s some things to keep in mind and to watch out for: - the top input shaft, bearing cup will need to be re-shimmed to set the proper preload. The Bearing cup is located in the midsection and is installed with shims behind it. - the 280 upper gear unit is weaker than the 290 - A and newer models. Dual prop will put additional stress on that gear unit. - The DP lower is heavier than the SP, if you tilt motor is weak, it may have trouble raising the unit. - the DP‘s are higher maintenance units due to the extra moving parts. - quite a few people have made this conversion. - the DP do not maneuver as well when reversing
@@michaelgarner5081 if you really need the extra performance or your existing unit is having issues it might be worthwhile. If your SP unit is working well, I would leave it as is just my opinion
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Amendment: Hello All,
The newer and replacement gear sets have done away with marking the inspection numbers on each gear.
The inspection numbers on these later units will be stamped on the rear gear/shaft coded as follows:
F=front gear, R=rear gear, P= pinion gear
Thank you. It was so helpful watching through your vids. I am an Engineer that used to have all the gear, milling machine, colchester lathe etc, I am now the Chief Engineer for our national health service here in uk and have little opportunity to do the hands on, but I have a boat with the 290DP penta sterndrive and when I priced a new one, I decided I would have a go and rebuild my own. I am starting it tomorrow as just got the leg off the boat this evening. What a fantastic Engineers talk through, I could not have asked for more. I have written all the specs and tolerances that you work to and will, where possible follow your build. So here goes. Thanks again, I have saved the vids for reference as I am sure many guys will have already done. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the nice comment,
In most cases they are worth rebuilding...
ATB....Dean
That's indeed very specific. A lot of things to know to get it right.
Thanks Rusty, They are a bit tricky...especially the tools needed.
ATB....Dean
Patience and the tools all ways a plus. I use to enjoy rebuilding munci 4 speeds, but now after 30 + since my last one, think my patience are to far long,,hehe! Bash right around the corner, have a blast, Bear
Hi Dean
A change is as good as a rest, great inspection Dean👍👍
atb
Kev
This was very interesting. It looks like rebuilding these is something to leave to the experts such as you
Not sure why people say it's difficult to rebuild these. The only thing I find hard is finding one place that has everything you need to do it. Don't know if it's because I've rebuilt many vehicle axles, but setting up pinions isn't hard. I have several friends with outdrives and they say I'm the only guy around that will touch them. I myself have talked to a few marine shops close to me and they all said they won't touch them. Funny how as a non-marine mechanic I get swamped fixing them around when boat season really kicks in. Nice video. I was looking for a video with a complete breakdown of a dp-d1 because the one I'm working on currently seems to be missing pieces.
Yep, and having a press and required adapters is key.
Thanks for the nice comment...
Found a AQ 280 DP in what i think is good shape, clean oil, tiny amount of fuzz and rotates nice. Repowering a old 270 4 cylinder (still runs great, just underpowered) on my 21 trophy. Also in great shape. Did go the new route with a 350 sbc. Pieceing it together now. Got several 280 V-8 ratio drives plus this duoprop. I have both course and fine spline tail stocks. I know the DP has course but can't find the right U-joint. Bearing caps are different sizes. One has inside C-clips the other outside to hold the bearing caps.
Sorry missed your comment, was on vacation.
Those U-joint yokes come up on eBay just keep checking I'm fresh out of them also.
What a great project to work on👏👏
Gday Dean, there’s a fair bit involved in rebuilding one of these and I’m guessing the cost for parts would be up there to, really interesting video mate and thanks for sharing, cheers
G'Day Matty, Yeah the parts especially the gears are insanely expensive. This model has been out of production for about 20 years, but there's quite a few still in use.
Thanks for the view and comment. 👍
Cheers...ATB...Dean
Hey buddy ! Thank you so much for this great video ! Gives me hope for rebuilding my own dp drive
Greetings from Denmark
Your welcome !
All the best...
Thanks for the video mate. If you were re assembling this one for long term use. Would you shim it all as per calculations and then put dye on the gears after to check contact?
@@jflavell888 not a bad idea to do a contact pattern check although it’s a bit more involved because it’s not easy to remove the bearing shaft assembly to check the pattern each time. Leaving the O-ring seals out will make it a little easier, but you’ll still have to fight it a bit. I just trust the shimming calculations and I always check the backlash.
No worries. I’ve got one im hoping to use that has gears in perfect condition. But the bearing carrier has been worn down with a prop. I have another carrier with same C number. Is it fine to swap it across, keeping the original bearing cup / shims from the worn one?
@@jflavell888 if all the numbers match your good to go
But most likely you will need to run the calculations.
I can send you the work sheet if you email me
Dean57ayr@gmail.com
Do they still sell these gears and bearings? I have one of these and she is 30 years old now... this was very interesting to watch. I cant even find a mechanic who will even take this job on.
The bearings and seals are industry standard most bearing suppliers can get them.
Gears are only available as NOS or used. Most of the rubber and some small parts are available from Volvo. Most aftermarket bellows are junk, stick to genuine Volvo.
Servicing the lube oil is most important.
Yeah most shops only want to sell a repower unit.
These will last a long time on 4 and 6 cylinder engines with regular maintence.
Oh yeh, very helpful,,,!!!. And much appreciated. I’m gonna send you an email.,Mike
Awesome video!
Hello, great video! I have a question; where is oil circulation pump on DP290, or rather how oil circulates threw out the drive? On SP model in cross section is shown oil circ. pump behind the rear gear but not on DP version. Tnx, keep up the good work! ;)
Hi Oly, yeah I've thought about this one as well.
And this is just a total guess; I suspect since there's two side gears rather than just one some centrifugal pumping action is generated by the gears even though they're spinning in opposite directions. Like I noted, that's a total guess.
The DPs still use a return oil strainer so there's flow happening somehow.
Thanks for commenting and viewing,
ATB.....
Hi Dean, back lash and shimming is necessary when you replace bearing, shafts or carrier right? For shaft seal only isn’t right? Martin
That's right Martin, even a bearing change you can keep the same shims, just don't mix them up.
Are the center sections interchangeable thanks
@@vincas229 yes they are but; you will need to recheck all your shims that interface between the upper and the lower, to maintain the proper clamping and Bearing preloads
aloha, is it possible to convert a 280 to a duo prop 290? if so what would I need to do any information would greatly appreciated, mahalo
@@michaelgarner5081 a dual prop lower will bolt right on, but here’s some things to keep in mind and to watch out for:
- the top input shaft, bearing cup will need to be re-shimmed to set the proper preload. The Bearing cup is located in the midsection and is installed with shims behind it.
- the 280 upper gear unit is weaker than the 290 - A and newer models. Dual prop will put additional stress on that gear unit.
- The DP lower is heavier than the SP, if you tilt motor is weak, it may have trouble raising the unit.
- the DP‘s are higher maintenance units due to the extra moving parts.
- quite a few people have made this conversion.
- the DP do not maneuver as well when reversing
@@michaelgarner5081 if you really need the extra performance or your existing unit is having issues it might be worthwhile.
If your SP unit is working well, I would leave it as is just my opinion
Where are you located? I live in Connecticut and don’t know of anyone to inspect or rebuild a DPC-1 drive. Thank you.
Hi I'm in California.. Your drive is the newer SX style unit. I currently don't work on those, I'm just not setup for it.
Thanks for checking...