SNS 294 Kubota Crankshaft Hot Shot 360
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- In this episode I finish off the repairs for the Kubota engine crankshaft, getting the bore cleaned up and machining a new bushing for it. I also show my new Hot Shot 360 heat treating oven that was built and purchased from Bar Z Industrial.
For info on the Micro 100 Micro Quik tooling check out this link www.micro100.c...
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My second TH-cam channel that covers our fun explorations and traveling.
Abom Adventures / @abomadventures
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I really love the fact that you are open to suggestions from a friend... being a really skilled craftsman yourself... it makes you human and really fun to watch.. keep up the good work!
Keith has many years over me in the trade so I value his judgment. 👍🏻
@@Abom79 that separates you in a positive way from many other "you tubers" ... really love the vids! .. building a motorcycle in my shed.. not being an engineer.. and learning every day, especially on your repair jobs like the crankshaft job... so.. thanks!
Yes! Back on track. These are the videos we like to see, and the three generations portrait in the end. How many can point to such a legacy? Very few!
Thank you, Adam.
I can't believe the number of complicated processes that this guy can just Breeze through.
I can see myself being able to master two or three of them but this guy's got like ten thousand of them mastered.
Nice work Adam. I’ve made several custom pilot bushings over time and have always used the sintered oilite material. The material is infused with 30W oil. I always re-infuse after machining since oil tends to leech out during the machining process. It can be done by placing the bushing in a cup of oil and putting it under vacuum until it stops bubbling. An old transmission guy said to avoid converting to a roller bearing because the input shaft may not be hardened. I enjoyed your video as per the usual.
The tile material you have is of the 22 lb density material. It was used for the orbiter tiles in areas as those around the edges of the nose and main landing gear doors. They are stronger than most tiles on the orbiter which were only 8lb density per cubic foot. They are remarkable materials and are approximately 94% air. Most tiles had to be re-waterproofed after every flight because they wick up water way better than a sponge! You should pour water on a block of it to see how much water they hold. I work in the machine shop where tiles are made. We make them for the Orion capsule and for Sierra Nevada’s Dream Chaser vehicle.
Great Work. I Retired from a Major Airline, Maintenance and Pilot. Our Hanger had a great shop and a Master Machinist of 40 years that would make parts and special tools for Engine changes and 1 off odd things. One day I was in a Hurry and tried to make a Simple alignment tool for the engine bushings... I screwed it up quickly... and was shooed out the area from our Master Machinist...he said in A Thick Russian accent " Your work is so bad im shocked the Lathe and Mill Machine didn't unbolt itself and roll away from you ...Give me Print and a Hour it will be done".
I would like an episode with repainting the steady-rest ☺️
Dang it and here I thought I was the only one thinking the same thing... then I went to the "I wonder if whomever built it years ago thought it would still be around and what it'd look like" train of thought... haha
Don’t hold your breath. Painting is one of my least favorite tasks 😤
@@Abom79 maybe wallpaper. A floral print?
@@Abom79 ok, now I see, thanks for the answer! 😅
Or don’t paint. There is a beauty in things well used. Whereas things which are freshly painted (my truck) lose beauty with the first chip or scratch. Your steady rest has an honest beauty that I wouldn’t touch.
My father was a machinist by trade. Growing up, I was always fascinated with little metal nic-nacs I would find laying around. I never knew what they were. As it turned out, they were machining tool stock. Although he taught me how to fix just about anything (calling a repairman was unheard of) and how to do electrical, I never learned about machining, metal working or welding. I am 100% impressed and fascinated by your videos, your professionalism and skill-set. You work is absolutely phenomenal. Thank you for what you do and know that your vlogs make a difference in people's lives. People wanting to learn a trade don't have far to look for inspiration.
R B well said,could not have said it better myself.🙂
Just a side note if anyone has to remove one of these bushings, one process is to fill the hole with grease, then insert a very close fitting shaft into it, and beat the shaft with a hammer. The grease acts like hydraulic fluid and will actually push the bushing back out as it compresses at the rear. Course, doesn't work if you can't get a fairly tight fit with your pounding shaft. Nice work Adam!
Shunta Wolf wet toilet paper does the trick
Anything will work including bread, not exactly rocket science
It works but the grease makes a big mess!
God bless you all!
@@chrisbanning413 Hmmmmm interesting idea!!!
Nothing will work if it's a thin bushing without much surface area +inside to push against.
I enjoyed that, 61 now and it took me back to my apprenticeship days ! a spigot bush in the u.k. I believe. thanks.
Nice work. I would point out that while pressing the bushing your putting the stress on the threaded rods. Turn that splitter 90 degrees and put the stress on the body of the splitter. When I worked as a mechanic every splitter we had had the rods bent because of that practice..
Alright! Heat treat projects coming soon. That'll be interesting. I do want to see the Monarch though, give it a little love in your videos.
I have heat treated shrader valve tools with a torch when I was a kid. Used to dunk them in oil and could get rockwell 60 with them. We used to soda blast them to brighten them up. We made them for an air conditioning company for putting the inlet valves together. Sure would have been nice to have that oven. Great videos
Just found your channel, retired now (Mechinical Eng). Love your educational direction. Professional standard on your trade. It is an honour to showcase your experience, teaching others, I admire you. This is what is missing in society (given to others). I to am a third generation engineer, my son will be the fourth.
from Dublin Ireland bless you all.
Good bless.
Awesome! Thank you 👍🏻
Nice video Adam. I agree with the oil infused bushings for that application as well. Those types of bushings are used in automotive distributor bodies that the mainshafts run against.
I've learned a ton from your channel on machine shop work. I appreciate your efforts in describing what you're doing in detail along the way. By the way, my favorite videos are the ones where you repair parts/items. Love em!
Keep up the good work!
Adam, I have a Monarch Series 61 (13 x 30 ) and had the same issues with parting,...tried everything to correct but to no avail,....until a friend of mine suggested I look at the slides under the cross saddle, which I did and to my surprise , this corrected the issue ! I suggest a quick inspection and rebuild of the retention slide clips on both sides, BTW great video !!
I was so very glad to hear Keith helping with your project, I have followed both of you for some time, and have enjoyed your channel. It’s probably time to get another t-shirt, people are always curious when they see the shirts, and wonder what your videos are about.
I hope that every new lathe made now will have a 6 jaw chuck. They are truly the best thing since sliced bread.Once again a great job fella.
Hope you enjoy heat treating, great skill to learn, and addition to the shop.
Thanks for sharing.
I laid a floor for the people out at micro 100 here in meridian. They are some on the funniest people I've met in a while. They showed us all of their new CNC machines. It's was pretty cool
You are starting to really keep an eye on the details of the job. Real nice touch Adam. Keep on doing on.
You should put a little plaque on the lathe that says "Parting is Such Sweet Sorrow..."
Good call from Keith in suggesting you use oilite material for this application. Excellent video - thanks Adam.
Adam, you're the man! The solid core rod Oillite/SAE 863 stock only comes in lengths of 5" or less (sometimes you can find it in 6½"), because of the manufacturing process. (It has to be molded from powered and sintered, so it can only be as long as the sintering mold.) Also, the chip that it is forming is not indicative of sintered stock, which chips like cat iron. I think they accidentally sent you the wrong stock.
Just discovered your channel via a recommendation from This Old Tony and was NOT disappointed. Though you guys are gonna cost me a lot of money when I have to buy a lathe and milling machine. . . . and TIG. Great content, glad that I came here.
Clickspring too, if you haven't seen already.
@@droplifter3435 already on that bandwagon. Haha. Great channel as well.
@@baronburgamot243 Maybe not related, but Lockpicking Lawyer is my jam too
Hi Adam, Over in th UK we call the bush a spigot bush and traditionally use Sintered Bronze that is soaked in oil for 24 hrs prior to installing. Very similar to the pre lubbed Olite. Great content as ever.
Andy
Good to see you went to the bronze oil lite. That’s a must. I was going to say something at the end of the video but I see you changed your plan. Always keep the bronze cool while machining as to not pull the oil out of the bronze.
Thanks for another great video. Many years ago We used to rebuild classic cars, many used oil lite for their small end bearing. We used to lightly block one side of the bearing, fill it with oil then apply pressure to the other side until the oil oozed out through the pores, then it was ready for use.
Great job I enjoyed watching. Retired maintenance after 28 yrs. From Dow Chemical Louisville ky.
I always grin when I see Adam use that massive steady rest on the victor. I bet it weighs more than that Kubota crank !
When machines were built like a tank...
Your shows are addictive. I cannot stop watching. Keep them coming.
Thank you Adam I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
I just fixed the exact problem on a Kubota b7200. I turned the shaft down to .500 and turned the id of the flywheel and pressed in a oilite bronze bushing. Didn't want to pull the whole crank out.
But did Adam use oilite? People in the comments think not and that it was a mistake.
Adam,
It's a pleasure to watch and listen to you doing all of the different projects that you do! You are an actual "Toolmaker" not a "Tool programmer"! BIG difference, HUGE!👍👍
Love your videos. Im not a machinist but watching helps me think differently. BTW ignore all the trolls in comments. Seems your channel sure brings out all the “experts” that have nothing better to do than complain.
Constructive criticism should always be allowed. That is how people learn, well, good people anyway.
Wow, that mirror finish on the MicroTool cutters...
Precision = When you make the perfect tool to install the work piece you just machined.
I could watch this stuff all day. Something about creating a shiny new product from raw materials.
the bushing you machined sems not to be synterized material but solid materail, usually, the oilite material produces chips that have the aspect of coarse dust, not a curly chip
...that's the truth.
That would have to mean McMasterCarr is selling everybody pure bronze as oilite
@@tylerakerfeldt7220 it is very possible, a packaging error is not impossible
What a great picture of you with papa and gran-papa. Ill print it out with my old timers but i don’t have a combined photo
I like you taking the time to promote/comment on what you use and why you use it. great work!
Awesome vid Adam. I’m an apprentice machinist and learned some basic skills in a job shop. Had to move over to a CNC production shop to find more steady work but i gotta say your videos really inspire me to keep on learning and become skilled enough to get back into the work I really enjoy, thanks for the vids!
Pilot ball bearing is what it really does need not a bushing that's all right I like watching you machine
That oilite bronze machines like a dream doesn’t it. Haven’t been able to run a lathe in years but I do remember making bushings and that stuff is nice to machine.
Enjoyed this one, as I almost always do with your videos, Adam.
Not to be alarmist, but having been in the manual machinist trade since around '88, I think you got the wrong bronze for that bushing. Oilite cuts in little grains, looking more like bronze sand than the ribbons you got. You do a different kind of work than I have done over the years, but I have done some oilite and to me what you cut there didn't look right. Sorry.
BTW, you sure are looking good! Taking care of yourself is important for all of us, and I hope to be watching your vids after I'm too old to run my own shop, which is coming up, me being a mid 1950's model. (My daughter was born in '79, too.) :)
I don't comment a lot, but sure have enjoyed your vids over the last few years. Very best regards.
Dean
Glad to see the Old K&T getting a workout. Thanks for the info regarding the use Oilite, I will remember. The Hot Shot 360 should be a very useful addition to the shop.
Love ur videos. You are a great machinist, but an even better instructor. Well done!
Micro100 carbide makes quality stuff for sure. The polished surfaces make for a real low cutting pressure especially for my under powered mini lathe.
I prefer the sealed ball bearing pilots if you can fit them. Looking forward to you wading into heat treating. It is a lot of fun, but also a very complex field.
Adam- Good choice on the oilite. Just a small correction to your commentary, Silicon bronze Alloy 655 is not used for marine propeller shafting. That was typically Alloy 464, also known as Naval brass or Tobin bronze, for the company that used to manufacture and market it. The giveaway is the yellow color of the end of the piece of stock you have; Silicon bronze has a lot more reddish tint to it, and is used for fastenings and structural members in wooden boat construction. Many thanks for the videos, keep ‘em coming. Best wishes from Stonington Boat Works up here in Connecticut.
Perfect size for heating up a burrito!
This man amaze me, wish I lived close by so I can watch him work, if he would let me.
Totally agree. Watching him work it's like watching master painter creating a masterpiece. I respect his skills
Adam I find these absolutely fascinating and you do a superb job at explaining everything. You can rightfully be very proud of your work and these videos.
Keith is right. I had some bronze pilot bushes made for an old Hillman Imp crankshaft and each of them lasted less than two months. I wish my machinist had recommended the oil impregnated bronze.
I was waiting for you to pull a cornish hen out if Stan’s oven!
Standard automotive practice is to soak an oil lite bushing overnight in engine oil overnight before installing. Good trick to remove a bad one is to use a tap a bit larger and when it bottoms out it will pull the bushing out of the crankshaft. Good video Adam.
Great work Adam. The bushing driver is just the kind of thing I build on my small lathe. Nice to see that the big boys do it.
I'm curious about the Oilite you bought for the crankshaft pilot bearing. Oilite is the stuff to use in clutch shaft pilot bearings because it's installed where it cannot be lubed is service. It comes from the factory pre-charged with a special thick oil ensuring lubrication for lightly loaded journal bearings for many years of operation in fans, motors, etc essentially lubricated for life. It has a 70 year history of utter reliability in similar applications.
I've machined a lot of Oilite but all the same grade. It was a sintered product and being porous it machined to make granular chips something like cast iron and would "sweat" oil if it warned from machining.
Your Oilite made ribbon chips and exuded no oil. I wonder if you got the right stuff - possibly leaded bearing bronze C932/SAE 660 which is a good bearing bronze but not Oilite. It requires periodic lubrication. General purpose Oilite meets a number of specs, among them: SAE 841.
MRC gets it right 99% of the time. Could this be the 1%? The websire of Motion Industries, your old employer, show it stocks Oilite in cored bars.
A dead giveaway is that SAE 863 only comes in lengths of 5" or less. I'm sure you can find it in liner or specialty lengths, but the vast majority is 5" or less in length, since it needs to be sintered in a mold.
Adam, Just recently found your channel. You've actually shown me some different idea's on how to have somethings repaired. Funny thing, You mention purchasing from Mc Master Carr. There Aurora, Ohio Warehouse is in my backyard. You name it, They've got it. My brother is head of maintenance for a local company and its amazing the products that they carry. He's said it many time,Having them so close has allowed him and his crew to make repairs and not lose a production shift. This tractor repair was just up my alley. And has given me a idea how to repair a Ford tractor with nearly the same problem. Shaft and Crank. Thank you, And keep posting these informative videos.
Sometimes at work when I have something like that in the steady rest, I wrap a piece of emery cloth around the shaft with the grit to the outside. This tends to keep the oil in and prevent metal to metal contact. The grit prevents the emery from spinning with the shaft.
old Indian trick ,old timer showed me some 35 years ago =you are keyrect Sir, Try to pass along all you can to are younger generation --we are in trouble ,in our Great US of A- talented tradesmen are a dying breed.
Ive been machining for 36 years and I run a small shop. My son also works there. My goal in life is to teach my son and the other workers everything that I know. My boss taught me the trick about 36 years ago.
I really enjoy the job shop work, nicely done and interesting.
I've done couple bearings from bronze with lathe (ICOCA) at voconational, aka highschool here. It were for old West German two stroke 49 cc moped from 1950s. It were easiest job, but pain were to save the bronze.
Adam, I think it is likely you will have problems with that bushing. As others have mentioned that probably wasn't sintered. I made this very same mistake on a car clutch. The bearing lasted about a month before it started screaming due to a lack of lubrication. I replaced it with oilite and it lasted years.
10:41
@@wrangler5729 SAE 863, according to McMaster-Carr's website, is high-strength bronze...and not sintered oil-impregnated bronze. They call out SAE 841 for that.
Weird though--because Google shows me several references to SAE 863 being available as "oil-impregnated" bronze. But I can find no mention of that being available on McMaster's website. All the SAE 863 stuff they list is "high-strength bronze," without mention of being oil-impregnated.
Good to see a bit of machine work Adam. Your shop's looking really good.
Holy smokes! I wasn’t expecting to see Turner Steel on Abom79’s channel! I live a few miles down the road and have bought from them before!
Settling in for another Saturday afternoon of working in the workshop while Adam plays in the background.
Adam. I love everything you do and watching you is addictive to me! Thank You.
I would have expected a small gap between bottom of the bore and the bush to aid removal by the hydrolic method in the future.
Oilite is becoming very common on small and med equipment as an alternative to standard greaseable pivot and hydraulic ram bushings. Cuts down on maintenance greatly and the machine stays very clean and presentable over the long run, which helps with resale.
Parting is such sweet sorrow
I bet that oven could put one hell of a sear on a ribeye...
I'm an engine machinist. That bushing should work but most agricultural engines have used a sealed roller bearing as a pilot bearing since the 1960's. Not sure what Kubota uses because I wont let Kubota items in my shop, always cost more to fix than what they are worth! Great video! Love the oven!
Anything remotely modern I've seen in automotive is roller, updated to roller with a roller bearing mounted in a bushing, or a single row ball bearing.
Andrew Evans I had to grin about your Kubota comment. I had a buddy that bought a John Deere a number of years ago because, “I’m not going to have one of those Jap tractors!”
You guessed it, the first time he looked at the serial number to order parts - there it was on the tag - Made in Japan.
We gave him proper hell.
I bet that oil impregnated is magical to machine! No coolant needed!
Nice job on the bushing Adam 👌
Well done Adam, nice video thanks for sharing
Always enjoy SNS.
And I always smile at the end, Hello Booth trio!
Thanks.
Nice work hitting them critical dimensions 👍. I like your steady rest, made mine based off of that design. It's a real pleasure to use 😁. Thanks for the share, Adam!
Good tip on checking the rod material vs the bushing cost. I'll remember that.
Trenton&Heath recommended your channel and it was an excellent recommendation. I wanna watch your videos continuously.
There was a high pitched whine throughout the whole video. I'm not complaining just wanted to give you a heads up
Adam would it be possible for you to do a little section about lathe safety best practices, I want to start machining and would appreciate a short guide on how not to mess up the machine with poor practice. Thanks 😊 love the channel
Rule 1
Don't put your fingies where you wouldn't put your dingie.
So nice to see work and repair done this way
Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share it
Awesome video Adam. Thank you
Excelent work, tanks for sharing.
That Reed 108 is gorgeous!
thats one hell of a metal eraser on the K&T!
I agree with the others, that is not oilite. Oilite will make fine chips that resemble fine sand.
Looks like he did the bronze not oilite
That looks like C863 manganese bronze, not SAE 863- I’ve done some work with C863 and it cuts exactly like that. It’s a high-pressure, low speed bearing bronze that requires heavy lubrication.
I cant wait to learn more from you on heat treating. I just started doing heat treating a little over a here ago.....
Oilite is definitely the way to go! Kudos for listening to the opinion of a fellow professional.
Great stuff Adam
If you read this would you please give my best regards to Keith fenner!!!!!
That last bit almost looks like your making a big cutter for the shaper :D . If that truly is the case, I am really looking forward to this!
Great job...got my Abom79 fix for the day.....
For a man that earns a living by skilled machine work these video's are HQ and very well made & edited. Bravo
Thank you Harry! 👍🏻
damn that K&T has got some torque an impressive machine @Abom79
Either phosphor bronze or oilite would be the only good choices for that bush. While neither appreciate being machined, their self-lubricating properties make them necessary. I didn't pick up on whether the input shaft will be sent out for heat treat.🤔
Love the little boring bar, it appears to work very slick.
Oilite was the OEM bushing material for Chrysler crankshaft bushings- this exact application.
Cool. Good to see the "null" chuck method. The VanNorman crank machine I used to use got so worn (as all machines do) in middle. Made grinding small cranks a PITA. Large ones were always spot on. Grinding something like a B&S tiny one made me feel a bit uncomfortable...~0.001" wobble. Actually more my worry than anything...those engines really don't care.
Doesn't look like oilite.. Oilite is compressed grains of bronze which is porous and impregnated with oil from the factory.. Usually used in bushings that are impossible to oil such as automobile starters,, etc.. You can take a new piece of oiliite that has not been oiled and heat it with a torch and it will burn with oil coming out of it.....
@Randy G I thought it might be 660 leaded bronze....Oilite would be perfect for that application though as it will be impossible to get lubrication to it once it is together....I think Chrysler Corporation pioneered powdered self lubricating bearings....
That type of bronze would be ok for the older electric motors or other bearings with ring oilers.. I have an old Westinghouse motor in my K&T mill with ring oilers and I used that type of bronze or similar to it for new bearings as they are constantly oiled as the shaft turns..Mike in Louisiana
@Randy G great information there. I have a question from a non-machinist. I read one time that special care must be taken when machining sintered bronze. If it's not done properly, I read that you smear the bronze, closing the pores holding the oil. Do you know if there is any truth to this?
that press tool and a slice of white bread makes a nice removal tool also ;-)
Enjoyed watching ( you know some of us here don't watch television anymore nowadays ), thanks Adam and best regards from New Zealand.