If you have a problem mainly while sitting in traffic, It could likely be your fans Not cycling on when the temperature / pressure reaches the set threshold. With your engine warmed up, lift your hood and watch to see if your fans cycle on and off. If they're not cycling on and off, then you have either a bad sensor and/or bad fan motor. Also, verify that the level in your Reservoir Rises and Falls as the coolant goes from cold to normal temperature; if it's not, then you likely have a faulty radiator cap and it is not opening and closing at the set pressure and allowing coolant to flow between the radiator and coolant tank. If those check good then you may have a faulty thermostat or your water pump vanes are corroding and not moving water sufficiently between your engine block and radiator. If all checks out good, then you may just have to continue to go through the burping process a number of times until your coolant level is at the proper level. The most important step to verify is to make sure that the point that you're burping the air from, normally the radiator cap if you're not using the bleed port, is the highest point of the coolant system. Just keep repeating the process making sure that you keep your coolant at the proper level and the overflow tank/ Reservoir, being that this is where the system will bleed out the air and also pull coolant from. If this happens constantly, even while driving, then it could be as previously posted, that you have a blown head gasket and exhaust gases are getting into the coolant and overheating it. But that is a much more involved process than the previous mentioned ones
That means your head gasket is blown or bad ive watched other vids my pathfinder does the same shit, so yeah unfortunately its most likely a bad head gasket. Exhaust gases are entering the coolant system and super heating the coolant you will never get it to stop until you get the heads machined and new gaskets
Do it like an older car where you lift up the radiator cap to the highest point and run it to operating temp w heat on high. The mistake people make is thinking at idle the car staying at temp means it’s good which is wrong!! The VQ is pretty efficient at getting rid of heat(aluminum block) sooo the car will not get hot at idle you have to hold it at 2k/2500rpm steady for a minute or two until the thermostat opens and the water actually flows and circulates. People will idle the car open the rad cap and think it’s good and in some cases ya but 90% of the time you gta get the coolant/water moving. A lot of the time I’ll put it up run it get it hot then pull it down drive it around block and put it back up while it cools bc it helps move any air pockets when it’s cooling off at an angle. Once cool again open the cap and run it again and I’ve never seen it not work unless there is another issue.
Thanks Andy- aI also have a 2008 M35X - They replace the radiator and thermostat for me already but the car is still running bight temperature not nitrogen to the point of overheating? Any suggestions- Do you have a shop? Any help will be appreciated- Thanks
@@A.R.K.Fab.1 Hi Andy- Sorry for the confusion- I was just saying that I have a 2008 M35X where the temperature gauge is recording high then goes back to normal then high again but never to the point of overheating completely- This issue started almost right after they replace the radiator in the car. My question is would it be that they never “Burp the radiators” Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks again
so basically just open the bleeder valve and let it run like normal? i just dont have heat at idle. the ol radiator cap trick didnt work like my buick :D
Ya basically and make sure it’s on flat ground. Everyone lifts it up in front and uses the valve and wonders why it didn’t work. The hrhas the bleeder up front bc they ran that metal coolant hose on the passenger side through the center under the lower manifold. So it’s up front next to the rad cap so it works if you lift it.. not a DE and pretty sure at least early rev ups use the de style
@@A.R.K.Fab.1 yeah i can make it flat. its just werid these nissans are like that. but whatever. I noticed you have to use silicate and borate free coolant as well. i had to change the knock sensor under all the manifolds last winter. i think just enough air got into it, to make the heat blow cold at idle.
If you have a problem mainly while sitting in traffic, It could likely be your fans Not cycling on when the temperature / pressure reaches the set threshold. With your engine warmed up, lift your hood and watch to see if your fans cycle on and off. If they're not cycling on and off, then you have either a bad sensor and/or bad fan motor. Also, verify that the level in your Reservoir Rises and Falls as the coolant goes from cold to normal temperature; if it's not, then you likely have a faulty radiator cap and it is not opening and closing at the set pressure and allowing coolant to flow between the radiator and coolant tank. If those check good then you may have a faulty thermostat or your water pump vanes are corroding and not moving water sufficiently between your engine block and radiator. If all checks out good, then you may just have to continue to go through the burping process a number of times until your coolant level is at the proper level. The most important step to verify is to make sure that the point that you're burping the air from, normally the radiator cap if you're not using the bleed port, is the highest point of the coolant system. Just keep repeating the process making sure that you keep your coolant at the proper level and the overflow tank/ Reservoir, being that this is where the system will bleed out the air and also pull coolant from. If this happens constantly, even while driving, then it could be as previously posted, that you have a blown head gasket and exhaust gases are getting into the coolant and overheating it. But that is a much more involved process than the previous mentioned ones
th-cam.com/video/TRx9PB-C8eU/w-d-xo.html, Nissan/ Infinity Test modes to cycle low and high speeds of the coolant fans, Hope this helps
I have bled my car and it still overheats while driving it but not on idle and it’s just driving me crazy
Same
Me too bro ever figure it out?
That means your head gasket is blown or bad ive watched other vids my pathfinder does the same shit, so yeah unfortunately its most likely a bad head gasket. Exhaust gases are entering the coolant system and super heating the coolant you will never get it to stop until you get the heads machined and new gaskets
open the bleeder valve fill it up with coolant .
Could be the fans
Mine don’t have the bleeder it has the samething yours have how do I bleed it
Do it like an older car where you lift up the radiator cap to the highest point and run it to operating temp w heat on high. The mistake people make is thinking at idle the car staying at temp means it’s good which is wrong!! The VQ is pretty efficient at getting rid of heat(aluminum block) sooo the car will not get hot at idle you have to hold it at 2k/2500rpm steady for a minute or two until the thermostat opens and the water actually flows and circulates. People will idle the car open the rad cap and think it’s good and in some cases ya but 90% of the time you gta get the coolant/water moving. A lot of the time I’ll put it up run it get it hot then pull it down drive it around block and put it back up while it cools bc it helps move any air pockets when it’s cooling off at an angle. Once cool again open the cap and run it again and I’ve never seen it not work unless there is another issue.
Thanks Andy- aI also have a 2008 M35X - They replace the radiator and thermostat for me already but the car is still running bight temperature not nitrogen to the point of overheating? Any suggestions- Do you have a shop? Any help will be appreciated- Thanks
Can you fix the typos so I know what the question says… lol idk what you are asking
@@A.R.K.Fab.1 Hi Andy- Sorry for the confusion- I was just saying that I have a 2008 M35X where the temperature gauge is recording high then goes back to normal then high again but never to the point of overheating completely- This issue started almost right after they replace the radiator in the car. My question is would it be that they never “Burp the radiators”
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks again
thanks Andy🤙🏼
Do you know if a 2012 Altima has a bleeding valve ?
If it’s a 6cyl then yes just located different and not sure on the 4cyl but knowing Nissan there’s probably a valve you just gta locate it
@@A.R.K.Fab.1 thank you very much for the info really appreciate it 🙏
so basically just open the bleeder valve and let it run like normal? i just dont have heat at idle. the ol radiator cap trick didnt work like my buick :D
Ya basically and make sure it’s on flat ground. Everyone lifts it up in front and uses the valve and wonders why it didn’t work. The hrhas the bleeder up front bc they ran that metal coolant hose on the passenger side through the center under the lower manifold. So it’s up front next to the rad cap so it works if you lift it.. not a DE and pretty sure at least early rev ups use the de style
@@A.R.K.Fab.1 yeah i can make it flat. its just werid these nissans are like that. but whatever. I noticed you have to use silicate and borate free coolant as well. i had to change the knock sensor under all the manifolds last winter. i think just enough air got into it, to make the heat blow cold at idle.