Just completed the job, 1.5 hours including gathering the tools, jacking, tire removal. NOTE: You do NOT have to touch the upper ball joint, there is plenty of room to twist and remove the strut. Also NOTE: The 3 nuts on top can be easily reached from above with extensions if you are having issues with the wrench from below. THANKS for this video that gave me the confidence to "get'r done".
Glad the video was useful to help with your replacement & thanks for the tips. You're not the only one who says the upper ball joint didn't need to be disconnected.
Didn't torque anything to spec those nuts on top are only supposed to be at 13 ftlbs and you went ham on them as well quite a bit of other nuts I would've liked to see them actually torqued correctly not just "good enough for the customer"
In all fairness you know how many times I've found bolts cross threaded and stripped from the factory as a GM tech? Headbolts, rod and main caps, timing components, intakes and transmissions all need proper torque on things like this it's not as critical.
Customers don't want to be upsold, people with 15 year old plus vehicles don't have a lot of money they do repairs as they can afford it, look the upper control arms are shot I doubt the ball joints are much better then you have tie rods, wheel bearings, brakes alignment and tires at many shops that could exceed the value of the truck, the explorer also has the 5R55W transmission not known for longevity. One thing at a time...
Just completed the job, 1.5 hours including gathering the tools, jacking, tire removal. NOTE: You do NOT have to touch the upper ball joint, there is plenty of room to twist and remove the strut. Also NOTE: The 3 nuts on top can be easily reached from above with extensions if you are having issues with the wrench from below. THANKS for this video that gave me the confidence to "get'r done".
Glad the video was useful to help with your replacement & thanks for the tips. You're not the only one who says the upper ball joint didn't need to be disconnected.
Thank you for watching.
Love those long ratchet wrenches. Make life easier.
Sure does. Thanks.
You don't need to disconnect the ball joint. There is enough room to get the strut out as it is. I only know this because I did it that way on mine.
Thanks for the tip!
only had 4 lug nuts?
Did you torque the ball joint nut and insert a new cotter pin?
Ball joint doesn't have a cotter pin, that's a lock nut.
@@timthemechanix all these shade trees missed the missing lug nut and worn out upper control arm.
nice video,,,what size bolt is that for the bottom large bolt at the bottom of the strut? what are the dimensions if u dont mind sharing
Didn't torque anything to spec those nuts on top are only supposed to be at 13 ftlbs and you went ham on them as well quite a bit of other nuts I would've liked to see them actually torqued correctly not just "good enough for the customer"
In all fairness you know how many times I've found bolts cross threaded and stripped from the factory as a GM tech?
Headbolts, rod and main caps, timing components, intakes and transmissions all need proper torque on things like this it's not as critical.
thanks
Also, forgot to mention --- What the heck is with those garbage tires... Unsafe and should not have be re-installed.
We agree with you! This vehicle was not fit to drive, it was just used for the video.
Customers don't want to be upsold, people with 15 year old plus vehicles don't have a lot of money they do repairs as they can afford it, look the upper control arms are shot I doubt the ball joints are much better then you have tie rods, wheel bearings, brakes alignment and tires at many shops that could exceed the value of the truck, the explorer also has the 5R55W transmission not known for longevity. One thing at a time...
0