Great that you find the mill useful. It reminds me of my old Denbigh. I've never had a cutter bear on all the teeth when fitted to an arbor. Just the slightest bit of debris between the spacers will cause the arbor to bend out alignment.
Saw my old comment here, but no new content on this channel. I'll keep an eye out, but I'm already subscribed to way too many to keep track of. You had some good stuff. Take care.
@@BuildFixCreate Damian beat me to it,,,seems easy enough to make auxiliary arbor support to rplace one of the spacers.That would help with any flexing issues.
Your arbor spacers are not flat and parallel on the ends, that's why the arbor appears bent and cutter appears out of round. Could be dirty, could be dinged up, could just be cut a little out of square when they were made. It *is* possible to get one to run straight and true though!
I can see a great adventure coming, where you try to make a new arbor. Do you have a lathe? I say this is an adventure because I have tried to make parts for my machinery, and when you want precision of .0002", say, it brings up all kinds of weird issues you have to see to believe. It is a whole new skillset. But in the end, you emerge as a far better machinist, with a straighter arbor, both of which bring joy whenever you come back to the shop! You probably know this, but you may be able to meter the challenges down a little by purchasing a precision shaft of the right size. Ideally you could measure the ID's of the cutters and ask a centerless grinding shop how close a sliding fit they could make. I have seen where Blondihacks turned an MT2, and could finish it adequately on a hobby lathe. She is my go-to for tips on achieving high precision on lightly built equipment.
I love the size of your horizontal. I recently got a K&T and she takes up some space. How is the power on the SV? Based on the visible swing, I think your arbor is bent.
I'm assuming that you tightening the drawbar got edited out. My Diamond 22M is about the same size layout. Motor and step pulleys are on the right, power feed on the left. B&S #9 as well.
Horizontal milling cutters almost never hit on all teeth, it's purely luck of the draw because nothing in the system is perfect. That last one is a bit excessive, it's possible someone re-ground it free hand. You can make a simple spring indexing finger that clamps to the overarm support on the mill that engages the teeth on the cutter. With that you can use a small grinder on the opposite side of the arbor to regrind the teeth.
Good job. Try measuring end TIR without the overarm support and with spacers torqued up. Measure with various amounts of torque to compare the effect of strain on radial and lateral run-out.
Can you provide the dimensions (length from the flange to the nut) of the arbor? I have the same mill, but I need to get a new arbor or make one. Thanks for posting this video...
Well Done! That is a nice little machine! You did a great job on the refurbish. Is that a one inch arbor? Looking forward to more jobs done on that mill! Good work Chris!
Is there any possibility that you can get a photo of the name plate for the motor? I found that the mill came with a 1-hp 3 phase motor or a 1hp single phase motor. I am trying to figure what I need to purchase since I have nothing to work with. If there is no name plate, what size shaft does the motor have? Any help would be appreciated
Not it’s not. I was surprised at first that it’s not threaded but if you try to get out a B&S 9 taper it is not easy. So I think it grips really well on it’s own.
@@BuildFixCreate I have a Brown and Sharp 2A Universal Mill and the Vertical Head on it is B&S 10 and it is VERY difficult to remove tooling from the taper. I should also mention it has a single arm for horizontal milling like your machine has. Great machine from after 1912 till perhaps 1926 is all I have learned about this flat belt drive machine. Also have the dividing head and change gears that came with it. Great old Machine, I love it. Cheers from John, Australia.
Do you have or can you get the motor information for your machine? I just purchased one of these and it does not have a motor installed at this time. I found some literature that this machine may have come with a 1hp single phase motor, but I do not know what style of motor it came with when I go to buy a new one. Thanks, Chris
Don’t know if you still monitor comments but I just purchased an identical machine that I plan to restore. Did you find a supplier for such things as leadscrew nuts, etc. Also how many horsepower is your motor? Thanks .
I had no luck with supply of parts. Maybe you could get lucky on eBay if someone is parting one out. Likely you will need to make parts yourself. My motor is 3/4hp - 3 phase
You and machine did a great job nice chips and video keep up great video keep them coming
Thank you!
Great that you find the mill useful. It reminds me of my old Denbigh. I've never had a cutter bear on all the teeth when fitted to an arbor. Just the slightest bit of debris between the spacers will cause the arbor to bend out alignment.
Gotcha. I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect. Thanks Mark!
Nice job on the T nuts. I've enjoyed your videos, keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching!
Just found this channel and really enjoy the content. I know it's been around two years since you lasted posted, but I hope to see more
Saw my old comment here, but no new content on this channel. I'll keep an eye out, but I'm already subscribed to way too many to keep track of. You had some good stuff. Take care.
Very cool machine work, thanks for posting
I do that on my 3 foot lathe. I mount the cutter between centres, having turned it on the same lathe so it has to be central
Wow, what a nice job you did on that machine!!
Thanks Scott!
Look forward to seeing the "Build a new adjustable arbor and support bracket vid". Another great job.
Haha yes you are probably right. I may make a 1” diameter arbor so I can find cutters easier.
@@BuildFixCreate Damian beat me to it,,,seems easy enough to make auxiliary arbor support to rplace one of the spacers.That would help with any flexing issues.
Your arbor spacers are not flat and parallel on the ends, that's why the arbor appears bent and cutter appears out of round. Could be dirty, could be dinged up, could just be cut a little out of square when they were made. It *is* possible to get one to run straight and true though!
I was hoping you can speak with me regarding my Sheldon mill and the refurbishing of it.
I can see a great adventure coming, where you try to make a new arbor. Do you have a lathe?
I say this is an adventure because I have tried to make parts for my machinery, and when you want precision of .0002", say, it brings up all kinds of weird issues you have to see to believe. It is a whole new skillset. But in the end, you emerge as a far better machinist, with a straighter arbor, both of which bring joy whenever you come back to the shop!
You probably know this, but you may be able to meter the challenges down a little by purchasing a precision shaft of the right size. Ideally you could measure the ID's of the cutters and ask a centerless grinding shop how close a sliding fit they could make. I have seen where Blondihacks turned an MT2, and could finish it adequately on a hobby lathe. She is my go-to for tips on achieving high precision on lightly built equipment.
Very nice work
Gday, beautiful milling machine mate, great video, take care
Thank you!
My first view of your work, great job, try a fine stone and hone the cutters, does wonders on reamers and endmills.
Nice work.
Thanks!
I love the size of your horizontal. I recently got a K&T and she takes up some space. How is the power on the SV? Based on the visible swing, I think your arbor is bent.
I'm assuming that you tightening the drawbar got edited out. My Diamond 22M is about the same size layout. Motor and step pulleys are on the right, power feed on the left. B&S #9 as well.
Horizontal milling cutters almost never hit on all teeth, it's purely luck of the draw because nothing in the system is perfect. That last one is a bit excessive, it's possible someone re-ground it free hand. You can make a simple spring indexing finger that clamps to the overarm support on the mill that engages the teeth on the cutter. With that you can use a small grinder on the opposite side of the arbor to regrind the teeth.
Thanks for the idea!
Good job. Try measuring end TIR without the overarm support and with spacers torqued up. Measure with various amounts of torque to compare the effect of strain on radial and lateral run-out.
Thanks I’ll try that
Can we get some more videos milling?
Cool, looks like my NGF-110)))
Can you provide the dimensions (length from the flange to the nut) of the arbor? I have the same mill, but I need to get a new arbor or make one. Thanks for posting this video...
Well Done! That is a nice little machine! You did a great job on the refurbish. Is that a one inch arbor? Looking forward to more jobs done on that mill! Good work Chris!
Thanks Lee! It’s a 7/8” arbor
Is there any possibility that you can get a photo of the name plate for the motor? I found that the mill came with a 1-hp 3 phase motor or a 1hp single phase motor. I am trying to figure what I need to purchase since I have nothing to work with. If there is no name plate, what size shaft does the motor have? Any help would be appreciated
Other than the noise , are you happy with the performance of your VFD ? Nice little machine, thanks for the video .
Yeah besides the fan noise it’s working great. Thanks!
Is the arbor threaded for a drawbar? This would help with the rigidity.
Not it’s not. I was surprised at first that it’s not threaded but if you try to get out a B&S 9 taper it is not easy. So I think it grips really well on it’s own.
@@BuildFixCreate I have a Brown and Sharp 2A Universal Mill and the Vertical Head on it is B&S 10 and it is VERY difficult to remove tooling from the taper. I should also mention it has a single arm for horizontal milling like your machine has. Great machine from after 1912 till perhaps 1926 is all I have learned about this flat belt drive machine. Also have the dividing head and change gears that came with it. Great old Machine, I love it. Cheers from John, Australia.
Thats cool i need one of them for my amateur hack channel lol
Do you have or can you get the motor information for your machine? I just purchased one of these and it does not have a motor installed at this time. I found some literature that this machine may have come with a 1hp single phase motor, but I do not know what style of motor it came with when I go to buy a new one.
Thanks,
Chris
Mine has a 3/4hp 220v 3phase motor. I’m sure you could get one that was single phase and it should work. I had to get a vfd in order to run mine.
Can you post the manual of the machine?? I have the same machine and some problems
Look on vintage machinery website. The manual is on there
Use some cutting oil! Your cutters will love you for it!
It’s on there just not drenched in it. Thanks for watching
Don’t know if you still monitor comments but I just purchased an identical machine that I plan to restore. Did you find a supplier for such things as leadscrew nuts, etc. Also how many horsepower is your motor? Thanks .
I had no luck with supply of parts. Maybe you could get lucky on eBay if someone is parting one out. Likely you will need to make parts yourself. My motor is 3/4hp - 3 phase
What size cutters you need?
I’m keep my eye out for anything with a 7/8” diameter hole because that’s what arbor I have
@@BuildFixCreate I have 1" & 1.25
Look on Ebay used lathe tooling, I get alot of tooling from them. Good luck.
They always told us start with a sharp tool. If its not sharp sharpen it.
And I thought I had nothing but old junk in my shop. I have a bench master with both very and horizontal attachments.
Gg