Hi Keith, I love the video. The Boss is a cheep skate ( me) and I am always having to chop multi pal parts out of the width of stock. I tend to use the horizontal just like this a lot. Recently, Some times it seems all about arbor clearance. I have taken to using some standard Milling strap clamps, backwards, ( with the stair steps on the work piece) and I have milled a counter slot (for a SHCS ) along the factory slot for ultra low profile work. I also buttress the stock ( at the end ) against the rotation of the saw force. .... Especially on cast iron, ( just like with the table saw on plywood with internal stress) I tap in a small wedge in the kerf. ( Oh so gentle). I find this really helps with flat ground cutters with out side relief. Some times ( if the kerf is the right size for it) I just start the threads of a drywall screw Don't forget and go back with the cutter.. On the subject of arbor clearance, i just got about a dozen of the CARR Lane style toe clamps and love them ... hard to use in your application with the through cut, but in general really help with arbor clearance on stuff to long or flimsy for a vise or vises. They are great for castings to true up a feature along a axis, Last comment, If a key stock can migrate axially, it will. We bent an arbor with the power feed, when a key moved in the bushings. Cutter stopped rotating, feed kept going. I set it up, used a short key, Long enough to be captured in the bushings next to the cutter, then off set the key ways in the second adjacent bushings, but some how the lined up and key shifted. Full length from here on out. Sorry.... rambling to long. Be safe.
Thanks for the video! In your case, when the feed is small and the cutter has a radial beat, the cutting process is uneven. My teacher recommended doing something a little different. Cut with a small indentation, but with a large feed. In this case, all the cutting edges will work and blunt at the same time. Due to the large number of teeth, you can include a large feed and will cut instead of "scrape". For example, cut steel 2.5mm recess, feed160-200mm / min. Dural is usually a depth of 5-7.5 mm and a feed of 315 mm / min. this is for 125 cutters and middle tooth. The size of the tooth should accommodate the chip being formed. Less recess = smaller tooth can be put = more speed and time to re-sharpen. Well, you need to cool and remove the chips (I think it's clear). Thanks again for the video Mykhailo
Another option is to use flange washers on each side of the cutter. They do a good job of minimizing harmonic distortion.. Keep these great videos coming, I really enjoy your work.
Best way to test something - if you're confident it's right, make the test something which might be productive. If it's a success, you have a workable part ! Same as I say to my computer customers, want to test the printer, make it print something you want to print. Nice video, nice machine. Looking forward to more on this.
@@millomweb ......Or.use what you have. Sometimes on TH-cam we are spoiled by manufactures loading down these guys with all of the best stuff. It is refreshing to see a "real world" situation now and then.
Stagger tooth cutters are great. I have sharpened maybe hundreds of them. The key is getting the finger set correctly to get the left and right teeth the same highth .
Hi Keith this just popped up on my feed and gave me an idea on how to cut up some cast iron salvaged from a railway workshop. I was not looking forward to a hacksaw session, mind it would save putting the heater on in the workshop
I appreciate the little "extra" you always bring to your videos. You could have ended the matter after the successful cut. But you chose to add a short expansion on selecting cutting wheels and what the pluses and minuses are. Thank you... JM
So pleased the machine worked "straight out of the box" for you. Mind you, if it hadn't we would have gotten a refurb video series? Win-Win either way. Thanks for the videos Keith
*Fun for you, Keith. I could tell from the beginning by your voice. But go check the end and see how your eyes are twinkling, like a kid at Christmas. Who would have thunk it!*
Good video Mr Rucker. I think I recall watching this mill in action a few years back but I can't find my comment. I was fascinated by the 'steady rest' part of this setup. Reminded me of Abom79 large lathe job.
My shop teacher back around 1970 had us keep the overarm in for a short span supporting the tool to minimize vibration and howling. Never did slitting, haven't touched a horiz mill since then, and the school mill was about 1/3 the size of yours.
Your new "inverted metal cutting table saw", is awesome! Very quiet and smooth running. Perhaps another set of 2 clamps on the small piece vs the single one in the center would have cut down on the chatter a bit. The crosshatch pattern looked great. As soon as you first showed it, I thought the same thing. Thanks for the Friday video!
Adam's k&t has a backlash eliminating nut, check if you have it and see if you can do the ultimate milling and save the cutters and get better finishes
Dumb question...... why wouldn’t you move the X axis down to the other end of the piece and feed the table L to R?? That wouldn’t be a climb milling cut and the pressure would be down against the table...... what am I misunderstanding here???? Thx Keith. Love your channel. 🤘🏻😁🤘🏻
Most awesome table saw ever made. :) Seriously though, such a beefy machine! sheesh Need some mounting clamp alternatives for tiny stuff like this. Then again, this was just a test. Most stuff will be MUCH larger. Very cool to see this awesome piece of machinery in the shop. Cool it's same family of the little brother we've seen so much of.
Good job . It would have taken long to do it at the vintage workshop if you take the time to drive there and back so it has turned out quicker the way you did it.
We're always looking for excuses to use new toys. I drive past the former Kearney and Trecker factory (I think the #2 building is all that's left) nearly every day. Thanks for helping keep Milwaukee iron alive!
Great to see the new machine being put to good use. I was surprised to see you only put a single clamp on the thin side of the cut off. In my experience that's just asking for it to pivot into the cutter then it come free.
I have an MT 5 dead center in pretty good shape. If it would help with the set up of your horizontal boring machine (or any thing else for that matter) I'll send it to you.
Going by the arm supports going in and out, i think the removable catch on the left (as you look at the machine from the front) might be on its way out. There's that backlash in the gear.
One more "chatter amelioration" possibility: As you noted, you are conventional milling (for very good reasons) which (as you also noted) tends to lift the work away from the table. It might have cut down the chatter if there had been 3 (or even 4) clamps on each side of the work.
Keith, have you double checked the alignment of the table swivel to the spindle? I missed that when I initially trammed my universal. It created the same harmonic sound on some cuts, and then shattered a cutter on a different cut. I got educated that day.
When you use any machine to it's fullest extent of different functions at times you can in jest ask yourself why do you have many of the other machines you have but you must keep the iron deficiency in check!
My career was in the insurance business. Wholesale (vs. retail or agency) end. Casualty, including Liability, lines. Many of the products that were commonplace in the early '60s are not that well known today. As a trainee, one of the coverages studied was the Owners, Landlords and Tenants form for simple business premises liability exposures. It was commonly referred to as OL&T coverage. A senior exec must have stepped on an even more senior toe and was therefore made to teach this form to us pups. He was a delightful Texan who had lived in San Francisco for at least a generation but kept his Texas drawl and eye-twinkle. He always called the form an "an oil and tea policy." I never referred to it in any other way in homage and appreciation for the things he taught us and the way he taught them.
James Spencer Why not? I’ll be 78 on my next birthday. Back in the late 1950’s when I worked in a shop we almost always used flood cooling while using our horizontal mills. Soluble oil....it looked like milk.
@@tomcross6567 I was hoping you were going to respond by saying that you learned machining from Billy Joel. Lol. By the way, from my limited knowledge of machining, you don't "need" flood coolant for cast iron because the excess carbon acts as a dry lubricant.
James Spencer what you say is somewhat true. But I still say flooding the cutter with soluble oil not only keeps the cutter “cool”, but gives a bit lubrication and cleans the cut as well. To each his own.
As you lock down the arbor you should hold torque on the cutter, once it is loaded the cutter holds the key. Sheering a key with a slitting saw is pretty easy to do and can result in a bit of fun getting a 1/2 sheered key out and disassembling the arbor.
He hasn't checked out the coolant system on this machine. This his first time using it, but he did say when he got it that the PO used the pump for cutting oil.
Eric, I think Keith has a supply of continuous cast iron, it's not extruded in the traditional sense, but the molten iron is poured into a horizontal water cooled die, as soon as a plug of solid iron is formed it's slowly pulled out and the juggling between cooling and pul rate begins. If you pull too fast there can be too much molten core and the wall of solid metal can break and burst molten iron into the water cooling. I once heard the bang when that happened to a one foot diameter copper billet burst. It lifted the foundry doors of their runners. I was probably fifty yards away in another building at the time. Metal working can be fun!
He is using Dura-Bar. It is a premium, engineered cast iron that is rather expensive but first rate material. Here is the product.... www.dura-bar.com/
Probably a dumb question: if you are concerned about making an upward cut through the work, why not turn the cutter around and run the arbor in the other direction?
He discussed why he chose 'upward' cutting (aka conventional milling) vs 'downward' cutting (climb milling). Each have their advantages and disadvantages.
hey have you ever taken a lead test? I bought a new snatch block and it had a sticker on it saying danger of lead dust. that got me thinking pretty much every metal you machine has some lead in it I wonder how much you have been really exposed over the years
Lead is dangerous only if it gets inside your body. And in machining, if you machine to the point where things get into airborne dust, then, you're doing it wrong.
New machine itch. Thanks for sharing your first cut.
Hi Keith, I love the video. The Boss is a cheep skate ( me) and I am always having to chop multi pal parts out of the width of stock. I tend to use the horizontal just like this a lot. Recently, Some times it seems all about arbor clearance. I have taken to using some standard Milling strap clamps, backwards, ( with the stair steps on the work piece) and I have milled a counter slot (for a SHCS ) along the factory slot for ultra low profile work. I also buttress the stock ( at the end ) against the rotation of the saw force.
.... Especially on cast iron, ( just like with the table saw on plywood with internal stress) I tap in a small wedge in the kerf. ( Oh so gentle). I find this really helps with flat ground cutters with out side relief. Some times ( if the kerf is the right size for it) I just start the threads of a drywall screw Don't forget and go back with the cutter..
On the subject of arbor clearance, i just got about a dozen of the CARR Lane style toe clamps and love them ... hard to use in your application with the through cut, but in general really help with arbor clearance on stuff to long or flimsy for a vise or vises. They are great for castings to true up a feature along a axis,
Last comment, If a key stock can migrate axially, it will. We bent an arbor with the power feed, when a key moved in the bushings. Cutter stopped rotating, feed kept going. I set it up, used a short key, Long enough to be captured in the bushings next to the cutter, then off set the key ways in the second adjacent bushings, but some how the lined up and key shifted. Full length from here on out.
Sorry.... rambling to long. Be safe.
Thanks for the video!
In your case, when the feed is small and the cutter has a radial beat, the cutting process is uneven.
My teacher recommended doing something a little different. Cut with a small indentation, but with a large feed. In this case, all the cutting edges will work and blunt at the same time.
Due to the large number of teeth, you can include a large feed and will cut instead of "scrape".
For example, cut steel 2.5mm recess, feed160-200mm / min. Dural is usually a depth of 5-7.5 mm and a feed of 315 mm / min. this is for 125 cutters and middle tooth.
The size of the tooth should accommodate the chip being formed. Less recess = smaller tooth can be put = more speed and time to re-sharpen.
Well, you need to cool and remove the chips (I think it's clear).
Thanks again for the video
Mykhailo
Thanks Keith, for sharing the maiden voyage with us!
A pleasant way to start the day!
Another option is to use flange washers on each side of the cutter. They do a good job of minimizing harmonic distortion.. Keep these great videos coming, I really enjoy your work.
Best way to test something - if you're confident it's right, make the test something which might be productive. If it's a success, you have a workable part ! Same as I say to my computer customers, want to test the printer, make it print something you want to print. Nice video, nice machine. Looking forward to more on this.
Hahahahaha! Wow! Brought back a lot of memories watching you! I spent a lot of time on a mill just like that one. Thank you!
Keith, Nice to see your new bigger mill is running great, anxious to see more videos on your plainer, thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
Two things accomplished,checked out the NEW TOY and got to play with the NEW MACHINE. Another job DONE!!!!!
Keith, thanks for explaining about the straight and staggered tooth cutters.
Eric
There's a lot of variety out there ! It's knowing when to use which that matters !
@@millomweb ......Or.use what you have. Sometimes on TH-cam we are spoiled by manufactures loading down these guys with all of the best stuff. It is refreshing to see a "real world" situation now and then.
@@paulcopeland9035 Best description of our miller tooling is 'random' ! via several purchases of box of assorted....
YOU are having fun, Sir! Good on ya!
Stagger tooth cutters are
great. I have sharpened maybe hundreds of them. The key is getting
the finger set correctly to get the left and right teeth the same highth .
Love that horizontal mill. Don't see many of these nowadays. But they still have use I believe.
Thanks Keith for sharing this with us. Great show.
Nice machine! Looks like it will serve you well!
Ahhh...Friday morning, a cup of tea and a chat with my buddy Keith - what could be better?
😎 make that Saturday evening and with a cup of steaming coffee!
Hi Keith this just popped up on my feed and gave me an idea on how to cut up some cast iron salvaged from a railway workshop. I was not looking forward to a hacksaw session, mind it would save putting the heater on in the workshop
An old machine in very good condition. Thanks.
Your saw cuts a smoother and straight cut than a band saw.
I appreciate the little "extra" you always bring to your videos. You could have ended the matter after the successful cut. But you chose to add a short expansion on selecting cutting wheels and what the pluses and minuses are. Thank you... JM
So pleased the machine worked "straight out of the box" for you. Mind you, if it hadn't we would have gotten a refurb video series? Win-Win either way. Thanks for the videos Keith
I need to get caught up on Keith
Enjoy Your New Toy
Nice machine. I was a bit disappointed that you didn't do a little dance at the end like Winky's Workshop...
*Fun for you, Keith. I could tell from the beginning by your voice. But go check the end and see how your eyes are twinkling, like a kid at Christmas. Who would have thunk it!*
Good video Mr Rucker. I think I recall watching this mill in action a few years back but I can't find my comment. I was fascinated by the 'steady rest' part of this setup. Reminded me of Abom79 large lathe job.
THANK YOU...for sharing, Enjoyed.
I love how you went so far out of your way to use that beast.
I'm glad it looks like it's pretty tight and ready to go to work!
As apprentice was always told to key bearing on arbour. Just in case bearing seized in the support.
My shop teacher back around 1970 had us keep the overarm in for a short span supporting the tool to minimize vibration and howling. Never did slitting, haven't touched a horiz mill since then, and the school mill was about 1/3 the size of yours.
As a wood worker, I would hate to see a kick back on that beast! Really enjoying your channel
57rpm with a 6 inch cutter = 1.02mph. You'll be just fine.
Men, and our Toys !!!
Excellent! You rip cut it!
Good morning
Hiya Keith
Good morning Keith
Thanks for sharing!
Nice machine Keith! Looking forward to seeing it used on other tasks. 👍
I think it did a good job of all in one cut.
Not so much a table saw, but a radial arm saw. Thanks for the video. Jon
very good mr rucker
Your new "inverted metal cutting table saw", is awesome! Very quiet and smooth running. Perhaps another set of 2 clamps on the small piece vs the single one in the center would have cut down on the chatter a bit. The crosshatch pattern looked great. As soon as you first showed it, I thought the same thing. Thanks for the Friday video!
As every, a very instructive video.
Adam's k&t has a backlash eliminating nut, check if you have it and see if you can do the ultimate milling and save the cutters and get better finishes
The machines made in the 40's didn't have that advanced double adjustable nut. I have a 1942 2HL baby brother to Keith's.
@@chuckinwyoming8526 yeah I think Adam's one is some decades newer
Dumb question...... why wouldn’t you move the X axis down to the other end of the piece and feed the table L to R?? That wouldn’t be a climb milling cut and the pressure would be down against the table...... what am I misunderstanding here???? Thx Keith. Love your channel. 🤘🏻😁🤘🏻
Hi Keith,
New machine working well...
Have a good weekend
Paul,,
Looks like a keeper! Nice.
Most awesome table saw ever made. :) Seriously though, such a beefy machine! sheesh
Need some mounting clamp alternatives for tiny stuff like this. Then again, this was just a test. Most stuff will be MUCH larger.
Very cool to see this awesome piece of machinery in the shop. Cool it's same family of the little brother we've seen so much of.
Hi it’s Stacie! I really like this video! Wow! What a machine you have there keith! That blade did a great job! Awesome stuff there!
Good job . It would have taken long to do it at the vintage workshop if you take the time to drive there and back so it has turned out quicker the way you did it.
Thanks for the video😎
We're always looking for excuses to use new toys.
I drive past the former Kearney and Trecker factory (I think the #2 building is all that's left) nearly every day. Thanks for helping keep Milwaukee iron alive!
Keith, enjoyed!!!!!
Great to see the new machine being put to good use. I was surprised to see you only put a single clamp on the thin side of the cut off. In my experience that's just asking for it to pivot into the cutter then it come free.
Always fun getting to use a new machine!. Surprised on that big part though you didn't use the Lucas. :-)
I have an MT 5 dead center in pretty good shape. If it would help with the set up of your horizontal boring machine (or any thing else for that matter) I'll send it to you.
Going by the arm supports going in and out, i think the removable catch on the left (as you look at the machine from the front) might be on its way out. There's that backlash in the gear.
One more "chatter amelioration" possibility: As you noted, you are conventional milling (for very good reasons) which (as you also noted) tends to lift the work away from the table. It might have cut down the chatter if there had been 3 (or even 4) clamps on each side of the work.
Also the arbor is way too long. Shorter one would flex less.
Keith, have you double checked the alignment of the table swivel to the spindle? I missed that when I initially trammed my universal. It created the same harmonic sound on some cuts, and then shattered a cutter on a different cut. I got educated that day.
Seems like thicker oil would help with lubrication. WD-40 is good for making smoke.
When you use any machine to it's fullest extent of different functions at times you can in jest ask yourself why do you have many of the other machines you have but you must keep the iron deficiency in check!
It isn't the cost of the machine, it is the requirement for a boatload of accessories!
Great Video!!! Can anyone tell me how to redress a live center? Is it possible?
Would cutting oil have helped quiet it down?
Hey Keith how about using some cutting oil it will be better than using wd40
could have cut it on the band saw; but this was more fun!
Good morning from St John Parish, Louisiana 02 Oct 20.
Nice!!
I really feel like you should sell 'Put a lil Ohel on it' shirts Keith =)
My career was in the insurance business. Wholesale (vs. retail or agency) end. Casualty, including Liability, lines.
Many of the products that were commonplace in the early '60s are not that well known today. As a trainee, one of the coverages studied was the Owners, Landlords and Tenants form for simple business premises liability exposures. It was commonly referred to as OL&T coverage.
A senior exec must have stepped on an even more senior toe and was therefore made to teach this form to us pups. He was a delightful Texan who had lived in San Francisco for at least a generation but kept his Texas drawl and eye-twinkle. He always called the form an "an oil and tea policy." I never referred to it in any other way in homage and appreciation for the things he taught us and the way he taught them.
Are the arms on the kearney & Trecker solid cylinders?
Before I got better equipment, I used a table saw to cut aluminum all the time. (not recommended!)
A fine use for a fine old machine. Someday the urge will overcome you and you will peel off the paint and give it a new authentic paint job....
Nothing to do with your new shop kittens but there is more than one way to skin a cat!
Im love with the smell of WD-40👃
Can the key slide under the sleeves, can it slip out from under the saw?
Keith....do you not have “flood cooling” on that machine? Back when I wore a younger man’s clothes, we almost always used coolant.
You said: "Back when I wore a younger man’s clothes, we almost always used coolant". If you're an "old timer", why would you say that?
James Spencer Why not? I’ll be 78 on my next birthday. Back in the late 1950’s when I worked in a shop we almost always used flood cooling while using our horizontal mills. Soluble oil....it looked like milk.
@@tomcross6567 I was hoping you were going to respond by saying that you learned machining from Billy Joel. Lol.
By the way, from my limited knowledge of machining, you don't "need" flood coolant for cast iron because the excess carbon acts as a dry lubricant.
James Spencer what you say is somewhat true. But I still say flooding the cutter with soluble oil not only keeps the cutter “cool”, but gives a bit lubrication and cleans the cut as well. To each his own.
8:10 .. I swear I thought Keith was going to say he had an App on his iPhone for that! :)
Just a suggestion - put your lapel mic on the side you are always turning to the camera. The sounds drops off as you turn away from the mic.
And get a wind screen on it!
SAW BLADE KERF... The over size of the teeth vs the blade thickness...
would it be better if you used a shorter arbor
Nice machine Keith. How are the new kittens doing?
Chips chips and more chips wooohooo.
I've never used a horizontal mill before. What keeps that key under the cutter from migrating up and down the arbor? Just the cutting pressure itself?
As you lock down the arbor you should hold torque on the cutter, once it is loaded the cutter holds the key. Sheering a key with a slitting saw is pretty easy to do and can result in a bit of fun getting a 1/2 sheered key out and disassembling the arbor.
Chuck in Wyoming thanks for that info! Neat
Great new machine Keith! Is it true that Ductile iron has limited self lubricating properties?
Is it not better to fully flood the job with coolant rather than a sporadic squirt?
He hasn't checked out the coolant system on this machine. This his first time using it, but he did say when he got it that the PO used the pump for cutting oil.
forgive me...don't YOU have a metal cutting bandsaw? and....I wanna see the new mill work, too
Get some Lard for lube on cast iron
I wanted to see it at 30-in a min 😁
Wouldnt it actually do the exact thing you said but just the opposite about climb milling (climb under milling)
"Extruded cast iron"...so that's a thing, then.
Also, are those 2 arms hollow or solid?
Erik Bongers they are solid.
Very much solid. I've had to take mine out and boy oh boy was that fun
Eric,
I think Keith has a supply of continuous cast iron, it's not extruded in the traditional sense, but the molten iron is poured into a horizontal water cooled die, as soon as a plug of solid iron is formed it's slowly pulled out and the juggling between cooling and pul rate begins. If you pull too fast there can be too much molten core and the wall of solid metal can break and burst molten iron into the water cooling. I once heard the bang when that happened to a one foot diameter copper billet burst. It lifted the foundry doors of their runners. I was probably fifty yards away in another building at the time. Metal working can be fun!
He is using Dura-Bar. It is a premium, engineered cast iron that is rather expensive but first rate material. Here is the product.... www.dura-bar.com/
Headphone users Crank em up @ 9:35
quite the headbanger XD
I think instead of slowing down the RPM you should have sped up to dampen the harmonics.
This 3H is quieter than the 2H you had too.
I thought those flat blades were ho!low ground on the sides to give a small amount of clearance.
Probably a dumb question: if you are concerned about making an upward cut through the work, why not turn the cutter around and run the arbor in the other direction?
He discussed why he chose 'upward' cutting (aka conventional milling) vs 'downward' cutting (climb milling). Each have their advantages and disadvantages.
Ban saw? Why? :)
Just use a file to cut it... less noise!
hey have you ever taken a lead test? I bought a new snatch block and it had a sticker on it saying danger of lead dust. that got me thinking pretty much every metal you machine has some lead in it I wonder how much you have been really exposed over the years
Lead is dangerous only if it gets inside your body. And in machining, if you machine to the point where things get into airborne dust, then, you're doing it wrong.
That original paint on these older machines was lead based. Be careful stripping and repainting any tractors or machines from the 1920's to 1960's.
Some tool steels have lead added to make it easier to machine. O1 is one such tool steel.
@@millwrightrick1 - 316L stainless is another.
Nice! You going to throw a fresh coat of paint on the old girl?
The cross hatch on the cutting surface preserves you from scraping it. Just joking...