Hi, thanks for this informative video. Are you working from memory or do you have it written down somewhere? Can you share the source for all this info? It'd be much easier to just follow a list instead of playing and pausing a video while working on my bike.
Awesome thanks for the video. I was worried the rad fan wasn't working but it was fine 👌. The bike was totaled and some electrical was shattered. I haven't heard the fan come on for a while and I was getting worried so thanks for helping me get back on the road.
Thanks for the great video. I’ve just run through all the diagnostics steps as per your instruction. All is good except that I couldn’t hear relay sound on 36, 48, 50 diagnostic codes. But at the same time engine trouble warning light illuminated. Is it something which I should worry about?
I'm getting a check engine light but no code. I'm not getting a clicking sound when I check d50 although I am getting the light on the dash. Can anyone out there tell me where exactly the relay is that is supposed to click for d50. The video says it's in a cluster of wires near the battery but with it not working I can't figure out where it is exactly
Cool, Thanks so much When i go in elevation off road, my check engine light will come on , then disappear Doing the Diagnostic you mention at 61 I get a code 19,30,42 at 62 I get a code 3 Any idea what these are? Thanks
Sorry I haven't got around to it. 12 = Crankshaft position sensor 30 = Lean angle sensor 46 = Vehicle system power supply 70 = Left idle control Good luck. You can pretty much dismiss #30. It just means you dropped your bike and the engine shut off. #46 is either a bad battery, stator, or you have voltage drain somewhere in your electrical system.
@@MotoBeto82 what about the crank position sensor? My bike lost power one night driving downtown. I didnt even make it home. Now when I give it throttle it gets stuck in higher rpms. Twist it again it goes back down or gets higher sometimes. You have to twist throttle backwards forcing it making it rev down.
Forgot to mention that #70 is nothing to worry about either. Just means your bike automatically shut off after 20 minutes of idling. I would check my throttle tube, casing, cable, throttle body first. Make sure nothing is getting stuck. As far as the crank position sensor, either the sensor is just bad or there is something going on with the crankshaft. Does your bike run poorly? Bad gas mileage now? Below are some possible malfunction causes listed in the service manual. -Open or short circuit in wire harness. -Defective crankshaft position sensor. -Malfunction in pickup rotor. -Malfunction in ECU. -Improperly installed sensor.
@@MotoBeto82 I dont ride it at all. It's a 2011 model with only 1650 miles on. Just sat for a while. There was a recall for the stator I've got to get it replaced. The oil level is high but drain plug is stripped out. When I noticed it was when bike started acting up. So I just got it home and havent figured it out yet. On the way home it slowly lost power and eventually it wouldnt stay cranked. Then had to tow it. Might be stator but it has a new battery. I'm thinking throttle sensor or throttle cables could be bad. It started having problems when I did a take off hit 3rd gear and bike just lost power only had half power. I just got bike a few weeks ago.
@@MotoBeto82 I'm thinking when I gunned it the throttle cables came apart some and got stuck and at same time stator could have killed battery already. I rode it a couple of times. I just hope the oil level didnt screw anything up
Hi, thanks for the video, it's VERY interesting to me, 'cos I've just bought a second hand WR250X... I've got a question: do you know whether this bike has main keys with transponders or not? I mean, do it has the immobilizier? I ask this 'cos the seller gave me the two keys without any plastic on the top of the key, so for sure there's no electronic inside of the key... Thanks
I bought mine second had as well. One key had the plastic on it then the other was all metal. My guess is that the previous owner of yours lost the one with the plastic and had a copy made. To my knowledge the key with the plastic does not have a chip in it.
Great thorough video ... learned a lot. My rad fan and headlight relays are not working during the diagnostic tests. Headlight seems to work with bike running, not sure if fan does. Getting 17 and 30 code also. Have same exhaust set up as you, same fuel programmer. Bike has engine light on but seems to be running well. Maybe fuse causing issue? Would you know if on same circuit with fuse or separate.? Suggestions?
Glad you got something from the video. That's why I started making them. I learned a lot from others as well. Yes, the fuse is definitely on the same circuit as the headlight relay. I looked it up on the service manual. If the fuse was out I would think that your headlight would not function. It could be that your diagnostic mode (DI52) itself is not working. Check in the diagnostic mode DI60, that is your EEPROM fault code display. If the testing process for your headlight relay is not working right you will see the number 52. I would think that if there was an issue with your lighting system, the headlight would not turn on at all. Same thing with your radiator fan. If there is an issue with the testing process (DI51) you should see a 51 code when you go to the DI60 in diagnostic mode. If your fan is not turning on while you are riding, I would think that your temperature light would turn on after a while. If it gets hot enough your bike will possibly even just turn off. Code 30 is just your lean angle sensor. If you have dropped your bike and it has turned off, it's going to register code 30. I would erase the code history and check if it still comes back. Most likely it won't until you drop your bike again. If it does and you didn't drop your bike, it could be an issue with the lean angle sensor itself. Code 17 is the EXUP servo motor circuit. Did you remove the motor and the valve? If so, did you install an EXUP Servo Emulator? If you did all that and are still getting code 17 I would guess that maybe your exup servo emulator went out. If you removed the servo motor and valve but didn't install an emulator, that could be it also. It's had to say what exactly it could be. Your bike might have some electrical gremlins as well. My advice would be to get yourself the service manual for the bike if you haven't already, and look up the fault codes on there. You will find what components and probable causes could be the issue. As well as what you should check and whatnot. You will also find wiring diagrams for each system, which comes in helpful if you are having electrical issues.
Good question. I guess you can take it apart and look to see if there are any shorts on the circuit board or if there are any melted components. Also, look for corroded parts. Without the equipment to really check it, it will be hard to do. The ECU controls so many things that depending on what part of the ECU was damaged would depend on what the symptoms will be. The check engine light would be on. If it is completely fried, obviously the bike will not run. The bike would run rough. Gas mileage would be off, ext, ext. You can start with a voltmeter and check to see if the resistance is within spec. Sorry, I know it's kind of broad but I honestly do not know how to diagnose that problem.
well the way you test the ECU, lets say your code is #13, which is the intake pressure sensor error (which is what I have right now), there is 3 issue with that intake pressure sensor, first one is the sensor is dead, second one is that there is a short in the wire, and if everything else is fine (for the 2 issue) then you can assume it's the ECU. so you do step elimination until the only thing left is the ecu.
No problem glad you got something out of it. I didn't catch the question, but if your fan isn't turning on, that's not good. You're bike will probably over heat.
Hello Markus, if the fan is not turning on, the problem may be from 3 different parts. You should check theese 3 and you'll be ok. All of the parts below are relatively cheap to replace. 1- Fan motor failed. 2- Coolant temperature sensor failed so the bike does not know when to activate the fan. 3- Thermostat failed and stuck on closed position so hot coolant can not enter the radiator. -----If you download the WR250R Service Manual PDF, you can find where theese parts are located on your bike. Cheers
Hi, thanks for this instructive video.hope you can get a issue from you my WR 250 front signal is lighting Fixe there no default light flashing even disconnect the signal relay its still lighting Fixe.
Sorry just saw this. I'm in Texas so mine didn't come with an O2 sensor. At least not to my knowledge. I replaced the whole OEM exhaust and I don't remember having to deal with an O2 sensor. I know some states like California might have different requirements and Euro models as well. If yours has an O2 sensor, I would look for the Euro model service manual and maybe there will be more information on that. I looked through my service manual and I wasn't able to find anything on the O2 sensor.
Great video but you got to work on your audio bro. Couldn’t hear some things and pulled my headphones out when music came on. Otherwise it was very helpful
Obviously all those sensors aren't by the battery. The engine coolant isn't back there. So ther sensor wouldn't be there. You tear all the plastic off to point to one location. Nice.
haha literally no one knows where the air intake pressure sensor is located on one of these..... not even yamaha has a pinpointed location in the owner's manual or a OEM parts diagram. The greatest mystery.....its hidden somewhere amongst everyone's lost 10mm sockets i'm guessing.....hahaha Or in all seriousness.....it is actually located underneath a bar of metal on the top of the subframe towards the gas tank on the left side and is an absolute pain in the ass to get to.......
I’ve never had had to dig for it myself, but yeah I was just going off the service manual so I figured it was a reliable source. Good to know where it actually is, in case I ever need to access it. From the sounds of it let’s hope I never do.
I just checked the valve clearance in my wr250r , and had to take off almost everything on bike to even do the job lmfao , its no easy task thats for sure . Can barely fit a finger in anywhere, no joke ,tight for space and a pain to work on due to all the stuff yea gotta take off to access the things that need attention But i love this bike they are indestructible .
when you see Diag, instead of pressing reset and select 1, just press select 1, and you should see C0 (instead of diag) and I think from there you hold reset and select and then you will see C1, then you should see the rpm.
Hi, thanks for this informative video. Are you working from memory or do you have it written down somewhere? Can you share the source for all this info? It'd be much easier to just follow a list instead of playing and pausing a video while working on my bike.
Thanks for the timestamps in the description
Awesome thanks for the video. I was worried the rad fan wasn't working but it was fine 👌. The bike was totaled and some electrical was shattered. I haven't heard the fan come on for a while and I was getting worried so thanks for helping me get back on the road.
Thanks for the great video. I’ve just run through all the diagnostics steps as per your instruction. All is good except that I couldn’t hear relay sound on 36, 48, 50 diagnostic codes. But at the same time engine trouble warning light illuminated. Is it something which I should worry about?
Nah, you should be good.
I'm getting a check engine light but no code. I'm not getting a clicking sound when I check d50 although I am getting the light on the dash. Can anyone out there tell me where exactly the relay is that is supposed to click for d50. The video says it's in a cluster of wires near the battery but with it not working I can't figure out where it is exactly
Cool, Thanks so much
When i go in elevation off road, my check engine light will come on , then disappear
Doing the Diagnostic you mention
at 61 I get a code 19,30,42
at 62 I get a code 3
Any idea what these are?
Thanks
Thank you for the work on this. Let’s saved me a lot of time tonight.
Thanks for the reply, will be checking it out. Thanks again for advise.
Whats code 70
So where is the other video for the code history. My codes on D1:61. I have 4 showing. 12 - 30 - 46 and 70. Please help.
Sorry I haven't got around to it.
12 = Crankshaft position sensor
30 = Lean angle sensor
46 = Vehicle system power supply
70 = Left idle control
Good luck. You can pretty much dismiss #30. It just means you dropped your bike and the engine shut off. #46 is either a bad battery, stator, or you have voltage drain somewhere in your electrical system.
@@MotoBeto82 what about the crank position sensor? My bike lost power one night driving downtown. I didnt even make it home. Now when I give it throttle it gets stuck in higher rpms. Twist it again it goes back down or gets higher sometimes. You have to twist throttle backwards forcing it making it rev down.
Forgot to mention that #70 is nothing to worry about either. Just means your bike automatically shut off after 20 minutes of idling. I would check my throttle tube, casing, cable, throttle body first. Make sure nothing is getting stuck. As far as the crank position sensor, either the sensor is just bad or there is something going on with the crankshaft. Does your bike run poorly? Bad gas mileage now? Below are some possible malfunction causes listed in the service manual.
-Open or short circuit in wire harness.
-Defective crankshaft position sensor.
-Malfunction in pickup rotor.
-Malfunction in ECU.
-Improperly installed sensor.
@@MotoBeto82 I dont ride it at all. It's a 2011 model with only 1650 miles on. Just sat for a while. There was a recall for the stator I've got to get it replaced. The oil level is high but drain plug is stripped out. When I noticed it was when bike started acting up. So I just got it home and havent figured it out yet. On the way home it slowly lost power and eventually it wouldnt stay cranked. Then had to tow it. Might be stator but it has a new battery. I'm thinking throttle sensor or throttle cables could be bad. It started having problems when I did a take off hit 3rd gear and bike just lost power only had half power. I just got bike a few weeks ago.
@@MotoBeto82 I'm thinking when I gunned it the throttle cables came apart some and got stuck and at same time stator could have killed battery already. I rode it a couple of times. I just hope the oil level didnt screw anything up
Hi, thanks for the video, it's VERY interesting to me, 'cos I've just bought a second hand WR250X...
I've got a question: do you know whether this bike has main keys with transponders or not? I mean, do it has the immobilizier? I ask this 'cos the seller gave me the two keys without any plastic on the top of the key, so for sure there's no electronic inside of the key...
Thanks
I bought mine second had as well. One key had the plastic on it then the other was all metal. My guess is that the previous owner of yours lost the one with the plastic and had a copy made. To my knowledge the key with the plastic does not have a chip in it.
Hi, my bike won't start i see 12 when i turn the key and when i diagnose i see 20 and 21 off and 62 it's 1
Can u make a video on how to connect the clutch switch cable that lets u turn the bike on in 1st ? Mine popped out
Great thorough video ... learned a lot. My rad fan and headlight relays are not working during the diagnostic tests. Headlight seems to work with bike running, not sure if fan does. Getting 17 and 30 code also. Have same exhaust set up as you, same fuel programmer. Bike has engine light on but seems to be running well. Maybe fuse causing issue? Would you know if on same circuit with fuse or separate.? Suggestions?
Glad you got something from the video. That's why I started making them. I learned a lot from others as well. Yes, the fuse is definitely on the same circuit as the headlight relay. I looked it up on the service manual. If the fuse was out I would think that your headlight would not function. It could be that your diagnostic mode (DI52) itself is not working. Check in the diagnostic mode DI60, that is your EEPROM fault code display. If the testing process for your headlight relay is not working right you will see the number 52. I would think that if there was an issue with your lighting system, the headlight would not turn on at all. Same thing with your radiator fan. If there is an issue with the testing process (DI51) you should see a 51 code when you go to the DI60 in diagnostic mode. If your fan is not turning on while you are riding, I would think that your temperature light would turn on after a while. If it gets hot enough your bike will possibly even just turn off.
Code 30 is just your lean angle sensor. If you have dropped your bike and it has turned off, it's going to register code 30. I would erase the code history and check if it still comes back. Most likely it won't until you drop your bike again. If it does and you didn't drop your bike, it could be an issue with the lean angle sensor itself.
Code 17 is the EXUP servo motor circuit. Did you remove the motor and the valve? If so, did you install an EXUP Servo Emulator? If you did all that and are still getting code 17 I would guess that maybe your exup servo emulator went out. If you removed the servo motor and valve but didn't install an emulator, that could be it also. It's had to say what exactly it could be. Your bike might have some electrical gremlins as well. My advice would be to get yourself the service manual for the bike if you haven't already, and look up the fault codes on there. You will find what components and probable causes could be the issue. As well as what you should check and whatnot. You will also find wiring diagrams for each system, which comes in helpful if you are having electrical issues.
how you can check the ECU ? if they are bad or not ?
Good question. I guess you can take it apart and look to see if there are any shorts on the circuit board or if there are any melted components. Also, look for corroded parts. Without the equipment to really check it, it will be hard to do. The ECU controls so many things that depending on what part of the ECU was damaged would depend on what the symptoms will be. The check engine light would be on. If it is completely fried, obviously the bike will not run. The bike would run rough. Gas mileage would be off, ext, ext. You can start with a voltmeter and check to see if the resistance is within spec. Sorry, I know it's kind of broad but I honestly do not know how to diagnose that problem.
well the way you test the ECU, lets say your code is #13, which is the intake pressure sensor error (which is what I have right now), there is 3 issue with that intake pressure sensor, first one is the sensor is dead, second one is that there is a short in the wire, and if everything else is fine (for the 2 issue) then you can assume it's the ECU. so you do step elimination until the only thing left is the ecu.
Thank you very much for your video it is interesting I have 1 question my motorcycle does not turn on the fan and it is warming up
No problem glad you got something out of it. I didn't catch the question, but if your fan isn't turning on, that's not good. You're bike will probably over heat.
Hello Markus, if the fan is not turning on, the problem may be from 3 different parts. You should check theese 3 and you'll be ok.
All of the parts below are relatively cheap to replace.
1- Fan motor failed.
2- Coolant temperature sensor failed so the bike does not know when to activate the fan.
3- Thermostat failed and stuck on closed position so hot coolant can not enter the radiator.
-----If you download the WR250R Service Manual PDF, you can find where theese parts are located on your bike.
Cheers
Hi, thanks for this instructive video.hope you can get a issue from you my WR 250 front signal is lighting Fixe there no default light flashing even disconnect the signal relay its still lighting Fixe.
Sorry just saw this. I'm not sue if you found a solution for your issue, but I'm not sure I'm understanding what is happening with your bike.
I didn't even know my wr had that.
#30 ignition coil ,does it make any noise when checking it? or does light just blink?
Just the blinking light. Sorry, I don't think I specified on the video.
Useful! Thanks
Very good video! Thank you
Great video, well done!
Best video ever 👌
Amazing! Many thans
Thank you mate!
❤thank you .. More updates ??
Thank You My Lord!!!
Hey that's cool to know.
Awesome. Thx
thanks for this!
Does anyone know if this world on wr250f?
I don't believe so, but I could be wrong. The service manual said it was only for WR250R and WR250X.
Did you display the 02 sensor fault code. ?
Sorry just saw this. I'm in Texas so mine didn't come with an O2 sensor. At least not to my knowledge. I replaced the whole OEM exhaust and I don't remember having to deal with an O2 sensor. I know some states like California might have different requirements and Euro models as well. If yours has an O2 sensor, I would look for the Euro model service manual and maybe there will be more information on that. I looked through my service manual and I wasn't able to find anything on the O2 sensor.
I was hoping there is a test for the water pump
Great video but you got to work on your audio bro. Couldn’t hear some things and pulled my headphones out when music came on. Otherwise it was very helpful
Obviously all those sensors aren't by the battery. The engine coolant isn't back there. So ther sensor wouldn't be there. You tear all the plastic off to point to one location. Nice.
haha literally no one knows where the air intake pressure sensor is located on one of these..... not even yamaha has a pinpointed location in the owner's manual or a OEM parts diagram.
The greatest mystery.....its hidden somewhere amongst everyone's lost 10mm sockets i'm guessing.....hahaha
Or in all seriousness.....it is actually located underneath a bar of metal on the top of the subframe towards the gas tank on the left side and is an absolute pain in the ass to get to.......
I’ve never had had to dig for it myself, but yeah I was just going off the service manual so I figured it was a reliable source. Good to know where it actually is, in case I ever need to access it. From the sounds of it let’s hope I never do.
I just checked the valve clearance in my wr250r , and had to take off almost everything on bike to even do the job lmfao , its no easy task thats for sure . Can barely fit a finger in anywhere, no joke ,tight for space and a pain to work on due to all the stuff yea gotta take off to access the things that need attention But i love this bike they are indestructible .
It's in there " , hahahaha I love it .
how do you check the rpm with the diagnostic mode ?
Not sure. I was only able to find something on it but it was for the wr250x.
when you see Diag, instead of pressing reset and select 1, just press select 1, and you should see C0 (instead of diag) and I think from there you hold reset and select and then you will see C1, then you should see the rpm.
th-cam.com/video/QKv4Lk-adKk/w-d-xo.html.
I have a 2020 wr250r. I had to jump the cable for the tach.
Great Job, Thanks!!!