I've had to do aftermarket security measures. One car was stolen, I have a second one now. Huge fan of these cars. NO CHIP KEY So, the car can be hotwired or forced with a screwdriver. My next step will be a professional install of a security system with an ignition kill.
I would also Recommend stay away from 3.5 very unreablie most cases Ives seen they been beat down by the department. Especially here in Seattle now isn’t the greatest at maintenance. Also my intercepter is black and you can still see all the decal imprints, a wax and polish helped make them less noticeable. I’d also recommend checking underbody for rust.
Man your knowledge on these cars is really impressive, between the differences in years and models its kinda mindblowing. Learned alot from just one video
Installed the 12v Solutions remote starter with the extended fob remotes yesterday. It took longer to take the panels off than to install the wiring harness and program the remotes. To my surprise, everything worked the first time - not because of the unit but because of my installation skills! I went with the fob option because my '17 didn't come with a factory fob and I didn't want the phone option.
The kit is super easy to install. The 15 Interceptor Utility is harder because you have to get to the BCM to attach unlock/lock wires if you're using long range remotes. Panels are super easy to come off. It's just not fat person friendly to get underneath the steering column lol. I had to call the people at 12 volt solutions because I was having programming issues. They were quick to solve my issue. They advised me to use a different programming method because the one in the instructions was different for vehicles with immobilizers. Person over the phone gave me instructions for programming without the PATS module. Worked flawlessly ever since.
Great setup i also set this one up , if you pull out the radio you can get to the ignition much easier. I had the radio out already because i was replacing it so it was simple
@@martintomasiewicz482 I'm sure you could but the connector is on the opposite side if I recall correctly. It's facing up and the clip is towards the firewall. It'd be logical to get access from underneath the dash. You can additionally drop that plastic shroud around the steering column to get easier access.
On the 17 i was able to access the ignition module from the radio area, you can go in from underneath but its a little harder. No other wires were needed on mine so it was pretty simple
Also i found out with my 2015 the engine mounts need to be replaced around 90k miles or sooner. Check for the proper coolant. If you have the pink coolant change it to the lemonade colored one. Another thing the main seal needs to be replaced its no longer a gasket it just a material like Permatex. Bought it with 3588 hours 788 idle hours. True 1 idle hour is equal to 33 driving miles.
2017 Interceptor no sync in mine.. i flipped out the radio to a Tesla style touch screen. Install was pretty simple . I would post a picture but it won’t let me on here. Also roof plugs i some plugs/caps that bolt down from inside also has a gasket to prevent leaks
I just bought a former MI state police 2015 PIU. The holes in the roof and dash don't bother me much - I have a ham radio license, and I don't have to be afraid of ruining anything by drilling or enlarging holes for antennas and for mounting radio equipment!
Good video.. i like the early generation... I just bought a 2017 in canada black unmarked with 340,000 kms 225,000 miles looks good.. highway miles no lights on the dash.. good tires lots of regular dealer service records.. paid 3500.. 4075.00 with auction n taxes in
Great dedication to make an hour long informative overview video outside in a 5 degree weather. Have you replaced side mirrors with turn signals, puddle light and BLIS ones? I have a pair now, but didn’t learn how to do it yet.
@@depolicify alright. Thank you. I look forward to it. I had some time to spend researching and checking the mirror connector on my 2015 PIU. The BLIS and the ground wires are there. The puddle light and the turn signal wires were missing on mine. For BLIS to work, it also needs two Blind Spot Monitoring sensors to be in the corners under the rear bumper covers. I didn’t check if mine had them. It may be too much for me if the wiring is not there. The puddle and turn signal can be wired and tapped somewhere in the kick panel, I think.
You can replace it with the mirror turn signals, you will have to wire them in because the harness for the mirrors are missing the wires for the turn signals.
Awesome video. Wished I saw it before I brought one. But I Stripped out the interior.. any one need pens? I scrubed and flex sealed the floor and added 4mil mats. Cleaned the vinyl flooring all new leather. Now for fluids... Cant wait to drive it. Mine had a black and yellow harness for the tech.
GREAT video! I'm going to the auction tomorrow and hope to purchase a unit. I have been trying to determine what is and is not a "Interceptor" Explorer. Is every "Police" titled Explorer a Interceptor? This auction is a Gov Surplus Auction from various municipalities.
Sometimes the gov agency calls them explorers, sometimes they call them Police Interceptor Utilities. Technically it is not an Explorer, it is a PIU, but not everyone realizes that. It is different then simply being a different package like XLT, Sport, Platinum. It is it's own vehicle.
Purchased a 2019 interceptor utility with damage due to a front impact. 3.7 intact but Lost the front radiator, ac compressor, transmission cooler, both headlights. Light switch works, radio works, hazards work. My problem is. The dash gauges are dead and the dash ignition is dead. No crank. Dead. The Battery is new. Any ideas?
I've notice when it comes to the DRL lights on the 16 PUI that the headlight module that mounts under the headlight says 1 way, but when you buy a module from OEM it says 2 way, I've had a guy at ford dealer that works on and programs the police vehicles to try to activate the DRL with no luck. I've replace the switch in the inside and the dummy sunload. Im guessing that would be the reason(assuming) I will try that option in the future
About your suspension which I'm having issues with: I'm still experiencing clunking after replacing suspension struts, lower control arm, ball joints and bushings and sway bar links. I'm still experiencing front end clunking. I'm also experiencing clunks in the rear suspension. Is there anything else I should try? Most of the clunking went away from the parts I've replaced.
When replacing the struts did you replace the entire assembly or do an overhaul? Sometimes the mount bushing can go bad and if you overhaul it still makes noise. The engine mounts can also be to blame for front end noises.
@@depolicify I've replaced the entire assembly, new coils and everything. I'll have to look at the motor mounts if they're making noise. I haven't figured out the cause of the rear end.
@@tyroneelder8241 I've replaced all major components basically. I still got a clunk. It's winter weather so I really can't check for motor mounts and what not.
@@depolicifydefinitely 17-19 some don’t know 13-16 have a fatal power steering issue after some odd miles in the 200k range it will fail and you will lose all steering. Its starting to be more known now that people are taking these beyond 200k y buddie is lucky to be alive after his accident cause if this issue.
Are there any known electrical issues with these cars? Got a 2013 from the police department 2 years ago. Since day one I haven’t had a working hvac system on heater, defrost or ac the system doesn’t even turn on. Unfortunately it’s not a simply issue like a blown fuse or blower motor relay or any thing like that. Everything had been replaced even the wires that lead to the blower motor. Not sure if this has happened to other maybe when the police cut out the sirens and lights. Just curious
I had a defective head unit on my 2017 but it was due to a windshield leak and water was dripping onto it. It was as simple as swapping it for a new one. Other than that If they went crazy cutting wires when removing the police equipment they could have cut something important.
Unfortunately no. Usually they happen after a rock has chipped the paint, so if you see it chip use a touchup paint pen to fill it in. I have seen them bubble even without a visible rock chip.
@@markmansel9899 I have read that it's galvanic corrosion from hardware used to mount the hood. A class action lawsuit has been brought up but I haven't seen one filed.
I am by no means an expert but I think your funny HVAC issue is related to your rats nest. I am not 100% sure but when the vehicle has the A/C on max I don’t think it will let you switch the vents from face only. I will have to look. I do have a question for you. I unfortunately have a squad from Wisconsin and I have rust forming on the inside of the doors in the door in the seam. Any solutions? I have already tried using a wire wheel and removing loose debris and going over it with Eastwood rust neutralizer. This didn’t seem to do it all the way. I am kinda thinking I just need some different doors.
You may be right. I do believe it is just a corroded circuit board so I have a replacement on the way, but if that does not work then into the rats nest I go.
You have been so helpful with my FPIU best FPIU content on youtube
I'm glad you've found them useful. I appreciate the support.
@@depolicify I agree. Wish I would have found this or had this back in '18 when I bought my '15 PIU.
I've had to do aftermarket security measures.
One car was stolen, I have a second one now. Huge fan of these cars.
NO CHIP KEY
So, the car can be hotwired or forced with a screwdriver.
My next step will be a professional install of a security system with an ignition kill.
I would also Recommend stay away from 3.5 very unreablie most cases Ives seen they been beat down by the department. Especially here in Seattle now isn’t the greatest at maintenance.
Also my intercepter is black and you can still see all the decal imprints, a wax and polish helped make them less noticeable. I’d also recommend checking underbody for rust.
So if you don't want the decal imprints do you just get the vehicle resprayed?
Man your knowledge on these cars is really impressive, between the differences in years and models its kinda mindblowing. Learned alot from just one video
You have been an absolute god send. I've learned so much from binge watching your vids
Installed the 12v Solutions remote starter with the extended fob remotes yesterday. It took longer to take the panels off than to install the wiring harness and program the remotes. To my surprise, everything worked the first time - not because of the unit but because of my installation skills! I went with the fob option because my '17 didn't come with a factory fob and I didn't want the phone option.
Same here, I will say the 12volt solution remote start is pretty decent.
The kit is super easy to install. The 15 Interceptor Utility is harder because you have to get to the BCM to attach unlock/lock wires if you're using long range remotes. Panels are super easy to come off. It's just not fat person friendly to get underneath the steering column lol. I had to call the people at 12 volt solutions because I was having programming issues. They were quick to solve my issue. They advised me to use a different programming method because the one in the instructions was different for vehicles with immobilizers. Person over the phone gave me instructions for programming without the PATS module. Worked flawlessly ever since.
Great setup i also set this one up , if you pull out the radio you can get to the ignition much easier. I had the radio out already because i was replacing it so it was simple
@@martintomasiewicz482 I'm sure you could but the connector is on the opposite side if I recall correctly. It's facing up and the clip is towards the firewall. It'd be logical to get access from underneath the dash. You can additionally drop that plastic shroud around the steering column to get easier access.
On the 17 i was able to access the ignition module from the radio area, you can go in from underneath but its a little harder. No other wires were needed on mine so it was pretty simple
There are so many of these cars out there, it's surprising there isn't more info and content about it. Thank you!! *subs*
You answered the age old question to what those odd plastic sticks are in my glove box… it’s the lock indicator for the rear seats! Thankyou!
You should also be able to use your keys
@@FrootyYodels Using my keys doesn't fix the aesthetics issue I have. But I appreciate the feedback.
Also i found out with my 2015 the engine mounts need to be replaced around 90k miles or sooner. Check for the proper coolant. If you have the pink coolant change it to the lemonade colored one. Another thing the main seal needs to be replaced its no longer a gasket it just a material like Permatex. Bought it with 3588 hours 788 idle hours. True 1 idle hour is equal to 33 driving miles.
2017 Interceptor no sync in mine.. i flipped out the radio to a Tesla style touch screen. Install was pretty simple . I would post a picture but it won’t let me on here. Also roof plugs i some plugs/caps that bolt down from inside also has a gasket to prevent leaks
Would you share a link or the product name for the screw on roof caps?
Where did you buy the screen from?
I just bought a former MI state police 2015 PIU. The holes in the roof and dash don't bother me much - I have a ham radio license, and I don't have to be afraid of ruining anything by drilling or enlarging holes for antennas and for mounting radio equipment!
Great content!
Thank you
Thanks for the support!
Good video.. i like the early generation...
I just bought a 2017 in canada black unmarked with 340,000 kms 225,000 miles looks good.. highway miles no lights on the dash.. good tires lots of regular dealer service records.. paid 3500.. 4075.00 with auction n taxes in
Great dedication to make an hour long informative overview video outside in a 5 degree weather. Have you replaced side mirrors with turn signals, puddle light and BLIS ones? I have a pair now, but didn’t learn how to do it yet.
I have not, but It may be in the future if I can find a pair.
@@depolicify alright. Thank you. I look forward to it. I had some time to spend researching and checking the mirror connector on my 2015 PIU. The BLIS and the ground wires are there. The puddle light and the turn signal wires were missing on mine. For BLIS to work, it also needs two Blind Spot Monitoring sensors to be in the corners under the rear bumper covers. I didn’t check if mine had them. It may be too much for me if the wiring is not there. The puddle and turn signal can be wired and tapped somewhere in the kick panel, I think.
@@depolicify ok, I sent you an email on that.
You can replace it with the mirror turn signals, you will have to wire them in because the harness for the mirrors are missing the wires for the turn signals.
Awesome video. Wished I saw it before I brought one. But I Stripped out the interior.. any one need pens?
I scrubed and flex sealed the floor and added 4mil mats. Cleaned the vinyl flooring all new leather. Now for fluids...
Cant wait to drive it. Mine had a black and yellow harness for the tech.
3.5L eco has the timing driven water pump too. Easier to get to since it is turned to the front, but still have to take off the timing cover.
I prefer the 3.7 engine too then the 3.5 ecoboost lol but for civilian I perfect the ecoboost sport explorer
Would love to see what you come up with on the DRL, other than replacing the expensive headlight
I never knew you can literally walk in to a PD then just buy their cars. Are you going to do a video on the 2020-present FPIUs?
Have you tried Forcescan I believe it's called. Does it allow to turn on the remote start feature?
Very informative!
Good video!
The a/c shuts off on mine at full throttle. Is that normal?
I don't know myself but I would guess it to be normal under WOT as the AC does suck power
Have you ever used Forscan to change the steering wheel aux buttons back to radio controls?
I would like to transfer a set of factory ballistic panels on a 2017 Police utility of the same year. Has anyone done this?
You have all the lights and wigwag controller. 😮
GREAT video! I'm going to the auction tomorrow and hope to purchase a unit. I have been trying to determine what is and is not a "Interceptor" Explorer. Is every "Police" titled Explorer a Interceptor?
This auction is a Gov Surplus Auction from various municipalities.
Sometimes the gov agency calls them explorers, sometimes they call them Police Interceptor Utilities. Technically it is not an Explorer, it is a PIU, but not everyone realizes that. It is different then simply being a different package like XLT, Sport, Platinum. It is it's own vehicle.
Where can u but this trucks and how ?
Purchased a 2019 interceptor utility with damage due to a front impact. 3.7 intact but Lost the front radiator, ac compressor, transmission cooler, both headlights.
Light switch works, radio works, hazards work.
My problem is. The dash gauges are dead and the dash ignition is dead. No crank. Dead. The Battery is new. Any ideas?
I've notice when it comes to the DRL lights on the 16 PUI that the headlight module that mounts under the headlight says 1 way, but when you buy a module from OEM it says 2 way, I've had a guy at ford dealer that works on and programs the police vehicles to try to activate the DRL with no luck. I've replace the switch in the inside and the dummy sunload. Im guessing that would be the reason(assuming) I will try that option in the future
About your suspension which I'm having issues with: I'm still experiencing clunking after replacing suspension struts, lower control arm, ball joints and bushings and sway bar links. I'm still experiencing front end clunking. I'm also experiencing clunks in the rear suspension. Is there anything else I should try? Most of the clunking went away from the parts I've replaced.
When replacing the struts did you replace the entire assembly or do an overhaul? Sometimes the mount bushing can go bad and if you overhaul it still makes noise. The engine mounts can also be to blame for front end noises.
@@depolicify I've replaced the entire assembly, new coils and everything. I'll have to look at the motor mounts if they're making noise. I haven't figured out the cause of the rear end.
I have a 16 PUI, with same clunking, I was thinking it's the struts, but seeing your comments IDK
@@tyroneelder8241 I've replaced all major components basically. I still got a clunk. It's winter weather so I really can't check for motor mounts and what not.
Anyone know how to add a blind spot sensor to the mirrors? Been looking at some aftermarket solutions
What are the best years to buy and which ones better 3.5 or 3.7 can you upgrade the 3.5 turbos for more performance thanks
Personally I think 17-19 are the best years, but I also have a 13 that I like a lot. I would stick with the 3.7
I looked at the 16 and up for the lights
@@depolicifydefinitely 17-19 some don’t know 13-16 have a fatal power steering issue after some odd miles in the 200k range it will fail and you will lose all steering. Its starting to be more known now that people are taking these beyond 200k y buddie is lucky to be alive after his accident cause if this issue.
Supposedly 17-19 the issue was fixed from ford.
Are there any known electrical issues with these cars? Got a 2013 from the police department 2 years ago. Since day one I haven’t had a working hvac system on heater, defrost or ac the system doesn’t even turn on. Unfortunately it’s not a simply issue like a blown fuse or blower motor relay or any thing like that. Everything had been replaced even the wires that lead to the blower motor. Not sure if this has happened to other maybe when the police cut out the sirens and lights. Just curious
I had a defective head unit on my 2017 but it was due to a windshield leak and water was dripping onto it. It was as simple as swapping it for a new one. Other than that If they went crazy cutting wires when removing the police equipment they could have cut something important.
Do you have any ideas to help prevent or fix the hood bubbles?
Unfortunately no. Usually they happen after a rock has chipped the paint, so if you see it chip use a touchup paint pen to fill it in. I have seen them bubble even without a visible rock chip.
That is caused by a defect in the painting process from factory.
@@markmansel9899 I have read that it's galvanic corrosion from hardware used to mount the hood. A class action lawsuit has been brought up but I haven't seen one filed.
I am by no means an expert but I think your funny HVAC issue is related to your rats nest. I am not 100% sure but when the vehicle has the A/C on max I don’t think it will let you switch the vents from face only. I will have to look. I do have a question for you. I unfortunately have a squad from Wisconsin and I have rust forming on the inside of the doors in the door in the seam. Any solutions? I have already tried using a wire wheel and removing loose debris and going over it with Eastwood rust neutralizer. This didn’t seem to do it all the way. I am kinda thinking I just need some different doors.
You may be right. I do believe it is just a corroded circuit board so I have a replacement on the way, but if that does not work then into the rats nest I go.
How cold is it there? Looks like you were struggling to open the doors a little bit
It was about -10F when filming if I recall, but now it's nice and 65F.
where can i buy the shifter center console cover that you make?
I have a link in the description
Evap sensor. Air in the engine. Anything with that damn fuel system XD. Big pain in the ass