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Not sure if there is a specific one for this unit or a generic one will work. Please let me know if you find one.

Yeah, for sure! You might notice the fuel in this one is red. :)

The speed/output of the heater doesn’t make a difference as to whether or not this works. The startup process is where the most current is drawn. In this case, it’s right on the edge for 10a for a brief moment, but my powerbank handles it. I’ve done it several times successfully.

​@@TheGergeDIY I was asking this because you made a video using the AC port to run the diesel heater. I thought you couldn't make it running using the DC port (without tripping the fuse) and somehow found a trick to make it work. But if I understand correctly it could've worked using DC only from the beginning.

@@TheGergeDIY Another question, does it still work if the battery is at less than 50% when starting the heater? Because as the voltage is lower it may need more amps to output the 130~140w necessary for startup if I understand it correctly

@@teiva - yes, you're correct, I did have that issue. I'm not really sure what changed, it may have been a firmware update in the Bluetti EB3A? I am now able to run off the DC side of the Bluetti though, which is awesome 'cause it runs twice as long. I'm also not using the cigarette plug any long, rather one of the DC outlets just below it. It's much more secure.

@@teiva - it does, I've started it below 50%. I think mine is using almost 100w at it's max draw during startup. I do make sure to leave some left over for shutdown, which also draws hard on the battery, but not as long as during startup.

Yeah, at least the software is free to try so you can get a taste of the capabilities.

You got a great deal for $250! I've got some JS and Amalgam captures as well, great stuff. Agreed about the Input Trim settings. There's another reason I like the OG Tonex: I get a capture pack and load the whole thing on the pedal, then I try 'em out easily with my gigging PA and pedal board. Much easier than trying rig it up through the TONEX software on the laptop. I do like the idea of the T1, but it just wasn't working for me.

@@TheGergeDIY yeah plus I noticed it is all about the play back source so if you gigging you should be try these tones on your gig volume and PA not the software that WILL always sound very different….. OG TONEX is the way to go 3 amp tones at the feet and all the pedals you might need of your choice \_/ I ended up rinsing Wah + 3 TONEX amps + Tube Scream + chorus ALL i truly need Live simple mindlessly enjoying playing live ;) !!!!

As far as I know, it does not.

@@TheGergeDIY Thats correct. I emailed Westinghouse.

@@justinmccoy7167 - excellent, appreciate the reply.

@@johnnydswing thanks. I’ve been enjoying this guitar quite a bit. It has held up well.

The manual states that it has an oil capacity of 1.16 quarts (1.1L). I didn't measure, just made sure the generator was level and filled it 'til the dip stick indicated it was at the correct level. Here's a link to the manual if you need to look anything up: cdn.westinghouseoutdoorpower.com/owners_manuals/WGen9500_manual_web.pdf

I believe we have a 10g cord that is 25' to get into the house. We also have a cutover power transfer switch that's being installed this summer so we can run part of our house directly from the generator.

Yeah, having that 3rd preset really makes this little pedal great for quite a few uses.

Glad the info was useful for you. Having that 3rd preset available when playing live makes this amazing pedal that much better.

Not familiar with the AC200MAX. That said, if you have the battery charger plugged into an AC OUT, it most definitely shouldn't be pulling power from the appliance it's hooked to.

How many quarts are to be put in?

I heard to avoid synthetic as well!

Excellent to know.

Have you confirmed the battery is fully charged? That's about all I can think of. Sorry I'm not more help.

I don’t… mine has always been dependable. Are you having some issues with one?

@josephbaumgardner - I don't recall seeing any parts in the box. I also don't remember unboxing it, or what happened to the manual, ha ha. I'll have to look in the garage though, 'cause I usually throw the manuals for stuff in a drawer.

Yeah, mine came with two brushes. I dug a little deeper and now understand what they are. Also good to have that part on hand.

Just found my manual (still in the plastic bag), but no brushes. It looks like they are available on Amazon if I ever need ‘em.

Well, it can't help. My outlet is a fairly straight shot to the breaker box. I've yet to have a nut this impact gun can't crack. The aluminum lug nuts on my ram truck are torqued to 130ft lbs and it pops 'em off no problem. My father-in-law's truck in this video had previously been torqued by a garage, so I'm certain they were tight. I didn't use a breaker bar, just the impact gun.

@@TheGergeDIY I know about the torque on your RAM, that's why I'm surprised mine struggles with an 80 lb/ft lugnut. Thanks for your response, great video btw.

@@TheGergeDIY I finally bought a 10ft 10awg heavy duty extension cord and was able to remove my cars lugnuts with no problem. It was the thickness and length of the cord that affected the power on the impact wrench for sure. Lesson learned!

@@exocetmm38that’s good to hear!

I don’t have one, but I think one of those lifepo batteries would be lighter than a leaded deep cycle. The thing is though, lithium loses efficiency below 32f and also can’t charge. Leaded does too, but not as bad. I have videos on the channel about the bluetti eb3a - that might work for you? They are lithium and also suffer in the cold; something to consider.

@@TheGergeDIY great insight thank you

Do not know and would not recommend. I'd say consult the manufacturer of the barrel.

Sounds like a great setup!

I’m wanting to do this. How are you wiring it from to battery to the actual heater. Are you able to explain a bit

@@ryderhunter7547 Use the battery adapter I sent the link for, it has four posts for the battery connection and bridges the battery for the 60 volts, hook up an inline fuse and run the power and ground wires to the stepdown converter that I sent the link to. Then run your power and ground wires from the output of the converter to the wire studs on your heater... If you want it to operate and shutdown before the battery is dead, you need a low voltage disconnect as well... I will send a link to it as well

@@ryderhunter7547 and I used a 48 volt relay to run the low power shut off from the battery connector side, otherwise you won't be able to set the disconnect voltage because out of the converter it's a constant 12.4 volts, and you want to set the voltage higher... Just test a battery that shuts itself off and see what the voltage is and set the disconnect a few volts above that, to ensure complete shutdown and cool off...

@@MrJackson66can you send me a link as well?

What I’ve found is I need a very sunny day to get the eb3a to charge. Yes, just leaving it on consumes power. I suspect this is due to the Bluetooth and whatever else is going on in the battery. It does seem to work well when on and connected to something to run it. And, when it’s off, it consumes nothing. For this reason, I’d recommend going with a LiFePO battery for a dedicated circuit like you’re describing.

@@TheGergeDIY After 3-4 days of research I've come to that same conclusion. I was just looking at batteries & charge controllers... got to figure how much self-consumption a charge controller will have, choose a battery with/without BMS built in, 100Ah enough? All the reviews/forums never seem to have these same concerns. I have come to the conclusion that Bluetooth isn't necessary for my application but I'd like an LCD display to monitor the battery. Ugh, I'm making a mountain out of a molehill with this project. Thanks for your time & reply.

I make many mountains out of projects. :)

That's one of the reasons. In a garage, the air going into the burn chamber might contain combustible fumes from things normally stored in garages, including vehicles. It's for this reason that I'm working to configure my diesel heater to bring in combustible air from outside. As far as bringing in air from inside to the combustion chamber to then venting it outside; it does force cold outside air into the building. The effects are there, but I believe they are not that impactful and offset by the heat being produced by the heater. Most folks running wood or pellet stoves in a house don't have outside air fed into the burn chamber. Some people DO have their stoves plumbed like that, but I don't know many.

@@TheGergeDIY yes, true. Some wood heaters have a intake vent designed to be brought in from outside. Just more efficient to bring it in from outside

When running on ac (as in this video), I do not have a battery backup. In other videos on the channel, I use a bluetti eb3a to power the heater. In this configuration, the power bank could be plugged in the wall and function as an UPS. As far as losing power while running, it’s not good, and I’ve had it happen. In my case no damage occurred to the heater. I wouldn’t do it on purpose, but I’m not overly concerned about it either. I did see some exhaust come out the air intake.

Thank you… I appreciate the information.

I don't disagree with you. There is a bit of "DIY" involved using a separate battery and charger (the victron isn't overly expensive, but it's certainly not cheap). The bluetti also has a built-in inverter for AC, solar hookup, etc... it's a bit more of a convenient grab-and-go package. Cost-wise, I think it's pretty close. I do agree that the bluetti should run longer - but also take into account the startup usage, and I'm going to guess the bluetooth might use up a little power as well.

Make sure you have the latest firmware installed on the EB3A. Alternatively, you can get an ac->dc power supply and run off the ac side. It uses more power, but it does work.

@TheGergeDIY it was updated and luckily I had an inverter that I brought with us and ran it that way. Uses way more power it only ran for 5 hours on the ac side with the inverter

@@stevenbrown2039yeah it does waste a lot of power doing it that way. I did see my current draw jump to just over 10a on startup but it was brief. The bluetti hung in there.

@TheGergeDIY well I'm glad urs did but ours would shut down around the 100watt point

@diona-3642 - I believe an E03 error is a glow plug fault. It could also be the heat sensor throwing the error. Do you have an alternate way to power it to rule out whether or not it's getting adequate power from the EB3A?

@@TheGergeDIY We’re going to try a different way! I got a group of camping buddies that run theirs using a AC 110V/220V to DC 12V 30A 360W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer Adapter

@@TheBlackPioneer that will work. I have video on my channel doing that. It does waste some power though.

You're welcome!

It isn't. You control it by running it faster or slower. The value is given in Hz, and it's how many times the fuel pump, pumps, per second.

Can’t say that I have.

That battery is from Walmart. Lead acid, sealed deep cycle. I forgot the exact model number, 29DC comes to mind? I believe it's 845CCA.

I've definitely considered getting a hardtail myself. The transparent black finish looks really nice.

Hmmmm, that's a great question. I wonder if there is some sort of cigarette plug to trickle charger type device available?

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the sub.