I know everybody has their own way and yours seems to work just fine as well. By no means am I saying you’re doing it wrong and would never claim to know it all. I’ve always put down release wax prior to the pva. Reason being you can pull just that much more gloss off your plug. A painted door is a perfect example. Using that wax to buff and gloss that paint up as much as possible before going to sprayed or brushed on release agents can sometimes give you better results. After 9 years of carbon fiber work that has always suited me well. If anything it just makes it that much easier to clean the pva off with water rather than it being mixed with wax. Just a thought and sharing any knowledge (albeit very little lol) I have to maybe help someone out in one way or another. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
I've been doing fiberglass work for around 17 years and have NEVER seen anyone recommend or practice waxing a dried PVA layer. And you're correct, warm water removes PVA better than anything.
@@HAMMER_2.2 *_Maybe I'm off here,_* but that response comes across like an off-hand dismissal. Like scoffing. In which case- the hell for? Just as well, you've done fiberglass for 17 years. OP specifically referred to *_carbon fiber_* and their experience with *_carbon fiber_* And while not a night and day difference in how they're prepared, and how the end products will turn out, from having the same techniques used to produce parts of each material, there are differences. Just because you've never seen it doesn't mean it either doesn't work or hasn't happened. Regardless how much experience you have. Nobody is nor can be omniscient.
@@3xeplodng_3agle_studios Hammer is just confirming what the OP has stated. The technique between working with glass fiber, carbon fiber, polyester or epoxy is exactly the same when it comes to releasing a part or plug from their moulds. I did try to wax pva for testing purposes (been making parts since 2004) and there is nothing wrong with it, just that you can disrupt the PVA layer and could end up with a chemical bound. In the case of the video you would first wax the plug about five times and then apply the PVA, but as Freedom Fries says himself, he's not an expert and by doing, he'll eventually learn. If you wax your part decently, you don't need the PVA and vica versa, but often its used in combination. It also isn't the custom to mix wax in the final layer of the laminate, this is only added to the gelcoat to make it a topcoat since gelcoat never fully cures when it is in contact with the air. In this case it is unnecessary and it only applies when you fix a gelcoat layer or use the plug to make a part without a making a mould.
@@monkeybase01 hey thank you for the levelheaded and genuinely informative response! I really appreciated that, and enjoyed reading it. I see the error in my perception.
Man I’m so glad I clicked on this video. Just started my career in welding/fab as well as composites. I’ve owned my z for about 4 years now and it’s what has got me into my new career
I build boats and work with fiberglass everyday. You did good my man. If it works, it works. I used to forget orders of doing molds etc... due to mostly making repairs in the beginning, sometimes id be surprised it worked out. 9/10 because you forgot to drop am f bomb out of no where every so often.
Enjoyed your video on fiberglass plug making. I built a lot outlaw sprint cars chassis, small blocks chevy. I worked a long time freind learning frame fabrication and engine building. We put a top fuel blower on a small block chevy. That was in 1980. There where no rules except saftey. 18 isky different blower underdrive blower ratios. And finally we could maybe conttol horsepower. It worked like dragcar on mile track. We blew the crank out of it. Blew oul pan off. Picture of explosion was on COVER OF OPEN WHEEL MAGAZINE
I put the releaseing wax on before the pva.and I spray on the pva in very light mist coats so no brush marks.then the same when making the part from the mould and the finish then comes out with a slight orang peel. A tyvex suit helps with the itch
Okay so'ooo l've been watching fiberglass videos for awhile now--an this process just seemed more broken down to my entry level understanding thank you like a 💯
@@freedomfriestv thank you for the good and informative video. I am in the process of making a cowl hood for my 70 Cougar. Right now it is still the steel hood but I want to make a fiberglass one from the steel hood. I have never used fiberglass. 1st question, do you think the materials you made the door skin from will hold up to the heat from being a hood. 2nd question, where can I get all the materials you used to make the mold/plug and the final product? I'm not finding any "fiberglass kits" and have no idea what to start looking for. I went on Eastwoods website but was lost what to get. Thank you brother and I too enjoy a pinch of snuff 😁
@@nova467spanker You may look into using a high temp epoxy if you're really concerned about the heat or maybe layering gold reflective tape along the inside to assist. I get my materials from fiberglasssupplydepot. You'll need a tooling gel coat, fiberglass mat, release wax, and PVA for the mold. (among other odds and ends) You'll need quite a bit of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin for the creation of the actual hood. Definitely buy a few cheap paint brushes, a metal roller to remove bubbles, wax additive for curing the resin, whatever flashing/hot glue for creation of the mold. (respirator as many have mentioned as well) GOOD LUCK BROTHER!
@@freedomfriestv cool man thank you. I will visit that website. Im probably gonna do 3 or 4 layers from the mold and then glass in some under bracing. Im still far off from my hood im making. Still some metal fab work, cutting and welding to do.
Hey man!!!! I accidentally clicked on your video and was gonna get out of it but heard you start off by saying that was the largest shirt painless made and right away I said this guy is hilarious and I'm glad I watched your video. I learned a lot man and I love the American Flag in the background. More people need to start putting their flags out. Anyways I'm thinking about doing my front fenders and hood in carbon fiber and so your video helped out a lot. Thanks again!!!!!
Thanks for the compliments man!! I really really want to get into more fabrication and carbon fiber when I get back to the ole USA - So, maybe we will be knocking out projects at the same time!
Love the video bro, much respect. Looking to do a project getting materials together. Thanks for taking your time to help others figure this stuff out.
Hey dude I appreciate the compliment. Don't add wax to the gelcoat, but to the final layer of resin/fiberglass. I only add wax to gelcoat when I'm doing gelcoat repairs.
Its just a black gelcoat. Similar to what the mold is made up of and typically how most fiberglass parts come from companies (notice theyre usually white rather than standard yellow+fiber that a fiberglass part would be without paint)
I understand.... seriously ! I just watched you make two fiberglass body parts . If we had in mind an entire car body this simply wouldnt be feasable .Great video and explanation... just not what I need.
Wearing paper on your face to protect against silicosis while cutting fiberglass with a rotary saw is self-harm. Do not do it even once. Plz PPE properly
Id like to make a fiberglass hood fro my 2001 Jeep XJ as it seems no one makes them anymore. I make fiberglass prop replicas si i know my way around fiberglass and silicone molds, but was looking for something to show me how to make a mold from my exisiting hood and i think this will do the trick! Thanks for posting!
I've built many molds and fiberglass parts over the last 30 years so I am very curious about one of your procedures. The standard practice is to wax and polish the mold then spray on a coat of PVA. Is there a particular reason that you put down your PVA and then wax ? The PVA film is very thin and delicate so I am surprised that waxing over it and then buffing didn't damage the PVA layer. Please don't feel like I am picking on you I am just very curious, maybe you hit on something I am not aware of. Good luck with your project.
I started with making molds not so long ago and i was thinking the same. Not to bash the guy becouse he did a great job. But it seemed strange to add pva first and wax after it.
Hi there . When PVA is fully dry, there is no problem to put wax. The eventual problem will be , when PVA is layed , there is so much dust in the air (the dust and garbage is everywhere), and stick. When you apply the wax maybe with the rag you can probably hang some of the sticky garbage and peel it. I do it from years , and there is no problem .
Honestly you're probably right about the process, but I was able to carefully buff without damaging the PVA. That being said, the PVA was on there TOO thick. I changed to wax then HVLP spray the PVA since this video. Appreciate the comment though!
When mixing and air pockets aren't an issue, i use a drill with a wisk or a paint mixer on it. I would have also removed the door handle and had the stock type flange to remount the handle.
Now you should do a carbon fiber skinning over it lol I want to do something similar and make carbon fiber fenders. Doing this plug first, then Fiberglass part in your video first would make them much lighter than the steel versions available for my vehicle, that I would have to lay carbon fiber over.
Carbon is the next step! I'll be getting vacuum infusion equipment in the future. You can definitely do without, but if you've seen ECO-LAP Studio... it's a lot of work!
You helped me make up my mind so I thank you and Im gonna use fiberglass for my project...Only question is do you have to be balls on accurate with the chemical mixing? And thanks for the lesson.
Not terribly. More activator makes it cure faster (but too much will cause it to heat enough to catch fire - but it takes A LOT extra). Not enough wont let it cure ever. Just order supplies from a reputable fiberglass dealer and they'll come with measuring tools usually.
Just for your own well being, I'd suggest a half mask respirator, not a dust mask (the kind that makes you look like Bane from the Batman movie). I have to look at mine, because I forgot what filters I use, but I think they are P100. It's very important the damage from the dust and the fumes can be irreparable.
I mean you want the kind that looks like Banes mask with the two filters. You don't need a full face, but I personally prefer the full face when I'm grinding or cutting. It's the only way to keep the dust out of my eyes. Safety glasses are useless for fiberglass dust and goggles don't seal properly around a respirator. What I use is a full face to cut and a half to mess with the chemicals.
I have! His channel gives some really good content for ideas. He obviously has a TON of experience to get such good product out of the way he does it. Incredibly impressive!
Tip depending on time and temp i would keep another bucket or cup of acitone for cleaning tools and brushes in case the resin starts pulling your glass a squirt bottle like the ones for condiments then if arm starts burning you can clean that as well
Typically, fiberglass matting would be the 1st layer, as it's easier to conform to the shape of the object you are making. Then the 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc. layer you'd use FC as that has strength and not as easy to conform without cutting reliefs.
Very detailed video. Enjoyed learning the process. Also considering making some fiberglass molds for personal use. Would you be able to get us a break down of all the materials needed and where you recommend to purchase these from, to accommodate best quality and price?
Gladly! For a mold: PVA Release Agent Mold Release Wax Tooling Gelcoat (can be painted on) Iso Resin Fiberglass Mat (You'll want 3 layers of the thick stuff) Measuring Pail Metal roller (to get bubbles out) I get my stuff from fiberglasssupplydepot.com (they should sponsor me!) Sorry for the late reply!
@@freedomfriestvdo you need to use pva and wax release agent as I've seen a couple of videos and someone just used wax and someone else just used pva ?
Hello sir thank you so much for your video, you have gained a new sub, I have some questions for my vehicle, I have a 1995 Acura Integra and there’s this project I want to do, but the bodykit I have is all fiberglass and it is an MR2 TRD wide body kit , I want to install this to my Integra because I saw someone do it and I have pictures, is there any chance I could send you a message and show you the pictures? If you could by any chance explain or give me a little tips on pursuing my project, I will greatly appreciate it
@@freedomfriestv could I send you pictures of the project I wanna do just so you can give me a little bit of tips , I work at a bodyshop but unfortunately some of my coworkers don’t rlly give me the best tips because I still don’t understand
cool video, have watched a few. Yours is the first I've come across that mentions the wax in the resin, I guess others are doing that to. but yea found that very interesting, cheers
Fabric mask will do more harm than good with layup vapour fumes, (only good for sanding). Gentle electric fan feeding upstream air flow is best way to mitigate fumes. Upwind is the key. When spraying, cartridge mask AND good goggles to mitigate the aerosols (5 micron and up) help. Alot of the harm from MEKP comes though eyes. (fumes need gentle fan, as cart mask does little for the vapour fumes ). I reckon I've mixed up a good 30-50 tonnes of resin over the years. And didn't turn into Golum
If you're using thermocol to make your mould, what material could you apply on top so its smooth before the wax? Can we put a layer of gelcoat itself on the positive mould?
Sweet! Post up when you are ready 2 sell a pair my drift car goes in for paint in about 6 weeks and I'd like 2 get me a set so I dont have 2 replace mine. I gutted my doors out so I can run "nascar style" door bars and I dont want to cut out another door
I’m new to this. I’m a old school body guy . But why are you making a bolt on fiberglass door skin ? Do you put it over the steel door skin ? I’m not getting the whole thing ? Anyone can enlighten me I would appreciate it
We crush doors pretty often in racing. The factory 350z has OEM door bars, so the door structure itself is 99% of the time fine but aesthetically not the most pleasing thing. Because we do it so often, its much easier to just bolt a skin on rather than swap doors every month or so.
The more flimsy a product, the more difficult. You can setup a jig to have it mounted as it would be on the bike and then run the flashing for your run off or get real weird and find a way to do it while its mounted on the bike (messy though)
Yes. Only issue I face when brushing on is the difficulty of getting the fiberglass backing to completely connect due to the grooves left by the brush.
So I'm still a student and I'm looking for advice. I have a foam wide body kit I built and put body filler all over to try to even it out and make it smooth. I thought I put tape all over this before I start my fiberglass moldings. I do need like a little extra at the tops for like the edge like you're doing but do I just use that wax or should I put tape all over it first? Any help as much appreciated these are huge moldings biggest I've ever done. Thanks
It kind of depends on your goal. The flange I placed around the piece was because it helps to release the item and it's needed for vacuum infusion. All of this was made to be reproduced MANY times. If weight isn't much of a concern - After doing bondo you can either do tape or what I prefer to do is rattle can the bondo with primer and preferably a topcoat. Apply PVA release (the green stuff in the video) then apply release wax (make sure to buff off). Then you can simply lay down your fiberglass and pull that from your plug (the foam/bondo piece). A mold (the red piece I lay my fiberglass into) will create a better/lighter piece, but will at least triple the cost vs just laying fiberglass over what you've already created.
@@freedomfriestv okay that makes sense thank you very much I appreciate your help I'm an auto body collision repair student just working on my own stuff and still kind of learning. I've made fiberglass moldings of small pieces and I've built stereo boxes but it's different to do a whole body kit. Thank u
Hey just a question man I do carbon fiber parts and I saw you do something backwards or I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time you applied the PVA first then waxed the part
To Mr. Fries and everyone else, please always wear a respirator and if u don’t have a half decent one, put something on please. Can never be too safe. Look after your selves !!
Thank you! I used Fiberglass Supply Depot for the products. I would probably use West System or Fibreglast products for resin if I was doing carbon/infusion, but I've had NO issues with these products.
Would these work if I’m trying to make a mold for carbon? Make the mold then use it to make the finaly carbon part? I purchased a kit a while back used it 1 from carbon composites I purchased a entire kit wit vacuum pump bags etc
I didnt use fillet wax, but wish I could have. This is simply plasticine model clay. Pain in the butt to clean, but some dawn dish soap in a cup of water and a bristle brush makes semi quick work of the excess after its peeled away.
@@freedomfriestv ah, gotcha. Thank you for the reply! I ended up ordering a couple packs of that Fill-it clay from FiberglassSupplyDepot which I believe is what you're talking about.
My project is a clear hood for my 89 f150. I’m gonna pour epoxy in the mold but need to figure out how to get the latches and bolt holes in the mix too because I want it to be functional like factory but still transparent. What do I gotta do to keep epoxy from sticking to fiberglass? Is it same basic technique? Got all new chrome pulleys and water pump and timing cover and even valve covers on my 351w along with aluminum intake and 4 barrel but can’t show it off unless hood is open.
I am not sure how to manage the clear epoxy hood - I think most people use lexan for the clear hoods. I'd check out Easy Composites LTD youtube channel to see how they managed to get the bolt holes and everything secured to the composite hood. Good luck with the project man!
Great how to! Much better than most I've come across. When it comes to doing something like a sunroof plug, would it be the same steps, essentially, even though it's glass?
Thank you! Yeah, just make sure to seal off separations with molding clay so the gelcoat doesnt seep into any cracks. Good luck and I hope it goes well!
You definitely could. Either a hard top replacement for the soft top or a full replacement like the normal 350z roofline. Would just take a bit of work and like 2 molds. (so I'd expect around $1,000 in material)
Yes. Wax, resin, Matt will make 1 part. You will need to do work to make the part look good. Gelcoat will make a mold so you can make many pieces with a perfect look every time.
What if your mold / plug is going to be part of the construction of what your building? I want to build a motorhome hull, so the mold will be part of the interior construction.
Actually its a clay called plasticine. Significantly cheaper than importing filleting wax from the UK. Downside is clean up is a pain, but a plastic bristle brush and water+dawn dish soap does the trick!
The piece releases easy enough that it wasn't necessary to reinforce the mold like this. Definitely would do that for something like a bumper or anything more complex than a slightly curved flat piece
What are the odds I total my Wrap on my done car when doing this process to replicate my One off Evo Over/flares to include the entire quarter panel and rear door ? or will the wax be a good enough barrier do you think?
Wrap would likely get ruined. I've considered using wrap as a release agent but have read it doesn't work well. The heat build up from the fiberglass/gelcoat and the possibility of materials running is definitely high. I'd actually pull off the wrap from the panel before trying to replicate. Sorry man
@@freedomfriestv it's all good I have voltex flares on top of b magic overs. Turbo Coyote swapped Evo drift car 🤘🏻. So I full expect to ruin something. I appreciate the reply!!
PVA first. Would recommend picking up a HVLP paint gun from harbor freight for $20 to spray on the PVA. Much easier/better release vs painting it on. That being said, I painted it on prior to learning this and had no major issues (outside of runs imprinting on the gelcoat).
All them white spots in the fiberglass mat it all air and is dry you need to add more resin to them areas that mold is very weak also, you can get away with only using paste wax for a much better finished part.
When someone scores too low on the ASAVB for a job they can get a waiver to still enlist. Yes its real. No I did not get an ASVAB waiver.. So I guess it's a bit of rude shirt.
I WISH IT WAS FILLETING WAX. I used plasticine (modeling clay/oil based clay). It's a pain to clean, but dawn dish soap and a plastic bristle brush does wonders. The clay is expensive but I've reused the couple lbs I purchased about 4 times.
I know everybody has their own way and yours seems to work just fine as well. By no means am I saying you’re doing it wrong and would never claim to know it all. I’ve always put down release wax prior to the pva. Reason being you can pull just that much more gloss off your plug. A painted door is a perfect example. Using that wax to buff and gloss that paint up as much as possible before going to sprayed or brushed on release agents can sometimes give you better results. After 9 years of carbon fiber work that has always suited me well. If anything it just makes it that much easier to clean the pva off with water rather than it being mixed with wax. Just a thought and sharing any knowledge (albeit very little lol) I have to maybe help someone out in one way or another. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
I've been doing fiberglass work for around 17 years and have NEVER seen anyone recommend or practice waxing a dried PVA layer. And you're correct, warm water removes PVA better than anything.
@@HAMMER_2.2 *_Maybe I'm off here,_* but that response comes across like an off-hand dismissal. Like scoffing. In which case- the hell for?
Just as well, you've done fiberglass for 17 years. OP specifically referred to *_carbon fiber_* and their experience with *_carbon fiber_*
And while not a night and day difference in how they're prepared, and how the end products will turn out, from having the same techniques used to produce parts of each material, there are differences. Just because you've never seen it doesn't mean it either doesn't work or hasn't happened. Regardless how much experience you have. Nobody is nor can be omniscient.
@@3xeplodng_3agle_studios Hammer is just confirming what the OP has stated. The technique between working with glass fiber, carbon fiber, polyester or epoxy is exactly the same when it comes to releasing a part or plug from their moulds.
I did try to wax pva for testing purposes (been making parts since 2004) and there is nothing wrong with it, just that you can disrupt the PVA layer and could end up with a chemical bound. In the case of the video you would first wax the plug about five times and then apply the PVA, but as Freedom Fries says himself, he's not an expert and by doing, he'll eventually learn. If you wax your part decently, you don't need the PVA and vica versa, but often its used in combination.
It also isn't the custom to mix wax in the final layer of the laminate, this is only added to the gelcoat to make it a topcoat since gelcoat never fully cures when it is in contact with the air. In this case it is unnecessary and it only applies when you fix a gelcoat layer or use the plug to make a part without a making a mould.
@@monkeybase01 hey thank you for the levelheaded and genuinely informative response! I really appreciated that, and enjoyed reading it. I see the error in my perception.
@3xeplodng_well said sir 3agle_studios
Man I’m so glad I clicked on this video. Just started my career in welding/fab as well as composites. I’ve owned my z for about 4 years now and it’s what has got me into my new career
Thats awesome man! I've just got back to the USA and will be starting back up. Lets connect on IG!
I build boats and work with fiberglass everyday. You did good my man. If it works, it works. I used to forget orders of doing molds etc... due to mostly making repairs in the beginning, sometimes id be surprised it worked out. 9/10 because you forgot to drop am f bomb out of no where every so often.
Your ASVAB Waiver t-shirt is OUTSTANDING!!!
Thanks man! It's my favorite thing I own!
Great real life imperfect tutorial. I just painted a truck hood...in the street...on a windy day. Living the dream :)
I don't envy painting a hood in the street haha!
Enjoyed your video on fiberglass plug making. I built a lot outlaw sprint cars chassis, small blocks chevy. I worked a long time freind learning frame fabrication and engine building. We put a top fuel blower on a small block chevy. That was in 1980. There where no rules except saftey. 18 isky different blower underdrive blower ratios. And finally we could maybe conttol horsepower. It worked like dragcar on mile track. We blew the crank out of it. Blew oul pan off. Picture of explosion was on COVER OF OPEN WHEEL MAGAZINE
I wish I had even half of the fabrication experience you had!
I put the releaseing wax on before the pva.and I spray on the pva in very light mist coats so no brush marks.then the same when making the part from the mould and the finish then comes out with a slight orang peel. A tyvex suit helps with the itch
This is definitely the correct method! Learned after making this video!
Okay so'ooo l've been watching fiberglass videos for awhile now--an this process just seemed more broken down to my entry level understanding thank you like a 💯
Glad to hear it! Let me know if I can help at all!
@@freedomfriestv thank you for the good and informative video. I am in the process of making a cowl hood for my 70 Cougar. Right now it is still the steel hood but I want to make a fiberglass one from the steel hood. I have never used fiberglass.
1st question, do you think the materials you made the door skin from will hold up to the heat from being a hood.
2nd question, where can I get all the materials you used to make the mold/plug and the final product?
I'm not finding any "fiberglass kits" and have no idea what to start looking for. I went on Eastwoods website but was lost what to get.
Thank you brother and I too enjoy a pinch of snuff 😁
@@nova467spanker You may look into using a high temp epoxy if you're really concerned about the heat or maybe layering gold reflective tape along the inside to assist.
I get my materials from fiberglasssupplydepot.
You'll need a tooling gel coat, fiberglass mat, release wax, and PVA for the mold. (among other odds and ends)
You'll need quite a bit of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin for the creation of the actual hood.
Definitely buy a few cheap paint brushes, a metal roller to remove bubbles, wax additive for curing the resin, whatever flashing/hot glue for creation of the mold. (respirator as many have mentioned as well) GOOD LUCK BROTHER!
@@freedomfriestv cool man thank you. I will visit that website. Im probably gonna do 3 or 4 layers from the mold and then glass in some under bracing. Im still far off from my hood im making. Still some metal fab work, cutting and welding to do.
Thanks for the breakdown. I have some things I need to make, and this explained the mold making process enough to get dangerous!
That’s all I can hope for!! Get to it!
Hey man!!!! I accidentally clicked on your video and was gonna get out of it but heard you start off by saying that was the largest shirt painless made and right away I said this guy is hilarious and I'm glad I watched your video. I learned a lot man and I love the American Flag in the background. More people need to start putting their flags out. Anyways I'm thinking about doing my front fenders and hood in carbon fiber and so your video helped out a lot. Thanks again!!!!!
Thanks for the compliments man!! I really really want to get into more fabrication and carbon fiber when I get back to the ole USA - So, maybe we will be knocking out projects at the same time!
Great video to me the process went smooth.. that asvab waiver shirt took the show over,, good stuff 👌
Love the "ASVAB WAIVER" shirt! Reminds me of some of my Marines.
Love the video bro, much respect. Looking to do a project getting materials together. Thanks for taking your time to help others figure this stuff out.
Hey dude I appreciate the compliment. Don't add wax to the gelcoat, but to the final layer of resin/fiberglass. I only add wax to gelcoat when I'm doing gelcoat repairs.
Hello! Nice video, I wonder on 15:40 you are using some type of black paint/liquid, I wonder what is it?
Its just a black gelcoat. Similar to what the mold is made up of and typically how most fiberglass parts come from companies (notice theyre usually white rather than standard yellow+fiber that a fiberglass part would be without paint)
Nicely done!
Thank you!
I understand.... seriously ! I just watched you make two fiberglass body parts . If we had in mind an entire car body this simply wouldnt be feasable .Great video and explanation... just not what I need.
Done is better than perfect, great video. 👍🏼
Great vid and great editing, very informative many thanks.
I really appreciate the compliment! Thank you!
@freedomfriestv Any new content coming?
NO RESPIRATOR IS CRAZY HOLY SHIT
Wearing paper on your face to protect against silicosis while cutting fiberglass with a rotary saw is self-harm. Do not do it even once.
Plz PPE properly
Id like to make a fiberglass hood fro my 2001 Jeep XJ as it seems no one makes them anymore. I make fiberglass prop replicas si i know my way around fiberglass and silicone molds, but was looking for something to show me how to make a mold from my exisiting hood and i think this will do the trick! Thanks for posting!
That’s so cool! The possibilities are endless now that you have the steps down...
Love the "ASVAB Waiver" shirt!!!!
I've built many molds and fiberglass parts over the last 30 years so I am very curious about one of your procedures. The standard practice is to wax and polish the mold then spray on a coat of PVA. Is there a particular reason that you put down your PVA and then wax ? The PVA film is very thin and delicate so I am surprised that waxing over it and then buffing didn't damage the PVA layer. Please don't feel like I am picking on you I am just very curious, maybe you hit on something I am not aware of. Good luck with your project.
I started with making molds not so long ago and i was thinking the same. Not to bash the guy becouse he did a great job. But it seemed strange to add pva first and wax after it.
Hi there . When PVA is fully dry, there is no problem to put wax. The eventual problem will be , when PVA is layed , there is so much dust in the air (the dust and garbage is everywhere), and stick. When you apply the wax maybe with the rag you can probably hang some of the sticky garbage and peel it. I do it from years , and there is no problem .
Honestly you're probably right about the process, but I was able to carefully buff without damaging the PVA. That being said, the PVA was on there TOO thick. I changed to wax then HVLP spray the PVA since this video. Appreciate the comment though!
When mixing and air pockets aren't an issue, i use a drill with a wisk or a paint mixer on it. I would have also removed the door handle and had the stock type flange to remount the handle.
Great video bro. Would have been really nice if you had put links for everything you are using in the description or something...
Now you should do a carbon fiber skinning over it lol I want to do something similar and make carbon fiber fenders.
Doing this plug first, then Fiberglass part in your video first would make them much lighter than the steel versions available for my vehicle, that I would have to lay carbon fiber over.
Carbon is the next step! I'll be getting vacuum infusion equipment in the future. You can definitely do without, but if you've seen ECO-LAP Studio... it's a lot of work!
New subscriber 😀 Keep up these cool DIY videos
Thank you! Planning on it soon!
You helped me make up my mind so I thank you and Im gonna use fiberglass for my project...Only question is do you have to be balls on accurate with the chemical mixing? And thanks for the lesson.
Not terribly. More activator makes it cure faster (but too much will cause it to heat enough to catch fire - but it takes A LOT extra). Not enough wont let it cure ever.
Just order supplies from a reputable fiberglass dealer and they'll come with measuring tools usually.
The cardboard tube the cloth is wrapped on can be epoxied on the outside for a strengthening framework if you are making more than one off.
I like that now I can make molds for my 1971. Toyota ☝🏻👍🏼✌🏽
Awesome man! Get it!
Nice shirt! Asvab waiver
The most informative video out there. Thanks. Subscribed
“Super toxic stuff, i should be wearing a respirator”…continues anyways😂
Just for your own well being, I'd suggest a half mask respirator, not a dust mask (the kind that makes you look like Bane from the Batman movie). I have to look at mine, because I forgot what filters I use, but I think they are P100. It's very important the damage from the dust and the fumes can be irreparable.
I mean you want the kind that looks like Banes mask with the two filters. You don't need a full face, but I personally prefer the full face when I'm grinding or cutting. It's the only way to keep the dust out of my eyes. Safety glasses are useless for fiberglass dust and goggles don't seal properly around a respirator.
What I use is a full face to cut and a half to mess with the chemicals.
@@johndohnson7902 Thanks man! I've invested in one since this video - definitely wasn't healthy beforehand...
Loved everythig about your vid. Liked and subscribed fo sho!
Thank you very much! I appreciate the kind words!
Great Tutorial! Keep up the awesome videos bro!
Thanks brother! Your comments at the start of me making videos is what really pushed me to continue!
You are a lifesaver!! I am trying to make a duplicate of this piece!!
@
if you have any suggestions please let me know
Thanks, have you watched any WJP004 fiberglass vids? I've learned sooooo much from that guy.
I have! His channel gives some really good content for ideas. He obviously has a TON of experience to get such good product out of the way he does it. Incredibly impressive!
Tip depending on time and temp i would keep another bucket or cup of acitone for cleaning tools and brushes in case the resin starts pulling your glass a squirt bottle like the ones for condiments then if arm starts burning you can clean that as well
Typically, fiberglass matting would be the 1st layer, as it's easier to conform to the shape of the object you are making. Then the 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc. layer you'd use FC as that has strength and not as easy to conform without cutting reliefs.
Thanks for the tip! I haven't seen it done that way and look forward to trying it out!
@@freedomfriestv no problem brother. 🤙#LGBFJB
I like you man your work is awesome. Go on ,Mohammad Adil from Iraq
thank you brother!
No, thank you 🙏 😊
Very detailed video. Enjoyed learning the process. Also considering making some fiberglass molds for personal use. Would you be able to get us a break down of all the materials needed and where you recommend to purchase these from, to accommodate best quality and price?
Gladly!
For a mold:
PVA Release Agent
Mold Release Wax
Tooling Gelcoat (can be painted on)
Iso Resin
Fiberglass Mat (You'll want 3 layers of the thick stuff)
Measuring Pail
Metal roller (to get bubbles out)
I get my stuff from fiberglasssupplydepot.com (they should sponsor me!)
Sorry for the late reply!
@@freedomfriestv Thanks so much
@@freedomfriestvdo you need to use pva and wax release agent as I've seen a couple of videos and someone just used wax and someone else just used pva ?
Hello sir thank you so much for your video, you have gained a new sub, I have some questions for my vehicle, I have a 1995 Acura Integra and there’s this project I want to do, but the bodykit I have is all fiberglass and it is an MR2 TRD wide body kit , I want to install this to my Integra because I saw someone do it and I have pictures, is there any chance I could send you a message and show you the pictures? If you could by any chance explain or give me a little tips on pursuing my project, I will greatly appreciate it
Hey brother! I love projects like that. I'd love to give advice (its going to be a pain!)
@@freedomfriestv alrighty man I’m all for it I’m been dreaming of learning for a long time. Where do you want me to send you the pictures ?
@@freedomfriestv could I send you pictures of the project I wanna do just so you can give me a little bit of tips , I work at a bodyshop but unfortunately some of my coworkers don’t rlly give me the best tips because I still don’t understand
cool video, have watched a few. Yours is the first I've come across that mentions the wax in the resin, I guess others are doing that to. but yea found that very interesting, cheers
Fabric mask will do more harm than good with layup vapour fumes, (only good for sanding). Gentle electric fan feeding upstream air flow is best way to mitigate fumes. Upwind is the key. When spraying, cartridge mask AND good goggles to mitigate the aerosols (5 micron and up) help. Alot of the harm from MEKP comes though eyes. (fumes need gentle fan, as cart mask does little for the vapour fumes ). I reckon I've mixed up a good 30-50 tonnes of resin over the years. And didn't turn into Golum
Thank you for the advice! I'll definitely be purchasing some better safety gear when I get back to the USA.
If you're using thermocol to make your mould, what material could you apply on top so its smooth before the wax? Can we put a layer of gelcoat itself on the positive mould?
By bolt on you mean drill holes through the skin attaching it to door? Will that panel bond glue stuff that corvettes use work? Thanks
You could likely epoxy or panel bond it. I havent tested a tire rub against it - but most people just riveted them on.
@@freedomfriestv thank you I’m going to be trying this hopefully soon
Are you goin 2 sell them? Thats bad ass man good work!
Yes sir! Probably $350 for the pair. Has to be cheaper than replacing doors right?
Sweet! Post up when you are ready 2 sell a pair my drift car goes in for paint in about 6 weeks and I'd like 2 get me a set so I dont have 2 replace mine. I gutted my doors out so I can run "nascar style" door bars and I dont want to cut out another door
I usually pull the newly laid grp
After a few hours .. then refit back … releasing can be a pain
Solid video
Thank you!
I’m new to this. I’m a old school body guy . But why are you making a bolt on fiberglass door skin ? Do you put it over the steel door skin ? I’m not getting the whole thing ? Anyone can enlighten me I would appreciate it
We crush doors pretty often in racing. The factory 350z has OEM door bars, so the door structure itself is 99% of the time fine but aesthetically not the most pleasing thing. Because we do it so often, its much easier to just bolt a skin on rather than swap doors every month or so.
I like the asvab waiver shirt 😂
this is what im looking for!! big thanx
heey late to the show but how can i do this to a motorcycle headlight fairing? they are way flimzyer and wirdly shaped.
The more flimsy a product, the more difficult. You can setup a jig to have it mounted as it would be on the bike and then run the flashing for your run off or get real weird and find a way to do it while its mounted on the bike (messy though)
@@freedomfriestv sanding and painting souds way more doeble on that part then.
Will it be smooth even if a spray gun isn't used for applying the gel coat?
Yes. Only issue I face when brushing on is the difficulty of getting the fiberglass backing to completely connect due to the grooves left by the brush.
So I'm still a student and I'm looking for advice. I have a foam wide body kit I built and put body filler all over to try to even it out and make it smooth. I thought I put tape all over this before I start my fiberglass moldings. I do need like a little extra at the tops for like the edge like you're doing but do I just use that wax or should I put tape all over it first? Any help as much appreciated these are huge moldings biggest I've ever done. Thanks
It kind of depends on your goal. The flange I placed around the piece was because it helps to release the item and it's needed for vacuum infusion. All of this was made to be reproduced MANY times.
If weight isn't much of a concern - After doing bondo you can either do tape or what I prefer to do is rattle can the bondo with primer and preferably a topcoat. Apply PVA release (the green stuff in the video) then apply release wax (make sure to buff off). Then you can simply lay down your fiberglass and pull that from your plug (the foam/bondo piece).
A mold (the red piece I lay my fiberglass into) will create a better/lighter piece, but will at least triple the cost vs just laying fiberglass over what you've already created.
@@freedomfriestv okay that makes sense thank you very much I appreciate your help I'm an auto body collision repair student just working on my own stuff and still kind of learning. I've made fiberglass moldings of small pieces and I've built stereo boxes but it's different to do a whole body kit. Thank u
Nice video. I don't think I could risk messing up 1000$worth of material myself though.
I know you could manage these projects. I ordered significantly more because I wanted to jump head into it all!
Use west system as a try it before you commit to it. Practice on small parts.
Hey just a question man I do carbon fiber parts and I saw you do something backwards or I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time you applied the PVA first then waxed the part
Ive learned this and very surprised I had such an easy release this entire time! Thanks for the comment!
To Mr. Fries and everyone else, please always wear a respirator and if u don’t have a half decent one, put something on please. Can never be too safe. Look after your selves !!
Great advice. Definitely have a respirator now!
Ya I need A Fiber Glass Left Rear Quarter But Its Toast No making. A Mold With That
Probably best to just grab a set from Crown Carbon Crafting
Minute @5:30 the mood changed for the door making :(. It’s okay man it seem like you where a little overwhelmed. Keep at it bro 👌🏼
If I remember correctly, my dump gun was acting up - so improvise and adapt! Definitely a downer though! I appreciate the comment brother!
@@freedomfriestv of course! Thank you for the video. Very soon I’ll be making a mold for a lip I’ll be reproducing
@@josebarbosagarcia550 Awesome man! Are you posting anything about it on any social media?
@@freedomfriestv what’s your social?
Cool video dude.
Thanks man!
Would an auto body course teach me more about this type of work?
Possibly, but more likely you'd look into composite courses for aerospace.
Nice explanation on the process! Are the products you used all from the same supplier?
Thank you! I used Fiberglass Supply Depot for the products. I would probably use West System or Fibreglast products for resin if I was doing carbon/infusion, but I've had NO issues with these products.
That was excellent, ton of info, great editing. 'Splain to me why you only have 350 subs??!
I really appreciate that compliment! Thank you very much!!
I’d look into vacuum forming. Dealing with all that fiber in the shop and on my clothes would be a nightmare.
Definitely in the works!
Would these work if I’m trying to make a mold for carbon? Make the mold then use it to make the finaly carbon part? I purchased a kit a while back used it 1 from carbon composites I purchased a entire kit wit vacuum pump bags etc
Yeah. This is exactly how you'd make a mold for carbon and vacuum infusion. Will be doing the same inthe future.
@@freedomfriestv awesome thnks for the response great content by the way
Do you have a link to the filler wax you used? I can't find anything in the US...
I didnt use fillet wax, but wish I could have. This is simply plasticine model clay. Pain in the butt to clean, but some dawn dish soap in a cup of water and a bristle brush makes semi quick work of the excess after its peeled away.
@@freedomfriestv ah, gotcha. Thank you for the reply! I ended up ordering a couple packs of that Fill-it clay from FiberglassSupplyDepot which I believe is what you're talking about.
My project is a clear hood for my 89 f150. I’m gonna pour epoxy in the mold but need to figure out how to get the latches and bolt holes in the mix too because I want it to be functional like factory but still transparent. What do I gotta do to keep epoxy from sticking to fiberglass? Is it same basic technique? Got all new chrome pulleys and water pump and timing cover and even valve covers on my 351w along with aluminum intake and 4 barrel but can’t show it off unless hood is open.
I am not sure how to manage the clear epoxy hood - I think most people use lexan for the clear hoods. I'd check out Easy Composites LTD youtube channel to see how they managed to get the bolt holes and everything secured to the composite hood. Good luck with the project man!
Really enjoyed your video my swollBro, but probably not as much as that pinch you had in at 5:20😂
Hahahahah gotta deal with the stress somehow
Great how to! Much better than most I've come across.
When it comes to doing something like a sunroof plug, would it be the same steps, essentially, even though it's glass?
Thank you! Yeah, just make sure to seal off separations with molding clay so the gelcoat doesnt seep into any cracks. Good luck and I hope it goes well!
I have a 370z convertible, but I really want a hard top like ones on s2000 and Miata, I wonder if it’s possible to fabricate one from fiberglass
You definitely could. Either a hard top replacement for the soft top or a full replacement like the normal 350z roofline. Would just take a bit of work and like 2 molds. (so I'd expect around $1,000 in material)
Can we making mold without gelcoat , jst use matt ,resin , wax how it possible?
Yes. Wax, resin, Matt will make 1 part. You will need to do work to make the part look good. Gelcoat will make a mold so you can make many pieces with a perfect look every time.
What if your mold / plug is going to be part of the construction of what your building? I want to build a motorhome hull, so the mold will be part of the interior construction.
Sounds like you'll just need to lay fiberglass over whatever your hull will be!
The ASVAB Waiver shirt. lol.
I❤y I learning from you how can I make fiberglass car
Tha for the amazing video man. 🙏🏻
Thank you for the compliment!
What kid do you recommend to do this as first time
I need one thanks to Anthony 😂😂
Well, don't get him back until I make a mold of his door too! I'll send you a video of what the finished product look like manggg
What type of wax does he use for the mold does anyone know?
Actually its a clay called plasticine. Significantly cheaper than importing filleting wax from the UK. Downside is clean up is a pain, but a plastic bristle brush and water+dawn dish soap does the trick!
Why didn’t I use a square 2x4 setup over the top fiberglass on the mold, to make it keep its shape over time and multiple uses
The piece releases easy enough that it wasn't necessary to reinforce the mold like this. Definitely would do that for something like a bumper or anything more complex than a slightly curved flat piece
The main things proper ventilation and mask, and ditch the dremel and get air compressor and die grinder. Good video though 👍
Would be nice to see bumper with some upgrades😅
Great vid man! holy sheeeeit tho wear a mask and some safety glasses!
What are the odds I total my Wrap on my done car when doing this process to replicate my One off Evo Over/flares to include the entire quarter panel and rear door ? or will the wax be a good enough barrier do you think?
Wrap would likely get ruined. I've considered using wrap as a release agent but have read it doesn't work well. The heat build up from the fiberglass/gelcoat and the possibility of materials running is definitely high. I'd actually pull off the wrap from the panel before trying to replicate. Sorry man
@@freedomfriestv it's all good I have voltex flares on top of b magic overs. Turbo Coyote swapped Evo drift car 🤘🏻. So I full expect to ruin something. I appreciate the reply!!
@@untamedantiks5073 Dude that's the most wild thing I've read all day! Need to see that car.
@@freedomfriestv not my video but my car
th-cam.com/video/dBZhtMDITjQ/w-d-xo.html
Thumbs up for the waiver T
Thanks for sharing! What are you using for your filleting wax? Thank you
Wax goes on first then pva. Right?
PVA first. Would recommend picking up a HVLP paint gun from harbor freight for $20 to spray on the PVA. Much easier/better release vs painting it on. That being said, I painted it on prior to learning this and had no major issues (outside of runs imprinting on the gelcoat).
I have never seen someone put wax on after the PVA. I have used just the PVA and had easy releases, but waxing first will make it easier.
@@danielohara2974 Maybe I'm mistaken in the process, but have always had easy releases. Will look into it! Thanks for the comment!
Does Anthony make a bigger size? Cause that shirt lookin a little snug James🤨😂
I just want to feel like I'm being held
Are you in kc?
Close enough. Manhattan area
@@freedomfriestv I'm Darnell with AlphaRPM and I would like to get into learning more hands on with molds
@@dnell816 Hey man, its going to be 6+ months until I get back from Dubai. After that, I'd be down to help you with it.
All them white spots in the fiberglass mat it all air and is dry you need to add more resin to them areas that mold is very weak also, you can get away with only using paste wax for a much better finished part.
What is an ASVAB waiver? Is that real?
When someone scores too low on the ASAVB for a job they can get a waiver to still enlist. Yes its real. No I did not get an ASVAB waiver.. So I guess it's a bit of rude shirt.
I need a supply list like name of brand and all
@@Username44572 message me on IG and I’ll get it to you
Why all the White spots.
It looks like your fiberglass mat is not fully saturated
Definitely wasn't, but for the piece I was making was good enough. Didn't want to make it overly heavy/too resin thick
where did you get filleting wax?
I WISH IT WAS FILLETING WAX. I used plasticine (modeling clay/oil based clay). It's a pain to clean, but dawn dish soap and a plastic bristle brush does wonders. The clay is expensive but I've reused the couple lbs I purchased about 4 times.
good channel name
Dope content bro 💪🏾
Thanks! I really appreciate that!
This is awesome bro we’ll done
Thanks
lol ASVAB waiver... im dead dude... hahahaha
It's my favorite shirt hahahah