Great video, thanks for sharing your experience. another way to easily identify the combustion inlet/outlet is the fuel supply nipple is always closest to the inlet. one other observation, the black plastic can that comes with these for the combustion inlet is not a filter, it is a noise damper and actually restricts air flow a bit, if you are installing the unit in a location that is dusty, you're well served replacing it with an actual 25mm air filter to avoid fouling the combustion chamber with dust and particulates.
Wouldn't fine sawdust particles get through the filter and start a fire? I would think that would be another reason to pull air from the outside. Just asking... a beginner.
I suppose it would matter how much sawdust we're talking about here! I'm more concerned about fumes/vapors, which is why I'm relocating the air intake outside.
My pump works fine outside, I found a vacuum tube 90 I used on the fuel inlet, that's one thing I would change about the design. Pretty sure I slid on a piece of fiberglass heat shielding on it with a ss zip tie.
I’ve run it drawing combustible air from outside. It works fine until it gets really cold. The temps here go -20 to -40 Fahrenheit sometimes. When that happens the intake gets a lot of frost buildup and I worry it might clog. I do think pulling air from outside IS best, but that’s why I don’t do it. I may revisit this in the near future.
One day, I experienced a hot shutdown because of a accidental battery disconnection, and white exhaust smoke was coming out of the air filter. This lasted only a few seconds and likely contained more dangerous VOCs than CO. Given the likelihood of such unexpected shutdowns, I think the idea of running air intake inside is not as bad under some conditions. Using a smoke sensor in addition to the CO alarm is a good idea,.
@@walterflores5514 - I accidently removed power from heater once as well. Same results as you, a bit of white smoke came out of the intake filter, no other damage. There is a very good reason to NOT pull intake air from inside a building, especially a garage: combustible fumes (fuel, paint, etc.. - i.e. stuff typically stored in garages) can be sucked into the intake and into the burn chamber - that would be very bad. This is the reason wood stoves (or anything with an open flame) are not good in garages. It's for this reason that I'm looking for a way to bring in my combustible air from outside. I'll post an updated video when I do that.
@@TheGergeDIY Sounds right. I draw combustion air from inside since my unit is portable, and I operate it within a insulated fishing pop-up shack in very cold conditions. Just exhaust points out.
That's one of the reasons. In a garage, the air going into the burn chamber might contain combustible fumes from things normally stored in garages, including vehicles. It's for this reason that I'm working to configure my diesel heater to bring in combustible air from outside. As far as bringing in air from inside to the combustion chamber to then venting it outside; it does force cold outside air into the building. The effects are there, but I believe they are not that impactful and offset by the heat being produced by the heater. Most folks running wood or pellet stoves in a house don't have outside air fed into the burn chamber. Some people DO have their stoves plumbed like that, but I don't know many.
It can be, I understand that it’s probably better, but… I’m in a non-airtight garage and there is no chance of running out of air. I’m also in an extremely cold climate (we see -20 - -40), and the intake pipe gets frosty when run from outside. Thanks for the reply.
That was my dilema too,intake inside or outside,technicaly speaking,fresh air with fuel = clean burning so i put it outside and no exhaust smoke at all. Thanks
@@carlos_sacalul- I believe pulling the combustion air from outside is the more correct way to install. I struggle with it being so cold here that the intake pipe frosts over.
I agree with the outside air intake, but I understand the issue you are having. For me with lows never going below 25° I found the amount of vacuum created by having the intake inside my garage greatly diminished the ability to heat the whole garage. It effect was more of a bubble at best. After two days I drilled another hole in the steel plate heat shield and dropped the intake to outside air. The unit is in my opinion at least twice as efficient, warming the garage on low continuous heat. The sound of the intake is very loud as well so it is much quieter in the garage now. I ordered one to install in the tool box of my truck almost as soon as I had this one running. My big block never warms up until it is driven a few miles. I do notice these units have a lot of voltage draw to warm up the glow plug or whatever is igniting the diesel. It will draw down a fully charged group 24 on cold start. I believe I’ll need to still have the truck running but this will greatly improve comfort.
@@ryanmontgomery9192 - yeah, I've got an idea on how to pull the combustible air from outside. I believe it is the correct way to run these. I bet that will heat your truck right up! They do pull upwards of 10a on startup due to the glow plug running to get the combustion chamber fired up.
You need to locate the WHOLE UNIT outside - that's what they're designed for. Only the warmed air enters the building through a hole in the wall (snugly fitted to exclude stray fumes). (Dot)
It gets down to -40f where I'm at, I don't think the diesel fuel would do too well outside in those temps. I'm comfortable with the setup, and I have a carbon monoxide sensor in the garage (two of them actually).
Wouldn't that destroy the heater? How would you put it outside? A beginner... just asking. That's what I think too... the entire unit should be outside. Thank you.
It’s a straight through muffler with a spring in it. I don’t believe it contributes much, if any back pressure. I always use one, but I don’t know if it makes a difference or not.
I loved the way you warmed up the exhaust pipe with your hands to make it more pliable!
Great video, thanks for sharing your experience. another way to easily identify the combustion inlet/outlet is the fuel supply nipple is always closest to the inlet. one other observation, the black plastic can that comes with these for the combustion inlet is not a filter, it is a noise damper and actually restricts air flow a bit, if you are installing the unit in a location that is dusty, you're well served replacing it with an actual 25mm air filter to avoid fouling the combustion chamber with dust and particulates.
Ah, thanks for the info! I look at that inlet filter as something to keep the big bugs out! As you said, definitely not a real filter.
i think it would be best to draw the combustible air from outside?
Yes, it is safer that way. I planned to make that modification last year but never got around to it. Going to happen in the next couple of weeks.
Try heating the exhaust bend red hot before straightening?
some good tips thankyou
You're welcome!
Wouldn't fine sawdust particles get through the filter and start a fire? I would think that would be another reason to pull air from the outside. Just asking... a beginner.
I suppose it would matter how much sawdust we're talking about here! I'm more concerned about fumes/vapors, which is why I'm relocating the air intake outside.
My pump works fine outside, I found a vacuum tube 90 I used on the fuel inlet, that's one thing I would change about the design. Pretty sure I slid on a piece of fiberglass heat shielding on it with a ss zip tie.
Interesting, never thought about putting the pump outside. Temps here get well below zero (f), so I don't think it would work as well for me.
Is there a reason the air intake is inside? It's meant to be outside and if you lose power while running it will leak exhaust from the chamber.
I’ve run it drawing combustible air from outside. It works fine until it gets really cold. The temps here go -20 to -40 Fahrenheit sometimes. When that happens the intake gets a lot of frost buildup and I worry it might clog. I do think pulling air from outside IS best, but that’s why I don’t do it. I may revisit this in the near future.
@@TheGergeDIY that makes a lot of sense, thanks for the response
One day, I experienced a hot shutdown because of a accidental battery disconnection, and white exhaust smoke was coming out of the air filter. This lasted only a few seconds and likely contained more dangerous VOCs than CO. Given the likelihood of such unexpected shutdowns, I think the idea of running air intake inside is not as bad under some conditions. Using a smoke sensor in addition to the CO alarm is a good idea,.
@@walterflores5514 - I accidently removed power from heater once as well. Same results as you, a bit of white smoke came out of the intake filter, no other damage.
There is a very good reason to NOT pull intake air from inside a building, especially a garage: combustible fumes (fuel, paint, etc.. - i.e. stuff typically stored in garages) can be sucked into the intake and into the burn chamber - that would be very bad. This is the reason wood stoves (or anything with an open flame) are not good in garages.
It's for this reason that I'm looking for a way to bring in my combustible air from outside. I'll post an updated video when I do that.
@@TheGergeDIY Sounds right. I draw combustion air from inside since my unit is portable, and I operate it within a insulated fishing pop-up shack in very cold conditions. Just exhaust points out.
Does any body wrap the exhaust with thermal tape for fire protection reasons?
I need to get insulated pipe or wrap it because I want to run it through a window but it will burn/melt anything close to
Would a straight pipe without ribs not be better for the heater?
@raczyk - good question. The exhaust pipe definitely feels cheap and it’s certainly thin. I think that’s an area worth looking into for improvement.
What is the stuff on the inside of the exhaust pipe?
What stuff are you referring to?
Is the cement removable? Or is it a perminant installation?
@raczyk - it’s a strong bond, but it is removable. When I’ve removed an exhaust pipe, I clean it up with some light sanding.
@@TheGergeDIYhow do you break It loose, just twist it off?
@@crappymealpretty much, I just jiggle back and forth a little, twist a little, and it breaks free. I go slow and don’t force it.
The real reason the untake should come from outside is it diesn'5 create negative air pressure pulling in cold air from outside
That's one of the reasons. In a garage, the air going into the burn chamber might contain combustible fumes from things normally stored in garages, including vehicles. It's for this reason that I'm working to configure my diesel heater to bring in combustible air from outside.
As far as bringing in air from inside to the combustion chamber to then venting it outside; it does force cold outside air into the building. The effects are there, but I believe they are not that impactful and offset by the heat being produced by the heater. Most folks running wood or pellet stoves in a house don't have outside air fed into the burn chamber. Some people DO have their stoves plumbed like that, but I don't know many.
@@TheGergeDIY yes, true. Some wood heaters have a intake vent designed to be brought in from outside.
Just more efficient to bring it in from outside
None of these heaters are intrinsically safe for a combustible fumes environment. Pulling air from outside won’t affect that.
@Dave5843-d9m like Dad used to say, a little common sense goes a long way
Do my own homework to see if I could go through the wall safely... Bro why do you think I'm watching your video
How would he know what kind of wall you have? Duhhhhhh
1 metre is approximately 3 feet 3 inches
Do it right and reclaim the wasted exhaust heat before it goes outside.
I'm a beginner... not handy. How would you claim that heat from the exhaust? That's a great idea. Thank you.
@jeffvoght1632 search diesel heater exhaust recovery. Many ways
Use a hot air gun before straightening
Great tip! I’ll definitely do that next time.
Your muffler is messed up, mine don’t make any noises. 😂
Turn the heater on. 😀
@@TheGergeDIY yeh the running noise but not the clanging, would drive me nuts.
@@TinyGoHomesgotcha - mine's outside (and I hope everyone has theirs outside) and I don't hear it. Best of luck with your heater!
@@TheGergeDIYyeh I will do the same. Probably make a box for the noisy pump too.
The intake should also be outside
It can be, I understand that it’s probably better, but… I’m in a non-airtight garage and there is no chance of running out of air. I’m also in an extremely cold climate (we see -20 - -40), and the intake pipe gets frosty when run from outside. Thanks for the reply.
That was my dilema too,intake inside or outside,technicaly speaking,fresh air with fuel = clean burning so i put it outside and no exhaust smoke at all. Thanks
@@carlos_sacalul- I believe pulling the combustion air from outside is the more correct way to install. I struggle with it being so cold here that the intake pipe frosts over.
I agree with the outside air intake, but I understand the issue you are having. For me with lows never going below 25° I found the amount of vacuum created by having the intake inside my garage greatly diminished the ability to heat the whole garage. It effect was more of a bubble at best. After two days I drilled another hole in the steel plate heat shield and dropped the intake to outside air. The unit is in my opinion at least twice as efficient, warming the garage on low continuous heat. The sound of the intake is very loud as well so it is much quieter in the garage now.
I ordered one to install in the tool box of my truck almost as soon as I had this one running. My big block never warms up until it is driven a few miles. I do notice these units have a lot of voltage draw to warm up the glow plug or whatever is igniting the diesel. It will draw down a fully charged group 24 on cold start. I believe I’ll need to still have the truck running but this will greatly improve comfort.
@@ryanmontgomery9192 - yeah, I've got an idea on how to pull the combustible air from outside. I believe it is the correct way to run these. I bet that will heat your truck right up! They do pull upwards of 10a on startup due to the glow plug running to get the combustion chamber fired up.
You need to locate the WHOLE UNIT outside - that's what they're designed for. Only the warmed air enters the building through a hole in the wall (snugly fitted to exclude stray fumes). (Dot)
It gets down to -40f where I'm at, I don't think the diesel fuel would do too well outside in those temps. I'm comfortable with the setup, and I have a carbon monoxide sensor in the garage (two of them actually).
wrong
So wrong.
That’s absolutely not what they are designed for. They are designed to be internal, with the intake, exhaust and fuel tank to be external.
Wouldn't that destroy the heater? How would you put it outside? A beginner... just asking. That's what I think too... the entire unit should be outside. Thank you.
U got a cat?
Yes, and a dog!
Do you need to use the muffler?
It’s a straight through muffler with a spring in it. I don’t believe it contributes much, if any back pressure. I always use one, but I don’t know if it makes a difference or not.