Let's talk about Prusa MK4 Kit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- Prusa MK4 3D printer can be bought assembled or as a Kit. The kit requires more than 10 hours assembling time, but it is useful for those who wants to learn more about 3D printing. It is great bed slinger 3D printer, with fantastic print quality but much slower compared to new coreXY 3D printers presented on the market in the same price range.
Product page: www.prusa3d.com/product/origi...
Mentioned in the video:
Floating boat: www.printables.com/en/model/2...
0:00 Introduction
1:07 Specifications
2:44 Unboxing
3:45 Assembling
7:56 Calibration, FW update
9:22 Filament load
9:37 First print (Keychain)
10:55 Noise
11:38 About sheets
11:53 Benchy
13:32 Network settings
14:25 Spiral (vase) mode
14:58 Other sheets
16:00 Brittle PLA
17:26 Testing M600 (color change)
18:23 Bed leveling test
19:12 Kit or assembled?
20:18 About MK4 on the market
#prusa #prusamk4 #mk4 #3dprinting #3dprinter - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Pretty sure you can swap one of those metrics on the print screen for the z level, just in the settings, as those bottom status bar values are configurable in the menu.
Thank you! It is in: Settings / User interface / Footer
More than Welcome@@MyTechFun . I hope to get one of those myself come tax season. I have the Mini and the MK3s+ and both are just true workhorses.
got my kit a few days ago. it took 4 weeks to get delivered to germany.
build went absoluty smooth, and for me it's worth the money😎👍
thanks for sharing❤
Thank you for spending time producing this video. I will order mine probably on Black Friday.
Reliability is for me the main feature. Also I don’t like to send my prints to Chinese servers, actually not to any servers but my own.
For sure, Prusa has to do much more and faster in the future. But for me personally, I will buy a mk4 instead of supporting Chinese innovations if possible. If my 75 years old father wanted to buy a printer I would recommend him one of the Bambus. For me the mk4 is ok enough. A little bigger buildplate and a reliable MMu would be great.
It is said there are some issues with TPU.
I would love to see more videos from you solving problems with your mk4. Thx a lot. I really like your videos.
It is a very good video! Someone else probably mentioned it in the comments already, but you are missing the Input Shaper (IS) profiles in Prusa Slicer. The MK4 can print a lot faster. IS has a dramatic reduction in print time, especially when you have more or bigger items in the build plate.
Yes, bad timing for the video, I didn't noticed it was posted 5 days ago (I started the recording before that). I am testing it now. But I don't like that some functions are disabled, like crash detection. Probably I will just test it, but not use it in future. Could be too much long therm load for 3D printed parts.
9:23 You didnt have to go to Filament -> Load Filament. You can directly put in Filament. Then the Printer asks you which Type of Filament it is and loads it! :)
Thanks for sharing!
I've bought my upgrade kit and waiting for it
This was an amazing project. I finished that with my son in about 5hrs. We took our time, had a lot of fun. If your kid enjoys tech, that's great! (Just remember, we were 2 people working on that printer)
Great video as always 👍😃
The Z height you can make visible via the interface menu, where you can change whuch values are displayed in the footer of the display.
Yes, thx. Already got the help. For others: Settings / User interface / Footer.
Cool video Igor!
I agree with everything you said on the video. Its no doubt a great printer (that's a very nice benchy) but... I don't think it is worth 889€ for a kit. Especially for a hobbyist. In any case thank you for sharing your experience with us Igor, and hope your daughter gets well soon!
I’ve just built mine last week. Posted some shorts for now but I’ve not done a full video on it yet. I have mostly Raise3d pro plus and E2, a few formlabs, and a few mini+’s. Not had the mk2 or 3 so didn’t really know what to expect with the mk4, other than the reliability seen with my mini, which happens to break for the first time on the very day my mk4 was delivered!? Spooky I know 😮 to be honest, it’s failed a couple of times and the stringing is doing my head in. My nozzle already looks a year old after a few prints, and the bed size seems tiny for today, surely we could have got up to the 300mm mark 🤷🏽♂️ I’m not that impressed so far but I’m trusting in the community to eventually dial it in. I’m now thinking I could have probably done without this and made more use of the Bamboo carbon with AMS. But such is life. Just another one to the collection. Going to treat myself to the A1 Mini for Christmas I think first see what the system / software is really like before delving into the bigger units.
I received my first Prusa 3D printer right after the Prusa I3 MK3 was released. Best birthday gift ever! It was a kit and because I knew little beyond theory about 3D printing, this took me about 15 hours to assemble. That was one of the most enjoyable weekends I can remember! Recently I upgraded one of my MK3S+ to a MK4 via the kit. That literally starts with you stripping the entire 3D printer down to the frame, then starting the install from there. There is absolutely no better way to learn about what your computer does, how each component works and why things changed, than to do the upgrades yourself. It is the absolute best way to learn the details about these wonderful machines.
I urge anyone who is interested in purchasing a MK4 or upgrading an older Prusa printer to a MK4, to get the kit. It's worth it and will definitely help you understand all the tech better...
Snother excellent video Igor.
Having had many bedslingers and delta, I now have 2 cire x/y and Ai dint think Ill ever go back. Certainly at this price point it has no attractions at all.
Hi to your daughter, hope she is feeling better
Thank you, my daughter is fine. And yes, more and more I am using corexy printers (currently I am testing Qidi XMax3, its a beast).
Hey Igor, great video as always. As someone already mentioned, you can edit the lower bar that shows information to show live-z. Also, I don't think you've used the input shaper profile in prusa slicer, so maybe that's why it was kinda slow.
Yeah, an update video with input shaping would be interesting.
Great review and good detail as always. I have a Mk3S also and really like it, but the K1 is much faster (I have both). I like your reviews since you are either an engineer like me or you think like an engineer. Thanks for sharing.
I've managed to buy the KLP1 for 280€, There is also Flashforge Adventurer M5 for similar price but went with KLP1 because of klipper.
Mk4 is just overpriced... Nothing wrong with the machine, it's great quality, but maybe for 300-400€ tops.
A better tool to clean off the nozzle is a brass wire brush. It is recommended by Prusa and E3D. Using a tool that is harder than the brass nozzle (e.g. stainless steel tweezers) will cause damage to the nozzle over time. I've seen people use brillo pads and the abrasive side of a sponge to clean nozzles and it quickly destroys the flat machined surface on the nozzle that is crucial for quality printing.
Also, a brush is much faster at cleaning the nozzle and the heater block.
Thank it makes sense to 3D print tweezers ;-) On my workplace I have only 3D printed versions (from PETG and ABS), but even PETG can survive short touch with the nozzle for cleaning. I will print some from nylon too..
Thx for the video. Good point regarding brittle filament difficult to use on the corexy machines. I'd love to know what the extruder parts are made from? Ive printed all extruder parts for my Mk3S+ out of ASA. I drape two towels over the printer when printing ASA and get temps under the towel of up to 64 degrees C. All my PETG extruder parts warped. No problems now though.
For MK4 I am not sure, but I know that MK3 parts are all from PETG except fan shroud, it was from ASA, since higher temperature. I also had problems inside enclosure, but only with part which holds the PINDA probe. I reprinted all extruder parts from PCBlend CF (for MK3). I don't use any additional insulation, so my max temp inside is 50-52°C
Next up, Input Shaper! :)
I'm a little surprised the printed parts are not done in ABS given how much more rugged they would be versus PETG. As you mentioned using an enclosure, you may need to lift it up from the ground a bit to allow some airflow to the machine/machine electronics
There will be a separate video about enclosure. PSU must go outside (passive, no van in it). I will add small fan to mainboard box too from left side. PETG worked fine on my MK3, only the pinda probe holder I reprinted from PCblendCF since it deformed a little bit in 50-55°C
ABS isn't stronger than PETG, they are actually pretty similar in a lot of ways. PETG prints easier and has less toxic fumes.
I see two factors in the price of the Prusa. First is Prusa is an overgrown hobby, it isn't a lean or efficient operation and second the price of products such as 3d printers coming out of China are artificially low due to complicated factors (subsidies, currency manipulation, unfair trade practices etc). The combination of those doesn't look great for Prusa. With a better run company and a much better engineered product, it would be possible to build a great printer in Europe for a viable price.
The existing companies in this space in Europe such as Ultimaker and Prusa are hampered by their use of badly conceived designs that were not great a decade ago but are now unacceptable. This leads to the XL which Prusa somehow managed to make both badly delayed and rushed at the same time. They also continue to use out of date ideas like printed parts, the lack of a viable enclosure etc. I hate Bambu labs and would really like to see someone in the west offer a viable alternative but this isn't it.
Similar thoughts, I would like to see from Prusa an enclosed printer ready for ABS and similar filaments. Don't need to be fast, but not a bed slinger, since it requires bigger space in enclosure, this means more air to heat by that bed. To me, a cubic frame cartasian would be fine too (like Ender-5), just to have similar Prusa quality and less 3D printed parts (or at least from ABS, not PETG inside enclosure)
@@MyTechFun I see no reason a printer of this class couldn't use 100% metal parts. The production volume is enough they could be die cast aluminum or even just stamped sheet metal neither of which are expensive and are much faster and easier to scale up in volume than ugly 3d printed parts. I find it strange that a printer would be made from parts that look worse than anything I print on the same machine. And yes no need for corexy. Ultimaker, for all its issues at least uses a space efficient configuration that would be easy to enclose. that sort of configuration doesn't require high computing power, long complicated belts or anything like that. (it would just need to use a direct drive extruder, a sensible filament path, a full enclosure with active heating) I think much of the issue is that the market isn't big enough for serious companies to get involved. Brother or someone like that could build amazing printers for a very low cost and without the silliness of Banbu and the others.
Hello, with biggest respect of your content (absolutely high quality in my opinion!!) may I ask you this:
What ist you recommendation if I own a MK3s+: to buy the Upgrade-Kit to MK4 (or 3.5 or 3.9) or to Update for example to bambulab printer?
What would you say? What makes more sense? Who makes the better printer now?
Thanks a Lot, and keep up the good Work;) Cheers
BL is better, faster, advanced functions. MK4 has just few advantages: quieter, print quality is better (but 3x slower), can print with old brittle filaments too (they would break in the reverse bowden tube), great for very soft flex filaments too. About the upgrade, I cannot see too much sense if you don't upgrade the extruder too, but for that upgrade price you can almost buy a new printer (not Prusa)
@@MyTechFun Thanks a lot for that. Yes, I thinks you confirmed what I also thought :) Good thing is, there is no need to make a quick decission, means I will wait bit longer. Take care and thanks again
I had one on order, the wait was too much, got a Bambu and honestly, feel i did the right thing. This printer could be good, but way too expensive for what you get IMHO. Interested in what you think.
Thats what I mentioned at the end. Great printer, but should be cheaper, since they have a lot of competitors in that price range (like P1S, K1, Qidi..)
Think of it: you buy a printer for 5 years. If you spread the price difference over this life span it turns out that reliability is the most important factor.
the Printed Assembly Manual is optional now
I made some microscope photos today of Prusament PCCF filament. Please check my printables model 646037 that I posted there today. I love the filament for its mechanical properties, but seeing all those little needle scare me a lot. What are you thoughts, please?
By the way, Prusament PCCF prints perfectly on my Mk4. I use 285C, but and no part fan (which is default in PrusaSlicer).
I love it, its a brilliant filament in many ways. Though i never print stuff that I will use with my hands with that material, im slightly worried about the CF fibre stuff. Only for car parts etc
I know it can be printed on 285C, but I already measured the layer adhesion, it is much better on higher temperatures. There is a video about that too.
@@MyTechFun Coule be interesting with a quick test to see how they differ in that regard. Normally different printers/hotends can behave a bit different at the same set temperature, but with all the printers you have I guess you seen that before.
@@MyTechFun I know, I watched that video. But you yourself found out that turning of part cooling fan had a much higher impact on result than raising the temperature a bit more. For your layer adhesion test, you got these results:
285+fan=15.7kg
285+fan+annealed=21.6kg
295+fan off=57.8kg
285+fan off=51.2kg
I'm not going to be bothered by the difference of 6.6kg. And its probably less, since you can go to 290C.
@@MyTechFun And what are ypur thoughts on the microscope photos, seeing all the little needles? Doesnt that worry you?
Wow they started to cheap out on the 1 kg spool
There is no any advantage tbh I got the MK3.9 upgrade as a compensation for the delay of my MK3.5 upgrade. I don’t see any difference from the MK3S+ specially that I have a bondtech LGX in my MK3S+. And it really bothers me that it doesn’t boring at 300C because most of my prints are PC-CF and PA.
the fact that you can buy non ams Bambu Lab X1 Carbon for the prebuilt mk4 is insane. I'd have considerd mk4 if the prebuilt price was in line with the P1S but at this price range im sorry but bambu lab has no competition and don't get me wrong it is actually bad.
Prusa did not have competition for years, they were enjoying the throne and look what happened. If they had a solid competition in the past, we would have had muuuuch different MK4 that this plastic bed slinger.
The speed and touch screen gimmicks never get the sale for me. Prusa is the the most reliable 3D period.. And that will sale me every time.. My car is reliable, my wife is reliable I need my printer to be reliable..
Similar price to a p1s, i would definitely go with the mk4. Made in Europe by a European company(which i gladly pay some extra for), with a good track record and support when i needed it. With the new input shaper it seems roughly similar in speed aswell, how come you didnt try it? The 2.7 slicer with compression of the gcode is supposed to speed up the wireless transfer aswell quite significantly. I enjoyed building my mk3s with my kid, ill gladly do it again :)
Unfortunately, Prusa is slowly but surely losing the "battle" with competition. Don't get me wrong, MK4 is a great printer with good quality, but 1k€ for a fully assembled printer without touchscreen, enclosure, with slow printing speed in 2023 is not what you would want to buy.
Also their support was great before (have some experience with MK3), but now they are also struggling (just look at the two latest videos from Teaching Tech). Also their products are delivered with poor quality control (also Teaching Tech video) and also you can see this in Igor's video (screw placement issue, self check couldnt pass).
Sadly, if prusa doesn't release a corexy printer in the few upcoming months, they will be in a big trouble.
I agree with both comments here. Bed slingers still have their market (and this is a good one), but not for this price. I just had 2.6.1 PrusaSlicer, soon I will upgrade to 2.7.
@@molnyi5 tested a few weeks ago And that worked well, bur maybe they cant keep up with the newly released printers. Check out for example thomas sanladerers test of the input shaper firmware, its not slow anymore, that is fast enough for me, i really hoped Igor would expand that testing here, but it could be for a follow up video maybe. Layer adhesion seems not to be great on super fast printers though, i would like to evaluate that more myself some day. I don't care about touch screens and such, more about printing reliability and I don't want to tune anything, just print. Only thing I wish they did was making it bigger, maybe 30x30 to make a bigger difference from the mk3, but might be to tough for the slinger setup, its already pretty hectic with the input shaper speeds.
@@garagecedric Layer adhesion on those "faster" machines is always related to PEI sheets provided... On some it works flawlessly, on some you need to apply glue / spray to hold better (I personally have no trouble with spraying the PEI sheet for better adhesion).
Problem is that market became so competitive (for example, you can get K1 for around 350€ now) that features like enclosure is expected from 500-600€ and up. It's not that you don't need it and that you don't need touch screen, it's more that this has became a standard for that price range. We can do the comparison with cars. You expect your car to have LED lights when it costs 30k€, you dont want regular "bulbs" in it?
30x30 is hard, I have artillery sidewinder x2 and wobble on "taller" prints is pretty bad... Had to make some mods to make it really stable.
Personally I dont think input shaper is good for bed slingers, but we will see how it will behave over time.
Bambu TOP, prusa is old 🐂💩
€889 for the privilege of cutting a key part with a knife to make the z-axis fit? 🤔
that is a critical point, even highlighted in the builders guide...
need no cutting, just a bit time laying cables right under the cover.
You complain about the price. Well, Prusa is a company which has to fulfill the laws of the European Union. Chinese workers would be very happy, if they could benefit from these standards. I want to support that.
Talking about service: Prusa offers excellent instructions in almost all common languages. They even offer a 24/7 chat for troubleshooting. This must be paid.
Last point: Prusa printers a sustainable. Instead of buying a complete MK4 you could have bought one of the upgrade kits. I don’t think, that any other company offers that.
I am German and I benefit from a good income and a lot of social security. I feel responsible to support companies, that spend money in those skills. I don’t want to exploit people just to save some money.
I've made this argument a lot, so hopefully I'm getting better at getting my point across, but in essence, here is my somewhat hot take:
Kit 3d printers don't teach you anything of worth, and unless they come at a significant reduction in price vs other printers in your budget, give you some benefit in modularity that you will actually use, or you simply enjoy kits like lego etc, they simply are not worth your time.
I realize that is a bold opinion, and I will need to explain myself.
Let's start off with what building a kit printer teaches you. In my opinion? Nothing that a 10 minute youtube video wouldn't teach you. FFF 3d printers are ultimately not all that complex when it comes to understanding how they work. An extruder pushes filament through a hotend in a controlled manner, and motors move that hotend relative to the bed in a controlled manner. This allows the printer to follow gcode from a slicer which creates instructions for how to build 3d objects using your CNC additive machine. Outside of those 2 sentences, what do you learn from a kit?
You might learn about how your specific printer is constructed in some areas, but.... is that useful knowledge? Where would that ever benefit you? When you put another of exactly the same model together? For replacement parts?? Well the first of these 2 is obviously silly, so lets talk about the second one. How often is it, that printers break in such comically full coverage ways that more than even a sliver of the knowledge gained from putting together the kit is useful? Almost never right? Your printer simply wont disassemble itself unless its the scrappiest of used ender 3s. As such, it makes much more sense to simply learn to fix whichever specific part breaks at the time that it breaks, as that way, you don't waste your time learning things you will never find useful. We have a limited amount of time and limited amount of working and medium to long term memory, so why cram it with useless knowledge?
Ok you say, you plan to build your own printer, so this will give you useful knowledge in that department surely. Will it? Will it really? Because while I havent designed my own printer end to end, I have done enough significant modification to feel very confident in saying that building a kit teaches you none of the skills necessary to design your own printer.
What you need to design your own printer is knowledge of CAD, and a base level knowledge of electronics. Neither of those things are taught to you in any capacity with a kit as kits specifically abstract the electronics components away for you.
You don't really have any idea what plugging motor cable x into driver slot b means, you just do it because it is what the guide says to do. For that to have been useful knowledge, you would need to know that actually this is really connecting the 2 main coils of the motor to a stepper drivers output ports, and that this stepper driver derives its motor driving power from the internal 24v rail. Obviously it goes further than that too, but hopefully my point by now is pretty clear: I just don't actually think you learn anything that is materially useful to designing your own printer from building a kit.
Ok then you might say, who cares? Why does it matter that you don't learn much?
Your time matters is my answer. Your free time matters, and unless as I said above you specifically find following along with kits cathartic, you could be doing much more satisfying and worthwhile activities with that time. For instance, the 10 hours spent building this printer, on a printer that was preassembled could have you learning CAD, which will help you develop your creativity materially and give you another toolbox to solve problems in the world, or even another canvas to express your art if that is your thing as well.
My point is: I think this whole idea that kit printers are somehow better for educational purposes, is one of those ideas that sounds true on the surface, but when investigated in detail and with nuance, doesn't really hold up as a theory.
Thank you for attending my Ted Talk.
Well that’s 5 minutes of my time I’ll never get back. You realize that your way of learning may not be how other people learn right? I find it very useful to study how a kit goes together and actually enjoy building printers.
@@renepost452 You clearly did not read my comment (nor would it take 5 minutes to read, which you would have known if you actually read it) if you think that this is at all about learning styles.
I literally address what could be learned and do not even talk about the style of learning being an issue, so your comment is completely irrelevant to any of the points I made.
Furthermore, I specifically exclude people who simply enjoy following along with kits and specify that my point applies to people who saying building a kit is a worthwhile way to learn about 3d printers.
Wow dude I agree with you but you clearly need to value your time even more. TLDR the whole thing...
@@Anonymous-qx5uk If you think this took an excessive amount of time to write or read, and also arent for some reason able to grasp summaries, thats a you problem.
I mean, you even said you got the point so your comment isnt even internally consistent.
I hope you loved how much time you put into this book, but I wanted to let you know I didn’t read past the first 2 sentences