0:00 Intro 1:19 Profoto vs Godox vs Speedlights 3:20 Test 1: Glow Test 7:38 Test 2: Power Output Test 8:50 Test 3: Background Shadow Test 9:40 Test 4: Real World Model Test 13:24 Conclusion 14:28 Intro Quiz Images Revealed 15:40 Fstoppers Photo Contest Gear Used in this video: Light Godox AD600 Pro II:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1836274-REG/godox_ad600proii_all_in_one_outdoor_flash.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110 Modifiers Profoto OCF 2' Octa beauty Dish:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1119644-REG/profoto_101211_ocf_octa_softbox_2.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110 Profoto 1' x 4' Strip Box: ➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1644499-REG/profoto_101232_ocf_softbox_1x4.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110 Profoto 3'x4' RFI Softbox:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1644499-REG/profoto_101232_ocf_softbox_1x4.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110 Impact 22" beauty dish:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/912757-REG/impact_impact_22_beauty_dish.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110 Newell Profoto to Bowen's speedring adapter: ➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1835698-REG/newell_nl3230_p2b1_profoto_bowens_mount_adapter.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110 Enter the next Fstoppers Photo Contest here: ➡️fstoppers.com/contests Fstoppers Photography Tutorials! ➡️fstoppers.com/store?fsa=305&fsc=12 Subscribe to the Fstoppers TH-cam Channel: ➡️th-cam.com/users/FStoppers Our Gear: 📷 and 🎥Workflow Recommendations: 🥰Our Favorite Gear ➡️bhpho.to/3Q5pm01 💻Software📀 Adobe Creative Cloud ➡️ bit.ly/3hjVXdE Boris FX Optics: ➡️bit.ly/3N83bD6 Luminar Neo ➡️ skylum.evyy.net/M6RAM Capture One ➡️ captureone.38d4qb.net/NO29q 🛒🏪🛍 Support Fstoppers by shopping at: B&H Photo and Video ➡️ bit.ly/3K7CrlX Amazon ➡️ amzn.to/3hkTEXS 📸Follow Fstoppers on Instagram: ➡️ instagram.com/officialfst... Follow Lee and Patrick's Puerto Rico Instagram: ➡️ instagram.com/fstopperspr/ In this video we test different light modifiers mounted to an exposed flash tube against those with a recessed flash tube. The same light, the new Godox AD600 Pro II, was used in all of these shots and we used a variety of rectagular and narrow strip boxes, a collapsible beauty dish, and a hard beauty dish. Each light modifier was run through a variety of tests including a glow test to see how even the light filled the modifier, a background test to see how the fall off varied as it spilled onto the background, a power test to see how much power was lost by either mounting option, and finally a real world model test to see if we can notice any specific lighting changes on human skin, eyes, lips, and other facial features.
There would probably be a major difference on true parabolic reflectors (because of the focus point) and barebulb on a small studio (because of bounced light)
Hi Patrick, if the recessed option uses more power, then there is a huge difference. Recessed bulb: Higher power for the same f-stop equals less battery duration, fewer shots, slower refresh rate, longer flash duration which hinders freezing subjects and more heat which lowers bulb and internal components longevity. Exposed bulb: Lower power means more battery duration, more shots, faster refresh rate and shorter flash durations which has better freezing power, also the exposed bulb has 100 times more airflow for cooling the bulb which in turn avoids overheating the lights internal components giving it a much higher longevity. The enclosure traps heat like an oven. 🙂 Excellent video, better than Lee's videos LOL just kidding hahaha I also love Lee's videos. 😂🤣😂 Most likely factory recessed flashes like Profoto have internal heat shields for this same reason 🙂
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
in my experience, for most modifiers, this is a non-sequitur. I have way more other things to worry about. That being said, in general, I do generally prefer bare exposed bulb because it usually gives more light output, and for the type of work I do, I need all I can get.
How comments like this one are not dominating the comment section is a mystery to me. 1.5 to 2.5 stop delta in power is HUGE. Death nail to recessed IMO. Who would buy an AD1200 over an AD300 because they really liked recessed mounting.
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
IMO prophoto flash heads are the best. Older ones . They allow you to focus the light by sliding the reflector or modifiers in or out. Better than any flash head I’ve ever seen. I worked with many brand sfor 40 years.
In most cases it is not going to matter much - especially solo portraits. But recently when lighting some large family portraits - 18 - 23 people - I needed to get the light as evenly across 5-6 people wide and 4 rows of people. I used a 4ft by 6 ft softbox from broncolor feathered across everyone plus a large scrim for fill. With a standard exposed tube head I was getting nearly 2-stops of fall off on the outer edge folks. When I switched to a specialized 3200ws focusing head with bulb defocused and deeper in the softbox and a specialized sunlite flashtube that protrudes further out and deeper I got a 1 stop improvement on those folks on the outer edges which is much more manageable. I would imagine even bigger fall-off issues with recessed tube in a large softbox. Edge illumination matters a lot when feathering across large groups. This is like lots of things in photography where it doesn't matter until it does. Just like high FPS, megapixels, global shutter, short flash durations etc- so many of this things don't matter except certain use cases. If you shoot that use case a lot it matters - if not you couldn't care less about a feature.
Its like chefs debating 1tbs vs 1.25tbs of salt, most people couldn't tell the difference or care. At the end of the day either the client likes your style or doesn't, and if they do they will defend it even if majority of the community is not in agreement with your style or technicalities. This also ties in with clout, in my region if your photography carries more clout, you can't do no wrong even if you did the entire session @1/15sec in shaky action cam mode with nothing in focus.
Great video. I'm not a fan of the recessed flashtube design for strobes, but I am fully aware that it's not going to make a big difference for a few reasons, but mainly because most photographers will be feathering their lights. However, what I think makes a bigger difference than recessed VS non-recessed is modifiers with a deflector plate in front of the flash tube. We've seen that different light pattern in your video with a beauty dish, but that can be applied to any softbox. What the deflector plate does is that it totally or partially blocks the light that would be going directly to the center of the softbox and "forces" the light to be more powerful around it. It even creates a small darker spot in the center of the softbox. I prefer to have a dark spot in the center VS having a hot spot there. Any flash with a softbox will work better with a deflector plate, but non-recessed flash tubes will spread the light better with it. That's one of the reasons I stayed with Elinchrom for a long time, I really love the fact that most of their strobes can use a deflector plate with any modifier, as it's a separate accessory that plugs in the umbrella hole with is very close to the flash tube.
@@FStoppers Elinchrome has a product called 'deflector kit' that is basically a changable deflector disk on a stick that fits into the umbrella holder of the strobe. It can be used with almost any softbox or reflector (at least Elinchrome ones).
@@FStoppersNormally, they are available for umbrella-style softboxes. Check the Angler Boombox line at B&H. They all come with the deflector. As for Elinchrom, as Raken said above, the deflector kit can be used with almost all modfiers. I never use a softbox without it. Elinchrom also has 4 different deflectors : Silver, gold, transparent and white. I always use the silver one.
I would like to see this test again but comparing the exposed tube of the Godox against the Pro Foto recessed tube. Maybe there is something about how Pro Foto mounts the tube differently. That for this comparison Patrick.
I did the glow test with a deep white umbrella. Here the recessed bulb adapter was useful, since the bouncing happens further from the source, to avoid spilling and get a the diffusion intended from the shape of the umbrella
There are certain modifiers where and exposed is better. A para modifier is very well known and popular one where you can even see how the light changes when using the zoom function with the center pole. And if I had to mention another, the Profoto Hardbox modifier makes the flashtube very small in order to give a much harder light due to the orientation. Maybe this could be countered with a much smaller, yet powerful recessed flash tube that can be made.
I need to test a parabolic. The problem with looking at how it fills the modifier is just like with the beauty dish examples, just because the lighting looks different on the modifier, it doesn’t mean the resulting images taken in front of the modifier will look different. -P
An exposed flashtube offers another capability. Barebulb flash can be utilized in a studio setting by facing the light almost vertically without any modifier. Visualize the light emanating sideways from the flashtube. It can create an effect reminiscent of the sun, as it makes the light source very small, while also bouncing omni-directionally. This yields SHARP shadows, yet they will be mysteriously filled. Just like the sun does. Being in a white studio certainly amplifies the effect. Give this party trick a try!
I agree a bare bulb exposed flash tube can do some unique things in the studio by firing in all directions. But, I would not say that it is emulating the sun. The sun is so far away that it acts like a very narrow beam of light that is hitting the earth at about 1 degree. A flash firing in all directions isn’t more similar to the sun, it’s actually less similar. -P
@@FStoppersthat’s why Profoto makes the Hard Box modifier. You should do a feature on it. It does require a Profoto light head with a bare bulb from one of their studio packs. You could probably mount your Godox light to the hard box though. The way the hard box works is it’s a dark black box with one side open and a hole in the bottom and you stick the bare bulb into the box vertically so that the light shoots out from the side like the other guy was talking about, except for because it’s only coming out of one opening in the black box It directs it straightforward without bouncing it around the studio and opening the shadows. Horses for courses.
@@FStoppers yes I agree Patrick, since light travels in a straight line, the sun's rays are more focused and narrow. In the studio, the barebulb creates a very hard shadow (like the sun) yet it's not a black shadow. A snoot or fresnel light is also small and focused, but provides a completely different look.
@@FStoppers and yet the sun DOES act more like the exposed bulb in studio setting because of how much bounced light is always filling in shadows from all directions. The Sun DOES have a very direct, narrow beam. But for most of the middle of the day, the sun beam is bouncing off of every building, street, sidewalk, and illuminates back into the atmosphere, creating a huge soft fill effect. The Sun is one source, yes, by it's by product is a lot of fill.
Didn’t use any hard reflectors. Like the Magnum. Also the way the light spreads and interacts with the BG/environment is SUPER important to the overall image.
Also, I think you forgot, the primary bulb cover that comes with the Godox 600 Pro/II doubles as a straight reflector. You didn't have to invent your own with tape, just take the end cap off and use the one that came with the flash. (edit: never mind, the straight tube would not fit in your other Bowens modifiers. My bad. Carry on. Appreciate the videos.)
I got right and I would say you missed, unfortunately, a great test, that would be the 7' parabolic umbrellas. The modifier's design should give an interesting comparison because of how light behaves in it.
@@FStoppers I am. I actually use it quite a bit. Huge light source, creating superbly flattering light and keeps a white background super clean. Also, since the falloff is so massive, you can easily avoid glare in glasses by raising. It's also fantastic for big group. Frankly, I never thought I'd use it... But it's a banger! I'd imagine a reflector would be helpful for parabolic umbrellas in general.
@@FStoppers I use as much as possible, as it is as easy to mount as a few seconds (if you have space). The light efficiency and different square law pattern is welcome too. I use sometimes with a COB LED, but in this case they act like recessed bulbs, thus not giving the full exquisite light quality one can expect under these circumstances. This is why this modifier is on top of my mind. Thanks for the video, this was a very cool test and work you've done here.
Why didn’t you revisit the observed power delta more in your closing comments? Your 1.5-2.5 stop delta observations are huge! Who would go with a recessed setup after that?
I want to test it in one other way. We’ve tested all the max power outputs of a bunch of mono lights in a recent video. It would be interesting to see say a Profoto B10x and the Godox AD 600 pro II actually show the same loss of power when mounted to a beauty dish as I observed in this test using my DIY recessed attachment. If it’s the same 1:1 strobe to strobe then yes it’s a massive advantage. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
Seems like the only real difference is the extra power. The other thing to consider if you have to replace a flash tube it’s real easy on an exposed tube.
And they are more durable in my opinion. I feel so uneasy removing large softboxes from these flashes with exposed tubes. I keep thinking I’m going to break them. That said, if they do break, the repairs are much much easier because you can just buy a new one and replace it yourself. -P
The difference to me looks like a change in modifier size. Beauty dish 28" with bare bulb vs 22" with recessed. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. Especially on the background like you mentioned. I own lights that have different heads allowing bare bulb or recessed. The difference is noticeable like in your test. Bare bulb fills the modifier better creating a more even light. I use recessed when using gels as it is easier.
You say that but I can’t tell the difference on the face at all. If the background wasn’t 1’ away and instead was 5’ away, the background lighting would be even less significant. The two bulbs don’t have any major changes in “filling out” the softboxes and the effect on the beauty dish is visible when photographing the dish itself but not so much when looking at your subject. -P
@@FStoppers As you stated, the background lighting is where it shows most. When I use a dedicated light and modifier to evenly illuminate a background, bare bulb is the choice. On a face, I see a difference, but it is subtle. Since my equipment allows the choice, I use bare bulb most of the time and recessed for gel use and event shooting convenience.
You should have used prophoto for for this test. They make both types of lights .no need to modify with foil also are the glow test flash or model light.?
The problem is I would have had to use two different lights which adds another variable. Different white balances, different powers, different tubes etc. -P
I used an sd100 in a beauty dish and it threw a lot of rings of Saturn pattern on the wall until I put the dome attachment on. Those rings were very dramatic
Yeah I placed it so the edge of the tube was at the edge of the dish. You can def push the recessed tubes closer to the diffusion plate but that can’t be good for the modifier or efficiency. -P
You're right, it's barely noticeable on her face. I guessed right, but I was looking at the clothing, not the face. It's natural for me since I shoot for clothing companies. I use 1x6 strip boxes for background lighting in tight spaces (full length: hat to shoes), it's noticeable there.
That’s wild. I’m looking at her black clothing and it looks identical to me. I’ve even stacked them in photoshop and clicked them on and off. The difference is very very subtle. -P
Chris with Profoto did this same kind of test a couple years back and the results were pretty much the same when it comes to real-world use with modifiers. I think this is why Profoto is not interested in going back to exposed bulb models. It doesn't make a big difference.
Hi Patrick, it looks like you used an adapter extension where both sides were Bowens mounts. Can you tell me where you got it? I’ve been trying to find one.
@@JonSupko the link is in the description I believe. It’s Bowens mount with a Profoto mount on the other side so I can use my Profoto modifiers in bowens. -P
curious to see a Light color comparison between Godox and Profoto lights?...saw a photographer on Instagram that she went for Godox lights over Profoto because of the color difference, she does beauty...very curious to see this comparison...perhaps an idea for the next video
I have never heard of a photographer choosing a less expensive light over a more expensive light for color accuracy. That said, our tests in a few videos before this one showed that the color differences between 4-8 different flashes wasn’t very significant either. -P
@@FStoppers oh wow, I better watch those videos....now for those one light editorial shoots, using Godox barebulb...where typical photographers use the recessed profoto light (no umbrella, just bouncing against white wall)...how you suggest I go about using the Godox, having the light barebulb, the light would spread everywhere, would you suggest i use the Funnel metal reflectors, the small looking ice cream cup reflectors or just go barebuld?
The only possible error in your testing that I could see is that recessed flash tubes are designed to push the light out the front and you used a flash tube designed to push light out to the sides and modified it. So I believe the power issue may not actually be there. Nonetheless I thank you very much for this very informative test.
But is the design of actual recessed bulbs the same as the bulb you tested? I'd think a recessed bulb would be designed to throw more light in a forward direction rather than to splay the light like exposed bulbs generate. So would this test wind up with the same results if a strobe with a genuine recessed bulb was tested?
I think for the power test, a recessed tube with engineered back dish would probably have better results, but I don’t think it would matter for filling out a softbox or beauty dish. -P
@@FStoppers the first one I saw was just the close up of the flash bulb. Now it’s the wide angle with the red circle with the close up. Definitely better for context. Amazing video, but I figured you’d like to know I noticed the update.
This is an interesting idea that I’ve had for a video concerning the myth about bounce cards on speed lights; basically the most powerful fill light will be from the closest service to your subject. So if you did your method in a perfect room where the ceiling, floor and 3 sides of the room were all basically the same distance from your light, then you’d get perfectly illuminated fill. But say your ceiling is 20’ tall and your wall behind you that your flash is firing into is also 20’ away, but the wall to your right is 6 feet away, that 6’ wall is going to be MUCH brighter and essentially it will become a side fill with the ceiling basically doing very little. This is why I often add a reflector dish to my fill lights so I can point it directly where I want it and not have it spill all over the studio and have unpredictable /uneven effects. -P
@@FStoppers yeah exactly. Good explanation. I use this in a studio setting with controlled surfaces/wall distances that are all neutral. Basically simulating global illumination
Light quality aside, I feel like the power output difference is totally worth going with an exposed tube flash. 1-3 stops of light less depending on the modifier?! Just me or is that not a huge difference?
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
the difference depends on the modifier you use. BUT a client is not going to notice at all. only my daughter that took lighting can tell the difference LOL Same with me. AND it boils down to the style I want to shoot. But only two soft boxes make a difference. the big one is in an umbrella. AND that isn't that big of a difference.
Your predicament stems from a deep attachment to Profoto, and consequently, your perspective is skewed to favor its benefits. However, the principles of physics and practical experiences from the realms of cinema and photography consistently affirm that natural, exposed light trumps all. If you wish, you could even consult artificial intelligence on this matter, and you'll find it echoing the same sentiment: exposed light is superior. This may be a bitter pill to swallow for a Profoto enthusiast, but it's an unalterable truth.
If this is true, then why do my tests not show this? I don’t think I’m biased towards Profoto because I had this same question back when I used Nikon speed lights and my friends had Alien Bees with a flash tube that stuck out. Before Profoto released their D1 heads and now their B10s, their most popular strobe heads were exposed bulbs that plugged into power packs. So it’s not a Profoto vs everyone else. Godox and Profoto both have exposed tubes and recessed tubes. -P
1 and 2/3 stop difference; for me the video ends there, and frankly it's the only thing that matters. If you have a modifier in front of it it's clear that light quality is indistinguishable; the only difference can be with bare bulbs, or semi-bare, like we saw with the rigid dish turned sideways. But again, for me the discussion between recessed vs exposed has never been about light quality, but exclusively about raw power differences with a common modifier. And it's clear to me that recessed bulbs are definitely a no go, and I've always been astonished by people buying Profoto stuff.
I didn’t end my video with that conclusion because I feel like I need to do another test with a Profoto and Godox side by side and confirm. There is a chance the recessed bulb of a Profoto light or even any brand of speed light has the benefit of the reflector dish behind the light that makes it more efficient. I don’t believe this would change the lighting pattern within the modifiers though but it could help make them more efficient. Barebulb is another interesting idea because I could see having a reflector dish pushing all the light forward would give the same light quality but would be more efficient. Of course you can always add a dish to an exposed tube but you gotta own and carry that dish around. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
Only 1 question, Why Profoto use an Exposed Bulb at ProHead and Recessed flash tube for entry level (D2-D3-B10 etc...)??? the exposed Flash Tube are most eficiently.
I don’t know why they choose two different methods. Every flash brand does this too with their speed lights. I’d imagine it’s because a recessed flash tube is more protected and generally less likely to break. The pro lights are also more likely to be used in the studio where things are typically safer and the cheaper flashes are made to take out on location. If power output wasn’t a sacrifice, and my tests seem to suggest it is, I don’t know why you would go with an exposed flash tube since the light quality in most light modifiers doesn’t seem to change too much. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X or a D2 500Ws from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
You cannot compare a recessed tube like Profoto with a soft frosted output plate and a speedlight that has the recessed tube in an optical zoom system more like a mini fresnel
Your primary mistake is not defining what "quality of light" means. Quality of light refers to how hard or soft the light is. Recessing the tube produces a more directional, smaller light, hard light; while having an exposed tube producer a larger softer light. Think spotlight vs floodlight, it's the same principle. You forgot to do the one test that actually matters, bare bulb, no modifiers. Every other test with modifiers would be a downstream result of that test. Because the modifiers are also affecting and changing the *quality of light.* Different modifiers can have different effects with different lights, you just have to use the right tool for what you want.
There is no discernible difference in the quality of light, shadows and highlights, when most any light modifier is used with both a recessed and exposed flash tube. That is exactly what I meant. -P
It's minimal, but theres one that will show .... Umbrellas with speedlites, dome difusers, grids, and dome difusers, and no umbrella🤓 ...the other brutal difference will be how long you can shoot with the same battery pack, and overtime the wear and tear of the battery because of the extra powerdraw just because you need more light. And with grids on the softbox.... I havent tested but leads me to extrapolate you'll need even more power🤔
The exposed bulb gives you more power, and fills out the entirety of most modifiers better, producing a softer light. Even if subtle, in your tests, there is generally a more even distribution of light across the face exposed bulb. But yes, 99.99% of non photographers would never notice or care. I get you're trying to test one variable, but I do wish you had put the power numbers on screen. Either way, I'd rather not lose light. Exposed bulbs are *meant* to be used with modifiers, recessed are meant to be used with and without them.
99% wouldn’t notice because it’s not that big of a difference at all in all of these tests. The only one with any real difference was the beauty dish feathered sideways. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
I haven’t watched the whole post yet but I just have to ask if you and your audience (particularly the anti recessed head camp) are aware that the Profoto recessed heads do have built in reflex tires in the head designed to spread the light out sideways to fill the modifiers. They actually do spread the light out about 180° but with about 3 stop (I think) gradual fade beyond the 70° point. And when you shoot the recessed heads at a wall from a normal portrait distance you’ll notice the have a very even light pattern and exposure within the 70° spread then they fall off gradually in a nice patten. They give a nice unmodified hard light. Also a lot of unfamiliar users will not align the modifiers correctly and push them out into the modifiers too far restricting the spread of light. Or not too far back which also narrows the spread. I tend to line it up flush with the speed ring. I haven’t finished watching the video but from your initial presentation it looks like you are going to have an issue with the spread of the light because there’s no built-in reflector like on the Profoto lights so it’s not gonna spread out the same and not gonna give you an accurate comparison. Going to watch now and see where your conclusions are and if you address that.
No one paid me for this. I asked BH Photo to send me the flash so I could do this test. I was genuinely interested and I hope the results of my tests presented in this video show that I’m not going against their findings. The only advantage I can potentially see is the exposed flash tube allow lower power settings for similar exposures. -P
@@FStoppers I mean phoney in the sens of "not genuine" (for instance it is bound to be pseudo if mixing peremtory and humble attitude ..is all but scientific, friendly, constructive, thorough, ..) but a pretext or a cover up or an other distraction stunt (in this case to make YT trafic at any cost (to the detriment of genuity instead of sharing exchange) with a half backed king attitude etc. "Phoney" does certainly not stand equivalent to 'corruption' or to be biased. Will you deflect now again ? With no doubt I'll enjoy the bait and double down again.
0:00 Intro
1:19 Profoto vs Godox vs Speedlights
3:20 Test 1: Glow Test
7:38 Test 2: Power Output Test
8:50 Test 3: Background Shadow Test
9:40 Test 4: Real World Model Test
13:24 Conclusion
14:28 Intro Quiz Images Revealed
15:40 Fstoppers Photo Contest
Gear Used in this video:
Light
Godox AD600 Pro II:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1836274-REG/godox_ad600proii_all_in_one_outdoor_flash.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110
Modifiers
Profoto OCF 2' Octa beauty Dish:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1119644-REG/profoto_101211_ocf_octa_softbox_2.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110
Profoto 1' x 4' Strip Box: ➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1644499-REG/profoto_101232_ocf_softbox_1x4.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110
Profoto 3'x4' RFI Softbox:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1644499-REG/profoto_101232_ocf_softbox_1x4.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110
Impact 22" beauty dish:➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/912757-REG/impact_impact_22_beauty_dish.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110
Newell Profoto to Bowen's speedring adapter: ➡️ www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1835698-REG/newell_nl3230_p2b1_profoto_bowens_mount_adapter.html?BI=6857&KBID=7410&KWID=674621-233110
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In this video we test different light modifiers mounted to an exposed flash tube against those with a recessed flash tube. The same light, the new Godox AD600 Pro II, was used in all of these shots and we used a variety of rectagular and narrow strip boxes, a collapsible beauty dish, and a hard beauty dish. Each light modifier was run through a variety of tests including a glow test to see how even the light filled the modifier, a background test to see how the fall off varied as it spilled onto the background, a power test to see how much power was lost by either mounting option, and finally a real world model test to see if we can notice any specific lighting changes on human skin, eyes, lips, and other facial features.
There would probably be a major difference on true parabolic reflectors (because of the focus point) and barebulb on a small studio (because of bounced light)
Hi Patrick, if the recessed option uses more power, then there is a huge difference.
Recessed bulb: Higher power for the same f-stop equals less battery duration, fewer shots, slower refresh rate, longer flash duration which hinders freezing subjects and more heat which lowers bulb and internal components longevity.
Exposed bulb: Lower power means more battery duration, more shots, faster refresh rate and shorter flash durations which has better freezing power, also the exposed bulb has 100 times more airflow for cooling the bulb which in turn avoids overheating the lights internal components giving it a much higher longevity. The enclosure traps heat like an oven. 🙂
Excellent video, better than Lee's videos LOL just kidding hahaha I also love Lee's videos. 😂🤣😂
Most likely factory recessed flashes like Profoto have internal heat shields for this same reason 🙂
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
Love all the recent videos with somewhat objective/repeatable tests, very interesting and helpful.
in my experience, for most modifiers, this is a non-sequitur. I have way more other things to worry about. That being said, in general, I do generally prefer bare exposed bulb because it usually gives more light output, and for the type of work I do, I need all I can get.
Def love the thorough testing.
2-3Ev in power output is a big deal... 2Ev is a range of 600Ws vs 150Ws.. little Godox AD200 in many cases should be brighter than 500Ws Profoto
How comments like this one are not dominating the comment section is a mystery to me. 1.5 to 2.5 stop delta in power is HUGE. Death nail to recessed IMO. Who would buy an AD1200 over an AD300 because they really liked recessed mounting.
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
IMO prophoto flash heads are the best. Older ones . They allow you to focus the light by sliding the reflector or modifiers in or out. Better than any flash head I’ve ever seen. I worked with many brand sfor 40 years.
In most cases it is not going to matter much - especially solo portraits. But recently when lighting some large family portraits - 18 - 23 people - I needed to get the light as evenly across 5-6 people wide and 4 rows of people. I used a 4ft by 6 ft softbox from broncolor feathered across everyone plus a large scrim for fill. With a standard exposed tube head I was getting nearly 2-stops of fall off on the outer edge folks. When I switched to a specialized 3200ws focusing head with bulb defocused and deeper in the softbox and a specialized sunlite flashtube that protrudes further out and deeper I got a 1 stop improvement on those folks on the outer edges which is much more manageable. I would imagine even bigger fall-off issues with recessed tube in a large softbox. Edge illumination matters a lot when feathering across large groups. This is like lots of things in photography where it doesn't matter until it does. Just like high FPS, megapixels, global shutter, short flash durations etc- so many of this things don't matter except certain use cases. If you shoot that use case a lot it matters - if not you couldn't care less about a feature.
My wife said recessed flashtubes were a no go. Changed the locks, filed for divorce.
She left with half of your net worth but at least you kept the 5% increase in light quality! 😂
@@FStoppers It was worth it. You guys should debunk color science aka the bro science of photography.
Its like chefs debating 1tbs vs 1.25tbs of salt, most people couldn't tell the difference or care.
At the end of the day either the client likes your style or doesn't, and if they do they will defend it even if majority of the community is not in agreement with your style or technicalities.
This also ties in with clout, in my region if your photography carries more clout, you can't do no wrong even if you did the entire session @1/15sec in shaky action cam mode with nothing in focus.
Great video. I'm not a fan of the recessed flashtube design for strobes, but I am fully aware that it's not going to make a big difference for a few reasons, but mainly because most photographers will be feathering their lights.
However, what I think makes a bigger difference than recessed VS non-recessed is modifiers with a deflector plate in front of the flash tube. We've seen that different light pattern in your video with a beauty dish, but that can be applied to any softbox.
What the deflector plate does is that it totally or partially blocks the light that would be going directly to the center of the softbox and "forces" the light to be more powerful around it. It even creates a small darker spot in the center of the softbox. I prefer to have a dark spot in the center VS having a hot spot there.
Any flash with a softbox will work better with a deflector plate, but non-recessed flash tubes will spread the light better with it. That's one of the reasons I stayed with Elinchrom for a long time, I really love the fact that most of their strobes can use a deflector plate with any modifier, as it's a separate accessory that plugs in the umbrella hole with is very close to the flash tube.
I’ve never seen a deflector plate for a soft box. That makes sense though. Do they clip onto the hooks used to mount the diffusion panels? -P
@@FStoppers Elinchrome has a product called 'deflector kit' that is basically a changable deflector disk on a stick that fits into the umbrella holder of the strobe.
It can be used with almost any softbox or reflector (at least Elinchrome ones).
@@FStoppersNormally, they are available for umbrella-style softboxes. Check the Angler Boombox line at B&H. They all come with the deflector. As for Elinchrom, as Raken said above, the deflector kit can be used with almost all modfiers. I never use a softbox without it. Elinchrom also has 4 different deflectors : Silver, gold, transparent and white. I always use the silver one.
I would like to see this test again but comparing the exposed tube of the Godox against the Pro Foto recessed tube. Maybe there is something about how Pro Foto mounts the tube differently. That for this comparison Patrick.
I did the glow test with a deep white umbrella. Here the recessed bulb adapter was useful, since the bouncing happens further from the source, to avoid spilling and get a the diffusion intended from the shape of the umbrella
There are certain modifiers where and exposed is better. A para modifier is very well known and popular one where you can even see how the light changes when using the zoom function with the center pole.
And if I had to mention another, the Profoto Hardbox modifier makes the flashtube very small in order to give a much harder light due to the orientation. Maybe this could be countered with a much smaller, yet powerful recessed flash tube that can be made.
I need to test a parabolic. The problem with looking at how it fills the modifier is just like with the beauty dish examples, just because the lighting looks different on the modifier, it doesn’t mean the resulting images taken in front of the modifier will look different. -P
An exposed flashtube offers another capability. Barebulb flash can be utilized in a studio setting by facing the light almost vertically without any modifier. Visualize the light emanating sideways from the flashtube. It can create an effect reminiscent of the sun, as it makes the light source very small, while also bouncing omni-directionally. This yields SHARP shadows, yet they will be mysteriously filled. Just like the sun does. Being in a white studio certainly amplifies the effect. Give this party trick a try!
I agree a bare bulb exposed flash tube can do some unique things in the studio by firing in all directions. But, I would not say that it is emulating the sun. The sun is so far away that it acts like a very narrow beam of light that is hitting the earth at about 1 degree. A flash firing in all directions isn’t more similar to the sun, it’s actually less similar. -P
@@FStoppersthat’s why Profoto makes the Hard Box modifier. You should do a feature on it. It does require a Profoto light head with a bare bulb from one of their studio packs. You could probably mount your Godox light to the hard box though. The way the hard box works is it’s a dark black box with one side open and a hole in the bottom and you stick the bare bulb into the box vertically so that the light shoots out from the side like the other guy was talking about, except for because it’s only coming out of one opening in the black box It directs it straightforward without bouncing it around the studio and opening the shadows. Horses for courses.
@@FStoppers yes I agree Patrick, since light travels in a straight line, the sun's rays are more focused and narrow. In the studio, the barebulb creates a very hard shadow (like the sun) yet it's not a black shadow. A snoot or fresnel light is also small and focused, but provides a completely different look.
@@FStoppers and yet the sun DOES act more like the exposed bulb in studio setting because of how much bounced light is always filling in shadows from all directions. The Sun DOES have a very direct, narrow beam. But for most of the middle of the day, the sun beam is bouncing off of every building, street, sidewalk, and illuminates back into the atmosphere, creating a huge soft fill effect. The Sun is one source, yes, by it's by product is a lot of fill.
@@TheShelbinator3000 exactly.
Your test validates my thinking based on years of selling and using stobes, that the differences are minimal and mostly sales pitch
Didn’t use any hard reflectors. Like the Magnum.
Also the way the light spreads and interacts with the BG/environment is SUPER important to the overall image.
Also, I think you forgot, the primary bulb cover that comes with the Godox 600 Pro/II doubles as a straight reflector. You didn't have to invent your own with tape, just take the end cap off and use the one that came with the flash. (edit: never mind, the straight tube would not fit in your other Bowens modifiers. My bad. Carry on. Appreciate the videos.)
But the front part has no bowens mount right?
Wow, when you put a plate in front of the tube that reflects light back into the dish, both bulbs look similar. Who could have guessed!
For product photography where you shoot through a diffusion screen, a bare bulb strobe is preferred.
🤔Many years ago the flash diffusers I used barely had 1/10 of an aperture between the corners and the center, we have gone back a lot 🤨
I got right and I would say you missed, unfortunately, a great test, that would be the 7' parabolic umbrellas. The modifier's design should give an interesting comparison because of how light behaves in it.
How many photographers are using that modifier though? That thing is huge! -P
@@FStoppers I am. I actually use it quite a bit. Huge light source, creating superbly flattering light and keeps a white background super clean. Also, since the falloff is so massive, you can easily avoid glare in glasses by raising. It's also fantastic for big group.
Frankly, I never thought I'd use it... But it's a banger! I'd imagine a reflector would be helpful for parabolic umbrellas in general.
@@FStoppers I use the old 7' Profoto as well for group shots, not the parabolic version, it's fantastic.
@@FStoppers I use as much as possible, as it is as easy to mount as a few seconds (if you have space). The light efficiency and different square law pattern is welcome too. I use sometimes with a COB LED, but in this case they act like recessed bulbs, thus not giving the full exquisite light quality one can expect under these circumstances. This is why this modifier is on top of my mind. Thanks for the video, this was a very cool test and work you've done here.
Why didn’t you revisit the observed power delta more in your closing comments? Your 1.5-2.5 stop delta observations are huge! Who would go with a recessed setup after that?
I want to test it in one other way. We’ve tested all the max power outputs of a bunch of mono lights in a recent video. It would be interesting to see say a Profoto B10x and the Godox AD 600 pro II actually show the same loss of power when mounted to a beauty dish as I observed in this test using my DIY recessed attachment. If it’s the same 1:1 strobe to strobe then yes it’s a massive advantage. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
redo this test with the ad200pro. you can use a three type of heads on it. But I think this will only show the difference in how much power is needed.
After doing these test I have no desire to ever revisit this again. It doesn’t matter. -P
@@FStoppers 😂
Seems like the only real difference is the extra power. The other thing to consider if you have to replace a flash tube it’s real easy on an exposed tube.
I'll repeat this test on my own, just for my own (in)sanity, but one thing I want to mention is that recessed tubes are much easier to put gels on
And they are more durable in my opinion. I feel so uneasy removing large softboxes from these flashes with exposed tubes. I keep thinking I’m going to break them. That said, if they do break, the repairs are much much easier because you can just buy a new one and replace it yourself. -P
The difference to me looks like a change in modifier size. Beauty dish 28" with bare bulb vs 22" with recessed. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. Especially on the background like you mentioned. I own lights that have different heads allowing bare bulb or recessed. The difference is noticeable like in your test. Bare bulb fills the modifier better creating a more even light. I use recessed when using gels as it is easier.
You say that but I can’t tell the difference on the face at all. If the background wasn’t 1’ away and instead was 5’ away, the background lighting would be even less significant.
The two bulbs don’t have any major changes in “filling out” the softboxes and the effect on the beauty dish is visible when photographing the dish itself but not so much when looking at your subject. -P
@@FStoppers As you stated, the background lighting is where it shows most. When I use a dedicated light and modifier to evenly illuminate a background, bare bulb is the choice.
On a face, I see a difference, but it is subtle. Since my equipment allows the choice, I use bare bulb most of the time and recessed for gel use and event shooting convenience.
You should have used prophoto for for this test. They make both types of lights .no need to modify with foil also are the glow test flash or model light.?
The problem is I would have had to use two different lights which adds another variable. Different white balances, different powers, different tubes etc. -P
I used an sd100 in a beauty dish and it threw a lot of rings of Saturn pattern on the wall until I put the dome attachment on. Those rings were very dramatic
Hi Patrick is the end of the recessed light flat with the metal beauty dish? Maybe that gives the big difference 🤷♂️
Yeah I placed it so the edge of the tube was at the edge of the dish. You can def push the recessed tubes closer to the diffusion plate but that can’t be good for the modifier or efficiency. -P
I’ve been using dynalite for 40 years. With recessed tube.
Got it right, and prefer the recessed - at least in this case … less harsh shadows, and nicer skin tone … jmho
You're right, it's barely noticeable on her face.
I guessed right, but I was looking at the clothing, not the face. It's natural for me since I shoot for clothing companies.
I use 1x6 strip boxes for background lighting in tight spaces (full length: hat to shoes), it's noticeable there.
That’s wild. I’m looking at her black clothing and it looks identical to me. I’ve even stacked them in photoshop and clicked them on and off. The difference is very very subtle. -P
Great Video
Chris with Profoto did this same kind of test a couple years back and the results were pretty much the same when it comes to real-world use with modifiers. I think this is why Profoto is not interested in going back to exposed bulb models. It doesn't make a big difference.
Hi Patrick, it looks like you used an adapter extension where both sides were Bowens mounts. Can you tell me where you got it? I’ve been trying to find one.
@@JonSupko the link is in the description I believe. It’s Bowens mount with a Profoto mount on the other side so I can use my Profoto modifiers in bowens. -P
curious to see a Light color comparison between Godox and Profoto lights?...saw a photographer on Instagram that she went for Godox lights over Profoto because of the color difference, she does beauty...very curious to see this comparison...perhaps an idea for the next video
I have never heard of a photographer choosing a less expensive light over a more expensive light for color accuracy. That said, our tests in a few videos before this one showed that the color differences between 4-8 different flashes wasn’t very significant either. -P
@@FStoppers oh wow, I better watch those videos....now for those one light editorial shoots, using Godox barebulb...where typical photographers use the recessed profoto light (no umbrella, just bouncing against white wall)...how you suggest I go about using the Godox, having the light barebulb, the light would spread everywhere, would you suggest i use the Funnel metal reflectors, the small looking ice cream cup reflectors or just go barebuld?
The only possible error in your testing that I could see is that recessed flash tubes are designed to push the light out the front and you used a flash tube designed to push light out to the sides and modified it. So I believe the power issue may not actually be there. Nonetheless I thank you very much for this very informative test.
Good vid!
But is the design of actual recessed bulbs the same as the bulb you tested? I'd think a recessed bulb would be designed to throw more light in a forward direction rather than to splay the light like exposed bulbs generate. So would this test wind up with the same results if a strobe with a genuine recessed bulb was tested?
I think for the power test, a recessed tube with engineered back dish would probably have better results, but I don’t think it would matter for filling out a softbox or beauty dish. -P
I like the new thumbnail better
Which one? I uploaded 3 and let TH-cam figure it out. -P
@@FStoppers the first one I saw was just the close up of the flash bulb. Now it’s the wide angle with the red circle with the close up.
Definitely better for context. Amazing video, but I figured you’d like to know I noticed the update.
An exposed head is really useful when creating ambient fill
How are you doing that? Is your fill hard light fill or do you flag it from your subject so it just bounces around the room? -P
@@FStoppers the latter but simply turning the head backwards from the subject so it obscures itself
This is an interesting idea that I’ve had for a video concerning the myth about bounce cards on speed lights; basically the most powerful fill light will be from the closest service to your subject. So if you did your method in a perfect room where the ceiling, floor and 3 sides of the room were all basically the same distance from your light, then you’d get perfectly illuminated fill. But say your ceiling is 20’ tall and your wall behind you that your flash is firing into is also 20’ away, but the wall to your right is 6 feet away, that 6’ wall is going to be MUCH brighter and essentially it will become a side fill with the ceiling basically doing very little.
This is why I often add a reflector dish to my fill lights so I can point it directly where I want it and not have it spill all over the studio and have unpredictable /uneven effects. -P
@@FStoppers yeah exactly. Good explanation. I use this in a studio setting with controlled surfaces/wall distances that are all neutral. Basically simulating global illumination
Light quality aside, I feel like the power output difference is totally worth going with an exposed tube flash. 1-3 stops of light less depending on the modifier?! Just me or is that not a huge difference?
Yes it is! I should have made that the main point at the end of the video. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
Not a huge difference, except for the power output. That really is significant and pretty surprising to me. Guessed wrong btw 😅
the difference depends on the modifier you use. BUT a client is not going to notice at all. only my daughter that took lighting can tell the difference LOL Same with me. AND it boils down to the style I want to shoot. But only two soft boxes make a difference. the big one is in an umbrella. AND that isn't that big of a difference.
Your predicament stems from a deep attachment to Profoto, and consequently, your perspective is skewed to favor its benefits. However, the principles of physics and practical experiences from the realms of cinema and photography consistently affirm that natural, exposed light trumps all. If you wish, you could even consult artificial intelligence on this matter, and you'll find it echoing the same sentiment: exposed light is superior. This may be a bitter pill to swallow for a Profoto enthusiast, but it's an unalterable truth.
If this is true, then why do my tests not show this? I don’t think I’m biased towards Profoto because I had this same question back when I used Nikon speed lights and my friends had Alien Bees with a flash tube that stuck out. Before Profoto released their D1 heads and now their B10s, their most popular strobe heads were exposed bulbs that plugged into power packs. So it’s not a Profoto vs everyone else. Godox and Profoto both have exposed tubes and recessed tubes. -P
1 and 2/3 stop difference; for me the video ends there, and frankly it's the only thing that matters. If you have a modifier in front of it it's clear that light quality is indistinguishable; the only difference can be with bare bulbs, or semi-bare, like we saw with the rigid dish turned sideways.
But again, for me the discussion between recessed vs exposed has never been about light quality, but exclusively about raw power differences with a common modifier. And it's clear to me that recessed bulbs are definitely a no go, and I've always been astonished by people buying Profoto stuff.
I didn’t end my video with that conclusion because I feel like I need to do another test with a Profoto and Godox side by side and confirm. There is a chance the recessed bulb of a Profoto light or even any brand of speed light has the benefit of the reflector dish behind the light that makes it more efficient.
I don’t believe this would change the lighting pattern within the modifiers though but it could help make them more efficient.
Barebulb is another interesting idea because I could see having a reflector dish pushing all the light forward would give the same light quality but would be more efficient. Of course you can always add a dish to an exposed tube but you gotta own and carry that dish around. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
I got it right
We should use bd sideways 😮
Only 1 question, Why Profoto use an Exposed Bulb at ProHead and Recessed flash tube for entry level (D2-D3-B10 etc...)??? the exposed Flash Tube are most eficiently.
I don’t know why they choose two different methods. Every flash brand does this too with their speed lights. I’d imagine it’s because a recessed flash tube is more protected and generally less likely to break. The pro lights are also more likely to be used in the studio where things are typically safer and the cheaper flashes are made to take out on location.
If power output wasn’t a sacrifice, and my tests seem to suggest it is, I don’t know why you would go with an exposed flash tube since the light quality in most light modifiers doesn’t seem to change too much. -P
D2 are used by many pros. They are not entry level. They are not cheap
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X or a D2 500Ws from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
You cannot compare a recessed tube like Profoto with a soft frosted output plate and a speedlight that has the recessed tube in an optical zoom system more like a mini fresnel
Tha only light qualities I need are OFF and ON
I picked A at the beginning, for me there is not that much of a difference and I prefer to have more power output.
So you prefer the recessed flash tube over the exposed one if you picked A. -P
@@FStoppers yes base in looks, but I will always prefer more power.
I like science.
Your primary mistake is not defining what "quality of light" means. Quality of light refers to how hard or soft the light is. Recessing the tube produces a more directional, smaller light, hard light; while having an exposed tube producer a larger softer light. Think spotlight vs floodlight, it's the same principle. You forgot to do the one test that actually matters, bare bulb, no modifiers. Every other test with modifiers would be a downstream result of that test. Because the modifiers are also affecting and changing the *quality of light.* Different modifiers can have different effects with different lights, you just have to use the right tool for what you want.
There is no discernible difference in the quality of light, shadows and highlights, when most any light modifier is used with both a recessed and exposed flash tube. That is exactly what I meant. -P
It's minimal, but theres one that will show .... Umbrellas with speedlites, dome difusers, grids, and dome difusers, and no umbrella🤓 ...the other brutal difference will be how long you can shoot with the same battery pack, and overtime the wear and tear of the battery because of the extra powerdraw just because you need more light.
And with grids on the softbox.... I havent tested but leads me to extrapolate you'll need even more power🤔
Another huge one, speedlites vs exposed flash on shoot though umbrellas (and parabolic boxes with internal flash setup)
With the right DIFFUSERS you get the right result. You cant prove anything with cheap soft boxes.
The exposed bulb gives you more power, and fills out the entirety of most modifiers better, producing a softer light. Even if subtle, in your tests, there is generally a more even distribution of light across the face exposed bulb. But yes, 99.99% of non photographers would never notice or care. I get you're trying to test one variable, but I do wish you had put the power numbers on screen.
Either way, I'd rather not lose light. Exposed bulbs are *meant* to be used with modifiers, recessed are meant to be used with and without them.
99% wouldn’t notice because it’s not that big of a difference at all in all of these tests. The only one with any real difference was the beauty dish feathered sideways. -P
This is why I buy Profoto's flatfront flashes. Unlike the Godox used in this test which is white behind the flashtube, Profoto have a silver reflector behind the flashtube so it doesn't loose power. If you put a 500Ws B10X from Profoto in a large silver umbrella, it will give me more output than a Godox AD600 with 100Ws more, now that's efficiency!
I haven’t watched the whole post yet but I just have to ask if you and your audience (particularly the anti recessed head camp) are aware that the Profoto recessed heads do have built in reflex tires in the head designed to spread the light out sideways to fill the modifiers. They actually do spread the light out about 180° but with about 3 stop (I think) gradual fade beyond the 70° point. And when you shoot the recessed heads at a wall from a normal portrait distance you’ll notice the have a very even light pattern and exposure within the 70° spread then they fall off gradually in a nice patten. They give a nice unmodified hard light. Also a lot of unfamiliar users will not align the modifiers correctly and push them out into the modifiers too far restricting the spread of light. Or not too far back which also narrows the spread. I tend to line it up flush with the speed ring.
I haven’t finished watching the video but from your initial presentation it looks like you are going to have an issue with the spread of the light because there’s no built-in reflector like on the Profoto lights so it’s not gonna spread out the same and not gonna give you an accurate comparison. Going to watch now and see where your conclusions are and if you address that.
Isn't this stupid to prove that some light shaping differences can be compensated by local LR treatments !
Sooooooo phoooony opportunistic craptalk. Happy influencer business.
Ha what? What in the world could be phoned about this?
@@FStoppers phony, fake, disingenuous, hatefull, missleading, - just for money.
No one paid me for this. I asked BH Photo to send me the flash so I could do this test. I was genuinely interested and I hope the results of my tests presented in this video show that I’m not going against their findings. The only advantage I can potentially see is the exposed flash tube allow lower power settings for similar exposures. -P
@@FStoppers I mean phoney in the sens of "not genuine" (for instance it is bound to be pseudo if mixing peremtory and humble attitude ..is all but scientific, friendly, constructive, thorough, ..)
but a pretext or a cover up or an other distraction stunt (in this case to make YT trafic at any cost (to the detriment of genuity instead of sharing exchange) with a half backed king attitude etc.
"Phoney" does certainly not stand equivalent to 'corruption' or to be biased.
Will you deflect now again ?
With no doubt I'll enjoy the bait and double down again.
@@AR-vf7vgLay off the weed!