I would go back and put threadlock into the main bearing retention screws in the portal boxes... In my TRX-4 with the Aluminum portals I also thought it would not matter? They still came undone after a few packs even with a dab of threadlock… I recently re-do them with more threadlock so they will stay in place.
more than likely I'll be threadlocking them, I just didn't want to mess them up with stuff that's too strong for the tiny bolts. They use a 1.5mm hex wrench and those aren't very strong
@@ExocagedRC Medium threadlock is enough just go wild with it… I usually put a small dot on the tip of the bolt but those suckers do require full thread covering, I guess the metal gears on the portals create too much vibration... With my Axial EXO with metal diffs I used those tiny 1.5mm bolts completely stuffed with medium threadlock with no issues.
if you brace the panhard bar mount to the upper link mount you wont put any stress on that tiny screw also the serevo mount will rip those scews out of that housing those tiny screws arent ment to hold any kind of load thats just asking for problems
I have notice that you cannot use aftermarket brass outer portal housings with these aluminum housings, as the stock plastic has an angled edge that the aftermarket parts match. The Redcat Gen8 aluminum portal housings have a "flat" or "straight" mating edge. It appears you could carefully grind the inner aluminum housing upper edge at the same angle as stock in order to use the aftermarket outer brass housings. I have both the Treal and Hot Racing brand brass outer housings, neither work as they both match the stock plastic angled housings.
bobzilla9p0 there is one guy in the Redcat gen8 Facebook group that puts the brass covers on a milling machine and makes them fit. That’s the only way to make them work together that I know of.
Thanks for doing this video I'm doing a gen8 pack build and have been upgrading it I just did the brass portal cover and after watching your video I just ordered the aluminum knuckles. Found them on RC Planet 40.58 shipped using there 20% off coupons thanks again.👍
That’s a great price. One guy mentioned in the comments that to use the brass cover you’ll have to mod the knuckles a tiny bit, you may want to look through and see what he says about it.
I saw that thanks . I also did a steering mod that I don't believe anybody else is doing I installed the servo horn backwards and used axial 45ﾟ links so it's now positioned behind the servo instead of in front with plenty of clearance and 0 bump steer If you have a email I'll send you some pics
Just something I do instead of "weak" threadlock, I use clear nail polish instead. It holds very well, is durable in water & weather & is easy to break free when/if you need further repairs. I'm a bit late viewing this video but only because I've saved enough to get a Gen 8 Scout of my own.
@@ExocagedRC I looked it up and the brass would be twice the price for me, not counting shipping. So I will be going aluminum because of cost, not comp truck, OEM parts.
as far as the skid plate goes there is a nice metal one on ebay for about $10 thats better than the plastic printed parts. So I'd recommend getting that and we can work a deal on the nice piece which is a CNC Engraved piece I can make with info you need on it. As far as the stabalizer goes yeah I'm sure I can make a few of them but they are very simple and I have a video on how to make them.
Nice vídeo. Will be good to see How you install the servo on the axle at gen7. I have the Gen7 with portal , but the CMS is creating a Lot of stering bump..
its a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut and bent and I used some servo tabs from something else I had laying around and got it to fit. I've asked several people to make diff covers with servo mounts built in but they don't want to do it.
@@stpbasss3773 yes the portal kit have all the stuff to mount the servo at the chassis... but it creates a lot of bump steer, and also the panhard bar and 3 link system creates a lot of side movement on the axle... so I want to have the servo installed at the axle and keep the 4-link suspension system.
@@royomtb That's exactly how it is on the gen8 no difference, the gen8 has bump steer and horrible chassis sway it's really bad and the reason I drive my scx10ii way more lol.
these are what I used in the Optimus 2 build and will be going into the next build as well rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FSTRC-Brass-Front-Steering-Knuckles-Black-TRX-4-1-STRT8252BR%2F292734872676%3Fepid%3D24019898119%26hash%3Ditem44285bac64%3Ag%3ARNAAAOSwncRbopoe&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
I just did the fronts to clear the knuckles. I’m sure it helps a little with sidehills but too much will really mess up the leverages and will cause a lot of wheel scrub.
been thinking about getting the Hot Racing brass knuckle with outer cover with the Hot racing brass c hubs.. Will I need to do some grinding on my Gen 8? Or is it a easy upgrade. I was reading here, that some people had to do some grinding and whatnot.
The aluminum parts have a flat mating surface, plastic has an ess bend and if you do go brass outers you need to grind the ess bend flat on the brass. Easy fix, just irritating they did that.
08Z06 over time the aftermarket will get everything perfected. When the trx first came out the aftermarket was a bit off from brand to brand, now it all bolts together for the most part.
I would go back and put threadlock into the main bearing retention screws in the portal boxes... In my TRX-4 with the Aluminum portals I also thought it would not matter? They still came undone after a few packs even with a dab of threadlock… I recently re-do them with more threadlock so they will stay in place.
more than likely I'll be threadlocking them, I just didn't want to mess them up with stuff that's too strong for the tiny bolts. They use a 1.5mm hex wrench and those aren't very strong
@@ExocagedRC Medium threadlock is enough just go wild with it… I usually put a small dot on the tip of the bolt but those suckers do require full thread covering, I guess the metal gears on the portals create too much vibration...
With my Axial EXO with metal diffs I used those tiny 1.5mm bolts completely stuffed with medium threadlock with no issues.
if you brace the panhard bar mount to the upper link mount you wont put any stress on that tiny screw also the serevo mount will rip those scews out of that housing those tiny screws arent ment to hold any kind of load thats just asking for problems
I have notice that you cannot use aftermarket brass outer portal housings with these aluminum housings, as the stock plastic has an angled edge that the aftermarket parts match. The Redcat Gen8 aluminum portal housings have a "flat" or "straight" mating edge. It appears you could carefully grind the inner aluminum housing upper edge at the same angle as stock in order to use the aftermarket outer brass housings. I have both the Treal and Hot Racing brand brass outer housings, neither work as they both match the stock plastic angled housings.
bobzilla9p0 there is one guy in the Redcat gen8 Facebook group that puts the brass covers on a milling machine and makes them fit. That’s the only way to make them work together that I know of.
Now how about I get both the brass inner knuckle and the brass outer cover from Hot racing? Am I still going to have to do some grinding?
Thanks for doing this video I'm doing a gen8 pack build and have been upgrading it I just did the brass portal cover and after watching your video I just ordered the aluminum knuckles. Found them on RC Planet 40.58 shipped using there 20% off coupons thanks again.👍
That’s a great price. One guy mentioned in the comments that to use the brass cover you’ll have to mod the knuckles a tiny bit, you may want to look through and see what he says about it.
I saw that thanks . I also did a steering mod that I don't believe anybody else is doing I installed the servo horn backwards and used axial 45ﾟ links so it's now positioned behind the servo instead of in front with plenty of clearance and 0 bump steer If you have a email I'll send you some pics
Just something I do instead of "weak" threadlock, I use clear nail polish instead. It holds very well, is durable in water & weather & is easy to break free when/if you need further repairs.
I'm a bit late viewing this video but only because I've saved enough to get a Gen 8 Scout of my own.
YYC Designz RC Creations I’ve heard from many that the nail polish works well. Plus you can color match. LoL.
Why not go with heavy brass parts?
No need for brass on this truck as I never plan to compete with it and it actually does fine as is for my needs.
@@ExocagedRC True enough, keep on truckin!
@@ExocagedRC I looked it up and the brass would be twice the price for me, not counting shipping. So I will be going aluminum because of cost, not comp truck, OEM parts.
I sure wish they would go to torx bolts. Im tired of fighting with allen boltts
most of the time the allen bolts work really well, its when they don't it becomes a problem.
@@ExocagedRC im sure your probably right what i. Meant to say is throw away the allen wrench that comes with it
@@ExocagedRC sorry you are right not probably right
That is a freaking awesome upgrade,thank you for the info👍👍👊👊
you're welcome
Excellent upgrade! Nice video man!
Tho , I don't have a Gen-8....you have some of the best videos, testing and comparisons(servos, motors ei).
Keep it up Buddy.
Thank you bud, I hope I'm getting better at doing these kinds of videos and hopefully helping the RC community out, especially the new guys.
2 things ...
Where do we get that cool skid plate? And could you make a bunch more of the axel/panhard stabaluzer? ✌️ Thanks again for the great vids!
as far as the skid plate goes there is a nice metal one on ebay for about $10 thats better than the plastic printed parts. So I'd recommend getting that and we can work a deal on the nice piece which is a CNC Engraved piece I can make with info you need on it. As far as the stabalizer goes yeah I'm sure I can make a few of them but they are very simple and I have a video on how to make them.
th-cam.com/video/hyhp7Inq_ns/w-d-xo.html
You do a great job for installing the aluminum portal, If I buy the GEN8 I will Install for sure :)
Nice vídeo. Will be good to see How you install the servo on the axle at gen7. I have the Gen7 with portal , but the CMS is creating a Lot of stering bump..
its a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut and bent and I used some servo tabs from something else I had laying around and got it to fit. I've asked several people to make diff covers with servo mounts built in but they don't want to do it.
I thought the portal kit for the gen7 came with all the stuff to chassis mount the servo.
@@stpbasss3773 it did but I didn't really like it much and for this build it just wasn't what I wanted.
@@stpbasss3773 yes the portal kit have all the stuff to mount the servo at the chassis... but it creates a lot of bump steer, and also the panhard bar and 3 link system creates a lot of side movement on the axle... so I want to have the servo installed at the axle and keep the 4-link suspension system.
@@royomtb That's exactly how it is on the gen8 no difference, the gen8 has bump steer and horrible chassis sway it's really bad and the reason I drive my scx10ii way more lol.
How did the no thread lock work out?
Hey Awesome upgrades!!! Great video and tips. Thank you for posting the links above. Looks great with the upgrades and mods.
Just replaced the cvd in my left front. Time to order the cases now. Thanks for the info and links✌
I know this is an older video but are the portals for the Gen7 the same as the Gen8
Yep same ones
Exocaged RC thanks for the quick response!! Much appreciated. This is why I asked here My favorite RC Channel!!
Snowman awesome man. Glad I could help!
Do they make this also in brass? Like for the traxxas trx4?
Yes they do. I’ll get you a link to what I use.
these are what I used in the Optimus 2 build and will be going into the next build as well rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FSTRC-Brass-Front-Steering-Knuckles-Black-TRX-4-1-STRT8252BR%2F292734872676%3Fepid%3D24019898119%26hash%3Ditem44285bac64%3Ag%3ARNAAAOSwncRbopoe&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
Awesome thank you ... are there brass for the gen 8 also?
There is some brass out now
How much doses the portalaxel weights (the new one)?
Not sure as I’ve never weighed them separately
Looks like you found a fire sale on yellow jack stands
lol
Awesome brother,,,big like
Would these fit on the Gen 8 Axe? they look the same
What do you think of brass portals? Are they just as good as aluminum?
Did you do the 2mm hex on the rear tires also? Do you think it helps with roll overs?
I just did the fronts to clear the knuckles. I’m sure it helps a little with sidehills but too much will really mess up the leverages and will cause a lot of wheel scrub.
been thinking about getting the Hot Racing brass knuckle with outer cover with the Hot racing brass c hubs.. Will I need to do some grinding on my Gen 8? Or is it a easy upgrade. I was reading here, that some people had to do some grinding and whatnot.
My next mod on my Gen 8 will be all aluminum axles.👍🏼
The aluminum parts have a flat mating surface, plastic has an ess bend and if you do go brass outers you need to grind the ess bend flat on the brass. Easy fix, just irritating they did that.
08Z06 over time the aftermarket will get everything perfected. When the trx first came out the aftermarket was a bit off from brand to brand, now it all bolts together for the most part.
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