the power draw of the LED that mimicked a 60w incandescent bulb was only 5w so it caused extremely unstable oscillations to the supply, try using a 30-50w led floodlight(most led bulbs don't have an accurate power draw because of power factor and such)
there is a lot in this one and issues i had with over voltage B+ (maybe frying the tube) and that damn 150ohn resistor which I think u solved by recapping, interesting. So I replaced the 150ohm too and it burnt up again, so I presume that after replacing practically everything that the resistor is now stable.
You are relentless Mike. That was some amount of time you spent getting that up and running but you have learned a lot for the next one.
you should sign your name on each chassis you fix. Great repair.
Thanks Mike for doing these awesome yet funny videos. I love your sense of humor.
Smeggin awesome repair sir ! Holy Hell !
Well done. Very educational.
Holy basket case polo! 😮 badass video Mike!
Thanks for the great video Mike.
Thank you for the video sir.
the power draw of the LED that mimicked a 60w incandescent bulb was only 5w so it caused extremely unstable oscillations to the supply, try using a 30-50w led floodlight(most led bulbs don't have an accurate power draw because of power factor and such)
there is a lot in this one and issues i had with over voltage B+ (maybe frying the tube) and that damn 150ohn resistor which I think u solved by recapping, interesting. So I replaced the 150ohm too and it burnt up again, so I presume that after replacing practically everything that the resistor is now stable.
love this
nice video, what camera model are you using ?
What’s up with the long leg of the FB? Do you solder it in like the old one? Why is it so long?
It’s the ground. Yes.
Nice. Any clue what would cause no white even though I have RGB?
Measure R40 on the neck board.