Super great video! This would’ve saved me so much heartache 6 years ago when I first started contracting… So listen up youngins because advice like this is normally charged
Much respect to you sir. Wish more contractors would help new contractors out by sharing their knowledge as you do. May god keep blessing you forever. This world needs more people like you.
@@Richierich42ooo thanks man. I really appreciate the kind words. Let me know if there’s anything you are curious about and if I can I’ll add my 2 cents. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractor 2 quick☝️ question brother. How long are you at the job sites after u get estimates? Is it possible to have a side job ? Thanks in advance :)
@@Richierich42ooo the amount of time it takes me to get all the numbers together to do an estimate, really depends on the size of job. I can do a standard three bedroom two bath double car garage drywall count in under 45 min. I do spend some extra time on the jobs too good look at the framing, and how difficult it will be to get drywall delivered and stocked. Since I’m a licensed contractor, very few of my projects turned out to be side jobs. When I was younger and had a full-time job, I used to do side jobs all the time. It just really depends on if the customer is flexible with the working hours that you would need to do as a side job. Some customers don’t want you there nights and weekends. Hopefully, I answered your questions right, and understood what you were asking correctly.
Yes definitely cheaper than your area. My area has gone up to roughly 1.75 now in my area, and I’ve heard of one guy that’s closer to your price now, so that great for my profit margins. I appreciate your comment and if you haven’t don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you I started my business a year ago only for weekend work I work for l&w so I deliver drywall everyday and know most hate butt joints but I mostly do mudding and tape but stone and shiplap to but I love people that shearing knowledge I appreciate it so much it helps so much
Nice brother , appreciate the tips . I don’t do much hanging as I like to stick to the finishing and painting. That don’t mean I can’t and won’t hang. When it comes up I seem to take forever trying to count sheets , the clicker tip was perfect .
It’s a big time saver. I can’t remember who pointed me in that direction, but I’ve been doing it that way since 2001. It helps me think measurements instead of thinking about counting. I’m glad it helps. Don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
I've been in construction my whole working life. Working for someone else's business. I recently bought a house and am remodeling it on the weekends. Soon to hopefully start my own contracting business. I love this video how you explain the breakdown of developing your estimate! Thanks for sharing! A lot of guys try to keep it a secret so that others will depend on working for them. Yes materials and labor cost differ by area but I'm finding that it is all estimated very similarly. I subscribed to your channel don't let the internet know it alls and haters run you off. I can tell you are a good guy and will be a wealth of knowledge to those of us who want to learn how to run our own business! Thanks again
Thanks Darby. Its nice to see the positive feedback for the type of person I hoped to help. I encourage to learn and save as much as you can so when you make the jump it’s a successful one. I learned the hard way and really wish I had the insight I have now. Thanks again, I appreciate it
Comping fuel to the tapers is a solid bonus on jobs that are way out of the normal AO. Long drive for a tiny job leaves no time to stack other job sites in the same day 2 cookie cutters for a finishing crew being almost 18k sq feet is a good cruzing pace if they are close enough to each other..
Great video man! Helpful for any drywaller out there. I haven’t yet branched into having guys yet, just owner operated. Would love to hear more about the management side of your business. Thank you again!
Thanks for putting out the info bud it’s really helpful. I’m starting my own thing in the coming year and have been looking for as much info as I can to make sure it’s successful from the jump. Keep up the good work 🤙🏼
You are very welcome. Just remember my prices may very different in your area. I’m sure your do great when you get going. Just do your best to learn from all your experiences, good and bad. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe
Thanks Jerry, I appreciate the kind words. I’m trying to spread my experiences with the hope to help others succeed. Thank you for watching, and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I didnt see where you added in for the cost of the finishing material, as in the tape and the mud. Actually its a good idea to do the estimate on a cost of material and cost of labor whenever possible. Even if only a comparison with a square foot charge. Especially with the current situation with fluctuating material costs.
Good catch, I don’t specifically separate out my drywall, mud and tape and stuff like that from my big line item on materials, however, it is all included in my material cost.
I’m glad you found value. Take a look at some of my other drywall videos, so are helpful and some are just meant to be entertaining. If you haven’t yet don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It really depends. If I have another job coming up in 30 days or so I’ll store it and put it in the next job. If I don’t have a job coming up soon to use it, and it’s still in good shape I can return it to my supplier and bay area 15% restocking fee. I also have friends in the area, so I will call them and see if they need any at a discount price. And some times it gets thrown away, but I do my best to avoid that. I hope that helps and thanks for the question. If you haven’t yet, please like and subscribe👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for sharing this video! I wanted to ask a couple of questions: How is it that you find work? Do you let your company be known to a home builder/construction company? If so, how do you make them know about your company?
Let me get my guys going this morning and Ill get back to you on that. I think I'll make a video to answer your question and give you a few of my ways of getting more business.
hi there thank you for sharing your way how to estimate a project. im a filipino drywaller and tapper here in British columbia canada. i would like to start to my own small business contructor here. thank you sir
You are welcome. In the US every state has different ways to becoming a contractor and from what I can see Canada is even more different and difficult, and they have a heavy penalty if you are caught working illegally. Here is a video that might help th-cam.com/video/84MaqQfqF1U/w-d-xo.html
Its not a prefect way of doing it, but it’s always helpful to see how other do stuff. You can learn and new trick or learn what not to do 🤣 Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
It’s pretty crazy out there right now. In 2005 in the larger cities I was 1.20 and doing well. But in the area I live in now it’s a lot smaller and there are a couple big drywall shops that seem to keep it pretty cheap. That one of many reasons I’m not a drywall contractor anymore. Thanks for watching and commenting. Don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey, great video. Estimating is such a difficult aspect of being a contractor. I just subscribed and can't wait to see more of your videos. it's 2am and I can't sleep because I'm worrying about my projects... How do you deal with that aspect?
Hey Jason, thanks for the kind words and I’m glad you found the video helpful. I agree estimating can be a real pain in the butt. Just keep after it. It does get easier once you find your groove and if you stay in one type of construction. Projects don’t often keep me up at night unless something really off is happening, like a customer has changed something or is refusing to cooperate with our payment schedule. The only thing I can really suggest is do your best to keep your personal life squared away with your family, and your faith. Thanks for the subscribe and the comment. Let me know if there’s anything else I can help you with.
@Thehelpfulcontractor Hey, on this particular job the flooring type has changed 3 times, ceiling types have changed 3 times, wall locations rearranged, new board had to be removed for more receptacles, lighting changed 4 times, kitchenette design changed 3 times...I've never experienced anything like it. I've worked multiple jobs for this client over tye last 6 years. they always pay but it is getting to me
@@Jason-zl7ek that’s a tough spot to be in. I would bring it up to the customers attention in a way that it shows your concerns for them, not your frustrations about it. For example, you could schedule a meeting with him and talk to them about your concerns over the budget, due to all the changes. You can order it any way you want, but just make sure they remember that wasted time is still chargeable time, when it’s the customers choice to change things in the middle. It’s up to you on how much you charge them.
To be honest Canada is a little confusing to me, but I found this number you can text Monday - Friday, 7:30am to 5:00pm and ask questions directly to them. 1-604-660-2421 I hope this helps and good luck with your new adventure! Don't forget to like and subscribe!!
LOL! I’ll have to watch it again and see what you’re talking about. I think you mean my “profit margin” but I’ll let you know. Thanks for watching and the comment/question. Don’t forget to subscribe
You’re very welcome, don’t forget to like and subscribe form more videos like this. Do you have any other areas that would interest you in the construction trades?
@@Thehelpfulcontractor I'm working on getting my state drywall license in fl so really I'm mostly just into drywall for now. But it would be really cool if you could go over the trouble areas drywall contractor's or subcontractors in general should look for in the actual contracts and dealing with the prime contractor or design professionals for change orders.
I’m in Oregon. As far as I know the full west coast uses 1/2” everywhere in residential with the exception of like a garage ceiling with living space above it and under stairs. Where you at?
@@Thehelpfulcontractor In WA right by you. It seems random to be honest, I do insurance work and it seems random you don't know what thickness of drywall you will need you just have to show up and see what the house has and match it lol.
@@MSeroga oh yes that’s definitely frustrating. If you’re working in house 15-20 years old then that’s a time line where 1/2” “ceiling board” started getting used, but not everywhere. Keep up the work man👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey man, no I don't live in Eugene but I do live about 45 min north of there. Most of my supplier have stores in Portland and Eugene. Are you a drywall contractor in Eugene?
Right now that’s the million dollar question. The market seems to be slowing down a little bit and lots of guys are looking for work, but don’t give up. Here’s a link to a video I made with some helpful tips on landing work. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the question, and let me know if there’s anything else I can help you with. th-cam.com/video/Gu2GvPg6iPo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kCMCmAlk1Cr2U-7X
Very carefully. This carts and get slippery. I’ve used drywall scraps or a 2x4 to block the wheels so the card doesn’t move around. 👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe
What about the extra money you need to charge because I’m sure you need to give the owner of the house or the builder an guaranty for at lease 3 months for any damage on your job ?
In Oregon we have a 1 year required workmanship warranty. It’s always a good idea to budget for that stuff. It’s even better when you do a good job and don’t have to go back very often. 😂🤘🏻
Hey Michael, I had to rewatch my video to see what you meant. But those numbers are the number of square feet in each piece of sheet rock I’m ordering. So I ordered 76 pieces of sheet rock and each piece of sheet rock was 48 ft.². And I ordered 45 sheets of sheet rock that are 54 ft.². When I’m doing my takeoff and my estimating, I do it per square foot of sheetrock I order. So when I order three or four different sizes of sheet rock, each size has a different square footage. Then I do the math. Let me know if you still have more questions about that. I appreciate the comment and don’t forget to like and subscribe. 👍🏻👍🏻
Not a big profit job. This was for a local contractor that was already upside down on his own personal house. This video was really about getting YOUR number down not trying to copy my number. Kinda a fill in the blank thing. So good eye for noticing the lack of a big profit job. Best of luck to you and thanks for the compliment and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
12'x18' ceiling drywall is hung. Want me to tape, mud, finish then texture ceiling. 8' ceiling height some inside corners are bad-ish. I've racked my brain. I figure estimate to be between 700-825 start to finish? Please help, Now if possible. Trying to get the work but not rob myself!!!
Hey Kyle, you got this man. You need to break it down a little and not worry about the size and sq ft of the job. Those kind of jobs you need to calculate how long you think it will take you and multiply it by the hourly rate you want to make, then add materials, and finally add 20% more for profit/overhead. If you can tape it and put your first coat on in one day, then a second coat (skim coat) on day two, then day three would be sand, touch up, mask and then texture and clean up. So 6 hours first day, 3 hours on day two and 8 on day three so 17 hours at 45.00 plus 60.00 in material. then 20% make it roughly $1000.00 This would be a perfect time to try and do hot mud on tape and double and then skim with AP on in one day. Save a day on the job??? Good luck man!
@Thehelpfulcontractor Yo! Thank you very much Sir! I was able to get a comfortable quote to them at 875-1k pending upon texture desired. I'm not a "pro", but I've put a fair share of work in! Also, staying lenient as I'll be taking care of the rest of the house, patch, sand, prep and paint and that's what I grew up with! Had a Purdy brush in hand at 4 years old so I'm solid on what I want to handle the rest of the home as it'll be weekend work to prep for getting ready to put it on the market. Appreciate your help and time!!!
@Thehelpfulcontractor SO! Now, she has asked me to bid the rest... Which is roughly 70sq.ft. to hang and finish along with a repair in a room on ceiling. It's gonna be a 3'×5' area I'll cut out and work back in then another room has an awkwardly shaped jut out in the wall where the chimney of sorts or exhaust goes up. It's hung, but the corner metal is rough looking, I'd rather pull it and re-do it. I'd be wasting more time floating it out from the wall each side vs just replace it. She also gave me their estimate sheet of cost. Now, I'm fairly certain I'll be doing all the other patch, prep, paint for the most of the rest of the house. We know each other, and I flat out told her I can obviously beat the contractors on overall cost all day, but they would have it done in a fraction of the time I can being 1 guy. So, thanx for the help on that and I've gotta write up the other 3 parts yet, but the 1 she sent me they are just shy of 5k and I'm going to be right about 4k with the hopes I've already locked the other. Appreciate it! !!
@@kylebainter8595 that’s great. Adding work to an already landed job is the easiest way to grow your business. I agree, if the metal is rough rip it down and start with a hood corner, you’ll be much happier. Nice job.
Quick question do you add touch up and repair in your bid as well or you charge separately for that ? This is the only part I’m having trouble at the moment.
I budget about two hours and $50 in material for a standard job for touch up and repair that is trade damage. On my estimate/proposal and contracts I make sure to add a description of what is included in trade damage. That wording is up to you and it might even change depending on the customer. For example trade damage is nicks, dents and scratches due to trade workers. If a patch is required than that will be billed out at $70 per hour plus materials. ALSO add that you are not financially or physically responsible for the paint touch up. Add details to your paperwork and make sure the customer reads it and signs a copy for you to keep. Ok with all that said, I have one customer that I have worked for for over 7 years and after the first couple years I stopped charging him extra for ANYTHING because he’s super cool and I barrow his tractors and he pays his bill FAST. So it’s ok to have different policies with different customers. Hope this helps.
Time and material .. Never offer up front to fix anything not damaged yet... Focus on finishing and when you walk away there is no touch up on your end... When the painter primes the walls if you did a good job finishing ... you are good to go... If a tradesman messes something up they call you back .. you give them a Time and material price .. get a signature and then start repairs ..
@@whirlwind8825 whatever you do, just make sure it’s spelled out in your formal estimate and contract. I appreciate the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe.
Hey buddy, that’s a tough question to answer with out knowing what kinda of texture your talking about. A light orange peel in my mind is the most affordable as long as you have a texture machine, but those aren’t cheap. If it a hand finished texture then it depends if it applied with a tool then hand troweled or if it’s put one like a sanded skip trowel. Anyway it could be as cheap as $0.15 per foot or as much as $1 per foot. Don’t forget if the texture hiss a lot, then save some money by not spending as much time touching up the taping work. Reply back with more details and we can figure out a closer cost. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe!!
@@Thehelpfulcontractor hey I have a spray rig and starting to bid just for texture for medium orange peel. I just wanted to get a figure on how much I should be charging. It’s takes me at most 1 hour for a 300 sheet house. This is just for spraying texture. No taping.
In oregon we are only required to to one layer 1/2” on walls and ceilings in garage unless there is living space above. Then it’s 5/8 as well as the ceiling under stairs. Because this job is a little more commercial we did use 5/8 just because. I think 5/8 fire wall is better than 1/2 but not required here Thanks for watching it don’t forget to subscribe
Yep, you got it, buddy. I’m down here in the mid Willamette valley of Oregon. Boy prices sure have changed in the last year since I made the video. Most of the locals finally started charging more
@@Thehelpfulcontractor Prices definitely have changed. I’ve been in the trade for 12 years and licensed on my own for 5. I’m always looking for little tips and tricks to help be more efficient. The click counter is a smart idea I ordered one after watching the video.
These prices are very low since 2019 things went way up that .30 was back in 2017 . As a Gc trying to profit should be at 2.00-2.50 a ft and that’s with primer included that way your making 20-30% and still pay guys more. Now as a sub they make 40-50. A sqft and of course you know it varies with heights and scaffolding being needed . Also save on the fire tape
I totally agree the prices in my area are crazy cheap and that the man reason I'm not a drywall only contractor. I'm a general that just happens to do some drywall work. This video is over a year old and since then I've raised my prices but the other guys don't seem to be. I've been under cut at least 6 times in the last 12 months. So I'll just enjoying the ones I do land.
Well, a year ago I didn’t have any problem finding guys at $.30 a foot. I’m a little bit more than that now but not quite to the numbers you’re quoting. I’m in Oregon.
Out of curiosity when the tapers come through to finish are they just running through the job or are they fixing bad framing ? Also how do you estimate how much mud boxes you need?
Hey Irv, I will typically do a walk through before the hangers start and ask the GC to fix any weird or bad framing. I also offer to fix it for an additional fee. The tapers will fix some bad spots in the hanging, but I don’t ask them to fix any framing waves. If a bad spot gets missed by framers, the Gc, me and the hangers, then I might float it out if the tapers don’t want to. But that very rare. Thanks for asking and don’t forget to subscribe 👍
@@Thehelpfulcontractor hey man thanks for responding I subscribed after watching the vid on how to estimate board count which is awesome. I am a taper and usually what I do is ask how much sheets have been hung and I go off of that. I have tried figuring out before it’s hung and what I was taught at first was just use the total square by footage of the house and multiply by 3 lol which ended up costing me to pay out of pocket to pay the other tapers helping me. But I am learning.
@@IM808HI good for you man!! Seriously, your store sounds like mine when I was breaking away from just being a taper. I think I did my first full project in 1997’s. I ordered the board and had a couple guy come hang it. Yep I lost money 😂. Keep it up, and keep learning 👍🏻
@@IM808HI break each job down to rooms... walk into each room or hallway or closet ..draw a square on a pad...mark the length and width of each room in that square . When you are done you will have a bunch of squares with LxW... in each box write the ceiling height ... That is all you need for a accurate take off... If patches or repairs = framing are needed in each box make a note and sub that note to the labeled box.. If you have large openings subtract it.. but leave a few extra feet for scrap ... So if a room is 16 by 16 you know thats 256 sq feet of ceiling divided by 48 (12 foot board) is 5.3 sheets or 32 (8 ft board) is 8 sheets on the dot .... Then your walls are 64 lineal feet times say 9 foot ceiling height =576 sq feet divided by 48 is 12 sheets ... ... as a finisher .. if that room has beadwork then that is extra ... then subtract for openings in drywall count .. Using this method you will never end up short .. if a room has 5.7 sheets round it to 6 and call the rest scrap .. Lastly count up all the bead so you do not end up quoting board count and you have a gazillion feet of beadwork .. Know how much compound you need ..pay attention to each job and see what a bucket covers for you ... same with fasteners for hanging ... know how many fasteners on each board for a quick count .. They cost also ... a bucket or box will tell you how many boards it finishes .. if it says 10 .. you count 8 .
Denver is like all major cities and has it own little economy and it could be wildly different from my location. You can still use my system but double check your material and labor costs. I’ve had many people say they are closer to 65 cents per foot for material and I’m still around 50 cents. Do your homework so you can make money 👍🏻
Hey Huck, I use 54" board for walls that are over 8' tall. I'm not a big fan of belly bands. If a wall is 8'6" tall then I'll get 1- 54" and 1 -48" or if its 9' ceilings I'll order 2 -54" boards, so I have one factory seam. 10' ceiling I go back to 48" boards and have a factory seam at the 2' line off the floor. In my area all the drywall supply houses carry 54" board. It's a little more expensive but worth is in my option. Thanks for the question and watching. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
Thank you for your service. My had is a “cool eagle” but not military related. I have too much respect for those that served to let you assume I did. Thanks for watching and the comment
Idk where you are?but drywall finishers always make more in New England . Way more . Minimum 2 coats and sanding for those that know how anyhow . Drywall 1 visit finishing 3 visits . I always make the homeowner pay for material and gas ⛽️.
I’m in oregon, so I’m sure our areas are very different. Don’t focus on my number, it’s my way of doing things is what I was showing and it’s not for everyone. Keep up the good work man👍🏻👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractor the more we make the more everyone makes in theory . 49 in the union 25-30 hr non - union they always lag behind union but there are some that pay close
Heres how I price a job. Add up total cost of materials and then ask myself, how much money do I need to make here to be happy and if there's an issue to come back and fix it. Then I take that number and add 15%.
First off your city has whicked cheap labour. Secondly , are you just ordering 12' sheets regardless? aren't some rooms better to just order 8'? what happens when you're in a house that has all different size rooms do you go crazy trying to be the most efficient with ordering board, or do you just let go and order bigger sheets mostly of one size. 8'8 room doesn't need 12' sheets for example, would you order them anyway for simplicity. thanks
Hey buddy thanks for the question and comment. Dude you are right, drywall is cheap around here and that’s why I don’t do lots of drywall anymore. Yes I almost always do 12’ board. The time it takes to do a few butt joints it’s worth it, from a tapers perspective. Also a good hanger can plan ahead and use the cut offs in the small areas like the closets and in the larger rooms where 12’ don’t get it all. If I was going a job where it was all 8’8” walls then I’d probably order 9’ board and not 12’. I hope that makes sense and don’t forget to like and subscribe!!
Yep I’ve done that a few time as well. But as I get older I try to add a few helpful devices to keep me on tract. It doesn’t always help though. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe!!!👍🏻
Great question. 20% on the material would put the materials at $0.60 per foot give it take a couple pennies and on that job the margins were pretty tight because I was already over the customers budget. Normally I’d say “not my problem” but this customer is a local septic and excavation contractor building his own personal house, so I chose to lower my profit down to help the guy out. I didn’t intend for my video to focus on the number as much as the how to get YOUR numbers because the trade are drastically different in different part of the US. My number are stupid low for a major market, but I’m one of the more expensive guys in my area. So just make sure you know your market and keep doing the best you can. Thanks for watching and commenting. Don’t forget to like and subscribe. 👍🏻👍🏻
2 Terrible Things about this video are this Good guy & this awesome Specialty trade known as drywall being negotiated for CENTS ON THE DOLLAR to do BUSINESS when I’m getting 85-105 a board to supply hang and finish here in ny. But eyyy you seam happy and doing good business.. A+
Hey Spackle Rat, thanks for the comment. Yes in my area drywall is still a very low paying specialty trade. However, in the last year and a half since that video was made prices are getting better. On the West Coast we don’t normally do prices per board, but if I do the conversion for board foot numbers, you’re about 25% more than me. I’m not sure what your labor rate is in your area or material cost, so that could be absorbed pretty fast. There is one drywall contractor in this area that only does one job a month and he charges three dollars a foot which would be 144 per 12’ sheet. At that price, he doesn’t have to do much work to make a good living. I’m not saying he’s right or wrong just saying.
@@Thehelpfulcontractor yess! For me it’s 105 per 8ft board! And I’m talking a 8ft plain Jain job with mabe one 10ft vault in the master but anything else price will be adjusted accordingly and they get charged! A average size house with 200 8ft boards I will get no less then 19k plus tax based off a 8ft plain Jain job of course and I will get in done in 2 -1/2 weeks sub out the hanging of 65-70 pieces for around $1300 Materials are around 4k and I spackle & finish the job my self and pocket around 13-15k! That’s my system! Here in NY I was down in Florida For a couple yrs and they hade me doing the exact same 8ft plain Jain job for not Evan 8400 +Texture
@@spacklerat3214Difference is the cost of living right? Messed up part is your ripping off your hangers, 1300 for 89 sheets? What about taxes? How do you pocket that much after taxes? You don’t pay?
No never rip on bottom, or belly slap that sucka in the top angle , you more than likely are going to be coating up to 1/3 of the rip anyway.. and I'm 6'5" and can split 12 foot butts from the floor and pick 9' angles from the floor as well so running a 10" box at up to 89" from the floor ( at that height I can palm the back of the box for extra pressure ) hurts me less than boxing a rip at mid shin or lower.. I mean the bastard at 51" ish is the normal compromise, but it uses more mud, and that means more sanding and potential for flaws..
That’s definitely a good perspective from the tall dude. Most of my hanging decisions are made with crack, avoidance, and ease of taping. I can definitely see where a 6’5” dude could desire different type of hanging than a 5’5” guy Thanks for commenting with your perspective, and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
You only make around 2 g’s for all this work and liability? This seems way too cheap to me. I really don’t know what I’m talking about, but it just feels that way lol. I live in a pretty expensive market and I think this job would have come in at at twice as much.
It’s not a very big job and the profit is about average. It’s not a home run job but it’s definitely worth the time. I’m going to do a follow up on the job now that it’s all done. Keep your eye out for the follow up and thanks for watching. Don’t forget to subscribe👍🏻
Hey Tristan. Is some parts of the US drywall prices are described in dollars per sheet and sometimes (like me) we break it down to how many board feet of drywall that is delivered to the job. On the west coast most drywall contractors will order there own and pay for the drywall independently from their customer. And depending on how difficult the job is the price per square foot can vary from $1.40 and above $2.00 per foot. And in my video I was break down how much per foot I was budgeting for the material and the labor. So in simple numbers if I ordered 100 sheets of 4x12 drywall that would be 4x12= 48 square fr per sheet. 48 sq ft x 100 sheet would be 4800 board feet of drywall. And then I’d budget $0.50 (50 cents) for the material on the job, and that cost would be $2400.00. Does that help at all? I made a follow up to that video that talks about the cost a little th-cam.com/video/ugrUxE1CGwU/w-d-xo.html
That’s awesome man! It’s great to get those high numbers and make the money. I ended up on that job being right around $1.65 when it was all done. Plus a few upgrades
@The Helpful Contractor thank you for your vid. I never thought about using a counter to count with! Or counting the plywood technique for the ceiling count.
It’s funny, because a month after posting that video a few of my GC friends said that the “local drywallers” have raised there prices. I’m sure it was a coincidence.
Yes kinda. I land the job, hire independent hangers and tapers and my crew does the prep, clean up and the finishing details like the texture. It’s the way most drywall companies work. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe
Plus he gets the phone calls and is responsible for everything.....the whole US runs business the same way You cannot just hire trade labor without supervision and expect it to go smooth...it wont
LOL! I know man. My area has two large drywall contractors that are always racing to the bottom. I’m a General Contractor that has a heavy drywall background but I only do a couple projects a years, and I’m the more money then they “other guys”, which is crazy. Glad you watched and thanks for the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe
1/2" sheetrock on the ceilings?? not 5/8"? You said my hangers and tapers, so basically you dont do any work except bid the job. These are the guys that the tapers and hangers eventually take all of the work from because $1,800 is his profit. If the taper/ hangers can figure his numbers and cut it by half the profit then dude will never be succesful on a bid again. Be careful who you sub it out to because they will steal your customers.
Hey Bryan, yes in my region we mostly use ultra-lite 1/2” drywall. It’s imbedded with more fibers and is rated for 24” OC ceiling. It’s so nice to hang. So with the comment “my hangers my tapers”, yes I do sub out those to phases of the job, but I also have my hourly employees hang and tape some of the smaller jobs. Yes those are definitely the biggest part of drywall but it’s definitely not all the work. We do the prep premask, the scrap out, post texture clean, mask and texture. We also hand trade damage and warranty work. You are definitely right about be careful who you show your secrets with, but obviously since I share most my “secrets” here on TH-cam I’m not to worried about it 🤣 Seriously I appreciate you watching and the comment. Don’t forget to like and subscribe, happy Thanksgiving.👍🏻👍🏻
@@cfg7523 every area is different. Heck go 60 mile in any direction and you’ll see a 50 cent difference. You do what’s good in your area. Keep it up man.
I’ll have to go look at the notes again to confirm that. I’m not sure what the average wage is for the sub-contractors is but my employees are between 20-28 per hour
@The Helpful Contractor thank you sir.. It seems like you are not making that money comparing to the amount of job you are doing. I was thinking about doing the same job as you are, so im trying to find as much info as possible on how to and how much to quote.
@@davoyan777 you’re smart for doing lots of market research and learning as much as you can before you jump in. Good luck to you buddy and feel free to ask any questions
@@leearnold0911 they all aren’t home runs. I’ll profit around 15% on that one. Make sure you understand that’s after overhead and expenses. My overhead it pretty low and these small drywall jobs we use as fill in for other work. Keep up on what your doing, it sounds like your doing it right
Super great video! This would’ve saved me so much heartache 6 years ago when I first started contracting… So listen up youngins because advice like this is normally charged
Thanks for the kind comment. It’s not the best way of doing it but it has worked well for me for years. 👍🏻👍🏻
Much respect to you sir. Wish more contractors would help new contractors out by sharing their knowledge as you do. May god keep blessing you forever. This world needs more people like you.
Thanks that means a lot. 👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractoryou are the best !
@@Richierich42ooo thanks man. I really appreciate the kind words.
Let me know if there’s anything you are curious about and if I can I’ll add my 2 cents. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractor 2 quick☝️ question brother. How long are you at the job sites after u get estimates? Is it possible to have a side job ? Thanks in advance :)
@@Richierich42ooo the amount of time it takes me to get all the numbers together to do an estimate, really depends on the size of job. I can do a standard three bedroom two bath double car garage drywall count in under 45 min. I do spend some extra time on the jobs too good look at the framing, and how difficult it will be to get drywall delivered and stocked.
Since I’m a licensed contractor, very few of my projects turned out to be side jobs. When I was younger and had a full-time job, I used to do side jobs all the time. It just really depends on if the customer is flexible with the working hours that you would need to do as a side job. Some customers don’t want you there nights and weekends.
Hopefully, I answered your questions right, and understood what you were asking correctly.
In eastern Ontario i would be be in the 2.25 per square ft for material in labour seems cheap but you have to know your market
Yes definitely cheaper than your area. My area has gone up to roughly 1.75 now in my area, and I’ve heard of one guy that’s closer to your price now, so that great for my profit margins. I appreciate your comment and if you haven’t don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you I started my business a year ago only for weekend work I work for l&w so I deliver drywall everyday and know most hate butt joints but I mostly do mudding and tape but stone and shiplap to but I love people that shearing knowledge I appreciate it so much it helps so much
That’s awesome! Keep up the hustle and the hard work. L&W is a good company to work for while you’re building your book of business.
Keep it up
Nice brother , appreciate the tips . I don’t do much hanging as I like to stick to the finishing and painting. That don’t mean I can’t and won’t hang. When it comes up I seem to take forever trying to count sheets , the clicker tip was perfect .
It’s a big time saver. I can’t remember who pointed me in that direction, but I’ve been doing it that way since 2001. It helps me think measurements instead of thinking about counting.
I’m glad it helps. Don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
I've been in construction my whole working life. Working for someone else's business. I recently bought a house and am remodeling it on the weekends. Soon to hopefully start my own contracting business. I love this video how you explain the breakdown of developing your estimate! Thanks for sharing! A lot of guys try to keep it a secret so that others will depend on working for them. Yes materials and labor cost differ by area but I'm finding that it is all estimated very similarly. I subscribed to your channel don't let the internet know it alls and haters run you off. I can tell you are a good guy and will be a wealth of knowledge to those of us who want to learn how to run our own business! Thanks again
Thanks Darby. Its nice to see the positive feedback for the type of person I hoped to help. I encourage to learn and save as much as you can so when you make the jump it’s a successful one. I learned the hard way and really wish I had the insight I have now. Thanks again, I appreciate it
@@Thehelpfulcontractor you just keep rolling out the videos to help me! 😜
@@darbyholloway1593 will do!!
Thank you helpful contractor for the info.Big help for me and more power
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to show us your system for estimating. Just what I was looking for, good luck to you friend.
No problem sludgegulper! Love the user name 🤪
Check out some of my other videos and don’t forget to like and subscribe ✌🏻
Comping fuel to the tapers is a solid bonus on jobs that are way out of the normal AO. Long drive for a tiny job leaves no time to stack other job sites in the same day 2 cookie cutters for a finishing crew being almost 18k sq feet is a good cruzing pace if they are close enough to each other..
Thanks buddy, I try to be good to the guys that work for me.
I appreciate the compliment, don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video man! Helpful for any drywaller out there. I haven’t yet branched into having guys yet, just owner operated. Would love to hear more about the management side of your business. Thank you again!
Thanks man. I'll work on that.
thanks sir
Your welcome. Feel free to ask questions, I love to help
@@Thehelpfulcontractorany follow up videos to this reply? Thanks
Thanks for putting out the info bud it’s really helpful. I’m starting my own thing in the coming year and have been looking for as much info as I can to make sure it’s successful from the jump. Keep up the good work 🤙🏼
You are very welcome. Just remember my prices may very different in your area. I’m sure your do great when you get going. Just do your best to learn from all your experiences, good and bad.
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe
Lots of really good advice here. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jerry, I appreciate the kind words. I’m trying to spread my experiences with the hope to help others succeed.
Thank you for watching, and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Well said and done sir ...l learned a few things today thx
That’s great, I’m glad you found it useful 👍🏻
I didnt see where you added in for the cost of the finishing material, as in the tape and the mud.
Actually its a good idea to do the estimate on a cost of material and cost of labor whenever possible.
Even if only a comparison with a square foot charge.
Especially with the current situation with fluctuating material costs.
Good catch, I don’t specifically separate out my drywall, mud and tape and stuff like that from my big line item on materials, however, it is all included in my material cost.
Incredibly helpful info thanks!
Thanks man. I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching, and don’t forget to like and subscribe. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This video really helps a lot . Thank you sir.
I’m glad you found value. Take a look at some of my other drywall videos, so are helpful and some are just meant to be entertaining.
If you haven’t yet don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Well done Spanky 👍🏼
LOL! I had to think about that one🤣
Thanks Jeff
what do you do if you order to much material
It really depends. If I have another job coming up in 30 days or so I’ll store it and put it in the next job. If I don’t have a job coming up soon to use it, and it’s still in good shape I can return it to my supplier and bay area 15% restocking fee. I also have friends in the area, so I will call them and see if they need any at a discount price. And some times it gets thrown away, but I do my best to avoid that. I hope that helps and thanks for the question. If you haven’t yet, please like and subscribe👍🏻👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractor thank you for the reply and that was helpful.
@@Harvey847 glad to help👍🏻👍🏻
brilliant. love it. thank you for your time.
Glad you got value from it.
Thank you for sharing this video! I wanted to ask a couple of questions: How is it that you find work? Do you let your company be known to a home builder/construction company? If so, how do you make them know about your company?
Let me get my guys going this morning and Ill get back to you on that. I think I'll make a video to answer your question and give you a few of my ways of getting more business.
What’s your name? Can I use your name in my next video or would you rather me use you youtube name?
@@Thehelpfulcontractor my name is John Zuniga, and thank you so much.
It’s not live yet but here’s the link
12 EASY ADVERTISING TIPS FOR CONTRACTORS, CHEAP and EFFECTIVE
th-cam.com/video/Gu2GvPg6iPo/w-d-xo.html
Nice Video bro, always learning something new
Glad you liked it and thanks for subscribing
Very informative! If I was a hanger or taper, I’d answer your call.
Keep on rockin 🤘
Thanks man! I appreciate the kinda words. And thanks for watching.
Don’t forget to subscribe
@@Thehelpfulcontractor I did subscribe. Thanks for the reminder
hi there thank you for sharing your way how to estimate a project. im a filipino drywaller and tapper here in British columbia canada. i would like to start to my own small business contructor here. thank you sir
You are welcome.
In the US every state has different ways to becoming a contractor and from what I can see Canada is even more different and difficult, and they have a heavy penalty if you are caught working illegally. Here is a video that might help th-cam.com/video/84MaqQfqF1U/w-d-xo.html
Interesting 🤔 Good Tip's, Well thought out 👍
Its not a prefect way of doing it, but it’s always helpful to see how other do stuff. You can learn and new trick or learn what not to do 🤣
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
These prices are about 15 to 20 years ago where I live. It's hard to get I finished job for less than 3.00 per.
It’s pretty crazy out there right now. In 2005 in the larger cities I was 1.20 and doing well. But in the area I live in now it’s a lot smaller and there are a couple big drywall shops that seem to keep it pretty cheap. That one of many reasons I’m not a drywall contractor anymore. Thanks for watching and commenting. Don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey, great video. Estimating is such a difficult aspect of being a contractor.
I just subscribed and can't wait to see more of your videos. it's 2am and I can't sleep because I'm worrying about my projects... How do you deal with that aspect?
Hey Jason, thanks for the kind words and I’m glad you found the video helpful. I agree estimating can be a real pain in the butt. Just keep after it. It does get easier once you find your groove and if you stay in one type of construction.
Projects don’t often keep me up at night unless something really off is happening, like a customer has changed something or is refusing to cooperate with our payment schedule. The only thing I can really suggest is do your best to keep your personal life squared away with your family, and your faith.
Thanks for the subscribe and the comment. Let me know if there’s anything else I can help you with.
@Thehelpfulcontractor Hey, on this particular job the flooring type has changed 3 times, ceiling types have changed 3 times, wall locations rearranged, new board had to be removed for more receptacles, lighting changed 4 times, kitchenette design changed 3 times...I've never experienced anything like it. I've worked multiple jobs for this client over tye last 6 years. they always pay but it is getting to me
@@Jason-zl7ek that’s a tough spot to be in. I would bring it up to the customers attention in a way that it shows your concerns for them, not your frustrations about it. For example, you could schedule a meeting with him and talk to them about your concerns over the budget, due to all the changes. You can order it any way you want, but just make sure they remember that wasted time is still chargeable time, when it’s the customers choice to change things in the middle. It’s up to you on how much you charge them.
Great points, have a good weekend brother
@@Jason-zl7ek you too
can you please share your idea on how to register my self as a small contructor business?
To be honest Canada is a little confusing to me, but I found this number you can text Monday - Friday, 7:30am to 5:00pm and ask questions directly to them. 1-604-660-2421
I hope this helps and good luck with your new adventure! Don't forget to like and subscribe!!
Could you go into further depth of how you got the 1835.18?
LOL! I’ll have to watch it again and see what you’re talking about. I think you mean my “profit margin” but I’ll let you know.
Thanks for watching and the comment/question. Don’t forget to subscribe
This video is super helpful! Thank you!
You’re very welcome, don’t forget to like and subscribe form more videos like this.
Do you have any other areas that would interest you in the construction trades?
@@Thehelpfulcontractor I'm working on getting my state drywall license in fl so really I'm mostly just into drywall for now. But it would be really cool if you could go over the trouble areas drywall contractor's or subcontractors in general should look for in the actual contracts and dealing with the prime contractor or design professionals for change orders.
Liked and subcribed!
I might put a video together on that, it’s a good idea. Thanks for the like and subscribe
Where are you located? Where I live all the lid and exterior walls are 5/8 drywall. Must be nice to use 1/2 for the lid :)
I’m in Oregon. As far as I know the full west coast uses 1/2” everywhere in residential with the exception of like a garage ceiling with living space above it and under stairs. Where you at?
@@Thehelpfulcontractor In WA right by you. It seems random to be honest, I do insurance work and it seems random you don't know what thickness of drywall you will need you just have to show up and see what the house has and match it lol.
@@MSeroga oh yes that’s definitely frustrating. If you’re working in house 15-20 years old then that’s a time line where 1/2” “ceiling board” started getting used, but not everywhere.
Keep up the work man👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the tips brother
You bet
Thank you for your video, very helpful.
Was wondering do you live in Eugene, Oregon? You just said almost every supply house in Eugene 🤣😂👍
Hey man, no I don't live in Eugene but I do live about 45 min north of there. Most of my supplier have stores in Portland and Eugene. Are you a drywall contractor in Eugene?
@@Thehelpfulcontractor hey boss moving to the the Salem area interested in the drywall business thank you for you’re advice
How would a sub go about finding contractors to work for? Thanks!
Right now that’s the million dollar question. The market seems to be slowing down a little bit and lots of guys are looking for work, but don’t give up.
Here’s a link to a video I made with some helpful tips on landing work. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the question, and let me know if there’s anything else I can help you with.
th-cam.com/video/Gu2GvPg6iPo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kCMCmAlk1Cr2U-7X
How do you load a drywall cart and on load by yourself
Very carefully. This carts and get slippery. I’ve used drywall scraps or a 2x4 to block the wheels so the card doesn’t move around. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe
What about the extra money you need to charge because I’m sure you need to give the owner of the house or the builder an guaranty for at lease 3 months for any damage on your job ?
In Oregon we have a 1 year required workmanship warranty. It’s always a good idea to budget for that stuff. It’s even better when you do a good job and don’t have to go back very often. 😂🤘🏻
How did you get the 48 ?
76 * 48
21* 48!
45 * 54
How did u come up with the numbers on the right ?
Hey Michael, I had to rewatch my video to see what you meant. But those numbers are the number of square feet in each piece of sheet rock I’m ordering. So I ordered 76 pieces of sheet rock and each piece of sheet rock was 48 ft.². And I ordered 45 sheets of sheet rock that are 54 ft.².
When I’m doing my takeoff and my estimating, I do it per square foot of sheetrock I order. So when I order three or four different sizes of sheet rock, each size has a different square footage. Then I do the math.
Let me know if you still have more questions about that. I appreciate the comment and don’t forget to like and subscribe. 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
So where the fix cost for your company profit for your company ?
Not a big profit job. This was for a local contractor that was already upside down on his own personal house. This video was really about getting YOUR number down not trying to copy my number. Kinda a fill in the blank thing. So good eye for noticing the lack of a big profit job. Best of luck to you and thanks for the compliment and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
12'x18' ceiling drywall is hung. Want me to tape, mud, finish then texture ceiling. 8' ceiling height some inside corners are bad-ish. I've racked my brain. I figure estimate to be between 700-825 start to finish? Please help, Now if possible. Trying to get the work but not rob myself!!!
Hey Kyle, you got this man. You need to break it down a little and not worry about the size and sq ft of the job. Those kind of jobs you need to calculate how long you think it will take you and multiply it by the hourly rate you want to make, then add materials, and finally add 20% more for profit/overhead.
If you can tape it and put your first coat on in one day, then a second coat (skim coat) on day two, then day three would be sand, touch up, mask and then texture and clean up. So 6 hours first day, 3 hours on day two and 8 on day three so 17 hours at 45.00 plus 60.00 in material. then 20% make it roughly $1000.00
This would be a perfect time to try and do hot mud on tape and double and then skim with AP on in one day. Save a day on the job??? Good luck man!
@Thehelpfulcontractor Yo! Thank you very much Sir! I was able to get a comfortable quote to them at 875-1k pending upon texture desired. I'm not a "pro", but I've put a fair share of work in! Also, staying lenient as I'll be taking care of the rest of the house, patch, sand, prep and paint and that's what I grew up with! Had a Purdy brush in hand at 4 years old so I'm solid on what I want to handle the rest of the home as it'll be weekend work to prep for getting ready to put it on the market. Appreciate your help and time!!!
@@kylebainter8595 I’m glad it helped👍🏻👍🏻
Don’t forget to like and subscribe🤪
@Thehelpfulcontractor SO! Now, she has asked me to bid the rest... Which is roughly 70sq.ft. to hang and finish along with a repair in a room on ceiling. It's gonna be a 3'×5' area I'll cut out and work back in then another room has an awkwardly shaped jut out in the wall where the chimney of sorts or exhaust goes up. It's hung, but the corner metal is rough looking, I'd rather pull it and re-do it. I'd be wasting more time floating it out from the wall each side vs just replace it. She also gave me their estimate sheet of cost. Now, I'm fairly certain I'll be doing all the other patch, prep, paint for the most of the rest of the house. We know each other, and I flat out told her I can obviously beat the contractors on overall cost all day, but they would have it done in a fraction of the time I can being 1 guy. So, thanx for the help on that and I've gotta write up the other 3 parts yet, but the 1 she sent me they are just shy of 5k and I'm going to be right about 4k with the hopes I've already locked the other. Appreciate it! !!
@@kylebainter8595 that’s great. Adding work to an already landed job is the easiest way to grow your business.
I agree, if the metal is rough rip it down and start with a hood corner, you’ll be much happier. Nice job.
Great video !
Thanks PNWGrown. I’m glad you enjoyed it. If tried make a similar video but I just can’t get it right so I haven’t posted it yet. Maybe soon I hope.
Quick question do you add touch up and repair in your bid as well or you charge separately for that ? This is the only part I’m having trouble at the moment.
I budget about two hours and $50 in material for a standard job for touch up and repair that is trade damage. On my estimate/proposal and contracts I make sure to add a description of what is included in trade damage. That wording is up to you and it might even change depending on the customer. For example trade damage is nicks, dents and scratches due to trade workers. If a patch is required than that will be billed out at $70 per hour plus materials. ALSO add that you are not financially or physically responsible for the paint touch up. Add details to your paperwork and make sure the customer reads it and signs a copy for you to keep.
Ok with all that said, I have one customer that I have worked for for over 7 years and after the first couple years I stopped charging him extra for ANYTHING because he’s super cool and I barrow his tractors and he pays his bill FAST. So it’s ok to have different policies with different customers.
Hope this helps.
Time and material .. Never offer up front to fix anything not damaged yet... Focus on finishing and when you walk away there is no touch up on your end... When the painter primes the walls if you did a good job finishing ... you are good to go... If a tradesman messes something up they call you back .. you give them a Time and material price .. get a signature and then start repairs ..
@@whirlwind8825 whatever you do, just make sure it’s spelled out in your formal estimate and contract. I appreciate the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe.
Hey man I have a question. What is fair sqrft price for just texture ?
Hey buddy, that’s a tough question to answer with out knowing what kinda of texture your talking about. A light orange peel in my mind is the most affordable as long as you have a texture machine, but those aren’t cheap. If it a hand finished texture then it depends if it applied with a tool then hand troweled or if it’s put one like a sanded skip trowel. Anyway it could be as cheap as $0.15 per foot or as much as $1 per foot. Don’t forget if the texture hiss a lot, then save some money by not spending as much time touching up the taping work. Reply back with more details and we can figure out a closer cost.
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe!!
@@Thehelpfulcontractor hey I have a spray rig and starting to bid just for texture for medium orange peel. I just wanted to get a figure on how much I should be charging. It’s takes me at most 1 hour for a 300 sheet house. This is just for spraying texture. No taping.
So 15 cents a ft would be good?
Great video bro! 👍🏿
Thanks man
It should be type X 5/8 rock between living n garage, double rocked on both sides by code.
In oregon we are only required to to one layer 1/2” on walls and ceilings in garage unless there is living space above. Then it’s 5/8 as well as the ceiling under stairs. Because this job is a little more commercial we did use 5/8 just because. I think 5/8 fire wall is better than 1/2 but not required here
Thanks for watching it don’t forget to subscribe
Codes vary by city and state bud
Douche bag! It’s different from state to state numb nuts!! 🔥
It’s a bardominioum. Home inside of a garage not a garage attached to a home.
Must be out of Oregon/Washington. I use Knez
Yep, you got it, buddy. I’m down here in the mid Willamette valley of Oregon.
Boy prices sure have changed in the last year since I made the video. Most of the locals finally started charging more
@@Thehelpfulcontractor Prices definitely have changed. I’ve been in the trade for 12 years and licensed on my own for 5. I’m always looking for little tips and tricks to help be more efficient. The click counter is a smart idea I ordered one after watching the video.
@@jharper631 that’s awesome.
These prices are very low since 2019 things went way up that .30 was back in 2017 . As a Gc trying to profit should be at 2.00-2.50 a ft and that’s with primer included that way your making 20-30% and still pay guys more. Now as a sub they make 40-50. A sqft and of course you know it varies with heights and scaffolding being needed . Also save on the fire tape
I totally agree the prices in my area are crazy cheap and that the man reason I'm not a drywall only contractor. I'm a general that just happens to do some drywall work. This video is over a year old and since then I've raised my prices but the other guys don't seem to be. I've been under cut at least 6 times in the last 12 months. So I'll just enjoying the ones I do land.
Great video thanks 😊
Thanks man! Glad you found value. Thanks watching!
.30 cent per square foot, in which province are u working. For taping, 45 to 50 cents is the minimum price
Well, a year ago I didn’t have any problem finding guys at $.30 a foot. I’m a little bit more than that now but not quite to the numbers you’re quoting. I’m in Oregon.
Out of curiosity when the tapers come through to finish are they just running through the job or are they fixing bad framing ? Also how do you estimate how much mud boxes you need?
Hey Irv, I will typically do a walk through before the hangers start and ask the GC to fix any weird or bad framing. I also offer to fix it for an additional fee. The tapers will fix some bad spots in the hanging, but I don’t ask them to fix any framing waves. If a bad spot gets missed by framers, the Gc, me and the hangers, then I might float it out if the tapers don’t want to. But that very rare. Thanks for asking and don’t forget to subscribe 👍
@@Thehelpfulcontractor hey man thanks for responding I subscribed after watching the vid on how to estimate board count which is awesome. I am a taper and usually what I do is ask how much sheets have been hung and I go off of that. I have tried figuring out before it’s hung and what I was taught at first was just use the total square by footage of the house and multiply by 3 lol which ended up costing me to pay out of pocket to pay the other tapers helping me. But I am learning.
@@IM808HI good for you man!! Seriously, your store sounds like mine when I was breaking away from just being a taper. I think I did my first full project in 1997’s. I ordered the board and had a couple guy come hang it. Yep I lost money 😂.
Keep it up, and keep learning 👍🏻
@@IM808HI break each job down to rooms... walk into each room or hallway or closet ..draw a square on a pad...mark the length and width of each room in that square . When you are done you will have a bunch of squares with LxW... in each box write the ceiling height ... That is all you need for a accurate take off... If patches or repairs = framing are needed in each box make a note and sub that note to the labeled box.. If you have large openings subtract it.. but leave a few extra feet for scrap ...
So if a room is 16 by 16 you know thats 256 sq feet of ceiling divided by 48 (12 foot board) is 5.3 sheets or 32 (8 ft board) is 8 sheets on the dot .... Then your walls are 64 lineal feet times say 9 foot ceiling height =576 sq feet divided by 48 is 12 sheets ... ... as a finisher .. if that room has beadwork then that is extra ... then subtract for openings in drywall count .. Using this method you will never end up short .. if a room has 5.7 sheets round it to 6 and call the rest scrap .. Lastly count up all the bead so you do not end up quoting board count and you have a gazillion feet of beadwork .. Know how much compound you need ..pay attention to each job and see what a bucket covers for you ... same with fasteners for hanging ... know how many fasteners on each board for a quick count .. They cost also ... a bucket or box will tell you how many boards it finishes .. if it says 10 .. you count 8 .
@@whirlwind8825great advice, thank you.
I'm located in Denver. is our pricing per SQ pretty similar or should i go off of my state?
Denver is like all major cities and has it own little economy and it could be wildly different from my location. You can still use my system but double check your material and labor costs. I’ve had many people say they are closer to 65 cents per foot for material and I’m still around 50 cents. Do your homework so you can make money 👍🏻
54" inch board? Where and why do you use that?
Hey Huck, I use 54" board for walls that are over 8' tall. I'm not a big fan of belly bands. If a wall is 8'6" tall then I'll get 1- 54" and 1 -48" or if its 9' ceilings I'll order 2 -54" boards, so I have one factory seam. 10' ceiling I go back to 48" boards and have a factory seam at the 2' line off the floor. In my area all the drywall supply houses carry 54" board. It's a little more expensive but worth is in my option.
Thanks for the question and watching. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
I never knew that was an option and l have been doing drywall my whole life, what a game changer,l have never seen 54.inch drywall boards
Like the 101 hat! all the way Airborne!
Thank you for your service. My had is a “cool eagle” but not military related. I have too much respect for those that served to let you assume I did. Thanks for watching and the comment
Guarantee this guys hands never get dirty...
LOL! I wish. It’s true they don’t get as dirty as they used too, but I still work in the field every now and then.
@@Thehelpfulcontractor lol
Great advice thx
Thanks Dorian.
Thank u!!
You are welcome, and I appreciate the comment. Don’t forget to like and subscribe!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Idk where you are?but drywall finishers always make more in New England . Way more . Minimum 2 coats and sanding for those that know how anyhow . Drywall 1 visit finishing 3 visits . I always make the homeowner pay for material and gas ⛽️.
I’m in oregon, so I’m sure our areas are very different. Don’t focus on my number, it’s my way of doing things is what I was showing and it’s not for everyone. Keep up the good work man👍🏻👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractor we push for everyone’s benefit
@@Thehelpfulcontractor the more we make the more everyone makes in theory . 49 in the union 25-30 hr non - union they always lag behind union but there are some that pay close
@@gerryhazelton9569 that’s awesome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Don’t forget to subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
Heres how I price a job.
Add up total cost of materials and then ask myself, how much money do I need to make here to be happy and if there's an issue to come back and fix it.
Then I take that number and add 15%.
Nice 👍🏻
First off your city has whicked cheap labour.
Secondly , are you just ordering 12' sheets regardless?
aren't some rooms better to just order 8'?
what happens when you're in a house that has all different size rooms do you go crazy trying to be the most efficient with ordering board, or do you just let go and order bigger sheets mostly of one size.
8'8 room doesn't need 12' sheets for example, would you order them anyway for simplicity. thanks
Hey buddy thanks for the question and comment.
Dude you are right, drywall is cheap around here and that’s why I don’t do lots of drywall anymore.
Yes I almost always do 12’ board. The time it takes to do a few butt joints it’s worth it, from a tapers perspective. Also a good hanger can plan ahead and use the cut offs in the small areas like the closets and in the larger rooms where 12’ don’t get it all.
If I was going a job where it was all 8’8” walls then I’d probably order 9’ board and not 12’.
I hope that makes sense and don’t forget to like and subscribe!!
Just curious where you are located?
mid valley Oregon
I just count in my head leaving off small closets always on 35+ yrs
Yep I’ve done that a few time as well. But as I get older I try to add a few helpful devices to keep me on tract. It doesn’t always help though.
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe!!!👍🏻
So you don’t charge any overhead where the 20% extra on material you don’t even making any profit
Great question. 20% on the material would put the materials at $0.60 per foot give it take a couple pennies and on that job the margins were pretty tight because I was already over the customers budget. Normally I’d say “not my problem” but this customer is a local septic and excavation contractor building his own personal house, so I chose to lower my profit down to help the guy out. I didn’t intend for my video to focus on the number as much as the how to get YOUR numbers because the trade are drastically different in different part of the US. My number are stupid low for a major market, but I’m one of the more expensive guys in my area. So just make sure you know your market and keep doing the best you can. Thanks for watching and commenting. Don’t forget to like and subscribe. 👍🏻👍🏻
Subscribed
Dude you’re awesome. Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
2 Terrible Things about this video are this Good guy & this awesome Specialty trade known as drywall being negotiated for CENTS ON THE DOLLAR to do BUSINESS when I’m getting 85-105 a board to supply hang and finish here in ny. But eyyy you seam happy and doing good business.. A+
Hey Spackle Rat, thanks for the comment. Yes in my area drywall is still a very low paying specialty trade. However, in the last year and a half since that video was made prices are getting better. On the West Coast we don’t normally do prices per board, but if I do the conversion for board foot numbers, you’re about 25% more than me. I’m not sure what your labor rate is in your area or material cost, so that could be absorbed pretty fast.
There is one drywall contractor in this area that only does one job a month and he charges three dollars a foot which would be 144 per 12’ sheet. At that price, he doesn’t have to do much work to make a good living. I’m not saying he’s right or wrong just saying.
@@Thehelpfulcontractor yess! For me it’s 105 per 8ft board! And I’m talking a 8ft plain Jain job with mabe one 10ft vault in the master but anything else price will be adjusted accordingly and they get charged! A average size house with 200 8ft boards I will get no less then 19k plus tax based off a 8ft plain Jain job of course and I will get in done in 2 -1/2 weeks sub out the hanging of 65-70 pieces for around $1300 Materials are around 4k and I spackle & finish the job my self and pocket around 13-15k! That’s my system! Here in NY I was down in Florida For a couple yrs and they hade me doing the exact same 8ft plain Jain job for not Evan 8400 +Texture
@@spacklerat3214that’s some pretty good money. Keep up the good work, man.👍🏻👍🏻
@@spacklerat3214Difference is the cost of living right? Messed up part is your ripping off your hangers, 1300 for 89 sheets? What about taxes? How do you pocket that much after taxes? You don’t pay?
@@spacklerat3214what do you mean by plus tax? 19k plus tax?
"Nailed it"
Thanks man 👍🏻👍🏻
You missed about 600 sf in your measurements, you had 21 sheets at only 69sf total on your list.
Yep good eye. Before I wrote the formal estimate I made that correction. Thanks for saving something 👍🏻
No never rip on bottom, or belly slap that sucka in the top angle , you more than likely are going to be coating up to 1/3 of the rip anyway.. and I'm 6'5" and can split 12 foot butts from the floor and pick 9' angles from the floor as well so running a 10" box at up to 89" from the floor ( at that height I can palm the back of the box for extra pressure ) hurts me less than boxing a rip at mid shin or lower.. I mean the bastard at 51" ish is the normal compromise, but it uses more mud, and that means more sanding and potential for flaws..
That’s definitely a good perspective from the tall dude. Most of my hanging decisions are made with crack, avoidance, and ease of taping. I can definitely see where a 6’5” dude could desire different type of hanging than a 5’5” guy
Thanks for commenting with your perspective, and don’t forget to like and subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
You only make around 2 g’s for all this work and liability? This seems way too cheap to me. I really don’t know what I’m talking about, but it just feels that way lol. I live in a pretty expensive market and I think this job would have come in at at twice as much.
It’s not a very big job and the profit is about average. It’s not a home run job but it’s definitely worth the time. I’m going to do a follow up on the job now that it’s all done.
Keep your eye out for the follow up and thanks for watching. Don’t forget to subscribe👍🏻
@@Thehelpfulcontractor thanks brother! Already subbed. Thanks for the awesome information! You live up to your name.
@@carlosraymundomartinezesq3396 thanks man. I really enjoy helping people 👍🏻
Nice
What do you mean what you say .50 cents and .30 cents sir
Hey Tristan. Is some parts of the US drywall prices are described in dollars per sheet and sometimes (like me) we break it down to how many board feet of drywall that is delivered to the job. On the west coast most drywall contractors will order there own and pay for the drywall independently from their customer. And depending on how difficult the job is the price per square foot can vary from $1.40 and above $2.00 per foot. And in my video I was break down how much per foot I was budgeting for the material and the labor. So in simple numbers if I ordered 100 sheets of 4x12 drywall that would be 4x12= 48 square fr per sheet. 48 sq ft x 100 sheet would be 4800 board feet of drywall. And then I’d budget $0.50 (50 cents) for the material on the job, and that cost would be $2400.00. Does that help at all? I made a follow up to that video that talks about the cost a little
th-cam.com/video/ugrUxE1CGwU/w-d-xo.html
" weirdos that don't know
boundaries" lol
Yeah it one of my fears about show a customers job.
Thanks for watching Sk J. Don’t forget to subscribe 👍🏻👍🏻
21x48= 1008 sq ft , don’t short your self bro
LOL! Thanks man
Shit I wish I was at .50/sqft for materials these days
I stocked another big house and I'm still right around $0.50 a board ft. 1-1-23 I'll be getting a 15% increase. Bummer
Man that's cheap compared to where I'm from. Your hired!
I lit has changed in the last couple years in my area. The prices have gone way up!
Hanging drywall is hard, you need to charge more
I agree👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe. I’m going to add a update video on that job once it’s all done
$1.25 per sqft to do everything?! I charge $1.20 just to finish! Materials included.
That’s awesome man! It’s great to get those high numbers and make the money. I ended up on that job being right around $1.65 when it was all done. Plus a few upgrades
@The Helpful Contractor not to much lower than what I charge to hang and finish with materials. $2 a sqft
@@nickrodriguez3541 nice. Sounds like some good money
@The Helpful Contractor thank you for your vid. I never thought about using a counter to count with! Or counting the plywood technique for the ceiling count.
So you you’d be making something like 10 K to finish this barndo , Damn bro that’s some serious coin
the camera movement actually gave me a headache
Yeah I’m not the best at the video stuff. Hope you made it through it
My area everyone is 2.00$ a sq ft or more except some illegals
It’s funny, because a month after posting that video a few of my GC friends said that the “local drywallers” have raised there prices. I’m sure it was a coincidence.
So you’re a middleman
Yes kinda. I land the job, hire independent hangers and tapers and my crew does the prep, clean up and the finishing details like the texture. It’s the way most drywall companies work.
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe
Plus he gets the phone calls and is responsible for everything.....the whole US runs business the same way
You cannot just hire trade labor without supervision and expect it to go smooth...it wont
@@kirkdunn1379 you nailed it. Thanks for chiming in. It always nice when someone with similar experience pipes in.
@@kirkdunn1379 you nailed it. Thanks for chiming in. It always nice when someone with similar experience pipes in.
And if there’s a GC on the job then that’s two middlemen. What a time to be alive.
This to sheep
Too cheap? Yes it was a budget job. Not what I’d suggest for the best profit margins. But I made money and the job turned out nice 👍🏻
You are cheap as hell ,, out here in the Bay Area California we charge $2.50-3.00 a sf
LOL! I know man. My area has two large drywall contractors that are always racing to the bottom. I’m a General Contractor that has a heavy drywall background but I only do a couple projects a years, and I’m the more money then they “other guys”, which is crazy.
Glad you watched and thanks for the feedback. Don’t forget to subscribe
Shiit that's too cheap !!! In nys I charge $60 a board that's spackle tape hang and nail!!
Yes it’s too cheap in a lot of areas 🤪. Don’t focus on my number, just put yours in the place of them. Keep up the hard work👍🏻👍🏻
1/2" sheetrock on the ceilings?? not 5/8"? You said my hangers and tapers, so basically you dont do any work except bid the job. These are the guys that the tapers and hangers eventually take all of the work from because $1,800 is his profit. If the taper/ hangers can figure his numbers and cut it by half the profit then dude will never be succesful on a bid again. Be careful who you sub it out to because they will steal your customers.
Hey Bryan, yes in my region we mostly use ultra-lite 1/2” drywall. It’s imbedded with more fibers and is rated for 24” OC ceiling. It’s so nice to hang.
So with the comment “my hangers my tapers”, yes I do sub out those to phases of the job, but I also have my hourly employees hang and tape some of the smaller jobs. Yes those are definitely the biggest part of drywall but it’s definitely not all the work. We do the prep premask, the scrap out, post texture clean, mask and texture. We also hand trade damage and warranty work. You are definitely right about be careful who you show your secrets with, but obviously since I share most my “secrets” here on TH-cam I’m not to worried about it 🤣
Seriously I appreciate you watching and the comment. Don’t forget to like and subscribe, happy Thanksgiving.👍🏻👍🏻
That’s cheap
Yes it was pretty cheap. Luckily prices have come up a lot over the last yr and half. Thanks for watching, don't forget like and subscribe!
Robbery
what do you mean?
This isn't the 80s, get with the inflated times. Hang an tape is over 1.00 square foot in my area. No materials out of that.
@@cfg7523 every area is different. Heck go 60 mile in any direction and you’ll see a 50 cent difference. You do what’s good in your area. Keep it up man.
Robbery lmfao I charge $60a board from start to finish!! Hang nail tape skim 2xcoats
@@EbkEbk-ok7ym $60 a board for 12’ is only 1.25 per foot. That’s not too crazy. We’ve got guys around here charging that. I just don’t👍🏻
So 13500 for this job. And your profit is almost 1900$? Did i understand that right? If yes, how much do you pay your workers appr?
I’ll have to go look at the notes again to confirm that. I’m not sure what the average wage is for the sub-contractors is but my employees are between 20-28 per hour
@The Helpful Contractor thank you sir..
It seems like you are not making that money comparing to the amount of job you are doing. I was thinking about doing the same job as you are, so im trying to find as much info as possible on how to and how much to quote.
@@davoyan777 you’re smart for doing lots of market research and learning as much as you can before you jump in. Good luck to you buddy and feel free to ask any questions
As a business owner myself, how in the world do you stay in business with that tiny of a margin? On a 13.5k job, you're only making $1800-$1900?
@@leearnold0911 they all aren’t home runs. I’ll profit around 15% on that one. Make sure you understand that’s after overhead and expenses. My overhead it pretty low and these small drywall jobs we use as fill in for other work. Keep up on what your doing, it sounds like your doing it right
Great video !
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it