I learned from a professional body guy that you can use a razor blade to scrape away any rust or flaking paint as well. The rubbing compound is a good idea though.
@@leesuschrist only thing you can remove with blades quickly is clear coat runners and high spots on blistering rust. You DO NOT ever go over good paint with it during the same pass as height removal as you will cut into it. I strongly advise against using blades near good paint and removing clear coat runners with them i advise you dont try that either unless you know exactly what you are doing. The bodyshop vids showing you them doing it is them showing off, they are good at painting and good at knowing angles which to hold even the blade, they wont tell you the full techniques and the prep involved in doing it properly in the vid because all they want to do is show you that they can do it. When i use blades on runners i know theres only a small window of opportunity to do it properly because you need to catch the paint while its in its late curing phase where when you cut into it it doesn't pull up off the coat under it and cause it to delaminate within a few winters and it doesn't pull the paint creating a disaster zone. Very hard for the average DIY guy to get this method correct. Just buy a cheap dremmel make the job easy guys👍
Do it the right way with a Dremel. It looked like there was still a little rust in that hole. If that’s the case it will definitely come right through the pain in no time.
Confused why theres so much hate in the comments. I dont think this was made for car enthusiasts, more just a cheap fix for a person who just owns a car 😂 i dont think everyone owns the things or has the money to do half the shit people are saying in the comments…
@@inferno5279Remove with a dremmel. If theres ANY pitting left at all you MUST chemically treat it or it will rot out again. Chemically treat the spots that need it then primer over that and the rest of it, sand back flat but when you do the final sanding passes widen the sanded area out so you scuff a larger area of clear coat off the original paint. Paint the coluor coat on in a "reverse blend" method. This means you start in the middle where the damage was and the first coat only covers that area. DO NOT go on heavy for blending, you just want to barely cover it each coat and likely you will still see some primer come through till the last coat. The last colour coat you want to go ovet the wider area so its all the same shade. It will be about 10mins flash off between coats and remember the colour coat doesnt need to be thick its merely to get the colour on there. Leave it 30+ mins to flash then you can clear coat it. Clear coat you want to go out wide to where you scuffed up the good paint and get a can of blender too so you dont get any paint lines from masking up. Do the "grip and go" method with the clear coat which means you do a light as possible tack coat, walk away for 5mins then come back and slap it on heavy so it flows. Soon as you see it go glossy walk away for 1-2mins then get back on it right as its flowed out and spray your blen agent where the lines or rough looking edges of your clear coat and it will flatten out lovely. If it needs another flow coat on it then let it completely cure then sand the entire cleared area back flat quickly with wet & dry 400 then red scuff pad and feather it out again another inch beyond the original job and do the grip and go method again so you get a nice flow coat. Once all is done you will likely still see the clear where ots blended but leave it 2week to fully harden then hit it with 3m perfect it (or similar) cutting paste on a polisher then use the lighter paste like 3m perfect it Ultra fine till its near perfect, then polish it with your usual polish or glaze compound. You wont likely get it perfect the first time beacuse people new tend to try and get a "final finish" with every coat and put far to much on will be orange peel and ridges everywhere. Remember go on light with the primer and colour coats and only the final clear coat lap should be medium/heavy. If you try to get it looking like a finished paintjob on the first coats you have already failed it will still seal your repair up but wont look great. If you want the nicest & toughest finish you can get from a rattle can then get the 2k spray cans where you need to activate the bottom of the can to release the hardener. 2k paints dry faster and are magnitudes tougher as well as usually nicer finish and easier to spray. Cheers
Put some 500 and 1000 grit sand paper on the rubber of a pen, with super-glue. Sand out all of the rust. You could make a hole a bit bigger but it will better if you remove all of the rust. Then do the primer and base color as shown in video. If base color is mixed with clear coat, you can sand it down a bit with 2000 grit and polish it to shine. If base color is just paint, put another layer of clear coat on top, sand after dried and polish it.
@@darkomtc Yes you can mix some touch up bases with clears but make sure its actual solvent based touch up pen. If it smells like it you are likely OK. However some touch ups now are all differnt types of paint, example is a touch up pen for an Isuzu DMax a customer showed me and he had done what you said mixed with clear and it turned the magna red purple on the car then the clear went brown. Turns out Isuzus genuine touch up paint in certain colours is some sort of waterbased glue type paint..Not an epoxy but a "hybrid" they call it. Its good paint but does not mix with Acrylics one bit. Which is suprising because ive even seen acrylic clear added to proper 2 pack hard epoxy infact the daddy of epoxies (west systems 105) and when its hardened it was solid enough to do the job and it never showed any signs of UV damage like epoxy usually does. I know cured epoxy loves a Clear coat but i never knew it would actually take it in the mixing phase and actually hold out strength wise. Im not entirely sure how much strength it lost but i can guarantee that it was still strong AF because we done a test piece next to it and gave it a hot supper to see if it held out and it laughed at us.
If you plan on keeping the car for a long time you should use a pencil eraser and wrap some sand paper around it, get to bare metal, prime, then paint and clear if applicable.
thx you for sharing your idea. I haven't thought of using a paint brush for a tiny rust spot. I was going to spray paint on the entire area which is not needed.
Just bought a car two days ago and I spotted a rust dot like this and my whole joy gone for a second cause I got worried if it will expand. Thanks for this video. Feeling some stress free.
Glad to see it's not just me that uses these methods, I tend to to use T Cut or T Cut scratch remover first as being less abrasive than rubbing compound. I agree with another comment here about grit paper on a pencil end, another method is some compound on the end of a Dremel felt cone, it all depends how long the chip has been rusting for.
needs dremmeled out full stop and with paper on it not a sponge cone filled with compound 😂 You need to get the junk metal out of there not tickle it up. Then needs chemically treated before priming.
You're gonna have a lot more to worry about than that little chip if you keep putting wd40 on your paint and rubber seals and if you don't get every little bit of rust off before painting smh. People, this is not how it's done, not even close.
Ahaha this is a hilarious way of fixing up the chip and totally what I was looking for. I think changing up the methods up a bit would be nice. Clean up the rust spot first. Use paint-on rust converter instead of buffing it out with Turtle wax. Cleaning it up with isopropyl alcohol again. Then using base coat primer (grey or black). Lastly, instead of using gunpla paint pen, I'll be ordering the touch-up paint for my FRS (D4S Raven Black). Seal it up with a clear coat and you're good to go.
@@yooper8778 you made it worse. Diamond polished your rust into the metal mate. Use only actual car sanding pads etc they are made of the material they are made of for a reason.
@@yooper8778 sorry for having to tell you that. See if its the grey tip dremmel bit for jewelery that i think it is? then you have basically introduced contaminants into the metals that are known to be worse biting than salt oxidisation. When you grind or polish another metal into a metal you automatically introducing a contaminant and furthermore the actual rust will have been at a molecular level entwined in the very most top oxidised parts so when you paint over it you are basically losing a lot of bond area as it wont stick to they bits. Im really sorry to have to tell you that but you messed up so bad its harder to do a worse job if you basically glued it up with superglue with dye the same colour as your car 🫤 sorry mate.
Let this be known to all who watch this video - this is NOT how you repair or clean out a rock chip - if any rust remains it will evolve and start to bubble with time.
bollocks. Its like a comment section full of what not to do. Im a spray painter your vinegar removes surface rust not pitted rust. Needs dremmel then rust convertor then painted.... properly
How fast can they progress i have 2 small dots in front of the roof and small on right wheels planing to fix it how long will it last until it start rusting
Rustoleum is just a primer. I used it to prevent rust. If you search 'touch-up paint' on Amazon you will see a lot of paint pen options. Hope that helps!
for paint pens you need to find the color code of your car. Search Your car's manufacturer color and type in paint code for it afterwards, and then go to amazon and look for a paint pen with that same code. Most paint pen manufacturers have a ton of different manufacturers colors, so you shouldnt have a problem finding the corrrect one
Idk where you get your info from but the guy on TH-cam using the compound didn't say it'll buff out the rust. It'll buff out faded paint is what he said and demonstrated.
You didn’t show the full name of whatever you used to get most of the rust off. It looks like it says “ compound “ as the last word, but you didn’t say the name either. At any rate it doesn’t seem to get all of the rust, and leaving any amount of rust behind is a huge mistake.
Its turtle wax heavy duty rubbing compound. About 1500grit they say. Terrible stuff for this application, as you have to dig all that dried gunk out of the chip hole before painting.
I'm just baffled why you would put this video up. It's idiotic. Didn't remove the rust and failed to even get the right paint color! Looks like a wad of gum stuck to the roof haha
I learned from a professional body guy that you can use a razor blade to scrape away any rust or flaking paint as well. The rubbing compound is a good idea though.
@@leesuschrist only thing you can remove with blades quickly is clear coat runners and high spots on blistering rust. You DO NOT ever go over good paint with it during the same pass as height removal as you will cut into it. I strongly advise against using blades near good paint and removing clear coat runners with them i advise you dont try that either unless you know exactly what you are doing. The bodyshop vids showing you them doing it is them showing off, they are good at painting and good at knowing angles which to hold even the blade, they wont tell you the full techniques and the prep involved in doing it properly in the vid because all they want to do is show you that they can do it. When i use blades on runners i know theres only a small window of opportunity to do it properly because you need to catch the paint while its in its late curing phase where when you cut into it it doesn't pull up off the coat under it and cause it to delaminate within a few winters and it doesn't pull the paint creating a disaster zone. Very hard for the average DIY guy to get this method correct. Just buy a cheap dremmel make the job easy guys👍
Do it the right way with a Dremel. It looked like there was still a little rust in that hole. If that’s the case it will definitely come right through the pain in no time.
My thoughts exactly
Doesn’t look like rust inside the hole, maybe some stained metal
Use a dremel, remove the rust then prime and finally finish with paint?
Confused why theres so much hate in the comments. I dont think this was made for car enthusiasts, more just a cheap fix for a person who just owns a car 😂 i dont think everyone owns the things or has the money to do half the shit people are saying in the comments…
@@inferno5279Remove with a dremmel. If theres ANY pitting left at all you MUST chemically treat it or it will rot out again. Chemically treat the spots that need it then primer over that and the rest of it, sand back flat but when you do the final sanding passes widen the sanded area out so you scuff a larger area of clear coat off the original paint. Paint the coluor coat on in a "reverse blend" method. This means you start in the middle where the damage was and the first coat only covers that area. DO NOT go on heavy for blending, you just want to barely cover it each coat and likely you will still see some primer come through till the last coat. The last colour coat you want to go ovet the wider area so its all the same shade. It will be about 10mins flash off between coats and remember the colour coat doesnt need to be thick its merely to get the colour on there. Leave it 30+ mins to flash then you can clear coat it. Clear coat you want to go out wide to where you scuffed up the good paint and get a can of blender too so you dont get any paint lines from masking up. Do the "grip and go" method with the clear coat which means you do a light as possible tack coat, walk away for 5mins then come back and slap it on heavy so it flows. Soon as you see it go glossy walk away for 1-2mins then get back on it right as its flowed out and spray your blen agent where the lines or rough looking edges of your clear coat and it will flatten out lovely. If it needs another flow coat on it then let it completely cure then sand the entire cleared area back flat quickly with wet & dry 400 then red scuff pad and feather it out again another inch beyond the original job and do the grip and go method again so you get a nice flow coat. Once all is done you will likely still see the clear where ots blended but leave it 2week to fully harden then hit it with 3m perfect it (or similar) cutting paste on a polisher then use the lighter paste like 3m perfect it Ultra fine till its near perfect, then polish it with your usual polish or glaze compound. You wont likely get it perfect the first time beacuse people new tend to try and get a "final finish" with every coat and put far to much on will be orange peel and ridges everywhere. Remember go on light with the primer and colour coats and only the final clear coat lap should be medium/heavy. If you try to get it looking like a finished paintjob on the first coats you have already failed it will still seal your repair up but wont look great. If you want the nicest & toughest finish you can get from a rattle can then get the 2k spray cans where you need to activate the bottom of the can to release the hardener. 2k paints dry faster and are magnitudes tougher as well as usually nicer finish and easier to spray. Cheers
Put some 500 and 1000 grit sand paper on the rubber of a pen, with super-glue. Sand out all of the rust. You could make a hole a bit bigger but it will better if you remove all of the rust. Then do the primer and base color as shown in video. If base color is mixed with clear coat, you can sand it down a bit with 2000 grit and polish it to shine. If base color is just paint, put another layer of clear coat on top, sand after dried and polish it.
Great advice, I'm gonna try this method! The damage on my car is pretty small
Great advice!
@@darkomtc Yes you can mix some touch up bases with clears but make sure its actual solvent based touch up pen. If it smells like it you are likely OK. However some touch ups now are all differnt types of paint, example is a touch up pen for an Isuzu DMax a customer showed me and he had done what you said mixed with clear and it turned the magna red purple on the car then the clear went brown. Turns out Isuzus genuine touch up paint in certain colours is some sort of waterbased glue type paint..Not an epoxy but a "hybrid" they call it. Its good paint but does not mix with Acrylics one bit. Which is suprising because ive even seen acrylic clear added to proper 2 pack hard epoxy infact the daddy of epoxies (west systems 105) and when its hardened it was solid enough to do the job and it never showed any signs of UV damage like epoxy usually does. I know cured epoxy loves a Clear coat but i never knew it would actually take it in the mixing phase and actually hold out strength wise. Im not entirely sure how much strength it lost but i can guarantee that it was still strong AF because we done a test piece next to it and gave it a hot supper to see if it held out and it laughed at us.
If you plan on keeping the car for a long time you should use a pencil eraser and wrap some sand paper around it, get to bare metal, prime, then paint and clear if applicable.
Thx!
What grit sand paper?
@@PrimePerspectivee 400 or 600
Thanks, I will do 👍
No.
Use a Dremel tool to remove the rust and apply a rust converter to the area before painting.
yip
This video, combined with the helpful comments, is fantastic.
thx you for sharing your idea. I haven't thought of using a paint brush for a tiny rust spot. I was going to spray paint on the entire area which is not needed.
Just bought a car two days ago and I spotted a rust dot like this and my whole joy gone for a second cause I got worried if it will expand. Thanks for this video. Feeling some stress free.
And be careful with the alcohol near a windshield - it can dissolve some adhesives leading to leaks
dont put black primer use grey or white thats why color looks darker
Glad to see it's not just me that uses these methods, I tend to to use T Cut or T Cut scratch remover first as being less abrasive than rubbing compound. I agree with another comment here about grit paper on a pencil end, another method is some compound on the end of a Dremel felt cone, it all depends how long the chip has been rusting for.
needs dremmeled out full stop and with paper on it not a sponge cone filled with compound 😂 You need to get the junk metal out of there not tickle it up. Then needs chemically treated before priming.
How is the repair holding up after the 2 year mark?
😂 whuda you think
You're gonna have a lot more to worry about than that little chip if you keep putting wd40 on your paint and rubber seals and if you don't get every little bit of rust off before painting smh. People, this is not how it's done, not even close.
yeah this is insulting tbh
He needed to sand and then use a rust converter followed by epoxy primer then he could base and clear the little area
What you could do in addition is add a clear..then wait a day and wet sand with 4000 grit and then apply with compound and then polish
How is the spot now and you can also use rust remover gel! It works great!
Nice video, thanks! However I find the comments section here very useful as well. Thanks for sharing, everyone!
1.heavy duty rubbing compound
2.iso propyl alcohol 91%
3.enamel/acrylic spray paint, tiny needle brush ( use a cotton box to prevent over spraying)
4.blue marker
I have this exact same issue. Thank you
That's very good for easy fixing small spot. Thanks, man 👍. I'm gonna do it to my car.
They make fiberglass pens to do this. Its 1000 times easier. This is a great what NOT TO DO video.
I used super glue on mine, is that okay
Ahaha this is a hilarious way of fixing up the chip and totally what I was looking for. I think changing up the methods up a bit would be nice.
Clean up the rust spot first.
Use paint-on rust converter instead of buffing it out with Turtle wax.
Cleaning it up with isopropyl alcohol again.
Then using base coat primer (grey or black).
Lastly, instead of using gunpla paint pen, I'll be ordering the touch-up paint for my FRS (D4S Raven Black).
Seal it up with a clear coat and you're good to go.
Sweet! Thx for the tip!
You won't be sealing anything up with clear unless you respray the whole roof
No clear coat?
Worked great but I had to use my wife's Dremel Tool with the diamond bit! Thanks!
@@yooper8778 you made it worse. Diamond polished your rust into the metal mate. Use only actual car sanding pads etc they are made of the material they are made of for a reason.
@@yooper8778 sorry for having to tell you that. See if its the grey tip dremmel bit for jewelery that i think it is? then you have basically introduced contaminants into the metals that are known to be worse biting than salt oxidisation. When you grind or polish another metal into a metal you automatically introducing a contaminant and furthermore the actual rust will have been at a molecular level entwined in the very most top oxidised parts so when you paint over it you are basically losing a lot of bond area as it wont stick to they bits. Im really sorry to have to tell you that but you messed up so bad its harder to do a worse job if you basically glued it up with superglue with dye the same colour as your car 🫤 sorry mate.
How is the paint now after 3 years? please answer or do a video so we can see If rust came back
Sold the car in Nov 2022, no rust then.
What about using very fine sand paper and sand it?
Let this be known to all who watch this video - this is NOT how you repair or clean out a rock chip - if any rust remains it will evolve and start to bubble with time.
If i were to scrape the area clean with a razor blade would that be enough then clean with alcohol before primer im about to do this in a hour or 2
WD 40 will accelerate rust , its a penetrating oil that penetrates metal
Hey Dean! Can you tell me which paint marker you used pls? I have the exact same colour car
Why not spray it with fallout /iron remover ?
I have some of that from Griot’s. I’ll give it a try. Thanks!
Vinegar and a cotton swab let it soak for half an hour and the rust will be disolved, wd40 will only make a oily mess
bollocks. Its like a comment section full of what not to do. Im a spray painter your vinegar removes surface rust not pitted rust. Needs dremmel then rust convertor then painted.... properly
Very nice video thanks for sharing
Naval Jelly is pretty legit for rust removal.
How fast can they progress i have 2 small dots in front of the roof and small on right wheels planing to fix it how long will it last until it start rusting
Hey Dean. Thanks for the great video! Watching it about 1 year since you made it. How is that spot since, did any rust come through?
no rust whatsoever
The rust is underneath believe that
Thanks you solved my problem
I have a black car. should I still use both the Rustoleum and a paint pen? Tell me more about the paint pen...where do you buy these?
Rustoleum is just a primer. I used it to prevent rust. If you search 'touch-up paint' on Amazon you will see a lot of paint pen options. Hope that helps!
for paint pens you need to find the color code of your car. Search Your car's manufacturer color and type in paint code for it afterwards, and then go to amazon and look for a paint pen with that same code. Most paint pen manufacturers have a ton of different manufacturers colors, so you shouldnt have a problem finding the corrrect one
Call the dealership give them the vin number of your car and they will give you the same exact color
You can get that at your car dealer..give them your cars vin number & pick one up. It’s not expensive.
@lin_leaf the paint code will be on the plaque, inside the passenger door frame
A 4 1/2 inch pneumatic DA sander with 40 grit will clean that right up.
Navel jelly would have taking most out and killed any rust from starting again.
Idk where you get your info from but the guy on TH-cam using the compound didn't say it'll buff out the rust. It'll buff out faded paint is what he said and demonstrated.
How to compound out surface chipped paint auto
Hey man any chance you can give us a list of links to all the stuff you used awesome video!
Good job 👏
I wonder if that is a Subaru thing? My Impreza has very similar rusty rock chips above the windshield.
My Hyundai has done the same thing!!
It's japanese paint. They excel at everything about cars, except paint.
My brand new Crosstrek I bought a year ago already has a rust spot. I’m beyond disappointed in the quality of Subarus.
That rust wasn't removed completely and will come back
Polish the rust out ok that’s is one of the silliest things I have heard in awhile!
You lost me at WD40
Love the tip hate the music in the background I'd rather just hear your voice. I know some people love it I guess I'm getting old
playing SABBATH sounds good lol
Always bloody music. It drives me nuts.
I didn't even hear it!!! Lol
You folks need to learn how to tune certain noises out.
Hey!! It works for me! 😁
Which sand paper to remove tiny rust layer?
You should wrap the roof!
That’s expensive for just a chip..
music is super distracting
Where can you buy the pen?
amazon
Was this made in China? Why the music.
Good video...thanks.
You left rust on the surface before covering up?! That doesn’t seem like a good way to prevent it from spreading…
The spray paint did say rust inhibitor I think
The video and the comments sections are really useful. Thanks everyone
The video don't make sense, the comments actually helps with what can be done
You didn’t show the full name of whatever you used to get most of the rust off. It looks like it says “ compound “ as the last word, but you didn’t say the name either.
At any rate it doesn’t seem to get all of the rust, and leaving any amount of rust behind is a huge mistake.
Its turtle wax heavy duty rubbing compound. About 1500grit they say. Terrible stuff for this application, as you have to dig all that dried gunk out of the chip hole before painting.
realy helpfull
It’s going to rust bubble. All you did was slow it down at most
if slow it down for 10 yrs I would say I am happy
Just use chipex, job done
What’s the song? Nice vid
This rust will be back again and its not worth it to just painting it like this. Even a small spot of rust will bring it all back.
Should have just used Rust-eeze
music tooooooo loud !
You're job is not worth for TH-cam. You did everything wrong. The scene is nice though the music was so annoying.
Bad music so gone
I'm just baffled why you would put this video up. It's idiotic. Didn't remove the rust and failed to even get the right paint color! Looks like a wad of gum stuck to the roof haha
The color is darker because he used a black primer🤷♂️😊
Looks terrible, whats a Caber box? I really enjoyed the internet music though.. Great job!
cat got your tongue?
Music loud. Why the fck do people add music to their videos smh 🤦🏾♂️
Because they can't dance or sing...padompdomp...
Dude. Lose. The. Music.
The music is WAAAY too loud. I'm not turning on your video to party, I want to actually hear what you're saying.
Sorry, no good result.
Ospho....
Thats a terrible job.
Why, did he not use the coat paint and just put the blue marker instead?
Tutto sto casino per fare un ritocco? Mah!!!
😋
Bloody music.
Horrible fix
What a better way was about to do this to my car
doing this before i trade in my car🫡🫡