Just caught up with the whole series! Excellent attention to detail it will be a real thing of beauty once it is finished. I think the over engineered bracket is the best solution I have seen thus far, don't let any one tell you otherwise. I've seen a lot conversions and always considered the motor bracket a weak point. i.e. stone impacts and splashes from puddles which is quite a big problem here in the UK. I look forward to seeing the rest of this project in your following videos. I will be taking plenty of notes for my future conversion.
Nice tidy work Don. Often motors are only mounted by the flange, so this is a very good structure and takes care of using the front mount point well. I'll be watching the next vid for sure.
Nice job Don, I didn't notice if you've already done it, but if not, I would suggest a drain hole in the mount where it bolts to the transmission adaptor. Kind Regards Nigel
Look into patreon, it can help offset the cost of tools. What your doing is very interesting and I learn a lot from watching your projects, others must learn from you too. That means your channel is of value. Best of luck with the conversion, I'm considering converting a 2001 Acura 3.2cl s-type. Currently building custom 51.1v nominal li-ion batteries using 18650s and ultracapacitor boost modules for my future ev projects.
Ur amazing n it a great car to do an ev conversation on because it’s such a light weight vehicle. With a perfect 50/50 weight distribution stock. Can’t wait to see the finished product 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for sharing all the conversion process online. Love you don't rush and do the things the proper way, the motor mount took some time to do but it looks amazing. Keep up with the good work!! You are an inspiration for other hobbyist as myself :)
And to add to the battery's topic, you can get leaf battery's from salvage yard for about $2500 that's 48 modules it's 20-22 kWh total pack? They are 8.4v 2s2p modules at around 64Ah each. You can configure them as you need to make 110v for you motor, 15s or 14s.
Build looks awesome! If you anneal the aluminum before manipulating bends or shapes you'll have much better luck. all kinds of information on how to anneal online. Have a great day!
Another great video. I have one question/suggestion though. Personally, and I may be missing something here, but I think your motor support and 'cradle' there is a little overkill. If you take a look at this shot at 49:43 if you turned your mount around 180 deg. and didn't cut out the round of that vertical plate that goes from one side to the other, couldn't you have drilled holes in it to line up with those bolt holes in the motor casing, and just bolted straight in to those? Admittedly there'd be pressure on your flange plate in the middle there but I'm pretty sure your rock solid flange and bolts would be more than adequate for that?
Hello Sir Don Walters, I am from Brazil, and I really want to know how to change a car to a electric car with you. This is the first video that I found. thanks for your contribution of knowledge to the world.
Awesome project, Don! Idea for your electric cord, 2:03 to 2:09; Mount the retractable housing closer to the outlet and beam, then run it through pulleys (you'll need a long cord, probably 100') along the axes. I know exactly what you mean by 150% humidity, by the way.
I'm always surprised by the number of EV conversions reuse the transmission. Why not just extend the driveshaft and direct couple to the motor? With the AC motor you can easily incorporate reverse as an input to the controller, and let off the gas for regen. The trans is just adding load and wasting energy that can be better used to drive the back wheels.
I like how you left the back of the motor open for service without taking off the mount. I don't like the cuts on the hand..... gloves. Your cat is a total ham..... Bracket is not overkill.....those motors are very torquey. I think you should use thicker rubber as a motor mount to allow the motor to travel north and south in the vehicle with the trans and diff through the drive shaft. 1/4" to 3/8" thick rubber I think would be good for that electric motor. The trans mounts allow for a lot of movement and some nice thick rubber would work great. That thin stuff just didn't look like enough vibration damping. Great work with your hands on the design along with a nice vision to piece it all together.
I just watch all your 6 episode. Awesome, very detailed, not all TH-camrs are so details. Loved. When you are doing the next one. I will follow you to the end.
OMG I thought the guys in Project Binky were fussy and over engineered everything. They ain't got nothin on you mate. Oh and that;s a compliment, I love your work. If you haven't watched Project Binky I thoroughly recommend you do. They've been building a Frankenstein Mini for years.
Suggestion: Your over-complicating the motor mount. Why not just mount the motor from the front mounting holes? The 12a/13b mounts that way without issues. That's a lot of extra weight considering your using steel and not aluminum
I agree. I would follow the engine guidelines, most engines only attach at specific points with the motor mounts and rubber, to allow for vibration, and the bumps in the road, etc. If you make it too rigid, you might be inviting vibration/torque binding problems, and perhaps overheating the motor by enclosing it too much. I say use the front part you made and make a band to fit in between the elect connections, all the way around and bolted to the bottom part, which is bolted to the motor mounts, and that's it. Isn't the motor a lot lighter than a typical engine? Boy I wish I had your toys! As a kid I worked in a machine shop 5 years, but left it a long time ago. Good luck with the project.
Hello Don Just started watching. Finished episode one. So far I like what I see and will continue to watch with great anticipation. I also wanted to comment about the sign outside your shop. Being Lock Haven, PA born and raised I love the it.
dave moore, you recognized a great product from the old Lock Heaven airplane factory. I'm a big fan and supporter of two right now. The sign was painted by a friend of mine using a picture of our PA-12. That we bought from Jersey Shore, PA.
Hi Don, I love your project and would like to know more about your 3 day meeting. I'm quadriplegic and have years of experience prior to a logging accident in '84. I've worked for various companies like Hyster and Tubelok where my two-yr engineering degree paid me well in the bracket design arena. I agree with Nnilezy regarding motor mount strategy. Any additional metal wrapped around the motor may increase temperature and complicate future motor maintenance. Remember the suggestion (kiss "keep it simple". Front mount would be my choice. I would also design a water barrier shroud for the electrical components. I plan on designing a light open vehicle with independent suspension to kneel where I have egress in my wheelchair at a lower point instead of installing a lift. Four motors, each with its' own drive shaft, on each wheel, probably a pack of 6V-1100 Amp Rolls batteries in a series parallel config. Crab and round house steering available, cooling system for battery pack and motors, winter heat from small propane boiler to heating radiator and electric-proportional control steering. I also would .like to share with you some welding tricks I learned as an assistant welding engineer to Asa King at Lincoln Electric. One involves vibratory application for stress relieving during the welding processes. Sorry for this lengthy comment. I wish I could be there to help with anything. I design with Solidworks, a very awesome design tool especially for CNC machining. I anguished for your adapter process but you made it work! That's what counts...
Frank Maas Frank Maas, thanks for the comments. I steered away form attaching the motor mont to the end of the motor for a reason. The plan is to build a end cap and ducting to move cooling air in and keep water out. Your projects sound very interesting and complicated and I wish I had the time to get into cad. I would love to make my old Bridgeport CNC capable. Someday right! Keep charging on! Don.
C.A.D. Cardboard Assisted Design, from the fellas over at Project Binky :) Nice episode, just finished the backlog, it's a great project. Interesting to see how she does once she's complete.
Btw, on the roller, it would make your life thrice easier to do stuff with it, if you rolled yourself a wheel instead of a crank. Did that on mine, and it's a back saver. Another tip, narrow your band saw by cutting a smidge off its back with a thin angle grinder blade, YES, it will reduce the life of the blade, but, for an unnoticeable amount of time, still, i'd do it with an older one, rather than a new one. Very effective for doing narrow bends, mine's trimmed at 8 mm vs 1.2 cm it used to be and i cut 10 cm ID pieces with very smooth results.
Brilliant work buddy, I've I've really enjoyed watching the videos so far, I'm just gutted I'm going to have to wait for the next one. Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see how the car turns out.
Nice video, good quality. I have a suggestion- may have been covered but you show the motor as level, hopefully you are parrellel to the pinion of the rear end, or you will find out what harmonics out of phasing can do to a drive line- whether it's a gas engine or electric. Lots of info out there on that topic. Still a good project that is becoming very popular!
Great video. Thank you for all the detail in your fab process. I would like to improve my fab skills and try a project out like this some day. Thanks! wp.
Nice work, you didn't really show the angle of the driveshaft but usually straighter is not better, of course this is dependent of the pinion angle but it could cause accelerated wear in the u-joints
YOU SHOULD GO ONLINE AND LOOK AT GEARMOTORS. YOU WILL SEE THE C-FRANGE MOTORS ARE MOUNTED TO THE GEARBOX. I SPENT 35 YEARS AS A CONVEYOR EQUIPMENT ENGINEER AND DESIGN 1000'S OF DRIVES AND CAN'T RECALL EVER HAVING TO HAVE A FRONT MOTOR MOUNT. JUST SAYING. SOORY FOR ALL CAPS I DIDN'T NOTICE THE TEXT UNTIL I WAS FINIDHED ADDING MY 3 CENTS.
Hello Don, I just watched your series on your RX7 conversion and have been really enjoying it. I like the detail you provide and don't mind you keeping your videos longer. I am wondering what the status is of finishing your conversion? Mohamed
aaroncake, Anti-Chafe Seal AMS3303-.032. Silicone, Black, 1" wide x 15' long. Also made in sheets. Available from aviation supply company’s like aircraft spruce and specialty.
Great job, but why are you using the original transmission? Change the differential ratio and go! In addition to reducing weight to the whole, the transmission is the weak part of the system.
hernanbongiorno, thanks for the suggestion. I think that's a doable plan and I may try that on a future build but I didn't see any other conversation being done that way. I not afraid of blazing new trails but I didn't want to drag this tooooo long.
Love how this build is coming along. Very impressed with the quality of your work as well as the production quality of the video. Please keep up the good work! Quick question... the front of the motor looks like it has several mounting holes, why didn't you utilize those?
Chris Miko, yes, my son and I are working on the 4bt now and plan on uploading that video soon. The rest of the conversions will have to wait till the RX-7 is finished.
30:00 you did wrong about making the support stand . Never give pressure to the cylinder of the motor it will give crack but there are holes on the edges in this motor already holes are there so connect the supporting frame to the edges of the motor. Becz on bumby roads it wilk damage or crack you electric motor cylinder
Jeff Crowe, I think the AC motors run cooler then the DC motors do. Heat rise and airflow through the center hopefully will keep temps in check. I also don't think my wife won't be driving it like she stole it. I had the same thought and was thinking of cutting some cooling holes in the cradle but decided I wanted the protection from moisture and road debris instead. Time will tell. Thanks for the comment
Just binge watched this series up to here waiting for the next episode, but I thought I'd ask what motor your using, I think i remember you saying it was an AC 50 motor but I don't think you gave a brand or any more details, I would much appreciate it if you could tell me? also sorry if you've answered this before.
Hey, I just found your video. You have a problem w the speed of your hoist and wanted a VFD Well what you need is a PWM speed controller. I can make you one of those for not much $$ (PWM can control speed while maintaining Full Torque. IF this is a DC motor driven hoist.) If this is an AC driven hoist then it needs to be 3phase in order to use VFD. If it is AC single phase, I can also make you one of those.
@@MrRv8pilot OK AC single ph. Is it BRUSHED or Induction? IF brushed I can make a speed control for it. IF Induction then speed is set by the 60Hz of Sine wave.....So, SOL ...... :-D OR Change the motor to Brushed DC or AC I use a 12VDC winch......
![โฮ่ง! (SUGOI) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nFp4zjAARFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Just caught up with the whole series! Excellent attention to detail it will be a real thing of beauty once it is finished. I think the over engineered bracket is the best solution I have seen thus far, don't let any one tell you otherwise. I've seen a lot conversions and always considered the motor bracket a weak point. i.e. stone impacts and splashes from puddles which is quite a big problem here in the UK. I look forward to seeing the rest of this project in your following videos. I will be taking plenty of notes for my future conversion.
Thomas Hart, thank you
This is one of the best motor mounts that I have seen until today. Thanks for your will to share all those with us!
Pecilije Velicanstveni, 🙏
@@MrRv8pilot Thank you! But, what happened? Where are the next videos? Did you finish the car?
Pecilije Velicanstveni, not finished yet but making progress on battery boxes and batteries😃 video out soon!
Nice tidy work Don. Often motors are only mounted by the flange, so this is a very good structure and takes care of using the front mount point well. I'll be watching the next vid for sure.
Nice job Don, I didn't notice if you've already done it, but if not, I would suggest a drain hole in the mount where it bolts to the transmission adaptor.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Look into patreon, it can help offset the cost of tools. What your doing is very interesting and I learn a lot from watching your projects, others must learn from you too. That means your channel is of value. Best of luck with the conversion, I'm considering converting a 2001 Acura 3.2cl s-type. Currently building custom 51.1v nominal li-ion batteries using 18650s and ultracapacitor boost modules for my future ev projects.
Shannon Williams , thanks for the tip but that's not my style
Ur amazing n it a great car to do an ev conversation on because it’s such a light weight vehicle. With a perfect 50/50 weight distribution stock. Can’t wait to see the finished product 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Jose B, thank you 😊
Great engineer thumbs up from Devon England
Phillyboys Toys, thanks
That's CAD! as in cardboard assisted design!
WickedTRX, cardboards cheaper!
He could have got a good job on 'Blue Peter' a Brit TV show for kids in the 60s and 70s.
Really great job, I learned a lot from your videos. Thanks
Thank you for sharing all the conversion process online. Love you don't rush and do the things the proper way, the motor mount took some time to do but it looks amazing.
Keep up with the good work!! You are an inspiration for other hobbyist as myself :)
Felix Orjales, thank you for those kind words.
Thanks for sharing! You are real master at what you do! Can't wait for next video!
And to add to the battery's topic, you can get leaf battery's from salvage yard for about $2500 that's 48 modules it's 20-22 kWh total pack? They are 8.4v 2s2p modules at around 64Ah each. You can configure them as you need to make 110v for you motor, 15s or 14s.
This video series is excellent. Youve put a lot of effort and it shows. Cant wait for the next episode.
Loking for something like this. Thanks for the information. total joy watching vid's
Great project thanks for sharing.
I've been watching this series and I am really enjoying it. Thank you for making the videos. The build is coming along nicely 👍
Build looks awesome! If you anneal the aluminum before manipulating bends or shapes you'll have much better luck. all kinds of information on how to anneal online. Have a great day!
Mikaela Hope, I've never annealed aluminum before. Does it work on 2024-t3?
Another great video. I have one question/suggestion though. Personally, and I may be missing something here, but I think your motor support and 'cradle' there is a little overkill. If you take a look at this shot at 49:43 if you turned your mount around 180 deg. and didn't cut out the round of that vertical plate that goes from one side to the other, couldn't you have drilled holes in it to line up with those bolt holes in the motor casing, and just bolted straight in to those? Admittedly there'd be pressure on your flange plate in the middle there but I'm pretty sure your rock solid flange and bolts would be more than adequate for that?
Don is just eliminating the motor mount as a failure point. You could safely say that it'll never fail there!
Hello Sir Don Walters, I am from Brazil, and I really want to know how to change a car to a electric car with you. This is the first video that I found. thanks for your contribution of knowledge to the world.
Well done 👏
Thank you
Very interesting video also the picture quality and sound are great.
Warner Athey, thank you
Nice video love to see this
Grumman Pilots, thank you. I appreciate your videos as well!
Wow excellent fabrication work that mount looks like it was exactly for that car great job buddy !
Thanks very informative video I’m waiting for next video
Farooq Qureshi001 👍
Awesome project, Don! Idea for your electric cord, 2:03 to 2:09; Mount the retractable housing closer to the outlet and beam, then run it through pulleys (you'll need a long cord, probably 100') along the axes. I know exactly what you mean by 150% humidity, by the way.
Kevin Brewton, thanks Kevin.
I'm always surprised by the number of EV conversions reuse the transmission. Why not just extend the driveshaft and direct couple to the motor? With the AC motor you can easily incorporate reverse as an input to the controller, and let off the gas for regen. The trans is just adding load and wasting energy that can be better used to drive the back wheels.
Excellent work
I like how you left the back of the motor open for service without taking off the mount. I don't like the cuts on the hand..... gloves. Your cat is a total ham..... Bracket is not overkill.....those motors are very torquey. I think you should use thicker rubber as a motor mount to allow the motor to travel north and south in the vehicle with the trans and diff through the drive shaft. 1/4" to 3/8" thick rubber I think would be good for that electric motor. The trans mounts allow for a lot of movement and some nice thick rubber would work great. That thin stuff just didn't look like enough vibration damping. Great work with your hands on the design along with a nice vision to piece it all together.
WAS VERY NICE TO SEE FOR IDEAS.
You can buy such a winch from LIDL (a European low-cost supermarket chain) for around £50, plus 3 RSJs and some rollers.
非常不错的视频
Love the video series keep up the great work
Todd Coleman, thanks Todd
I'd be using rubber mounts to avoid noise. 100 thou is one tenth of an inch. You need to run it through the roller square.
you're a genius, I learned a lot!! thanks!!
Edwin McMillan, thank you. I left your email notification in my inbox long enough for my wife to read it!
Very nice video.. Thanks sir
I just watch all your 6 episode. Awesome, very detailed, not all TH-camrs are so details. Loved. When you are doing the next one. I will follow you to the end.
I ment all 5 episode. Sorry
nelson pagan, glad you enjoyed them. I'm still looking for batteries, I hope to get back to it soon.
I Recommend talk to Jehu Garcia ( battery expert, TH-camr)
OMG I thought the guys in Project Binky were fussy and over engineered everything. They ain't got nothin on you mate.
Oh and that;s a compliment, I love your work.
If you haven't watched Project Binky I thoroughly recommend you do. They've been building a Frankenstein Mini for years.
Suggestion: Your over-complicating the motor mount. Why not just mount the motor from the front mounting holes? The 12a/13b mounts that way without issues. That's a lot of extra weight considering your using steel and not aluminum
Nilezy, thanks for the suggestion
Same suggestion I was going to make. I'm a little behind because I'm just now catching up on this series, I Think I'll subscribe too.
I was thinking the same as the Nilezy and Brian but so far a good series I am also thing of making my own EV down the road.
I think the mount itself is great but I agree that it should come around to the front of the motor and mount via the front mounting holes.
I agree. I would follow the engine guidelines, most engines only attach at specific points with the motor mounts and rubber, to allow for vibration, and the bumps in the road, etc. If you make it too rigid, you might be inviting vibration/torque binding problems, and perhaps overheating the motor by enclosing it too much. I say use the front part you made and make a band to fit in between the elect connections, all the way around and bolted to the bottom part, which is bolted to the motor mounts, and that's it. Isn't the motor a lot lighter than a typical engine? Boy I wish I had your toys! As a kid I worked in a machine shop 5 years, but left it a long time ago. Good luck with the project.
Hello Don
Just started watching. Finished episode one. So far I like what I see and will continue to watch with great anticipation.
I also wanted to comment about the sign outside your shop. Being Lock Haven, PA born and raised I love the it.
dave moore, you recognized a great product from the old Lock Heaven airplane factory. I'm a big fan and supporter of two right now. The sign was painted by a friend of mine using a picture of our PA-12. That we bought from Jersey Shore, PA.
Hi Don, I love your project and would like to know more about your 3 day meeting. I'm quadriplegic and have years of experience prior to a logging accident in '84. I've worked for various companies like Hyster and Tubelok where my two-yr engineering degree paid me well in the bracket design arena. I agree with Nnilezy regarding motor mount strategy. Any additional metal wrapped around the motor may increase temperature and complicate future motor maintenance. Remember the suggestion (kiss "keep it simple". Front mount would be my choice. I would also design a water barrier shroud for the electrical components. I plan on designing a light open vehicle with independent suspension to kneel where I have egress in my wheelchair at a lower point instead of installing a lift. Four motors, each with its' own drive shaft, on each wheel, probably a pack of 6V-1100 Amp Rolls batteries in a series parallel config. Crab and round house steering available, cooling system for battery pack and motors, winter heat from small propane boiler to heating radiator and electric-proportional control steering. I also would .like to share with you some welding tricks I learned as an assistant welding engineer to Asa King at Lincoln Electric. One involves vibratory application for stress relieving during the welding processes. Sorry for this lengthy comment. I wish I could be there to help with anything. I design with Solidworks, a very awesome design tool especially for CNC machining. I anguished for your adapter process but you made it work! That's what counts...
Frank Maas Frank Maas, thanks for the comments. I steered away form attaching the motor mont to the end of the motor for a reason. The plan is to build a end cap and ducting to move cooling air in and keep water out. Your projects sound very interesting and complicated and I wish I had the time to get into cad. I would love to make my old Bridgeport CNC capable. Someday right! Keep charging on! Don.
good job Don , I have a Dacia Logan , I want to convert it too. thumbs up!!!!
jose r, thank you. I had to google a Dacia Logan. Looks like a good candidate for an EV conversion.
Nice work, thanks for an enjoyable video (subscribed)
Keep them coming!!
Nice job on the layout and fabrication.
C.A.D. Cardboard Assisted Design, from the fellas over at Project Binky :)
Nice episode, just finished the backlog, it's a great project. Interesting to see how she does once she's complete.
Btw, on the roller, it would make your life thrice easier to do stuff with it, if you rolled yourself a wheel instead of a crank. Did that on mine, and it's a back saver.
Another tip, narrow your band saw by cutting a smidge off its back with a thin angle grinder blade, YES, it will reduce the life of the blade, but, for an unnoticeable amount of time, still, i'd do it with an older one, rather than a new one. Very effective for doing narrow bends, mine's trimmed at 8 mm vs 1.2 cm it used to be and i cut 10 cm ID pieces with very smooth results.
aserta, C.A.D that's funny. Thanks
Brilliant work buddy, I've I've really enjoyed watching the videos so far, I'm just gutted I'm going to have to wait for the next one. Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see how the car turns out.
Garry Wall, thanks
Don Walters turbune
Nice video, good quality. I have a suggestion- may have been covered but you show the motor as level, hopefully you are parrellel to the pinion of the rear end, or you will find out what harmonics out of phasing can do to a drive line- whether it's a gas engine or electric. Lots of info out there on that topic. Still a good project that is becoming very popular!
Steve Bettencourt, thank you. Yes it's been covered but I still need to check to see if I need to make any adjustments.
Great video. Thank you for all the detail in your fab process. I would like to improve my fab skills and try a project out like this some day. Thanks! wp.
Nice work, you didn't really show the angle of the driveshaft but usually straighter is not better, of course this is dependent of the pinion angle but it could cause accelerated wear in the u-joints
That little motor is even smaller than the 12a lol what's the out put?
It’s a nice design.
very helpfull! keep goin!
WOW..........nice work!
Stephen McNulty, thank you
Awesome work!
looks nice .. what motor and electronic equipment are you using sir ?
YOU SHOULD GO ONLINE AND LOOK AT GEARMOTORS. YOU WILL SEE THE C-FRANGE MOTORS ARE MOUNTED TO THE GEARBOX. I SPENT 35 YEARS AS A CONVEYOR EQUIPMENT ENGINEER AND DESIGN 1000'S OF DRIVES AND CAN'T RECALL EVER HAVING TO HAVE A FRONT MOTOR MOUNT. JUST SAYING. SOORY FOR ALL CAPS I DIDN'T NOTICE THE TEXT UNTIL I WAS FINIDHED ADDING MY 3 CENTS.
Hello Don, I just watched your series on your RX7 conversion and have been really enjoying it. I like the detail you provide and don't mind you keeping your videos longer. I am wondering what the status is of finishing your conversion? Mohamed
Excelente my friend
How did you balance the motor -flywheel-pressure plate assembly?
I didn’t, hopefully I won’t regret that later😬
lol I love the mouse patrol
What's the official name of that "aviation rubber" used? Looks very handy, would like to have some around.
aaroncake, Anti-Chafe Seal AMS3303-.032. Silicone, Black, 1" wide x 15' long. Also made in sheets. Available from aviation supply company’s like aircraft spruce and specialty.
Great job, but why are you using the original transmission? Change the differential ratio and go! In addition to reducing weight to the whole, the transmission is the weak part of the system.
hernanbongiorno, thanks for the suggestion. I think that's a doable plan and I may try that on a future build but I didn't see any other conversation being done that way. I not afraid of blazing new trails but I didn't want to drag this tooooo long.
Don Walters , how much torque and hp have the electric engine?
hernanbongiorno, around 75 HP and 110 ft-lbs of torque
Love how this build is coming along. Very impressed with the quality of your work as well as the production quality of the video. Please keep up the good work!
Quick question... the front of the motor looks like it has several mounting holes, why didn't you utilize those?
Chris Miko, thank you. I plan on creating some duct work to allow the cooling air to flow through motor to help keep the road moisture and grime out.
Don Walters I can't wait to see the rest of this build! Will we also get a build series on the K5??
Chris Miko, yes, my son and I are working on the 4bt now and plan on uploading that video soon. The rest of the conversions will have to wait till the RX-7 is finished.
30:00 you did wrong about making the support stand . Never give pressure to the cylinder of the motor it will give crack but there are holes on the edges in this motor already holes are there so connect the supporting frame to the edges of the motor. Becz on bumby roads it wilk damage or crack you electric motor cylinder
You don't want your motor to be able to lift up when you're driving so really it's not over kill
Good job, you must be experienced
Très bien. :)
very good
Noslin Sevla, thank you.
Did You dril a hole at the bottom of the cooling canal so dust and water can flow away???
didier Nieuwlandt, why yes I did!
Your motor mount covers a lot of the engine's surface area. Isn't that going to increase the risk of overheating?
Jeff Crowe, I think the AC motors run cooler then the DC motors do. Heat rise and airflow through the center hopefully will keep temps in check. I also don't think my wife won't be driving it like she stole it. I had the same thought and was thinking of cutting some cooling holes in the cradle but decided I wanted the protection from moisture and road debris instead. Time will tell. Thanks for the comment
why does everyone I've seen use the transmission ? on golf carts the motor is a direct mount to the axle. wouldn't that save time, space and weight ?
bos dad, ease of mounting the motor, the absence of a reversing circuit and the ability to gear the motor for more efficient rpm.
but im on the couch watching yours.... also my fc project is taking way longer than expected
Nicholas Greenamyer , we could be on our couches watching you work on your FC.
Just binge watched this series up to here waiting for the next episode, but I thought I'd ask what motor your using, I think i remember you saying it was an AC 50 motor but I don't think you gave a brand or any more details, I would much appreciate it if you could tell me? also sorry if you've answered this before.
It is HPEVS motor.
Krzysztof Przybek thanks man, also they are super pricey like twice as much as he paid for the car
Hello, how much will the kit for reworking Chevrolet Caprice
I wonder what the 0-100km time this car will have when completed.
Hey, I just found your video. You have a problem w the speed of your hoist and wanted a VFD
Well what you need is a PWM speed controller. I can make you one of those for not much $$
(PWM can control speed while maintaining Full Torque. IF this is a DC motor driven hoist.)
If this is an AC driven hoist then it needs to be 3phase in order to use VFD.
If it is AC single phase, I can also make you one of those.
Hello Jess, it’s a AC single phase motor 😢
@@MrRv8pilot OK AC single ph.
Is it BRUSHED or Induction?
IF brushed I can make a speed control for it.
IF Induction then speed is set by the 60Hz of Sine wave.....So, SOL ...... :-D
OR Change the motor to Brushed DC or AC
I use a 12VDC winch......
🤔 I’ll check
Awesome
This appears to be a face mount motor. I'm surprised you didn't design your motor mount to take advantage of that.
jfan4reva, The adapter plate does bolt to the face plate of the motor.
Can you provide the web links of the manufacture you bought the parts from such as electric motor and controls in the video description. Thanks
303topgun, just google it, several companies sell conversion kits.
It doesn't look like that heater will work any more.
What batteries are you planning on using?
Michael Hotker, I haven't decided yet but leaning towards Nissan Leaf batteries
Some carbon foam firefly cells please
Michael Hotker, leaning towards the Nissan Leaf battery, but still looking.
@@MrRv8pilot Are you planning on recycling Nissan Leaf cells?
Please write for me the properties of this electric car.power,voltage and R.P.M
What engine model do you use?
dc or ac ? brushless?
ali gh see intro Video, thanks for watching 😁
Professional
How many price.
Hi, great videos. I would like to know if you have completed the job. Thanks
Anderson Lima, thank you. I haven’t finished yet, but about to get started on the batteries and wiring. Stay tuned!
Is that a 4bt in the background at 34:00?
Alexander Jones, why yes it is. My boy and I are putting that in a 71 K5
Typo in the title if you needed to know now you know
You are going to need transmission oil cooler because of rpm of motor
how many watts that electric motor can deliver?
This was great. Thanks for sharing :)
James Doyle, your welcome. Thanks for watching
That's a good copy
Hi did you post more video completing your project
Farrel Rose, not yet still working on it.
What is the next episode called I cant figure it out :(
Chris/Benedict, still working on it,
Hows the EV conversion going ?
If It Ain't Broke Still Fix It, On hold for the holidays, We will get back to it soon! Thanks
Get on with it most of us watching know what is going on?
check out EVTV for ideas about batteries. Also, check out Jehu Garcia and EV WEST.
slammersbaseballorg, I subscribe to all of them. I'm looking pretty hard at the Tesla batteries from EV west. Thanks for the tip.
@14:01 I think it sounds like a HellCat Motor.
did you finish the mazda rx7 electric car ?
Franchute Ramirez Gaston, not yet still exploring battery options. I think I'm getting close.
I have the same car and I am Thinking to do the same project ... I am following you , looking forward your nexts videos
How much motor ev
how you ever convert FWD car ?
Sir which motor use
Rakesh Dubey, watch episode 1.