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If you have sync, it is sync 1. You know you have it if you can connect to bluetooth.

It never asks you which version of sync you have? Is this something that happens the first time you connect only?

Ok thanks also where did you get the code sheets for the as built data?

Any Explorer console from 2011-2019

On a 15 Taurus PIS

I did my swap for about $500 by going through my local salvage yard.

@@depolicify Seems reasonable. I just hate forgetting parts. I know I need the trim, touch screen, APIM, and wiring harness... and a SYNC 1 to SYNC 3 harness (I think) Thanks for the reply.

@@AgentLokVokun The only harness is the sync 1 to 3. I used a cheap ebay harness and it worked fine. Just double check that all the pins are straight in the plugs. If they are a little bent then you can ruin it by connecting the plugs. You also need a sync 3 media hub (the usb ports) and its cable. Not all APIMs are GPS compatible, so you need the antenna depending on which APIM you get.

So far so good. Since it is the OEM remote it does pretty well.

Just saw the description with the part link! Do you get most of your parts for the other mods in your videos from Amazon?

It is a debated topic, but my opinion is that the 2015-17 5.0 F-150 is the most reliable truck on the market. It is the 2nd generation 5.0. The first gen had oil consumption issues, the 3rd+ gen had major oil issues, but the 15-17 is bullet proof. The 3.5TT is a great engine, but those turbos have to be replaced eventually and they are expensive. If they fail before you realize it you can end up with an expensive engine tear down.

That is interesting. I have a 2016 Console that had the RGB wires. Maybe newer years switch to a LIN system like the newer F-150's did. In that case you cannot use the OEM light modules because the wire going to them are a data signal that the BCM uses to send various frequencies through and the light changes that way. If that is your situation then your only option is aftermarket LED's. I would need to see what your wiring looks like to be sure.

@depolicify I could get pictures to you, if you wouldn't mind. I'm fairly stumped after working on it the past day. I need to get a power pack to try and test the wires without installing them to see if they'd just light up blue or not.

Also, from a Ford diagnostics manual I have for a 2017 Ford Explorer, it states: The front fog lamp system consists of: Front fog lamps Front fog lamp switch (integrated into the headlamp switch) BCM The front fog lamps can be turned on when the ignition is in RUN, the parking lamps are on, and the high beams are off. I'm curious if you made sure that the ignition was set to the RUN position when you tested the fog lights? I'm about to start this project on my 2017 PIU, I'm unsure if I have the harness that contains the C152/C162 Connectors for the fog lights but I noticed that the connectors for the Front Parking assist sensors are present. I'm assuming that they are a part of the same harness and that the connectors are tucked under the headlight or nearby according to a diagram with the 3D connector location views.

UPDATE: I setup the wiring from the Headlight switch to the BCM, even though its mentioned in the video, I'll include details about pins and wiring below. Disconnect your battery to be safe when dealing with the electronics!!! This will be more important later on.. Pin 14 from the fog light switch goes to pin 20 in connector C2280B on the BCM. NOTE: The amazon kit I bought for depinning/repining is mostly garbage. The depinning tools are weak metal trash - I was able to get some use out of them but if you're going to be doing this, I'd highly recommend spending 10/20$ more for a quality kit. ALSO NOTE: The pins in the included kit do not really work with any of the OEM ford connectors, I'd recommend if you want a neater/more stable connections to cut off connectors at your local junkyard to use. That being said, I did not bother to get the correct pins for the connectors, instead I just stripped wires down to a length where the end of the wire is at the bottom of the female connector and that the insulation at the back of the connector is slightly contained within the connector housing. ANOTHER NOTE: I already completed all the Forscan changes from this video, in addition, I also enabled 'Corner Light mode for fog lights', which is just a preference and the function is explained in my previous comment. Once I placed the wire signal wire in both connectors (switch and C2280B), and put the electrical tape over the back of the connectors to help keep them in place, I tested the fog light button - yay the instrument panel shows up with the Fog light on light. BEWARE: If you are working during the daylight and have your Headlight switch set to "Auto", your fog light may not light up on the instrument panel. Simply switch your knob to the manual 'headlight on' setting and try again - I ran into this issue and thought something about my wiring is bad. If you still aren't able to see the fog light on the instrument panel, double check that you enabled all the Forscan settings from this video regarding the Fog Lights, then double check that your signal wire is deep enough in the connectors to make contact with the male pins from the Headlight Switch and BCM - and make sure you're using the correct pins!! I skipped mentioning the step of moving the interior light pin to the correct pin, but he explains that in the video! The female connectors should have the pins labeled for reference. Now that this part is complete: DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FOR THE NEXT STEPS OR YOU MIGHT SHORT CIRUCIT SOMETHING OR ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF!!!! Now that your battery is disconnected (seriously, even if you don't do it for your own safety, at least do it so you don't fry your BCM): You'll want to measure out the approximate lengths of wire you'll need to run power from the BCM to each fog light. I'm using 18AWG copper stranded-tinned wire that I got from Amazon, but I'm running Amber LEDs which don't demand a lot of power, you may need a thicker gauge for more power lights/ HIDS/Halogens - do research based on the bulbs you have - make sure you leave yourself enough leftover incase its too short, give yourself at least an extra 2 feet for some unforeseen obstacles you'll have to route your wire around. I measured from the edge of the driver door to the front headlight (+2feet just incase) and then from the edge of the driver door, around the fender, around the front of the bumper to the right headlight (+2feet), then cut the two-separate wires to length. Add the female pin to each of your fog light power wires if you were able to salvage one to one end of each of your wires. If you don't have them, don't worry. You'll now want to access the C2280G connector on the BCM - remove it from the BCM. The top of the connector cover can be popped off with a flathead screwdriver in the open position for access. Pop off the pin alignment cap with your fingernails or a stubby flathead one at a time and slide off. If you have the connector pins on the wire, add your shorter wire (left fog light) to Pin 12 in the C2280G connector. Add the longer wire (right fog light) to Pin 5 in C2280G. If you don't have the female connectors, do the same thing we did for the headlight switch, insert the stripped wire deep enough into the connector and make sure the insulation reaches inside the back side of the connector! Very important for the insulation to go inside the connector so the ends don't short circuit anything/each other! -TIP: To ensure a better connection and since these pins are towards the outside of the connectors, I left a bit of wire out of the mating/front end of the connector and bent it over the side before replacing the pin alignment cap. -TIP: Cover the back end of the new wires with a little bit of electrical tape for some extra stability/friction so they stay in place. Replace the pin alignment cover, replace the cap for the C2280G connector. Plug the connector back in. MAKE SURE THE OTHER END OF THE FOG LIGHT WIRES ARE NOT TOUCHING EACH OTHER!! I recommend wrapping one end in electrical tape for the next step. You can test to see if the wiring works so far by splicing one of the power wires to your fog light bulb connector (H10 pigtail for me). Ensuring the other wire won't short circuit, you can now reconnect your car battery. Ensure the fog light is illuminated on the dash, then go and touch the ground end of your pigtail on the ground of the car battery. If everything is setup properly, your fog light should turn on! The rest is the easy part. As for routing the wires from the BCM to the fog lights, I pulled up my vinyl floor under the gas pedal, there is an existing grommet where the shifter cable goes. I routed my wires through there, and up by the brake booster. I recommend having a friend to help you and getting a cable sheathe to protect the wires from rubbing, heat and the elements. From there, route your wires appropriately to the locations of each fog light, find a good ground near each fog light, test the lights and voila - you have OEM-ish fog lights. If it's not working, make sure your ground is good! Sand off the paint if necessary. This has been an awesome project for myself as I've learned about wiring diagrams, wire gauges and choosing the appropriate wire for the job, and depinning/repining connectors. I hope this helps motivate/inform some of you that you can do the job!! Just do your proper research.

Me as fuck tryna look like a bot

Yes, link in the description

@@jasondayton1581 correct

@@depolicify That's what I figured. Love the videos. Very helpful.

Yes, link in the description