£5000 Sierra Cosworth Engine Block Clean Up
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1st Video, Picking the Engine up from London 🏰🤴🏼
• I Bought a Cosworth En...
2nd Video, Stripping the engine to a bare block and seeing what’s inside 🪱
• £5000 COSWORTH ENGINE ...
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A Few words on the Cosworth engine from
www.burtonpower.com
An incredibly famous engine, the Cosworth YB Turbo actually began life in 1984 as a N/A Cosworth YAA concept. However, the turbo version was launched in the 1986, 3 door Sierra with 204bhp. The infamous RS500 version of the same car followed in 1987 with 225bhp, a bigger T4 turbo, eight injectors (only four connected) and an engine designation of YBD.
Perhaps the most plentiful Sierra, the Sapphire hit the roads between 1988-89 with a 4x4 version being produced from 1990-92. The engine was subsequently available in two versions for this latter car - The YBJ, which incorporated many of the RS500 motorsport type revisions, plus the green cam covered YBG, meant for the US emissions sensitive market. This had three cats, closed loop lambda control and ran on 95 octane unleaded.
Finally the Escort Cosworth took over from 1992 with the big turbo YBT engine, featuring a T34 and four wheel drive, whilst the series came to a halt with the introduction of the T25, small turbo Escort between 1994-96. This also featured Ford EEC IV management, with wasted spark ignition, twin coils, a different series of injectors and a unique black cam cover.
The most common engine is the original YBB (3 dr and 2wd Sapphire), which can be easily tuned with chip and turbo modifications to increase the boost level. However, the 4x4 head is the ideal base since the early type has less water jackets and is susceptible to blowing head gaskets with serious hikes in boost.
To begin with, you’ll need to upgrade the actuator to -31 (dash 31) type and upgrade the management chip to increase the fuel and boost level too - this will typically be to around 270/280bhp. We would recommend that you also fit a good stainless exhaust such as our Mongoose range, plus a K&N filter.
After that stage, you need to swap the injectors for 803s - commonly known as Dark Greens. To this you’ll need a different chip again, plus a 3-BAR MAP sensor to up the boost to 19 PSI (1.3 BAR) resulting in approximately 320-330bhp.
Beyond this level, we’d recommend fitting a Group A or multi-shim head gasket and for extra security in high-boost applications, and an ARP stud and nut kit.
However, around this level, the standard Garrett T3 turbo will have reached its limit although there are now several paths to take in turbo choice. These though are always a trade off between turbo lag and driveability - hence why going straight to a T4 isn’t always a good move. Popular choice is to fit an Escort T34 or a hybrid T3 along with a larger intercooler. T38’s are also available although these aren’t an off-the-shelf Garrett unit and are seen more as a hybrid. You should see power potential with this to around 460bhp, whilst the T34 will give you power to around 380bhp.
At this point - and especially if you want to use a T4 with power potential to the touring car levels of 540bhp - the engine needs to be purpose-built to suit. The reason is you’ll need extra head work in terms of porting, different cams (although BD14s are the limit on the street), lower compression ratios and long stud conversion. The trick is making the most of the unit whilst producing power without huge amounts of lag. Once you get to this stage, we can advise you on the best way forward, depending on the type of engine you have.
A different route, and still popular way to tune the YB, is to return it to the original N/A application, which involves raising the compression. For this, we stock Accralite forged pistons to increase the ratio to as much as 12.5:1 although they can be machined to lower the CR since they have raised crowns for this purpose.
On top of this modification, the head needs the ports seriously opening out and for ultimate horsepower applications, larger valves installed. The cams too need swapping for non-turbo profiles although they aren’t designed to work with the standard YB hydraulic lifters and therefore need converting to solid lifter type.
It would be a very good idea to change the water core plugs and oil gallery plugs at this stage of the build you have all ready spent a ton of money .
I was thinking that when I was painting it
Would suggest chasing and chamferring all the threaded holes, cleaning up casting flash and a general deburring.
Kind of surprised that all of the plugs weren’t removed and the block hot tanked or similar while at the machinist’s, or better yet, prior to going to the machinist, for a full inspection before initiating the machine work.
With experience, you’ll learn the importance of the inspection prior to initiating any machine work, and potentially ending up with a expensive highly polished turd, that doesn’t meet expectations.
Very good point, always best to replace the core plugs you can’t see the corrosion they leak from the inside out
I love your videos but I wish you wouldn’t keep repeating yourself , other wise your vids are mint
@@georgedreisch2662engine inspection in previous video by old school ford bloke. Worth a watch.
Thanks for showing us the file and masking tape tip! I’ll definitely be doing that myself
proper spray painters tape you just pull back on it at an angle and it will rip the sides off. You think i go about filing cars all day? 😂
Nice work Adam looking forward to seeing how the engine sounds when you fire it up
@@bigduphusaj162 🤣🤣
Get the same result using a nylon hammer and no damage
@@brucegillies4798 yeah but you dont need any tools if you bought the right tape and learned to tape up correctly and rip it properly like i said, i do this for a living. He's filing away his block like a piece of cheese to remove a piece of tape and now you're swinging a hammer about needing arrested. Just put the tools away lads
I love your videos Adam.
If only to hear the accent again. I'm from Northern Ireland, but I lived in Ashington from 1996-1999 and I really miss the Geordie lilt. I worked up in Bellingham, Haltwhistle and Bishop Aukland late '95 and thought, 'They're all fucking nuts. I might fit in round here.' And that was how I ended up living in the North East for a while.
One of my favourite local words was Marra (which allegedly is a word adapted from the old Norse language).
Keep up the good work. You keep saying, 'I'm not a professional', but your work is a pretty good standard that most folk would be pleased with.
love your videos man!!!!! Please for the love of god take the block to an engine shop and have it cleaned professionally. it looks amazing but the block should be clean as a whistle right before assembly. All of that rust is now in your engine. Its well worth it to re-paint it after cleaning and not risk damaging a new engine .Cheers
Before you go any further with this rebuild make sure you thoroughly clean the oil passages, stud holes and sealing surfaces. Do it twice! Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness. Then wrap it in clingfilm or similar until you’re ready to start reassembling it. You don’t want any dirt or debris anywhere near this engine as you put it together. Good luck!
You really should cover your cars Adam when you’re doing this sort of. Work all that rust and iron filings and bits of wire that fly off in the air will cause havoc on your nice white paint work.👍
You should have asked Barums to put the block in their vapor blaster, but good job, looking forward to the build
Was going to say same thing for that price atleast clean the man’s block lol 5 min job in the blaster
Vapour blasting leaves grit in all the oil ways, actually everywhere! Impossible to get it all out. Not a great start for a newly built engine... looks cool, but fatal 🤦♂️
Yep only way to really do it outside of DIY like Adam did it is the traditional way, hot tank.
@@russellmarsh9986nonsense, one blow from an airhose and its gone. If it has capped passages like some bike engines have then youd be taking them out to clean them anyway. I blast blocks all the time never had a single issue and thats on marine raceblocks too that are opened regularly so any damage whatsoever from abrasion would be spotted instantly.
@@russellmarsh9986on top of my last comment ive been doing this 40yr now. You can blast a block to your hearts content, they are easy to fully blow out litteraly a 3 min job.
If you have wire wired wheels the engine after the maching is done, id be going through that engine with magnets and pipe cleaners just to ensure that no shrapnel from the wire wheels has gotten inside the engine.
Mate, great work but you really should cover your cars whilst doing any sanding/grinding or spraying! Rust will destroy the paintwork!
This is where it starts adding up now pal, all these little bits, it’s a lot of dough but spread out over a few months might help ease the pain , whatever amount ££ you put in.and the upgrades ,it’s not loosing any value , even if you
just sit it on a stand in your kitchen when it’s done lol
Good call on the core plugs I’ve just had one go on a 2wd cylinder head , well worth doing ,
I like that file method for masking! Top Tip
I wouldn’t have a clue how to do any of this but I do enjoy these videos. Well done!
Thanks Stu. I have no idea what I’m doing. I just start go with the flow🙈
@@Adam151082can tell mate 😂 You wire wheeled the grease and oil into your metal mate, you need to degrease first. Also get yourself marine epoxy 2 pack paint mate in future or if you want it in cans get it from proper boat paint supply places as they have basically every normal colour and all you need to do to activate them is press the undside of the can in till it cracks the little chamber open and mixes the 2 components. Ive no idea why you are all still using single pack air dried paints they are terrible and 2 pack paints even come in cans now so do yourself a favour Adam use a 2 pack when you can. They also go on easier and nicer.
Not to knock what your doing Adam but I would of cleaned the block fully before you took it for machining.
Also you need to get all the core plugs out and the ball bearing in the back of the block.
Then fully clean it inside and out and use brushes to rod through all the oil gallery's
Use some thread chasers to clean all the threaded holes.
Engine building is all C&C Clearance's and Cleanliness ,you only need one bit of dirt in the wrong place and all that hard earned money will be wasted
I always use cometic gaskets too
Good lad giving it all a go. Only way to learn. Im glad everyone else is an expert. Lol. Good enjoyable videos you put out son. 😊👍😎
Looking cushty m8 u wanna chuck that lump in the sapphire nice 1 for showing us everything 👍👍
Thanks mate, i learnt something today. I never knew that a cordless drill had a button to make it go forwards or backwards, mental that.
You'll be fine with the Hammerite. I've been using it for years on brake calipers.
its 1 pack garbage how can it be good? It falls of calipers in a year or 2 and on performance cars where there are more heat cycles it lasts about 6month. 2pack paint is the absolute only good paint use marine 2pack epoxy on your brakes engine and parts.. can even get it in 2pak cans where you burst the catalyst container at the bottom of the can. Give it a try next time and thank me later for steering you away from a 1-3yr paint job right into the 15+yr territory.
You can use a nylon/rubber mallet to tap the edges of the masking tape & it gives you clean edges…
Excellent video pal love this your a brave man it’s a lot of a build And a ton of money good luck and keep it going
Your getting some good advice in your comments to
Go steady am excited for more 🚗💨💨
As heavy as a overweight teenager. Classic 😂 keep up the great content cheers mate 👍
I actually rebuild these engines as a job full time and them machines faces can easily take the nott ended brush ... I use them on a airline dyegrinder and it's fine
Love your videos and am a classic Ford fanatic, you made me bite the bullet and bought a mint 1990 Orion, if you are looking for somewhere to store your engine when finished, I may know an engine bay😅😅
I’d have painted the block silver, it looked nice when you’d cleaned it, also help tracing any leaks if they happen in the future.
youd be suprised. Black block is still easy to see oil it looks brown on it. brown or darker reds/oranges is hardest to see oil on. Blacks a nightmare colour to blend in too as theyre never the same shade and it looks obvious at certain angles. I fade out the opposite way with blacks and pearl whites. I spray the full area down on the first coat then back in to just the fix area by the last coat. Works better imo
Check out a baking soda blaster before you cleanup your next engine....heaps easier and quicker then wire wheels.
I’ve got to take my hat off to you Adam taking on this yourself, one advantage you have got is you know plenty experienced folk that will guide you through the technicalities 👏👏
One good technique for cleaning the gasket surfaces around the block is to get yourself a good quality diamond honing stone used for sharpening wood chisels, the quality ones are dead true so a light rub in all directions will give you a perfectly smooth face, but not on the head face off course 😂
It’s amazing how not many people know about the masking up tip 👍 have been doing it for years but I use the misses’s emery nail files 😂
One thing I’ve noticed is you haven’t hurt yourself or spilt anything lately so obviously getting more professional, the only downside to that is we don’t get to have a giggle at your expense 😜
Grand job Adam love an old restoration vid ❤
That wire wheel treatment has filled the oil filter mounting and likely all the internal oil galleries with crap. Wash them out and blow them with compressed air to make sure all the oil galleries are 100% clean before you build it
Imagine a wire wheel bristle in an oil gallery - heading for a main, and maybe even bits of it ending up at a big end!🤦♂️
@@cg7975thats why you use only brass. They would squash then get cleaned out with clerance with little friction. Steel wire especially stainless, yeah nahh not for me cleaning near passages with it. My normal wire brush the one on a stick im happy doing most stuff with around passages but not a steel wire wheel no.
Another great vid adam. Was nice too see an old picture of your old 3 door, not sure on them saph wheels it was on tho mate 😂
Just excellent Adam, i'm going out to finish my Calibra engine rebuild once ive watched this video 👍
Sent you a coffee Adam, cheers for all the content 👍
Awesome, thank you! 😊👍🏼
Quality video mate. Just waiting for you to pick up a white Escort Cosworth 😀
You need to change the core plug as well it’s pointless as the rust from the inside out your going that far on the engine build you would be pissed if you get a water leak when do from any core plug’s love videos great to watch keep up the great work
Adam I love the channel. Why did you spend £5k on an old engine when you could have rebuilt the one in the car already?
Nice 2 see you taking on the challenge, u can only learn by any mistakes made, its how we all learn, fingers crossed tho adam all goes well, hats off to you and keep up these fantastic videos.
Remember A Car Is Born? Where that geezer built a cobra replica? Is that where the whiteboard idea came from?
I started off with Cavalier GSi, and though't I was cool, till I seen The Cavalier Turbo, which I now own..😂, got to love old skool cars.
Valve guides, is what they are called. How do you intend to fit them in the cylinder head?
All your missing now is the Escort cosworth as you've got a brilliant engine for it now as you did say last year you were interested in getting one if one came along so I do hope you get what you were after
Love watching your videos mate,
Awesome work Adam. Always good to have an engine rebuilt on the go because you never know when you gonna need more power...
haven't got a car to put it in you have 2 candidates haha awesome video mate 👍
Get a link stand alone ecu for it Adam. And a fresh engine wiring loom
Great job Adam, I would have thought the Engine Shop would have hot Tanked the block before Machining? would made it a bit easier for you.
That Cavalier was mint!
That paint will be fine I’ve seen it used for brakes engines and I’ve never seen it flake even after a few years
Nice paint job Adam. Custom built engines will last longer, run better, etc. Maybe if you get bored...give us a brief history of the awesome Cosworth engine and why people love them. Also, didn't Chevy make a Cosworth Vega? What's up with that. Thanks Man!
Love your content Adam
That 🎨 paint you used is top quality. I've used it on all sorts of things 😊
no it isnt its fence paint. All one pack paints are abysmal. Get 2 pack paints in future and if you need a thicker long lasting paint use marine 2 pack epoxy. Boat builder here ex coachbuilder and marine mech, my mainstay is spraypainting ive been doing it 4 decade now. 1 pack paints are abysmal bar none
Brilliant well done Adam looking pukka like others have said make sure you change then cawl plugs had one of them leak in 90s on Sierra glx I had bit of crap job to do when the engine in situ but makes sense to do them while your replacing and rebuilding the engine 👍🏽👍🏽
Brilliant build series very satisfying to watch. You're doing a great job 👍
Fair play to you Adam lad, for someone who says they are not a professional you are doing a bloody good job!!! I really do admire you brother, your a F#cking legend!!! 👍🙂👍
Cheers Johnnie
Hi Adam I wish you had dropped that engine in to Joe Stevens at HARTPOWER while you was in Essex, you could have sat back cracked out the iron brew and chilled for a bit before heading back to Essex 👍to collect your 500 bhp cossie yb 😀
Fantastic video Adam. You should be writing the cost breakdown down so its only visible under UV light. So the Mrs dusent see 😂😂😂
Not sure how I got here , probably something to do with the V6 Hondas and I Do Cars ? Although mainly Japanese , I designed and developed at lot of parts for these when chief engineer at a performance company in East London back in the 90s. The location meant a lot of these cars also arrived for attention . Most popular item was my quick shifts for the BW T5 and ZF gearboxes which includes that fitted in your vehicle . TWR fitted these to their Cosworths as they were a reengineered new Ford item , not a cut and shut . I also looked after the ECU reprogramming and have a library of chips for the Sierra and Sierra Sapphire up to 500 bhp including the '320 ' which was a more driveable option and will produce those gains with the stock T3 Garrett Turbo . A chargecooler is preferable to an AtoA intercooler and these were custom made at the time , probably now available off the shelf .
Stock bottom end will go to 500 bhp reliably but rods and pistons will require mods to extend their life somewhat . Rods - LT stress relieve , beam polish , balance and shot pean . Pistons anti det grooves , oil groove , dry lube etc., and compression lower depending on envisaged boost , charge cooler etc . The stock Mahles have survived in very boosty BMWs and SAAB 900s . Solid copper or trilayer steel head gasket , cylinder head studding etc. Your friendly local machine shop can do this work .
Headwork is straightforward and mainly confined to increasing inlet port side and highly polishing exhaust as it benefits keeping exhaust gas speed up for road use . This applies to cams too for the same reason . Its not too difficult and you could DIY it with a rotary tool .
Have fun !
I enjoyed this upload mate, you have done a cracking job. 👍
ps when you said you found that paint brush in the shed, did you actually mean the 'spray booth' ? 😆
Yes I did😂
@@Adam151082 I thought so.. also I hope your gf didn't find out you were spray painting next to her clothes on the washing line.. 😆😂
should of got them to fully clean the engine and do the oil squirter mod seems you are doing big power
Enjoying the asmr close ups 🤣
What’s the plans on balancing the rotating assembly seen loads on the barum yt about this, could make a huge difference.
Torn between a YB, an SR20 or a 13b for my na miata. Such a tough decision.
The cavalier is still my favourite. Wish I could find a good gsi 4x4 in the silver/grey
Damn using barum. That’s who I would have used. Serious stuff
Awesome mate. I do believe the ARP stud kit needs some fitting grease. That's gonna be fast as lighting. Big fan of Barum Engineering. Thumbs way up!
Another cracking video 📹 Adam. Very interesting 😊
Can’t wait for part two well done mate
Loving this engine block rebuild thanks adam,keep going mate its will be mint
Quality video. You’re doing a great job Adam. 👍👌👍
Thanks 😊👍🏼
Loving these vids mate, top job. can't wait to seeing it being rebuilt
Great to see this engine coming along. Love your videos, I have used stove paint on motorcycle engine blocks and exhausts previously, it’s heat resistant to higher temperatures. I didn’t do your prep work though so I’m sure the hammerite will be fine.
yeah for 3yr max. Im a spray painter mate. Im not going to nedlessly bash Adam but the following is the correct way> Degrease first so you arent sanding the oil into the metal and it allows you to see better what you are sanding. Use only a brass wheel not a stanless one. Once degreased and brushed and cleaned again use 80 grit to 240 grit sanding flap wheel to abrade as much of it as possible with the flap wheel before using a red(maroon) coloured Mirka scuff pad to abrade the bits that are hard to get to. Clean with a waterbased then solvent based paint prep cleaner. At this point you have a few options.. for best results spray on a primer coat of acid etch primer or adhesion promoter, then paint it while its still able to chemically bond.. or wait till the primer is completely cured then scuff it up again with the red Mirka pads, then paint it. The red mirka pads are brilliant for abrading a surface, they are better by miles than any other scuff pad so are the black and grey ones but you want the red ones for this job as they are good on metals and abrade them to around 320grit all over evenly so your paint is on there for a decade at least. Paint wise you are all using the wrong stuff that wont see 5yr nomatter what you do with it. You want marine grade 2 pack epoxy paint if you have a spraygun ideal, if not buy the cans of it that you break the bottom off to mix the 2 components together. Go on light for the first coat to introduce it to the material, do not try to get a finish on the first coat you need it to flash quick so its tacky (this stops runners on the following full coat) then for the finish coat you can go on nice and thick, to do this just slow the can movement speed down and stay as close as you can before you get pile up. Proper epoxy paint whoops anyhting you've likely ever used before and is heat resistent and oil resistant as it gets. Epoxy paint will be on there for 15+yr no problem if you do it this way. Another thing too Adams tape filing tip is a common one but a better way to do it is use proper 3m blue spray painters tape, Push the edges over and go around the edges with your finger with a glove on and make the tape have a distinct fold in it where it needs ripped. Place a thumb on the top portion of the tape thats to stay on and rip the rest of it downwards or away from it at an angle. You will get good at this quickly once it works for you the first time you get a clean tear off. You can rip it off fast in one go if you know where to pull it. Apart from that theres not much to say other than 1 pack air dry paints are rubbish and all of them will flake off quite quickly, the marine epoxy is the absolute only thing you want near a car engine block if you have the chance.
Good way to Guarantee to get the oil out the cast iron pores is to us a gas blow torch
just a bit of advice. you can get paint "bleed" through masking tape. however, green frog tape solves that issue
green frog tape is garbage 😂 You need 3M blue spray painters tape pal the green frog is rebranded chinese junk with a wax on it to stop the paint saturating. 3M or Mirka blue line man try them for size. No contaminents
Great stuff... looks great
Adam, had you thought about running a tap in all of the threaded holes in the cylinder block.
Yes. I will certainly be doing that
Quote of the day ‘Weights as much as a overweight teenager’ lol 😂
Great work you are doing on this top class engine Adam when are you hoping to get the engine built under way from the bottom end up or are you still waiting on parts to arrive before you can complete the build ? Great postings on your TH-cam channel keep them coming
Subscribed mate 👍
Great video, where did you get that whiteboard pal
Great video Adam, really enjoying the engine build.
Never let your Mrs see your channel or see the White board in the garage 💰💰🙈 😁
I always tell mine everything cost half of what it actually did 😂
100% your other half spends double on her makeup and clothing so it evens out in the end 😂
Cant help but think youve just loads of rust/dust in the cylinders after using the wire brush. Why oh why didn't you mask it up before using the wire wheel
Great stuff Adam love the old fords was probably at Croft circuit as I had s2 turbo and was there most years from 01 onwards.But ere don’t show your lass that board coz u be living in that garage 😂
Love these vids!
Omg miss my cav gsi
Love it Adam, having a go yaself 👌
Barum engines proper job
Thanks for the videos! Really enjoying the content!!
That paint is what Ford use so don’t worry . £842 is fine for that works , try doing it yourself and see what is costs
Absolutely great video once again Adam, this is a mint project 👍🏻 mint channel, love your content, proper down to earth, have a go stuff that turns out mint 👌🏻
Nice. Would have gone for silver though myself.
Hi Clean the engine clock right next to your car all the shit will be going all over your car why not do it outside in the nice weather😅
Get yourself a solvent resistant pump bottle and buy 5l of panel wipe/spirit wipe will save money on arasol brake etc cleaner
It's too late now he has already done it 😆
Loving the engine block brother good work ❤❤
Get yourself an Escort cossie shell to put it in👌
I donated a tenner for your hammerite mate, score it off the board 😂👍🏻
Just seen your mug on the lano guard advert 😂
Good vid Adam why did you not replace the core plugs.
At least you say barum properly lol 👍
Petrol works just as well as brake cleaner for cleaning. You can also purchase 5L cans of brake cleaner and use in a spay bottle. Far cheaper than spray cans
I’d be tempted to change the core plugs on the block mate
petrol leaves residues paint hates residue
@@bigduphusaj162 yes you are right. The idea is , you use the petrol to remove the heavy dirt and staining. Then use the brake cleaner for a final clean. Which would remove the small residue left by petrol. Reducing the cost of cleaning large parts with loads of brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is basically a form of thinners which evaporates. Similar to petrol
Top job adam
Such a top bloke
That looks amazing Adam so far so good keep up the good work mate us dimwits always need as much help as we can get 😂😂
Why haven't you removed all the Core Plugs and most importantly all the Oil Way Plugs to make sure everything is clear and clean? This is the most important job on any engine rebuild but especially on a Cosworth.
I would have thought it would have been better to get the block acid tanked/ chemical cleaned instead of the wire wheel?.... definitely cleaned up well tho👌