Uhh, you should sand the ply to remove any release agent they use in manufacturing. Oh and glue an eight inch of squeeze out is good. Excess epoxy adds weight to the build fast.
I have been reading the comments and see several takes on this process. One thing I would like to bounce off you is what type of glue was used in original production. I'm sure it wasn't epoxy that had to be applied to not miss one millimeter of coverage. I have even seen someone calling for a glue that is "vibration" rated as if there is one. If you choose to go to the lengths that you do too satisfy your heart than so be it. Just a note if your gonna be anal about it you should not deform your gussets with staples as it breaks the fibers in the ply demonstrated by the raising and splitting of the fibers. A simple weight or block and clamps is more than sufficient. Very fastidious, thorough and quality work though. It is your plane and and as long as you are having fun you can rub it anyway you want as they say.
titebond III is just the ticket. Not affected by moisture, acids, gasoline. Wood joints always break at the wood instead of the glue joint. So easy to apply and easy cleanup.
TB3 is very strong but not good enough for aircrafts. Typical test for aeronautical grade, water resistance of glues and plywoods: samples are soaked for 10 days or boiled for eight hours. Aircraft glues must also withstand high temperatures, unlike Titebond assemblies that can be detached by heating.
@@6h471 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.
Interest stuff that T88 epoxy. I think its a 100/100 mix by volume and a 100/83 by weight (resin/hardner.) I've never used it (T88) myself. I always make some test pieces in fiberglass or epoxy to eliminate weird stuff going on (expired date catalyst or whatever.) Thanks for posting this. Once when reworking my sailboat hull I mixed up a laminate panel with acetone (polyester) that didn't get hard. Interestingly it could be bent and shaped and later brushed with resin/++hardener to make it hard.
You are very accurately measuring the wrong glue ratio --- T-88 is 1:1 by volume not weight .
Correct. Read the info in the package or on their website. I don't remember the the exact ratio, but it is NOT 1 to 1 by weight.
Uhh, you should sand the ply to remove any release agent they use in manufacturing. Oh and glue an eight inch of squeeze out is good. Excess epoxy adds weight to the build fast.
Did this plane ever get finished ?
Cool👍🏻 go on👍🏻😍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
You're a Great Master... thanks.
I have been reading the comments and see several takes on this process. One thing I would like to bounce off you is what type of glue was used in original production. I'm sure it wasn't epoxy that had to be applied to not miss one millimeter of coverage. I have even seen someone calling for a glue that is "vibration" rated as if there is one. If you choose to go to the lengths that you do too satisfy your heart than so be it. Just a note if your gonna be anal about it you should not deform your gussets with staples as it breaks the fibers in the ply demonstrated by the raising and splitting of the fibers. A simple weight or block and clamps is more than sufficient. Very fastidious, thorough and quality work though. It is your plane and and as long as you are having fun you can rub it anyway you want as they say.
titebond III is just the ticket. Not affected by moisture, acids, gasoline. Wood joints always break at the wood instead of the glue joint. So easy to apply and easy cleanup.
TB3 is very strong but not good enough for aircrafts. Typical test for aeronautical grade, water resistance of glues and plywoods: samples are soaked for 10 days or boiled for eight hours. Aircraft glues must also withstand high temperatures, unlike Titebond assemblies that can be detached by heating.
No PVA glue is waterproof.
@@6h471 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.
Interest stuff that T88 epoxy. I think its a 100/100 mix by volume and a 100/83 by weight (resin/hardner.)
I've never used it (T88) myself. I always make some test pieces in fiberglass or epoxy to eliminate weird stuff going on (expired date catalyst or whatever.) Thanks for posting this. Once when reworking my sailboat hull I mixed up a laminate panel with acetone (polyester) that didn't get hard. Interestingly it could be bent and shaped and later brushed with resin/++hardener to make it hard.
I would like very much to communicate with you about your rib building. Are you available somehow? Thanks, Brian
PUT THIS WOOD OR CARDBOARD UNDER THE STAPLE TO GIVE SOME SPACE UNDER THE STAPLE TO GET A TOOL UNDER IT.
I am sure that Pientenpol didn't use Epoxy, i know of casien & urea formaldehyde glues being around in the forties, but before then it was hide glue,