I was watching from the beginning and I told my fiancee when I heard the ticking that it was the flyback. I remember it from working on solid state televisions with CRT's. The flyback, if it's bad, will make the ticking sound immediately upon power up. I'm glad you were able to get the game going, Pro Hunting USA is a great game.
Thanks Wil, we appreciate you watching! I could hear you screaming through the internet "CHECK THE FLYBACK IF ITS TICKING!!!" lol We'll see you on the next one, tell your fiancée we said hi!
I always read the HOT causes that ticking, as the monitor is trying to come up, then the overvoltage circuit sees there's a short, turns off the high voltage, then continues to try to bring the high voltage up repeatedly, but doesn't as long as the short is detected. That's what my 25" Polo was just doing. Got lucky, and the new HOT alone got it going again.
The pinball machines take a lot longer so when we work on them we end up with multiple videos, with the arcade games usually we fix them quicker = less videos. We've got some classic arcade projects coming up pretty soon though, and Friday we're going to be working on a Centipede, see you then!
To discharge the tube i used to disconnect the high voltage cable from the tube (the insulation of the connector is adequate to do this) and hold the metal pins to the frame. Worked every time.
I'm pretty sure that's how Joey usually does it! A lot of times if i'm pretty sure it hasn't been working in awhile I just pull it off and don't use the screwdriver, I was just trying to show how to do it for the video so people wouldn't freak out... What it comes down to is Joe usually works on them and if he gets one that's really screwed up he has me mess with it too, so most of the ones I ever touch anymore are dead, LOL
Actually, you don't need to ground the 2nd Anode lead itself, but the hole where the 2nd Anode lead goes. I mean, the CRT is what you would discharge. The flyback isn't what holds the voltage. It only produces it, and if the set is not on, it cannot produce any. However, the CRT itself acts like a giant capacitor. Now, just disconnecting that may do the trick since, as you disconnect it, the prongs will straddle the hole, shorting the 2nd anode connection inside the tube to the dag coating on the back of the tube.
Great work getting that Polo working! Most of my cabs have Polo 1s or 2s. I used to be terrified of discharging the anode cap, I’ve done it enough times now to know how to do it safely and thankfully I’ve never had a shock from one (I’d rather not get shocked, even if it probably won’t kill you 😅). I got a House of the Dead with a Polostar recently and I’m sure the flyback in that had that melted glue look to it like yours did (it was actually the wrong flyback model too). Once it was replaced the monitor was all good.
Polo 1 has a discharge circuit (wire) built in, no need to manually do that, also has auto degauss when you turn it on, and you can reverse the Yoke by plugging into the other green connector on the Chassis, handy for all those vertical games with no screen flip settings
@@leonhantz6383 Yeah I found that feature useful on my Time Crisis 1, at some point the tube must have been taken out and whoever put that back in did it backwards afterwards. Rather than lug the tube out I was able to just flip the image. 😂
Back then I had a Daewoo monitor hooked to my PC that ate flybacks for breakfast... Should have checked the caps before swapping so many flybacks and ultimately throwing it in the trash haha
I recently picked up another cab. Turned it on and heard a loud pop preceeded by a loud ticking. It's a pole monitor. Guess I'll be doing a cap kit and flyback to see if I can bring it back to life. Also noticed someone had cut the power supply cord and just electrical taped it back together lol. May have caused the issue!?
@@LyonsArcade I looked for blown caps but nothing noticeable and the flyback doesn't seem to be damaged like the one you showed in the video. Haven't decided if I want to fix the crt or just throw an lcd in it. It's an original mk2 cab with decent side art. I have 2, the other is all original. Maybe just throw an lcd and pandora box in this one and turn it into a mame cab. Idk. Thanks for your help buddy!
Congrats on your sub's ! I would keep that fly back if I was you as the core isn't physically connected inside, so the movement not to much of a problem, my moneys on the bulging electrolytic gone open, its great that it's working again ...cheers.
I had flybacks back in the day that the plastic case would crack, sometimes arc. Like on a car's spark plug coils, they'd have a whiteish mark where the current leaked.
Good job Joe. And good video🙂🙂😃I learn something from this I am also a hobbyist really nice to see in the videos supper amplifiers pc television whauw really well done man
Nice. Like the troubleshooting stuff like that. Never forget the first time I got hit by a TV Transformer. YOUCH! Couldn't feel my hand for a solid hour. LOL. That tempest game...oh yea! Loved that game.
My lethal enforcers cab has a polo in it also but it sets 180 from the one in this cab. Next time I pull it away from the wall to switch games (also has Area 51/max force) I may turn it around. It would be a heck of a lot easier to adjust that’s for sure. Lol
Fly-back may have gone bad with some of those caps leaking. They are nasty capacitors. They leak like crazy even when they are not very old. Your troubleshooting techniques are really good. A lot of so called professionals could learn some things from you. I've seen so many that go straight to the Power Supply rather than Fly-Back with that ticking without even testing things further.
I basically go straight to the HOT the fly and the caps around it, I got a little lucky on this one though! Thanks for watching Brendan, we appreciate it man as always.
5th grade. Story corner. Mr Guilhus reading "How to eat fried worms" I was next to the wall and happened to have a shinny new paper clip.....oh the flash! And next thing I remember is being guided down the hall by my collar bone to the office.
I have a Hantarex Polo that has a great picture but the screen will shake every once in a while. I am guessing I have a loose connection somewhere but what could it be?
When you replace these parts (caps, flyback) do you then have to adjust the B+? And if so, how do you know which value it's supposed to be at? Or even where the test point is?
Hey, I have a pachislo slot machine and the credit/win light won’t power on and it won’t accept tokens it spits them back out. Would you happen to know what the issue may be
What makes an arcade monitor NOT need an isolation transformer? it has to do with how the design of the circuit board grounds with the monitors chassis ground. Which component you tested on the Hantarex that tested Shorted but was considered good in circuit even tho it tested shorted in circuit? i didn't get the component name or reference number
these don't need isolation transformers because they're switching mode power supply models. they're not a hot chassis like a K7000 where you have to be concerned with the neutral and earth ground bridging and blowing out the bridge rectifier. the shorted part was the HOT, BU508AF on Polo, it will test shorted in circuit base to emitter because of the damper diode inside the package. I've only ever known to test those and the WG U5000/K7400/K7500 era HOTs out of circuit. red probe on base, black probe to collector and then red probe on base, black probe to emitter. if you have junction drops either way, it's good. if shorted one or both ways, it's bad. there's a lot of counterfeits out there, so I suggest only buying from reputable sources like APAR.
@@mecha2001 When an Arcade Monitor is HOT Chassis that means that the HOT White wire 120VAC is connected direct to the Chassis ground frame of the arcade monitor. I'm not sure why Arcade Monitors would use the Chassis frame as a HOT because if you put you right hand gripping the arcade chassis frame and your Left hand touching a zero volt ground you will have 120VAC across your body getting shocked shorting it out across your body. The Isolation transformer is preventing if the H.O.T transistor Horizontal output transistor gets shorted out that the High Voltage from the arcade monitor doesn't backfeed and short out all the circuit boards BEFORE the isolation transformer? Because if the Flyback shorts out or the H.O.T transistor shorts out and you don't have an isolation transformer it will damage all the arcade circuit boards. The Isolation transformer is preventing the arcade monitors high voltage from reaching the other circuit boards preventing them from getting damaged. I'm not sure why the H.O.T. transistor has a Damping Diode internally in the transistor package because the Damping Diode does what? Because most H.O.T transistor doesn't use the Damping Diode are most arcade monitors HOT transistor.
I repaired MANY arcade CRTs and one thing I noticed, I NEVER saw a wells Gardner pop a flyback (mounted on chassis frame), but Electrohome G07 CB0s popped flybacks like they were going out of style. You can reverse the Y or the X deflection but you can’t swap X and Y or the monitor will pop.
@@LyonsArcade yes, WG was very well designed for the time. The newer WG LCDs, not so good, but at least no high voltage anode. By the way, if you’re operating the Ekectrohome G07s, they have a dangerous flaw. In their “wisdom”, they put the fuse AFTER the bulk caps, making these monitors a shock hazzard when the fuse blows because the caps continue to charge. I used to solder a 10K 1/2W resistor across the main caps to safely bleed them off when the fuse pops.
I got a 25kv shock from a monitor once it didn't kill me but the screwdriver is was holding was launched by my involuntary spasm behind me embedding it 2 inches in the wall missing my boss's head by less than an inch and would have been a lethal shock. He stopped looking over my shoulder after that.
I heard a similar tale, though this was deliberate. A tech kept asking a woman to keep her toddler away from him as he worked. The child was screaming and had a loaded diaper. Well, he finally had enough and touched the diaper with one hand and the 2nd anode with his other hand... the mom watched the toddler after that.
I was watching from the beginning and I told my fiancee when I heard the ticking that it was the flyback. I remember it from working on solid state televisions with CRT's. The flyback, if it's bad, will make the ticking sound immediately upon power up. I'm glad you were able to get the game going, Pro Hunting USA is a great game.
Thanks Wil, we appreciate you watching! I could hear you screaming through the internet "CHECK THE FLYBACK IF ITS TICKING!!!" lol We'll see you on the next one, tell your fiancée we said hi!
I always read the HOT causes that ticking, as the monitor is trying to come up, then the overvoltage circuit sees there's a short, turns off the high voltage, then continues to try to bring the high voltage up repeatedly, but doesn't as long as the short is detected. That's what my 25" Polo was just doing. Got lucky, and the new HOT alone got it going again.
Thanks for the videos. Please keep them coming. We appreciate you going through the pain of creating them.
Creating them's not much of a pain, it's mainly the people complaining that I didn't do something right that's a pain!
Finally you are back into Arcade machine repairs. I know you dabble in both, but I personally prefer the arcade fixes.
The pinball machines take a lot longer so when we work on them we end up with multiple videos, with the arcade games usually we fix them quicker = less videos. We've got some classic arcade projects coming up pretty soon though, and Friday we're going to be working on a Centipede, see you then!
To discharge the tube i used to disconnect the high voltage cable from the tube (the insulation of the connector is adequate to do this) and hold the metal pins to the frame. Worked every time.
I'm pretty sure that's how Joey usually does it! A lot of times if i'm pretty sure it hasn't been working in awhile I just pull it off and don't use the screwdriver, I was just trying to show how to do it for the video so people wouldn't freak out...
What it comes down to is Joe usually works on them and if he gets one that's really screwed up he has me mess with it too, so most of the ones I ever touch anymore are dead, LOL
Actually, you don't need to ground the 2nd Anode lead itself, but the hole where the 2nd Anode lead goes. I mean, the CRT is what you would discharge. The flyback isn't what holds the voltage. It only produces it, and if the set is not on, it cannot produce any. However, the CRT itself acts like a giant capacitor.
Now, just disconnecting that may do the trick since, as you disconnect it, the prongs will straddle the hole, shorting the 2nd anode connection inside the tube to the dag coating on the back of the tube.
Just like to say well done Ron for getting to 30k subs, there is an evergrowing audience for your cool quality content, may it long continue.
Thank you Mr K, glad you enjoy them :)
Amen! :)
Lightning made polo go pop! Also if it was taken out by lightning it would be the first time a polo didn't just fry on its own. ^^
hahaha ain't that the truth!
Great work getting that Polo working! Most of my cabs have Polo 1s or 2s. I used to be terrified of discharging the anode cap, I’ve done it enough times now to know how to do it safely and thankfully I’ve never had a shock from one (I’d rather not get shocked, even if it probably won’t kill you 😅).
I got a House of the Dead with a Polostar recently and I’m sure the flyback in that had that melted glue look to it like yours did (it was actually the wrong flyback model too). Once it was replaced the monitor was all good.
Polo 1 has a discharge circuit (wire) built in, no need to manually do that, also has auto degauss when you turn it on, and you can reverse the Yoke by plugging into the other green connector on the Chassis, handy for all those vertical games with no screen flip settings
@@leonhantz6383 Yeah I found that feature useful on my Time Crisis 1, at some point the tube must have been taken out and whoever put that back in did it backwards afterwards. Rather than lug the tube out I was able to just flip the image. 😂
Hey buddy! You hit 30k!!!! Wohooo! Congratulations 🎉🎉🎉👏👏👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Gnomie! We're getting there... TO THE MOON!!!
Back then I had a Daewoo monitor hooked to my PC that ate flybacks for breakfast... Should have checked the caps before swapping so many flybacks and ultimately throwing it in the trash haha
It happens Fernando, we all live and learn :) Thanks for watching as always man!
Another great upload Ron. Thank you :)
Thanks for watching AK-Gyrator!
I recently picked up another cab. Turned it on and heard a loud pop preceeded by a loud ticking. It's a pole monitor. Guess I'll be doing a cap kit and flyback to see if I can bring it back to life.
Also noticed someone had cut the power supply cord and just electrical taped it back together lol. May have caused the issue!?
Loud pop look for a blown cap or a huge crack in the flyback
@@LyonsArcade I looked for blown caps but nothing noticeable and the flyback doesn't seem to be damaged like the one you showed in the video. Haven't decided if I want to fix the crt or just throw an lcd in it. It's an original mk2 cab with decent side art. I have 2, the other is all original. Maybe just throw an lcd and pandora box in this one and turn it into a mame cab. Idk. Thanks for your help buddy!
Thank you for sharing, nice video!
Thanks, we appreciate you watching!
Congrats on your sub's ! I would keep that fly back if I was you as the core isn't physically connected inside, so the movement not to much of a problem, my moneys on the bulging electrolytic gone open, its great that it's working again ...cheers.
Thank you for watching AndyMouse123!
Well, there was also the melted glue, so it is possible that it overheated and burned the enamel inside.
I had flybacks back in the day that the plastic case would crack, sometimes arc. Like on a car's spark plug coils, they'd have a whiteish mark where the current leaked.
Good job Joe. And good video🙂🙂😃I learn something from this I am also a hobbyist really nice to see in the videos supper amplifiers pc television whauw really well done man
Nice. Like the troubleshooting stuff like that. Never forget the first time I got hit by a TV Transformer. YOUCH! Couldn't feel my hand for a solid hour. LOL. That tempest game...oh yea! Loved that game.
Very cool to see a Polo repair vid...well done and thanks so much....Great Vid!
Your the man Ron, 👌👌👌👌👌👌
My lethal enforcers cab has a polo in it also but it sets 180 from the one in this cab. Next time I pull it away from the wall to switch games (also has Area 51/max force) I may turn it around. It would be a heck of a lot easier to adjust that’s for sure. Lol
Yeah if you turn it around, and then plug the yoke into the other connector it'll display properly and you can service it!
Yay. Deer Hunting :D. Love these games
They're pretty fun, people don't know what they're missin'!
Fly-back may have gone bad with some of those caps leaking. They are nasty capacitors. They leak like crazy even when they are not very old. Your troubleshooting techniques are really good. A lot of so called professionals could learn some things from you. I've seen so many that go straight to the Power Supply rather than Fly-Back with that ticking without even testing things further.
I basically go straight to the HOT the fly and the caps around it, I got a little lucky on this one though! Thanks for watching Brendan, we appreciate it man as always.
This channel is like water to a desert. (Now that John's Arcade quit again)
Thank you President Putin!
Hi, thanks for your nice video, very instructive. At a moment you talk about a capkit for your POLO monitor. Where did you find it pls?
Thanks a lot
We make our own with caps we order in bulk, but you can buy premade capacitor kits from www.ArcadePartsAndRepair.com !
@@LyonsArcade Thanks. I have a Polo monitor with same issue so I'm looking for it.
In the UK they call the HOT the LOPT ("line output"). Which isn't as fun to say.
Ian I give you permission to call it what we call it 'down south' LOL
@@LyonsArcade LOL! I'm not Brit myself, but a lot of my online friends are so we end up confusing each other a lot.
5th grade. Story corner. Mr Guilhus reading "How to eat fried worms" I was next to the wall and happened to have a shinny new paper clip.....oh the flash! And next thing I remember is being guided down the hall by my collar bone to the office.
I have a Hantarex Polo that has a great picture but the screen will shake every once in a while. I am guessing I have a loose connection somewhere but what could it be?
When you replace these parts (caps, flyback) do you then have to adjust the B+? And if so, how do you know which value it's supposed to be at? Or even where the test point is?
It's all in the schematics, it tells you all the parts how they connect what the voltages should be where to adjust where the test points are, etc.
Wow, another game I have.
It's a pretty cool game!
The flyback flew back.... but this time in the bin :D
I got a Run and Gun with a Hantrax polo.
i checked it played it all good, drive home about 3 hours bit bumpy,and it is ticking!
F,.,.....k!
It's probably got some bad solder joints on one of those resistors on the right side, but usually it wouldn't tick I don't think if it had that.
I had SMPS transistors where base is one of the outer pins instead of middle one (BU2520DX for example)._
Hey, I have a pachislo slot machine and the credit/win light won’t power on and it won’t accept tokens it spits them back out. Would you happen to know what the issue may be
Hmmm.... sounds like it may have some sort of error code going on, did you go into the service menu?
@@LyonsArcade no service manual, the whole one side doesn’t light up too, so if it’s throwing an error code I wouldn’t know
Good work (microfarad, lol)
Thanks Pez :)
What makes an arcade monitor NOT need an isolation transformer? it has to do with how the design of the circuit board grounds with the monitors chassis ground. Which component you tested on the Hantarex that tested Shorted but was considered good in circuit even tho it tested shorted in circuit? i didn't get the component name or reference number
these don't need isolation transformers because they're switching mode power supply models. they're not a hot chassis like a K7000 where you have to be concerned with the neutral and earth ground bridging and blowing out the bridge rectifier. the shorted part was the HOT, BU508AF on Polo, it will test shorted in circuit base to emitter because of the damper diode inside the package. I've only ever known to test those and the WG U5000/K7400/K7500 era HOTs out of circuit. red probe on base, black probe to collector and then red probe on base, black probe to emitter. if you have junction drops either way, it's good. if shorted one or both ways, it's bad. there's a lot of counterfeits out there, so I suggest only buying from reputable sources like APAR.
@@mecha2001 When an Arcade Monitor is HOT Chassis that means that the HOT White wire 120VAC is connected direct to the Chassis ground frame of the arcade monitor. I'm not sure why Arcade Monitors would use the Chassis frame as a HOT because if you put you right hand gripping the arcade chassis frame and your Left hand touching a zero volt ground you will have 120VAC across your body getting shocked shorting it out across your body. The Isolation transformer is preventing if the H.O.T transistor Horizontal output transistor gets shorted out that the High Voltage from the arcade monitor doesn't backfeed and short out all the circuit boards BEFORE the isolation transformer? Because if the Flyback shorts out or the H.O.T transistor shorts out and you don't have an isolation transformer it will damage all the arcade circuit boards. The Isolation transformer is preventing the arcade monitors high voltage from reaching the other circuit boards preventing them from getting damaged. I'm not sure why the H.O.T. transistor has a Damping Diode internally in the transistor package because the Damping Diode does what? Because most H.O.T transistor doesn't use the Damping Diode are most arcade monitors HOT transistor.
Awesome game
I repaired MANY arcade CRTs and one thing I noticed, I NEVER saw a wells Gardner pop a flyback (mounted on chassis frame), but Electrohome G07 CB0s popped flybacks like they were going out of style.
You can reverse the Y or the X deflection but you can’t swap X and Y or the monitor will pop.
The Wells ones hardly ever burnt up, except for the K7000 ones... the 4600 and 4900 ones though almost all of them are still working!
@@LyonsArcade yes, WG was very well designed for the time. The newer WG LCDs, not so good, but at least no high voltage anode. By the way, if you’re operating the Ekectrohome G07s, they have a dangerous flaw. In their “wisdom”, they put the fuse AFTER the bulk caps, making these monitors a shock hazzard when the fuse blows because the caps continue to charge. I used to solder a 10K 1/2W resistor across the main caps to safely bleed them off when the fuse pops.
I got a 25kv shock from a monitor once it didn't kill me but the screwdriver is was holding was launched by my involuntary spasm behind me embedding it 2 inches in the wall missing my boss's head by less than an inch and would have been a lethal shock. He stopped looking over my shoulder after that.
I heard a similar tale, though this was deliberate. A tech kept asking a woman to keep her toddler away from him as he worked. The child was screaming and had a loaded diaper. Well, he finally had enough and touched the diaper with one hand and the 2nd anode with his other hand... the mom watched the toddler after that.
Screwdriver with a wire on it .just like John used to use for his game repairs brutha
John knows what's up!
@@LyonsArcade hey guys...we are in the basement 😁
Minge lives matter 😉😂👍
Yes, Yes I agree!
Make minge great again 🤣
Great video again . Thanks ron