Nice Video, I have a Idea to improve it ! Bare with me, ja auch du Roman. It´s called spray cooling. Insted of beeing submerged you constantly spray a mist of water over it. The same way like a spraybottle for your windex does ( you could juse the nozzle). Continuosly, obious. How to. Take your case that you have and add to connections, one for the nozzle and one for the drainage. Idealy you would place the board in a case so that is upright. The cooler has to horizontaly installed, you spray water from above, collect the used water from underneath it, and done. you have increaced your cooling performance by a huge bit. Roman, solltest du das lesen, das könntest du auch mit dem Novec zeugs machen, führt so viel mehr Energie ab. Google Sprühkühlungen für Extrusionsanlangen.
Useless design, and technically it is reverse of Radiator with more disadvantage of no further dissipation of heat from the water. In radiator it is done by air cooling through Radiator FINS! it is good to be a Computer engineer, but implementing Mechanical to it requires knowledge.
This is a fun experiment. A few notes to take into account for your next iteration: - make sure you have the heatsink fins vertical next time. - have your water entry at the bottom of your tank, ideally the opposite corner from the exit. Both of those changes will help mitigate stagnant water between the fins and therefor improve cooling even further.
instead of putting the water entry or exit at the bottom, you could just extend one of the top tubes downward from the top. also, as much as i agree with the vertical fins, that's a lot of weight/torque to be putting on the board since it's filled with water. putting an additional pump inside to move around water may be a nice compromise.
@@samdavies1752 do the math. It's not a particularly large heatsink; there's larger and heavier ones on the market. Besides, a support bracket is easy to make.
1 more thing @major hardware you should note is that cold water is basically a poison for any system. The condensed vapor on the outside of the cooling body will drip into your motherboard and kill it.
@@EliDjahn lmao thats like saying if some youtubers wife is originally from england that we all need to watch out, because "england has their hand up his ass"
A very interesting idea, but here are a couple ideas on implementation. 1) Try polycarbonate (Lexan) instead of acrylic. It's much easier to machine - it won't shatter when cutting, drilling or tapping threads, though it's a little harder to glue. You can use the same cement, but it takes more time and more cement to "weld" a really good joint. When I glue polycarbonate I go over every seam a second time after the first one has cured. This can also help prevent leaks, but since you're backing your seams up with silicone, you should be fine. If you use 1/4" you can even drill and tap holes and use #4 machine screws to hold everything together mechanically. Of course that's a lot of work that's not needed - just more fun! :)) 2) I doubt you're getting much flow through the fins. The water is going to take the path of least resistance, so it's way more likely to go around the fins than through them. Early in your video you mentioned the idea of adding a baffle to route the water. I think that's of supreme importance. If you did that I wouldn't think you would need any bigger or better air-cooler, in fact you could probably go smaller. Good luck with version 2!!
I agree with everything you wrote there. It also seems a good idea to add some form of stands to help carry the weight of the water and the block combined. It seems like a lot of weight on the cpu.
@@welcometocattown2036 not Necessarily, when the water around the fins heat up they move up and colder water will replace them, the fins will create their own flow with the convection current
We make the lightsaber tubes "blades" from polycarbonate tube. You can beat the heall out of each other with them and they will never break lol. Its good stuff.
@@alexbakaloff I was thinking with no water involved. Kinda like how this "air cooler" has no air involved. I have no idea what that would be like or if it could even work at all. I was mostly joking.
This should be tested again, but with cold fluid entering from the bottom and the warm water removed from top, this setup is having the cold sucked straight out.
The input hose goes to the bottom and the output hose ends at the top. What it needs is input on one side and output on the other side so the cold water flows between the fins. The way it is currently the water between the fins would only move due to convection.
also he should try a passive-style heatsink, with thicker gaps between the fins so the water can more effectively pass through the fins and to avoid those airbubbles.
@@jeffsadowski exactly what I was thinking and some baffles in it to to force it to go through the fins and not around the side of the fins for the least restricted flow
For being a small channel, your videos have a very high level of polish and quality. Keep up the hard work, dude. Your channel has some serious potential to get huge!
@@MajorHardware l try this project you are genius first for all to you now that,l think what about to add ice in that reservoair,water be very very cold
@@AkashdeepSingh-qq5fw nope, unless you keep adding ice the water will eventually get too hot to remove the heat efficiently, or boil. the heat has to go somewhere and a tank of water has its limits.
I'm 6:10 in... fluid dynamics will be your biggest problem in the end, even if it proves successful, providing a proper path for fluid to flow would make the setup much more successful.
Not only that, at the end of it all he puts ice in it, potentially destroying the experiment to begin whit. If you are going to be making a water air cooler, you need to do it at the heat sink not at the fins of the exhaust. it's just a water cooler.
Nice idea, but atleast 2 flaws I can see. 1. The Copper heatpipes are going to expand and retract, causing the seal on the bottom to wear out and cause a leak, eventually. 2. the Copper in the heatpipes are going to react to the aluminum in the fins, causing corrosion.
@@tebasnineone in theory that would alleviate (but likely not solve) the issue as it comes with its own set of problems. Mineral oil spreads like a mofo making a huge mess if a spill or leak occurs, it also has a high capacitance for heat making it harder to exhaust the heat it will absorb from the block. Anti-corrosive additives and keeping an eye on the block is a better solution imo
The area contacting water is actually way much more larger than most of the water cooling system. So I think it's quite worth a try. I think it would be more efficient if the air bubbles are cleared entirely.
This is essentially a more efficient water cooler that doesn't require fans. Great potential for saving a ton of space inside the case and cutting down on cable management. I can definitely see an excellent use for this concept. I'd love to see it refined!
But ... this is actually a water heater. There is no radiator on the outside that would actually make the water cool. To fix this experiment: the in/out should be on the other (wider) sides. Also water shouldn't be able to travel where there are no fins. Then an external radiator to cool the water in the direction of the ambient temperature (or an active chiller) ... just my 2c .... as it is, it is as effective as the aquarium PCs in mineral oil.
@@paniniman6524 Sure :) keep filling your cooling system with ice while rendering/working/playing COD :) ... My point was that there was no external radiator, and that any flow will choose the least resistance. That being: not between the fins, but above/around it. Essentially just turning the experiment into an immersion heater with a circulation ...
Without size constraints , mass can compensate for flow , it would be interesting to compare. But like a water block , forcing the water to flow where you want it has the most immediate effect.
I think the limitation will be relating to the way that evaporative cooling works as that's the thing transferring the temperature differences; I'm not quite sure how it will effect things but it should be interesting.... a guess is it will set a limit to how cold it can get since if the content of the pipes remain in liquid form it'll be relying on the metal to transfer temps and not evaporation of the liquid in the pipes; we'll see.... pretty cool either way:D
the idea is really cool but i think it is really ineficient, the water isn't flowing through the vents (you can see that because of the air still between each layer) . i think you should put the input and the output horizontally and make the box of the size of the heatsink so the water only pases through the vents. i am not an engineer so if someone know much more than me please correct me i just really like this idea and want to see an improved version.
yeah that is better but something really important is making the input at the bottom and the output at the top because hot water tends to go upwards and cold water goes downwards at this state it makes perfect circulation
it's a good thought Tomy but you have to remember the fins are there to pull heat off the heat pipes. as long as there is moving water going on and around the heat pipes it will take the heat away faster then it could go to the fins as water has a higher transfer rating for heat than aluminum, and to the point where he could probably remove the fin stack keep the pipes and get close to the same results maybe 3-4 c higher in the worse case.
That's correct. That is the idea behind an efficient air to water intercooler used on engines. All the water passes through the cooling fins and none pass around the sides.
It's actually not going to be better than air cooling because those heat pipes have a fixed capacity, so they can't move heat to the radiator past a certain point, which you'd likely be able to hit with just air cooling, no water required. There's a reason why water blocks all have direct contact with the CPU block instead of a heat pipe intermediary like this.
@@jttech44 although I understand what you say, heat flux speed is directly proportional to the temperature difference, so cooling the radiator would improve the heat speed. Anyways, it's true that it won't probably be noticeably faster. It can be faster but it's likely to be just a marginal difference.
Really when u think about. Water cooling is just air cooling with extra steps. Because your still gonna use a radiator with a fan on it. The only difference is the benefit of heat transfer to water instead of copper.
@Izan TechnoMaster True that. The heat exhanger surface on this thing is huge compared with commercial water-cooling systems, even allowing for air bubbles. Given the high specific heat of water, it's probably reaching the point where the limiting factor is on the pipes/pad facing the CPU. Well, except for the fact that he doesn't yet have a radiator or evaporative cooling on the reservoir side.
Izan TechnoMaster Exactly. Most of the coolant is going to flow around the fin stack rather then through it, taking the path of least resistance. On top of that, you'd better have some pretty solid strapping to the case to support the damned thing unless you plan to leave the case on its side. I can hear his motherboard cracking when he turns the case upright and fills it with water. Also, using ice water was a really dumb idea. He's lucky that acrylic is a pretty crappy conductor of heat, so the outside of the thing (apparently) never got cold enough to form condensation on the outside of the box or tubing. Either that, or the relative humidity was very, very low that day. ;)
Agreed completely. Water will stain the copper quickly. The fan doesn't even have to run at full load, one just needs to move the liquid through the fins.
@@TheZerok666 there is no water on top of the cooler, thus you can make there a hole and glue the cable with silicon, thus no water can come out of there.
I not checked if there is a newer Version of this video so, here dear creator I have some helpful Informations to you. One mistake is your water tank. The Material is a polymer probably pp or pe, with kinda thick walls, due to the thermal absorbing features of this material it will heats the backcoming water again and again over time. The Tank should be in this case a metal box. Second thing is the glue what you mentioned yourself it causes micro cracks in the material, especially if it‘s not tempered (a technique to remove tension on amorphe and partly cristalline materials), if you used pmma/plexiglas than you should go with acrifix 2 component glue of Röhm/Evonik. Well your fittings work and may you find better options for that aswell am not sure. Anyway after you finished the pmma/plexiglas solution I absolutely recommed to temper it for around 8-10 hours at around 75 degrees celsius. It will strenghten the case against chemicals. Last step could be a cooling plate under your new metal tank, and adding glycol? to your water solution. But am not quite sure in this step how it reacts to the metal of the cooler, would be a try worth.
well if an air cooler manufacturer decides to do it the result will be better because the air cooler will be protected from corrosion unlike the corsair cooler which is not cause corsair never envisioned their cooler being exposed to a liquid coolant constantly in contant with the heat sink fins trying to cool them and corroding them over time
inverting the whole assembly would've prevented water from damaging any components and would've given you a better idea how big a leak was if one developed
@@kadajawi6567 removing heat directly from copper that contacts directly a CPU heatspreader vs. removing it from fins that remove heat from heatpipes? yeah, definitely more efficient. guys! we have some geniuses around here! * sarcasm mode off *
@@rawdez_ That would be worth testing. The contact surface in a regular water block is relatively small. I'd be interested in seeing a video that tries to emulate this test, with everything but the water block the same. It could go either way, but I would not be surprised if the increase in contact area makes a difference.
@@kadajawi6567 It doesn't. The lion's share of the heat is sinking from the copper pipes long before it reaches the aluminum fins...because thermodynamics.
I like the idea a lot, though I'm concerned about the added weight. If the Motherboard is mounted horizontally it's likely going to be less of an issue but most cases still have vertical mounting, I think the CPU socket could be in danger without a stronger retention plate to help weight distribution.
I was about to comment this, sure it can be done, but aluminium plates are not strong enough to mount tank on them, maybe directly on tubes. I was expecting of mounting tank on tubes in this video already
I worked on F-111’s in the Air Force in the early 70’s and part of the air conditioning system, which bled off engine exhaust for the source, had an air-to-water heat exchanger. Congrats for thinking outside the box.
Yep - complete the back end with a regular water loop arrangement (rad, res, pump) in a case. Then you are really comparing the heat transfer efficiency of a water block vs your water-cooled fin stack. Bonus point if the whole thing runs in a tower. (extra kg twisting load on the motherboard)
This is called a radiator. You *still need to remove* the heat from the fluid at some point in the system or you'll end up with a bucket of hot water after a couple of hours. By adding ice you've increased the thermal capacity of the system (good), which translates to a refrigerator cooled CPU. If you loop the water into your fridge then you'll have a huge and continuous heat removal system for your CPU. And then the *compressor* inside your fridge will be doing the work. See where I'm going? Heat -> Work. Work has to be done at some point. In any case I congratulate you for your ingenuity and creativity. These things make me smile.
put the case in a sealed box full of silica gel packets, they will remove any moisture and prevent condensation. of course then you have to deal with convection. even if the cpu and gpu are on their own water loops, there are other components that produce heat. they could have their own blocks. of course radiators can work in reverse, its essentially a heat exchanger and will move heat from the hot to the cold side. normally the hot side is the liquid and the cold side is the air, but you can flip it around and treat it as if its a water block, and fans can circulate the air. and it doesnt need to be air either, a high density gas like co2 can be used to improve conductivity.
well basically he is using the best possible actual cpu block, so by completely removing that bottleneck, and considering really everything else in watercooling loops are scalable, this actually could increase headroom for overclocks
@@calebv59 possibly...but only if temps were your only consern. Overclocking isn't just making sure your system is running cool, but can handle the amount of power being put through to it. With that being said, AMD and Intel could possibly create something to take advantage of such cooling power. However, with this style of cooling, it seems temps can still drop, even under load. Which means that at idle, you risk cooling your cpu to below ambient temperatures. This would cause condensation, ultimately distroying your new build. So in order to avoid this, a sensor system needs to be put in place as to when the pump will start and turn off, in order to stabilize cooling, much like gpu's have sensors for their fans. A full combination of these, and yes, overclocking could see higher limits. Further being pushed by using a coolant instead of straight water. Oh, the possibilities.
Space around the air cooler already works as liquid reservoir. Maby connect hoses to radiator with built in pump or leave pump in line on hoses. You could use some silicone to force flow trough fins. GL with improvements
1. Theoratically a water cooling system is BOTH. water flows to the CPU then to the Radiator, where the water is spread inside and being cooled with FANS. 2. Your custom cooling system is built WRONG. as if with fans it is open and constantly cooled, you closed it in a container where the heat is preserved with the water. now you'd say the water is flowing but from where to where? it would have been better to set the input water flow in the bottom and the output on top as high as possible, that way you know the water flows all the way. in your custom tank, there is no circulation or whatsoever in the bottom. Basically, a water cooling system flows water directly in the CPU and constantly flows, what you have done here, is just cooling the pieces of metal that are conducting the heat by water instead of air flow, and not built as efficiant as it should be.
Actually most aircooling systems are both as the heatpipes do use water in a vacum to speed up the transfer of heat. and yea essentially using a tower cooler as a cpublock is not as efficient be it simply because the heat has to travel through the air cooler first instead of traveling a very small distance to the cpu block's fin stack. Regardless of the heat in the fins is transfered to the water efficiently. The delta between the ice water and the cpu shows how inefficient this is.
THIS: "It would have been better to set the input water flow in the bottom and the output on top as high as possible, that way you know the water flows all the way. in your custom tank, there is no circulation or whatsoever in the bottom."
Just wanna correct you on one thing, there is almost certainly flow to the bottom of the coolant tank. Have you ever dropped food coloring in water? It continues downward since those molecules have momentum. While he could certainly get better flow of fresh water over the fins by properly positioning the inlet and outlet, right now the tank essentially swirls in a clockwise motion. It's not like the water molecules stop as soon as they hit the top of the water and then float across to go out. I suspect if he put some food color in, we would see most of the cooler tank quickly color, albeit with some dead spots, especially in the bottom corners.
My first thought too, and I'd drop a bit of dye in at some point to see the flow over the fins as I suspect there isn't much. I suspect the limiting factor though should be how good the heat conductivity is from the cpu to the heatsink, not how the water takes it away.
I would put the cold water supply on the bottom in one corner and the hot water return in the upper, opposite corner - based on the orientation the MB will be sitting in IRL...
Or just flow the water through from one side to the other without worrying about verticality. Water is always going to take the path of least resistance, so it's always going to want to go around the heat sink instead of through it unless you make that the shortest and least obstructed path. Of course, if you perfectly fit the tank to the heat sink you can _force_ the water through from any orientation. In that situation you would want the intake and output in opposite vertices with the system being fed from the top. I think OP was referring to how the out would occasionally pull in air instead of water though. That's actually because he's using the pump to pull the heated water out instead of push the cool water in, the water level won't rise any higher than that pipe. There isn't much that can be done about that unless he completely eliminates all air from the system, reversing the flow would also fix the problem but would hurt efficiency.
Well I see what your saying but the motherboard is flat on a test bench, when it would be in a normal case it would be tipped on its side. so flow bottom to top or other way around. I think this is a really cool idea but more testing is needed to see where it needs improvement. I’d recommend putting in dye to see just where the water is flowing in the tank. Would help get a better idea if fins do really need to be added.
At the end of the leak test my head went to "thermal expansion" I think I might have made it so the motherboard was on top so if it leaks your get a wet floor and not a wet computer
Good concept dude, little tip with sealing leaks once the tank is 'sealed' hook it up to a vacuum then apply extra epoxy/silicon to your weak areas to allow the vacuum to draw the sealant into the gaps youl get a much more reliable seal and also if your vacuum is good enough youl create a cap internally :)
Hacking tip 🔥🔥🔥 Flip your motherboard upside down and then You are solid NO dripping 😂😂😂 The Earth 🌏 do it Job right now. P/s Missing those days at Physics courses :))
This was actually a lot more entertaining than I thought it would be. Very interesting concept and good execution on your idea. As someone who has attempted to work with acrylic, I know how challenging it can be. Kudos for your solid work here! This is definitely not a sustainable solution as it stands but a very interesting concept that deserves further investigation. Keep it up! And you earned a sub!
You could optimize the operation of the loop by partitioning the chamber in half, forcing the cold water through the fins of the tower cooler, which would allow for less use of water and more cooling potential. If you also direct the cold water lower down in the cooler than the outlet tube, you will also be able to leverage the natural convection current of the assembly.
Orrr you could submerge the entire system in a mineral oil setup with an acrylic tub with a fan on both sides of the tower cooler to force the hot oil to the other side of the setup.
Fun fact: Some supercomputers actually do combine liquid cooling with air cooling. It's not immersion, but instead they add meshes that the air goes through. These metal meshes have liquid tubing welded into the structure, and liquid flows as needed to lower temperatures.
It is still air cooling, since liquid is just used to carry the heat to another place where its cooled by air. Basically there is only air cooling and air cooling with liquid.
Hey Brother! J from Denmark here! I think you should expand on this definately but I would love if you focused on making this some sort of DIY project where everyone can join in and using peoples own hardware in different scenarios.. If you want to get this going commercially you could build a company up from scratch where you sell DIY Kits helping people to build this, where the kit could include the best Heat Sink and pre-cut Acryl pieces and instructions and the tips and tricks you have learned.. The concept is VERY SOLID ... Im experienced in computers, and since the tendency of using extreme frequencies on CPUs still goes on amongst AMD and Intels R and D apartments, there is a future for this design you made! Its interesting to note how this actually resembles the high tech fuel cell developments that has similar design of huge metal to liquids surface area... So definately a clap on your shoulder here from me in Danmark ! Keep on working on this brother! It has great potencial... I dont even think you need such a big Heat Sink.. More important is to keep the Water or Cooling Liquid in the low temperaturs of around 10-22 Degrees CEEELCIUUUS !! VI SES ! FRED!
Or you could make a company selling these Coolers where it is like an ALL IN ONE, similar to the AIO watercoolers but just way nicer and better... Having transparent acrylic sides gives a HUUUUGE invitation to using COLORED COOLING LIQUID in the coolant cirquit.. ! I think there are AIO watercoolers already with this kind of colored liquids..
Not only break it, but also destroyed it, you could put a ice packet on a block and provided it doesn't melt onto the motherboard itself you can cool the CPU.
Tryston Kincannon although the ice solution instead of a radiator lessers the precision of the experiment as the delta T (temperature difference) is radically different from that of the ambient air, it still shows that potentially a water flow can cool the fins of an aircooler. Altough this may seem appearent, experimental data is always prefered over conjecture.
Get some mineral oil, toss a fan in there, and have it pump into a large aluminum container that you can actually dissipate heat from, and you might have a decent loop.
I do think you could improve the water flow a bit if you put a tube with holes inside the cooling block. The way it is layed out right now, most of the water circulation is happening at the top half of the unit. Love the idea!
Excellent job! Hands down, one of the best tech DIY videos on youtube! Only one thing - you should put the cold tube all the way down to the bottom of the tank, so you'll get the coldest water closest to CPU and the hot water will naturally rise up. But anyway, it's really cool. I would buy one
I'm seeing support for this also a lot of criticism. He said its a proof of concept scaling ALWAYS comes later. Unique idea I'd patent it like crazy to future proof yourself. 9/10 on originality cheers
@@qiyuxuan9437 oh, how so. It's a big heat sink that drive water though a space in an attempted to cool off the heat sink. You do understand that this is just a way worse version of a water block as the water in and out can prevent from good or effective cooling. Don't think you can call it a water and air cooling. As you would need both a water block and a separate heat sink in the same rig.
@@trystonkincannon8320 I mean, waterblock dont have heat pipes, the heat transfer directly from copper plate through micro fins which contact water. While this method with heat pipes can greatly increase water surface area.
The only issue you would have here is galvanic corrosion by having aluminum and copper in water. You would need inhibitors for anything longer then a couple of hours. Alternatively you could possibly use a full copper air cooler for better results and to avoid such issues
Saved me having to say the same. I worked at sea for 12 years. Big problem out there. We had zinc blocks fixed to the hull to act as a sacrificial material so the galvanic reaction ate the zinc rather than the hull.
I like the simplicity of it. For those that are amazed that it works, if you ever take apart a "good water blocks" have micro fins milled into the plate. This experiment right here basically just made that portion of the water block bigger and exaggerated it. So simply, he made a really big water block.
Hey, the fact that Arctic commented on this vid is awesome. They have the Alpine 11, which is this big block of aluminum with fins for passive cooling. It'd be easy enough to make a water block out of it, without the possibility of leaks due to heatpipes expanding :)
If you actually think about it, this works about the same way as a CPU waterblock but with heatpipes. Most waterblocks have microchannels cut into them to allow more surface area for cooling, and that is exactly what the fins do on an air cooler. The heatpipes themselves have liquid in them as well, which evaporates up the pipes and gets wicked backed down after. So in summary, you made a scaled up waterblock that doesn't contact the CPU directly. Great video!
Pretty nice idea man :D Well done
THANK YOU, You Are A LEGEND my man.
legend der8auer approved 😱 great job 👍🏻
If der8auer likes it its because it is a very good idea! Awesome!
Nice Video, I have a Idea to improve it ! Bare with me, ja auch du Roman.
It´s called spray cooling. Insted of beeing submerged you constantly spray a mist of water over it. The same way like a spraybottle for your windex does ( you could juse the nozzle). Continuosly, obious. How to. Take your case that you have and add to connections, one for the nozzle and one for the drainage. Idealy you would place the board in a case so that is upright. The cooler has to horizontaly installed, you spray water from above, collect the used water from underneath it, and done. you have increaced your cooling performance by a huge bit.
Roman, solltest du das lesen, das könntest du auch mit dem Novec zeugs machen, führt so viel mehr Energie ab. Google Sprühkühlungen für Extrusionsanlangen.
Uff. Pretty redundant way to cool tho. It's about as useful as filling a walk-in freezer with smaller freezers and keeping their doors open.
Q: So do you prefer Air Cooling or Water Cooling?
A: Yes.
Ahah!
The dude standing aside: wat?
r/InclusiveOr
Only time it's actually a logic answer
I think or needs to be in bold
corsairs going to steal your idea and slap some RGB on it
RGB Would be sweet
hahahahhahahahahahhah
@@MajorHardware Put the LEDs in the water. They should do it.
Useless design, and technically it is reverse of Radiator with more disadvantage of no further dissipation of heat from the water. In radiator it is done by air cooling through Radiator FINS! it is good to be a Computer engineer, but implementing Mechanical to it requires knowledge.
@@lakshaytewatia6205 U must be fun at parties.. 🙄
If your ever worried about water leaking, just turn the hole rig upside down.
GRaViTy😫
I guess the next logical step is to add an air cooler to cool the water reservoir.
But you'll need a water cooler to cool that air cooler...
@@mikechu01 next attach your entire ac to your pc cooling system
@@aircoolbro21scndling49 even better! Remove the evaporator coil and replace it win a cpu colling block!
The laws of thermodynamics giggle... :)
Or to coil the Tube in a fridge 🤣
This is a fun experiment.
A few notes to take into account for your next iteration:
- make sure you have the heatsink fins vertical next time.
- have your water entry at the bottom of your tank, ideally the opposite corner from the exit.
Both of those changes will help mitigate stagnant water between the fins and therefor improve cooling even further.
instead of putting the water entry or exit at the bottom, you could just extend one of the top tubes downward from the top. also, as much as i agree with the vertical fins, that's a lot of weight/torque to be putting on the board since it's filled with water. putting an additional pump inside to move around water may be a nice compromise.
This would put a huge amount of stress on the socket, it's not designed to support that mass of water
@@samdavies1752 do the math.
It's not a particularly large heatsink; there's larger and heavier ones on the market. Besides, a support bracket is easy to make.
1 more thing @major hardware you should note is that cold water is basically a poison for any system. The condensed vapor on the outside of the cooling body will drip into your motherboard and kill it.
@@cryonim As long as the water is above room temp u dont have condensation. and with the ammount of ice he is using that shouldnt be the case.
Linus will be doing a update version soon as he sees this 🤣..but will always remember we seen it here first
YUNVMY COOLNAME tru
Ofc he is always needing content. He has the hand of the Chinese government so far up his ass.
@@TheeCapN what does the Chinese government have to do with Linus (techtips?) ?
@@bigpat_4295 His wife is chinese
@@EliDjahn lmao thats like saying if some youtubers wife is originally from england that we all need to watch out, because "england has their hand up his ass"
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
HAHA, This needs to be a shirt, If i had a merch store it would, maybe someday.
na man you brix it
@Major Hardware It is a shirt, th-cam.com/video/ukqYB_hp6OI/w-d-xo.html
OOOOOOOH NICE that is awesome
Nice mod man.
You: *Water cools your air cooler*
*Linus would like to know your location.*
Radiator water spraying has been a thing on cars for a while now!
@@RacingSlow na nitrous is the way to cool er down lol
linus did complete pc in oil, basically the same thing
he got him on a techquickie video
@@CryptoPaperRoute In WWII they just poured used wood gas to cool the engine before using said gas as fuel.
Legit wood powered tanks.
A very interesting idea, but here are a couple ideas on implementation.
1) Try polycarbonate (Lexan) instead of acrylic. It's much easier to machine - it won't shatter when cutting, drilling or tapping threads, though it's a little harder to glue. You can use the same cement, but it takes more time and more cement to "weld" a really good joint. When I glue polycarbonate I go over every seam a second time after the first one has cured. This can also help prevent leaks, but since you're backing your seams up with silicone, you should be fine. If you use 1/4" you can even drill and tap holes and use #4 machine screws to hold everything together mechanically. Of course that's a lot of work that's not needed - just more fun! :))
2) I doubt you're getting much flow through the fins. The water is going to take the path of least resistance, so it's way more likely to go around the fins than through them. Early in your video you mentioned the idea of adding a baffle to route the water. I think that's of supreme importance. If you did that I wouldn't think you would need any bigger or better air-cooler, in fact you could probably go smaller.
Good luck with version 2!!
I agree with everything you wrote there. It also seems a good idea to add some form of stands to help carry the weight of the water and the block combined. It seems like a lot of weight on the cpu.
Methylene Chloride is my bonder of choice, only need to do it once on the inside seem, if I really want to make sure I do the outside also.
Imo, you would also need some cooling for the water as well, as it gets hot really fast. Put an external rad down the route.
@@welcometocattown2036 not Necessarily, when the water around the fins heat up they move up and colder water will replace them, the fins will create their own flow with the convection current
We make the lightsaber tubes "blades" from polycarbonate tube. You can beat the heall out of each other with them and they will never break lol. Its good stuff.
Up next: I Blow Cool Air Through a Water Cooler.
HAHAHAHA
Lmao
After that: I blow cool air through a water cooled air cooler
that's how radiators kinda work tho :/
@@alexbakaloff
I was thinking with no water involved. Kinda like how this "air cooler" has no air involved. I have no idea what that would be like or if it could even work at all. I was mostly joking.
This feels like something Linus would have told one of his employees to attempt to build. Looking forward to more.
@Melanie L what makes you hate linus?
@@chyrt Don't feed the trolls.
@@BBuncky2 that sounds like pretty good advice
No joke, I wasn't paying attention to who this was from and clicked thinking it was a Linus video.
I am sure linus is smart enough to say no to ice in the reservoir.
I want to see an updated more refined version of this. The kit looks badass. Proud of you bruh. 👍👍👍
i wonder if anything came of this
In terms of goofy shit, this is Linus-League.
Congrats...because this thing actually works, you have managed to out-Linus Linus.
Didn't drop it either
@@boheyo This is also a good point.
Congratulations, you broke TH-cams algorithms.
This exactly. Gratz man. This is now if not viral then at least semi-viral.
@@IljaSara I think this is viral. 8 hours ago he had about 1000 followers.
Nice. Quite a leap. :)
I mean, is already broke XD.
@@soragranda that's a good point 🤔😁
Up Next: I water cool my water cooler for my air cooler
nah nah, LIQUID NITRGOEN cool my water cooler for my air cooler
Nah, I air cool my water cooler for my air cooler
Ice cool my water cooler for my air cooler
Xzibit, is that you?
this comment shows how dumb is to watercool the air cooler
This should be tested again, but with cold fluid entering from the bottom and the warm water removed from top, this setup is having the cold sucked straight out.
I thought about the same thing
The input hose goes to the bottom and the output hose ends at the top. What it needs is input on one side and output on the other side so the cold water flows between the fins. The way it is currently the water between the fins would only move due to convection.
will not matter in long run after the system is saturated with heat.
also he should try a passive-style heatsink, with thicker gaps between the fins so the water can more effectively pass through the fins and to avoid those airbubbles.
For version 2.0, get some 90 degree fittings to force water through the fins.
@@jeffsadowski exactly what I was thinking and some baffles in it to to force it to go through the fins and not around the side of the fins for the least restricted flow
@@jeffsadowski i would suggest a shroud for the inlet and the outlet directed at the fins that way it gets to all if not most of them.
YES! and put the input and output hoses on the sides for when the Mobo is mounted sideways in a Rig.
@@comadamptog6606 Exactly what I was thinking or just use Jeffs idea. Seriously cool video.
and add small fish for some next level decoration. RGB is so last year
For being a small channel, your videos have a very high level of polish and quality. Keep up the hard work, dude. Your channel has some serious potential to get huge!
Good idea but you gotta think about water flow within the cooler tank. It easily bypasses most of the cooling fins.
Congrats on getting picked up by the algorithm 😂
All hail the algorithm
@@MajorHardware l try this project you are genius first for all to you now that,l think what about to add ice in that reservoair,water be very very cold
@@MajorHardware and some led be nice water and led nice
hey i have a question. Is this solution better than traditional liquid cooling?
@@AkashdeepSingh-qq5fw nope, unless you keep adding ice the water will eventually get too hot to remove the heat efficiently, or boil. the heat has to go somewhere and a tank of water has its limits.
*_ARCTIC_*_ wants to know your location_
You gotta make this a product.
you better not be patent trolling for products you clearly don't sell yet.
Wow artic contacting u
F*cking hell, ARCTIC IS HERE?!?
lmfao
I'm 6:10 in... fluid dynamics will be your biggest problem in the end, even if it proves successful, providing a proper path for fluid to flow would make the setup much more successful.
My thoughts exactly. A piece across the top to stop the fluid taking the shortest path would force it through the fins.
@@aperturescience2 THANK YOU! im glad i was not the only one
Change to the bigger flow water pump.. and make separate room so water can flow better through the heat transfer area..
@@Bill.Papadakis Mick Lapworth He literally mentions this in the video kids
Not only that, at the end of it all he puts ice in it, potentially destroying the experiment to begin whit. If you are going to be making a water air cooler, you need to do it at the heat sink not at the fins of the exhaust. it's just a water cooler.
Major Hardware: If this video does well....
1.8 million people: HMMMMMMMMM
Cooler master wants to know your location
new cpu cooling system will be produced soon based on this experiment >>> wait and see
@@ahmedalbusaidi9538 no it wont.
Already done
Nice idea, but atleast 2 flaws I can see.
1. The Copper heatpipes are going to expand and retract, causing the seal on the bottom to wear out and cause a leak, eventually.
2. the Copper in the heatpipes are going to react to the aluminum in the fins, causing corrosion.
Went down into the comments looking for someone talking about galvanic corrosion. Glad I'm not the only one who noticed this huge issue.
Usually takes a while and there are additives to further slow it down
But, if we replace water with something like "mineral oil", is corrosion still a concern?
Man none of y'all have ever taken a chemistry class
@@tebasnineone in theory that would alleviate (but likely not solve) the issue as it comes with its own set of problems. Mineral oil spreads like a mofo making a huge mess if a spill or leak occurs, it also has a high capacitance for heat making it harder to exhaust the heat it will absorb from the block. Anti-corrosive additives and keeping an eye on the block is a better solution imo
Isn't this just water cooling with extra steps?
A water cooler is just a air cooler with extra seps.
this is CPU-air cooling interface and the water cooling is a cooper-CPU interface, so technically this is just what you say with extra steps...
NO NO NO a bit,yes.
Ah yes, inefficiency.
The area contacting water is actually way much more larger than most of the water cooling system. So I think it's quite worth a try. I think it would be more efficient if the air bubbles are cleared entirely.
This is essentially a more efficient water cooler that doesn't require fans. Great potential for saving a ton of space inside the case and cutting down on cable management. I can definitely see an excellent use for this concept. I'd love to see it refined!
The algorithm just dropped this in my queue. Sweet. Now to see your playlist to see if you did an update!
Same
same. lol
Same lol
Me 2
Same lol, I wonder why this is getting promoted now, 1 year later
Linus want to know your location
Linus is a jealous Apple hater and that's all he is...kid needs to get laid
@@walmartskills he doesn't hate apple, actually he used to have an iPhone not too long ago. He doesn't like some (a lot) of the things apple does
@@bubbleboy821 Lol everyone has to deal with the stuff apple does, he isn't special
@@walmartskills why you hating on linus he on his grind unlike you
@@walmartskills you an actual hater
When I was at school, i was always taught to use masking tape when cutting acrylic. It prevents splitting and the acrylic melting back together.
But ... this is actually a water heater. There is no radiator on the outside that would actually make the water cool.
To fix this experiment: the in/out should be on the other (wider) sides. Also water shouldn't be able to travel where there are no fins. Then an external radiator to cool the water in the direction of the ambient temperature (or an active chiller) ...
just my 2c .... as it is, it is as effective as the aquarium PCs in mineral oil.
well i just wrote the same thing :D
seems I would not have needed to do this.. :D
I agree to your view^^
the guy literally said that in the video. watch shit before you comment
Theres ice in it so it should be fine
@@paniniman6524 Sure :) keep filling your cooling system with ice while rendering/working/playing COD :) ...
My point was that there was no external radiator, and that any flow will choose the least resistance. That being: not between the fins, but above/around it. Essentially just turning the experiment into an immersion heater with a circulation ...
add a radiator and a fan and it basically becomes a makeshift aio
Next I would recommend making the acrylic box smaller to force more of the water through the fin stack
Keep going smaller andddd you end up with an AIO.
fluid dynamics dont work this way
Without size constraints , mass can compensate for flow , it would be interesting to compare. But like a water block , forcing the water to flow where you want it has the most immediate effect.
I think the limitation will be relating to the way that evaporative cooling works as that's the thing transferring the temperature differences; I'm not quite sure how it will effect things but it should be interesting.... a guess is it will set a limit to how cold it can get since if the content of the pipes remain in liquid form it'll be relying on the metal to transfer temps and not evaporation of the liquid in the pipes; we'll see.... pretty cool either way:D
and to reduce the huge amount of weight from the block and water
the idea is really cool but i think it is really ineficient, the water isn't flowing through the vents (you can see that because of the air still between each layer) . i think you should put the input and the output horizontally and make the box of the size of the heatsink so the water only pases through the vents. i am not an engineer so if someone know much more than me please correct me i just really like this idea and want to see an improved version.
yeah that is better but something really important is making the input at the bottom and the output at the top because hot water tends to go upwards and cold water goes downwards at this state it makes perfect circulation
@@M3NBu the low strength of convection makes it essentially irrelevant if you're actively moving the fluid
it's a good thought Tomy but you have to remember the fins are there to pull heat off the heat pipes. as long as there is moving water going on and around the heat pipes it will take the heat away faster then it could go to the fins as water has a higher transfer rating for heat than aluminum, and to the point where he could probably remove the fin stack keep the pipes and get close to the same results maybe 3-4 c higher in the worse case.
That's correct. That is the idea behind an efficient air to water intercooler used on engines. All the water passes through the cooling fins and none pass around the sides.
@@M3NBu continuing from another reply, we cant account for all positions someone may put the block in so might as well not account for convection.
In my best Rick voice: "That's just water cooling with extra steps"
It's actually not going to be better than air cooling because those heat pipes have a fixed capacity, so they can't move heat to the radiator past a certain point, which you'd likely be able to hit with just air cooling, no water required.
There's a reason why water blocks all have direct contact with the CPU block instead of a heat pipe intermediary like this.
Yea....without air well...yea just water cooled right?
Wubba lubba dub dub
@@jttech44 although I understand what you say, heat flux speed is directly proportional to the temperature difference, so cooling the radiator would improve the heat speed.
Anyways, it's true that it won't probably be noticeably faster. It can be faster but it's likely to be just a marginal difference.
Really when u think about. Water cooling is just air cooling with extra steps. Because your still gonna use a radiator with a fan on it. The only difference is the benefit of heat transfer to water instead of copper.
Major Hardware: "lets water cool our air cooler"
Linus a few years ago: Lets put the entire pc in a fridge🤣
Why not a freezer
Monkey D. Luffy I think it was a water cooled pc and if he did that the water in the tubes would freeze
@@Loganvbills I’d still say 0* F should still freeze it, unless it’s going a fair bit faster than it really should be.
@@Loganvbills True BUT you can find frozen waterfalls.
@@CypressConroy the condensation in a freezer would short out the computer; he did use a compressor cooled PC though.
14:19 Don't worry about checking for leaks, if there are any, you'l know.
The legend 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I’ve had that exact cooler for about 12 years, I have always worried about that happening, it hasn’t, yet!
@@SocialSpit You're checking for leaks on an heat-sink?
World's...
Biggest...
Waterblock
@Izan TechnoMaster True that. The heat exhanger surface on this thing is huge compared with commercial water-cooling systems, even allowing for air bubbles. Given the high specific heat of water, it's probably reaching the point where the limiting factor is on the pipes/pad facing the CPU. Well, except for the fact that he doesn't yet have a radiator or evaporative cooling on the reservoir side.
Izan TechnoMaster
Exactly. Most of the coolant is going to flow around the fin stack rather then through it, taking the path of least resistance. On top of that, you'd better have some pretty solid strapping to the case to support the damned thing unless you plan to leave the case on its side. I can hear his motherboard cracking when he turns the case upright and fills it with water.
Also, using ice water was a really dumb idea. He's lucky that acrylic is a pretty crappy conductor of heat, so the outside of the thing (apparently) never got cold enough to form condensation on the outside of the box or tubing. Either that, or the relative humidity was very, very low that day. ;)
When mom says we have aio’s at home
Hey it’s the best made cpu block, guaranteed to give you the best heat transfer from cpu to water
*applies epoxy to air cooler*
Morgan Freeman: There's no going back now.
"My PC is WatAir cooled"
I would go for Wet-Air cooled
More like what air cooled
You should do this again and use mineral oil instead of water and leave the fan on the heat sink. Like this so he can see it 😉👌🏻
Agreed completely. Water will stain the copper quickly. The fan doesn't even have to run at full load, one just needs to move the liquid through the fins.
Dude, that's an awesome idea. I want to see this!
it's gonna be tough to figure out a good way of having the fan cable connect to the board while it's in the tank
@@TheZerok666 using cable gland? :D
@@TheZerok666 there is no water on top of the cooler, thus you can make there a hole and glue the cable with silicon, thus no water can come out of there.
Second radiator to chill the water out, larger pump and tighten the walls to force the water to go through 212 evo fins.
Stamo Hristov was hoping someone would have said this. Should work better by absolutely forcing the water through the fins
and have the the blow and the suck on opposite sides of the heatsink and not at the top
Yeh, those air pockets really held this back, maybe side fittings would be the way to go, and air must be removed between the fins.
I not checked if there is a newer Version of this video so, here dear creator I have some helpful Informations to you.
One mistake is your water tank.
The Material is a polymer probably pp or pe, with kinda thick walls, due to the thermal absorbing features of this material it will heats the backcoming water again and again over time.
The Tank should be in this case a metal box.
Second thing is the glue what you mentioned yourself it causes micro cracks in the material, especially if it‘s not tempered (a technique to remove tension on amorphe and partly cristalline materials), if you used pmma/plexiglas than you should go with acrifix 2 component glue of Röhm/Evonik.
Well your fittings work and may you find better options for that aswell am not sure.
Anyway after you finished the pmma/plexiglas solution I absolutely recommed to temper it for around 8-10 hours at around 75 degrees celsius. It will strenghten the case against chemicals.
Last step could be a cooling plate under your new metal tank, and adding glycol? to your water solution. But am not quite sure in this step how it reacts to the metal of the cooler, would be a try worth.
H: What is your cpu cooling system ?
M: Water cooled air cooler.
Chilled water aircooler.
Alcohol cooled fan cooler
Technically, it's a water-cooled heatsink.
It's just water cooling with extra steps, as it does not contain any fans at all.
well if an air cooler manufacturer decides to do it the result will be better because the air cooler will be protected from corrosion unlike the corsair cooler which is not cause corsair never envisioned their cooler being exposed to a liquid coolant constantly in contant with the heat sink fins trying to cool them and corroding them over time
This is probably the most original content I’ve seen on TH-cam in a while. Which is rare now a days. Great job
inverting the whole assembly would've prevented water from damaging any components and would've given you a better idea how big a leak was if one developed
"there are only two options to cool your cpu"
Liquid Nitrogen Set up: Am I a Joke to you?
I would not call this cooling, but freezing, since it's the next level hahaha
Dont forget that LTT mineral oil pc
I mean, it is a liquid
in the market yes, consider that liquid nitrogen is not used by everyone
@@Fenrich2005 but can be used by literally anyone. It's not particualry difficult to get into LN2 cooling
Kids: use air cooler
Men: use water cooler
Legends: use water cooled air coolers
Gods: use air cooled water cooled air coolers
Technically water coolers are air cooled
Yea xD every piece of the heatsink separated and water cooled
then there’s me with thermal cooling
Me an intellectual: use liquid nitrogen
Urban Legend: use water cooled air con
Wait but that's just watercooling with extra steps.
Skaret98 that's a deep cut. I approve 👍
Yeah but I'd imagine that much bigger heat exchanger is going to help quite a bit compared to the ones that are usually used.
@@kadajawi6567 removing heat directly from copper that contacts directly a CPU heatspreader vs. removing it from fins that remove heat from heatpipes?
yeah, definitely more efficient. guys! we have some geniuses around here!
* sarcasm mode off *
@@rawdez_ That would be worth testing. The contact surface in a regular water block is relatively small.
I'd be interested in seeing a video that tries to emulate this test, with everything but the water block the same. It could go either way, but I would not be surprised if the increase in contact area makes a difference.
@@kadajawi6567 It doesn't.
The lion's share of the heat is sinking from the copper pipes long before it reaches the aluminum fins...because thermodynamics.
I like the idea a lot, though I'm concerned about the added weight. If the Motherboard is mounted horizontally it's likely going to be less of an issue but most cases still have vertical mounting, I think the CPU socket could be in danger without a stronger retention plate to help weight distribution.
Nah it's strong enough it it can hold be quiet Coolers this is a small amount of water
I was about to comment this, sure it can be done, but aluminium plates are not strong enough to mount tank on them, maybe directly on tubes. I was expecting of mounting tank on tubes in this video already
some compact liquid coolers have the radiators literally on the socket so i dont think this is an issue
I worked on F-111’s in the Air Force in the early 70’s and part of the air conditioning system, which bled off engine exhaust for the source, had an air-to-water heat exchanger. Congrats for thinking outside the box.
Time to step up the game and make a version 2.0 by connecting the tube to a radiator.
Yep - complete the back end with a regular water loop arrangement (rad, res, pump) in a case.
Then you are really comparing the heat transfer efficiency of a water block vs your water-cooled fin stack.
Bonus point if the whole thing runs in a tower. (extra kg twisting load on the motherboard)
Water that cold I'd be worrying about it sweating.
Are you sweating bullets worrying about it sweating?
Condensation?
Diamonddogusa yep going sub ambient isn’t a good idea for condensation.
Do you mean condensation?
@@dhruvjat8150 yes, condensation. Like on a glass of ice tea on a warm Georgia afternoon.
Congrats bro,your video has been shared by PC gamer in their new article
That's actually awesome!!!!
@@MajorHardware That's a lie. If it's not about fortnite, it's not from PC Gamer.
APEX....................
Does that help?
i got killed by dizzy on apex legends recently
This is called a radiator. You *still need to remove* the heat from the fluid at some point in the system or you'll end up with a bucket of hot water after a couple of hours. By adding ice you've increased the thermal capacity of the system (good), which translates to a refrigerator cooled CPU. If you loop the water into your fridge then you'll have a huge and continuous heat removal system for your CPU. And then the *compressor* inside your fridge will be doing the work. See where I'm going? Heat -> Work. Work has to be done at some point.
In any case I congratulate you for your ingenuity and creativity. These things make me smile.
I'd be wary of using ice water, you don't have a way of dealing with condensation on your tank. Cool idea though.
put the case in a sealed box full of silica gel packets, they will remove any moisture and prevent condensation. of course then you have to deal with convection. even if the cpu and gpu are on their own water loops, there are other components that produce heat. they could have their own blocks. of course radiators can work in reverse, its essentially a heat exchanger and will move heat from the hot to the cold side. normally the hot side is the liquid and the cold side is the air, but you can flip it around and treat it as if its a water block, and fans can circulate the air. and it doesnt need to be air either, a high density gas like co2 can be used to improve conductivity.
Use some low profile/flat cooler with heatpipes and then build a enclosure around it.
You don't need this much fins.
If you make it well it will look cool if it is big.
well basically he is using the best possible actual cpu block, so by completely removing that bottleneck, and considering really everything else in watercooling loops are scalable, this actually could increase headroom for overclocks
@@calebv59 possibly...but only if temps were your only consern. Overclocking isn't just making sure your system is running cool, but can handle the amount of power being put through to it. With that being said, AMD and Intel could possibly create something to take advantage of such cooling power. However, with this style of cooling, it seems temps can still drop, even under load. Which means that at idle, you risk cooling your cpu to below ambient temperatures. This would cause condensation, ultimately distroying your new build. So in order to avoid this, a sensor system needs to be put in place as to when the pump will start and turn off, in order to stabilize cooling, much like gpu's have sensors for their fans. A full combination of these, and yes, overclocking could see higher limits. Further being pushed by using a coolant instead of straight water. Oh, the possibilities.
Ver 2.0 Build a real fish tank, put some fish and your heat sink in there
they would want to be tropical fish at 45 degree's C lol
th-cam.com/video/tqku9z-Wesg/w-d-xo.html
Aorus Fishtank build
Maybe he should just put a radiator in the fish tank.
The heat fluctuations will really kill the fish in there.
checkmate! water cooling ends with air cooling, you are re-reinventing the way!
think about integrating the pump and tank as a unit, and a 120 rad exhausting air out the top or back of the case
So many great ideas from all you guys, I could have projects for years, I need a laser cutter for sure.
Space around the air cooler already works as liquid reservoir. Maby connect hoses to radiator with built in pump or leave pump in line on hoses. You could use some silicone to force flow trough fins. GL with improvements
@@MajorHardware I can cut it for you
1. Theoratically a water cooling system is BOTH. water flows to the CPU then to the Radiator, where the water is spread inside and being cooled with FANS.
2. Your custom cooling system is built WRONG. as if with fans it is open and constantly cooled, you closed it in a container where the heat is preserved with the water. now you'd say the water is flowing but from where to where? it would have been better to set the input water flow in the bottom and the output on top as high as possible, that way you know the water flows all the way. in your custom tank, there is no circulation or whatsoever in the bottom.
Basically, a water cooling system flows water directly in the CPU and constantly flows, what you have done here, is just cooling the pieces of metal that are conducting the heat by water instead of air flow, and not built as efficiant as it should be.
Actually most aircooling systems are both as the heatpipes do use water in a vacum to speed up the transfer of heat.
and yea essentially using a tower cooler as a cpublock is not as efficient be it simply because the heat has to travel through the air cooler first instead of traveling a very small distance to the cpu block's fin stack. Regardless of the heat in the fins is transfered to the water efficiently. The delta between the ice water and the cpu shows how inefficient this is.
THIS: "It would have been better to set the input water flow in the bottom and the output on top as high as possible, that way you know the water flows all the way. in your custom tank, there is no circulation or whatsoever in the bottom."
Just wanna correct you on one thing, there is almost certainly flow to the bottom of the coolant tank. Have you ever dropped food coloring in water? It continues downward since those molecules have momentum. While he could certainly get better flow of fresh water over the fins by properly positioning the inlet and outlet, right now the tank essentially swirls in a clockwise motion. It's not like the water molecules stop as soon as they hit the top of the water and then float across to go out. I suspect if he put some food color in, we would see most of the cooler tank quickly color, albeit with some dead spots, especially in the bottom corners.
If he lowered the pipe that is sucking the water almost to the the bottom he could avoid the skeeting problem
My first thought too, and I'd drop a bit of dye in at some point to see the flow over the fins as I suspect there isn't much. I suspect the limiting factor though should be how good the heat conductivity is from the cpu to the heatsink, not how the water takes it away.
How to do CPU heat conductivity measurements? Is it DIY-friendly?
@@paschalx Yea just test the temps on your cpu xd
I would put the cold water supply on the bottom in one corner and the hot water return in the upper, opposite corner - based on the orientation the MB will be sitting in IRL...
Or just flow the water through from one side to the other without worrying about verticality. Water is always going to take the path of least resistance, so it's always going to want to go around the heat sink instead of through it unless you make that the shortest and least obstructed path.
Of course, if you perfectly fit the tank to the heat sink you can _force_ the water through from any orientation. In that situation you would want the intake and output in opposite vertices with the system being fed from the top.
I think OP was referring to how the out would occasionally pull in air instead of water though. That's actually because he's using the pump to pull the heated water out instead of push the cool water in, the water level won't rise any higher than that pipe. There isn't much that can be done about that unless he completely eliminates all air from the system, reversing the flow would also fix the problem but would hurt efficiency.
To put it in some numbers, the same volume of water has about 3000 times more thermal capacity as air.
Nah man I just run hoses to my toilet bowl if it gets hot flush for new cold water👍
we just found out who's responsible for global warming
@@robknight9406 I did put leds in it so ya its
Glow bowl warming
Thr Pins 😂
@@thrpins8430 This comment is underrated.
This is hilarious! Please don't really do that though lmao...
who else thought this guy had a ton of subs because of vid quality
just realized he only has 6k, wow!
No
ikr
yeah, shame he only has 7,3 tons
@@kramler yesterday just 3,7 mate.. now 7.3 ... 4k subs in a night
Design flaw: Input and output on same level.
Better: Place input at bottom of container.
Also he probably wants to put a divider in the tank to direct the flow of water through the fins instead of around them
I was gonna comment the same. Glad someone else noticed.
ganzano this what I’m going to say
I never thought about it. Good idea.
Well I see what your saying but the motherboard is flat on a test bench, when it would be in a normal case it would be tipped on its side. so flow bottom to top or other way around. I think this is a really cool idea but more testing is needed to see where it needs improvement. I’d recommend putting in dye to see just where the water is flowing in the tank. Would help get a better idea if fins do really need to be added.
At the end of the leak test my head went to "thermal expansion"
I think I might have made it so the motherboard was on top so if it leaks your get a wet floor and not a wet computer
now this is how you get around the asetek patent
sooooooooo under rated...What a great freaking video
Thank you it was a lot of fun making this one!
@@MajorHardware Next step is to watercool a watercooler.I mean,the radiator.
@@MajorHardware I called it...YOU'RE BLOWING UP!!!
At last. A TH-camr that thinks outside the box. Subscribed
welcome aboard
Well.... He actually put the cooler in a box so.... There is that.... Lol
@@orusandornots1915 dammit I was gonna say that ;-;
Uhm, Jayz and Linus did similar things a couple months back.
More like inside an acrylic box. 😂😂😂
Good concept dude, little tip with sealing leaks once the tank is 'sealed' hook it up to a vacuum then apply extra epoxy/silicon to your weak areas to allow the vacuum to draw the sealant into the gaps youl get a much more reliable seal and also if your vacuum is good enough youl create a cap internally :)
I've always thought about this and told my friend, he liked it as well. I can't believe someone has done it. Thumps up
Hacking tip 🔥🔥🔥
Flip your motherboard upside down and then You are solid NO dripping 😂😂😂
The Earth 🌏 do it Job right now.
P/s Missing those days at Physics courses :))
I was thinking the same 🤣
Yeah but then all your AIDA data points would read upside down too! Har har har :)
Doesn't work in Australia
dasame idea here
problem that heat pipes (which are main thing of air coller) will not works or works not effective upside down
This was actually a lot more entertaining than I thought it would be. Very interesting concept and good execution on your idea. As someone who has attempted to work with acrylic, I know how challenging it can be. Kudos for your solid work here! This is definitely not a sustainable solution as it stands but a very interesting concept that deserves further investigation. Keep it up! And you earned a sub!
You could just... add a water block
But I appreciate the science that’s being done
And a radiator.
When LTT says "It depends", majorhardware says "Hold my dew"
You could optimize the operation of the loop by partitioning the chamber in half, forcing the cold water through the fins of the tower cooler, which would allow for less use of water and more cooling potential. If you also direct the cold water lower down in the cooler than the outlet tube, you will also be able to leverage the natural convection current of the assembly.
Orrr you could submerge the entire system in a mineral oil setup with an acrylic tub with a fan on both sides of the tower cooler to force the hot oil to the other side of the setup.
Nice ghettomod. You should put paper towels under while testing to see water easily and also minimize damage during testing.
Fun fact: Some supercomputers actually do combine liquid cooling with air cooling. It's not immersion, but instead they add meshes that the air goes through. These metal meshes have liquid tubing welded into the structure, and liquid flows as needed to lower temperatures.
Just a comment to help you with the TH-cam algorithm. Nice work. God bless you.
Well, it worked.
It's still a water cooled CPU you just made an enormous water block.
It is still air cooling, since liquid is just used to carry the heat to another place where its cooled by air. Basically there is only air cooling and air cooling with liquid.
onearthonelegion 🤦♂️
@@onearthonelegion right
Im looking for the fan....
@@zachandowen8205 thats only a test-rig. if you want to let it run longer you have to cool the water down. with a radiator and fan's on it. 😜
This quality of content and only 3.6k subs???? unreal.
He at 5.8k now and its only been a day. Amazing.
I had a huge smile on my face this whole video, such a great idea to play with! Thanks
I'm glad this was in my recommend. Nice video!
I mean, technically isn't this literally just a massive scale version of exactly what's happening in a water cooling block?
Is mayonnaise an instrument? Yup
Exactly!
Yep, but the area for heat transfer more bigger than the original water cooled system..
@@passingbyguy Yep, but the water flows more slowly on the radiator than in the water block.
A real water system would have a means of cooling the water...without a radiator that water will be boiling in short order.
So this is what happens when we use 100% of our brain...
Hey Brother! J from Denmark here!
I think you should expand on this definately but I would love if you focused on making this some sort of DIY project where everyone can join in and using peoples own hardware in different scenarios..
If you want to get this going commercially you could build a company up from scratch where you sell DIY Kits helping people to build this, where the kit could include the best Heat Sink and pre-cut Acryl pieces and instructions and the tips and tricks you have learned..
The concept is VERY SOLID ... Im experienced in computers, and since the tendency of using extreme frequencies on CPUs still goes on amongst AMD and Intels R and D apartments, there is a future for this design you made!
Its interesting to note how this actually resembles the high tech fuel cell developments that has similar design of huge metal to liquids surface area...
So definately a clap on your shoulder here from me in Danmark !
Keep on working on this brother! It has great potencial...
I dont even think you need such a big Heat Sink.. More important is to keep the Water or Cooling Liquid in the low temperaturs of around 10-22 Degrees CEEELCIUUUS !!
VI SES ! FRED!
Or you could make a company selling these Coolers where it is like an ALL IN ONE, similar to the AIO watercoolers but just way nicer and better...
Having transparent acrylic sides gives a HUUUUGE invitation to using COLORED COOLING LIQUID in the coolant cirquit.. ! I think there are AIO watercoolers already with this kind of colored liquids..
By running it through ice water, you kinda break the experiment
Not only break it, but also destroyed it, you could put a ice packet on a block and provided it doesn't melt onto the motherboard itself you can cool the CPU.
Tryston Kincannon although the ice solution instead of a radiator lessers the precision of the experiment as the delta T (temperature difference) is radically different from that of the ambient air, it still shows that potentially a water flow can cool the fins of an aircooler. Altough this may seem appearent, experimental data is always prefered over conjecture.
I think the main point if this was to show it could be done. The ice obviously negates any temperature readings.
What about water-cooling a AIO radiator ? :D
steve and jay already dipped radiators in ice and water lol
Kyle from BitWit too
wont help temps much unless you can blow AC or cool the water constantly lower then ambient temps but then you run into the problem of condensation.
"We've just watercooled the watercooling system radiator to make sure you're watercooled more than ever!" LOL
and water cool the radiator on the loop cooling the aio radiator
Get some mineral oil, toss a fan in there, and have it pump into a large aluminum container that you can actually dissipate heat from, and you might have a decent loop.
a fan in the oil?
@@Nik.ff. Yes? it means you have more movement over the fins and you can dump more heat, same thought process as with fans in air on a heatsink.
@@Nik.ff. Why not?
@@SCComega i wasn't asking why, i was asking if thats what you meant. I think it'd be cool.
@@Nik.ff. yeah mineral oil will ruin electronics it's not conductive
Would love for you to revisit this idea now that you have 3D printers, could maybe do a crossover with the fan showdown
I do think you could improve the water flow a bit if you put a tube with holes inside the cooling block. The way it is layed out right now, most of the water circulation is happening at the top half of the unit.
Love the idea!
Excellent job! Hands down, one of the best tech DIY videos on youtube! Only one thing - you should put the cold tube all the way down to the bottom of the tank, so you'll get the coldest water closest to CPU and the hot water will naturally rise up. But anyway, it's really cool. I would buy one
They make these, they are called water blocks. He just sized it up so big, and probably will not have proper water flow, to make it last.
Do you want it water-cooled or air-cooled?
MH: Yes.
Fp, why copy it!
@@saifabdulla709 he didn't, I wrote that too, deleted it when I saw the 6,4k liked comment
I'm seeing support for this also a lot of criticism. He said its a proof of concept scaling ALWAYS comes later. Unique idea I'd patent it like crazy to future proof yourself.
9/10 on originality cheers
Props on thinking outside of the box and building it shocked this has not been done. Thumbs up for me
This has been done so many time before this guy, he's just the first to scale it up so big, you ever hair of a water block. or was this sarcasm?
@@trystonkincannon8320 well, technically this work differently than a waterblock.
@@qiyuxuan9437 oh, how so. It's a big heat sink that drive water though a space in an attempted to cool off the heat sink. You do understand that this is just a way worse version of a water block as the water in and out can prevent from good or effective cooling. Don't think you can call it a water and air cooling. As you would need both a water block and a separate heat sink in the same rig.
@@trystonkincannon8320 I mean, waterblock dont have heat pipes, the heat transfer directly from copper plate through micro fins which contact water. While this method with heat pipes can greatly increase water surface area.
The only issue you would have here is galvanic corrosion by having aluminum and copper in water. You would need inhibitors for anything longer then a couple of hours. Alternatively you could possibly use a full copper air cooler for better results and to avoid such issues
good thinking.
I try 👍
Or you could use mineral oil to avoid corrosion altogether
Saved me having to say the same. I worked at sea for 12 years. Big problem out there. We had zinc blocks fixed to the hull to act as a sacrificial material so the galvanic reaction ate the zinc rather than the hull.
I was think this the moment I saw the cooler. Mixed metals....maybe if you found an all copper cooler?
I like the simplicity of it. For those that are amazed that it works, if you ever take apart a "good water blocks" have micro fins milled into the plate. This experiment right here basically just made that portion of the water block bigger and exaggerated it. So simply, he made a really big water block.
Hey, the fact that Arctic commented on this vid is awesome. They have the Alpine 11, which is this big block of aluminum with fins for passive cooling. It'd be easy enough to make a water block out of it, without the possibility of leaks due to heatpipes expanding :)
If you actually think about it, this works about the same way as a CPU waterblock but with heatpipes. Most waterblocks have microchannels cut into them to allow more surface area for cooling, and that is exactly what the fins do on an air cooler. The heatpipes themselves have liquid in them as well, which evaporates up the pipes and gets wicked backed down after. So in summary, you made a scaled up waterblock that doesn't contact the CPU directly. Great video!