Thanks Mike. I'm rebuilding my daughter's Kawasaki Ninja 250...my first time tearing down an engine and rebuilding an engine. To make short work of those longer screws and bolts I was able to find a couple beautiful 3/8 and 1/2 inch speed handles for sale from an older gentleman nearby. I love them. They are so much more satisfying than using a power tool.
Great Video Mike, you really hit the old soft spot while thanking your father for the Speed Wrench and along with some other tools as you had mention here. My father too had given me a brunch of tools and lift a whole brunch more with the experience of how to use them too. My Pa is gone now, and I think of him often, and Thank him for all the treasure and knowledge he had lifted me . But the one thing I am sure of to this day is, That my Pa is still turning wrenches in that Great Big Garage in the Sky and working side by side with the Big Guy himself. Thanks Mike, for all the memories and along with all of your Fantastic Video's.
Looking good Mike. Teaching others is the best way to reinforce your own understanding. I give guitar lessons sometimes and every time I show somebody something they want to learn, I learn something, even if it's just how to explain/clarify what the hell is going on.
It's a good son that gives a shout-out to his father, he set you on a very good path in life Mike. Thanks for all the great content on these Evo builds, Keep the shiny side up.
Hey Mike! I really enjoy your channel. I watched almost all of your videos. It's kind of relaxing listening to your voice and watching you doing all that work. Seems so easy... All the best & regards from Germany.
@2:40 i learned something... reversing the large socket to use as a seal driver was just [ brilliant ] now i have been a master tech forever and never seen anyone do this ... so simple... thank you... also i use a acid brush to paint on the assy lube so i do not get it on my fingers...
Glad you keep promoting the decison NOT to use power tools. I'm of the same thinking. Great videos !...and yes, I subscribed after watching your first video...and went on a Evo teardown video binge. lol Also...seriously considering stripping the black paint off my 07 evo..and polishing the case.
Mike your are the best, I like that your info better than the shop manual. shovel rocker endplay 8-10, I looked up my book 4-25, and I agree that if I have symetric ticking from all rockers I can accept it (kind of sounds like a BMW M3), but cant stand one that out noices all the other ones. Also got a bit surprised that you wanted the camshaft to have more endplay than spec. I missed if you explained why. I'm also impressed by the looks of you motor-cases. My 79 shovel look realy awful with alot of pitting from the forging. and even puddles of aluminum from the process. your shovel looks like an EVO :). Thanks for the videos. Your knowledge is realy invaluable.
Thank You. I set the endplay on the cam according to the cam grinders I use. I've always listened to those guys, and I've never had a problem with it. Sorry if that's not much of an answer.
Thanks Mike! I really enjoy your videos, you teach us things we've never know or have long forgotten. A little question, my mechanics teacher (back in the day) taught us to only use one "click" on the torque wrench. It was his belief that when using multiple "clicks", the accuracy was gone and you had no idea how much you were "overtorking" a screw. I still wrench by his teachings, but maybe it was a case of OCD ;)
I have the same issue. One of the greatest machinists I've ever known, taught me to click it twice. Now, I'm going to call him and ask for a new lecture. It will take a day or two to get in touch, but, I'll do it. And, I'll report back here.
Those Mitutoyo's look just like mine, getting hard to find the ones with dials anymore. Interesting the way you used the socket and extension reversed, never seen that done before, now I have another new way to use one.
Mike I really appreciate your instruction - I have rebuilt Evo top ends and by luck they have run great. Now that I am starting a new build (much more costly than 20 years ago) but the questions I have per this video are concerning the cam gear thrust washer. As I recall the thrust washer had wings of sort and a placement attitude (up/down) but I could not see in the video and you did not mention the positioning of the the washer or the shim. Why I am questioning is because the one I took out is nothing more than a round washer covering the case.
Hi Mike...just watched all of the videos on your Evo build. I've been wrenching on cars and other vehicles for 25 years commercially. I just acquired my first Harley Davidson this spring. It's a '98 Dyna Wide Glide and I'll NEVER get rid of it. I'm absolutely in love with it. I got the opportunity to cut my teeth on building my first bike with this Dyna. The engine build was the only thing I didn't get to be a part of and I was sad about it, hey I'm a gear head and I soak this stuff up! So needless to say I've loved every minute of your build. You seem so happy doing these tutorials and it's infectious I must say! There is one thing I notice you doing while torquing the Cam cover bolts in this video and I'm not sure if you were aware of it ...I could only assume you know, but just may have had a simple oversight...because hey we do these thing in our trade time to time. One of the first things my father taught me was to not use extensions with torque wrenches unless absolutely necessary as it changes the torque value. Thanks for taking the time out of your days to convey your knowledge and expertise to all of us out here in video land. I think I can speak for us all when I say it's greatly greatly appreciated. Hope to ride with you one day!
Hi Mike -- thank you for all the great vids. Generally, what is your approach to mating the pinion shaft and the corresponding bushing in the cam cover?
It is best done with the cases split. That way, you send a reamer through the right case and into the cam cover bushing while the cover is installed on the case. It is in the Service Manual.
Mike !! Thank you so much !! You are the best teacher I have found ...so good . Can you recommend a cam for 1340 evo good for passing quickly around 50 to 60 mph moving cars . My motor is set up with adjustable rids upgraded carb intake oil pump . Thanks for your time
I don't recommend brands. A simple "drop in" cam will probably do the trick. Read the adds. Make sure you're getting what you want. I don't know what you're starting with. If you have a 1988 or new Evo in California, anything is an improvement. The cam manufacturers all tell you if the cam will fit with no headwork involved.
Hey Mike thanks for all the free education. I really enjoy your videos. I am building my first evo motor and wanted to ask what you thought about the s&s reed style breather gears? Specifically have you used them and have they made any difference or if you recommend stock plastic breather gears? Thanks again.
Hey, Mike, I like the videos. When you get to installing the heads on this evo, could you explain how to re-work them? I may have to do that soon on my evo motor. Thanks.
Have not done it in years. But, all of those pinion gears are color-coded by Harley and listed in their service manuals. I order to measure them, they need to be gauged with the proper measuring pins. I honestly don't even know where mine are. Today's manufacturing techniques have pretty well taken care of this.
Hi Mike so here in Massachusetts the nights are getting cool and my 2002 FXSTB Twin Cam 96 CV carb is starting to show signs of being too lean on the pilot circuit in the cooler weather. Should I attempt opening the pilot screw or maybe going up a size on the pilot jet? I't not unrideable in cool weather but if i throttle up on the main and then close to cruise on the pilot I sometimes get a quick carb cough but can easily throttle through it. I can also use throttle control to get around it but doesn't mean it's ok, at least I don"t think. Curious as to what your thought are ? Thanks Mike for the great video and knowledge, it's like Deja Vu on the shovel lol.
Try a slightly larger pilot jet. They come super lean from the factory, and s lightly larger jet is the way to go. I'm assuming you're running stock exhaust and air filter. If you're not, you'll definitely need to upsize the pilot jet. Read the number on it and go up to the next size, maybe two. It's not hard to experiment with.
I refer to your videos often for advice, thanks for doing them! They're very well done! I have a very early softail ('84) and it has a problem so I do have a question; there's a broken standoff screw in the cam cover. Is it, in your opinion, doable to remove the cam chest without removing or loosening the push rods if they are all on the lowest part of the cam lobes? My theory here is the cam will be in the same position it is in even with the lifters and push rods out; nested in between the breather gear and the drive gear. But even if it moves it shouldn't be more than a thousandth or two, I wouldn't think anyway. The reason I want to do it this way is I have no cover to work on my bike under so it's out in the weather while I'll be doing this screw removal. Covering the gear opening would be much easier than covering the entire side of the engine. I'm old and lazy too.
Removing the cam cover without taking the strain off of the cam first is just plain wrong. Don't do it. The cam must not be "loaded" when the cover is removed. The lifters and pushrods and rocker arms and valve springs will all be ganging up on it because the cover will no longer be supporting the cam. That doesn't make you lazy. It makes you careful. That's a cool old bike.
@@pacificmike9501 Then I'll loosen the PR's. It's easy enough, I put Sumax screw together rod covers on it years ago. I'm just hoping I can get that standoff out without having to remove the cover. Thanks! BTW- I bought this bike brand new off the showroom floor with 7 miles on it or so. It now has two engine rebuilds in it's history. I have no clue how many miles...too many speedo swaps. Any grat tips on removing the standoff screw? It's broken off about 1/8" proud.
hello sir,just wondering what happened to the two cam chest guides for the gasket and cam chest to line up on your shovel series?do they not work for evos?.....thank you and strong work
Sorry. Probably didn't mention it. They line up automatically if they are already matched. If not, there is a process which must be followed to put the bushings and bearings in alignment. Thank you.
Hey Mike, I really appreciate your videos, so thank you for these. I have a question re a 1988 FXST Evo rebuild. With the special cam spacer washer and no gasket I have a cam clearance of 60thou - add about 5 thou for a gasket gives about 65thou. The question is this - the official shop manual says the "1988 models do not use a thrust washer" The bike is a 1988 (although I guess it might have been actually manufactured in 1987?) How is one supposed to shim this if they tell you that the thrust washer is not used? Thanks you for any answer you can leave me :-) Phil
Go according to the cam manufacturer's recommendations. No gasket? You calculate the crush of the gasket. That bike came with a thrust washer, but no shim. Calculate it as we've shown and how it's shown in the service manual. Just don't put as much clearance as Harley did on Evos.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike - I think I have it - I have a good selection of shims which I will use to adjust (yes, including the gasket fo course!) The shop manual says between 1 to 50 thou, which I think sounds to be too much of a clearance. Just FYI I had an Andrews EV3 but am going to be switching to an SE11, which I believe has suggested clearance of 10-15 thou.
Hi Mike! I’ve been appreciating your content as a learning resource. I’m building up the knowhow to replace my cam, bearing, lifters and push rods.. I’m hoping to not remove the heads, do you have an opinion on cutting the stock rocks with bolt cutters? Also, what is your opinion on “upgrading” to a metal aftermarket breather gear? (Away from the oem plastic one).
I just opened up a virgin Evo cam chest for INA cam bearing replacement and discovered that the breather gear thrust washer was completely melted and destroyed! If you wanted to see it go to my TH-cam channel. Ive NEVER seen anything like that happen before. Mind you it has NEVER been taken apart as the bike came from the original owner. I couldn't believe it, factory screw up...
Well, I looked at it. You're looking at it up close and I'm looking at a video. But, I think, what happened is a piece of gasket material or sealant got lodged in there and held the shim from turning until it heated up enough to melt. Or, possibly, something in behind the breather gear caused the same situation. Sorry. It's all I got. Nothing else damaged? Wow! Lucky you.
@@pacificmike9501 yeah, I was shocked when I saw that myself. I'm going to install a S&S reed breather. Not a fan of these plastic breather gears. Plus they wear out engine cases! Screw all that nonsense.
Check with S&S. I know that the reed valve setup works with one kind of Evo and not the other. This is according to S&S. I can't remember whether it's supposed to work with head breathers or crankcase breathers.
@@pacificmike9501Thanks Mike, I have installed them on both Top and bottom breathers with no problems. I've also seen them used in Shovelheads. I know Keenan Tatro puts them on practically everything even knuckleheads but S&S won't admit to it. I personally think it's the best thing since sliced bread.
Nice work Mike I have to do All that to my 1993 Evo is that a stock N grind cam or a mild Cam upgrade I am thinking a Andrew's Evo 23 for my Road King ?
Mike, why are you reusing the original OEM plastic breather, I always her that steel aftermarket breathers are better then the plastic ones? Enjoying your video's and greetings from the Netherlands
I've used both kinds successfully. I've heard a lot of opinions on them. But I'm okay with either one. The metal ones are easier to modify, if need be.
Mike, do you think it is a good idea to replace the lifters/tappets at 40.000 in the Evo motors. Should I do the cam bearing also. My 98 FLSTF has about 31K on it it is all factory except the Vance & Hines exhaust and has had very good maintenance..
40,000 miles is generally no big deal on an Evo. Yes, lifters are a "wear item" and subject to failure, usually later on. I don't try to predict when, but 40,000 with proper care and maintenance should be fine. Upgrading to a high performance cam, high performance lifters, pushrods, and cam bearing is always a plus. You already have a more "free flowing" exhaust. The goal is usually to make more air and fuel flowing in and out (free flowing intake and exhaust). Bigger carburetor and a more high performance cam will truly wake it up.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike i am a Shovelhead Panhead guy and don't know the newer motors as well. I actually have worked on Twin Cams but never had an occasion to do more than maintenance work on an Evo.
I've heard so many crazy stories, but I've switched them back and forth. Just make sure of proper years for the bike and use the breather shims intended for the gear you're using.
Question for you, Mike. Why didn't Harley set the timing marks up so that they all lined up when the front cylinder was at TDC like nearly every other engine in the world?
I don't normally make recommendations like that. I don't know what's in your engine or what you want it to do. Read what the manufacturers write in their description and pick the cam that meets your need.
Thanks , I could of used this Video back in 2001 lol, But I still enjoy watching someone do it right . I see guys doing it wrong and I cringe . No breather shim no shim or thrust washers on the cam , or pull the cam cover with the heads on and pushrods in place , They have No Idea the Value of run out on the pinion gear after 800 # pushing on the crank .
I also believe that this is a great time to check your side to side gear engagement from the pinion to the cam gear. It should also be done at various locations just in case there is any pinion shaft run-out. Per Andrew's .000"- .0005" is the proper mesh between the two gears. I measure EVERYTHING with .108" drill rods just to make sure everything is perfect. Like Jeff (JC) I've seen my share of rookie mistakes.
@@JCcanU Yep, most knuckle draggers just throw the cam in the motor and call it done. I've seen sooo many people who do that and end up damaging crap once it fails. Oh well, it ain't my bike..
Hello Mike, I have been enjoying the videos. I have a 1985 Harley Davidson FXRS Evolution Engine 1340 cc. I have an Andrews EV3 Cam, and the pinion shaft is marked red. The EV3 Cam doesn't have any color marked on it and the pinion gear has no color marking on it? I was trying to put the pinion gear on it but it doesn't want to go on all the way? Does the color code determine if it will fit on the pinion? Should I buy a pinion gear that has a red marking on it? And does the EV3 work ok with that? Thank you much!
That gear should go on. Not to dismiss your problem, but check carefully for a burr somewhere, either inside the gear or on the pinion shaft. The gears should mesh properly. Andrews makes their cam gears to fit. I'm not saying you don't have a bad fit between your pinion gear and your cam gear. It happens. Your service manual shows how to measure those gears and also explains the "Color Code" on them.
Hi Mike, I am re assembling my 1985 FXR, my breather gear bore has some scoring in there. S&S recommends not to use thir reedvalve breather i earlier bottom breathing evos. Some guys have mention to install reedvave breather gear in there and others not to. Whats your thoughts on using these reedvalves on bottom breathing evos?
I'm afraid I'm in the same boat you are. I've been told both. I actually haven't used them, but the reports are good. I would have to go with S&S recommendations. Try sscycle.com
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply mike, the reply from S&S is that they can sump to much oil out with the reedvalve. Im just going to go with a new OEM plastic breather.
Have a 99 flstf with 24k miles. Have a sidecar and need more in 5th gear. 5th is a dog at 70mph and 4th is revved out. I'd like 75 mph on the interstate and I'd like to shift less going up hill. My question is...What cam would you recommend? Ev27, Wood W6?
Any of the "drop in" cams would be an improvement. Read what the cam grinders write about where the power is on their specific cam. This will tell you. I don't recommend brands.
Hope you will answer this, It didn't seem to make any difference what position the con rods were in, top or bottom of stroke, as long as the marks on pinion , cam , and breather line up, is that correct? Do the marks line up every rotation of crank? I'm working on my 97 that's why the questions. Thanks.
Do not concern yourself with how the marks are in relation to left and right. Line up everything properly in the camchest. Now it is correct. What goes on with the flywheel marks, is not relevant at this time. When you're ready to time the ignition, then, you relate only to the flywheel marks, being sure you're on the compression stroke.
Nope. If it gets really bad and the motor is completely torn down, you can oversize the hole, then install an oversize breather gear. That's extreme circumstances. Don't look for problems when there aren't any.
Hi Mike big fan! I have a problem in my Evo build i lose presure on hot the light from the oil light up, the original bomb is ok we rebuilded with a kit and tested, i tested with a hiflow ultima oil Pump it did it again same sympthoms, we changed lifters they are new, what are the other points of the circuit pressure some One talked the nose cone. What do you think? Best regards!
You could have any number of issues. But, if you have the right pump and the cam cover your motor came with, it should be all right. I became frustrated at one point and bought a quality, mechanical, oil gauge. I bought it from Snap-On. It was not cheap, but it was a real piece of precision equipment. If I'm losing oil pressure, I want to know where and when. Remember, what you really want is flow, volume, rather than high pressure. Read your MANUAL and hook up a good, mechanical gauge. I ran a long hose from the hole where the oil pressure sending unit screws in and taped the gauge to the speedo. Know how much pressure you have at startup, when the pressure drops, and how low.
Hey mike I’m having trouble finding a pinion shaft spacer for my evo. The Jim’s spacer isn’t correct for my evo. 1988. My stock plastic one got melted in the process of taking it apart and now this things got my whole build on hold! I appreciate any guidance you can give me to finding one
@@pacificmike9501 well I work at sea coast Harley Davidson as a tech and I asked my parts guy to look up the OEM number and our system, Talon, said “obsolete” and “out of stock” which is why I turned to the Jim’s alternative
@@pacificmike9501 Im putting an S+S metal breather in and I got those James gaskets with the rubber bead. Not really sure how to get an accurate reading. :/
Mike can you help me settle a friendly (so far) disagreement, not related to this video but I think this is probably up your alley. I recently commented on a FB post to a fellow that was asking about what year his dad's bike was based on a 1949 photo. The bike was a hydraglide and since the photo was taken in 49 it was a pretty simple deduction that the bike was a brand new 49 since the 48 was still a Springer. This bike also had the black lower fork sliders which I thought made it even easier because I was under the impression that those black sliders were a one year only for 49. That's were the disagreement starts, someone sent me a message telling me that I was wrong and that HD offered those black sliders on several different years. I've only ever seen it on the 49 as stock from HD. Do you have any knowledge on this? I still believe I'm correct but before I put my foot in my mouth I'd like to verify it. Any opinion? Thanks Dennis. PS I enjoy your work and I subscribe! 😁
Thank you. I had to refer to my books to answer this one. And, of course, I hope the book is correct. I've seen black lower legs many times, but didn't know they were a "one year only." According to Bruce Palmer's Restoration Guide (How To Restore Your Harley Davidson), 1949 was the only year to have black sliders, and they were used on all models. That's the best I can do. I've had a lot of lower legs polished. I've had a lot of them chromed. I prefer polished. But, it seems in 1949, HD painted them all black.
Hi mike your fan are friend Jeff pickens i have a 1967 harley electricgluide. Iam learning to work on with the help of your videos. Is it possible to chat with you for questions about tools and part's. I might need from time to time.i also have a builders bike from a company called E&M from ST louis , MO it is a 113 evo motorcycle.
Man you have inspired me to rebuild my 96 Ultra Classic, thanks you.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks Mike. I'm rebuilding my daughter's Kawasaki Ninja 250...my first time tearing down an engine and rebuilding an engine. To make short work of those longer screws and bolts I was able to find a couple beautiful 3/8 and 1/2 inch speed handles for sale from an older gentleman nearby. I love them. They are so much more satisfying than using a power tool.
I couldn't agree more.
MAN I CANT WAIT AROUND HERE FOR NOTHING ANYMORE ... I CHECK BACK HERE IN A FEW YEARS TO SEE HOW FAR YOU COME ALONG ON THIS
Hello Mike,
The VISUAL of you placing that 1" SOCKET
on your short EXTENSION was a nice TOUCH :-)
COOP
......................................
Thank You. I'll tell the camera man.
Great Video Mike,
you really hit the old soft spot while thanking your father for the Speed Wrench and along with some other tools as you had mention here. My father too had given me a brunch of tools and lift a whole brunch more with the experience of how to use them too. My Pa is gone now, and I think of him often, and Thank him for all the treasure and knowledge he had lifted me . But the one thing I am sure of to this day is, That my Pa is still turning wrenches in that Great Big Garage in the Sky and working side by side with the Big Guy himself. Thanks Mike, for all the memories and along with all of your Fantastic Video's.
Thank You for sharing yours. Obviously, these meaningful things touch a lot of us. I hope we always do them proud.
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️ Journeyman Mechanic at its best
All apprentices take note 👍👍
Thank You.
Nice work Mike... I like your old school approach..as far as I’m concerned, that’s the best way!
Thank you.
Your videos make me happy mike:)
Cool. That's a good thing.
You are the most professional person on
You Tube. I hope you continue working on older stuff (that I recognize) forever. Many thanks!
y
Thank You. That is the plan.
Love your videos Mike, informative and clear.
Thank you.
Thank you Mike awesome Video
Thank you.
Awesome work Mike! You're the man, make the best most helpful videos. Thanks so much
Glad to help!
As always, nice work Mike 👍
Thank you.
Looking good Mike. Teaching others is the best way to reinforce your own understanding. I give guitar lessons sometimes and every time I show somebody something they want to learn, I learn something, even if it's just how to explain/clarify what the hell is going on.
Thank you, and yes, I get that.
Proper job Mike your videos are great
Thank You.
Thanks for another good Video Mike! Cheers. Al
Thank you.
Thanks Mike. I always watch you videos before tackling a project. Good one.
I appreciate that!
It's a good son that gives a shout-out to his father, he set you on a very good path in life Mike. Thanks for all the great content on these Evo builds, Keep the shiny side up.
Thank You
Great video Mike!
Thanks!
Thank you for great videos. They will help navigat through engine disassembly and rebuilld if i'm going to do it some day!
Thank you.
Hey Mike! I really enjoy your channel. I watched almost all of your videos. It's kind of relaxing listening to your voice and watching you doing all that work. Seems so easy...
All the best & regards from Germany.
Awesome, thank you!
Another good one Mike,,didn't expect anything but quality
Thank you.
Thanks Mike
Thank you.
Great channel Mike! keep the videos coming ..
Thank you.
I'm flicking the bell Mike! She isn't happy that I flick this bell more than her bell.
Okay. Thank You
Thanx Mike just what i needed as i have a leak on the Nosecone. So i have to relace all the seals.
Cool.
having a great time mike! lets get some learning done!
Thank you.
@2:40 i learned something... reversing the large socket to use as a seal driver was just [ brilliant ] now i have been a master tech forever and never seen anyone do this ... so simple... thank you... also i use a acid brush to paint on the assy lube so i do not get it on my fingers...
Cool. Thank you.
Glad you keep promoting the decison NOT to use power tools. I'm of the same thinking. Great videos !...and yes, I subscribed after watching your first video...and went on a Evo teardown video binge. lol Also...seriously considering stripping the black paint off my 07 evo..and polishing the case.
Beautiful, but hard to maintain. I've gotten to where I just leave them raw, except my Flathead. It's gonna be a real pretty pain to keep nice.
Thnx again mike
My pleasure!
Need a video on putting cylinder s and heads thanks mate top videos
We will finish the Evo motor on video. Thank you.
Enjoy the videos man
Cool. Thank You
Mike your are the best, I like that your info better than the shop manual. shovel rocker endplay 8-10, I looked up my book 4-25, and I agree that if I have symetric ticking from all rockers I can accept it (kind of sounds like a BMW M3), but cant stand one that out noices all the other ones. Also got a bit surprised that you wanted the camshaft to have more endplay than spec. I missed if you explained why. I'm also impressed by the looks of you motor-cases. My 79 shovel look realy awful with alot of pitting from the forging. and even puddles of aluminum from the process. your shovel looks like an EVO :). Thanks for the videos. Your knowledge is realy invaluable.
Thank You. I set the endplay on the cam according to the cam grinders I use. I've always listened to those guys, and I've never had a problem with it. Sorry if that's not much of an answer.
Thanks Mike! I really enjoy your videos, you teach us things we've never know or have long forgotten.
A little question, my mechanics teacher (back in the day) taught us to only use one "click" on the torque wrench. It was his belief that when using multiple "clicks", the accuracy was gone and you had no idea how much you were "overtorking" a screw. I still wrench by his teachings, but maybe it was a case of OCD ;)
I have the same issue. One of the greatest machinists I've ever known, taught me to click it twice. Now, I'm going to call him and ask for a new lecture. It will take a day or two to get in touch, but, I'll do it. And, I'll report back here.
I swear you’re the Bob Ross of the Motorcycle world
Thank You.
Those Mitutoyo's look just like mine, getting hard to find the ones with dials anymore. Interesting the way you used the socket and extension reversed, never seen that done before, now I have another new way to use one.
Just old stuff.
Mike I really appreciate your instruction - I have rebuilt Evo top ends and by luck they have run great. Now that I am starting a new build (much more costly than 20 years ago) but the questions I have per this video are concerning the cam gear thrust washer. As I recall the thrust washer had wings of sort and a placement attitude (up/down) but I could not see in the video and you did not mention the positioning of the the washer or the shim. Why I am questioning is because the one I took out is nothing more than a round washer covering the case.
Don't confuse your years. Go by the parts book. There is a "camplate" and a "cam shim." Not all years use both.
RIGHTEOUS!!!!
Thank you.
nice
Thank you.
Hi Mike...just watched all of the videos on your Evo build. I've been wrenching on cars and other vehicles for 25 years commercially. I just acquired my first Harley Davidson this spring. It's a '98 Dyna Wide Glide and I'll NEVER get rid of it. I'm absolutely in love with it. I got the opportunity to cut my teeth on building my first bike with this Dyna. The engine build was the only thing I didn't get to be a part of and I was sad about it, hey I'm a gear head and I soak this stuff up! So needless to say I've loved every minute of your build. You seem so happy doing these tutorials and it's infectious I must say! There is one thing I notice you doing while torquing the Cam cover bolts in this video and I'm not sure if you were aware of it ...I could only assume you know, but just may have had a simple oversight...because hey we do these thing in our trade time to time. One of the first things my father taught me was to not use extensions with torque wrenches unless absolutely necessary as it changes the torque value. Thanks for taking the time out of your days to convey your knowledge and expertise to all of us out here in video land. I think I can speak for us all when I say it's greatly greatly appreciated. Hope to ride with you one day!
Thank you. And you are correct. Extensions when only absolutely necessary. And I do hope to see you and more and more people "Out on the Road."
Good
Thanks
Hi Mike -- thank you for all the great vids. Generally, what is your approach to mating the pinion shaft and the corresponding bushing in the cam cover?
It is best done with the cases split. That way, you send a reamer through the right case and into the cam cover bushing while the cover is installed on the case. It is in the Service Manual.
Mike !! Thank you so much !! You are the best teacher I have found ...so good . Can you recommend a cam for 1340 evo good for passing quickly around 50 to 60 mph moving cars . My motor is set up with adjustable rids upgraded carb intake oil pump . Thanks for your time
I don't recommend brands. A simple "drop in" cam will probably do the trick. Read the adds. Make sure you're getting what you want. I don't know what you're starting with. If you have a 1988 or new Evo in California, anything is an improvement. The cam manufacturers all tell you if the cam will fit with no headwork involved.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you I will keep checking em out . I'm in Oregon I have a 93 softtail Springer
Cool.
Hey Mike thanks for all the free education. I really enjoy your videos. I am building my first evo motor and wanted to ask what you thought about the s&s reed style breather gears? Specifically have you used them and have they made any difference or if you recommend stock plastic breather gears? Thanks again.
I've seen quite a few of S&S's reed valves in use. Never heard anything bad about them. Not much experience with them though.
Hey, Mike, I like the videos. When you get to installing the heads on this evo, could you explain how to re-work them? I may have to do that soon on my evo motor. Thanks.
Thank you, and we'll see what we can do.
Hello Mike, have you ever used an S&S Reed type breather and if so what's your opinion ?
Thanks for another great video
Yes I have and they appear to wok well on Evo motors.
Mike could you make a video of measuring cam gears for proper pinion gear sizing snd the differences in pinion gears in the Evos ?
Have not done it in years. But, all of those pinion gears are color-coded by Harley and listed in their service manuals. I order to measure them, they need to be gauged with the proper measuring pins. I honestly don't even know where mine are. Today's manufacturing techniques have pretty well taken care of this.
Seeing comments👍🏻.
I have a question... what is the cam specs?
Thank you and great video!
That paticular cam is a Jim's Machine unit. I don't remember which grind.
Hi Mike so here in Massachusetts the nights are getting cool and my 2002 FXSTB Twin Cam 96 CV carb is starting to show signs of being too lean on the pilot circuit in the cooler weather. Should I attempt opening the pilot screw or maybe going up a size on the pilot jet? I't not unrideable in cool weather but if i throttle up on the main and then close to cruise on the pilot I sometimes get a quick carb cough but can easily throttle through it. I can also use throttle control to get around it but doesn't mean it's ok, at least I don"t think. Curious as to what your thought are ?
Thanks Mike for the great video and knowledge, it's like Deja Vu on the shovel lol.
Try a slightly larger pilot jet. They come super lean from the factory, and s lightly larger jet is the way to go. I'm assuming you're running stock exhaust and air filter. If you're not, you'll definitely need to upsize the pilot jet. Read the number on it and go up to the next size, maybe two. It's not hard to experiment with.
@@pacificmike9501 will do. Thanks Mike
I refer to your videos often for advice, thanks for doing them! They're very well done!
I have a very early softail ('84) and it has a problem so I do have a question; there's a broken standoff screw in the cam cover. Is it, in your opinion, doable to remove the cam chest without removing or loosening the push rods if they are all on the lowest part of the cam lobes?
My theory here is the cam will be in the same position it is in even with the lifters and push rods out; nested in between the breather gear and the drive gear. But even if it moves it shouldn't be more than a thousandth or two, I wouldn't think anyway.
The reason I want to do it this way is I have no cover to work on my bike under so it's out in the weather while I'll be doing this screw removal. Covering the gear opening would be much easier than covering the entire side of the engine. I'm old and lazy too.
Removing the cam cover without taking the strain off of the cam first is just plain wrong. Don't do it. The cam must not be "loaded" when the cover is removed. The lifters and pushrods and rocker arms and valve springs will all be ganging up on it because the cover will no longer be supporting the cam. That doesn't make you lazy. It makes you careful. That's a cool old bike.
@@pacificmike9501 Then I'll loosen the PR's. It's easy enough, I put Sumax screw together rod covers on it years ago. I'm just hoping I can get that standoff out without having to remove the cover.
Thanks!
BTW- I bought this bike brand new off the showroom floor with 7 miles on it or so. It now has two engine rebuilds in it's history. I have no clue how many miles...too many speedo swaps.
Any grat tips on removing the standoff screw? It's broken off about 1/8" proud.
hello sir,just wondering what happened to the two cam chest guides for the gasket and cam chest to line up on your shovel series?do they not work for evos?.....thank you and strong work
Sorry. Probably didn't mention it. They line up automatically if they are already matched. If not, there is a process which must be followed to put the bushings and bearings in alignment. Thank you.
Dear Mike: If you use "Tippex (correction fluid)" on your timing marks, you will be able to see them much easier.
Good point.
Were you measuring gap to the end of the breather “shaft” or to the face of its gear? Thanks
The face of the breather shim to the edge of the crankcase. Look in your service manual for clarity.
Hey Mike, I really appreciate your videos, so thank you for these. I have a question re a 1988 FXST Evo rebuild. With the special cam spacer washer and no gasket I have a cam clearance of 60thou - add about 5 thou for a gasket gives about 65thou. The question is this - the official shop manual says the "1988 models do not use a thrust washer" The bike is a 1988 (although I guess it might have been actually manufactured in 1987?) How is one supposed to shim this if they tell you that the thrust washer is not used? Thanks you for any answer you can leave me :-)
Phil
Go according to the cam manufacturer's recommendations. No gasket? You calculate the crush of the gasket. That bike came with a thrust washer, but no shim. Calculate it as we've shown and how it's shown in the service manual. Just don't put as much clearance as Harley did on Evos.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike - I think I have it - I have a good selection of shims which I will use to adjust (yes, including the gasket fo course!) The shop manual says between 1 to 50 thou, which I think sounds to be too much of a clearance. Just FYI I had an Andrews EV3 but am going to be switching to an SE11, which I believe has suggested clearance of 10-15 thou.
Hello Mike.
Hello.
Hi Mike! I’ve been appreciating your content as a learning resource. I’m building up the knowhow to replace my cam, bearing, lifters and push rods.. I’m hoping to not remove the heads, do you have an opinion on cutting the stock rocks with bolt cutters? Also, what is your opinion on “upgrading” to a metal aftermarket breather gear? (Away from the oem plastic one).
I've removed a bunch of non-adjustable pushrods with bolt cutters. Pad up the area with rags so you don't scratch anything.
I have no problem with the original breather or a replacement.
I just opened up a virgin Evo cam chest for INA cam bearing replacement and discovered that the breather gear thrust washer was completely melted and destroyed! If you wanted to see it go to my TH-cam channel. Ive NEVER seen anything like that happen before. Mind you it has NEVER been taken apart as the bike came from the original owner. I couldn't believe it, factory screw up...
Well, I looked at it. You're looking at it up close and I'm looking at a video. But, I think, what happened is a piece of gasket material or sealant got lodged in there and held the shim from turning until it heated up enough to melt. Or, possibly, something in behind the breather gear caused the same situation. Sorry. It's all I got. Nothing else damaged? Wow! Lucky you.
@@pacificmike9501 yeah, I was shocked when I saw that myself. I'm going to install a S&S reed breather. Not a fan of these plastic breather gears. Plus they wear out engine cases! Screw all that nonsense.
Check with S&S. I know that the reed valve setup works with one kind of Evo and not the other. This is according to S&S. I can't remember whether it's supposed to work with head breathers or crankcase breathers.
@@pacificmike9501Thanks Mike, I have installed them on both Top and bottom breathers with no problems. I've also seen them used in Shovelheads. I know Keenan Tatro puts them on practically everything even knuckleheads but S&S won't admit to it. I personally think it's the best thing since sliced bread.
Thank You. I'm really glad to hear that. I gotta study up.
Nice work Mike I have to do
All that to my 1993 Evo is that
a stock N grind cam or a mild
Cam upgrade I am thinking a Andrew's Evo 23 for my Road
King ?
Thank You. I honestly don't recall what the cam is now, but it's a "drop in" that comes on real nice at freeway speeds.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike
Niagara Falls Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Mike, why are you reusing the original OEM plastic breather, I always her that steel aftermarket breathers are better then the plastic ones? Enjoying your video's and greetings from the Netherlands
I find no problems with either one.
What your opinion on the metal breathers
I've used both kinds successfully. I've heard a lot of opinions on them. But I'm okay with either one. The metal ones are easier to modify, if need be.
Mike, do you think it is a good idea to replace the lifters/tappets at 40.000 in the Evo motors. Should I do the cam bearing also. My 98 FLSTF has about 31K on it it is all factory except the Vance & Hines exhaust and has had very good maintenance..
40,000 miles is generally no big deal on an Evo. Yes, lifters are a "wear item" and subject to failure, usually later on. I don't try to predict when, but 40,000 with proper care and maintenance should be fine. Upgrading to a high performance cam, high performance lifters, pushrods, and cam bearing is always a plus. You already have a more "free flowing" exhaust. The goal is usually to make more air and fuel flowing in and out (free flowing intake and exhaust). Bigger carburetor and a more high performance cam will truly wake it up.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike i am a Shovelhead Panhead guy and don't know the newer motors as well. I actually have worked on Twin Cams but never had an occasion to do more than maintenance work on an Evo.
How do you feel about steel breather gear replacing the plastic one ?
I've heard so many crazy stories, but I've switched them back and forth. Just make sure of proper years for the bike and use the breather shims intended for the gear you're using.
Question for you, Mike. Why didn't Harley set the timing marks up so that they all lined up when the front cylinder was at TDC like nearly every other engine in the world?
I don't know. They probably didn't think it was necessary. Pretty silly huh?
Hello, can the cam cover be mounted even with the normal key?
I don't understand the question. Are you referring to the breather shim? If so, it should always be checked. Even if it was correct, gaskets vary.
Hi Mike,
WHAT are your THOUGHTS on the S&S Reed Valve type of EVO Breathers ?
COOP
.............................
I've seen a few of them. Everyone I've spoken to seems pleased. I just haven't had the occasion to use one.
Hi Mike, I have an 90evo ,can you recommend a camshaft to beat the engine? Thanks
I don't normally make recommendations like that. I don't know what's in your engine or what you want it to do. Read what the manufacturers write in their description and pick the cam that meets your need.
what cam did you use on this build?
I believe it was a mild drop in from Jim's Machine.
Thanks , I could of used this Video back in 2001 lol, But I still enjoy watching someone do it right . I see guys doing it wrong and I cringe . No breather shim no shim or thrust washers on the cam , or pull the cam cover with the heads on and pushrods in place , They have No Idea the Value of run out on the pinion gear after 800 # pushing on the crank .
We all live and learn, all of us. Thank You.
I also believe that this is a great time to check your side to side gear engagement from the pinion to the cam gear. It should also be done at various locations just in case there is any pinion shaft run-out. Per Andrew's .000"- .0005" is the proper mesh between the two gears. I measure EVERYTHING with .108" drill rods just to make sure everything is perfect. Like Jeff (JC) I've seen my share of rookie mistakes.
@@kennethwise7108 Its not my first Rodeo but I still watch everything and check my measurements to get it in spec .
@@JCcanU Yep, most knuckle draggers just throw the cam in the motor and call it done. I've seen sooo many people who do that and end up damaging crap once it fails. Oh well, it ain't my bike..
I Know I'm late to the party but you don't mind using the plastic breather? I thought the s.s. one would be a better choice but what do I know.
I've used them both with no problems.
Hello Mike, I have been enjoying the videos. I have a 1985 Harley Davidson FXRS Evolution Engine 1340 cc. I have an Andrews EV3 Cam, and the pinion shaft is marked red. The EV3 Cam doesn't have any color marked on it and the pinion gear has no color marking on it? I was trying to put the pinion gear on it but it doesn't want to go on all the way? Does the color code determine if it will fit on the pinion?
Should I buy a pinion gear that has a red marking on it? And does the EV3 work ok with that? Thank you much!
That gear should go on. Not to dismiss your problem, but check carefully for a burr somewhere, either inside the gear or on the pinion shaft. The gears should mesh properly. Andrews makes their cam gears to fit. I'm not saying you don't have a bad fit between your pinion gear and your cam gear. It happens. Your service manual shows how to measure those gears and also explains the "Color Code" on them.
@@pacificmike9501 Should it just slide on or does the pinion gear needs to be pressed in or just tightening the pinion nut does it?
I can imagine it a little tight, but, the nut should put it on for you.
Hi Mike,
I am re assembling my 1985 FXR, my breather gear bore has some scoring in there. S&S recommends not to use thir reedvalve breather i earlier bottom breathing evos. Some guys have mention to install reedvave breather gear in there and others not to. Whats your thoughts on using these reedvalves on bottom breathing evos?
I'm afraid I'm in the same boat you are. I've been told both. I actually haven't used them, but the reports are good. I would have to go with S&S recommendations. Try sscycle.com
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply mike, the reply from S&S is that they can sump to much oil out with the reedvalve. Im just going to go with a new OEM plastic breather.
I think they know what they're talking about.
Have a 99 flstf with 24k miles. Have a sidecar and need more in 5th gear. 5th is a dog at 70mph and 4th is revved out. I'd like 75 mph on the interstate and I'd like to shift less going up hill.
My question is...What cam would you recommend? Ev27, Wood W6?
Any of the "drop in" cams would be an improvement. Read what the cam grinders write about where the power is on their specific cam. This will tell you. I don't recommend brands.
Thank you and I really appreciate the videos you're creating.
Thank You.
how do you torque the pinion nut? and to how many lbft thanks
Use a torque wrench and the spec is in the book. Use a year and model specific manual.
Hope you will answer this, It didn't seem to make any difference what position the con rods were in, top or bottom of stroke, as long as the marks on pinion , cam , and breather line up, is that correct? Do the marks line up every rotation of crank? I'm working on my 97 that's why the questions. Thanks.
Do not concern yourself with how the marks are in relation to left and right. Line up everything properly in the camchest. Now it is correct. What goes on with the flywheel marks, is not relevant at this time. When you're ready to time the ignition, then, you relate only to the flywheel marks, being sure you're on the compression stroke.
@@pacificmike9501 Great, thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
When I removed my plastic breather gear, I noticed that the bore where it rotates in doesn't look and feel super smooth. Should it be honed?
Nope. If it gets really bad and the motor is completely torn down, you can oversize the hole, then install an oversize breather gear. That's extreme circumstances. Don't look for problems when there aren't any.
You have some very nice and useful videos up.
@@pacificmike9501
Thank you. I was advised to install a S&S steel cam breather.
Hi Mike big fan! I have a problem in my Evo build i lose presure on hot the light from the oil light up, the original bomb is ok we rebuilded with a kit and tested, i tested with a hiflow ultima oil Pump it did it again same sympthoms, we changed lifters they are new, what are the other points of the circuit pressure some One talked the nose cone. What do you think? Best regards!
You could have any number of issues. But, if you have the right pump and the cam cover your motor came with, it should be all right. I became frustrated at one point and bought a quality, mechanical, oil gauge. I bought it from Snap-On. It was not cheap, but it was a real piece of precision equipment. If I'm losing oil pressure, I want to know where and when. Remember, what you really want is flow, volume, rather than high pressure. Read your MANUAL and hook up a good, mechanical gauge. I ran a long hose from the hole where the oil pressure sending unit screws in and taped the gauge to the speedo. Know how much pressure you have at startup, when the pressure drops, and how low.
@@pacificmike9501 do you now
tp engineering oil pump for Evo? What do you think?
Can you remove cam cover while its on the bike ?
Yes. Go through proper steps, as per the service manual.
Hey mike I’m having trouble finding a pinion shaft spacer for my evo. The Jim’s spacer isn’t correct for my evo. 1988. My stock plastic one got melted in the process of taking it apart and now this things got my whole build on hold! I appreciate any guidance you can give me to finding one
Go to a Harley dealership. They should have those parts. Did you order a spacer for an 88, or did you just say "Evo?"
@@pacificmike9501 well I work at sea coast Harley Davidson as a tech and I asked my parts guy to look up the OEM number and our system, Talon, said “obsolete” and “out of stock” which is why I turned to the Jim’s alternative
Any of the aftermarket suppliers should have it. Are you sure your parts guy ordered it to fit your year model?
according to part 4 of the videos you did not torque the pinion nut cuz ya had no way of holding it
You're sure about that.
Can you just use the straight edge without the gasket to measure the breather endplay? Seems more accurate?
You need to calculate for the gasket crushing.
@@pacificmike9501 Im putting an S+S metal breather in and I got those James gaskets with the rubber bead. Not really sure how to get an accurate reading. :/
You need enough, but not too much. Figure it by the book and you'll be close enough.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you sir. Love your videos. Helped me immensely!!!
We try. Thank You.
Mike can you help me settle a friendly (so far) disagreement, not related to this video but I think this is probably up your alley. I recently commented on a FB post to a fellow that was asking about what year his dad's bike was based on a 1949 photo. The bike was a hydraglide and since the photo was taken in 49 it was a pretty simple deduction that the bike was a brand new 49 since the 48 was still a Springer. This bike also had the black lower fork sliders which I thought made it even easier because I was under the impression that those black sliders were a one year only for 49. That's were the disagreement starts, someone sent me a message telling me that I was wrong and that HD offered those black sliders on several different years. I've only ever seen it on the 49 as stock from HD. Do you have any knowledge on this? I still believe I'm correct but before I put my foot in my mouth I'd like to verify it. Any opinion? Thanks Dennis. PS I enjoy your work and I subscribe! 😁
Thank you. I had to refer to my books to answer this one. And, of course, I hope the book is correct. I've seen black lower legs many times, but didn't know they were a "one year only." According to Bruce Palmer's Restoration Guide (How To Restore Your Harley Davidson), 1949 was the only year to have black sliders, and they were used on all models. That's the best I can do. I've had a lot of lower legs polished. I've had a lot of them chromed. I prefer polished. But, it seems in 1949, HD painted them all black.
Hi mike your fan are friend Jeff pickens i have a 1967 harley electricgluide. Iam learning to work on with the help of your videos. Is it possible to chat with you for questions about tools and part's. I might need from time to time.i also have a builders bike from a company called E&M from ST louis , MO it is a 113 evo motorcycle.
I think it would be fine, but, I don't think either of us wants to announce our home address or phone number to the world. I apologize for that.
YOU GOING TO PUT IT TOGETHER THIS YEAR, YOU TALK A JOB TO DEATH ..
COULD YOU GO ANY SLOOOOWER ..
The Evos have been done for years. Where have you been?