Just wanted too thank you For these videos. I’m no mechanic by any means and they were gonna charge about 700$ too change it out, but with the help from You’re videos I was able to change it on my own after a few hours and a lot of swearing lol.
I am glad to hear you were able to do it yourself and save a ton of money with the help of my video. I do agree this job there is some swearing involved. Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty sure I have a leaf or something of the sort in the blower motor area, so I only need to take it apart to pull out the debris in there. What is the name of the long screwdriver bit you used to reach that screw so that I may look it up and buy myself?
Thank you for your videos. I didn't remove the accelerator or brake pedal. It was a nightmare to the the old one unconnected and the new connected. It needed a lot of patience. Your videos really helped, along with the service manual.
I am a professional, your video has an interesting short cut from the service thanks. My comment is mainly to whine about how absurd this repair is and to recommend anyone to leave the recirculation door closed when parked and keep the mice out.
very nice job on these videos, your right the top screw is tough but once you find its ok I used a 7mm socket with a 6"extenison.I took out passenger seat made ok to lay down. thanks for the good job
That is a good idea removing the passenger seat more work yes but could in the end save time and be more comfortable. If i do it again i will remember to try that 7mm with extension thanks for the tips. Thanks for watching.
Is this part different from the blend door actuator that clicks when it goes bad? Where is the blend door actuator? Is it easily removable if I remove the glove box? Thanks for the nice videos!
The Blend actuator i believe is part of the part i was trying to remove near the end of the video. You will need to remove the glove box for sure make it easier to remove and give you alot more room to move around.
You have the patience of a god. I tried this on my 2006 mazda 3, I could not believe how infuriating and convoluted they designed all these plastic pieces. I tried to do it from both sides but could not get my hand up there like that with the column in the way. When attempting to remove the whole dash, everything is interlocking and impossible to to take apart. Thats what happens when mazda teams up with ford I suppose. To save my sanity I stopped and put it back together and am going to pay someone $600 to replace a $35 part. Absolutely ridiculous!! This has made me decide to possibly sell my 3, such a garbage design and not user friendly. Its interesting that when they redesigned the second generation, they just kept it the same way, F. everyone who hates how this is placed in there. Shows they just don't care, and design obsolescence into your car at 100k to 150k miles.
I have a few questions. 1. My Mazda 3 2008 always had bad airflow on max AC fan speed. Compared to other cars max fan speed it’s a joke. But I don’t think it’s the resistor because all 4 fan settings change the speed and it doesn’t stay a single speed. Would replacing the blower motor and resistor make a big difference as opposed to the stock blower? 2. Why did you replace yours? Failure of part or same reason as me for question 1? 3. What replacement parts did you use? Did it improve fan speed significantly?
1. I assume it wont get better as resistor sets the voltage/ amps to control the speed of the fan. 2. The issue was with my brother in laws car and it was making a loud noise when the fan was on so bearing were going bad. 3. i replaced it with a rockauto.com part i beleive it was TYC there are other brands as well there but it was much cheaper then the factory fan. It didnt improve much air flow but fixed that noises as you turned the fan up higher. I hope this helps. Maybe another fan could give you better air flow all depends on the design on the fan blades. but i would assume most replaces one will come close to the factory design. Thanks for watching
So the hard part at the end of this video it looks like there are 3 screws that are holding that assembly on. I have completely removed all 3 screws and that assembly will not come out no matter what I do. It feels like there is something catching on the top side like there is another screw but you can’t see nor feel nor do anything to get it to remove. Feels like there is a step missing because I cannot get that part out. 2011 Mazda 3. My part is also not white plastic it’s black and looks a bit different. Any help?
Yes there should be a top screw. In part 2 of this series i was able to get it free with one hand i had the same issue i though i had all the screws and it did want to come out and there was one at the top that is very hard to see i think i had to use my cell phone in video or yo can take a picture to see in hard to see places. If you watch some of my other videos i show other steps that might give you more room to work along the process of removing the blower motor. I hope this helps you out.
The screw that is difficult to remove can be removed with a 9/32 nut driver instead of the Phillips head screw driver attachment; Allows you to get a better bite on it
I would suspect so, from information i am trying to find online. Some things might change slightly due to being a newer model and design. I would say if its not under or behind the glove box then they have kept the location in the same place. And the process would be very similar in removal and replacement. Now that being same i haven't personal dealt with the newer models and cant say for certain. That would be my guess.
Thank you, I appreciate the constructive feedback i will remember not to wear white as much in newer videos or ensure i have better lighting. It nice feedbacks like this that i can use to make better videos thanks.
TDL DIY thx. I did it finally yesterday. But there is a still problem with that cracking noise. I think I gotta go to the Mazda service station. Greetings.
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This was the best example of how to remove the glove box I could find anywhere. Thanks so much!
Thank you for the great comment. I am glad it helped you. Thank you for watching and supporting the channel
Just wanted too thank you
For these videos. I’m no mechanic by any means and they were gonna charge about 700$ too change it out, but with the help from
You’re videos I was able to change it on my own after a few hours and a lot of swearing lol.
I am glad to hear you were able to do it yourself and save a ton of money with the help of my video. I do agree this job there is some swearing involved.
Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty sure I have a leaf or something of the sort in the blower motor area, so I only need to take it apart to pull out the debris in there. What is the name of the long screwdriver bit you used to reach that screw so that I may look it up and buy myself?
Thank you for your videos. I didn't remove the accelerator or brake pedal. It was a nightmare to the the old one unconnected and the new connected. It needed a lot of patience. Your videos really helped, along with the service manual.
I am a professional, your video has an interesting short cut from the service thanks. My comment is mainly to whine about how absurd this repair is and to recommend anyone to leave the recirculation door closed when parked and keep the mice out.
very nice job on these videos, your right the top screw is tough but once you find its ok I used a 7mm socket with a 6"extenison.I took out passenger seat made ok to lay down. thanks for the good job
That is a good idea removing the passenger seat more work yes but could in the end save time and be more comfortable. If i do it again i will remember to try that 7mm with extension thanks for the tips. Thanks for watching.
Is this part different from the blend door actuator that clicks when it goes bad? Where is the blend door actuator? Is it easily removable if I remove the glove box? Thanks for the nice videos!
The Blend actuator i believe is part of the part i was trying to remove near the end of the video. You will need to remove the glove box for sure make it easier to remove and give you alot more room to move around.
You have the patience of a god. I tried this on my 2006 mazda 3, I could not believe how infuriating and convoluted they designed all these plastic pieces.
I tried to do it from both sides but could not get my hand up there like that with the column in the way.
When attempting to remove the whole dash, everything is interlocking and impossible to to take apart.
Thats what happens when mazda teams up with ford I suppose.
To save my sanity I stopped and put it back together and am going to pay someone $600 to replace a $35 part. Absolutely ridiculous!!
This has made me decide to possibly sell my 3, such a garbage design and not user friendly.
Its interesting that when they redesigned the second generation, they just kept it the same way, F. everyone who hates how this is placed in there.
Shows they just don't care, and design obsolescence into your car at 100k to 150k miles.
I have a few questions.
1. My Mazda 3 2008 always had bad airflow on max AC fan speed. Compared to other cars max fan speed it’s a joke. But I don’t think it’s the resistor because all 4 fan settings change the speed and it doesn’t stay a single speed. Would replacing the blower motor and resistor make a big difference as opposed to the stock blower?
2. Why did you replace yours? Failure of part or same reason as me for question 1?
3. What replacement parts did you use? Did it improve fan speed significantly?
1. I assume it wont get better as resistor sets the voltage/ amps to control the speed of the fan.
2. The issue was with my brother in laws car and it was making a loud noise when the fan was on so bearing were going bad.
3. i replaced it with a rockauto.com part i beleive it was TYC there are other brands as well there but it was much cheaper then the factory fan. It didnt improve much air flow but fixed that noises as you turned the fan up higher.
I hope this helps. Maybe another fan could give you better air flow all depends on the design on the fan blades. but i would assume most replaces one will come close to the factory design.
Thanks for watching
Seriously. SUPER helpful. THANK YOU!
Your very welcome. I am glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Can you show me how you got the back bot on the passenger side
thanks a lot for this, boyo. helps a lot. lemme tell you. try going through thr car wash in 100 degree heat without a fan.
i wouldn't recommend it.
So the hard part at the end of this video it looks like there are 3 screws that are holding that assembly on. I have completely removed all 3 screws and that assembly will not come out no matter what I do. It feels like there is something catching on the top side like there is another screw but you can’t see nor feel nor do anything to get it to remove. Feels like there is a step missing because I cannot get that part out. 2011 Mazda 3. My part is also not white plastic it’s black and looks a bit different. Any help?
Yes there should be a top screw. In part 2 of this series i was able to get it free with one hand i had the same issue i though i had all the screws and it did want to come out and there was one at the top that is very hard to see i think i had to use my cell phone in video or yo can take a picture to see in hard to see places. If you watch some of my other videos i show other steps that might give you more room to work along the process of removing the blower motor.
I hope this helps you out.
TDL DIY yeah there was one at the top. Somewhat in a difficult top. Thanks. Great video
@@PyroShenanigans Yes a very difficult spot. I am glad you liked the video and it was helpful.
The screw that is difficult to remove can be removed with a 9/32 nut driver instead of the Phillips head screw driver attachment; Allows you to get a better bite on it
Thanks for the tip. Anything that will make someone life easier is much added value.
Thanks for watching.
Mine keeps blowing the resistors instantly. Do you think its the blower motor?
Blower motor bad
Is this the same for mazda 2014-2018?
I would suspect so, from information i am trying to find online. Some things might change slightly due to being a newer model and design. I would say if its not under or behind the glove box then they have kept the location in the same place. And the process would be very similar in removal and replacement. Now that being same i haven't personal dealt with the newer models and cant say for certain. That would be my guess.
Creack kills thx for the vid
How many miles did this fail at?
Whoever approved this arrangement, well I have no kind words
Great video but your white sweatshirt washed out almost everything when you were in front of the camera.
Thank you, I appreciate the constructive feedback i will remember not to wear white as much in newer videos or ensure i have better lighting.
It nice feedbacks like this that i can use to make better videos thanks.
@@TDLDIY keep the videos coming. You have a new subscriber.
@@mikejones1141979 Awesome Thank you, will do.
Woulda been nice to have the camera on the other side....watching your back doesn't help any....
I am doing it right now. What a f.... piece of shit! The 3rd screw is still there wrrrrrr
Oh ya, Ya that 3rd screw is a bit of a pain. I do recommend using an extension from a ratchet set with the Philips #2 head works great for me.
TDL DIY thx. I did it finally yesterday. But there is a still problem with that cracking noise. I think I gotta go to the Mazda service station. Greetings.
Are you hearing the Cracking noise when you have the fan on? Did you put a new part in or a used part?