Great video. Thanks for attempting to demystify the various solid tubing dimesions and fittings. There seems to be very little information on this from the manufactuers and your video was exactly what I needed to help resolve some of the piping mismatch issues I've been runing into. Would love to see a follow-up that explains the difference between the brown, blue, grey and black barbed fittings as there seems to be some key differences between each manufacturer and their color systems.
You're right about the colors. Personally I can't remember, so i just check the specs each time i buy a product and write the info on the bag with a sharpie in big print, lol. I go through a lot of drippers, so i just leave them in the bag. For other small fittings like microspray heads, i use small tupperware containers and write the specs on the top. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for your video. I spent money on purchasing the brown 1/2 inch tubing that was predrilled with holes every so many inches apart. What I nightmare! The tubing does not bend well and is reinforced where the drip holes were previously put in. I purchased the Rainbird kit in a bucket with most of the parts that I think I will need. Could I go directly from the timer on the faucet by using an adapter and running the 1/4 inch tubing directly around the plants? I found it necessary to purchase a pressure regulator as well, as the water pressure made a projectile out of the end cap (LOL). Appreciate your taking the time to show us the tools and how to use them correctly. Wish I had seen your video first. ❤
Hi TS, sorry to hear that you didn't have great experience. YET. We'll get you there and enjoying the benefits of an automatic drip system. First, the 1/2" tubing with emitters is designed to be pretty rigid and used in applications for straight runs and large, sweeping curves. The 1/4" tubing is much better for smaller areas and more bending. You definitely need a pressure reducer/filter to begin with. If you have several pots or areas of plants, you can use a solid 1/2" tubing as your supply line, then plug in a run of 1/4" dripline where you need it.
Good info. I'm currently installing an irrigation system on my tree farm. Adding about 5,000 feet of drip line. The tip about using 1-in PVC for the line ends instead of the black "figure 8" terminators will be especially useful. Thanks for the vid.
You're welcome. Best of luck on the tree farm. I actually learned the PVC ring trick on a blueberry farm install. Definitely helps to find the end for flushing.
Great video! Which brand tubing (both 1/2" and 1/4") do you recommend? These things will remain in the sun for 5-10 yrs and need to be durable. thanks!
Forgive the late reply, just seeing a few older comments. But any of the major brands are really durable. Netafim, Rain Bird, Hunter, Toro, I've used them all. Sometimes the products you get at hardware stores aren't quite as good as what you get from an irrigation supply retailer or website.
Do you have a video that talks about either cutting the 1/2 inch supply tube to add a compression (this is a full cut and 3-way {T} for every emitter) 3 way (T) 1/2 x1/2 x 1/4 and from the 1/4" your micro tube goes to the emitter, VS a puncture the 1/2" tube to connect the micro (1/4") tube?
I don't think I ever talk about that. It's definitely a possibility, but it seems inefficient. Is there a reason to do it that way? I'm legit asking, because I know different places use different methods, and I'm always interested in hearing better ways of doing things.
@@Proirrigationtraining With no experience with this; I was just looking at the difference there might be in flow. One way, the tube is punctured and dimpled (though the dimple probably pops back out?) I see the 1/4" connector has penetrated the tube 1/2 of it's diameter, each connector doing the same. I looked at the system for cutting and using a 1/2" x 1/2" w/1/4" T and the flow seemed more open. Maybe giving a more even delivery. That is just me picturing the flow through both systems. Thinking trouble shooting, repairs, and possibility for an increasing pressure a little, with the more open tubing. ??
@@mollycasey39 You're correct in one way. The emitters that are in the stream of water inside the pipe are definitely causing turbulence and friction loss. At higher pressure and flow rates this would be a problem, but not really at the rates used in drip systems. Another point though, is the turbulence thus friction loss that would be created at the edge of every Tee fitting in your scenario. That friction loss is usually around 10% of the total pipe friction loss, but with that many Tees, you would probably triple the friction loss in that zone. Just a round guess, it could be calculated though.
I just got plantet a Arbor vitae hedge that's aprox 35 meters in lenght. (75 plants). In the middle it's giong down a slope with a hight difference about 3,5 meters. The slop is about 40%. I was told it needed a lot of water the first two years and I was recomended to get a soaking hose to make sure every plant get enough water. After installing this hose I have problem with no soaking in the slope, only on the flat surfaces. I therefore wonder if a drip system could be better to make even pressure along all the plants, even in the slope? Any tips for me on how I can get a reliable system up and running?
So sorry that I'm just now seeing this comment. Usually, soaker hose has a very high flow rate. It may be possible that you're running out of water before it can make it to the sloped part of the zone. You may want to switch to a dripline product or a solid tubing with drippers just over the root zones. I would suggest dripline with the lowest flow rate possible, usually .4 or .6 gallons per hour and check valves to keep the water from draining out the lowest areas after shutoff.
I know what you mean. Drip seems simple enough. But there's a lot of variation and nuance in all the parts available. My videos are made for training field technicians so I pack in as much information as I can. A technician running 3 - 5 appointments a day will see all the different parts and crazy configurations.
I don't use heat in any way or recommend it. BUT, I get a lot of comments from people who seem to use heat guns or torches with no problems. Just be careful that you don't melt a thin place in the tubing.
I am using rigid ldpe pipe for mainline with my netafim drippers staked into it. It is leaking from the holes. Do I need more Flexi line instead of rigid for the mainline?
Yeah, the regular Netafim drippers are for flexible tubing. But there are drippers made for drilling into hard pipe. I'm not sure which manufacturers make those, search agriculture supply websites. They usually have a screw type thread instead of the normal insert barb.
Thanks for that info, I don't think i've ever seen them on the shelf. And you can put anything you want on the same line. It's a matter of the dripper (emitter) size and how many drippers to vary the amount at each plant. That's the beauty of using a solid drip tubing and putting the drippers exactly where you want them. If you need more water, there's nothing wrong with putting several 2gph drippers side by side. Or you could add a microspray there which can usually get up to 15 or 17 gph.
We're in the UK and find product availability to be different (and i cant find 17mm tubing). The '17mm tubing' - is that 17mm inner diameter or outer? We have a "20mm" that has a 17mm inner diameter for example...
It usually refers to the outer diameter. A 17 mm dripline will have an inner diameter around 13.5 mm. And sometimes the outer diameter is actually around 16 mm instead of 17! That's why these sizes are referred as "nominal sizes" which means "in name only." Same is pretty much true for PVC as well.
Question, I've been using Netafim with emitters for years. Just moved and I have to set up my 4 raised beds with Netafim. Is here a trick I don't know of to force the hose over the barbed connectors? Just tried a heat gun and that was a disaster as I always end up heating it too much. ANy help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Hi Marty, thanks for the question. I understand that it can be difficult to push the tubing onto the barbed connectors. I always had good hand strength and didn't have a problem with it until I was bitten on the right wrist by a spider. I lost most of the strength in that hand for years. I usually just left the roll of tubing in the sun a while before needing to work with it. In SC, that usually works. But if it's colder, I like Jorge's suggestion in the comments.
Hello. I have a leak comming out of the micro tiny space between de pipe and the barbed fittings (from the fittings I connected spaggetti tubing and Irritec buttons), and I installed this system inside an apartment so I can´t allow any drop of water other than the ones going to the planters. Any suggestions on how to seal this space? Any kind of silicone or someting I can add? Thank you in advance.
Hi Ely, thanks for watching. What I do in this situation is to plug the hole with a goof plug like the one in the link. Use the larger end and carefully force it into the hole. It should seal completely. Then just punch another hole on the other side of the tube or wherever best. Also, I would use a hole punch made specifically for drip irrigation so you get the right size hole. And keep the pressure in the line at 35 psi or less. amzn.to/3BoricR
@@CosmoRendon That's a shame. Here's something to consider. Use a drip manifold that you can configure inside a pot and seal up with caulk if need be. Then run the 1/4" spaghetti tubing into your pots, one continuous piece from the manifold all the way to each pot. Stake the dripper down inside your destination pot, and there shouldn't be anyway for it to leak. I'm going to post a link below for a manifold (affiliate link.) amzn.to/3JtL5tn
@@CosmoRendon Good luck. I know I mentioned it before, but watch the pressure. Probably 35 psi max, but you can get pressure regulators / filters down to 25 psi. It would be best in your situation to try the lowest possible pressure that will work in your setup.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
I never understood what a vacuum breaker is for, until now. Thank you 😊
Thanks for watching!
Excellent. The best presentation I have seen. The delivery is superb. Thanks for sharing this.
Wayne, thank you for the kind comment. I really appreciate that! Glad you find some value in the content. That's what it's all about.
Great video. Thanks for attempting to demystify the various solid tubing dimesions and fittings. There seems to be very little information on this from the manufactuers and your video was exactly what I needed to help resolve some of the piping mismatch issues I've been runing into. Would love to see a follow-up that explains the difference between the brown, blue, grey and black barbed fittings as there seems to be some key differences between each manufacturer and their color systems.
You're right about the colors. Personally I can't remember, so i just check the specs each time i buy a product and write the info on the bag with a sharpie in big print, lol. I go through a lot of drippers, so i just leave them in the bag. For other small fittings like microspray heads, i use small tupperware containers and write the specs on the top. Thanks for watching!
Orbit, Rain Bird, and Raindrip have 1/4" elbows that I have used. Good video and very informative.
Thanks for the info Patrick! Sometimes the availability of parts is localized and dependent upon what the local techs are buying and requesting.
Great presentation, terrific info, sooo helpful!
Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for your video. I spent money on purchasing the brown 1/2 inch tubing that was predrilled with holes every so many inches apart. What I nightmare! The tubing does not bend well and is reinforced where the drip holes were previously put in. I purchased the Rainbird kit in a bucket with most of the parts that I think I will need. Could I go directly from the timer on the faucet by using an adapter and running the 1/4 inch tubing directly around the plants? I found it necessary to purchase a pressure regulator as well, as the water pressure made a projectile out of the end cap (LOL). Appreciate your taking the time to show us the tools and how to use them correctly. Wish I had seen your video first. ❤
Hi TS, sorry to hear that you didn't have great experience. YET. We'll get you there and enjoying the benefits of an automatic drip system. First, the 1/2" tubing with emitters is designed to be pretty rigid and used in applications for straight runs and large, sweeping curves. The 1/4" tubing is much better for smaller areas and more bending. You definitely need a pressure reducer/filter to begin with. If you have several pots or areas of plants, you can use a solid 1/2" tubing as your supply line, then plug in a run of 1/4" dripline where you need it.
You are a good teacher
Thank you. Very informative.
Thanks Ted! I appreciate the comment and you watching.
great info....thanks
Thank you!
Good info. I'm currently installing an irrigation system on my tree farm. Adding about 5,000 feet of drip line. The tip about using 1-in PVC for the line ends instead of the black "figure 8" terminators will be especially useful. Thanks for the vid.
You're welcome. Best of luck on the tree farm. I actually learned the PVC ring trick on a blueberry farm install. Definitely helps to find the end for flushing.
Awesome, thanks!
You're welcome!
Great video! Which brand tubing (both 1/2" and 1/4") do you recommend? These things will remain in the sun for 5-10 yrs and need to be durable. thanks!
I buy mine for Drip Depot. They've been in business for years and have lots of product videos.
Forgive the late reply, just seeing a few older comments. But any of the major brands are really durable. Netafim, Rain Bird, Hunter, Toro, I've used them all. Sometimes the products you get at hardware stores aren't quite as good as what you get from an irrigation supply retailer or website.
Do you have a video that talks about either cutting the 1/2 inch supply tube to add a compression (this is a full cut and 3-way {T} for every emitter) 3 way (T) 1/2 x1/2 x 1/4 and from the 1/4" your micro tube goes to the emitter, VS a puncture the 1/2" tube to connect the micro (1/4") tube?
I don't think I ever talk about that. It's definitely a possibility, but it seems inefficient. Is there a reason to do it that way? I'm legit asking, because I know different places use different methods, and I'm always interested in hearing better ways of doing things.
@@Proirrigationtraining With no experience with this; I was just looking at the difference there might be in flow. One way, the tube is punctured and dimpled (though the dimple probably pops back out?) I see the 1/4" connector has penetrated the tube 1/2 of it's diameter, each connector doing the same. I looked at the system for cutting and using a 1/2" x 1/2" w/1/4" T and the flow seemed more open. Maybe giving a more even delivery. That is just me picturing the flow through both systems. Thinking trouble shooting, repairs, and possibility for an increasing pressure a little, with the more open tubing. ??
@@mollycasey39 You're correct in one way. The emitters that are in the stream of water inside the pipe are definitely causing turbulence and friction loss. At higher pressure and flow rates this would be a problem, but not really at the rates used in drip systems. Another point though, is the turbulence thus friction loss that would be created at the edge of every Tee fitting in your scenario. That friction loss is usually around 10% of the total pipe friction loss, but with that many Tees, you would probably triple the friction loss in that zone. Just a round guess, it could be calculated though.
I just got plantet a Arbor vitae hedge that's aprox 35 meters in lenght. (75 plants). In the middle it's giong down a slope with a hight difference about 3,5 meters. The slop is about 40%. I was told it needed a lot of water the first two years and I was recomended to get a soaking hose to make sure every plant get enough water. After installing this hose I have problem with no soaking in the slope, only on the flat surfaces. I therefore wonder if a drip system could be better to make even pressure along all the plants, even in the slope? Any tips for me on how I can get a reliable system up and running?
So sorry that I'm just now seeing this comment. Usually, soaker hose has a very high flow rate. It may be possible that you're running out of water before it can make it to the sloped part of the zone. You may want to switch to a dripline product or a solid tubing with drippers just over the root zones. I would suggest dripline with the lowest flow rate possible, usually .4 or .6 gallons per hour and check valves to keep the water from draining out the lowest areas after shutoff.
Dang ..you took a simple irrigation project ,and turned into Rocket Appliances...
I know what you mean. Drip seems simple enough. But there's a lot of variation and nuance in all the parts available. My videos are made for training field technicians so I pack in as much information as I can. A technician running 3 - 5 appointments a day will see all the different parts and crazy configurations.
How about torching or using a lighter to heat up 1/4 inch tubing when installing barbs ?
I don't use heat in any way or recommend it. BUT, I get a lot of comments from people who seem to use heat guns or torches with no problems. Just be careful that you don't melt a thin place in the tubing.
I am using rigid ldpe pipe for mainline with my netafim drippers staked into it. It is leaking from the holes. Do I need more Flexi line instead of rigid for the mainline?
Yeah, the regular Netafim drippers are for flexible tubing. But there are drippers made for drilling into hard pipe. I'm not sure which manufacturers make those, search agriculture supply websites. They usually have a screw type thread instead of the normal insert barb.
They do have elbows for the rainbird spaghetti hose. Can you put fruit trees on the same line as roses and shrubs?
Thanks for that info, I don't think i've ever seen them on the shelf. And you can put anything you want on the same line. It's a matter of the dripper (emitter) size and how many drippers to vary the amount at each plant. That's the beauty of using a solid drip tubing and putting the drippers exactly where you want them. If you need more water, there's nothing wrong with putting several 2gph drippers side by side. Or you could add a microspray there which can usually get up to 15 or 17 gph.
We're in the UK and find product availability to be different (and i cant find 17mm tubing). The '17mm tubing' - is that 17mm inner diameter or outer? We have a "20mm" that has a 17mm inner diameter for example...
It usually refers to the outer diameter. A 17 mm dripline will have an inner diameter around 13.5 mm. And sometimes the outer diameter is actually around 16 mm instead of 17! That's why these sizes are referred as "nominal sizes" which means "in name only." Same is pretty much true for PVC as well.
What is that purple tool called?
The purple one may be called a drip multi-tool, others are just called a hole-punch. Thanks for watching!
Question, I've been using Netafim with emitters for years. Just moved and I have to set up my 4 raised beds with Netafim. Is here a trick I don't know of to force the hose over the barbed connectors? Just tried a heat gun and that was a disaster as I always end up heating it too much. ANy help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
if you have trouble with overheating with a heatgun, try a hair dryer, which doesn't get as hot
Use hot water and dip the end of hose hold for a few seconds and quickly push onto barb. should cool down and return to original size
Hi Marty, thanks for the question. I understand that it can be difficult to push the tubing onto the barbed connectors. I always had good hand strength and didn't have a problem with it until I was bitten on the right wrist by a spider. I lost most of the strength in that hand for years. I usually just left the roll of tubing in the sun a while before needing to work with it. In SC, that usually works. But if it's colder, I like Jorge's suggestion in the comments.
@@JorgeGonzalez-ct4jp Great tip, thanks for sharing!
@@Proirrigationtraining Thanks! I am using a heat gun now. The Netafim tubing is way hard to work with than the typical black 1/2 inch.
Hello. I have a leak comming out of the micro tiny space between de pipe and the barbed fittings (from the fittings I connected spaggetti tubing and Irritec buttons), and I installed this system inside an apartment so I can´t allow any drop of water other than the ones going to the planters. Any suggestions on how to seal this space? Any kind of silicone or someting I can add? Thank you in advance.
Hi Ely, thanks for watching. What I do in this situation is to plug the hole with a goof plug like the one in the link. Use the larger end and carefully force it into the hole. It should seal completely. Then just punch another hole on the other side of the tube or wherever best. Also, I would use a hole punch made specifically for drip irrigation so you get the right size hole. And keep the pressure in the line at 35 psi or less.
amzn.to/3BoricR
@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you! Did all that already. I guess there's just no drip irrigation system for interior design with plants 😭
@@CosmoRendon That's a shame. Here's something to consider. Use a drip manifold that you can configure inside a pot and seal up with caulk if need be. Then run the 1/4" spaghetti tubing into your pots, one continuous piece from the manifold all the way to each pot. Stake the dripper down inside your destination pot, and there shouldn't be anyway for it to leak. I'm going to post a link below for a manifold (affiliate link.)
amzn.to/3JtL5tn
Didn't know those existed 😄. I'll definitely check them out! Thanks a lot for your time and advice 🌱
@@CosmoRendon Good luck. I know I mentioned it before, but watch the pressure. Probably 35 psi max, but you can get pressure regulators / filters down to 25 psi. It would be best in your situation to try the lowest possible pressure that will work in your setup.