The same exact thing happened to me - bought an '18 and didn't realize the PO un-peened the countershaft nut. Noticed it when I went to change out tires/sprockets/chain.
Hey Liam, I have the same issue with my countershaft. I'm debating whether to keep riding, or to replace the shaft. I lost about 30% of the useful shaft spline.
The way I look at it is if you have no support system i.e. no one to come get you when you night break down, do the repair. I was actually able to torque the nut on the sprocket down so tight it didnt move. you could probably do the same, although youll probably have to cut it off when you do the swap, completely destroying the shafts spline.
I was probably at 70% spline death and it was still going. if the spline has nothing but little triangular slits for spline engagement, thats pretty worn. if theres still a flat section at the top of the spline teeth, Id keep riding.
@@DeltaOps3 70% spline death! I like the gnarly way that sounds. Yeah, I'm capable of doing the repair, but I'm not yet convinced it's necessary. What gives me pause is passing the bike along to the next person with this problem uncorrected.
@@WReckeR306 same. Thing is too I didnt want it on my consciousness that I would eventually have to pass on the bike to get my money back out of it, since I really liked the bike it was better for me to just fix it and keep it. I have all the footage of the repair done, I just havent edited it yet. There was a big problem that kept me from finishing, the bike sputtered and felt like was dragging, and the clutch and everything felt super weird. What I think us the problem is the cam chain tensioner is upset being re used, it is putting too much tension on the chain and causing the motor to drag and be low on power. I ordered and installed a manual cam chain tensioner to try to fix the problem, but then I accidently broke an inlet off the gastank, and the bike has been sitting since. I ordered more parts. I wanted to confirm the bike is running good before I upload the entire guide. Im sure I did everything correctly but I want to make sure.
@@DeltaOps3 I see. I rebuilt the engine of my ZX12R street bike in 2018, after dropping a valve. It was my first time, although I'd done valve clearances before (maybe I did it wrong, and caused that failure!! ha, to even think of it, smh...). The only problems on startup were a loose fuel hose clamp and coolant hose clamp, sorted in just a couple minutes. I'm grateful for everything from the manual to good advice from other owners to my own patience and techniques that got me to a running bike in 2 months. So...I know I can do the WRR and its single piston! Maybe you set your cams in the wrong position, maybe even a tooth off? Or your clearances? The tensioner is spring loaded, no? My ZX12R is like that. It's only going to adjust until the chain tension matches or exceeds the spring force. Anyway, I hope you get it sorted, and I look forward to hearing about it. The bike's a good bike and deserves to be on the road again.
I dare you to try and do a valve check/shim check while the engine is still in the bike , let me know how long it took you to figure out how to get the valve cover out hahahah😂 and how easy it was to get back in with gasket maker on it as well lmfao 😂😂😂😂 ps its not easy, prob the hardest job ive done on the bike yet everything is so tight in these bikes. I owned one now for 22000km still going strong no wear to valves and shims what so ever, i ride mostly trail, next time iwill pull the engine for a valve check maybe because otherwise ts a headache to check shims and valves
The same exact thing happened to me - bought an '18 and didn't realize the PO un-peened the countershaft nut. Noticed it when I went to change out tires/sprockets/chain.
Love the bike!
thanks homie
What exhaust heat shields are you running there? The amount of coverage looks excellent.
I believe they are made by wolfman will have to double check later.
Lol I did the exact same thing with the brake lever. I just shoved that bolt back in lol
Great vid!
Hey Liam, I have the same issue with my countershaft. I'm debating whether to keep riding, or to replace the shaft. I lost about 30% of the useful shaft spline.
The way I look at it is if you have no support system i.e. no one to come get you when you night break down, do the repair.
I was actually able to torque the nut on the sprocket down so tight it didnt move. you could probably do the same, although youll probably have to cut it off when you do the swap, completely destroying the shafts spline.
I was probably at 70% spline death and it was still going. if the spline has nothing but little triangular slits for spline engagement, thats pretty worn. if theres still a flat section at the top of the spline teeth, Id keep riding.
@@DeltaOps3 70% spline death! I like the gnarly way that sounds. Yeah, I'm capable of doing the repair, but I'm not yet convinced it's necessary. What gives me pause is passing the bike along to the next person with this problem uncorrected.
@@WReckeR306 same. Thing is too I didnt want it on my consciousness that I would eventually have to pass on the bike to get my money back out of it, since I really liked the bike it was better for me to just fix it and keep it. I have all the footage of the repair done, I just havent edited it yet. There was a big problem that kept me from finishing, the bike sputtered and felt like was dragging, and the clutch and everything felt super weird.
What I think us the problem is the cam chain tensioner is upset being re used, it is putting too much tension on the chain and causing the motor to drag and be low on power. I ordered and installed a manual cam chain tensioner to try to fix the problem, but then I accidently broke an inlet off the gastank, and the bike has been sitting since. I ordered more parts.
I wanted to confirm the bike is running good before I upload the entire guide. Im sure I did everything correctly but I want to make sure.
@@DeltaOps3 I see. I rebuilt the engine of my ZX12R street bike in 2018, after dropping a valve. It was my first time, although I'd done valve clearances before (maybe I did it wrong, and caused that failure!! ha, to even think of it, smh...). The only problems on startup were a loose fuel hose clamp and coolant hose clamp, sorted in just a couple minutes. I'm grateful for everything from the manual to good advice from other owners to my own patience and techniques that got me to a running bike in 2 months. So...I know I can do the WRR and its single piston! Maybe you set your cams in the wrong position, maybe even a tooth off? Or your clearances? The tensioner is spring loaded, no? My ZX12R is like that. It's only going to adjust until the chain tension matches or exceeds the spring force. Anyway, I hope you get it sorted, and I look forward to hearing about it. The bike's a good bike and deserves to be on the road again.
I dare you to try and do a valve check/shim check while the engine is still in the bike , let me know how long it took you to figure out how to get the valve cover out hahahah😂 and how easy it was to get back in with gasket maker on it as well lmfao 😂😂😂😂 ps its not easy, prob the hardest job ive done on the bike yet everything is so tight in these bikes. I owned one now for 22000km still going strong no wear to valves and shims what so ever, i ride mostly trail, next time iwill pull the engine for a valve check maybe because otherwise ts a headache to check shims and valves
I checked the chims like 2949 times unfortunately :C