a greeting from Vietnam. I have completed a course with 24 videos of you on how to make a wilton baby. I passed the test and my dream of owning a hand-made copy came true. thank you teacher
Man Tom…you worked on skateboard trucks and dirtbikes? Had no idea you were so cool 🤙 working on both sacred disciplines! Lol 👍👍👍 P.S. Josh is pretty damn lucky to have you helping with his creation.
Good to see you back to making things new again. Tom I have been a subscriber for years and you never have failed to impress me with your skill and humor.
It’s amazing how you start driving a desk because you’re the only one that understands the entire process and before you know it, they’re claiming that you don’t know the machining process. How quickley they forget! Love the video’s as always!
Tom, did you say you worked at Thrasher Magazine?! Can you talk a bit more about that either here or on a future video? Would love to know what you did there.
The blue colorant is a naturally transparent dye. There is no black transparent dye, so they have to use pigment, probably carbon black nano sized particles. Pigment particles are harder to make flow as smoothly as dye. It would be interesting to see if black sharpie marks are thicker than blue marks
love your machining content mate! always something to learn from Tom. That kid should consider himself lucky as to be working along side a Wizard in his craft!
Great to see that you remembered where the on and off switch was on your Lathe Tom. Nice work my friend. Great hanging out with you and the other guys at Chucks get together Saturday. Always a fun time. Gary.
Another great video, Tom. One thing that I like about your video's - is your editing. I especially like that you put the Channel name -And- Video Name - in the Splash Screen. All of your detailed explanations - you are a great instructor!
It's very good to see you doing some machine work again.. The item you are making is typically called a steering stem. The top and bottom parts are called trees or triple trees. The whole assembly is typically called forks. There are some typical fits for that particular part. Generally these parts don't see any heat. I suspect that the evidence of heat means that the stem and lower fork tree are pressed together. Your buddy used heat and press / hammer to drive the stem out of the lower tree. Typically you'll find that the lower machined surface is slightly larger than the top so that the stem has a say mid range tight fit in the lower triple tree and bearing. The lower area may be stepped a very small amount to allow for a light press fit lower bearing. Upper bearing/tree surface is a tight slip fit as that bearing / tree has to move to set bearing clearances. The typical bearing is either a loose ball race or tapered roller bearing. The exception to a press fit on the bottom can happen if the lower tree has clamping bolts for the stem. They typically don't.
Hey Max. Good point. That might be why it was heated to get it out. I measured the existing old shaft and went off that. The buggery on the old one sure didn't help with a good measurement. I'll ask the kiddo. Thanks for the comment. Cheers. Tom
I've been watching TH-cam machining videos for a long time, but I've never seen that obvious-in-hindsight technique of "super perfecting" the start of the hole to give the drill its best chance of success. Neat.
Joe 🥧 made a video about it a couple years ago. Not saying he invented the technique just that the video was out there. This is also not to slam Tom at all either.
Hey there Tom, this stem is the shaft for two pairs of taperred roller or ball bearings that are sandwiched with the two nuts, motorcycle frame is the sandwich internals. Lower bearing is always a tight fit, however top bearing is a easy sliding fit. The two nuts are used to adjust the preload on the bearings so you need one of the bearings (the top that is) to be able to easily slide on the shaft. If it's too tight the adjustment is almost impossible. And the range of adjustment is quite limited there. You might want to drop your top ID half a thou or so for that. (also, for such a light bike making this part from 7075 would work perfectly, much larger bikes use aluminium stems) Glad to see you back thanos
Hi Tom When you put a drawing together as steps it makes it better for the machinist to fabricate. All jobs should be this way. When I was working in a machine shop jobs, less mistakes. When putting a thread on a shaft it is all ways better to put a small radius at the beginning less sharp edges.
I made a triple clamp for a Honda mini bike from a piece of stainless (not sure of the alloy) heavy wall tubing for my buddy. It was one of the worst lathe projects I've ever under taken because of how terrible that mystery stainless machined! I've turned a bunch of 1144 since...and I've thought several times how much easier that project would have been using a more free machining stainless. Good tips on how to go about this project. This tutorial would have saved me a bunch of time and a $35 piece of 1144 would have saved me many hours of my life a few years ago.
I've been a Blue Sharpie convert for a couple years now. I agree they make a wetter mark and last a long time. The green ones are a close second place in my opinion.
Awesome crossover of moto stuff and machining! Very cool. Btw- we call that a steering stem in the industry. He may already be aware, but All Balls Racing sells bearing kits for all sorts of fork conversions like this.
Hey Jon. That might be why the old one was chowdered. Went by the old dimensions so I hope it fits correctly. I'll have to ask the kiddo. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
@@ckvasnic1 Hey Chuck. Actually that was my intent but I got ahead of myself and parted the shaft off to length. Not much left to hold onto for turning it in one whack. Good question!
1144S is such a good material. My favorites are brass and copper, whenever i get to work with tasty chunks of that, i'm in heaven, but this one is a close third on that list. It's such a chill metal. I've several pins and axles, a few non lathe parts like latches and some plates with pins for mechanisms made out of this stuff and it's just such a joy to work with.
Thank you a million times, I have this project on my list and I was wondering about steel and technique. Been romancing 1144 lately and was leaning that way for my steering stem project. Reproducing a Cerriani stem for one of my vintage Italians. I will try the MCLNR and MCLNL with CNMG insert that I just purchased. And final cut around .010 for good finish.
Hope you didn't bozo the fit of the bottom bearing. Every steering stem I've dealt with on dirtbike triple clamps, KTM and Honda, the bottom tapered roller bearing is a press fit and the top bearing is a slip fit. Also, the steering stem itself is a press fit into the lower triple clamp. I've changed out neck bearings in quite a few dirtbikes from racing over the years and the bottom bearing is always a press fit and to remove them I had to press out the stem itself from the lower triple clamp in order to push off the lower bearing. They're in there tight!
Hey Quad. Good point. That might be why it was heated to get it out. I measured the existing old shaft and went off that. The buggery on the old one sure didn't help with a good measurement. I'll ask the kiddo. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
24:50 I'm a fan, not a machinist, but this has me wondering if you'd normally set a stop and have the tool automatically pull away? Or is that a feature limited to CNC lathes? Also, good tip on the blue sharpie. I've had both and gone through a lot more black ones than blue, but didn't actually put 2 and 2 together on that. I shall have to source a pile of blue ones for my projects.
While I like the metal stuff and all, I thought you were now focused on wood stuff? No, eh? Love the gun drilling technique and I mess with old motorcycles as well. Yeah, I am happy! Thanks
Hey Jim. You mean prior to cutting the thread? I normally do them after the fact unless there is some reason to do it first. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
I see a lot of guys cut a groove where the threads ends with a grooving or similiar tool with depth equal to the minor diameter of the thread. I always assumed it was standard practice. I’m very much a novice and do it too, but maybe its not always necessary.
22:10 have you tried Bic marker pens? I swear, those never die. I have one that's been on my work bench long enough that it looks like a relic from the Roman times. Bic permanent marker, i currently have the chisel tip (code 2300). It's a bit unweildy for most, i see some people avoid it specifically because of that, but for me it's just right. I remove the plastic brand thingie from around (not glued, it's shrinkwrapped) and paint it high visibility pink, because i tried leaving them natural for a while and i'd always end up buying another.. and another ... and another, regardless of how tidy i wasy.
I prefer a green sharpie but each to their own I guess. I did a similar fork swap. A few years back. I ended up cutting the steer tube in half and tig welding a section in to get the length I need. Didnt have to cut any threads or bearing surfaces and the welds cleaned up nice on the lathe. Over 15k hard miles on the bike and she ain’t snapped yet.
I love the 1144 but I wondered if the hardness and strength once you remove a bunch of material? Isn’t it “work hardened”? I never want to weld it because I assume it has sulfur in it? I need to make the same kind of part and wondered if I could use that instead of 4140. Fantastic seeing you running your machines again Tom! It was gratifying to see you have to think about the inside mic. I have a hell of a time trying to read mine.
Please consult an engineer. You are literally taking half truths and trying to apply them to reality. Hardness... strength... you're killing me smalls.
@@ShainAndrews you seem to have missed my question marks. I simply do not understand how that material is treated to give it its very good strength. My question relates to the material strength throughout the cross-section. It’s a question which stems from my own and likely flawed interpretation of the material characteristics. The free machining characteristics I believe are from the addition of a sulfur compound as opposed to lead. I’m certainly not trying to kill you. Sorry. Also, I am not at all implying criticism of the material choice. These were questions relative to the material which I too happen to have on my pile. Maybe Tom isn’t an engineer but I feel it is safe for me to assume he has a better understanding of these simple 1144 characteristics than I and I certainly trust his judgment.
Yeah those things make me pause because they read opposite. Classis territory for a bozo moment. I'd rather count than bozo. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom (or community). Noob question here; is the feed synchronized to the rotations to make sure you start at the exact same point everytime while cuttting thread?
Hey Niels. There is a threading dial on the machine so you can engage the feed at the same spot for each cut. This is particular to threading. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Nice work, as always 😊😊 A question, if I may - where did the name Ox Tools come from? And, is the lettering significant or just a logo? And one more - what is your intro music? Any story behind it?
Intro music is off the shelf TH-cam. I seem to recall Tom covering your other questions many years ago. I can feel the answers rolling around in my head... I don't forget much but my access speed is slowing down.
Hey Da. A friend did the logo for me years ago. The Ox came from my wife. I also wanted a generic name that could go in many directions instead of say Toms apple slicing company...Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
@@oxtoolco Now I get it. Your wife has shown both vision and grace with the christening of your You Tube channel. It is not Ox Tool. It’s OX Tool - hug and a kiss. That’s wonderful!
Nice video. Thanks! Nice to see some machine work. I learned a new trick starting a drill with an exact pilot hole. How many RPM were you using to cut the threads? Thanks again!
I seldom use black Sharpies on steel. Just can't see it as well as blue, green or red. I keep all 3 at hand, & use a color code system to help my damaged brain, (literally injury damaged). Green is beginning points, blue is removal & red is stopping point. My bench top lathe is mounted on a laminated bench of 0.5" 6061 T6, 1.125" marble & 2 layers of 0.375" 6061 T6, w/ overlapped joints, on top, for a flat, rigid top. I have a slab of 1" steel in front of the lathe, about 50% of the bed length. The slab is a handy mag mount, as well as an easy erase notepad for detail sketches, dimensions & removal calculations. The multiple colors of Sharpies really helps keep things straight w/o having to rely on a Swiss cheese memory. Living w/ a brain injury takes some extra work to avoid bozo moments, galore. I even prefer brown over black, if I need a 4th color.
Glad to contribute. The only advantage to being brain damaged is my initial perspective on everything is as a noob. I learn a lot more that way. New to machining after decades of wanting to get a lathe & mill. Have the lathe, about to pull the trigger on a mill. I've wondered about bidirectional cutting on the lathe. Sometimes I get a better finish w/ a reversed spring cut. When you faced off the murdercycle part bi-directionally, I felt better about doing it. Thanks. George
Tom, my lathe drawings look almost identical to yours! (diameters on the part or below, lengths above) Unless I'm going to use a carriage stop and gage blocks, (no DRO here) the incremental dimensions are just an invitation to accumulate error, or accidentally omit something like a bozo. Critical features get dimensioned, same as you, to measure directly, or select proper tooling.
I could be wrong here but you didn't need to put the hole threw it. No real reason for it except cheaper. No 2 what was the actual measurement of the old shaft where the bearings ride? If it's .98thousands that's 25mm. Kawasaki would be Metric. Run into this a lot with lawnmower spindles. Metric bearing standard nut. Really like how you showed how to get a true hole threw the center. I need to remember that. Good to see you back.
Hi Tom. Nooo. At 14:15 you had the opportunity to do this correctly. What you should have done was cut a steady band at the chuck end and set a steady rest to that diameter, then when you turn the part around you can set the steady rest away from the chuck and support the part knowing that the bores are going to meet up EXACTLY. When you drill the second side you have no idea how true the part in the spindle is running hence the steady rest. This method eliminates the chance that the bores will not meet up. 27:50 should have done that before starting the screwcutting. 28:30 At this stage you should have the part out of the chuck as much as possible so that you can clock the bearing diameter nearest the chuck and turn turn the other bearing diameter dead true to it. Hope this helps. Best wishes Mal.
Hey Mal. Apparently you have not met my steady rest. For a short shaft like this and the limited access around a steady rest all came out well and the drilled holes met exactly. The length of the chuck jaws are one third of the part length so the risk was pretty low. Appreciate your detailed comment. Cheers, Tom
Just when you thought this guy couldn't be more cool he drops thrasher magazine.... independent trucks
a greeting from Vietnam. I have completed a course with 24 videos of you on how to make a wilton baby. I passed the test and my dream of owning a hand-made copy came true. thank you teacher
Heelll-Yaa! From all of us in the UK! Tom is back!!!
Man Tom…you worked on skateboard trucks and dirtbikes? Had no idea you were so cool 🤙 working on both sacred disciplines! Lol 👍👍👍
P.S. Josh is pretty damn lucky to have you helping with his creation.
Good to see you back to making things new again. Tom I have been a subscriber for years and you never have failed to impress me with your skill and humor.
Hey Mark. Glad you like the show and thanks for the nice comment!
Cheers,
Tom
It’s amazing how you start driving a desk because you’re the only one that understands the entire process and before you know it, they’re claiming that you don’t know the machining process. How quickley they forget! Love the video’s as always!
Hey Ed. In this case they are probably right..... Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, did you say you worked at Thrasher Magazine?! Can you talk a bit more about that either here or on a future video? Would love to know what you did there.
That gun drill-ish technique is really neat.
Thanks (as always) for sharing, Tom.
Joe Pie did a in-depth of it a year or so ago, being even more careful.
Hey Everett. Thanks for the nice comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Blue Sharpie's for the win!!!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Hey Paul. Go blue or go away. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The drill pilot technique seems so obvious after watching it done! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Chad. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good to see you back machining Tom!
The blue colorant is a naturally transparent dye. There is no black transparent dye, so they have to use pigment, probably carbon black nano sized particles. Pigment particles are harder to make flow as smoothly as dye. It would be interesting to see if black sharpie marks are thicker than blue marks
Black is actually thinner, it is about .000118", and blue is .000132", red is .000160". Source: th-cam.com/video/46DBNUfhATo/w-d-xo.html
Didn’t he test this in his “how thick is a sharpie mark video?”
Good stuff Tom! The Moore mug finally seduced me :)
ATB, Robin
love your machining content mate! always something to learn from Tom. That kid should consider himself lucky as to be working along side a Wizard in his craft!
All is right with the world actual machining on Oxtool by the old master. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Hey Harold. Thanks for the kind and gentle words.
Cheers,
Tom
That turning towards the center.....I caught that thx!
Great to see that you remembered where the on and off switch was on your Lathe Tom. Nice work my friend.
Great hanging out with you and the other guys at Chucks get together Saturday. Always a fun time. Gary.
Hey Gary. Good to see you as well. That was a heck of a shop. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Another great video, Tom. One thing that I like about your video's - is your editing. I especially like that you put the Channel name -And- Video Name - in the Splash Screen. All of your detailed explanations - you are a great instructor!
It's very good to see you doing some machine work again.. The item you are making is typically called a steering stem. The top and bottom parts are called trees or triple trees. The whole assembly is typically called forks. There are some typical fits for that particular part. Generally these parts don't see any heat. I suspect that the evidence of heat means that the stem and lower fork tree are pressed together. Your buddy used heat and press / hammer to drive the stem out of the lower tree. Typically you'll find that the lower machined surface is slightly larger than the top so that the stem has a say mid range tight fit in the lower triple tree and bearing. The lower area may be stepped a very small amount to allow for a light press fit lower bearing. Upper bearing/tree surface is a tight slip fit as that bearing / tree has to move to set bearing clearances. The typical bearing is either a loose ball race or tapered roller bearing.
The exception to a press fit on the bottom can happen if the lower tree has clamping bolts for the stem. They typically don't.
Hey Max. Good point. That might be why it was heated to get it out. I measured the existing old shaft and went off that. The buggery on the old one sure didn't help with a good measurement. I'll ask the kiddo. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers.
Tom
Very nice trick boring the pilot hole for that big drill. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Hey Harald. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Glad to see you back on the machines again. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks for sharing.
I've been watching TH-cam machining videos for a long time, but I've never seen that obvious-in-hindsight technique of "super perfecting" the start of the hole to give the drill its best chance of success. Neat.
Joe 🥧 made a video about it a couple years ago. Not saying he invented the technique just that the video was out there. This is also not to slam Tom at all either.
Great to see the Oxtools Tom we all know and love back in action - keep up the good work!
Hey there Tom,
this stem is the shaft for two pairs of taperred roller or ball bearings that are sandwiched with the two nuts, motorcycle frame is the sandwich internals. Lower bearing is always a tight fit, however top bearing is a easy sliding fit. The two nuts are used to adjust the preload on the bearings so you need one of the bearings (the top that is) to be able to easily slide on the shaft. If it's too tight the adjustment is almost impossible. And the range of adjustment is quite limited there. You might want to drop your top ID half a thou or so for that.
(also, for such a light bike making this part from 7075 would work perfectly, much larger bikes use aluminium stems)
Glad to see you back
thanos
Thank you for the effort to film, EDIT and educate us. We value your work Mr Lipton.
Super lathe tutorial! Had never seen the pilot hole technique before. Thanks for passing that along!
Hey Trotter. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Many tips explained greatly, Thank You Tom
Nice job. Didn't know that the shop custodian was allowed use the machines hehe. Also nice job catching Mr. Bozo before he ruined the day again!
Hey DK. Knowing he's in the room is half the battle. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Tom for all the Pro Tips. It makes us all better machinists. 👍👍😎👍👍
Hey Joel. I can say that I have probably made more mistakes than most. The trick is trying to learn from them. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice little project... The 1144 Stressproof sure runs nice, I need to try some on a project. Good one Tom !
Great to see you doing some machining work Tom. Wonderful quality, you haven't lost your touch. Cheers Nobby
Thank you for allowing us to hang out in the shop with you
Hey Leroy. Any time. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good shit Tommy, keep the machine work coming 👌
Hey Aaron. Thanks for the nice comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom
When you put a drawing together as steps it makes it better for the machinist to fabricate. All jobs should be this way. When I was working in a machine shop jobs, less mistakes.
When putting a thread on a shaft it is all ways better to put a small radius at the beginning less sharp edges.
thanks for sharing keep up the good work
Great and informal always enjoy your videos
You worked at Thrasher? Sweet!
Yep. It was quite the contrast to my normal stuff. Learned a lot from the two guys that owned it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Yes Tom,you did everything right.Thank you.
Hey Angel. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Congrats with your new hobby. Machining is fun!
Hey Erik. Hobby is about the size of it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Every episode I learn something new, thanks Tom!
Hey David. Glad to help. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good job Tom. I have done a few Pit Bike mods/forks for a couple of guys.
Hey Randy. Thanks for stopping by. I didn't know they made forks out of wood? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Yeah old School.
Nice work Tom, reminds me of one of your older videos. Really enjoy your content, especially now as I'm moving. It's a welcome distraction.
Hey Bill, Yuck moving. That is a dirty word now. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Yeah moving sucks big time.
Great machining content.
Hey Dan. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Made my day! 🔧👍🏼🧰
Hey Marc. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good one . We do not get 1144 Down Under . A USA only steel .
Yes, you remembered 🎉, nice video, thanks
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I made a triple clamp for a Honda mini bike from a piece of stainless (not sure of the alloy) heavy wall tubing for my buddy. It was one of the worst lathe projects I've ever under taken because of how terrible that mystery stainless machined!
I've turned a bunch of 1144 since...and I've thought several times how much easier that project would have been using a more free machining stainless.
Good tips on how to go about this project. This tutorial would have saved me a bunch of time and a $35 piece of 1144 would have saved me many hours of my life a few years ago.
Hey Jonathon. Sorry my timing for the video didn't save you some work. 1144 is a winner in the lathe. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Finally, welcome back 😊
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
A machining project.. Back in the saddle again huh. Waw that stuff so cool it cuts like brass.
Hey Rex. Get yourself some 1144 to play with. Pretty cool stuff to work with. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Sorry about the pauses poor internet here. Great project. Thanks for sharing.
Please tells us more about your time at Thrasher
I've been a Blue Sharpie convert for a couple years now. I agree they make a wetter mark and last a long time. The green ones are a close second place in my opinion.
Hey Darryl. Have not tested green myself. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Might need to revisit the "How thick is a sharpie mark?" video :)
Awesome crossover of moto stuff and machining! Very cool.
Btw- we call that a steering stem in the industry. He may already be aware, but All Balls Racing sells bearing kits for all sorts of fork conversions like this.
Hey James, Good to know next time the kiddo asks for a steering stem. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
very good video
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for the machining video. Great to see the work and learn some methods.
Hey Jack. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Its called a steering stem bolt, it is pressed into the bottom triple clamp.
Hey Jon. That might be why the old one was chowdered. Went by the old dimensions so I hope it fits correctly. I'll have to ask the kiddo. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
As always... Thanks for the nice video Mr. Wizard. I always learn something. Thank you for sharing your Time and Many Talents. All the Best... Chuck
Hey Chuck. Good to hear from you. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, just curious…. Did you consider turning the complete OD of the part in one setup?
@@ckvasnic1 Hey Chuck. Actually that was my intent but I got ahead of myself and parted the shaft off to length. Not much left to hold onto for turning it in one whack. Good question!
1144S is such a good material. My favorites are brass and copper, whenever i get to work with tasty chunks of that, i'm in heaven, but this one is a close third on that list. It's such a chill metal.
I've several pins and axles, a few non lathe parts like latches and some plates with pins for mechanisms made out of this stuff and it's just such a joy to work with.
Brass yes, but copper nope! Nice to form but horrible to machine IMO. Nasty gummy stuff!
Copper is like chewing gum 😂
1144 is sweet stuff. One of my favorites for sure. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, you always make it look easy. Thanks for the video, some of us "wanna-be's" enjoy it very much.
Thank you a million times, I have this project on my list and I was wondering about steel and technique. Been romancing 1144 lately and was leaning that way for my steering stem project. Reproducing a Cerriani stem for one of my vintage Italians. I will try the MCLNR and MCLNL with CNMG insert that I just purchased. And final cut around .010 for good finish.
Hey Burb. Sounds like my timing was perfect for you! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
26:49. Cratex? Excellent work, as usual. Many thanks.
Rubber sanding block from McMaster. Bright boy or something like that. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hope you didn't bozo the fit of the bottom bearing. Every steering stem I've dealt with on dirtbike triple clamps, KTM and Honda, the bottom tapered roller bearing is a press fit and the top bearing is a slip fit. Also, the steering stem itself is a press fit into the lower triple clamp. I've changed out neck bearings in quite a few dirtbikes from racing over the years and the bottom bearing is always a press fit and to remove them I had to press out the stem itself from the lower triple clamp in order to push off the lower bearing. They're in there tight!
Hey Quad. Good point. That might be why it was heated to get it out. I measured the existing old shaft and went off that. The buggery on the old one sure didn't help with a good measurement. I'll ask the kiddo. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice to see you back on the tools Tom...you mentioned 'work'? I thought you had retired? Great to see you back!!!
Hey Jeff. No still humping the day job for a few more years. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice job as always 👍
Hey Bomb. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
24:50 I'm a fan, not a machinist, but this has me wondering if you'd normally set a stop and have the tool automatically pull away? Or is that a feature limited to CNC lathes?
Also, good tip on the blue sharpie. I've had both and gone through a lot more black ones than blue, but didn't actually put 2 and 2 together on that. I shall have to source a pile of blue ones for my projects.
Request: is it possible to make a set of crimping dies for motorcycle hydraulic brake lines?
Thx for sharing your knowledge. What is difference 1144 and 1145? Can 1144, 1145 be heat treated, welded? Thx
While I like the metal stuff and all, I thought you were now focused on wood stuff? No, eh? Love the gun drilling technique and I mess with old motorcycles as well. Yeah, I am happy! Thanks
Hey Joe. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
very nice work, thanks for the video
Hey Richard. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Does the center hole have a function? If not it could be smaller for additional strength.
Tom
How does that 44 finish compare to the finish on 12L14 ?
Thanks 32:13
Very cool
Why did you not cut a thread relief?
Hey Jim. You mean prior to cutting the thread? I normally do them after the fact unless there is some reason to do it first. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I see a lot of guys cut a groove where the threads ends with a grooving or similiar tool with depth equal to the minor diameter of the thread. I always assumed it was standard practice. I’m very much a novice and do it too, but maybe its not always necessary.
Not sure if anyone else noticed it, but there was a strange "pop" after the drill is removed, at about the 2:10 mark. I can't see what causes it....
Hi Sandi. That may be the locking lever on the tailstock dropping down as I pulled the tailstock back. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks!
Hey John. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
great video - thank you!
Hey Kev. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco hi tom - please let me know how i can help with video/animation.
Machining content AND it being a lightsaber handle to boot! I'm happy ^^
Hey Nick. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
WOW! Machining content! Yea!
Hey Doug. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
22:10 have you tried Bic marker pens? I swear, those never die. I have one that's been on my work bench long enough that it looks like a relic from the Roman times. Bic permanent marker, i currently have the chisel tip (code 2300). It's a bit unweildy for most, i see some people avoid it specifically because of that, but for me it's just right. I remove the plastic brand thingie from around (not glued, it's shrinkwrapped) and paint it high visibility pink, because i tried leaving them natural for a while and i'd always end up buying another.. and another ... and another, regardless of how tidy i wasy.
I would be scared to change. My work process is so ingrained with sharpie I would probably explode. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I prefer a green sharpie but each to their own I guess. I did a similar fork swap. A few years back. I ended up cutting the steer tube in half and tig welding a section in to get the length I need. Didnt have to cut any threads or bearing surfaces and the welds cleaned up nice on the lathe. Over 15k hard miles on the bike and she ain’t snapped yet.
Hey Lee. That is one way to getter done. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks again
Hey Chris. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
When you worked at Thrasher? Do tell
Good stuff Tom 👍....DELICIOUS!!!..👌
Hey De. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
You worked for Thrasher? I feel like there should be a story time. 😂
Covered it many many years ago.
@@ShainAndrews Oh, cool! Do you perhaps recall any details of the video that would help find it?
You worked at thrasher? 😂 the stories you have 😅 🤙
To be sure. Put it in gear, Fenner :-) 19:50
I love the 1144 but I wondered if the hardness and strength once you remove a bunch of material? Isn’t it “work hardened”? I never want to weld it because I assume it has sulfur in it? I need to make the same kind of part and wondered if I could use that instead of 4140. Fantastic seeing you running your machines again Tom! It was gratifying to see you have to think about the inside mic. I have a hell of a time trying to read mine.
Don't weld 1144. No Bueno!
Please consult an engineer. You are literally taking half truths and trying to apply them to reality. Hardness... strength... you're killing me smalls.
@@ShainAndrews you seem to have missed my question marks. I simply do not understand how that material is treated to give it its very good strength. My question relates to the material strength throughout the cross-section. It’s a question which stems from my own and likely flawed interpretation of the material characteristics. The free machining characteristics I believe are from the addition of a sulfur compound as opposed to lead. I’m certainly not trying to kill you. Sorry. Also, I am not at all implying criticism of the material choice. These were questions relative to the material which I too happen to have on my pile. Maybe Tom isn’t an engineer but I feel it is safe for me to assume he has a better understanding of these simple 1144 characteristics than I and I certainly trust his judgment.
Yeah those things make me pause because they read opposite. Classis territory for a bozo moment. I'd rather count than bozo. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom (or community). Noob question here; is the feed synchronized to the rotations to make sure you start at the exact same point everytime while cuttting thread?
Yes, there is numbers to engage the half nut on which keeps tool in same location
Search youtube for thread cutting lathe.... then ask questions.
@@KPSchleyer Thanks, that's a manual action?
Hey Niels. There is a threading dial on the machine so you can engage the feed at the same spot for each cut. This is particular to threading. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco thanks, Tom and KP. That was all I wanted to know.
"...when I worked for Thrasher magazine...? Tom, are you a skater?
No. I ran a R/D shop for them many years ago. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice work, as always 😊😊
A question, if I may - where did the name Ox Tools come from? And, is the lettering significant or just a logo?
And one more - what is your intro music? Any story behind it?
Please include me on the reply. Been curious about the same.
Intro music is off the shelf TH-cam. I seem to recall Tom covering your other questions many years ago. I can feel the answers rolling around in my head... I don't forget much but my access speed is slowing down.
Hey Da. A friend did the logo for me years ago. The Ox came from my wife. I also wanted a generic name that could go in many directions instead of say Toms apple slicing company...Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco thank you for the reply, much appreciated 👍👍😊
Though, I was hoping for some mysterious, exciting back story 😁
@@oxtoolco Now I get it. Your wife has shown both vision and grace with the christening of your You Tube channel. It is not Ox Tool. It’s OX Tool - hug and a kiss. That’s wonderful!
Nice video. Thanks! Nice to see some machine work. I learned a new trick starting a drill with an exact pilot hole. How many RPM were you using to cut the threads? Thanks again!
Hey Greg. Don't quite remember what that was. Probably around 140 or so. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I seldom use black Sharpies on steel. Just can't see it as well as blue, green or red.
I keep all 3 at hand, & use a color code system to help my damaged brain, (literally injury damaged). Green is beginning points, blue is removal & red is stopping point.
My bench top lathe is mounted on a laminated bench of 0.5" 6061 T6, 1.125" marble & 2 layers of 0.375" 6061 T6, w/ overlapped joints, on top, for a flat, rigid top.
I have a slab of 1" steel in front of the lathe, about 50% of the bed length.
The slab is a handy mag mount, as well as an easy erase notepad for detail sketches, dimensions & removal calculations.
The multiple colors of Sharpies really helps keep things straight w/o having to rely on a Swiss cheese memory.
Living w/ a brain injury takes some extra work to avoid bozo moments, galore. I even prefer brown over black, if I need a 4th color.
Hey George. Have not tried the green. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Glad to contribute.
The only advantage to being brain damaged is my initial perspective on everything is as a noob. I learn a lot more that way.
New to machining after decades of wanting to get a lathe & mill. Have the lathe, about to pull the trigger on a mill.
I've wondered about bidirectional cutting on the lathe. Sometimes I get a better finish w/ a reversed spring cut. When you faced off the murdercycle part bi-directionally, I felt better about doing it.
Thanks.
George
Cool vid. What was that you were polishing the threads with?
That that is a rubberized abrasive. It conforms to the shape of the threads. I think the old school brand name is cratex.
Rubberized abrasive block from McMaster. Medium grit. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
👍 that's one luck dude
Hey James. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Steering stem is the proper name.
Tom, my lathe drawings look almost identical to yours! (diameters on the part or below, lengths above) Unless I'm going to use a carriage stop and gage blocks, (no DRO here) the incremental dimensions are just an invitation to accumulate error, or accidentally omit something like a bozo. Critical features get dimensioned, same as you, to measure directly, or select proper tooling.
Hey Kenneth. Glad to meet another chicken sketcher. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, it's called a steering stem. Nice job anyway.
Hey Dave. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Most would call this the steering stem
Hey Jm. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I could be wrong here but you didn't need to put the hole threw it. No real reason for it except cheaper. No 2 what was the actual measurement of the old shaft where the bearings ride? If it's .98thousands that's 25mm. Kawasaki would be Metric. Run into this a lot with lawnmower spindles. Metric bearing standard nut. Really like how you showed how to get a true hole threw the center. I need to remember that. Good to see you back.
Hey John. Just copying the old sample along with journal dimensions as good as I could get them. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom. Nooo. At 14:15 you had the opportunity to do this correctly. What you should have done was cut a steady band at the chuck end and set a steady rest to that diameter, then when you turn the part around you can set the steady rest away from the chuck and support the part knowing that the bores are going to meet up EXACTLY. When you drill the second side you have no idea how true the part in the spindle is running hence the steady rest. This method eliminates the chance that the bores will not meet up. 27:50 should have done that before starting the screwcutting. 28:30 At this stage you should have the part out of the chuck as much as possible so that you can clock the bearing diameter nearest the chuck and turn turn the other bearing diameter dead true to it. Hope this helps. Best wishes Mal.
Hey Mal. Apparently you have not met my steady rest. For a short shaft like this and the limited access around a steady rest all came out well and the drilled holes met exactly. The length of the chuck jaws are one third of the part length so the risk was pretty low. Appreciate your detailed comment.
Cheers,
Tom