Bike Cassette Play and Cassette Wobble - fix, prevention and bike maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- I was cycling with my friend when suddenly he stopped. My back wheel is jammed and won't turn. We'll demonstrate on my bike on the stand. First, we checked the brakes pads to make sure they weren't rubbing. The rear derailleur hanger appears straight and the wheel inserted correctly. What I did notice was that the whole cassette wobbled and I could move it from side to side. I shifted his bike as though shifting to the smallest chainring although the chain didn't move (this would make it easier to replace the wheel. When I took off the wheel, the lockring had completely come off and the cassette was loose. I asked him how old the cassette was and he said since he got the bike about 6 or 7 years ago. I also asked him when was the last time he torqued the rear cassette onto the freewheel. "Never."
I made sure all the cassette cogs and spacers where properly on the freehub and tightened the locking by hand. Then with the straight edge of my multi tool, I push the groves in the lockring as hard as I could (you could use a small rock to pound it tighter but I didn't want to damage the lockring). I replaced the wheel and we both road the next 15 miles home. A quick easy repair and fix.
This emphasizes the need to make sure the cassette is properly torqued each time you do yearly bike maintenance or replace your cassette. The method we suggest is quick and easy as shown in the upper right corner.
A loose cassette can cause wear and damage to the freehub spline and in this case could leave you out on the road without a way home. The trick to getting the cassette back on and tight is not hard. But had this problem happened when going fast or downhill, it could have brought the cyclist to a holt and been disastrous. So, keep that cassette torqued and pay attention to a good maintenance schedule to prevent other problems.
Just a note: Cassette play and wobble can also occur when installing a new cassette such as a 9 or 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed freehub if you forget to place the proper spacer on first to adapt the spacing for the 9 or 10 speed. Wobble can also seem to be occurring if the wheel is out of true or the wheel has not been properly inserted into the bike frame dropouts.
You stopped me pulling my hair out! Watched till the end and realised that I’d left the washer in my old cassette so the new one was wobbling! Thank you, really helpful tutorial.
You're Welcome. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I think that's what's wrong with my cassette I have pulled it apart because it was very loose and I don't think theres a washer on it so it will not tighten up
@@INSANE_VIDEOS Here's a neat article that may of interest:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
Regards, Tony
Thank you so much! This saved me the night before a big ride during a time where all the bike shops in the area were already closed. I'm so happy I didn't have to abort after all the prep. for it!
What did you do to fix the problem (we can all learn by your feedback)? Tony
@@tony10speed shifted down to the smallest cog, took the wheel off, removed the skewers then confirmed that a loose lock ring was indeed the issue. I hand-tightened the cassette from the other end of the hub, however. Used a multi tool to hold the cassette in place and tightened from the other side. I don't have a lock ring tool so I'm gonna take it to a LBS later today to have some peace of mind. I was able to complete my ride today with zero issues, again, thanks to this video.
@@osamawali09 Great. Interestingly enough, I fixed a loose cassette mid-ride in the exact same manner and tightened the cassette with a lockring tool when I got home. Good thinking. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Your vids are great for education on bike fixes, I started doing my own repair work again and like to look at other peoples methods for greater insight. Hope u are well and good day sir.
Thank you. Start with maintenance and easy repairs. When in doubt, consult your local bike store. I learned alot early on by watching the mechanics work on my bike and went from there. It takes time and patience. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
4:20 ugh you saved my ass, i removed that washer thinking it was leftover from the previous cassette. thanks pal
You're Welcome. Glad it was a help. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you Tony. I like your clear and succinct explanations. This video was particularly helpful.
You're Welcome. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I had al interesting issue yesterday…
Which concerns me.
My cassette was incredibly lose but the lockring was tight, as if it had lost a whole spacer or something was extremely worn out (spacer was there, nothing looks worn out, before was always tight)
I solved it by putting a second spacer and small spacers to beach side before the dropouts, because the chain was hitting the frame and would go into the 1st cog properly.
But again my concern is…
How could this have happened?
How to avoid it?
Was my fix in some way not a good idea?
Several possibilites if prior to the problem, all was functioning well (I am assuming you have not installed a new wheel/hub):
1. Chain rubbing against frame in smallest cog:
Make sure the wheel is centered in the drop outs. Remove the wheel and replace it, pulling up to center the wheel. Also see:
th-cam.com/video/0MHBHFu4CrA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RJTheBikeGuy
I myself do not like the idea of needing to add a washer to make the distance between the dropouts greater since it puts undue pressure on the wheel dropouts. If you're using a new wheel and hub, it may not be properly sized for the rear wheel drop outs.
2. Sudden new wobble in cassette despite being fine prior and the lock ring is still tight: Sounds like a broken cassette or possibly, a second spacer cracked and feel out. Check for the width and number of spacers needed. See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
If all has been working well prior but now these problems suddenly appear and are not fixed as in RJ's video above or the spacers are correct but you still have wobble and rubbing, you may have a broken cassette itself. Take it to your local bike mechanic for examination rather then jerry-rigging a fix.
Let me have some feed back so we can all become educated as to the particular problem. Thanks, Tony
Thank you so so much for your answer!
Maybe a bit of context would be interesting:
No new parts. It was everything absolutely tight, centered and perfect before this case appeared.
1. It’s a Steel 90s MTB (Mongoose Iboc Comp), and the dropout width when no rim is in, is pretty wide; haven’t measured yet myself but it’s lot more than the rim I run, which is a Mavic Aksyum 135mm, it has to bend a lot to come in, and it’s been running strong even after many uses in real MTBking and jumps, proper strong steel. So I wouldn’t concern of the pressure, if anything it’s relieving it haha
2. I’m running a 7speed 90s Shimanl cassette on this Extralong Mavic hub, so back then when I got this wheel set I ordered a single precisely sized Spacer for this matter and it was so exactly fitted, had no play to any side. But now I fitted the spacer 1.75mm that came with the Mavic on top of the already existing spacer and it has still just a tad bit of Hub play which to my understanding, is adequate. The cassette didn’t look worn out at any place… actually nothing looked worn out
That’s what really is mysterious to me, but maybe I can give it a triple check if I missed something.
My guess is, that the smallest cog which is separate to the rest of the cassette may actually be worn out or lost something on the way.
PD: The bike is working and sounding now like the great machine she is! But I’m concerned on how did this happen to avoid it in the future. Also a great challenge to pinpoint the issue.
Thanks for your time and knowledge! If I find something I’ll make sure to share it :)
Nice explainer video and fix!
Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the video you just got my bike up and running again. That was my problem. 🙂
Glad you were able to solve it. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hey! My casette is fully tightened with the lockring, but it still whobbles. Also when i pedal backwards, the tire moves backwards aswell. Is it a freehub problem?
A couple of things:
Did you forget a space that is often required between the cassette and the freehub? See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
and
forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/comment/19008270#Comment_19008270
Also, when you pedal backward on a bike stand, the momentum of the crank may cause a slight backward movement of the back wheel. If it's more then slight, you may have a freehub problem. See:
th-cam.com/video/TMWmnv6o9Zc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Let me know how you make out.
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed so both bearings and spacers of the freehub were completely ruined. LBS said i probably rode too long without knowing. Thnx for your comment
Once after removing the cassette for cleaning I forgot to fully retighten it to 40 NM. When under load while climbing, I kept hearing a creaking noise. It took me some time to track it down.
Thanks for the feedback. Another source of creaking to add to our list. Thanks and safe cycling, Tony
Always entertaining and educational!! Thanks
Thanks for the comment. Never know what you'll encounter on the road, let alone how to fix it. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you! I went today to service and they told me they fixed the problem, but it is not. I got knocking sound back with each wheel spin, but it is not constant, it happens for sometime and after pause, with next pedal push it will go away, but eventually knocking will start again. After watching this video a tried to move the cassette, and it is moving. I will go tommorow to the service again, and I will point to this, hopefully they will take a better look. I have guarantee paper so I will try to get this fixed without paying.
Sounds like a missing washer that's suppose to be installed before the cassette. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you for responding. Cassette was completely replaced as I had warranty. I think you are right, that was probably an issue, they actually did not tell me what was the real problem. It is all good now. Cheers!
@@stefankaric3432 Cheers and safe cycling, Tony
Hi, when finished doing service to my rear 9 speed wheel cassette ,once I replaced wheel back on bike I turned cranks backwards checking for any stiff links, the chain moved from smallest rear cog to the next one up, the H/L screws where good looking without attaching gear cable for indexing, checked the wheel for centre and was good, any thoughts on whats going on please?
If the limiting screws are set to allow movement (by hand) to the smallest and largest cogs, the problem is in the cable tension when you index the rear derailleur. Here's how I do it:
th-cam.com/video/6C3SkRkD8Hs/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if this helps. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I love biking but don't have the mechanic knowledge,I just watched your video and I might try it out.I am scared I will mess something up and won't be able to put on the rear wheel again
It's a learning process. Start with removing and replacing the rear wheel. See:
th-cam.com/video/2pnbJ64zvME/w-d-xo.html
There may be slight differences if you're running disc brakes or thru axles.
Regards, Tony
Thank you very much @@tony10speed
I have a side by side play on my cogs but not as much as shown in the video Tony and also I don't have problems in turning the wheels either. The only thing I noticed is that even just by pressing on to the pedal using my hand while braking brings a clicking, creaking sound from the cogs. So when I'm riding my bike especially uphill the cogs would creaked even more that it's very annoying. It's definitely not from the bottom bracket because it seems to be stiff no play as I would expect from a brand new pressfit shimano bottom bracket. Please help. I'm a fan from the Philippines. Thanks.
The cassette should not have any play or movement. Could you be missing a spacer that goes on before the cassette? See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
This may be the source of the noise, especially if you can hear it when off the bike as you did above. Also check the chain and cogs for wear. Let me know how you make out and if any of the above solve your problem? Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed the hub that I'm using is good for 11 speed but since I only have shimano sora its nine-speed only. So I have a spacer before the cogs. I read that I need 1.85mm spacer to be exact, not sure about the spacer the mechanic have put on mine. I'll disassemble it and check the spacers width. Thanks for the help.
Hey tony, does it make a big difference if ive lost the spring for my rear wheel? If so what things could not having it on cause? thanks
I assume you are referring to the springs on the quick release skewer. The springs help you center the skewer in the dropout which makes the wheel easier to install. You don't need them for the QR skewer to work, but they're nice to have -- if they're damaged or lost, don't worry about it. Regards, Tony
I dont know if you would reply but I am an EXTREME noobie about bikes, i have an old Gausit EAGLE 7008, the tires are worn and stuff but i will replace them soon.
My problem is that when i spin my wheels i can visibly see the cassette going in a wave motion and there was also a wierd clanking noise. i checked the wheel but it was tight on so it could be my hub or a bracket
First be sure the wheel is true. An out of true wheel can give the illusion that the cassette or freewheel wobbles. See:
th-cam.com/video/UMUjznaTn7M/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a freehub with a cassette or a freewheel? See:
th-cam.com/video/3UuWAtEs3WI/w-d-xo.html
If you have a freewheel, some models appear to wobble (a wave motion as you call it) as they turn even though they are tight. Should not affect shifting.
If you are dealing with a cassette, the cassette should not wobble as in video. It is possible you are missing spacers that are installed before the cassette is added. See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
Finally, if you are dealing with a cassette (not freewheel), make sure the cassette lockring is tight. See:
th-cam.com/video/qVzWQuHPz50/w-d-xo.html
Check all the above. You didn't mention whether the bike shifts from cog to cog easily and correctly?
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed oh thanks!
In gonna diagnose the problem today but it can shift from cogs, im still adjusting the cables and limiter screws so it is perfect!
Thank you, it helped me a lot!
You're Welcome. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
So I’ve noticed some Cassette wobble and attempted to tighten the Lockring. It seems pretty tight, but I also noticed it was slightly stripped and jumped when I tried to tighten it further. How would you try to further diagnose this?
Sounds like you're missing a spacer that goes on before you install the cassette. See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
Regards, Tony
I just upgraded my mtb from an 8 speed to an 11 speed and there's a slight wobble. The factory may have forgot a washer for the new cassette. Ordered a few and hopefully this will be solved.
My understanding is that a MTB 11 speed cassette should fit on an 8 speed MTB hub. However, a number of 8 speed MTB systems I've run across have generic (road) hubs in which case you will need a spacer. If this is the case, the following article may help you determine the spacer need:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Great video Tony😊👍
Thank you. We'll try to bring you more interesting and concise video as we go along. Regards, Tony
Did the back wheel suddenly lock up and bike come to a halt - If so, this could have been a disaster if the cyclist was going fast or on the downhill.
He was very lucky in that we were going slow on a flat back road. Otherwise, as you said, this could have been a disaster.
Do you need a special tool to properly tighten the cassette?
You will need a lockring removal tool (the type depends on the make of your cassette) and either a lockring removal tool or just an adjustable wrench. See:
th-cam.com/video/RyX00hPyB34/w-d-xo.html
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Glad I saw this
My casset had a little wabble so I'll have to fix that before it's an issue
Let me know how you do. Regards, Tony
I discovered that my cassette sprockets were moving relative to each other last week and ordered the tool to tighten the cassette with in time for a sportive on Saturday. After the ride, I find that the sprockets moved again. I'm worried that there's permanent damage to the spline so I'll remove it and see. But how do I know if there's a missing spacer or not? It's 11spd GRX 1X.
General rule is 11-speed Shimano road cassettes go on road/gravel hubs with no spacer. **The exception to this rule is the CS-HG800 cassette which is an 11-34 tooth 11-speed that is backwards compatible with 10-speed hubs because it is basically a 10 speed cassette with the 11th cog offset off the back! It works fine on a 11-speed hub when you add a spacer.**
Also see:
And see Shimano 11 Speed Cassette Problems:
th-cam.com/video/rHW94pDdOLI/w-d-xo.html
and
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
If all else fails, take it to your LBS. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for the reply! I'll let you know how I get on.
i bought my bike on september the 23rd last year a trek marlin 5 2021 and i have done 3142.3miles yep over 3 thousend miles and for the last 250miles my cassette has been making a chucka chucka chuckq sound while riding not while am peddling but when i am i think its coasting i aint got a clue but its starting 2 affect other parts can sum1 help me please or and it skips a tooth or so many i nearly goover the bars my back and front wheel are lose as hell also its just a bloody mess like my life lol
A clucking sound while coasting but not pedaling suggests a freehub or freewheel problem requiring repair. For more on freehubs, see:
th-cam.com/video/TMWmnv6o9Zc/w-d-xo.html
A skipping chain could be related to this but could also be related to a worn derailleur cable, worn chain or worn cassette. Sounds like your bike needs some major work from your local bike store or a knowledgeable mechanic.
Good luck and let me know how you make out. Tony
Washer or Spacer in Hubs are just 1 right?
See:
www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Bike-Freehub-Cassette-Compatibility-Manual.html
Good job Tony. Worth noting
Thanks and safe cycling, Tony
My 7 speed cassette is from factory. cs-hg30 11-t. it wobbles a little not like that. I've tried to tighten the nut but it does nothing. do I need a new cassette? it's off of a 1999 jamis cross country 21 speed. a few thousand miles since then. I don't have that socket with the spline to remove it. I can use a screw drive or chisel to tap it lose. Thanks.
Can you move the cassette (make it wobble) with your hand? If not, the wheel may be slightly out of true. If you can move it with your hand, back and forth, I would wonder it the hub is truly a seven speed hub or if the bushings of the pulley wheels are worn and need replacing. How does it shift? If it shifts well and the wobble (using your hands) is very minimal, probably wouldn't do anything. Mixing and matching vintage cassettes and hubs can be tricky. How were you able to install and tighten the cassette lockring without a socket spline? See:
th-cam.com/video/RyX00hPyB34/w-d-xo.html
hi what is the common size of the spacer hub ? i have 10 spd casette and still wobbling even the lock ring is tighten
The spacers needed depend on both the hub as well as the cassette. If you have an 11 speed hub and place a 10 speed cassette on the hub, you'll need a spacer.
For a complete run down on compatibility and spacers see:
www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Bike-Freehub-Cassette-Compatibility-Manual.html
If your hub is a 10 speed and the 10 speed cassette still wobbles (that is, you can move it a few mm from side to side) you could be missing a spacer between the cogs.
Regards, Tony
Another interesting video. Thanks.
Glad you found it useful. See our other video on cassette wear:
th-cam.com/video/g5uqTNmikro/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
which is the watch your are wearing its big and nice.. is it a casio?
It's a Timex Iron Man with 5 alarms, stop watch and much more. Available on Amazon.
I bought a new bike it has a 13 speed cog but it wobbles can you tell me a fix?
I have not dealt with 13 speed cassette (not yet at least). Is the hub made for 13 speed cog or is it an 11 or 12 speed hub. I'd check with the manufacturer or your local bike shop as to whether you need a spacer on the hub. Let me know how you do. Regards, Tony
I tightened my cassette 2 weeks ago and now its is wobbling again should i be worried ?
Are you missing a spacer that goes on before the cassette or have the wrong spacer in place? See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
and
www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Bike-Freehub-Cassette-Compatibility-Manual.html
Other possibilities include stripped threads on the cassette lockring or not properly torqueing the cassette. See:
th-cam.com/video/qVzWQuHPz50/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
'Unior' makes a thin Cassette Lockring Tool (TH-cam: [Channel Unior Bike Tools] : "2 in 1 Pocket Spoke and Cassette Lockring Tool 1669/4") that fits into the Lockring and has a protuding portion of the Tool that wedges into the Frame's dropout so the Dropout acts as the "Wrench" and the Bike's Chain acts as the "Chain Whip" that holds the Cassette and keeps it from Spinning. The Tool's designed to do roadside broken spoke replacement for Touring Bikes. It also has a Spoke Wrench inplemented into it. A Very Cool Light & Compact Tool to keep in your Saddle Tool Kit!
Yes, nice little inexpensive tool although I was able to fix the lockring with my small multi-tool until I got home to tighten the cassette lockring to torque specs. If you check the cassette and lockring at each yearly maintenance and tighten properly, you should be fine until next maintenance (even if you don't carry this tool). From the video below, it appears the lockring is on tight enough to get you home but I don't know if it is close to manufactures specifications:
th-cam.com/video/jcuUjEzsuT8/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=UniorBikeTools
When I get home, I'd would still make sure the lockring is sufficiently tight. See:
th-cam.com/video/qVzWQuHPz50/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Thanks again for the info on this nice little tool. For touring, it's a great addition. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
My entire cassette is jumping at a point.. from what i feel it's the cassette and it fucked up my cassette hub... now i got a new wheel with new hub... same Sram 1050 cassette and same sh*it... it is nice and beautiful on the stand but outside every 2nd row it clicks... the cassette seems bigger than it was... really weird... i have no other option than a new cassette...
Obviously, this is only happening when the drivetrain is under pressure out on the road. Many questions: Can you move the cassette side to side with your hands suggesting that you're missing a spacer that goes on before the cassette is fitted to the hub? Did you check the cassette for wear (see th-cam.com/video/g5uqTNmikro/w-d-xo.html )? Is the cassette compatible with the chain (I prefer cassette and chain made for the same speed (10, 11, 12 speed) by the same manufacturer)? Is the chain worn (see th-cam.com/video/FzyRCcjRuu0/w-d-xo.html )? Does the rear derailleur cable need replacing or adjusting (see th-cam.com/video/WNgZhwxdm2Y/w-d-xo.html ? Is the rear derailleur hanger bent (see th-cam.com/video/qHK6jQizIdc/w-d-xo.html )? All these can cause the chain to click, jump between cogs, make noise or cause problems shifting. Finally, are you sure the click is coming from the cassette and not pedal, bottom bracket or other places. Carefully listen because it's easy to get fooled. I would have your local bicycle shop look into the above before you run out and get a new cassette (which may or may not solve your problem). These clicking problems can be tough to solve and you need great patience. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
Bought a used bike for 25 bucks. Seems the first washer is completely missing and the whole cassette moves back and forth in the hub.
Not sure what you mean by "first washer." Is this a spacer between cogs, a spacer that goes on before the cassette, or one of the cogs? If any one of these are missing, yes, you would get movement in the cassette which would effect shifting. You might be able to get a used cassette off Ebay or from your local bike shop (make sure it is the correct speed, 6,7,8 or 9 speed, and will fit on your bike).
I got same issue on wobble on the rear cassette and also a squeaking noise when I do pedaling any recommendations to fix it? Does my hub crooked?
First remove the rear wheel and see if you can move the cassette back and forth a few millimeters. If you can and the cassette lockring is tight, then you may be missing a spacer that is attached before you put on the cassette. See:
www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
If the cassette is tight and does not move, place the wheel back on the bike and make sure it's installed correctly. Spin the wheel and check that the wheel is centered between the brake pads. A wheel that is out of true will appear as though the cassette wobbles. See:
th-cam.com/video/UMUjznaTn7M/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
As to the squeaking noise when pedaling, it might come from the cassette as in the above. But consider:
1. A worn or poorly lubricated chain
2. A worn or broken pulley wheel on the rear derailleur
3. Worn pedal shoe cleat or pedal surface
4. Pedal spindle needs greasing. See:
th-cam.com/video/xn0bokygJ9c/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
5. Worn bearings in the pedal itself
These are the places to start. Let me know how you make out.
I check everything above the noise is gone when I replace my rear carbon wheels.
@@HIROckstar Thanks for the feed back. It will help our viewers. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
mahn thank goodness i googled this otherwise i wouldve had to hassle the guy at the bike shop for such a simple problem
How did you fix the problem?
@@tony10speed turns out i had a 7 speed on a 8 speed hub so i just needed the spacer which i got off a friends old bike but while i was at it i did a complete overhaul so it was a win win, i spent pretty much all day just cruising smoothly
@@romanengelbrecht6717 Good job in figuring out the problem and fixing it. Thanks for the feedback. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Excellent video, but me thinks your rear tire is on the wrong way.
You are correct. But since there is so little tread on road bike tires such as the Continental Gatorskins, even if they have an arrows, it makes little if any difference. Not even Continental could give me a good reason for the arrow on the road bike tire when contacted. I've ridden these fairly slick road tires with arrows on the right ways and backwards and have yet to notice a difference, even in wet or poor riding conditions. The tread that's there is really minimal. So unless you're riding a tire with significant tread (and a few wider road bike tires do have more tread then the Continentals) or a mountain bike tire (which the front has tread to move water & mud away and the back has tread for braking), direction seems to make little difference for most fairly slick road bike tires. With all that said, to avoid such comments, I did switch the tire around after when a prior viewer contacted me. Thanks for noticing, Tony