It often takes a lot of torque to loosen a freewheel. Rather than using a large wrench, I found it safer to put the removal tool in a vise and turn the wheel. You get plenty of leverage and less chance of skinned knuckles. The splined tools like Shimano or Atom won’t slip, but the ones that have a pair of bosses on them can slip if you allow the tool to tilt while you are struggling to loosen the freewheel. In such cases, you can secure the tool against the freewheel using the quick release skewer . Of course, as soon as you get the freewheel to loosen a bit, you have to take the skewer off. The threads that hold the freewheel onto the hub are very fine and easy to cross thread because they aluminum. When you install a freewheel, grease the threads and use the removal tool. Hold the wheel horizontally so the freewheel rests on the hub and rotate CCW until you feel the “click” indicating the start of the thread is in position. Turn CW (right) and if you feel resistance, back it off and try again. Again, a good vise, solidly mounted to your bench, is a wonderful tool.
Good video Tony. My last freewheel I stripped fully, added additional ball bearings and lubricated it with graphited grease (used for gear mechanisms exposed to the elements). It never gave any trouble in the ten years or so I had it on my bike. And it didn't make any noise at all - so when approaching pedestrians I had to give them warning I was behind them.
Where did you get the graphited grease? Sounds like a good idea. Taking apart the freewheel to replace ball bearing and lubrication can be tricky (small tiny ball bearings, pawls and springs). Give you credit for the well done job. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I've had the grease about 30 years - can't remember where I bought it. You're spot on with the tiny ball bearings, pawls and springs. I took it apart to see what it looked like - 2 days later I got it back together (had to find ball bearings of the correct size).
I’m a mechanic that recently ran into a freewheel issue on a 45 year old schwinn. In its highest gearing it caused a clunking, skipping sensation in the cranks. My first intuition was bottom bracket. Next, I assumed the axle might be broken. It took some trial and error before I realized that it was freewheel failure. Usually they are built like tanks, but this original freewheel, French-made for Schwinn, had finally shit the bed after nearly a half century!! 😂
Not seen that - very interesting. Especially the fact that it was only happenening in the highest gear. I assume you replaced the freewheel and now all is well. Thanks for sharing, Tony
Hey! Just found out your channel and this video addresses my questions, but not fully. I have a freewheel bike and the bolt on axel has bent twice (tends to due so because of cheap build quality and leverage from the bearings and the bikes frame). I really hate replacing my axle and buying ones alot to keep fixing this issue and Im trying to just fully replace the wheel with a freehub to solve this issue. Any tips or recommendations? If you think this is a good video idea, I really do appreciate you making a video on about this conversion. Thanks alot
I don't think the investment in a new rear wheel (freehub and cassette) is worth it. Save your money and, hopefully, you can eventually step up to a better built bike. Thanks for asking and be safe, Tony
Hey Toni, this is the only video i found that's relevant to the problems ive been having with my freehub so if you could help me with it that'll be amazing. So i get this grinding/clunking noise when im coasting, and i can hear the grind when i turn the hub. Should i take a look at the bearings? Its a fairly new bike so i dont think its dirt that might have gotten inside
I assume that the grinding/clunking only occurs while coasting but not pedaling. This would certainly suggest a freehub problem (possibly need lubrication or a broken component inside the freehub). If you hear the grinding when you pedal or turn the crank, this suggest other possibilities including the wheel hub bearings or bottom bracket. It's difficult to diagnose via the internet and it would pay to have your local bike shop take a look. Regards, Tony
This is ver helpful to understand how it works. Should I be worried if freewheel noise completely disappeared? I had a lot of rainy rides while commuting last few months and with temperatures dropping I no longer hear any clicking sounds when coasting.
If the freewheel works well but lacks the usual sound, it is possible that the lubricant in the freewheel has become more viscous with the cold muffling the sound of the pawls so you hear less clicking. I have mimicked this by adding Tenacious oil (which is quite viscous) to Shimano freehubs in order to quiet the clicking noise. If freewheel becomes quiet but does NOT drive the bike forward, the pawls in the freehub may have become gummed up and not moving properly requiring some maintenance or overhaul. In conclusion, if the bike still works well, I wouldn't do anything. Keep me informed. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good video Tony! I have a new ebike with hub motor that has an annoying clunk the occurs when resuming pedaling after coasting. The chain and pedals move an 1/8th or so of a turn before the freewheel engages with a metallic clunk which I can feel. Does this in all gears and I can lift the rear wheel off the ground and pedal/coast and it still does this. I think something is wrong with the freewheel. I emailed a video of this to the bike mfg/dealer and they basically blew me off and said there is nothing wrong that this is normal. I have owned several bikes and ebikes and none had this problem. What do you think?
The most common causes of clunking as you engage the pedal are bottom bracket problems, freehub (freewheel ) clutch mech in the motor. Ebikes should not make noise (other then some hum from the motor) unless there are specific problems with derailleur adjustment, old rusty chain, or chain slap occurring when the rear derailleur clutch is engaged. See: th-cam.com/video/oaEjBgEY91Y/w-d-xo.html Unfortunately, ebike mfg/dealers my cycling companions have dealt with do not seem responsive to their needs. You can go back to the dealer and tell them that you think there is or a problem with the bottom bracket, freehub or clutch mechanism but I have a feeling that you'll need to look for a ebike service and repair in your surrounding area who will be more responsive to the problem. I wish I could be more of a help but do let me know how you make out. We all can learn by your experience. Thanks and be well, Tony
I'm getting a clunk in mine on every peddle stroke after climbing a 14% grade, I took it to the bike shop and they said they didn't hear anything, I paid for a tune up, got it back home and sure enough clunking it there. Only on the lower half of gears though, 1st-3rd sound great where as 4th-7th make the clunking sound.
I'm assuming you understand the 1st is the smallest cog. From your comments I also understand that the clunking sound is only when the bike is under extreme stress, that is, when climbing in the largest gears, once every pedal stroke which put a lot of force and torque on the bike. It is unlikely to be freehub or freewheel but rather suggests bottom bracket. On the repair stand, one may not hear any clunking as one would hear when pushing very hard on the pedals. My best guess would be bottom bracket (although I can't rule out pedal noise). Take a look at the following video: th-cam.com/video/InW64uutftM/w-d-xo.html If chainring bolts are tight and there's no movement of the crank suggesting loose fixing bolts as shown in the video, the next step for me would be to overhaul the bottom bracket. The shop should have suggested this. You can take it back to the shop or possibly find a bike mechanic with a little more time to overhaul the BB. Let me know how you make out. Clunking sounds are not only annoying but indicate or result in a more serious problem. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed On my bikes the shifter indicates 1st when the chain is in the largest gear. The popping only started after a big climb, when I posted this it was doing it even on flat ground while peddling normal. I removed the wheel and found play in the freewheel, I noticed I could turn the lock ring with my finger very easily so I tightened it, I do not have the proper tool so I used a screw driver and tapped it lightly with a small hammer. Seems the sound is gone now, I am hoping that is all it was. I am pretty dissapointed that I only brought it to the bike shop for this problem, he made all kinds of adjustments but never took the rear wheel off and looked at it when popping and the gears jumping between 3rd and 4th were the complaints. I even purchased 2 new bikes that week from him so I figured he would go the extra mile for me. Thank you for the response, I appreciate it. I will definitely have a look at the bottom bracket as well as this is a department store bike and I am sure it was not assembled with much quality in mind.
@@jason-white Very interesting. I've seen this problem a few years ago when my partners bike started making all kinds of noise and the back wheel locked up. Took off the rear wheel and used the same screw driver hack to tighten up the cassette. We were then able to get home. Subsequently, I made a video about the incident: th-cam.com/video/XdShMsbFNPg/w-d-xo.html Not the first thing you think of when you hear a clunking sound, unless it's coming from the rear wheel or the rear wheel locks up. As for the shifter indicating that the largest cog is gear 1, I've seen that with some grip shifters and a few other types. Obviously not correct and makes you wonder if that's a Chinese standard. I'm glad you were persistent in tackling the noise problem and we all can learn from your experience. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I am going to take it on a longer ride around town this weekend to confirm but yeh it's nice having it back together. As far as the gear numbers, even the Shimano shifters on my new Marin mountain bike indicate 1 as the largest gear is the rear but the smallest gear in front. My Specialized Allez dose not indicate any numbers at all on the gears, just a little orange line that moves when you shift.
Hey Tony GREAT video! love your content!!!! My bicycle has an issue which I haven't yet discovered what the problem is . I also have little experience fixing my own bike. Every time I pedal hard, it does a loud sound, and the force does not increase my speed. At first it wasn't a big issue. but now the simplest elevation on the road becomes a hustle to ride since it kinda "slips" and makes noise whenever i put extra pressure on the pedal and i end up kicking the ground like a skateboarder, please help
The most likely culprit is the freehub (or freewheel depending on what's installed on your bike). See: th-cam.com/video/TMWmnv6o9Zc/w-d-xo.html The other possibility is slippage of the crank or bottom bracket problems. See: th-cam.com/video/kx56KXCluz4/w-d-xo.html In either case, you need to have the bike looked at by a bicycle mechanic with experience. Hopefully you have a bike store / repair shop close by. Let me know how you make out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed thanks for the quick response!! i will definitely go through the links you sent me . Also i oiled my bike today and it significantly improved. Although it still does it when i apply a lot of pressure. Yes their is a experienced mechanic around the neighborhood who's been fixing bikes since i was a boy. I will soon take it to him and let you know exactly what was wrong. Once again i appreciate your feedback🙏🏾
Hi Tony, thanks so much for your informative videos. I have a relatively new bike with a Shimano 7-Speed Freewheel (14-34t) that is making a rather loud clanging noise while pedaling. I have recorded a short video of a close up of the freewheel while the noise happens. In the video you can see the freewheel itself moving ever so slightly. Could I possibly send you the video via email or something? I could even upload it to my youtube channel and send you a link if that would work for you. I'm not a bicycle mechanic but I am wanting to get more familiar with how it all works because I plan to be a bike traveler for the rest of my life. Any help you are willing to offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I don't accept video via my email or channel (too much malware out there). It sounds like a problem with the freewheel (broken spring or pawl). Another possibility is a problem with the bottom bracket. This is not something I can solve over the internet. My suggestion is to take it back to the dealer who sold you the bike or to your local bike shop. I wish I can be of more help. Regards, Tony
This is pretty much expected behavior. When you're pedaling forward, the top half of the chain is pulled tight by the tension from your pedaling, and the lower half is held in tension by the derailleur. The derailleur is also very close to the rear sprockets so it can guide the nicely-tensioned chain onto the proper gear. When you pedal backwards, you pull on the bottom of the chain which pulls the derailleur forward. That creates chain slack. Some of that chain slack shows up on the top half of the chain as the chain links get dumped off the front chainring into space on the way backwards. If you watch the chain closely when you pedal backwards, you can actually see the top of the chain go slack and flop around a bit. So when you're pedaling backwards there's nothing on the top side to maintain tension. A slack chain will flop around and there's nothing on the top side to guide where the chain lands on the rear gears. So the loose flopping chain is free to go where it wants. Derailleur-equipped bicycles are not designed to be pedaled backwards. Pedaling backwards is a great way to drop your chain, especially if you do it suddenly and hard. With that said, I can easily pedal backward on my Independent Fabrication and my Titanium Lightspeed Classic. However, every once in a while, as i back up the bike to put it in the car, the chain becomes slack and drops off the small chainring. Pedaling backward is more of a problem with my Giant Mountain Bike. However, there are a couple of things to check if pedaling backward is a constant problem. Check for chain, cassette and chainring wear. See: th-cam.com/video/g5uqTNmikro/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Check that the indexing (shifting) is smooth and the guide pulley (the upper one) is lined up with the cog above it. Check for a bent derailleur hanger. See: th-cam.com/video/qHK6jQizIdc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Finally, put the bike on a stand and spin the wheel forward as in coasting. Does the wheel easily turn. If not, there may be grime and grease build up in the freehub. Does the crank turn as you spin the wheel forward or back. See: th-cam.com/video/TMWmnv6o9Zc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand See if the above solve your problem. It may just be the particular rear derailleur/drivetrain as it is on my Giant MTB but you can also check with your local bike shop. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
on my hub i have a lock ring with slots on the outside . remove this lock ring , all sprockets come off individually ,with 3.2 mm spacers in between {except the smallest of the 7 cogs ,14 tooth has a built in spacer ] . inside the hub is splines that do not turn backwards with the hub . there is no hollow bolt to secure it . the hub has 2 different diameters .it steps up next to the wheel to hold the larger cogs . there is a wide spot on the hub cog splines so that the cogs can only go on one way . is this a hybrid freewheel of some type ? or a freehub . i have not located a tool to remove the hub yet . so im not sure what i have .
Freewheel and freehubs should both turn counter clockwise when you hold the wheel such that it tire/rim do not move. This is what allows coasting. It sounds like you have a freehub of some sort but I am not familiar with it and I'm not sure why you want to take it apart. Freehubs and freewheels can be tricky to re-assemble. What is the make of you 7 speed hub (may be on the hub or on the cogs) and I'll look it up? Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed it was sticking , it got dirty from sand etc .so I wanted to remove the hub from the wheel to clean it . But I need to buy the tool . I did get it cleaned by using wd -40 . Thanks . It has a plastic shield on the spokes that says shimano hyperglide . It actually looks similar to one you removed gears from, in that the hub diameter steps up for the larger sprockets. I suspect it is a freewheel . I was hoping to find info on it ,as I would like to add a gear if I can buy a single and use thinner spacers . Either way ,thanks for taking time to respond . 👍
Any where from $8 to $15 at Amazon or Ebay but make sure you get the correct tool for your freewheel. See: th-cam.com/video/iTJ3taJHOn8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool Regards, Tony
Sometimes you just don’t have the right freewheel tool. If you are ambitious and simply have to take the thing off, you can dismantle the freewheel, leaving just the part that is threaded onto the hub. That part will have several cutouts where the ratchet pawls go. You can stick this in a sturdy vise and those cutouts will keep it from slipping while you apply @&$!# torque to the wheel. Never failed to get the thing off. If you are replacing the freewheel, great. If not, you have an interesting project assembling the multitude of tiny balls and the pawls with their springs. Kind of satisfying, I have to admit.
Thanks for the tip. If there are some small notches in the center ring of the freewheel, you may be able to knock the inner portion of the freewheel counter clockwise with a punch and hammer. Sometimes works but other times won't budge. Is this how you began to dismantle the freewheel?
@@tony10speed I haven’t had to do it in a while, but I think that ring (which serves as the outer bearing cone) is left-hand thread. The tricky part is putting it back together. Once you have all those tiny balls stuck in grease around the inner cup, you have to put it on over the pawls, which the springs are are making stick out, poised to knock some balls out. I’ve tied the pawls down with thread and pulled it off after I got the outer body on, but I’m sure there’s a better old school trick out there.
In some cases, it is possible to run a cassette from a different brand than the rest of your drivetrain. SRAM and Shimano cassettes, on either road or mountain bike, are interchangeable with each other as the spacing is the same between the sprockets. These freehubs will require a different size spacer to be placed on the freehub (before attaching the cassette) depending on whether you're running a 9, 10 or 11 speed. However, Campagnolo road cassettes will only work with Campagnolo drivetrains. If you're thinking about upgrading to 12-speed, it's likely that you'll need to change your freehub. Shimano 12-speed Cassettes will only work with their Microspline Freehub body and SRAM 12-speed cassettes can only be used with the SC Freehub body. With 1x (single front chainring), things become even more complicated. See: dcrwheels.co.uk/freehub-body-types-what-is-compatible-with-what/ Regards, Tony
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It often takes a lot of torque to loosen a freewheel. Rather than using a large wrench, I found it safer to put the removal tool in a vise and turn the wheel. You get plenty of leverage and less chance of skinned knuckles.
The splined tools like Shimano or Atom won’t slip, but the ones that have a pair of bosses on them can slip if you allow the tool to tilt while you are struggling to loosen the freewheel. In such cases, you can secure the tool against the freewheel using the quick release skewer . Of course, as soon as you get the freewheel to loosen a bit, you have to take the skewer off.
The threads that hold the freewheel onto the hub are very fine and easy to cross thread because they aluminum. When you install a freewheel, grease the threads and use the removal tool. Hold the wheel horizontally so the freewheel rests on the hub and rotate CCW until you feel the “click” indicating the start of the thread is in position. Turn CW (right) and if you feel resistance, back it off and try again.
Again, a good vise, solidly mounted to your bench, is a wonderful tool.
Excellent advise. Viewers take note. Thanks, Tony
that clap at the beginning made me instantly know you are the chosen one for my bicycle tutorials. followed.
Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
So much useful information! Thanks for every single one of your videos!!!
You're welcome. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good video Tony. My last freewheel I stripped fully, added additional ball bearings and lubricated it with graphited grease (used for gear mechanisms exposed to the elements). It never gave any trouble in the ten years or so I had it on my bike. And it didn't make any noise at all - so when approaching pedestrians I had to give them warning I was behind them.
Where did you get the graphited grease? Sounds like a good idea. Taking apart the freewheel to replace ball bearing and lubrication can be tricky (small tiny ball bearings, pawls and springs). Give you credit for the well done job. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I've had the grease about 30 years - can't remember where I bought it. You're spot on with the tiny ball bearings, pawls and springs. I took it apart to see what it looked like - 2 days later I got it back together (had to find ball bearings of the correct size).
I’m a mechanic that recently ran into a freewheel issue on a 45 year old schwinn. In its highest gearing it caused a clunking, skipping sensation in the cranks. My first intuition was bottom bracket. Next, I assumed the axle might be broken. It took some trial and error before I realized that it was freewheel failure. Usually they are built like tanks, but this original freewheel, French-made for Schwinn, had finally shit the bed after nearly a half century!! 😂
Not seen that - very interesting. Especially the fact that it was only happenening in the highest gear. I assume you replaced the freewheel and now all is well. Thanks for sharing, Tony
Hey! Just found out your channel and this video addresses my questions, but not fully. I have a freewheel bike and the bolt on axel has bent twice (tends to due so because of cheap build quality and leverage from the bearings and the bikes frame). I really hate replacing my axle and buying ones alot to keep fixing this issue and Im trying to just fully replace the wheel with a freehub to solve this issue. Any tips or recommendations? If you think this is a good video idea, I really do appreciate you making a video on about this conversion. Thanks alot
I don't think the investment in a new rear wheel (freehub and cassette) is worth it. Save your money and, hopefully, you can eventually step up to a better built bike. Thanks for asking and be safe, Tony
Hey Toni, this is the only video i found that's relevant to the problems ive been having with my freehub so if you could help me with it that'll be amazing. So i get this grinding/clunking noise when im coasting, and i can hear the grind when i turn the hub. Should i take a look at the bearings? Its a fairly new bike so i dont think its dirt that might have gotten inside
I assume that the grinding/clunking only occurs while coasting but not pedaling. This would certainly suggest a freehub problem (possibly need lubrication or a broken component inside the freehub). If you hear the grinding when you pedal or turn the crank, this suggest other possibilities including the wheel hub bearings or bottom bracket. It's difficult to diagnose via the internet and it would pay to have your local bike shop take a look. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed thank you for the reply, I'll take it to the shop :)
This is ver helpful to understand how it works. Should I be worried if freewheel noise completely disappeared? I had a lot of rainy rides while commuting last few months and with temperatures dropping I no longer hear any clicking sounds when coasting.
If the freewheel works well but lacks the usual sound, it is possible that the lubricant in the freewheel has become more viscous with the cold muffling the sound of the pawls so you hear less clicking. I have mimicked this by adding Tenacious oil (which is quite viscous) to Shimano freehubs in order to quiet the clicking noise.
If freewheel becomes quiet but does NOT drive the bike forward, the pawls in the freehub may have become gummed up and not moving properly requiring some maintenance or overhaul.
In conclusion, if the bike still works well, I wouldn't
do anything. Keep me informed. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good explanation, thanks.
Glad to help. Regards, Tony
thanks for the video tony, it was very educational!!!
god bless and merry christmas!
Thank you and be well, Tony
Good video Tony! I have a new ebike with hub motor that has an annoying clunk the occurs when resuming pedaling after coasting. The chain and pedals move an 1/8th or so of a turn before the freewheel engages with a metallic clunk which I can feel. Does this in all gears and I can lift the rear wheel off the ground and pedal/coast and it still does this. I think something is wrong with the freewheel. I emailed a video of this to the bike mfg/dealer and they basically blew me off and said there is nothing wrong that this is normal. I have owned several bikes and ebikes and none had this problem. What do you think?
The most common causes of clunking as you engage the pedal are bottom bracket problems, freehub (freewheel ) clutch mech in the motor. Ebikes should not make noise (other then some hum from the motor) unless there are specific problems with derailleur adjustment, old rusty chain, or chain slap occurring when the rear derailleur clutch is engaged. See:
th-cam.com/video/oaEjBgEY91Y/w-d-xo.html
Unfortunately, ebike mfg/dealers my cycling companions have dealt with do not seem responsive to their needs. You can go back to the dealer and tell them that you think there is or a problem with the bottom bracket, freehub or clutch mechanism but I have a feeling that you'll need to look for a ebike service and repair in your surrounding area who will be more responsive to the problem.
I wish I could be more of a help but do let me know how you make out. We all can learn by your experience. Thanks and be well, Tony
I'm getting a clunk in mine on every peddle stroke after climbing a 14% grade, I took it to the bike shop and they said they didn't hear anything, I paid for a tune up, got it back home and sure enough clunking it there. Only on the lower half of gears though, 1st-3rd sound great where as 4th-7th make the clunking sound.
I'm assuming you understand the 1st is the smallest cog. From your comments I also understand that the clunking sound is only when the bike is under extreme stress, that is, when climbing in the largest gears, once every pedal stroke which put a lot of force and torque on the bike. It is unlikely to be freehub or freewheel but rather suggests bottom bracket. On the repair stand, one may not hear any clunking as one would hear when pushing very hard on the pedals. My best guess would be bottom bracket (although I can't rule out pedal noise). Take a look at the following video:
th-cam.com/video/InW64uutftM/w-d-xo.html
If chainring bolts are tight and there's no movement of the crank suggesting loose fixing bolts as shown in the video, the next step for me would be to overhaul the bottom bracket. The shop should have suggested this. You can take it back to the shop or possibly find a bike mechanic with a little more time to overhaul the BB.
Let me know how you make out. Clunking sounds are not only annoying but indicate or result in a more serious problem. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed On my bikes the shifter indicates 1st when the chain is in the largest gear. The popping only started after a big climb, when I posted this it was doing it even on flat ground while peddling normal. I removed the wheel and found play in the freewheel, I noticed I could turn the lock ring with my finger very easily so I tightened it, I do not have the proper tool so I used a screw driver and tapped it lightly with a small hammer. Seems the sound is gone now, I am hoping that is all it was. I am pretty dissapointed that I only brought it to the bike shop for this problem, he made all kinds of adjustments but never took the rear wheel off and looked at it when popping and the gears jumping between 3rd and 4th were the complaints. I even purchased 2 new bikes that week from him so I figured he would go the extra mile for me. Thank you for the response, I appreciate it. I will definitely have a look at the bottom bracket as well as this is a department store bike and I am sure it was not assembled with much quality in mind.
@@jason-white Very interesting. I've seen this problem a few years ago when my partners bike started making all kinds of noise and the back wheel locked up. Took off the rear wheel and used the same screw driver hack to tighten up the cassette. We were then able to get home. Subsequently, I made a video about the incident:
th-cam.com/video/XdShMsbFNPg/w-d-xo.html
Not the first thing you think of when you hear a clunking sound, unless it's coming from the rear wheel or the rear wheel locks up.
As for the shifter indicating that the largest cog is gear 1, I've seen that with some grip shifters and a few other types. Obviously not correct and makes you wonder if that's a Chinese standard.
I'm glad you were persistent in tackling the noise problem and we all can learn from your experience.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I am going to take it on a longer ride around town this weekend to confirm but yeh it's nice having it back together. As far as the gear numbers, even the Shimano shifters on my new Marin mountain bike indicate 1 as the largest gear is the rear but the smallest gear in front. My Specialized Allez dose not indicate any numbers at all on the gears, just a little orange line that moves when you shift.
Hey Tony GREAT video! love your content!!!!
My bicycle has an issue which I haven't yet discovered what the problem is . I also have little experience fixing my own bike. Every time I pedal hard, it does a loud sound, and the force does not increase my speed. At first it wasn't a big issue. but now the simplest elevation on the road becomes a hustle to ride since it kinda "slips" and makes noise whenever i put extra pressure on the pedal and i end up kicking the ground like a skateboarder, please help
The most likely culprit is the freehub (or freewheel depending on what's installed on your bike). See:
th-cam.com/video/TMWmnv6o9Zc/w-d-xo.html
The other possibility is slippage of the crank or bottom bracket problems. See:
th-cam.com/video/kx56KXCluz4/w-d-xo.html
In either case, you need to have the bike looked at by a bicycle mechanic with experience. Hopefully you have a bike store / repair shop close by.
Let me know how you make out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed thanks for the quick response!! i will definitely go through the links you sent me . Also i oiled my bike today and it significantly improved. Although it still does it when i apply a lot of pressure.
Yes their is a experienced mechanic around the neighborhood who's been fixing bikes since i was a boy. I will soon take it to him and let you know exactly what was wrong. Once again i appreciate your feedback🙏🏾
Hi Tony, thanks so much for your informative videos. I have a relatively new bike with a Shimano 7-Speed Freewheel (14-34t) that is making a rather loud clanging noise while pedaling. I have recorded a short video of a close up of the freewheel while the noise happens. In the video you can see the freewheel itself moving ever so slightly. Could I possibly send you the video via email or something? I could even upload it to my youtube channel and send you a link if that would work for you. I'm not a bicycle mechanic but I am wanting to get more familiar with how it all works because I plan to be a bike traveler for the rest of my life.
Any help you are willing to offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I don't accept video via my email or channel (too much malware out there). It sounds like a problem with the freewheel (broken spring or pawl). Another possibility is a problem with the bottom bracket. This is not something I can solve over the internet. My suggestion is to take it back to the dealer who sold you the bike or to your local bike shop. I wish I can be of more help. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Alright, thanks for your help!
Excellent vid
Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
My chain goes slack every time I backpedal or coast. What might be my problem? Iv got a 2000 or 2001 Schwinn Mesa
This is pretty much expected behavior.
When you're pedaling forward, the top half of the chain is pulled tight by the tension from your pedaling, and the lower half is held in tension by the derailleur. The derailleur is also very close to the rear sprockets so it can guide the nicely-tensioned chain onto the proper gear.
When you pedal backwards, you pull on the bottom of the chain which pulls the derailleur forward. That creates chain slack. Some of that chain slack shows up on the top half of the chain as the chain links get dumped off the front chainring into space on the way backwards. If you watch the chain closely when you pedal backwards, you can actually see the top of the chain go slack and flop around a bit. So when you're pedaling backwards there's nothing on the top side to maintain tension. A slack chain will flop around and there's nothing on the top side to guide where the chain lands on the rear gears. So the loose flopping chain is free to go where it wants.
Derailleur-equipped bicycles are not designed to be pedaled backwards. Pedaling backwards is a great way to drop your chain, especially if you do it suddenly and hard.
With that said, I can easily pedal backward on my Independent Fabrication and my Titanium Lightspeed Classic. However, every once in a while, as i back up the bike to put it in the car, the chain becomes slack and drops off the small chainring. Pedaling backward is more of a problem with my Giant Mountain Bike.
However, there are a couple of things to check if pedaling backward is a constant problem. Check for chain, cassette and chainring wear. See:
th-cam.com/video/g5uqTNmikro/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Check that the indexing (shifting) is smooth and the guide pulley (the upper one) is lined up with the cog above it. Check for a bent derailleur hanger. See:
th-cam.com/video/qHK6jQizIdc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Finally, put the bike on a stand and spin the wheel forward as in coasting. Does the wheel easily turn. If not, there may be grime and grease build up in the freehub. Does the crank turn as you spin the wheel forward or back. See:
th-cam.com/video/TMWmnv6o9Zc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
See if the above solve your problem. It may just be the particular rear derailleur/drivetrain as it is on my Giant MTB but you can also check with your local bike shop.
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
on my hub i have a lock ring with slots on the outside . remove this lock ring , all sprockets come off individually ,with 3.2 mm spacers in between {except the smallest of the 7 cogs ,14 tooth has a built in spacer ] . inside the hub is splines that do not turn backwards with the hub . there is no hollow bolt to secure it . the hub has 2 different diameters .it steps up next to the wheel to hold the larger cogs . there is a wide spot on the hub cog splines so that the cogs can only go on one way . is this a hybrid freewheel of some type ? or a freehub . i have not located a tool to remove the hub yet . so im not sure what i have .
Freewheel and freehubs should both turn counter clockwise when you hold the wheel such that it tire/rim do not move. This is what allows coasting. It sounds like you have a freehub of some sort but I am not familiar with it and I'm not sure why you want to take it apart. Freehubs and freewheels can be tricky to re-assemble. What is the make of you 7 speed hub (may be on the hub or on the cogs) and I'll look it up?
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed it was sticking , it got dirty from sand etc .so I wanted to remove the hub from the wheel to clean it . But I need to buy the tool . I did get it cleaned by using wd -40 . Thanks . It has a plastic shield on the spokes that says shimano hyperglide . It actually looks similar to one you removed gears from, in that the hub diameter steps up for the larger sprockets. I suspect it is a freewheel . I was hoping to find info on it ,as I would like to add a gear if I can buy a single and use thinner spacers . Either way ,thanks for taking time to respond . 👍
Are the freewheel removal tools expensive?
Any where from $8 to $15 at Amazon or Ebay but make sure you get the correct tool for your freewheel. See:
th-cam.com/video/iTJ3taJHOn8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ParkTool
Regards, Tony
Sometimes you just don’t have the right freewheel tool. If you are ambitious and simply have to take the thing off, you can dismantle the freewheel, leaving just the part that is threaded onto the hub. That part will have several cutouts where the ratchet pawls go. You can stick this in a sturdy vise and those cutouts will keep it from slipping while you apply @&$!# torque to the wheel. Never failed to get the thing off. If you are replacing the freewheel, great. If not, you have an interesting project assembling the multitude of tiny balls and the pawls with their springs. Kind of satisfying, I have to admit.
Thanks for the tip. If there are some small notches in the center ring of the freewheel, you may be able to knock the inner portion of the freewheel counter clockwise with a punch and hammer. Sometimes works but other times won't budge. Is this how you began to dismantle the freewheel?
@@tony10speed
I haven’t had to do it in a while, but I think that ring (which serves as the outer bearing cone) is left-hand thread. The tricky part is putting it back together. Once you have all those tiny balls stuck in grease around the inner cup, you have to put it on over the pawls, which the springs are are making stick out, poised to knock some balls out. I’ve tied the pawls down with thread and pulled it off after I got the outer body on, but I’m sure there’s a better old school trick out there.
@@trackie1957 You're right. Putting it back together again so tricky, I rather just but a new freewheel for about $25. Safe cycling, Tony
Are all freehub cassettes interchangeable?
In some cases, it is possible to run a cassette from a different brand than the rest of your drivetrain.
SRAM and Shimano cassettes, on either road or mountain bike, are interchangeable with each other as the spacing is the same between the sprockets. These freehubs will require a different size spacer to be placed on the freehub (before attaching the cassette) depending on whether you're running a 9, 10 or 11 speed.
However, Campagnolo road cassettes will only work with Campagnolo drivetrains.
If you're thinking about upgrading to 12-speed, it's likely that you'll need to change your freehub. Shimano 12-speed Cassettes will only work with their Microspline Freehub body and SRAM 12-speed cassettes can only be used with the SC Freehub body.
With 1x (single front chainring), things become even more complicated. See:
dcrwheels.co.uk/freehub-body-types-what-is-compatible-with-what/
Regards, Tony
Are there any translation for video?
just turn on captions in your prefered language