The culprit is the Expansion valve. Probably has trash built up on the high side port within the machined aluminum block. Can't see it with the naked eye. You'd have to cross section the expansion valve block with a saw if you want to get really scientific and technical. Your voltages are correct Sir especially when you trick the ECU. Good job and video btw.
I worked on a 2012 with the 3.5 ecoboost. Same issue. Head pressure was at 398 psi. Recovered the refrigerant and found it was very low. I recovered .32 kgs when it’s supposed to have .68 kgs. Vacuum and charged the system. Added dye and found it was leaking at the compressor. And the issue with the fans was resolved by doing so.
My trucks doing same thing, new a/c pressure switch does not fix problem. We even put a new condenser in my truck expecting to find a clog. No clog, new switch, system still reads 290psi on a gauge set. You’d better use a gauge set instead of trusting that switch for a pressure read. I have a feeling all you did here was ad resistance to get the switch to disengage. Problem isn’t the switch, system is probably actually making that high of pressure like mine is.
My 2016 Expedition is at the dealer for this same issue. Was not told anything you just explained. Experiencing everything you described. In addition I found my A/C blower fan resistor harness was slightly burnt/ melted. I will check/ replace the A/C pressure sensor when I pick it up today. Thank you!!!
Keith, although I can honestly say I've never seen one on their trucks(or even in a catalogue) Blue Point is the 'generic' or lesser brand of Snap-on, as far as as the A /C Clutch goes, in my experience they won't trigger the high pressure cut out (pressure switch) until about 350-400psi(depending on manufacturer) at least over here in Australia anyway! As always great video, an absolute wealth of knowledge!!!
I have a Sensor Simulator that I bought from Snap-On about 25 years ago, I don't remember the brand, but it still works great and is still relevant today. It does ohms , volts , and has a pulse generator to test O2 circuits.
I had a similar issue with my 2016 Limited. My fans were running on high as soon as turned my truck on. Funny thing was my interior thermometer on the radio was reading a false temp. Exterior temp at the moment was about 98 degrees, but radio was reading 118 degrees. I unhooked the ambient temperature sensor and immediately my fans had turned off. Looked in to the plugs and wiring and noticed there was rust build up and water build up. Cleaned all my connections and blew any water off and bam! Problem solved.
My 2013 F150 5.0 Litre did this. I changed my water pump and thermostat and it started. Took Ford two days to figure it out ans it turns out it was a bad thermostat. Yes I did install a new one but it was not the Ford OEM one. After the swap the coolant flew through the system and it was good to go. $180 CAN at the dealership.
Get ready, newer F-150's from what I have heard, are getting restricted exansion valves, the low side pulls into a vacuum, compressor shaft seal lets air in system then presto, you get fan speed stuck on high.
@@simplespeed84 . Five years go by quick. Anyways. Several factors, 1-cabin air filter Must be maintained, restricted airflow is partially to blame. 2- biased evap temp sensors have kept compressor on too long leading to low side pulling into a vacuum just long enough to allow air past compressor seal. 3- moisture or trash in system leading to restrictions. Again, allows low side to pull in a vacuum. I've also seen high pressure transducer circuit issues. Stick with basics first and make sure no hard fault codes exist.
2012 f150 FX4 3.5 V6 is doing this D: coolant reservoir was dry, so filled and replaced a hose that was leaking but still having the same problem as soon as heat or AC fans are turned on
As far as the clutch logic I wonder if ford thinks that since the static pressure is so high it would translate to the outside ambient being way over 130 degrees and will run the cooling compressor. Which is a bad idea still because the pressure would go even higher.
It won't there is a redundancy in the system it's a bypass valve builtin the compressor it will not allow the system to buildup excessive pressure even when the high pressure transducer fails and lie to the ecm
Your Ford Escape needs a new blower motor resistor and water cowling repair. 1-3 on the switch not work but ac clutch still turns. Freezing the condenser and causing a restriction sucking in ambient air overcharging system. Recovering system is a temp repair and will continue to over charge until correctly repaired
Another tool I must buy! Never looked to see if one was available (resistance tool) - had always planned on building my own, somehow, but never got around to it, and lost interest or forgot about it over the years. Great way to test the system with that skewed pressure switch! Maybe Ford figures they can relieve the high pressure by bursting a hose? Never know these days ... 🤣 Great diag, as always! Stay warm. :)
They do that to cycle the AC system. As the Engine Cylinder Head temp needs to know. If they don't match.. The AC will cut off to prevent overheating...I seen AC guys go crazy trying to fix the AC system. While it's the Head Temp Sensor that turns it off. And if you replace that sensor. Replace the pigtail harness. As they get heat rot from being up under that intake...
I just went through this yesterday. when I turned on my ac, the fan would run and be loud as hell. well my ac was over charged. I had 2.2 lbs of freon and it calls for 1.5 lbs. my mechanic evacuated the system and refilled to 1.5 lbs. now the fan doesn't turn on until the engine gets hot.
I think I would've noticed the comp running. But probably would went down the wrong path after that looking for a faulty comp signal. Need to adjust my logic. Thanks pal
Well I might as give this a shot. Why not as I pretty much changed the entire cooling system. Ill let you know what it does. I was convinced my engine cylinder sensor was the cause. One guy on youtube said it fixed his high speed fan issue.
Did you check the actual pressure with gauges?What if it really had the 300 psi on the high side due to a blocked orifice tube or expansion valve?Maybe someone charged the system with excessive freon also.
Had a 12 fusion pressure switch went open ...data pid was reading 499psi all the time. Fan ran max but ac compressor was locked out by ecu...so a little different but yeah who knows with ford
....... if you are working the cooling system on a F-150 with the V8 from about 2011 to 2017 or so and you install a new THERMOSTAT be sure to install a new 180 degree F or 187 degree F THERMOSTAT ..... the original Ford factory THERMOSTAT is a 190 degree F THERMOSTAT but if you re-install a new 190 degree F THERMOSTAT in your 2012 or 2013 F-150 with the V8 then the 2 electric radiator fans will run continuously after the engine warms up ...... the electric radiator fans will never cycle off ..... over 200 youtube contributors have observed this now ....... I learned the hard way myself but by watching youtuber's comments I learned how to fix the problem ...... I had installed a brand new 190 degree F THERMOSTAT and sure enough my fans ran all the time ...... I searched youtube and found the answer ..... I hope this makes things easier for my fellow do it yourself guys ..... posted by Jent.
My 2016 F150 does that same thing. Even in cold weather cold start and even more in hot weather cold start. Drives me crazy. I watched your video but don't understand nor know how to stop it. Can the dealership fix it?
I saw in another TH-cam that when you replaced the water pump and it does this it's because they didn't put a Ford thermostat back in. This truck only likes the real Ford thermostats no aftermarket.
That seemed to b IDS that u were looking at in the car. That tool makes sense. In the old days the sending unit would have 12 volts to it and the gauge would b like the voltmeter. As the wiper traveled up the resistance would drop and the voltage would go up. Full tank. That tool simply acts like the tank unit. Correct? Sorry. I have pea sized brain. But really always enjoy the vids. Ongoing education even I mean ESPECIALLY for 68 year old geezers. Thank u!!
Is the switch on the low side of the system that would explain why they would have the logic that way turn compressor on to reduce low side psi. Ill see you ya in syracuse sat I've been signed up since January for the same class I would like to shake your and Eric hands much respect for the both of u
Michael O skewed sensor. Could send false data so the hvac will tell the compressor to turn on to bring down the psi down but under normal operation you are correct
He didn't say if he verified pressure if its high side low side the pcm is turning the fan on high to cool the refrigerant down to bring the pressure down the ac compressor running constant my be a software problem Ik the fusions millans had that problem and would freeze in slow traffic
Mike Eustice it is quite normal to see those pressures in an a/c system, though you will never ever see that on the low side, period! Maybe around 100 maximum, with the system off & the pressure equalises on the low side but that's about it.
The real question to this problem is why is ford not doing anything about this . It's an ongoing problem with their product . And no guarantee they say if we shell out the dollars to fix it . Come on ford I'm a trades man . You don't fix this on your dollar I will sell this truck and never buy a ford product as long as I live . Just so you know I do have a GMC truck older but no engine lights on an blows ice cold a/ c . Trust me you don't fix this my employees will only get car allowance for other than ford . And 30 guys are employed. Get it together ford or give up.
My 2017 just had the water pump replaced and my cooling fans are screaming on high. They updated the module for the driveline and now my module for the radio/touch screen is not working again. Long long delays backup camera staying on. This module been replaced already. Ugh!
Shop changed out my water pump 2 years ago after it started leaking and my fans been on full blast ever since. Swapped out everything so far and still hasn't fixed it. A/c system is charged correctly. Guess I'll keep shutting this POS off in the drive-thru. Lol.
My Boss would have want to replace: The compressor, condenser, receiver dryer/accumulator, sensor, all lines, the evaporator core, the fans and still would say to the customer: “No guarantee”
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics i doubt thats like the old systems that have a pressure relief valve. But if it is an orifice tube system then the clutch might be cycling on an off very quickly to control refrigerant flow to the evap core?
Electronic tech here car/boat restorer / modifier custom painter i agree 100% . On my restored 2006 gxp 5.3 grand prix i added a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and switch to my cooling temp sensor in parallel after engine warms up on warm days turn on and fan come on to cool engine and trans coolers ( these car run super hot in my opinion and so does transmission because fans come on to late ) the 470 ohm tricks the system to come on much lower saving the trans .
I looked up on Advance Auto and also went to the their store. They're not listing anything as a sensor; they're all switches. If you don't mind, my truck is a 2009 F-350 6.4 Liter Diesel. What do you find that I'm not seeing? Sorry to ask but I did try...
@@NewLevelAuto I guess you can call it high. It speeds up and slows down as I "gas" on it, like the clutch is always engaged. I have turned it by hand with the engine off, so it didn't feel like it was 'locked' to the shaft. We're having cool temps this time of year and it will be engaged from the git go when I start the engine and drive off.
BAHHH! Jest go to autozoo and git a toggle switch and some wire. Hook up the fans to the switch and unplug the AC clutch. Done. Nice job on the diag. Keith.
My buddy currently has a faulty pressure switch I was telling him I thought it was… put my gauges on it pressure was normal on my snap on gauges … but computer read the numbers you just read off your laptop
My truck recently developed after changing the water pump and thermostat . Immediately after the service my fan has been running high. From what I've read online it appears to be an issue with the thermostat but I don' know how these parts work together to cause this issue. Could you provide some insight?
it did not run at high speed but now i did not hear it . I am thinking about my alternator. I changed thermostat and fill new coolant but still dont work . Please help
Kieth plz help.... dying out here...to hott...compresor dont turn on ..2010 f-150 ..can turn it on bidirectionly..checked everthing ...the mechenic said it could be the instrument cluster..is it possible...live ur channel..thanks in advance
I have a 2013 Ford F 150 3.5L V6 4V EC0-BOOST GTDI . The #12 Case Fuse for the Cooling keep blowing whenever they changes from low to high Speed. Can you or anyone having this problem help me Thanks.
My 2013 FX4 5.0 had this problem 3 years ago, and now, the problem is back. Radiator fans running on high whether you are engaging the heat or AC. Then, the dealership techs in Dartmouth NS Canada found the AC pressure at 408 psi which was excessively high. They checked and found the AC receiver dryer plugged. Their fix was to replace the A/C dryer bag?? and recharge the system. Was done under warranty at that time, but, now the vehicle warranty has expired, and the repair will be on my nickel. One solution from a guy who had the exact problem that I had was to replace the expansion valve in the AC system. That seemed to cure his problem. Has anyone had success with this?
That happens to my truck to I recommend change your thermostat but Make sure you put an original one to replace it That fix mine Original one!!!thermostate
So what was the actual fix. Something went wrong to make this happen. I’m having the same issue in my 2017 5.0 already changed the high pressure switch still having the same issues
Glenn. Same problem. I changed out the high pressure switch and still having the same problem. However when I unplug the switch before I start the engine the fan does not come on. When I plug it back in with the engine running the fan does not come on and everything is normal as I drive. If I shut the truck off then back on with it plugged in the fan comes on immediately.
Jeffery Calnan mine ended up being low charge of freon I have a small leak we charged it up... lasted a month or two started doing the same thing... recharged it with leak due this time to figure out where the leak is to make repairs
Does this have something to do with also cold air coming thru the vents? Currently I start the work truck up at 25 degrees Fahrenheit and it doesn’t ever seem to get warm unless I’m on the gas, and I have been noticing driving around town and the fans cook on super high even tho the engine hasn’t been running long and outside temp is near freezing
The blend motor for hot/cold is behind the radio, a little to the right. You can drop the passenger airbag down out of the way by removing the screws under it which are accessible when you drop the glove box completely open upside down and remove radio to get to the 2 screws securing the motor. The motor that controls defrost/face/floor is by the accelerator pedal.
The culprit is the Expansion valve. Probably has trash built up on the high side port within the machined aluminum block. Can't see it with the naked eye. You'd have to cross section the expansion valve block with a saw if you want to get really scientific and technical. Your voltages are correct Sir especially when you trick the ECU. Good job and video btw.
I worked on a 2012 with the 3.5 ecoboost. Same issue. Head pressure was at 398 psi. Recovered the refrigerant and found it was very low. I recovered .32 kgs when it’s supposed to have .68 kgs. Vacuum and charged the system. Added dye and found it was leaking at the compressor. And the issue with the fans was resolved by doing so.
Hello, my truck fans were aways on high when ac was turned on, added refrigerant and my fans now go on and off, i think i need to add a little more
I've seen quite a few cars run the fans on high due to bad a/c pressure switch/sensor
My trucks doing same thing, new a/c pressure switch does not fix problem. We even put a new condenser in my truck expecting to find a clog. No clog, new switch, system still reads 290psi on a gauge set. You’d better use a gauge set instead of trusting that switch for a pressure read. I have a feeling all you did here was ad resistance to get the switch to disengage. Problem isn’t the switch, system is probably actually making that high of pressure like mine is.
Impressive diagnosis. Definitely another aspect of the fan circuit to consider. Thanks!
My 2016 Expedition is at the dealer for this same issue. Was not told anything you just explained. Experiencing everything you described. In addition I found my A/C blower fan resistor harness was slightly burnt/ melted. I will check/ replace the A/C pressure sensor when I pick it up today. Thank you!!!
You have to look up the description an operation. 295 psi is high but is probably not the max allowable.
Keith, although I can honestly say I've never seen one on their trucks(or even in a catalogue) Blue Point is the 'generic' or lesser brand of Snap-on, as far as as the A /C Clutch goes, in my experience they won't trigger the high pressure cut out (pressure switch) until about 350-400psi(depending on manufacturer) at least over here in Australia anyway! As always great video, an absolute wealth of knowledge!!!
I have a Sensor Simulator that I bought from Snap-On about 25 years ago, I don't remember the brand, but it still works great and is still relevant today. It does ohms , volts , and has a pulse generator to test O2 circuits.
I had a similar issue with my 2016 Limited. My fans were running on high as soon as turned my truck on. Funny thing was my interior thermometer on the radio was reading a false temp. Exterior temp at the moment was about 98 degrees, but radio was reading 118 degrees. I unhooked the ambient temperature sensor and immediately my fans had turned off. Looked in to the plugs and wiring and noticed there was rust build up and water build up. Cleaned all my connections and blew any water off and bam! Problem solved.
Which plugs?
Is there a fix for this? I’m
Having this issue. Fans turn off when I turn the AC off
My 2013 F150 5.0 Litre did this. I changed my water pump and thermostat and it started. Took Ford two days to figure it out ans it turns out it was a bad thermostat. Yes I did install a new one but it was not the Ford OEM one. After the swap the coolant flew through the system and it was good to go. $180 CAN at the dealership.
Exact same problem with mine
JUST SHARED THAT REPAIR ON ALLDATA REPAIR YOU SIR ARE A GREAT TECH AND WE CAN LEARN A LOT FROM YOU
Thanks man. Didn't even know you could do that
It was my blow motor it cost 249.00 Canadian and 20mins to install so don't get ripped off by any mechanic it's under half hr to install
Get ready, newer F-150's from what I have heard, are getting restricted exansion valves, the low side pulls into a vacuum, compressor shaft seal lets air in system then presto, you get fan speed stuck on high.
So whats the fix?
@@simplespeed84 .
Five years go by quick.
Anyways. Several factors,
1-cabin air filter Must be maintained, restricted airflow is partially to blame.
2- biased evap temp sensors have kept compressor on too long leading to low side pulling into a vacuum just long enough to allow air past compressor seal.
3- moisture or trash in system leading to restrictions. Again, allows low side to pull in a vacuum.
I've also seen high pressure transducer circuit issues.
Stick with basics first and make sure no hard fault codes exist.
@@Joetechlincolns Thank you, i'll check it out.
2012 f150 FX4 3.5 V6 is doing this D: coolant reservoir was dry, so filled and replaced a hose that was leaking but still having the same problem as soon as heat or AC fans are turned on
So did you replace the pressure switch? Was the actual ac pressure high in the system? Thanks
More videos on the decade box please Keith. If you streamed live all day it would never get boring.
Simply Diagnostics I watched your facebook video as well 😉
Sorry I forgot I was signed into this account instead of my personal. I love your reasoning and thought process. Cheers, Steve.
As far as the clutch logic I wonder if ford thinks that since the static pressure is so high it would translate to the outside ambient being way over 130 degrees and will run the cooling compressor. Which is a bad idea still because the pressure would go even higher.
A little high or really high?
Joe Shearer nice thought there! 👍
It won't there is a redundancy in the system it's a bypass valve builtin the compressor it will not allow the system to buildup excessive pressure even when the high pressure transducer fails and lie to the ecm
I love that resistor box Keith. Good tip on not only checking the ECT. Why the compressor clutch turns on at 295 psi .... I'd like to know 🤤
My Ford Escape did this until it dumped all its refrigerant out one day after start up. Sounded like a big rig setting its parking brake.
Your Ford Escape needs a new blower motor resistor and water cowling repair. 1-3 on the switch not work but ac clutch still turns. Freezing the condenser and causing a restriction sucking in ambient air overcharging system. Recovering system is a temp repair and will continue to over charge until correctly repaired
Freezing evaporator
Another tool I must buy! Never looked to see if one was available (resistance tool) - had always planned on building my own, somehow, but never got around to it, and lost interest or forgot about it over the years. Great way to test the system with that skewed pressure switch!
Maybe Ford figures they can relieve the high pressure by bursting a hose? Never know these days ... 🤣
Great diag, as always! Stay warm. :)
They do that to cycle the AC system. As the Engine Cylinder Head temp needs to know. If they don't match.. The AC will cut off to prevent overheating...I seen AC guys go crazy trying to fix the AC system. While it's the Head Temp Sensor that turns it off. And if you replace that sensor. Replace the pigtail harness. As they get heat rot from being up under that intake...
So what was it? Bad sensor or too much AC?
I just went through this yesterday. when I turned on my ac, the fan would run and be loud as hell. well my ac was over charged. I had 2.2 lbs of freon and it calls for 1.5 lbs. my mechanic evacuated the system and refilled to 1.5 lbs. now the fan doesn't turn on until the engine gets hot.
How did it over charge? Ambient air?
@@craigbarker1077 I'd be curious to know the answer to his as well.
Is there a fix that was posted somewhere? I have this happening right now and the dealer states I need a complete A/C system replacement.
+Bert McLain this one was just a replacement of the high pressure sensor
Had this start happening in our 2014 after putting in some freeon. Thanks!
Our favorite mechanic in North Carolina with the fastest growing TH-cam channel would have replaced the fans. LOL
1970chevelle396 😄
I think I would've noticed the comp running. But probably would went down the wrong path after that looking for a faulty comp signal. Need to adjust my logic. Thanks pal
+S & A Auto DOD Dash Cams that honesty is why you are destined to become one of the best brother 👍
Well I might as give this a shot. Why not as I pretty much changed the entire cooling system. Ill let you know what it does. I was convinced my engine cylinder sensor was the cause. One guy on youtube said it fixed his high speed fan issue.
The OTC # 3385 instrument gauge tester
Thank you Keith. Good job.
Snap-on makes "blue point stuff" to the best of my recolection.
Did you check the actual pressure with gauges?What if it really had the 300 psi on the high side due to a blocked orifice tube or expansion valve?Maybe someone charged the system with excessive freon also.
That's pretty amazing work Keith, thanks.
Had a 12 fusion pressure switch went open ...data pid was reading 499psi all the time. Fan ran max but ac compressor was locked out by ecu...so a little different but yeah who knows with ford
I got a ford figo fan goes on but dont go off why
It's the a/c expansion valve. Just fixed the problem today.
....... if you are working the cooling system on a F-150 with the V8 from about 2011 to 2017 or so and you install a new THERMOSTAT be sure to install a new 180 degree F or 187 degree F THERMOSTAT ..... the original Ford factory THERMOSTAT is a 190 degree F THERMOSTAT but if you re-install a new 190 degree F THERMOSTAT in your 2012 or 2013 F-150 with the V8 then the 2 electric radiator fans will run continuously after the engine warms up ...... the electric radiator fans will never cycle off ..... over 200 youtube contributors have observed this now ....... I learned the hard way myself but by watching youtuber's comments I learned how to fix the problem ...... I had installed a brand new 190 degree F THERMOSTAT and sure enough my fans ran all the time ...... I searched youtube and found the answer ..... I hope this makes things easier for my fellow do it yourself guys ..... posted by Jent.
Nice on Keith! Always something interesting up there!
My 2016 F150 does that same thing. Even in cold weather cold start and even more in hot weather cold start.
Drives me crazy.
I watched your video but don't understand nor know how to stop it.
Can the dealership fix it?
the refrigerant pressure sensor is the failure shown here . Testing it is simple as shown
outstanding thank you mark mangano dependable auto
Great diagnostics my friend : )
lol
I have the same truck, same year. Didn’t have this issue til my local mechanic replaced the water pump, 106k miles.
Did you find a fix? Same issue
I saw in another TH-cam that when you replaced the water pump and it does this it's because they didn't put a Ford thermostat back in. This truck only likes the real Ford thermostats no aftermarket.
So what exactly is the wrong?
That’s what I was thinking? What was wrong?
Faulty a/c pressure switch sending inaccurate readings. The resistor box is showing the rest of the circuit is operating properly.
That seemed to b IDS that u were looking at in the car. That tool makes sense. In the old days the sending unit would have 12 volts to it and the gauge would b like the voltmeter. As the wiper traveled up the resistance would drop and the voltage would go up. Full tank. That tool simply acts like the tank unit. Correct? Sorry. I have pea sized brain. But really always enjoy the vids. Ongoing education even I mean ESPECIALLY for 68 year old geezers. Thank u!!
Bill Rimmer....I'm 70 and also still learning!
Bill
as a tech for 28 years everyday is a learning day
Is the switch on the low side of the system that would explain why they would have the logic that way turn compressor on to reduce low side psi. Ill see you ya in syracuse sat I've been signed up since January for the same class I would like to shake your and Eric hands much respect for the both of u
Mike Eustice there is no way in hell the low side will ever get 295 psi!!!
Michael O skewed sensor. Could send false data so the hvac will tell the compressor to turn on to bring down the psi down but under normal operation you are correct
He didn't say if he verified pressure if its high side low side the pcm is turning the fan on high to cool the refrigerant down to bring the pressure down the ac compressor running constant my be a software problem Ik the fusions millans had that problem and would freeze in slow traffic
Mike Eustice it is quite normal to see those pressures in an a/c system, though you will never ever see that on the low side, period! Maybe around 100 maximum, with the system off & the pressure equalises on the low side but that's about it.
Great VDO Keith as always!!!!!
Thank u for sharing your videos.
Did I miss the fix?
Me too. I think the answer is to replace the ac high pressure switch. Check other videos.
Low temps in the AC but high pressure.
They may cycle the pump to move oil out of the way ?
Did this fix the problem or just diagnose what was causing it ? I have a 2014 f150 that is doing the same thing ?
Same here did you find a fix? I replaced the thermostat, still having fans kick on an stay on.
Was it an oem ford thermostat?
The real question to this problem is why is ford not doing anything about this . It's an ongoing problem with their product . And no guarantee they say if we shell out the dollars to fix it . Come on ford I'm a trades man . You don't fix this on your dollar I will sell this truck and never buy a ford product as long as I live . Just so you know I do have a GMC truck older but no engine lights on an blows ice cold a/ c . Trust me you don't fix this my employees will only get car allowance for other than ford . And 30 guys are employed. Get it together ford or give up.
The generic name for this type of resistor box tool is a "Decade Box" they can be low cost or very expensive so shop around
My 2017 just had the water pump replaced and my cooling fans are screaming on high.
They updated the module for the driveline and now my module for the radio/touch screen is not working again. Long long delays backup camera staying on. This module been replaced already. Ugh!
Shop changed out my water pump 2 years ago after it started leaking and my fans been on full blast ever since. Swapped out everything so far and still hasn't fixed it. A/c system is charged correctly. Guess I'll keep shutting this POS off in the drive-thru. Lol.
I just pulled the ac fuse. Until i get around to fixing it correctly
My Boss would have want to replace:
The compressor, condenser, receiver dryer/accumulator, sensor, all lines, the evaporator core, the fans and still would say to the customer:
“No guarantee”
Is this the low or high pressure switch. My fans are staying on during normal operating temperature not shutting off
keith was it on defrost that will some times cycle the ac and turn the cooling fans on
Mine is doing this same issue with defogger or ac both situations,
Great vid, Keith! Ford logic: A/C pressure too high? Let's run the compressor 100% until it BLOWS UP!!! xD Now is that an orifice tube system?
What an excellent way to relieve high pressure ... QUICKLY! 😂
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics i doubt thats like the old systems that have a pressure relief valve. But if it is an orifice tube system then the clutch might be cycling on an off very quickly to control refrigerant flow to the evap core?
I’ve seen several of the ford escapes blow the clutch off,Sitting in splash pan
So how does the a/c pressure trigger the fans? In the ECU?
Love these quickies! More tool vids! 🤘
Nice diag. Keith as always😁
What if it only comes on during the summer? Mine is fine during the winter, but not the summer.
Could you simply use a volume knob (rheostat) and a DVM jumped in place of the tool?
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP yessir , just make sure you know the tolerance of the rheostat
Electronic tech here car/boat restorer / modifier custom painter i agree 100% . On my restored 2006 gxp 5.3 grand prix i added a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and switch to my cooling temp sensor in parallel after engine warms up on warm days turn on and fan come on to cool engine and trans coolers ( these car run super hot in my opinion and so does transmission because fans come on to late ) the 470 ohm tricks the system to come on much lower saving the trans .
Seems that I didnt get notified so little late on watching. Great Video as always
i have the same box but not with the snap on name. its black dont recall where i got it either. i also have had it for about 20 years or so
Run into this a lot on big rigs class 8 trucks
Another great short video from Keith to the point A=
Switch to clutch style fan. More reliable.
So is the consensus that the A/C pressure switch is causing the cooling fan to constantly run? Sorry to be lame but I didn't "get it".
Yes , pressure sensor had failed . Remember this is not a switch
Got it. Sensor, not switch. Thank you!
I looked up on Advance Auto and also went to the their store. They're not listing anything as a sensor; they're all switches. If you don't mind, my truck is a 2009 F-350 6.4 Liter Diesel. What do you find that I'm not seeing? Sorry to ask but I did try...
@@ElbertPoling ahhh , that's because the diesel only uses switches . What is the symptom you're having ? Just cooling fan stuck high?
@@NewLevelAuto I guess you can call it high. It speeds up and slows down as I "gas" on it, like the clutch is always engaged. I have turned it by hand with the engine off, so it didn't feel like it was 'locked' to the shaft. We're having cool temps this time of year and it will be engaged from the git go when I start the engine and drive off.
Hey, Keith have you ever had problems with the snap-on scanner u are using in this video? kus i was planning to get one.
Was the issue with high pressure or low pressure ac sensor?
High pressure I believe. Old video over 1,000 vehicles since then. I'm sure I mention in the video though
@@NewLevelAuto Does the whole ac system need to be recovered before changing out the sensor?
Nice find Keith!
BAHHH! Jest go to autozoo and git a toggle switch and some wire. Hook up the fans to the switch and unplug the AC clutch. Done.
Nice job on the diag. Keith.
My buddy currently has a faulty pressure switch I was telling him I thought it was… put my gauges on it pressure was normal on my snap on gauges … but computer read the numbers you just read off your laptop
My truck recently developed after changing the water pump and thermostat . Immediately after the service my fan has been running high. From what I've read online it appears to be an issue with the thermostat but I don' know how these parts work together to cause this issue. Could you provide some insight?
Great video! Thanks Keith!
pretty simple diag... cant believe they didnt check ac pressure! good work
nice a real thinker at work... thanks keith......
it did not run at high speed but now i did not hear it . I am thinking about my alternator. I changed thermostat and fill new coolant but still dont work . Please help
So is the expansion valve or the A/c pressure switch. I’m no mechanic but wanted some insight before going to a shop.
Pressure sensor in this case
@@NewLevelAuto
Thanks so much….👍
What is the part number for the switch?
Kieth plz help.... dying out here...to hott...compresor dont turn on ..2010 f-150 ..can turn it on bidirectionly..checked everthing ...the mechenic said it could be the instrument cluster..is it possible...live ur channel..thanks in advance
Eri Ginez pressure sensor data just like I did in the video. Need to know what it reada
I have a 2013 Ford F 150 3.5L V6 4V EC0-BOOST GTDI . The #12 Case Fuse for the Cooling keep blowing whenever they changes from low to high Speed. Can you or anyone having this problem help me Thanks.
which sensor wire did you probe the Resistant Box to?
Recup - vacuum - refill, pressure back to normal... So the pressure switch is doing her job. hmmmmm ????
you have fooled the pcm but where is your manifold gauges reading the proper pressures?
Done prior to video. Every AC diagnosis starts there . EVAC and recharge first with correct amount . I mentioned it in the video
My 2013 FX4 5.0 had this problem 3 years ago, and now, the problem is back. Radiator fans running on high whether you are engaging the heat or AC. Then, the dealership techs in Dartmouth NS Canada found the AC pressure at 408 psi which was excessively high. They checked and found the AC receiver dryer plugged. Their fix was to replace the A/C dryer bag?? and recharge the system. Was done under warranty at that time, but, now the vehicle warranty has expired, and the repair will be on my nickel. One solution from a guy who had the exact problem that I had was to replace the expansion valve in the AC system. That seemed to cure his problem. Has anyone had success with this?
Blue Point was a Division of Snap-On
Hello, I have this problem, can you fix it, please tell me where I can contact you
That happens to my truck to I recommend change your thermostat but Make sure you put an original one to replace it
That fix mine Original one!!!thermostate
mine runs on high with ac off or on never overheats i replaced the whole cooling system was doing it with stock or after market parts
So was the AC system pressure actually high or was the pressure sensor faulty? And how can you independently tell?
Thanks
Paul
Paul1958R because even when the compressor kicks on the voltage never changed on the sensor even the slightest
Thank you Keith and God bless
Paul
So what’s the fix? A new sensor?
It was on this one yes
Wellll, how you fix it, I see your great with the tools
So what was the actual fix. Something went wrong to make this happen. I’m having the same issue in my 2017 5.0 already changed the high pressure switch still having the same issues
Glenn. Same problem. I changed out the high pressure switch and still having the same problem. However when I unplug the switch before I start the engine the fan does not come on. When I plug it back in with the engine running the fan does not come on and everything is normal as I drive. If I shut the truck off then back on with it plugged in the fan comes on immediately.
Jeffery Calnan mine ended up being low charge of freon I have a small leak we charged it up... lasted a month or two started doing the same thing... recharged it with leak due this time to figure out where the leak is to make repairs
Does this have something to do with also cold air coming thru the vents? Currently I start the work truck up at 25 degrees Fahrenheit and it doesn’t ever seem to get warm unless I’m on the gas, and I have been noticing driving around town and the fans cook on super high even tho the engine hasn’t been running long and outside temp is near freezing
It most certainly could be the cause
I need help my 2011 f150 with dual zone only pumps out hot air in all zones
What blend door is the one that’s failing or is it something else
The blend motor for hot/cold is behind the radio, a little to the right. You can drop the passenger airbag down out of the way by removing the screws under it which are accessible when you drop the glove box completely open upside down and remove radio to get to the 2 screws securing the motor.
The motor that controls defrost/face/floor is by the accelerator pedal.
great work man I like it
Great video! Is there a way to read the pressure sensor reading with a scan tool without having to spend $3K on IDS?
Just replace it 30$
Do happen to know how to fix it?