Good morning Greg. Another excellent video. The great thing for me about your videos is that you aren't only teaching people to be better welders but you keep all of your videos interesting and educational at the same time. God bless and keep up the great work. 👍👍🙂
Good Morning Greg. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do these tests and explain the results. These practical class room lessons are excellent. Will you eventually show us how to weld/test with two different thickness metals such as welding 1/2" plate with 1"x 1"x 1" square bar stock? This is a typical job in my smithy as I make various tools to fit into my 1"square hardy hole. I continue to look forward to your outstanding lessons!
Thanks for the kind words. So what welding process do you want to see me do that with? How strong does it need to be? From a strength perspective that would need some significant weld to not have the weld fail before either piece of material failed (bent). Odds are it wouldn’t need to have a multi pass weld to have it do the job you need. The main limitations of that type of a weld would be the thickness of base material requires a ton of heat (power). On face value I would tig weld those because I know I can make defect free strong welds that aren’t oversized. My second thought would be 7018. Mig would be last because you would need 200a minimum to get solid welds on it. So give me some more thoughts on what your criteria’s are. Also, can the weld stick outside of the square stock or do you want it flush?
to add weldable area you could pierce a hole in the plate then insert the bar about 1/4'' from the edge, plug weld above flush, grind the weld flush, also you could preheat the plate (while keeping the bar stock at ambient temp)
Loving what you do here Greg. This kind of stuff id deen nowhere else on TH-cam. You mentioned doing a TIG test in he same fashion.....could you also do a 7018 test identical to this too? To other watchers od this amazing channel: please take 10 minutes to think about supporting Gregs work - maybe shoot an email to a US steel supplier, asking them to sponsor his channel. Or a welding machine manudacturer. My Xbox just died on me, so this weekend, im going to message a few companies asking them to sponsor him for either equipment or cashbux. Lets give something back :)
I have not filmed a tig test yet ( I will) but I have filmed a bunch of stick rods. Those will be most interesting because the strength difference is appalling different lol. They will be out over the next 1-2 weeks. Thanks for the kind thoughts on my channel and being supportive of my work. I do what I do because it gives me the ability to share what I know and that my knowledge is useful instead of collecting dust in my head lol. My payback is that my work helps other people better themselves and their skills, which is something that money cant buy. In the future I may consider doing some kind of partnership with a company, but it would have to be on my terms. Which my terms are primarily focusing on improving other peoples skills, with disregard for being a shill for a company. I am sure things will come with time, luckily I have the ability to shoot tons of videos to share to get people motivated 😀
Excellent comparative test. I think it would be interesting to see a test in differences in preheat temperatures, say 400F and 800F. It should be noted that it is common practice to place a starter tab at the beginning of the weld which helps to build the heat before hitting the actual joint thus eliminating that short “crack“ at the beginning of the weld.
It definitely is common, and very valuable to use those starter tabs. All common welding processes besides tig have a lack of fusion right after a weld start, and when welding over tac welds. Having a tab at the start will have that lack of fusion wind up discarded rather than in what your welding 😀.
Glad you liked it, I learned a lot making it. I honestly didnt think the mig weld would survive being flattened like that. Needless to say other welds I have done since did not survive lol.
I have shot a ton of test videos I am sure you will like. I had some very unexpected results, especially in 7014 and 6011 rods lol. The interesting thing for me is I have read a lot about different welding process strengths/weaknesses, but when you test stuff first had you realize there was a lot left out of the book lol.
I was show a neat little trick and that is to clamp a piece of steel of same thicknesses to the job and start the weld about 1/2to 3/4" before the job. Nice and hot and consistent weld all the way. Then remove the the start piece. Not always able possible, but a nice tool to know
That is commonly done with structural steel as “run on and run off tabs”. All welding processes suffer from poor fusion near the start of a weld. By having that starting 1/2in to 1in off what you’re welding, you will have more consistent fusion on the weld, start to finish. Consistent welds are the strongest welds.
So welding both sides of the joint would SUBSTANTIALLY increase the strength of the welded joint, as either direction would be against (away from) the face, right?
You are definitely correct. All processes are way stronger if both sides of a fillet weld are welded. Essentially you would have a “bend towards the face” no matter which direction the force comes from. I can’t break a towards the face bend with a breaker bar, so the difference is significant (most take over 4 tons of force to bend the 3/8th steel with the weld not giving up). The limitation of this is sometimes that’s not possible due to what’s being welded. The other thing that won’t be fixed is if a particular weld fails on a bend away from the face (like 6013 has in my testing) adding a weld on the back will not help it pass. Ideally for max strength both sides would be welded or a beveled gap would used to achieve full penetration with reinforcement. However in many cases this simply isn’t needed, like welding square tube to a flat plate. If the tube is fully welded around, the weld will never see a bend towards the face because the opposite side weld would have to tear off for that to happen. Hopefully all of that makes sense.
No problem, glad you learned a thing or two 😀. That’s the great thing with testing things, you can find out what’s going on rather than hoping something works lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I weld some beam with a cheap chinease welder it’s 12"x 6" - 3/8" thick steel beam last year with my yeswelder 135 and start lifting my house to redo the basement. It’s pretty powerful and do the job! I tested my weld almost like you do and now I just want to play again with my machine! It’s crazy what we can do with such cheap tool and time!
Greg, fantastic video. I was wondering If you can make another strength test weld video and test how strong an inch long bead by different welding rods is..IE 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018?
So I have tested all of those rods doing a video format like this one, they will be out over the next 1-2 weeks. Although they weren't inch long welds, the differences in strength is so ridiculously apparent I think it will be clear as to what rod to use if you want strength. I will likely take your suggestion and do some sort of direct test on small welds, a lot could be learned from that 😀.
Hey Greg, just wanted to let you know ive been improving with my little titanium 125, ive got this sucker dialed in, im welding in floor pans and little odd patch panels on a buddy of mines 49 styline deluxe that he just wants to pretty up to drive because he already has a really nice one but its on classic plates so he cant really drive it that much, man the thin stuff sure is a challenge with flux core, but im getting it done, i left him very impressed after my first rust patch below the trunk, hes really considering getting the titanium 225 for himself and having me teach him and his son the basics. (Its more for his son than anything, he wants his son to find something he likes to do, because well, hes at that age)
Awesome man glad to hear that. Yeah thin material sucks, there is no way around it. that titanium 125 is a awesome little welder for projects like that though. The main limitation is finding a setting where its hot enough to not have starting porosity issues and yet cold enough you dont blow a hole. Gas shielded mig with .024 wire is even easier because you can run cold without porosity. However flux core is definitely doable for the average person and for the cost of the machine its 100% worth it. That titanium 225 is definitely worth it. It stick welds great with all rods, even 6010. I am not joking when I tell you that it's the best sub 600$ stick welder you can get. Its light, portable, pretty energy efficient, and is very simple to use. The only real downside to it is the output on 120v is rather limited (75 amps) which 600$+ machines can output 90-100 amps. if 240v is available I would buy one and a few boxes of rods 100%.
3/32 6010 1/8 7018 That's what everyone said is the strongest for the last 100 yrs. The weld would b the same size as that mig weld. Awesome test none the less.
You're onto something there. 6010 has more penetration by a lot, which gives a ton of mechanical advantage if the backside of say a fillet weld, can't be welded. Then the 7018 has more strength than 6010 does, so it's more likely to pass a bend test. The interesting thing is I have a 2 videos coming out in the next week or two testing 6010 with single pass, 3 pass, and 6010 root with 7018 2 bead cap. The results of those are eye opening lol.
really interesting tests. I understand that these welds were undersized and the welder underpowered for this application, but wouldn't these results suggest that if you welded both sides, as per standard procedure, that it would be an extremely strong joint? Should it/Could it be stronger for 3/8 plate? sure! but still it seems like if you have to basically deform the metal until it's nearly doubled back on itself and the weld still hasn't broken, then the weld is strong enough to do it's thing. I mean, with that much force you've destroyed whatever it is you built and turned it into a pretzel and the welds are still holding. How much stronger does it need to be? Am I wrong in thinking about it this way?
You are absolutely right in your thoughts. In the case of this weld on mild steel, if you were to weld both sides with the same size weld, it would pass being bent either direction fine and arguably have maximum strength. Even though the weld is undersized for the specific material thickness, if both sides were welded a undersized weld can be acceptable. The real interesting results will be when the videos on using 60xx rods and bending those plates, because they have far different results even with oversized welds.
OK. I'm stopping the video before you get into any testing and I have not read the comments. My vote is that the preheated joints will be at least an order of magnitude higher than non-preheated. Now, an order of magnitude is pretty damn high so let me hedge a little and just say the pre-heats will be damn stronger than those that are not pre-heated. So, what do I get if I win?? Lolol Enough of this --on with the video! Dang! Think I didn't win... What I'm not sure I get about this whole series is if I'm staring at a big ole hunk of 3/8" or bigger plate and my little dinky 200 amp welder, I better be thinking about making bevels and cuts in that stuff before I even consider what process to use (not to mention many multi passes). That is if I'm expecting it to be structurally sound for important applications as opposed to some ridiculously heavy ornamental stuff. It's still really cool to see how strong a weld can be with just a single pass on heavy plate. Thanks for sharing!
Great guess and honestly you're not far off. I will do a test at 140 amps with a preheat and without, that has more difference than is seen here (percentage wise lol). At the output I was at (somewhere north of 180 amps) it simply had enough power that the preheat didnt really help hugely. I have tested a ton of other options, with videos coming out 2-3 a week for more than a few weeks. The one you will definitely want to watch is the bevel/gap video, that was quite interesting.
Very great video! I think the bendtest to opposite side of the weld could set a different point of view to the dualshield wire because it is able to deposit a fairly larger weld in one pass and has materialwise probably more tensile strength than the common solid wire. In real world application one should have access to weld from both sides - but this applies to all the tested methods until it comes to open root welds. I'm quite a bit ashamed of my curiosity because it silently asks you to do more tests but the truth is that I'm by far not able to weld in such a consistency over all the methods like you and so doing own tests would barely make sense. You always state that your tests are not scientific. But compared to other channels that do breaktests with a sledgehammer your effort to use torque gauges, press and pressure gauge makes them the most accurate and comparable I found on yt.
So I did do a few bends on some of the scrap tests I had laying around from the dual shield. It did indeed bend towards the face without breaking at all. IT is without a doubt strong, in tensile strength. It will make a appearance again soon 😀. Its ok if you can't test your own welds, what matters is you try to follow "best practices". Through my testing I hope to teach everyone why certain things are done a certain way, and also open peoples eyes to what can happen when you do things wrong lol. The most important thing is to practice and seek knowledge 😀
Interesting tests. It makes me think that when things are put together with 1 inch long beads every so often, the entire bead could very likely have poor fusion.
You are correct on your thoughts. I loosely tested that in a few videos but the start of every weld with mig and stick will have reduced penetration/fusion. This is why it’s best to tack weld with really hot settings and grind the tacks down before welding over them. Short welds on steel over 3/16th thick can be run really hot with very little detriment. A good example is with stick welding, I tend run 130-135 amps on short welds with 7018 (1/8th rods) on 3/16th or over steel. For 1-2 inch long welds it works, but after half a rod you will tend to get arc blow due to the rod heating up, so it’s not super useful for that. Heat tends to be your friend more so than running cold 😀
Absolutely, they are all within 1/32 of one another in a particular video and within a 1/16th video to video. I did that to make the results fairly accurate across tests. I also grind both top plate bottoms pretty flat and uniform. Ideally I should make a 3-4in weld and then cut a section out, but realistically I don’t have the time to do that and the way I have been will still give valid info 😀
I have a bottle of c02 I will be trying soon. So c02 will increase penetration, however it requires more voltage to run. Many home hobby welders can't produce enough output voltage to weld with c02 (it needs 1-2 volts more than c25). The other interesting thing is co2 will lower the ductility and tensile strength of the weld. It will still be above the spec for er70 wire but it will be below c25 gas shielding. I would still think it would handle the bed towards the face but we shal see 😀
Is there a way in TH-cam to have a file system so that you can separate flux core from stick etc. This would make it much easier to keep all techniques videos together and find say all of the, or flux core, in their separate folders instead of hunting around for the next in a series
Under my channel it has a playlists tab button where everything is organized by type. Anytime I have uploaded a video in the last 8months it gets tagged to a specific playlist. That way only relevant videos to the specific playlist are shown 😀
Thanks Greg. It’s my lack of knowledge about the TH-cam setup. Found easily after reading your reply. Thanks I’ve wasted so much time hunting around on TH-cam but no longer
500 degrees in F, or C? I had been guessing we’d be trying this around 100-200C … 🤷♀️ This might be pretty reasonable, if I only have to get to 260C! 🤞 I’ve gotta try this trick!
400-500 F, I should have specified lol. You could heat the material up on a wood stove for sure. I broke a steering arm once off roading and heated it up on campfire inorder to weld it together 😂.
From my experience it seems like the 6010 doesn’t bend much and just snaps. 7018 seems to bend far more and then gently gives up. 6010s yield strength is far closer to its ultimate tensile strength than 7018s, which may be why it doesn’t really give much before it ultimately fails. Both spec out at similar elongation as a minimum but in testing they definitely seem to be worlds apart.
Good morning Greg. Another excellent video. The great thing for me about your videos is that you aren't only teaching people to be better welders but you keep all of your videos interesting and educational at the same time. God bless and keep up the great work. 👍👍🙂
Thanks for the kind words 😀. It’s a lot of fun testing stuff and sharing info. Especially when I get unexpected results lol.
Great how you always hone in on the most interesting of subjects with great practicality.
Most informative welding channel on TH-cam. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the kind words 😀. I am just glad to be part of the helping people out group 😀.
Good Morning Greg. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do these tests and explain the results. These practical class room lessons are excellent. Will you eventually show us how to weld/test with two different thickness metals such as welding 1/2" plate with 1"x 1"x 1" square bar stock? This is a typical job in my smithy as I make various tools to fit into my 1"square hardy hole. I continue to look forward to your outstanding lessons!
Thanks for the kind words. So what welding process do you want to see me do that with? How strong does it need to be? From a strength perspective that would need some significant weld to not have the weld fail before either piece of material failed (bent). Odds are it wouldn’t need to have a multi pass weld to have it do the job you need. The main limitations of that type of a weld would be the thickness of base material requires a ton of heat (power). On face value I would tig weld those because I know I can make defect free strong welds that aren’t oversized. My second thought would be 7018. Mig would be last because you would need 200a minimum to get solid welds on it.
So give me some more thoughts on what your criteria’s are. Also, can the weld stick outside of the square stock or do you want it flush?
to add weldable area you could pierce a hole in the plate then insert the bar about 1/4'' from the edge, plug weld above flush, grind the weld flush, also you could preheat the plate (while keeping the bar stock at ambient temp)
Loving what you do here Greg. This kind of stuff id deen nowhere else on TH-cam. You mentioned doing a TIG test in he same fashion.....could you also do a 7018 test identical to this too?
To other watchers od this amazing channel: please take 10 minutes to think about supporting Gregs work - maybe shoot an email to a US steel supplier, asking them to sponsor his channel. Or a welding machine manudacturer. My Xbox just died on me, so this weekend, im going to message a few companies asking them to sponsor him for either equipment or cashbux. Lets give something back :)
I have not filmed a tig test yet ( I will) but I have filmed a bunch of stick rods. Those will be most interesting because the strength difference is appalling different lol. They will be out over the next 1-2 weeks.
Thanks for the kind thoughts on my channel and being supportive of my work. I do what I do because it gives me the ability to share what I know and that my knowledge is useful instead of collecting dust in my head lol. My payback is that my work helps other people better themselves and their skills, which is something that money cant buy. In the future I may consider doing some kind of partnership with a company, but it would have to be on my terms. Which my terms are primarily focusing on improving other peoples skills, with disregard for being a shill for a company. I am sure things will come with time, luckily I have the ability to shoot tons of videos to share to get people motivated 😀
Excellent comparative test. I think it would be interesting to see a test in differences in preheat temperatures, say 400F and 800F.
It should be noted that it is common practice to place a starter tab at the beginning of the weld which helps to build the heat before hitting the actual joint thus eliminating that short “crack“ at the beginning of the weld.
It definitely is common, and very valuable to use those starter tabs. All common welding processes besides tig have a lack of fusion right after a weld start, and when welding over tac welds. Having a tab at the start will have that lack of fusion wind up discarded rather than in what your welding 😀.
good job Greg. I appreciate your efforts.
Youre welcome, I put the hard work in so everyone can learn and become better welders 😀.
That was such an informative video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it, I learned a lot making it. I honestly didnt think the mig weld would survive being flattened like that. Needless to say other welds I have done since did not survive lol.
Another excellent video! Great information; really looking forward to seeing you test the other processes. Thanks!
I have shot a ton of test videos I am sure you will like. I had some very unexpected results, especially in 7014 and 6011 rods lol. The interesting thing for me is I have read a lot about different welding process strengths/weaknesses, but when you test stuff first had you realize there was a lot left out of the book lol.
I'm really enjoying your videos. I'm learning a lot!
Glad they are helping you out 😀
thanks Greg.....chers from Florida, Paul
Greg, that is a great Stillson on your wrist.....
I was show a neat little trick and that is to clamp a piece of steel of same thicknesses to the job and start the weld about 1/2to 3/4" before the job. Nice and hot and consistent weld all the way. Then remove the the start piece. Not always able possible, but a nice tool to know
That is commonly done with structural steel as “run on and run off tabs”. All welding processes suffer from poor fusion near the start of a weld. By having that starting 1/2in to 1in off what you’re welding, you will have more consistent fusion on the weld, start to finish. Consistent welds are the strongest welds.
Could you perhaps do a video on how to avoid bending when welding a frame of stuff like this?
Great idea. I have covered that topic loosely in random videos, but I could definitely do a specific video on that topic.
So welding both sides of the joint would SUBSTANTIALLY increase the strength of the welded joint, as either direction would be against (away from) the face, right?
You are definitely correct. All processes are way stronger if both sides of a fillet weld are welded. Essentially you would have a “bend towards the face” no matter which direction the force comes from. I can’t break a towards the face bend with a breaker bar, so the difference is significant (most take over 4 tons of force to bend the 3/8th steel with the weld not giving up).
The limitation of this is sometimes that’s not possible due to what’s being welded. The other thing that won’t be fixed is if a particular weld fails on a bend away from the face (like 6013 has in my testing) adding a weld on the back will not help it pass.
Ideally for max strength both sides would be welded or a beveled gap would used to achieve full penetration with reinforcement. However in many cases this simply isn’t needed, like welding square tube to a flat plate. If the tube is fully welded around, the weld will never see a bend towards the face because the opposite side weld would have to tear off for that to happen. Hopefully all of that makes sense.
Wow another perfect video thank!
No problem, glad you learned a thing or two 😀. That’s the great thing with testing things, you can find out what’s going on rather than hoping something works lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I weld some beam with a cheap chinease welder it’s 12"x 6" - 3/8" thick steel beam last year with my yeswelder 135 and start lifting my house to redo the basement. It’s pretty powerful and do the job! I tested my weld almost like you do and now I just want to play again with my machine! It’s crazy what we can do with such cheap tool and time!
Would have been interesting if you had welded both at 140amps. Great vid. Thanks!!!
I will have a video out on that soon. The end result was far higher than the 6% increase in strength in this video lol.
Good one!
Greg, fantastic video. I was wondering If you can make another strength test weld video and test how strong an inch long bead by different welding rods is..IE 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018?
So I have tested all of those rods doing a video format like this one, they will be out over the next 1-2 weeks. Although they weren't inch long welds, the differences in strength is so ridiculously apparent I think it will be clear as to what rod to use if you want strength. I will likely take your suggestion and do some sort of direct test on small welds, a lot could be learned from that 😀.
I support this content.
Hey Greg, just wanted to let you know ive been improving with my little titanium 125, ive got this sucker dialed in, im welding in floor pans and little odd patch panels on a buddy of mines 49 styline deluxe that he just wants to pretty up to drive because he already has a really nice one but its on classic plates so he cant really drive it that much, man the thin stuff sure is a challenge with flux core, but im getting it done, i left him very impressed after my first rust patch below the trunk, hes really considering getting the titanium 225 for himself and having me teach him and his son the basics. (Its more for his son than anything, he wants his son to find something he likes to do, because well, hes at that age)
Awesome man glad to hear that. Yeah thin material sucks, there is no way around it. that titanium 125 is a awesome little welder for projects like that though. The main limitation is finding a setting where its hot enough to not have starting porosity issues and yet cold enough you dont blow a hole. Gas shielded mig with .024 wire is even easier because you can run cold without porosity. However flux core is definitely doable for the average person and for the cost of the machine its 100% worth it.
That titanium 225 is definitely worth it. It stick welds great with all rods, even 6010. I am not joking when I tell you that it's the best sub 600$ stick welder you can get. Its light, portable, pretty energy efficient, and is very simple to use. The only real downside to it is the output on 120v is rather limited (75 amps) which 600$+ machines can output 90-100 amps. if 240v is available I would buy one and a few boxes of rods 100%.
3/32 6010
1/8 7018
That's what everyone said is the strongest for the last 100 yrs. The weld would b the same size as that mig weld. Awesome test none the less.
You're onto something there. 6010 has more penetration by a lot, which gives a ton of mechanical advantage if the backside of say a fillet weld, can't be welded. Then the 7018 has more strength than 6010 does, so it's more likely to pass a bend test. The interesting thing is I have a 2 videos coming out in the next week or two testing 6010 with single pass, 3 pass, and 6010 root with 7018 2 bead cap. The results of those are eye opening lol.
Love your videos BTW. Your accent cracks me up. B safe broski
I hope the old timers r right. Can't wait to see it. 6010 3/32 at 85 amps will spike in there. You could even do a test with 6011 as the root.
really interesting tests. I understand that these welds were undersized and the welder underpowered for this application, but wouldn't these results suggest that if you welded both sides, as per standard procedure, that it would be an extremely strong joint? Should it/Could it be stronger for 3/8 plate? sure! but still it seems like if you have to basically deform the metal until it's nearly doubled back on itself and the weld still hasn't broken, then the weld is strong enough to do it's thing. I mean, with that much force you've destroyed whatever it is you built and turned it into a pretzel and the welds are still holding. How much stronger does it need to be? Am I wrong in thinking about it this way?
You are absolutely right in your thoughts. In the case of this weld on mild steel, if you were to weld both sides with the same size weld, it would pass being bent either direction fine and arguably have maximum strength. Even though the weld is undersized for the specific material thickness, if both sides were welded a undersized weld can be acceptable. The real interesting results will be when the videos on using 60xx rods and bending those plates, because they have far different results even with oversized welds.
OK. I'm stopping the video before you get into any testing and I have not read the comments. My vote is that the preheated joints will be at least an order of magnitude higher than non-preheated. Now, an order of magnitude is pretty damn high so let me hedge a little and just say the pre-heats will be damn stronger than those that are not pre-heated. So, what do I get if I win?? Lolol Enough of this --on with the video!
Dang! Think I didn't win... What I'm not sure I get about this whole series is if I'm staring at a big ole hunk of 3/8" or bigger plate and my little dinky 200 amp welder, I better be thinking about making bevels and cuts in that stuff before I even consider what process to use (not to mention many multi passes). That is if I'm expecting it to be structurally sound for important applications as opposed to some ridiculously heavy ornamental stuff. It's still really cool to see how strong a weld can be with just a single pass on heavy plate. Thanks for sharing!
Great guess and honestly you're not far off. I will do a test at 140 amps with a preheat and without, that has more difference than is seen here (percentage wise lol). At the output I was at (somewhere north of 180 amps) it simply had enough power that the preheat didnt really help hugely.
I have tested a ton of other options, with videos coming out 2-3 a week for more than a few weeks. The one you will definitely want to watch is the bevel/gap video, that was quite interesting.
Hey Greg, how about doing a test with a drag instead of a push,
you should get better penetration with drag......on GMAW of course....
cheers, Paul
Great idea, I will add that to the list on what to test :)
Very great video! I think the bendtest to opposite side of the weld could set a different point of view to the dualshield wire because it is able to deposit a fairly larger weld in one pass and has materialwise probably more tensile strength than the common solid wire. In real world application one should have access to weld from both sides - but this applies to all the tested methods until it comes to open root welds.
I'm quite a bit ashamed of my curiosity because it silently asks you to do more tests but the truth is that I'm by far not able to weld in such a consistency over all the methods like you and so doing own tests would barely make sense.
You always state that your tests are not scientific. But compared to other channels that do breaktests with a sledgehammer your effort to use torque gauges, press and pressure gauge makes them the most accurate and comparable I found on yt.
So I did do a few bends on some of the scrap tests I had laying around from the dual shield. It did indeed bend towards the face without breaking at all. IT is without a doubt strong, in tensile strength. It will make a appearance again soon 😀. Its ok if you can't test your own welds, what matters is you try to follow "best practices". Through my testing I hope to teach everyone why certain things are done a certain way, and also open peoples eyes to what can happen when you do things wrong lol. The most important thing is to practice and seek knowledge 😀
Thank you for that!
Interesting tests. It makes me think that when things are put together with 1 inch long beads every so often, the entire bead could very likely have poor fusion.
You are correct on your thoughts. I loosely tested that in a few videos but the start of every weld with mig and stick will have reduced penetration/fusion. This is why it’s best to tack weld with really hot settings and grind the tacks down before welding over them. Short welds on steel over 3/16th thick can be run really hot with very little detriment. A good example is with stick welding, I tend run 130-135 amps on short welds with 7018 (1/8th rods) on 3/16th or over steel. For 1-2 inch long welds it works, but after half a rod you will tend to get arc blow due to the rod heating up, so it’s not super useful for that. Heat tends to be your friend more so than running cold 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thanks for this detailed answer. This will go into my notes.
I’m sure you’ve covered this but have you standardized the dimensions of plates you’re welding together to test like this? Example 3”x3” pieces.
Absolutely, they are all within 1/32 of one another in a particular video and within a 1/16th video to video. I did that to make the results fairly accurate across tests. I also grind both top plate bottoms pretty flat and uniform. Ideally I should make a 3-4in weld and then cut a section out, but realistically I don’t have the time to do that and the way I have been will still give valid info 😀
Interesting results. Wonder if CO2 would penetrate any better since they say it runs hotter.
I have a bottle of c02 I will be trying soon. So c02 will increase penetration, however it requires more voltage to run. Many home hobby welders can't produce enough output voltage to weld with c02 (it needs 1-2 volts more than c25). The other interesting thing is co2 will lower the ductility and tensile strength of the weld. It will still be above the spec for er70 wire but it will be below c25 gas shielding. I would still think it would handle the bed towards the face but we shal see 😀
If I could, I would subscribe twice.
Is there a way in TH-cam to have a file system so that you can separate flux core from stick etc. This would make it much easier to keep all techniques videos together and find say all of the, or flux core, in their separate folders instead of hunting around for the next in a series
Under my channel it has a playlists tab button where everything is organized by type. Anytime I have uploaded a video in the last 8months it gets tagged to a specific playlist. That way only relevant videos to the specific playlist are shown 😀
Thanks Greg. It’s my lack of knowledge about the TH-cam setup. Found easily after reading your reply. Thanks I’ve wasted so much time hunting around on TH-cam but no longer
500 degrees in F, or C?
I had been guessing we’d be trying this around 100-200C … 🤷♀️ This might be pretty reasonable, if I only have to get to 260C! 🤞
I’ve gotta try this trick!
Do people weld on the top of a wood-stove? like as heated work-surface. 🤔 That could get me up to 400C, if I’m really heckin patient. 😂
400-500 F, I should have specified lol. You could heat the material up on a wood stove for sure. I broke a steering arm once off roading and heated it up on campfire inorder to weld it together 😂.
Since metal molecules expand with heat,it's common sense to preheat.
Wow, looks like I am the first to comment!
You are buddy, congrats 😀👍
It's Odd how AWS say's the Elongaton of the 6010 & 7018 are at 22%... But Ur Test's Prove Otherwise... WhaTs going On...haa
From my experience it seems like the 6010 doesn’t bend much and just snaps. 7018 seems to bend far more and then gently gives up. 6010s yield strength is far closer to its ultimate tensile strength than 7018s, which may be why it doesn’t really give much before it ultimately fails. Both spec out at similar elongation as a minimum but in testing they definitely seem to be worlds apart.