@ChampionCCC Problem with them is that everything is so expensive and everything is an option. The customer has to do all the legwork to remind the installer/supplier to include all the extras you might assume are included. Viessmann are a bit better in that regard (outdoor temp sensor still not included as standard like for Atag but at least the internet gateway is). @GlynHudson have you tried the adaptive heating curve option? I think that's the recommended approach.
@@m23605 no I've not tried adaptive Curve but I've heard it doesn't work very well with the heat pumps, I think it would struggle to beat a carefully optimised manual Curve
@@GlynHudson So you think it would work better with a gas boiler? I'm having a new 826 (good modulation) boiler installed soon and paid quite a lot extra for the sensoComfort system and was hoping the adaptive curve feature would be worth it (otherwise I wasted a whole bunch of money)
I have to say what a brilliant video and coming from a heating engineer, well done ! The more I research about heat pumps the more I want to change my own boiler for one and start fitting more 😊
It is encouraging to see that existing single panel radiators can be replaced by double panel radiators to enable a lower flow temperature which in turn enables a heat pump to operate efficiently. Thanks for sharing. ☮️
Great to hear it works so well in the UK. My sister has a custom built and highly insulated detached house with UFH throughout (in Austria). The heat pump generally works ok. But on cold days when it is below minus 5 or more then the heat pump is not enough. They absolutely need their wood burner, so I wouldn’t dream of just relying on one source of heating with only a heat pump.
@@MilesV8 it's all down to system design, a heat pump can heat any house at whatever temperature if its been designed to. In the UK we design heat pumps to cover 100% heat load. In other counties it's common to design for 80% heat load, assuming secondary sources eg wood stove or booster heaters are used on the occasional very cold day.
Very useful to see a real life installation in a 1980s bungalow. The Vaillant controls are impressively thorough. I like how the controls monitor the outside temperature and adjust the flow temperature.
Another great video. Interesting to see an install in another older property disproving the myth that they are only suitable for modern builds. We have a Daikin monobloc which performs extremely well in our detached 1960s built home, and saves us a fortune compared to a Rayburn.
Lol at the little dish you put outside to catch the water! Great job and amazing to see that your parents are enjoying your hard work. Thanks for sharing the calculation site, i'm keen to give it a go and see whether my guesstimates are close. Looks like an amazing place to try a heat pump, you'll have to let us know in the update whether you find any wool in the fins ;).
Brilliant video! Your previous video inspired me to push on with my pursuit of getting a heat pump. I've now got a 7kW Arotherm Plus which was recently installed and enjoying trying to get it optimised over the last couple of weeks.
We have the same Woodwman stove as your parents , 102 sq, meters bungalow built 1990. No under floor insulation but cavity walls are insulated , attic 300mm insulation and basic upvc double glazed windows and doors (13 years old), Stove heats house and hot water quite well using biomass/wood eco briquettes bought by the tonne pallet, cost so far about €1200/year here in ireland.But as with most energy products they have jumped up in price considerably. So I have been looking at air source heat pump systems and from your excellent videos I reckon it could work for us. But house has to be rated B1 before we can avail of grant. Thank you.
So far after almost 2 months of data the Vaillant senso app is over-reporting the COP. The Vaillant Senso app reports COP of 4.5 while the MID meters report a COP of 4.3 The Senso App underreports electricity by 5% and underreports heat by 1% compared to the MID meters, this results in a COP which is 4% over reported. There seems to be mixed results in how accurate Vaillant reports compared to MID billing grade metes, see: community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-inbuilt-monitoring-vs-mid-meters/24230
I have really enjoyed your videos and admire the standard of your work. I would love to do a self install myself. About 15 years ago I re-piped all my rads in 10mm plastic when I had a new boiler installed. It seems I would have to re-pipe it again in 15mm to get the full benefit of a heat pump. But I would have to rip up oak flooring and some tiled floors to do it. It seems a lot of upheaval. Thank you.
It depends on the heat loss of your property, 10mm may be ok, although the internal bore on 10mm plastic is quite restrictive. Here's a good video on a heat pump installation with microbore th-cam.com/video/kxKEx1z00-4/w-d-xo.html
Your videos are fast changing my mind about replacing my old oil fueled boiler with a new one, or going for a heat pump. I'm just concerned about finding the right installer!
Yes, I had some experience installed a heat pump in my own home (th-cam.com/video/Hyv_vQEvHgo/w-d-xo.html), but I'm not an installer. I'm involved in monitoring heat pump with my work at OpenEnergyMonitor, so I do have some experience designing and optimizing heat pumps. The mechanics of plumbing e.g soldering etc is not that difficult, after a few tries. It's good fun!
Really great video - thanks Glyn. We are hopefully install an AroTherm Split 5Kw system into a terraced stone-walled cottage - 2 up, 2 down. We have had long drawn out difficulties trying to get a heat pump which will meet the MC020 stand for noise, and were going for the AroTherm+. However, we can’t install it in the space we have, since it is near a drain and window and the use of R290 refrigerant is a blocking issue. So we are going for the AroTherm Split which uses R410A refrigerant - not so eco-friendly unfortunately. I’m think of getting the installer to include the Open Energy Monitor to give detailed and accurate data on performance. Thanks again!
That's great you manage to find a solution. The refrigerant should never leak from the system so higher GWP it's not that bigger issue. Let me know if you have any questions about monitoring. Happy to help
Yes, we like to look at the numbers and I’m sure they help getting the best out of the system by seeing exactly what is happening in terms of the impact of settings on power consumption and getting optimum temperatures in the house.
Great video again. Another one to prove they work in older properties. Have you ever thought about using full bore actuated 3 port ball valves as they have a lot less resistance than standard motorised valves. I changed mine to a ball valve and it increased the flow rate considerably. I guess you have enough flow anyway
I fitted this diverter valve which has low pressure drop, however since the heat load is only about 5 kilowatts the flow rate only leads to be about 14 liters per minute which is not really very much midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/renewable-heat-accessories/mut-meccanica-tovo-sv-3-port-valve
@GlynHudson yes I thought that would be the case but thought I would mention it. I have a very old stone house that needs about 13kw so I changed mine to the ball valve to get more flow and it made a huge difference. I can run at about 700 watts input when ambient is around 5 degrees and keep the house at 20. I think heat pumps are the answer they just need installing right. Keep up the good work I'm sure you will have more to do for friends
Excellent Video Glyn. We are planning to replace our gas boiler soon, hopefully whilst the HMG grants are still available. Also understand that there are some newer design heat pumps that will be more efficient in the next couple of years. We also have a bungalow, which we have just had an up to date energy assessment, which came out at grade 2 with ability to upgrade to grade 1. If possible might you let me know what energy assessment your parents house was please? Many thanks Malcolm
Brilliant video. Im just upgrading insulation in my 1930s house and need to look at heating options as boiler is 25yrs old. Issue is space for "plant room" This will be an issue in many normal semi detached I think 🤔
That's great to hear, it's possible to make the indoor gubbins fit I a much smaller space, take a look at this video of the install I did in my own house, the indoor bit including the cylinder fitted in the same space as original combi boiler. If space is really limited a Sunamp heat battery can be used instead of hot water tank, these are 3x smaller than a tank. But a tank is best if you can fit it, slimline tanks are quite space efficient
Glyn are there any regulatory issues to be aware of? As a competent DIYer with a lot of experience, I am seriously thinking of a DIY install. I have a friend who is a registered electrician but my house is already well up to standard electrically. I guess as there is no gas involved there is not a problem on the plumbing side. If I ever sell my house would I have produce any heat pump installation certification. Many thanks for the vids.
I install these Vaillant units one of my customers last year managed to run their heat pump off their solar + batteries for 11 months without using the mains
I’m in rainy coastal south wales , ie sea at bottom of garden some two hundred metres away . My concern is what the sea air will do to the pump components , I’ve read there is some mitigation for this but it seems it may be an issue , installer has specified two Mitsubishi ecodan 12kw units . To get the best circulation around these , watched heat geek tests on this , but I think they need to be located further away from house , do you know if there are significant issues in doing this , ie distance from plant room cause too big a loss ? Will be asking installer but want an independent view . Thanks for very informative videos , particularly useful the links to monitoring tools .
I've heard you can get heat pumps with coastal protection coatings. Yes, it's possible to use pre insulated buried pipe to locate the HP further away from the house, the pipe is very well insulated, so losses are minimal, however it costs about £1k per meter
Glyn I see you have both on the heatpumpmonitor so I had a look on there but can't see what your room temp is. Is this not shown or is it me not seeing it . Just not sure if your walking around with a coat on. As you can show a good cop but it doesn't mean your house is warm.
Here's a direct link to the data for the system in this video, as you can see on the graph the average temperature this week has been 21.2C (min 19.3C / max 23.1C), the while outdoor temperature has dropped to -4C emoncms.org/app/view?name=MyHeatpump&readkey=871ad5efb8f20f698f12d751aea9b8a6
Great video Glynn? Did you remove the wood stove fully for the BUS grant or just disconnect from the heating and DHW? I love the 22mm elbow hack on the AFV
There's no requirement to remove the wood stove for BUS, the HP system just needs to be sized and designed to meet the full heat load of the property. Wood stove will remain for emergency use, the property is in a rural location and they have had multiple week powr cuts in the past. However, since this was a self install we were not able to claim BUS.
@@GlynHudsonHaving you design and install the heat pump is worth every penny forfeited under the BUS grant - for the peace of mind of being confident of a working and efficient system.👍
@@GlynHudson gotcha! We get a lot of customers that want to keep it ( and I would) so for the BUS grant to be accepted they stated that so long as it's not connected to the CH or DHW, it becomes a secondary much like a gas fire
@@owenattewell3910 ah yes, sorry didn't read your message properly and didn't realise it was you! Yes, wood stove has been disconnected from CH and DHW and just remains as standalone unit. Even if it was allowed under BUS it wouldn't be worth having two coils in the tank and dealing with CH switchover, back boiler never worked very effectively.
@@GlynHudson that's ok, I'm enjoying your videos, wish I had free time to do my own! You can't deny a log burner is the ultimate cozy mood inducer 😂 Hopefully getting my HP installed in January
Oh yes, heat pumps work very well with UFH. Since UFH has large surface area to emitt the heat, the heat pump can deliver an even lower flow temperature while still comfortably heating the room.
Thanks, the primary pipework and the DHW pipework needs to be insulated to prevent energy loss and stop house overheating in the summer when ASHP is only heating DHW. I didn't insulate the internal heating pipework
Have say, just goes to show that with the right knowledge and tools heat pumps are nothing to bamboozled over. A thought through self install is probably going to give better long term returns than going with an installer who has little knowledge and is just box shifting to get grants. Good work, keep it up.
Excellent job Glyn, I was particularly impressed with the Vaillant controls and the apparent low noise when the system was running. Did you calculate the difference between heating the dhw with your excess PV and off-peak electric over using the ASHP?
Thanks, heating water with the ASHP is about 3x more efficient than immersion solar PV divert, especially since my parents have got a battey connected to their solar PV so they can charge the battey up with excess PV which can then power thr ASHP
Thanks for this, very useful. Did you run an airtightness regime before you did the pressure test? Would be interesting to hear how you reduced drafts and air movement keep up the good work 👍.
Hi Glyn, what sort of cost would an install like that be? I looked into heat pumps back when RHI was running. The rewards were so much better under that initiative but trying to get an installer to respond was hard enough, let alone finding one that was competent. After many failed attempts, I finally got someone to quote an horrendous amount for an install which I was cost prohibitive at the time. I think there are more competent installers out there now but realistically, looking at what's involved in getting a heat pump system installed with pipe and radiator upgrades, I fear the affordability is just always going to be a sticking point.
Sorry, I've got no idea. Since I did the work myself there wasn't a labour cost which is a very significant cost for a HP install. Labour cost also fairies a lot depending on how much auxiliary work is required and where you are in the country. I would recommend trying to get a quote from a heat geek trained installer.
Hey, great video and very inspirational. I was just wondering how long would you say it took you to reach this kind of level of skill when it comes to plumbing and installing heat pumps? What sort of qualifications do you need? Thanks!
I just watched a lot of plumbing YT videos! Prior to installing a heat pump, I had done a bit of plumbing in kitchens and bathrooms. The hardest part about plumbing is getting all the fittings, it's common to need regular trips to the hardware store!
@@GlynHudson Thanks so much for the reply! I want to get less intimidated by plumbing so you've inspired me to try it out (although starting small haha).
@j.c.7780@j.c.7780 for general plumbing info Plumber Parts YT channel has got some good videoes. For heatpump specific stuff Heat Geek and Urban Plumbers are excellent. Good luck!
Great video, thanks Glyn. Where are the sensors for the monitoring (you might have mentioned them in the vid but I missed it)? How much do they add to the install cost, and the blower test? I’m so impressed with being able to put all this stuff in. I feel like it’s something I should learn but wouldn’t know where to start!
Thanks, the monitoring system is an openenergymonitor level 3 system shop.openenergymonitor.com/level-3-heat-pump-monitoring-bundle-emonhp/. Blower door tests are usally a few hundred pounds.
Hi glyn, ive found your videos very interesting on the heat pumps, ive been asked to design and install a system for someone, any chance of some pointers of the basics? Not sure how else to get on touch. Thanks carl
I don't think you are allowed an isolation valve between unvented hot water cylinder and expansion vessel ? You have done a Great job putting in the new system 👍
I used a special service valve which can't be accidentally switched off, these are allowed and are very useful to avoid having to drain the tank when servicing the expansion vessel e.g www.bes.co.uk/expansion-vessel-service-valve-3-4-bsp-union-x-bsp-tm-23730/?ref=gs&rnd=18708&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaGYknSoygIm_GdwQDgKWZHPExpHAZWdofI6oAm4M23BUWKUetOTcF4aAhLIEALw_wcB
@@GlynHudson Thank you! So it's settings, and not physical install? I'm about to get a heat pump and wondering if it's worth the extra for the Newark Heat Geek cylinder vs, say a Joule Cyclone. It's really hard to find information on the performance difference due to the coil size difference.
@@Leo99929 This system just has a standard Telford heat pump Cylinder. The new Heat Geek cylinders are great and will give even better performance, but whether they are worth the extra cost, DHW is a relatively small % of the overall heat requirement. Focusing on the best space heating performance i.e the lowest possible design flow temperature by upgrading radiators will give a better return on investment. Any heat pump cylinder can get decent performance with the correct settings and recharge schedule. Although I wouldn't recommend the Telford Tempest.
Looks excellent. is it an open loop system or is there a circulation pump? I used a preplumbed cylinder from Daikin and it comes set-up with a buffer built into the tank and a circulation pump. This can be bypassed and just used as a volumiser if I like - which I think I may do. It's running about 100m2 of underfloor heating. Do need to speak to Daikin to figure out the pump settings for using it this way.
This system is running open loop with just the one circulation pump that's inside the heatpump. You shouldn't have any problem running open loop on your UFH, I would highly recommend it for best efficiency. Just make sure that you've got minimal zoning, try to keep as much of the system open as you can. No special settings should be required, just remove the 2nd pump. You also want to avoid having a blending valve or additonal pump on UFH manifold. Personally I would avoid Daikin, lots of folk are struggling to get Daikin units to perform well. Take a look at some of the threads on the openenergymonitor forums: community.openenergymonitor.org
@@GlynHudson Thanks for your reply, The system is pure weather compensation, no room stats, no zoning, no actuators, no blending valves or pump at the manifold. It just has the circulation pump on the cylinder which I guess is their sticking plaster to make all installations "work". That's interesting - I'm going to swap around the connections to remove the buffer and pump imminently - I'm hoping I can isolating the space heat circuit at the underfloor heating manifold and then make sure the diverter valve is on DHW so I dont have to do a full drain down and lose all my biocide and inhibitor!
@@GlynHudson I've switched them over now and isolated the buffer, it now just acts as a volumiser - makes so much more sense. I've had no issues with my Daikin unit, I was heavily involved in the overall design of the system, even on my previous buffer setup I achieved a cop of around 4.0 in moderate winter weather, though I am in one of the warmest parts of the UK. I predict this modification will definitely improve efficiency further though. It's the Altherma 3 Monoblock 8kW, the smaller unit size they do
@GlynHudson Many thanks for this most helpful video. Just curious why you didn’t stick with Vaillant for your cylinder (price?). I have a narrow cupboard and see that your cylinder manufacturer does do some suitable slimline units that would fit. What influenced your choice of a Tempest hot water storage cylinder and would you recommend them?
Cost basicly! Your free to choose whatever cylinder suits your needs best, the heatpump doesn't mind what cylinder you use. I've actually got a 150L slimline Vaillant cylinder connected to my Samsung heatpump at home, you can see this in one of my earlier videos. The Telford cylinder is ok, but I'm actually not super impressed with it, it's got a very large coil but the coil layout is suboptimal for heat transfer. It's a decent budget option but other cylinders would get marginally better performance
@@GlynHudson Thanks so much - is there a brand you could recommend? I would like a 200l tank that would fit into a cupboard 550mm X 600mm, but with plenty of ceiling height (2.4m). I will possibly go with the 150L slimline Vaillant cylinder, but would ideally like 200l.
Glynn fantastic video. Could I please which supplier did you use for the compression flow rate meters? And the heat pump isolation valve levers? Looking forward to more videos.
I find it "interesting" that Vaillant appears to be offering some components, like that solar powered outdoor temp sensor or the VR940f controller in the UK, but not here in Germany,. despite Vaillant being a german brand...🤔
Hey Glyn thanks so much for your videos super helpful insights. I'm planning on doing a self install in France but struggling to find the outside design temperature for my area (74330) it can drop to -10 and occassionally -20 here in winter, do you know if setting my design to -3 is still sensible? thank you!
That's great to hear! Do you have a secondary heating source? E.g wood stove? If so, and if its -10/-20C for only few days of the year each year it would be more sensible to design for -3C and then supplement the heating when the temperature drops below -3C
@@GlynHudson thanks for the speedy reply! I don't but I'm currently trying to see if its a possibility, but its a little tricky in the layout with the roof shape and neighbours in the building (45m2 apartment over 3 floors) at present its on a single electric heater so even if it goes back to 1:1 spending on electric for. a few days I'll be so much better off. 2 floors have wet ufh that was run from an oil boiler so my install internally should be a breeze (I hope :D)
Very informative video can you tell me what company you used for the air tightness test and how much was the cost? It seems to be a very important test for the air change on the heat punk software ive played about with it all ready and just adjusting the air changes can drastically change the heat loss!
Can you tell us what the monthly electric bill total was in October, November & December 2023 and January, February and March 2024. No one with a heat pump is willing to do this. I wouldn't recommend sealing your house so it is airtight.
As an arotherm owner i would love to know a comparison of your monitoring scop to vaillants 'working figure' last year it claimed a scop of 5.2! I think its working well but not that well!
I've found the Vaillant onboard monitoring to over-report by about 4% compared to the independent monitoring, however this is reported to vary between systems, see this thread: community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-inbuilt-monitoring-vs-mid-meters/24230
Fantastic job and great attention to detail too. Are there any particular settings on the Vaillant that were hard to figure out / any that could have been easily missed ? I'm planning a self-install during next summer, although I really feel I need some form of backup support in the years ahead, but I can't find any Vaillant installers yet in Ireland
Thanks. No really, the Vaillant controller is one of the best and easiest to setup, the import important setting is getting the heat curve set correctly. I cover this in the video. Best of luck with your install
@@GlynHudson What is the BES part number for the Inta Isolation valves. I'm not seeing them on their website. And how do you size the heating expansion vessel ? My Combi currently has it onboard. Video a huge resource for anyone doing a self install
@@ChampionCCC they 25792, check to make sure your heatpump requires 1 1/4", most other heatpumps appart from Vaillant are 1". Lots of online resources for calculating EV size, it depends on water volume in system and max design temperature, no harm in EV being larger than needed, but if your space constrained it's surprising how small you can get away with.
No, using manufacture's own controls with no zoning generally gives the best performance with a heat pump. We have TRVs fitted on rads, but these are just used for overheat protection
Hey Glyn 🙂 Awesome stuff! (Love your EV vids)…..can I ask did you receive the Boiler Upgrade grant for this. I’d love to do the same but wondering if it would be cost effective.
How do you get around the Permitted Development issue? (mainly at your house where it's mounted to the wall) As I understand this is the main issue in Wales where it is 1m. I'd love to upgrade but literally no areas of my property are more than 1mtr away from a boundary or within view of a neighbours window? (Ex council end terrace house end of terrace at the turn in a road so triangular plot)
In Wales it's actually 3 meters which is crazy! However this is under review and will no doubt be reduced or abolished. If the system does not fall under permitted development it just means you need to apply for planning it will nearly always be approved but it's more hassle. I'm lucky both the installations I've been involved with don't have any neighbours within 3m. It's particularly crazy since modern heat pumps are so quiet
Nothing special, quite standard really. It's got cavity wall insulation on some walls and non insulated cavity on others. About 150-200mm of loft insulation. Windows are decent but nothing special. Exterior doors are solid wood and quite poorly sealed.
I had a Daikin fitted back in spring. Got to winter and the rads only get luke warm in the top 4" of the rads. Air has been bled and I've had the installers out so many times but still not fixed. I had it running at 18° on the madoka all day today and then raised to 21° when I got home. The because the rads do not get warm all over, the madoka shows 18° and no higher. I'd love to know what you think as I had everything removed and upgraded, rads, pipework, the lot. So upset that I've been swindled
@@Etacovda63 it's been on 24 hours and the rads are tepid along the top and the bottom has no heat in them at all. Madoka thermostat struggles to show anything higher than 18°c and the back of the heat pump is frozen over. I've seen it go into defrost mode as the steam what comes off is biblical! Had a look at the flow rate, it fluctuates between 15L to 19L. So so upset by all of this, wish I would have just stayed with oil
@@garyhalkon8749 yeah, sounds like a nightmare. What temperature is it currently where you are? sub zero? what size is the heatpump? how many radiators? what is the house construction?
@@Etacovda63 temp outside is -2c temp in the house is at 17c from what it says on the onecta app. It's an Altherma HT I know that much. It was all properly sized and all the rads upgraded along with the pipework too. I'm just at a loss that not all the surface of the rads get warm, just the top quarter. I know that they're not supposed to be belting hot, but surely they should provide an even warmth from top to bottom. Also all the trv are open. It's a bungalow, with wall cavity and full roof insulation. Double glazed windows and composite doors.
This clearly highlights how these so called professional installers are crap when a self-installer can install a system that is far better than one installed by the so called experts. Thanks for uploading and putting the scamming professional installers to shame. .
Thanks, but I wouldn't go that far! There's lots of good installers out there. I don't think any installer wants to do a poor job, it's just until recently there's not been much good training available on the best ways to install heatpumps. There's a lot of heatpumps being installed in the same way as gas or oil boilers e.g oversized unit and undersized emitters and pipework. Good monitoring also helps to optimise the controlls and understand what works best.
how did you register your unvented cylinder to building control as i assume you do not have an unvented hot water qualification which is legally required
@@normanboyes4983 I’m sorry but i don’t know where you got that information,you need g3 certification to install and service unvented hot water systems and professional installers pay a lot of money for that certification!
@@normanboyes4983That's interesting news for me. I want to fit an unvented cylinder as part of a gradual upgrade program heading towards replacing gas boiler for a heat pump. I did not know how to get over the 3G qualification issue. I'm happy to pay for a BC inspection. I will look further into the process.
About £6k including all the radiators and cylinder. But since my labour was free this is cost is not representative. Vaillant heatpumps are quite expensive, it would be possible to reduce cost by £1-2k by using a cheaper heat pump.
Were you able to benefit from the UK government grant for this excellent installation? I thought that you need to use an MCS accredited installer to qualify - perhaps you are, but you keep saying that you are not an installer...
@@GlynHudson thanks for responding. It's a shame that you can't get an MCS accredited installer to sign of a system installed by a competent homeowner. I suspect that the job you did was every bit as good as any MCS installer would provide.
Those cylinders are cheap for a reason? I never see any pipe lagging on any sites, unlike solar which is free energy and the pipe comes lagged. This world is a bit nuts.
@GlynHudson yes sorry about that. I did notice some don't show there room temp though, I would like to monitor mine as the Samsung readings on my controller are all over the place some days it says it has been running for 37 hours. I did speak to Samsung tech and they said take no notice of it it's not at all accurate. Would just be nice to see what my cop is but the cost for the equipment to monitor it is a bit to expensive. I am happy with my usage I use about 4000kwh a year on a 200 sq metre 220 year old house and that is keeping it at a constant 20 degrees. I guess that's reasonable
good work Glyn! Keep them vids coming. You are putting most professional plumbers to shame ;)
Thanks, I've learnt a lot from your videos! I was impressed with the Vaillant unit
@@GlynHudson Indeed, the @UrbanPlumbers videos have convinced me to go Vaillant. I have a Vaillant ThermoMax Combi currently
@ChampionCCC Problem with them is that everything is so expensive and everything is an option. The customer has to do all the legwork to remind the installer/supplier to include all the extras you might assume are included. Viessmann are a bit better in that regard (outdoor temp sensor still not included as standard like for Atag but at least the internet gateway is).
@GlynHudson have you tried the adaptive heating curve option? I think that's the recommended approach.
@@m23605 no I've not tried adaptive Curve but I've heard it doesn't work very well with the heat pumps, I think it would struggle to beat a carefully optimised manual Curve
@@GlynHudson So you think it would work better with a gas boiler? I'm having a new 826 (good modulation) boiler installed soon and paid quite a lot extra for the sensoComfort system and was hoping the adaptive curve feature would be worth it (otherwise I wasted a whole bunch of money)
Three generations working together to give the fourth a fighting chance. Great work.
Thanks! That's the best comment I've had, I love that sentiment
Just goes to show it's not the technology that is at fault but the design and installation, excellent work 👍👌
I have to say what a brilliant video and coming from a heating engineer, well done ! The more I research about heat pumps the more I want to change my own boiler for one and start fitting more 😊
It is encouraging to see that existing single panel radiators can be replaced by double panel radiators to enable a lower flow temperature which in turn enables a heat pump to operate efficiently. Thanks for sharing. ☮️
Fantastic video & a great result. You should become an installer, you're already doing a better job than most of them!
This has been my experience with heat pumps . House always warm even on the coldest days .
Great video 👍
great video, your parents are fortunate to have you as their son. 👍
Thanks!
I suspect his dad building his own house in the 80s was a big inspiration. Smart family!
Great to hear it works so well in the UK. My sister has a custom built and highly insulated detached house with UFH throughout (in Austria). The heat pump generally works ok. But on cold days when it is below minus 5 or more then the heat pump is not enough. They absolutely need their wood burner, so I wouldn’t dream of just relying on one source of heating with only a heat pump.
@@MilesV8 it's all down to system design, a heat pump can heat any house at whatever temperature if its been designed to. In the UK we design heat pumps to cover 100% heat load. In other counties it's common to design for 80% heat load, assuming secondary sources eg wood stove or booster heaters are used on the occasional very cold day.
We installed a 7kw version and solar in the summer seeing some real benefits not only in cost to run but a nice warm house too.
Very useful to see a real life installation in a 1980s bungalow.
The Vaillant controls are impressively thorough. I like how the controls monitor the outside temperature and adjust the flow temperature.
Yes, Vaillant controls are good. However, all models of heat pump support weather compensation e.g adjusting flowT based on outdoorT
Another great video. Interesting to see an install in another older property disproving the myth that they are only suitable for modern builds. We have a Daikin monobloc which performs extremely well in our detached 1960s built home, and saves us a fortune compared to a Rayburn.
Clive are you ex-Met Office?
@@dan_grey Yes.
@@clivepierce1816 nice to "bump into you", as it were, again! Happy Christmas 🙂
What was your total electric bill for the house each month for the past 7months?
Lol at the little dish you put outside to catch the water! Great job and amazing to see that your parents are enjoying your hard work. Thanks for sharing the calculation site, i'm keen to give it a go and see whether my guesstimates are close. Looks like an amazing place to try a heat pump, you'll have to let us know in the update whether you find any wool in the fins ;).
Brilliant video! Your previous video inspired me to push on with my pursuit of getting a heat pump. I've now got a 7kW Arotherm Plus which was recently installed and enjoying trying to get it optimised over the last couple of weeks.
Fantastic that's great to hear!
Your videos are so informative and clearly explained. I look forward to seeing your next challenge. Well done!
Thanks!
Thank you. An outstandingly clear explainer video, and charming too, M
Thank you sir!
Great work! I'm looking forward to when I can get one installed, too many other jobs ahead of it just at the moment!
Your videos are a game changer. Nice work. ❤
Very good info. I've just started my own diary of my aroTHERM plus self install,.... and using your vid as a reference point!
Love it Glyn
Thanks Ken
We have the same Woodwman stove as your parents , 102 sq, meters bungalow built 1990. No under floor insulation but cavity walls are insulated , attic 300mm insulation and basic upvc double glazed windows and doors (13 years old), Stove heats house and hot water quite well using biomass/wood eco briquettes bought by the tonne pallet, cost so far about €1200/year here in ireland.But as with most energy products they have jumped up in price considerably. So I have been looking at air source heat pump systems and from your excellent videos I reckon it could work for us. But house has to be rated B1 before we can avail of grant. Thank you.
So far after almost 2 months of data the Vaillant senso app is over-reporting the COP. The Vaillant Senso app reports COP of 4.5 while the MID meters report a COP of 4.3
The Senso App underreports electricity by 5% and underreports heat by 1% compared to the MID meters, this results in a COP which is 4% over reported.
There seems to be mixed results in how accurate Vaillant reports compared to MID billing grade metes, see: community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-inbuilt-monitoring-vs-mid-meters/24230
Great video Glyn, super explanation and step by step content. Install looks good, you're a great inspiration to others.
Thanks John! Great to see your system is still performing well.
@@GlynHudson it is. I've finally managed to get all the air out of the hot water circuit too! Very pleased with how it is working.
Very nice plumbing, it looks professional!
Great video. Really educational and absolutely fascinating. Thanks!
I have really enjoyed your videos and admire the standard of your work. I would love to do a self install myself. About 15 years ago I re-piped all my rads in 10mm plastic when I had a new boiler installed. It seems I would have to re-pipe it again in 15mm to get the full benefit of a heat pump. But I would have to rip up oak flooring and some tiled floors to do it. It seems a lot of upheaval. Thank you.
It depends on the heat loss of your property, 10mm may be ok, although the internal bore on 10mm plastic is quite restrictive. Here's a good video on a heat pump installation with microbore th-cam.com/video/kxKEx1z00-4/w-d-xo.html
Very nice installation, the efficiency even -2 is really impressive
Awesome update - thanks for sharing. I feel a self install coming along…
Your videos are fast changing my mind about replacing my old oil fueled boiler with a new one, or going for a heat pump. I'm just concerned about finding the right installer!
That's a valid concern! I would try and find a registered Heat Geek engineer in your area
Impressive work Glyn.
You did this all yourself, self-taught?! You make it look so easy!
Yes, I had some experience installed a heat pump in my own home (th-cam.com/video/Hyv_vQEvHgo/w-d-xo.html), but I'm not an installer. I'm involved in monitoring heat pump with my work at OpenEnergyMonitor, so I do have some experience designing and optimizing heat pumps. The mechanics of plumbing e.g soldering etc is not that difficult, after a few tries. It's good fun!
Love the content and the music is cool 😎 nice work 👍
Brilliant, spread the word!
Great video, super informative.
Very informative and inspirational. I watched your videos on your house.Youve done a great job.
Thanks!
Really great video - thanks Glyn. We are hopefully install an AroTherm Split 5Kw system into a terraced stone-walled cottage - 2 up, 2 down. We have had long drawn out difficulties trying to get a heat pump which will meet the MC020 stand for noise, and were going for the AroTherm+. However, we can’t install it in the space we have, since it is near a drain and window and the use of R290 refrigerant is a blocking issue. So we are going for the AroTherm Split which uses R410A refrigerant - not so eco-friendly unfortunately. I’m think of getting the installer to include the Open Energy Monitor to give detailed and accurate data on performance. Thanks again!
That's great you manage to find a solution. The refrigerant should never leak from the system so higher GWP it's not that bigger issue. Let me know if you have any questions about monitoring. Happy to help
Yes, we like to look at the numbers and I’m sure they help getting the best out of the system by seeing exactly what is happening in terms of the impact of settings on power consumption and getting optimum temperatures in the house.
Great video again. Another one to prove they work in older properties. Have you ever thought about using full bore actuated 3 port ball valves as they have a lot less resistance than standard motorised valves. I changed mine to a ball valve and it increased the flow rate considerably. I guess you have enough flow anyway
I fitted this diverter valve which has low pressure drop, however since the heat load is only about 5 kilowatts the flow rate only leads to be about 14 liters per minute which is not really very much midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/renewable-heat-accessories/mut-meccanica-tovo-sv-3-port-valve
@GlynHudson yes I thought that would be the case but thought I would mention it. I have a very old stone house that needs about 13kw so I changed mine to the ball valve to get more flow and it made a huge difference. I can run at about 700 watts input when ambient is around 5 degrees and keep the house at 20. I think heat pumps are the answer they just need installing right. Keep up the good work I'm sure you will have more to do for friends
Love your work Glyn keep it up.
Inspirational Glyn.
Great work 👍
Excellent Video Glyn. We are planning to replace our gas boiler soon, hopefully whilst the HMG grants are still available. Also understand that there are some newer design heat pumps that will be more efficient in the next couple of years. We also have a bungalow, which we have just had an up to date energy assessment, which came out at grade 2 with ability to upgrade to grade 1. If possible might you let me know what energy assessment your parents house was please? Many thanks Malcolm
Great video. Thank you.
Brilliant video. Im just upgrading insulation in my 1930s house and need to look at heating options as boiler is 25yrs old. Issue is space for "plant room" This will be an issue in many normal semi detached I think 🤔
That's great to hear, it's possible to make the indoor gubbins fit I a much smaller space, take a look at this video of the install I did in my own house, the indoor bit including the cylinder fitted in the same space as original combi boiler. If space is really limited a Sunamp heat battery can be used instead of hot water tank, these are 3x smaller than a tank. But a tank is best if you can fit it, slimline tanks are quite space efficient
Glyn are there any regulatory issues to be aware of? As a competent DIYer with a lot of experience, I am seriously thinking of a DIY install. I have a friend who is a registered electrician but my house is already well up to standard electrically. I guess as there is no gas involved there is not a problem on the plumbing side. If I ever sell my house would I have produce any heat pump installation certification. Many thanks for the vids.
I install these Vaillant units one of my customers last year managed to run their heat pump off their solar + batteries for 11 months without using the mains
Impressive! 👍
I’m in rainy coastal south wales , ie sea at bottom of garden some two hundred metres away .
My concern is what the sea air will do to the pump components , I’ve read there is some mitigation for this but it seems it may be an issue , installer has specified two Mitsubishi ecodan 12kw units .
To get the best circulation around these , watched heat geek tests on this , but I think they need to be located further away from house , do you know if there are significant issues in doing this , ie distance from plant room cause too big a loss ?
Will be asking installer but want an independent view . Thanks for very informative videos , particularly useful the links to monitoring tools .
I've heard you can get heat pumps with coastal protection coatings. Yes, it's possible to use pre insulated buried pipe to locate the HP further away from the house, the pipe is very well insulated, so losses are minimal, however it costs about £1k per meter
@Glyn Did Vaillant accept your warranty registration please ? My unit arrived last week, and I have started the install now
I've not tried to register it. It will have two year warranty without registering it.
Glyn I see you have both on the heatpumpmonitor so I had a look on there but can't see what your room temp is. Is this not shown or is it me not seeing it . Just not sure if your walking around with a coat on. As you can show a good cop but it doesn't mean your house is warm.
Here's a direct link to the data for the system in this video, as you can see on the graph the average temperature this week has been 21.2C (min 19.3C / max 23.1C), the while outdoor temperature has dropped to -4C emoncms.org/app/view?name=MyHeatpump&readkey=871ad5efb8f20f698f12d751aea9b8a6
Great video Glynn? Did you remove the wood stove fully for the BUS grant or just disconnect from the heating and DHW?
I love the 22mm elbow hack on the AFV
There's no requirement to remove the wood stove for BUS, the HP system just needs to be sized and designed to meet the full heat load of the property. Wood stove will remain for emergency use, the property is in a rural location and they have had multiple week powr cuts in the past. However, since this was a self install we were not able to claim BUS.
@@GlynHudsonHaving you design and install the heat pump is worth every penny forfeited under the BUS grant - for the peace of mind of being confident of a working and efficient system.👍
@@GlynHudson gotcha! We get a lot of customers that want to keep it ( and I would) so for the BUS grant to be accepted they stated that so long as it's not connected to the CH or DHW, it becomes a secondary much like a gas fire
@@owenattewell3910 ah yes, sorry didn't read your message properly and didn't realise it was you! Yes, wood stove has been disconnected from CH and DHW and just remains as standalone unit. Even if it was allowed under BUS it wouldn't be worth having two coils in the tank and dealing with CH switchover, back boiler never worked very effectively.
@@GlynHudson that's ok, I'm enjoying your videos, wish I had free time to do my own! You can't deny a log burner is the ultimate cozy mood inducer 😂
Hopefully getting my HP installed in January
Can the heat pump (- assuming suitable capacity unit is selected) be fitted to underfloor heating circuits?
Oh yes, heat pumps work very well with UFH. Since UFH has large surface area to emitt the heat, the heat pump can deliver an even lower flow temperature while still comfortably heating the room.
Great story- but why do you need to insulate internal pipework?
Thanks, the primary pipework and the DHW pipework needs to be insulated to prevent energy loss and stop house overheating in the summer when ASHP is only heating DHW. I didn't insulate the internal heating pipework
Have say, just goes to show that with the right knowledge and tools heat pumps are nothing to bamboozled over. A thought through self install is probably going to give better long term returns than going with an installer who has little knowledge and is just box shifting to get grants.
Good work, keep it up.
Excellent job Glyn, I was particularly impressed with the Vaillant controls and the apparent low noise when the system was running. Did you calculate the difference between heating the dhw with your excess PV and off-peak electric over using the ASHP?
Thanks, heating water with the ASHP is about 3x more efficient than immersion solar PV divert, especially since my parents have got a battey connected to their solar PV so they can charge the battey up with excess PV which can then power thr ASHP
@ 02:23 The average heat loss for the building is 43 W/m2. How do you get from there to a 4946W Heat Pump ?
The house is 116m2, says it right next to the 4946w and 43wm2 figures.
@@willdude21 Doh. Silly me. Thanks.
Thanks for this, very useful. Did you run an airtightness regime before you did the pressure test? Would be interesting to hear how you reduced drafts and air movement keep up the good work 👍.
The house was already quite airtight, the usual culprits are poor fitting windows, doors and loft hatches
Hi Glyn, what sort of cost would an install like that be?
I looked into heat pumps back when RHI was running. The rewards were so much better under that initiative but trying to get an installer to respond was hard enough, let alone finding one that was competent. After many failed attempts, I finally got someone to quote an horrendous amount for an install which I was cost prohibitive at the time. I think there are more competent installers out there now but realistically, looking at what's involved in getting a heat pump system installed with pipe and radiator upgrades, I fear the affordability is just always going to be a sticking point.
Sorry, I've got no idea. Since I did the work myself there wasn't a labour cost which is a very significant cost for a HP install. Labour cost also fairies a lot depending on how much auxiliary work is required and where you are in the country. I would recommend trying to get a quote from a heat geek trained installer.
Hey, great video and very inspirational. I was just wondering how long would you say it took you to reach this kind of level of skill when it comes to plumbing and installing heat pumps? What sort of qualifications do you need? Thanks!
I just watched a lot of plumbing YT videos! Prior to installing a heat pump, I had done a bit of plumbing in kitchens and bathrooms. The hardest part about plumbing is getting all the fittings, it's common to need regular trips to the hardware store!
@@GlynHudson Thanks so much for the reply! I want to get less intimidated by plumbing so you've inspired me to try it out (although starting small haha).
@j.c.7780@j.c.7780 for general plumbing info Plumber Parts YT channel has got some good videoes. For heatpump specific stuff Heat Geek and Urban Plumbers are excellent. Good luck!
Great video, thanks Glyn. Where are the sensors for the monitoring (you might have mentioned them in the vid but I missed it)? How much do they add to the install cost, and the blower test? I’m so impressed with being able to put all this stuff in. I feel like it’s something I should learn but wouldn’t know where to start!
Thanks, the monitoring system is an openenergymonitor level 3 system shop.openenergymonitor.com/level-3-heat-pump-monitoring-bundle-emonhp/. Blower door tests are usally a few hundred pounds.
@@GlynHudson Thanks, probably worth having if only for diagnostics if having issues
Hi glyn, ive found your videos very interesting on the heat pumps, ive been asked to design and install a system for someone, any chance of some pointers of the basics? Not sure how else to get on touch. Thanks carl
Thanks, I would recommend watching Heat Geek and Urban Plumbers videos
Yes Ive been watching a few of those and playing with the heat punk program. Thanks 👍
What’s the scop at the low end of the hundred systems list?
The lowest system with complete MID approved data is 2.8, the average is 3.7. Take a look for yourself heatpumpmonitor.org
With the BUS grant and the 0% VAT on rads etc, would it have been cheaper to get a firm to come and fit it?
It would probably have been a similar price
@@GlynHudsonI'm sure it's incredibly satisfying completing such a great job, can't put a price on that 👍
I don't think you are allowed an isolation valve between unvented hot water cylinder and expansion vessel ? You have done a Great job putting in the new system 👍
I used a special service valve which can't be accidentally switched off, these are allowed and are very useful to avoid having to drain the tank when servicing the expansion vessel e.g www.bes.co.uk/expansion-vessel-service-valve-3-4-bsp-union-x-bsp-tm-23730/?ref=gs&rnd=18708&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaGYknSoygIm_GdwQDgKWZHPExpHAZWdofI6oAm4M23BUWKUetOTcF4aAhLIEALw_wcB
Could you tell me more about how you achieved such a high DHW COP?
Heat geek covered this in detail in this video th-cam.com/video/tAoRH_WEt78/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QZR5sEvuHS26oChy
@@GlynHudson Thank you!
So it's settings, and not physical install? I'm about to get a heat pump and wondering if it's worth the extra for the Newark Heat Geek cylinder vs, say a Joule Cyclone. It's really hard to find information on the performance difference due to the coil size difference.
@@Leo99929 This system just has a standard Telford heat pump Cylinder. The new Heat Geek cylinders are great and will give even better performance, but whether they are worth the extra cost, DHW is a relatively small % of the overall heat requirement. Focusing on the best space heating performance i.e the lowest possible design flow temperature by upgrading radiators will give a better return on investment. Any heat pump cylinder can get decent performance with the correct settings and recharge schedule. Although I wouldn't recommend the Telford Tempest.
Looks excellent. is it an open loop system or is there a circulation pump? I used a preplumbed cylinder from Daikin and it comes set-up with a buffer built into the tank and a circulation pump. This can be bypassed and just used as a volumiser if I like - which I think I may do. It's running about 100m2 of underfloor heating. Do need to speak to Daikin to figure out the pump settings for using it this way.
This system is running open loop with just the one circulation pump that's inside the heatpump. You shouldn't have any problem running open loop on your UFH, I would highly recommend it for best efficiency. Just make sure that you've got minimal zoning, try to keep as much of the system open as you can. No special settings should be required, just remove the 2nd pump. You also want to avoid having a blending valve or additonal pump on UFH manifold. Personally I would avoid Daikin, lots of folk are struggling to get Daikin units to perform well. Take a look at some of the threads on the openenergymonitor forums: community.openenergymonitor.org
@@GlynHudson Thanks for your reply, The system is pure weather compensation, no room stats, no zoning, no actuators, no blending valves or pump at the manifold. It just has the circulation pump on the cylinder which I guess is their sticking plaster to make all installations "work". That's interesting - I'm going to swap around the connections to remove the buffer and pump imminently - I'm hoping I can isolating the space heat circuit at the underfloor heating manifold and then make sure the diverter valve is on DHW so I dont have to do a full drain down and lose all my biocide and inhibitor!
@@GlynHudson I've switched them over now and isolated the buffer, it now just acts as a volumiser - makes so much more sense. I've had no issues with my Daikin unit, I was heavily involved in the overall design of the system, even on my previous buffer setup I achieved a cop of around 4.0 in moderate winter weather, though I am in one of the warmest parts of the UK. I predict this modification will definitely improve efficiency further though. It's the Altherma 3 Monoblock 8kW, the smaller unit size they do
@@jtrent90 that's excellent, nice work 👌
@GlynHudson Many thanks for this most helpful video. Just curious why you didn’t stick with Vaillant for your cylinder (price?). I have a narrow cupboard and see that your cylinder manufacturer does do some suitable slimline units that would fit. What influenced your choice of a Tempest hot water storage cylinder and would you recommend them?
Cost basicly! Your free to choose whatever cylinder suits your needs best, the heatpump doesn't mind what cylinder you use. I've actually got a 150L slimline Vaillant cylinder connected to my Samsung heatpump at home, you can see this in one of my earlier videos. The Telford cylinder is ok, but I'm actually not super impressed with it, it's got a very large coil but the coil layout is suboptimal for heat transfer. It's a decent budget option but other cylinders would get marginally better performance
@@GlynHudson Thanks so much - is there a brand you could recommend? I would like a 200l tank that would fit into a cupboard 550mm X 600mm, but with plenty of ceiling height (2.4m). I will possibly go with the 150L slimline Vaillant cylinder, but would ideally like 200l.
Glynn fantastic video. Could I please which supplier did you use for the compression flow rate meters? And the heat pump isolation valve levers? Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks, The Sontex 789 heat meter was from OpenEnergyMonitor and the Insta isolation valves were from BES
I find it "interesting" that Vaillant appears to be offering some components, like that solar powered outdoor temp sensor or the VR940f controller in the UK, but not here in Germany,. despite Vaillant being a german brand...🤔
That's really surprising, I wonder why that is? Could they just be available under a different part number?
@@GlynHudson
I don't think so. They are not even listed at Vaillant at all. No manuals, no nothing. Seems they are UK only, at least for now...?
This is really interesting Glyn - nice work chum. No gas use at all then?
No, gas is not available at this location anyway.
Hey Glyn thanks so much for your videos super helpful insights. I'm planning on doing a self install in France but struggling to find the outside design temperature for my area (74330) it can drop to -10 and occassionally -20 here in winter, do you know if setting my design to -3 is still sensible? thank you!
That's great to hear! Do you have a secondary heating source? E.g wood stove? If so, and if its -10/-20C for only few days of the year each year it would be more sensible to design for -3C and then supplement the heating when the temperature drops below -3C
@@GlynHudson thanks for the speedy reply! I don't but I'm currently trying to see if its a possibility, but its a little tricky in the layout with the roof shape and neighbours in the building (45m2 apartment over 3 floors) at present its on a single electric heater so even if it goes back to 1:1 spending on electric for. a few days I'll be so much better off. 2 floors have wet ufh that was run from an oil boiler so my install internally should be a breeze (I hope :D)
Very informative video can you tell me what company you used for the air tightness test and how much was the cost? It seems to be a very important test for the air change on the heat punk software ive played about with it all ready and just adjusting the air changes can drastically change the heat loss!
About £200- £300, I used www.walesbuildingperformance.co.uk/
Yep it works in My world war II concrete lookout as well
Can you tell us what the monthly electric bill total was in October, November & December 2023 and January, February and March 2024.
No one with a heat pump is willing to do this.
I wouldn't recommend sealing your house so it is airtight.
As an arotherm owner i would love to know a comparison of your monitoring scop to vaillants 'working figure' last year it claimed a scop of 5.2! I think its working well but not that well!
I've found the Vaillant onboard monitoring to over-report by about 4% compared to the independent monitoring, however this is reported to vary between systems, see this thread: community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-inbuilt-monitoring-vs-mid-meters/24230
Fantastic job and great attention to detail too. Are there any particular settings on the Vaillant that were hard to figure out / any that could have been easily missed ?
I'm planning a self-install during next summer, although I really feel I need some form of backup support in the years ahead, but I can't find any Vaillant installers yet in Ireland
Thanks. No really, the Vaillant controller is one of the best and easiest to setup, the import important setting is getting the heat curve set correctly. I cover this in the video. Best of luck with your install
@@GlynHudson What is the BES part number for the Inta Isolation valves. I'm not seeing them on their website. And how do you size the heating expansion vessel ? My Combi currently has it onboard.
Video a huge resource for anyone doing a self install
@@ChampionCCC they 25792, check to make sure your heatpump requires 1 1/4", most other heatpumps appart from Vaillant are 1". Lots of online resources for calculating EV size, it depends on water volume in system and max design temperature, no harm in EV being larger than needed, but if your space constrained it's surprising how small you can get away with.
@@GlynHudson Many thanks
I'm planning to install the same 7kW AroTHERM Plus. I like Vaillant, and have a Vaillant Combi currently
Wow, wish panel radiators were that reasonable price in the US!
Besides the VRC720f with the wireless temp sensor, are any other controllers used?
No, using manufacture's own controls with no zoning generally gives the best performance with a heat pump. We have TRVs fitted on rads, but these are just used for overheat protection
Hey Glyn 🙂 Awesome stuff! (Love your EV vids)…..can I ask did you receive the Boiler Upgrade grant for this. I’d love to do the same but wondering if it would be cost effective.
No I didn't, you either need to be MCS certified or use an MCS umbrella scheme to get the BUS grant
Hi Glyn, just a quick note to say thank you for your quick reply @@GlynHudson 👍
How do you get around the Permitted Development issue? (mainly at your house where it's mounted to the wall) As I understand this is the main issue in Wales where it is 1m.
I'd love to upgrade but literally no areas of my property are more than 1mtr away from a boundary or within view of a neighbours window? (Ex council end terrace house end of terrace at the turn in a road so triangular plot)
In Wales it's actually 3 meters which is crazy! However this is under review and will no doubt be reduced or abolished. If the system does not fall under permitted development it just means you need to apply for planning it will nearly always be approved but it's more hassle. I'm lucky both the installations I've been involved with don't have any neighbours within 3m. It's particularly crazy since modern heat pumps are so quiet
@@GlynHudson sorry i got that completely backwards as I read it's 1m in England Vs our 3m! Fingers crossed it's binned in the review...
How well was the house insulated? Looks great nice job.
Nothing special, quite standard really. It's got cavity wall insulation on some walls and non insulated cavity on others. About 150-200mm of loft insulation. Windows are decent but nothing special. Exterior doors are solid wood and quite poorly sealed.
Thanks for the reply, great video.
I had a Daikin fitted back in spring. Got to winter and the rads only get luke warm in the top 4" of the rads. Air has been bled and I've had the installers out so many times but still not fixed. I had it running at 18° on the madoka all day today and then raised to 21° when I got home. The because the rads do not get warm all over, the madoka shows 18° and no higher.
I'd love to know what you think as I had everything removed and upgraded, rads, pipework, the lot. So upset that I've been swindled
something is definitely not right. Your rads should be warm.
@@Etacovda63 it's been on 24 hours and the rads are tepid along the top and the bottom has no heat in them at all. Madoka thermostat struggles to show anything higher than 18°c and the back of the heat pump is frozen over. I've seen it go into defrost mode as the steam what comes off is biblical!
Had a look at the flow rate, it fluctuates between 15L to 19L.
So so upset by all of this, wish I would have just stayed with oil
@@garyhalkon8749 yeah, sounds like a nightmare. What temperature is it currently where you are? sub zero? what size is the heatpump? how many radiators? what is the house construction?
@@Etacovda63 temp outside is -2c temp in the house is at 17c from what it says on the onecta app. It's an Altherma HT I know that much. It was all properly sized and all the rads upgraded along with the pipework too. I'm just at a loss that not all the surface of the rads get warm, just the top quarter. I know that they're not supposed to be belting hot, but surely they should provide an even warmth from top to bottom. Also all the trv are open. It's a bungalow, with wall cavity and full roof insulation. Double glazed windows and composite doors.
@@Etacovda63 I'm in a village in East Yorkshire
This clearly highlights how these so called professional installers are crap when a self-installer can install a system that is far better than one installed by the so called experts.
Thanks for uploading and putting the scamming professional installers to shame.
.
Thanks, but I wouldn't go that far! There's lots of good installers out there. I don't think any installer wants to do a poor job, it's just until recently there's not been much good training available on the best ways to install heatpumps. There's a lot of heatpumps being installed in the same way as gas or oil boilers e.g oversized unit and undersized emitters and pipework. Good monitoring also helps to optimise the controlls and understand what works best.
how did you register your unvented cylinder to building control as i assume you do not have an unvented hot water qualification which is legally required
You do not need G3, that is only required for self certifying. All that is required is to notify BC and pay for their inspection.
@@normanboyes4983 I’m sorry but i don’t know where you got that information,you need g3 certification to install and service unvented hot water systems and professional installers pay a lot of money for that certification!
@@normanboyes4983That's interesting news for me. I want to fit an unvented cylinder as part of a gradual upgrade program heading towards replacing gas boiler for a heat pump. I did not know how to get over the 3G qualification issue. I'm happy to pay for a BC inspection. I will look further into the process.
Nice one 👍👍
Roughly what did the whole install cost if you dont mind me asking?
About £6k including all the radiators and cylinder. But since my labour was free this is cost is not representative. Vaillant heatpumps are quite expensive, it would be possible to reduce cost by £1-2k by using a cheaper heat pump.
Were you able to benefit from the UK government grant for this excellent installation? I thought that you need to use an MCS accredited installer to qualify - perhaps you are, but you keep saying that you are not an installer...
No, we didn't get to claim the grant but my labour was free so it was quite affordable. But I wouldn't recomend it since grant is so generous atm
@@GlynHudson thanks for responding. It's a shame that you can't get an MCS accredited installer to sign of a system installed by a competent homeowner. I suspect that the job you did was every bit as good as any MCS installer would provide.
Are you installing pumps these days, commercially?
I'm trying not too, but I keep getting sucked into helping people! I'm too busy in my day job to do this full time.
Those cylinders are cheap for a reason? I never see any pipe lagging on any sites, unlike solar which is free energy and the pipe comes lagged. This world is a bit nuts.
Ignore that last comment I have just found the room temp. Clearly no Parka required
Yup, temperature is around 21C during the day and 19C overnight, most evenings it's increased to 22C
@GlynHudson yes sorry about that. I did notice some don't show there room temp though, I would like to monitor mine as the Samsung readings on my controller are all over the place some days it says it has been running for 37 hours. I did speak to Samsung tech and they said take no notice of it it's not at all accurate. Would just be nice to see what my cop is but the cost for the equipment to monitor it is a bit to expensive. I am happy with my usage I use about 4000kwh a year on a 200 sq metre 220 year old house and that is keeping it at a constant 20 degrees. I guess that's reasonable
Come fit mine sir!
Froncysyllte
98sq m
Haha, I would love to, but I'm afraid the day job gets in the way. Best look for a Heat Geek certified installer www.heatgeek.com/find-a-heat-geek/